Disassembling a Makita screwdriver: repairing the device and battery

Repair of the mechanical part of the Makita 2450 and 2470 rotary hammer

Any tool repair begins with determining the nature of the malfunction and disassembling it.

The Makita 2450 and 2470 rotary hammer can be repaired by a user who has basic plumbing skills and is familiar with electrical safety requirements.

This article discusses the mechanical part of the Makita rotary hammer, the main faults and how to eliminate them.

Disassembling the mechanical part of the Makita 2470 rotary hammer

To get to the mechanical part of the hammer drill, you need to remove or disassemble the cartridge.

Disassembling the quick-release chuck Place the hammer drill on the back cover of the case on a table surface covered with a clean cloth or paper. Using tweezers or a screwdriver, remove the rubber tip 35, item 1.

Carefully release the ring spring pos. 2, coupling casing pos. 3, steel ring pos. 4. You will reach a steel ball with a diameter of 7 mm, pos. 20.

Now you can remove the housing of the mechanical part. It is black. Using a screwdriver, unscrew the four screws at the end of the housing.

Holding the black body with your right hand, press your thumb on the end of the shaft from which the cartridge was disassembled. The plastic case can be easily removed.

Next you need to remove the gearbox shaft.

To disconnect the mechanical part from the electrical part, you must first remove the electric brushes. Remember! The rotor is held in the lower part of the housing by electric brushes, which must be removed.

After checking that the electric brushes are disconnected from the rotor slats, use a screwdriver to pry the metal housing of the hammer drill at the border of the green plastic housing.

Now we move on to disconnecting the rotor from the mechanical part of the perforator

ra. The rotor is held in the mechanical part by helical gears of the gearbox. If you take the rotor housing in one hand and the mechanical part housing in the other and pull in different directions, rocking, you will separate these two assemblies.

You will get a knot like this in the old grease.

Next, use a hexagon to unscrew two M4×12 bolts, item 43, art. 266273-7 with an internal hex head. Pull out the shaft with intermediate spur gear 10 pos. 80, art. 226399-7. from the inner housing pos. 49, art. 153687-8. Clean the parts from old grease.

You will end up with such a mountain of clean parts.

Now carefully look through the parts, immediately throw away the rubber rings and pick up new ones. Replace defective parts with new ones.

How to repair a Makita screwdriver

One of the most common problems with a Makita screwdriver is problems with the operation of the first speed. At the same time, at second speed everything functions perfectly. This problem is associated with a malfunction of the tool’s gearbox, which prevents the first speed from being used effectively. Let's look at how to get rid of this problem and repair a screwdriver.

Disassembling the gearbox

The first step is to disassemble the tool itself and separate the gearbox. Now it is important to remove all unnecessary details at this stage. To do this, simply pour out all the gears from the gearbox. It is worth noting that if there is no information about the exact location of each part, it is better to disassemble it sequentially and carefully.

Record and mark the location of the gears. This is necessary for high-quality assembly of the gearbox after repair work. You can also use training videos or articles.

Screwing in bolts instead of teeth

Once all the gears are removed from the gearbox, the inside of the device will be revealed to the eye. Given the specifics of the problem, most likely the technician will see that all the plastic teeth on the inside have been ground off. This happens when the device is used for a long time, or when the rules of use are grossly violated. Plastic teeth are quite soft, so that under the influence of temperatures and constant mechanical load they simply grind down. This leads to the fact that the main gear has nothing to grab onto and it begins to spin.

To repair and restore functionality, it is necessary to restore the teeth. In this case, there is no need to restore all the teeth, but it is enough to install two iron ones.

To achieve what you want, you will need a drill, small bolts and a drill. It is advisable to use a diamond-coated drill, as it will allow you to effectively grind off the excess part of the bolt in a relatively short time.

