Devices for manual engraving with gravers

Metal gravel for engraving

A graver is the main tool for metal engraving. The engraver holds in his hand a sharp and durable cutter equipped with a semicircular wooden or plastic handle for palm resting. The cutting edge can be of different shapes to perform different engraving operations. Many engravers are not content with store purchases, but make their own tools.

Making a gravel for engraving on metal

Making a serger of the simplest design is possible for a home craftsman with metalworking skills. To do this, take as a basis:

file or needle file;
spring leaf;
part of the bearing race.

The main thing is that the steel is high-strength and elastic. Strength is necessary for the graver to successfully cut the metal of the workpiece, not become dull for a long time and maintain the specified sharpening shape. Elasticity will allow the tool not to break under load.

A higher-quality cutter can be obtained by forging, but for this you must have good blacksmithing skills and have a forge. A file made from a needle file will be noticeably inferior to a forged one in both strength and flexibility.

Before you start sawing and forging metal, you should build a drawing of the tool. You will need not only a large-scale image of the cutter itself, but also a drawing of the handle.

How to forge a graver

Beginner engravers make do with purchased gravers or repurposed files. Mature craftsmen often feel the need for a reliable forged chisel.

Making a forged graver yourself requires intermediate level blacksmithing skills. Instructions on how to make a gravel using the hot forging method are given below.

Forging is divided into the following main stages:

forging workpieces;
hardening;
final processing and finishing.

During forging, it is necessary to constantly monitor the temperature of the part. It is determined by a pyrometer or the traditional method - by the color of the glow. At the beginning of the process, the part should be light yellow, in the last operations it should be light red.

A well-heated workpiece must be grabbed from the forge with pliers and placed on the anvil. Light, frequent blows knock off the scale. To obtain a rectangle, the cross-broaching technique is used. To form a triangular shape of a part, it is pulled longitudinally on the edge of the anvil, turning it at the required angle. A similar technique is used for broaching for a trapezoidal section shape.

In a more complex way, the blacksmith achieves a diamond-shaped section. First, the tip is pulled in one direction, then the product is turned over and pulled in the opposite direction. In this case, part of the part will have to be cut off.

The next operation is broaching the tail part of the cutter. it must be additionally calcined and stretched until a pyramidal tail is formed.

You can move on to the next stage - hardening. Hardening of carbon alloys is carried out in the following sequence:

heat the product to 805 ±15 °C;
quickly immerse in cold water;
check the degree of hardening with a file: if it slides over the metal without forming chips, then the required hardness has been achieved;
When chips form, quenching should be repeated.

And the final stage is machining. The grinder is given its final shape on the abrasive wheel. Here the blade is sharpened to the required sharpness. The final finishing is done on a fine-grained wheel.

Do-it-yourself metal graver for engraving

Making a gravel for engraving on metal

Making a serger of the simplest design is possible for a home craftsman with metalworking skills. To do this, take as a basis:

file or needle file;
spring leaf;
part of the bearing race.

Before you start sawing and forging metal, you should build a drawing of the tool. You will need not only a large-scale image of the cutter itself, but also a drawing of the handle.

How to forge a graver

Beginner engravers make do with purchased gravers or repurposed files. Mature craftsmen often feel the need for a reliable forged chisel.

Making a forged graver yourself requires intermediate level blacksmithing skills. Instructions on how to make a gravel using the hot forging method are given below.

Forging is divided into the following main stages:

forging workpieces;
hardening;
final processing and finishing.

The next operation is broaching the tail part of the cutter. it must be additionally calcined and stretched until a pyramidal tail is formed.

You can move on to the next stage - hardening. Hardening of carbon alloys is carried out in the following sequence:

heat the product to 805 ±15 °C;
quickly immerse in cold water;
check the degree of hardening with a file: if it slides over the metal without forming chips, then the required hardness has been achieved;
When chips form, quenching should be repeated.

Purpose of the graver

For engraving, the master needs a set of metal stamps of different shapes to engrave various elements of the image. The most common are:

Spitz is a wedge-shaped cutter with a slope of 30 to 40°, used to design the outline of an image and clear elements of great depth;
Messer - resembles a knife, the wedge slope is from 15 to 30°, it is used to make fine details;
flah - similar to a chisel blade 0.15-6 mm wide, used to select depressions in the design;
bol - a rounded point with a radius of 0.2-0.6 mm; with its help, semicircular depressions are selected, from which text elements of the design are formed;
hornbeam - diamond-shaped section, large elements on concave elements are chosen with it;
facet - a trapezoidal section with a blade sharpening angle from 50 to 115°, used for forming images of high complexity;
Shatir - the blade has a serrated shape with a distance between the teeth from 0.1 to 0.5 mm, it is used to obtain several parallel strokes.

Stichels for carving metal of other shapes are rarely used for restoration work and when making particularly complex images.

Engraving with a graver on metal surfaces

Copper and brass are more suitable for a novice craftsman.

More experienced engravers work on other non-ferrous metals and soft steel alloys, using specific engraving methods and improved tools.

All that is needed for engraving tools and equipment is a work table and a set of gravers. At the first stage of mastering hand engraving technology, it is recommended to achieve stable quality of straight and curved strokes. When they begin to turn out confidently, you can move on to more complex elements of the image.

Before starting to engrave the workpiece, the master traditionally checks the sharpness of the sharpening pen by running it along the tip of the nail. If the strip can be cut without effort or pressure, the sharpness is sufficient. The handle is clamped in the working hand, the thumb and index fingers cover the incisor 10-20 mm from the tip.

The blade is pressed against the surface of the workpiece at an angle of 35-45°, then the angle is sharply reduced to 5-10°, while a piece of metal is cut out of the workpiece and a stroke is formed. For beginners, it is not recommended to limit their length to 3-4 mm. As you gain experience, you will begin to get longer ones.

Types of gravers

In addition to traditional hand tools, mechanized cutters have recently become increasingly widespread. The shape of their blade is exactly the same as that of a manual blade, but the pressure on the cutter is carried out due to a mechanical drive. Depending on the type of drive, the following types of gravers are distinguished:

electric softener;
pneumatic squeegee.

You can buy an electromechanical serger, or you can make it yourself. This will require serious skills in electrical engineering and design.

The design and manufacturing technology of a pneumatic hammer for metal is much simpler. To assemble it, it is enough to grind (or select a suitable one) a cylinder and a piston, which, under the influence of compressed air supplied through the pipe, will hit the shank of the graver.

Purpose of the graver

For engraving, the master needs a set of metal stamps of different shapes to engrave various elements of the image. The most common are:

Spitz is a wedge-shaped cutter with a slope of 30 to 40°, used to design the outline of an image and clear elements of great depth;
Messer - resembles a knife, the wedge slope is from 15 to 30°, it is used to make fine details;
flah - similar to a chisel blade 0.15-6 mm wide, used to select depressions in the design;
bol - a rounded point with a radius of 0.2-0.6 mm; with its help, semicircular depressions are selected, from which text elements of the design are formed;
hornbeam - diamond-shaped section, large elements on concave elements are chosen with it;
facet - a trapezoidal section with a blade sharpening angle from 50 to 115°, used for forming images of high complexity;
Shatir - the blade has a serrated shape with a distance between the teeth from 0.1 to 0.5 mm, it is used to obtain several parallel strokes.

Stichels for carving metal of other shapes are rarely used for restoration work and when making particularly complex images.

Types of gravers used in engraving

Engraving

Engraving is one of the most ancient metal processing techniques. It is the extrusion of a relief image or ornament onto a metal surface.

In ancient times, they used exclusively hand engraving with gravers and other engraving tools, but scientific and technological progress literally “freed” the hands of craftsmen. Nowadays, rarely anyone carves by hand - mechanized engraving or laser engraving is used everywhere.

The work of an engraver is quite difficult and requires considerable skill. Even in order to put a straight line of the same thickness on metal, experience is needed, and only seasoned engravers can do broken or rounded lines.

First, the metal surface is prepared - it is painted with white watercolor paint and a drawing is applied with a pencil. After this, they take the gravel and begin to cut, varying the force of pressing the tool. If engraving on metal is done with a gloss finish, then a fassetenstihel is used, and if the engraving is done with a black or enamel finish, then with a regular stichel.

In jewelry, two-dimensional planar engraving is often used for appearance, which is performed at a jewelry and engraving workbench using a vice, fastening washers, and finishing material. Using this jewelry technique, you can apply monograms, patterns, reliefs, contours, ornaments, backgrounds, etc. Engraving is used in the design of ring overlays, signets, wedding rings, etc. An engraving workbench significantly expands the range of jewelry tasks and allows you to engrave on dishes, cigarette cases, watches, powder compacts and many other household items.

Engraver's Tool:

· -wooden hand vice for engraving rings

· - fastening washers for fastening flat and convex products such as earrings, brooches, pendants

· - tabletop wooden clamp for clamping plates, medals, rings, silverware into the engraving pad

· -ball wooden vice has greater mobility and can change the position of the engraved object in relation to the graver

· - fender or engraving pad - a leather bag filled with sand for quickly changing position relative to engraving devices

· -stihel or cutter - a well-sharpened mushroom-shaped engraving blade made of hardened tool steel. The graver has several varieties: grabstichel (for large concave surfaces), facettenstikhel (for precise lines and patterns).