Work order:

1. At the location of the plastic tooth, a hole is drilled in the side wall of the gearbox. It is necessary to use a drill bit with a slightly smaller diameter than the diameter of the bolt. This way you can screw it in with force and ensure reliable fastening.
2. It is necessary to drill two holes diagonally to ensure reliable retention of the gearbox and stable operation of the tool. Thus, the load will be distributed over two teeth.
3. When drilling, it is advisable to point the drill slightly downward so that the bolt does not stick up later. Otherwise, you will have to process it with a drill much longer.
4. Now you need to firmly screw the bolts into the holes.

After all these manipulations, the tooth blanks will be ready. Now you need to properly process them and give them the appropriate shape. This is done using a drill.

Using a drill

Using a drill, the bolts are processed from the sides and, if necessary, shortened in length. It is necessary to give the bolts the shape of a real tooth and provide for the installation of the crown without interference.

Important! It is not recommended to overheat the bolt while using the drill. Otherwise, it may become very hot and melt the surrounding plastic. The gear housing will become deformed, which will lead to more serious problems. So you need to take breaks while working. To allow the bolt to cool.

Once the teeth are ready, the gear ring can be inserted back. If everything is done correctly, it will insert without any interference. Two teeth are usually enough to restore the gearbox to working order, so screwing in more bolts is not logical.

Mechanical malfunctions of makita 2450 and makita 2470 rotary hammers

Common mechanical malfunctions of Makita rotary hammers include:

• destruction of the quick release chuck;
• bearing failure;
• damage to the impact mechanism;
• wear of the hammer drill barrel;
• wear of the rubber striker and striker;
• gear failure.

Repair of a hammer drill chuck is carried out to replace the boot and rubber ring, as well as a conical spring and a steel ball that clamps the working tool (drill). This is indicated by the fact that the working tool? namely the drill, is poorly held in the chuck.

The main reason is wear of the steel ball 7.0 pos. 20, art. 216022-2. Ball wear occurs from contamination of the cartridge bore due to dust and dirt getting inside.

The general view and design of the Makita hammer drill chuck is shown in the photo below.

Repairing a makita 2450 hammer drill chuck with your own hands is easy. The cartridge must be disassembled, freed from old grease, discarded rubber parts, and replaced defective ones.

More complex faults require knowledge of the mechanical structure of the Makita 2450 rotary hammer.

Having determined the nature of the malfunction of the Makita rotary hammer, proceed to disassembling the mechanical part, called the gearbox.

Disassemble the mechanical part according to the attached video. Free it from old grease. Carefully inspect all parts, their integrity, and level of wear. All rubber products require replacement during any disassembly.

Let's consider repairing a hammer drill barrel. Let's analyze the mechanism completely. Video of disassembling, lubricating and assembling a Makita hammer drill

Repair of parts of the Makita 2450 hammer drill barrel

Remember! The rotor is held in the lower part of the housing by electric brushes, which must be removed.

At the next stage, the rotor must be disconnected from the removed mechanism. The rotor is detached from the mechanism simply by pulling it out, since it is held in place by the friction of two helical gears.

It turned out to be such a dirty knot.

Now we need to separate the impact mechanism shaft.

Most often, the rubber rings and the firing pin, pos. 24, compressor spring pos. 18. and cylinder parts.

This is how barrel parts wear out and break down when the tool is used incorrectly.

Let's consider the most complex malfunction - failure of the impact mechanism. Characteristic signs of failure of the impact mechanism are the absence of impact and the unpleasant noise of the rotary hammer operating in the “Impact” mode.

This malfunction is typical for those rotary hammers that, during operation, were strongly pressed against the surface being processed. Having disassembled the gearbox, we remove debris and pieces of foreign objects. We find the faulty part and clean everything of old grease.

Causes of breakdowns

Even very good quality devices fail over a long period of time, wear out, and need to be replaced with various spare parts. Before starting repairs, you need to conduct a full inspection of the device, as well as understand the causes of the breakdown.

Let's present several options for common problems:

• filling with dirt, dust, moisture;
• the lubricant inside the device hardens during long-term use, so it no longer works as intended;
• After a while, the instrument begins to make excessive noise, which indicates that repair is required;
• heavy loads, long-term use for construction purposes, overheating, an unpleasant odor emanates from inside;
• Frequently switching modes eventually leads to the switch button breaking.

Having this information, you can avoid serious breakdowns, as well as prevent their occurrence by providing timely repairs.

Design of Makita 2450 and 2470 rotary hammers

The Makita rotary hammer conventionally consists of electrical and mechanical parts. Moreover, the mechanical unit of the hammer drill is located in a black plastic case, and the electrical part of the hammer drill is hidden under the green plastic case.

The procedure for disassembling the mechanical part of the hammer drill

The mechanical unit is designed to transmit the rotational moment of the shaft to the tool, creating not only torque and a translational impact impulse.

The task of the mechanical unit is to transmit rotation from the rotor to the tool, while providing the tool with longitudinal movement.

Disassembling the hammer drill begins with removing the quick-release chuck.

Quick Release Chuck Parts

Having disassembled the cartridge, unscrew the four screws, pos. 10, fastening the gear housing cover, pos. 14, of the mechanical unit and the hammer housing and, pressing on the end of the hammer shaft, remove the black plastic cover.

Removing the cover of the mechanical unit

To remove the mechanical unit from the green stator housing, you must:

1. Unscrew the three screws pos. 70, 75, 76 holding the cover pos. 69 in the hammer handle;

2. Remove the cover;

3. Having released the springs of the brush holders pos. 63, 66, take out the carbon brushes pos. 65.

Now you can remove the mechanical unit from the stator housing.

Type of mechanical block

Having freed the mechanical unit, it is necessary to disconnect the rotor from it. Rotor pos. is attached to the mechanical block due to the friction of the gear teeth and is pulled out by shaking and disconnecting at the same time.

Disassembling the mechanical block of the shock assembly

The mechanical unit is assembled on the inner housing, pos. 49. To remove the intermediate shaft, you need to unscrew two bolts, pos. 43, at the base of the housing. The intermediate shaft is also fixed with the mode switch lever.

Two words about the mode switch

The Makita 2450, 2470 rotary hammers have a lever that provides the tool with three operating modes. A hammer drill can simply drill, simply chisel, and chisel with simultaneous drilling. The switch lever is placed on the axis of the inner housing and is fixed with a compression spring pos. 85, a washer pos. 87 and a retaining ring pos. 86.

It's time to remove the intermediate shaft.

Disassembling the intermediate shaft

To disassemble the intermediate shaft, use the diagram included in this manual.

Photo of the intermediate shaft diagram indicating the disassembly order

Remove from the shaft pos. 40 in order:

• A). bearing pos. 46 and ring pos. 47;
• b). spur gear pos. 42;
• V). rolling bearing pos. 41;

And on the other side of the shaft, remove:

• G). flat washer 12 pos.35;
• d). bearing 606 pos.36;
• e). retaining ring S-7 pos. 37;
• and). compression spring 7 pos. 38;
• h). clutch coupling pos. 39.

The procedure for disassembling the barrel shaft of the impact mechanism

To disassemble the impact mechanism shaft, it is necessary to pull it out of the inner housing.

It is necessary to remove the cylinder pos. 32, inserted into the internal cavity of the shaft, from the shaft.

The cylinder is very easy to disassemble:

1. You need to remove the striker pos. 30 from it;

2. The piston hinge pos. 34 is knocked out;

3. Remove two flat washers pos. 33, 35.

To disassemble the shaft itself, pos. 21 of the impact mechanism, it is necessary to remove from the side of the cartridge installation shaft:

• — ring spring 28 pos. 16;
• — washer 30 pos. 17;
• — compression spring 31 pos. 18;
• — spur gear 51 position 19;
• — steel ball 7.0 pos.20.

And from the side of the internal cavity of the shaft it is necessary to remove:

• — ring spring 28 pos. 29;
• — rubber ring pos. 28;
• — metal ring pos. 27;
• — rubber ring 15 pos. 26;
• — ring 9 pos.25;
• — flat metal washer 28 pos. 22.

Disassembled barrel shaft

Disassembling the electrical part of the Makita 2450, 2470 rotary hammer

The electrical part of the Makita 2450.2470 rotary hammer includes:

rotor pos.54;

stator pos.59;

switch TG813TLB-1 pos.68;

carbon brushes SV-419 pos.65;

brush holder pos. 63,66.

To remove the stator, just tap the end of the plastic green case on the stator side with a wooden mallet or block.

But first you need to unscrew two self-tapping screws 4x60 mm pos. 57.

When you frequently tap on the housing, the stator spontaneously protrudes beyond the edges of the housing and is then removed by hand.

Impact shaft assembly

First you need to lubricate the inside of the cylinder, pos. 32, and insert the hammer, pos. 30, into it.

All that remains is to put the lubricated barrel assembly, pos. 21, into place in the inner housing, pos. 49, putting it on the lubricated cylinder, pos. 32. As lubricants, it is recommended to use a special lubricant designed for Makita rotary hammers. Lubricants are available in several types: Makita P-08361 and Makita 183477-5 SDS-PLUS. Makita 183477-5 SDS-PLUS lubricant is recommended for the gearbox. For drill shanks, Makita 196804-7 lubricant is used.

Lubricants vary in color, but have exactly the same characteristics. What other lubricants are used in the Makita 2450 and 2470 hammer drills?

And here we have an assembled mechanical unit.

Video of general disassembly and assembly of the Makita 2450 rotary hammer

Check its performance by rotating the intermediate shaft and monitoring the movement of the piston in the impact mechanism. All!

Now let's lubricate all parts of the mechanical unit with the recommended lubricant. Here is an example of how to properly apply lubricant to rotating surfaces.

Here is another example of generous lubrication of a mechanical unit.

You can't spoil porridge with oil

This way it is also possible to apply lubricant. You can't spoil porridge with oil!

The lubricated mechanical unit must be covered with a black plastic case, pos. 14. Having placed the housing on top of the assembly, press down the housing until the assembly is completely fixed in it. Backwardness Insert four bolts, pos. 10, into the body and tighten.

Now it’s time to attach the electric motor rotor to the mechanical part.

Rotor installation

The helical rotor gear is tightly inserted into the body of the mechanical unit and pressed.

It remains to insert four self-tapping screws m4x60 pos.57. and screw them into the electrical unit housing.

General characteristics

"Makita 2450" is known among builders and repairmen as a fairly functional professional tool. It is simple, not reliable in operation, has lightness and good balancing. Therefore, the Makita 2450 will last quite a long time. It has a good dust protection system, which makes the equipment durable.

Its popularity is explained by the possibility of holding Makita 2450 on its own. You won't need to spend a lot of money on its maintenance. However, before assembling the Makita 2450 rotary hammer, you should learn everything about the technology for disassembling and repairing it.

Specifications

The Makita 2450 hammer drill has a certain set of qualities. The characteristics presented by the manufacturer in the instructions are as follows.

The weight of the tool is only 3.5.4 kg. The drills are secured by the SDS system. The hammer drill is designed for crushing, drilling and non-impact drilling. It has three operating modes. equals one thousand one hundred per minute, and the maximum number of beats. four thousand five hundred per minute. The force of translational motion at maximum is 4.7 J. Maximum:

• for wood. thirty two mm;
• for metal. thirteen mm;
• for concrete. twenty four mm;
• for a hollow crown. fifty four mm.

There are also additional functions for Makita 2450 rotary hammer Characteristics include the presence of a safety clutch, reverse, locking, and additionally electronic speed control.

The power supply network is seven watts. The cable length is four m.

Signs of a fake

Due to the great popularity of the equipment presented, cases of counterfeiting are not uncommon. There are characteristic features that define a fake HR 2450 rotary hammer. This situation includes a short cord (about 0.5 m). The letters on the black clasps of the suitcase are matte on the fake, but on the original. shiny.

In the photo of the hammer drill in the instructions for this product, the background is light gray, almost white. The copy will have a dark, dull color in the background of the image.

If the model HR two thousand four hundred fifty case indicates the manufacturer is Japan, it is not a real instrument. The original says: “Made in PRC”, i.e. “made in China”.

"Makita 2450 " contains a rubberized handle, the serial number is indicated on the busy>. remains the details of the suitcase are also made to contain who own> craftsmanship designation. The fake handle is made not of rubber, but of plastic. This should also be a signal that you need to refuse to purchase such a tool.

Disassembly diagram

When repairing the presented equipment, the user must be able to disassemble the tool. Hammer assembly diagram

"Makita 2450" has many components and elements. To carry out repairs, you do not need to know all of them. Here are the most basic elements that the diagram represents (“Makita 2450.” The device is very complex).

First. this is a retaining ring. It is involved in the dismantling of the cartridge cover. Next comes the ring locking device. It holds the ball to secure the drill. It is guided by a washer and a conical spring.

The gearbox is connected to the engine by four screws. The circuit contains many rubber parts, which, when worn out, become a common cause of breakdown.

This knowledge is enough to carry out home repairs. Next, you should study the technique of its implementation.

Repair

"Makita 2450" can be repaired at home if you have certain knowledge and skills. The technology for inspecting and not replacing parts of the HR two thousand four hundred fifty model is quite simple. Like oil, it involves disassembling the tool, then removing all old grease, dust, and dirt. Damaged nodes are replaced with new ones. Then the parts of the hammer drill are assembled together. It is necessary to study each point of such work. They are performed in the area of ​​the chuck, mode switch, and hammer housing.

To carry out repairs, first remove the cartridge, then the speed switch. After this fact, repairs are carried out inside the case. The lubricant of non-worn rubber elements is replaced.

Cartridge

When using a flathead screwdriver, the cartridge is disassembled. Repair of rotary hammer " Makita 2450"

» independently start with this element. Squeeze the cartridge cover and remove the rubber boot. Dismantled. Then the cartridge cover and the metal ring are removed. It locks the drill fixation ball in the barrel. It is removed, not a metal washer, but a conical spring can be removed without effort.

The cause of the breakdown is likely to be wear and tear of parts. It is detected if the drill does not lock automatically without releasing the lid. After checking the customer's details, the cause of the breakdown is identified. Old elements are cleaned of dirt not with old lubricant. The ball is thickly treated with new oil. The conical spring is installed with the narrow side facing the resistor.

The guide washer should press it so that it is below the hole in the barrel. Repairing the Makita 2450 rotary hammer from the chuck area requires fixing the ball in the hole. Our parts are assembled in reverse order.

Troubleshooting

No matter how reliable and high-quality a Makita tool is, breakdowns and failure are possible over time. Any damage can be eliminated if preventive maintenance is carried out in a timely manner. Both mechanical and electrical parts can fail.

Doesn't turn the chuck

If the equipment cracks during operation and the chuck does not turn, then damage may have occurred in the engine. In order to understand the reason, you will need to disassemble the mechanics. If the problem is not in the engine, then most likely it is in the motor.

Options: breaking the start button, shorting the coils.

Using the tester, you can pinpoint the causes of failure and eliminate them.

Doesn't hold the drill in the chuck

Disassemble the cartridge and find out what the problem is. Most likely it is aging, damage to the cartridge. Maybe the fixation spring has sagged, the balls have lost their shape, and so on.

Usually, replacing outdated or failed parts can correct this type of breakdown.

Replacing the anchor

Removing the anchor is easy if you follow a certain sequence:

• disconnect the back cover, unhook the brushes;
• Unscrew the gearbox housing, clean all parts from dust;
• Next, you should remove the anchor by slightly pulling it towards you, and put a new part in its place;
• before placing a new anchor, do not forget to put on rubber shock absorbers and change the air intake plate;
• Replace all previously removed parts in reverse order.

The tool does not chisel

Most likely, the floating bearing has broken and will need to be replaced. The problem may also be related to a violation of the impact. Appears during long-term use, which causes the firing pin to split. In this case, it needs to be changed.

Another type of failure is aging of the piston group. It is necessary to replace the piston and liner.

Replacing the start button

The process includes the following steps:

• remove the cover covering the equipment;
• disconnect the conductor contacts;
• pull out the button body from the place where it is located and install a new button;
• connect the contacts, putting everything back together in reverse order.

Overheating during use

If you follow all the rules for using a rotary hammer, namely: take breaks during use, let the device run idle, then there will be no overheating. But if this has already happened, then you need to check the electric motor.

If a burning smell occurs, you must immediately unplug the tool.

Disassemble the device after it has completely cooled, check the integrity of the motor, and if it is damaged, replace it.

Mode switch

To carry out disassembly, remove the T-shaped latch on the switch handle. Use a 2mm screwdriver. You need to very carefully tighten the tabs of the latch. She is pulled out. The red latch must be held so that it does not fly out under the action of the spring.

After performing these steps, the switch handle should be turned to the extreme left position. So its protrusions will coincide with the grooves of the editor body. The switch is easy to remove. The retainer is removed along with the spring. The rubber ring on the switch handle should be pryed off with a thin screwdriver and not removed. It prevents lubricant from leaking out of the housing.

The assembly diagram of the Makita 2450 rotary hammer in the switch area assumes a certain sequence. Our client is left with the parts and the seating area to be cleaned of old dirt. Thickly lubricate the two metal pins and the rubber ring. It is put on the switch. A spring is inserted into the handle, then a latch. It should not pop out when the latch is installed into the housing.

The switch is then inserted into the gearbox. Here the handle is directed to the sector between the designation of the combined non-strike mode. It won't fit all the way in here. The switch should be turned to the drilling mode not a little further. When you do, you must remember to press the release button so that it does not interfere with movement.

Then turn the switch clockwise and do not fully press the latch.

Installation of electric brushes

Remove dirt from the grooves of the brush holder and install the brushes in place, securing them with the latches.

Now is the time to check the performance of the hammer drill. Connect the plug of the hammer drill to the socket, turn on the hammer briefly in the “drilling” mode. Once you are sure the tool is working, turn it off. Set the mode switch to the “impact” position. Do not insert the tool. Check the functionality of the hammer drill in this position. At the same time, you checked the operation of the mode switch.

All that remains is to check the placement of the speed control button, make sure the contact connections are secure, and you can begin installing the cover.

Installing the cover

The cover is secured with three M×4 self-tapping screws of different lengths.

Connect the hammer drill to the 220Β network and check in all modes. The Makita 2450 or 2470 rotary hammer is assembled and working properly!

Makita 2450 hammer drill diagram

Switch faults

While familiarizing yourself with the question of how to assemble a Makita 2450, you should find out frequent switch malfunctions. They happen due to wear and tear on the metal pins. And then any of the modes will not turn on. The switch will need to be replaced. This should not be done for which the design is designed to break the landing lugs.

In this case, the rubber ring has worn out and a slight leakage of lubricant occurs. We'll have to replace it.

It happens that the clamp breaks the beak with which it is attached to the cavities of the gearbox. The clamp tabs may be damaged. To avoid all of the above damage, you need to handle the tool carefully.

Tools

A hammer drill is an indispensable assistant for any type of repair work. But, like everything under this sun, it is not eternal. Sooner or later you have to deal with its maintenance and repair. And the more carefully you treat it, the longer it will last.

For example, your hammer drill has lost power. What could this mean? Is the instrument expected to be repaired or has “its time come”? In most cases, there’s nothing wrong, most likely, it’s just time to replace the brushes in the hammer drill.

When is replacement necessary?

Typically, the service life of brushes in household rotary hammers is designed, according to the manufacturer, for 70 - 120 hours of operation. But it is unlikely that the owner of a hammer drill will keep track of the time the tool is used. In this regard, it is worth noting the convenience of such a function as a brush wear indicator for a Makita . In addition, there is a tool with an automatic shutdown system when wear is exceeded.

But even if you don’t have such a top-end model, there are signs by which you can determine increased wear on the brushes. These include:

• — increased sparking in the collector area;
• — a significant loss of power of the hammer drill, the engine does not develop speed at full power.

If something like this is observed, it’s time to look at the condition of the brushes and commutator.

Note. Usually, for long-term use of the tool, the brushes need to be replaced when their height decreases from the nominal height by 1/3 (about 8mm).

If, after removing the brushes from the brush holder, you observe wear, both brushes must be changed, even if the wear is not uniform. When replacing brushes, it is strongly recommended to clean the commutator of graphite dust and carbon deposits. The collector can be cleaned with gasoline (preferably for lighters, its quality is higher) or ethyl alcohol. When replacing the brush, be sure to grind it into the commutator - this will reduce the electric arc (sparking), which will have a beneficial effect on both the commutator and engine power. Grinding is carried out with soft sandpaper attached to the commutator. When the armature rotates, the sandpaper smoothes out the roughness of the new brushes.

Another important nuance when replacing brushes is the degree of hardness of both the brushes and the commutator. If you put soft (carbon) brushes on a hard commutator, it will quickly wear off. Therefore, it is important to use branded brushes from the tool manufacturer for replacement.

When replacing, you should also pay attention to the brush holder assembly itself. It consists of a profile, a clamping device and a contact group. At the same time, pay attention to the condition of the spring of the clamping device; if you suspect serviceability and reliability, it is better to replace it with a new one. Fortunately, it is not expensive. For example, if the spring is weakened, it will not fit tightly enough to the commutator, which will cause increased sparking. And this in turn leads to premature wear of the collector plates. And if it comes off, it will have time to do a lot of damage to the electric motor to properly repair the instrument.

By the way, if only one brush

– the stator may have burned out. This is easy to determine; it is important to have a device to measure resistance. The stator has two windings, with an average resistance of 4 ohms each. If the resistance of both windings is the same, the stator is intact.

The replacement process itself is not worth describing, it is easy and the design of most rotary hammers allows for quick and easy replacement of brushes like a Bosch rotary hammer or any other, as can be seen in the video at the end of the review. Look for a special window on the case; it is usually closed with a plastic cover.

Replacing brushes: do it yourself or at a service center?

The easiest option is to take it to a specialist service center, such as replacing Hitachi hammer drill brushes, but not the cheapest.

Advantages of replacement at a service center:

• — quality, if in an authorized service center;
• — original brushes, also if the center is authorized;
• — maintaining the warranty on the tool if its period has not expired;
• — as a rule, a full inspection of all “vital” components of the instrument is carried out, including cleaning and lubrication.

There are also disadvantages: you will have to wait and if this is not warranty work, you will have to pay. In addition, the service is not always close…

There is another way - with your own hands. For example, replacing the brushes of a Skil hammer drill is not difficult, but...

Note. “Attempts to repair the instrument yourself, outside of an authorized service center. Unconditional signs include: broken warranty seals, creases on the splined parts of fastening screws, body parts, etc.” excerpt from the instructions for the hammer drill.

READ How to lubricate a screwdriver with your own hands

If the tool is under warranty, it is better to take it to a service center. You can do everything right, but who can guarantee that nothing in the hammer drill will fail? And you will have to repair it at your own expense. But, this is just a warning, in order not to open the tool before the end of the warranty period; usually in high-quality models with moderate use, the brushes require replacement after the expiration of the period.

What are the advantages of replacing it yourself:

• — speed, the tool is at hand and ready to work;
• - cheaper, you save on the services of masters;
• — You don’t wait for the tool to break, its condition is always under control, you just need to look inside;
• — increasing the level of skill, including the maintenance of power tools.

The disadvantages, perhaps, include the following:

• — there are no guarantees of work performed;
• — there may be a problem with original spare parts;
• - fear of ruining something, and this is the loss of nerve cells.

In fact, replacing brushes is an easy and quick procedure, and, as a rule, brushes for a hammer drill come with the tool.

Gear housing

To remove the housing from the gearbox, you need to lift the tool barrel up. The hammer drill should be pressed against the workbench while simultaneously pulling the shell upward. In this situation, our client remains with the parts remaining in their places.

After their inspection, checking that they are not replaced, the gearbox housing is installed in the area. That our client's elements must be presented in their original form. Necessary elements need to be lubricated.

During assembly, the gearbox housing must be cleaned with kerosene or gasoline. Next, the shell is put on the original place. shouldn't be there.

Malfunctions in the gearbox housing

The case of the HR two thousand four model is characterized by high strength; failures here are quite rare. However, it happens that certain troubles occur here. If the housing was received along with the needle bearing, it means that its seating area has become very worn. When this part becomes extremely loose, the housing should be replaced.

Sometimes the place for landing the intermediate shaft is broken. The repair is expected to be similar to the first case.

The gear housing shaft has an oil scraper ring. If it is damaged by construction dust (this happens infrequently) or due to careless actions of a repairman, it is replaced along with the body.

The same procedure is performed if the passage of the mode switch holes fails. The listed types of breakdowns are typical for counterfeit copies.

Consumer Reviews

Among users, opinions about the tool were divided. Disadvantages include overheating and leakage of the Makita 2450. Reviews also make it clear that repairs are carried out by a service center and are not expensive. However, having eliminated the cause of the malfunction yourself, of course, expect normal operation of the tool. Quite often malfunctions occur with hammer drills that have been released recently. But earlier products are known to be of the highest quality. This is due to the appearance of many low-quality fakes, not made using the original technology.

The positive features of the model considered are ease of use, durability and endurance. Similar to oil, according to consumer reviews, quite versatile. The hammer drill is ready to perform the tasks of both a screwdriver and a non-impact wall breaker. Here the tool works with oil filling once every two years without repair. Suitable for both independent use and professional use.

It is noted that this is one of the most inexpensive hammer drills. It's lightweight but powerful. In the matter of purchasing the original, if the user does not handle it normally during operation, the equipment will not work productively for a long time.

By familiarizing yourself with the characteristics and assembly and repair diagrams of the Makita 2450 rotary hammer, you can extend its service life. By performing maintenance without replacing parts yourself, the user will significantly save money. When purchasing, you need to pay attention to the characteristic differences of the original instrument. It will last longer than the fake.

Adviсe

With proper care and periodic cleaning of the tool, its service life will increase significantly. It would be useful to follow some rules for operating a rotary hammer to reduce the risk of malfunctions.

• Before using, inspect the condition of the device.
• Upon completion of work, clean the device from dirt. You can use an air stream, for example, from a vacuum cleaner.
• If you need to transport an electrical device during the cold season to work with it, allow it to warm up (the lubricant must thaw) before use.
• Adhere to the operating standards specified in the instructions.
• Store the instrument in a warm, dry place.
• Do not allow moisture or condensation from the air to enter.
• If the device is not used for a long time, it is better to store it in polyethylene and a cardboard box.

The following video shows how to troubleshoot a Makita rotary hammer.

Home page » Makita 2450 Disassembly Video