Types of gravers used in engraving

Messerstichel - a chisel with a knife-shaped blade. Cutters of this type in cross section have the shape of an elongated acute triangle, like the blade of a regular knife. Hence the German name for this cutting tool. The word "messer" translated into Russian means "knife". With this cutter, thin, almost hairline, highly recessed lines are made on metal. To provide the necessary rigidity to the Messerstihel blade, its back must have a width of at least 2.5 mm. Spitzshtichel is a pointed chisel. "Spitz" means "sharp". In cross-section, the cutter has the shape of a pointed triangle, the two sides of which are arcs. Its back is flat, and its side edges are convex. This is a universal cutter used for a wide variety of engraving work: it is used to mark out a design, cut through the contours of an image, and trim sharp-angled engraving elements. Spitzstichel is also used to make various inscriptions on metal in calligraphy. By deepening or bringing the tip of the cutter closer to the surface, the width of the groove being cut is adjusted. But the widest lines are obtained when engraving with the side cylindrical surface of the gravel. Flachshtikhel (flyakhshtihel) is a flat cutter, the back flat edge of which is always parallel to the back. “Flah” translated into Russian means “flat”, “even”. The Flachstichel is used for engraving flat-bottomed grooves with a width of 3.5 mm to 5 mm. It is used to remove metal when deepening the background in armor engraving. Jewelers use flagstones for finishing parts of products. Boltstihel is a round or semicircular cutter. Without translation, it is not difficult to guess that the side surfaces of the bolt head are cylindrical. Using a bolt tool, you can cut grooves in metal with a width of 0.1 mm to 5 mm. In armor works, this tool is used when engraving curved recesses of patterns, font inscriptions, and for modeling protruding elements of images. Use a bolt-tip to select recessed areas of the background. Thin bolt pins can be made from steel needles and knitting needles of varying thicknesses. Since a needle blade cannot have the required rigidity, it is mounted on an elongated wooden handle. It must be said that elongated handles are also used for short blades of all types of blades. Shatirkhshtikhel, or fadenshtikhel, is a line cutter. If longitudinal grooves with sharp ridges are cut on the lower edge of the pen, then when the tip of such a pen is passed over the metal, parallel strokes are formed on its surface. Such a cutter is called a shatirshtikhel or fadenshtikhel (in woodcuts a similar cutter is called a repshtikhel). Both of these names, adopted in metal engraving, reflect one or another feature of the instrument. “Faden” translated into Russian means “thread” - this means that thread-like strokes can be made with a cutter. In another name for the instrument, the first part of the word “shatir” means “to shade”, “to shade”. It is given this name because it is used to apply shadows and halftones to metal in line engraved designs. Stickers should be stored on a wooden stand. The most common are round stands with rotating wooden disks, which allow you to quickly find the right tool. You can also make several stands for each type of gravel. In one stand you can hold, for example, pins, in the other - bolts, etc. The stands are placed on the work table on the right side.

Engraving with a graver on metal surfaces

Sticky engraving on metal requires the engraver to have a faithful eye, a steady hand and artistic taste, but above all, patience and perseverance. It is also necessary to decide on the material for the blanks. Copper and brass are more suitable for a novice craftsman. More experienced engravers work on other non-ferrous metals and soft steel alloys, using specific engraving methods and improved tools.

Manual engraving on metal with a graver – Metalist's Handbook

Currently, there are a large number of different machines and equipment that allow engraving. Various technological solutions and methods are used for engraving. In order for you to imagine the types of engraving, we have prepared this material.

Since no classification of engraving types has been found in the literature, we carried it out in this material.

All comments are accepted. You can leave it at the bottom of the page.

What is engraving?

Engraving engraving, many. no, w. (specialist.). Action according to verb. engrave.(Ushakov’s Explanatory Dictionary)

Engraving (from the French graver - to cut).

1) Occupation of an engraver. 2) strokes on the engraving. (

b) Strokes on the engraving. (

Engraving g. 1) a) Technique for applying an image, ornament, inscription, etc. on the surface of solid materials. b) Image, ornament, inscription, etc., made in this way. 2) decomposition Same as: engraving. (Efremova’s Explanatory Dictionary)

Engraving Creating or adjusting an image on a plate material manually or mechanically using a cutter, gravel, etc. Used in the manufacture of printing plates for the metallography method. (Printing dictionary)

Engraving (from the French graver - to cut). 1) Occupation of an engraver. 2) strokes on the engraving. (

Engraving from French. graver, cut out. a) Occupation of an engraver. b) Strokes on the engraving. (

Engraving methods

1. Hand engraving - with a graver

2. Mechanized engraving without metal removal. Engraving using engraving equipment, machines

2.2. Diamond engraving (engraving with a steel engraver) on CNC machines. Engraving depth from 10 microns to 100 microns. The depth of engraving is determined by the force of pressure of the engraver on the material, the angle of sharpening of the engraver, the hardness of the material, and the number of passes of the engraver.

Diamond engraving creates a depression in the metal that corresponds to the sharpening angle of the tool.

A diamond or steel engraver moves with equal speed and equal pressure across the surface of the material, leaving a groove behind it. With this type of engraving, the metal is not removed.

With sufficient rigidity of the machine, an even, smooth depression is formed in the metal - the so-called “diamond edge”.

Diamond engraving on steel with guilloche effect

diamond engraved jewelry

2.3 Raster engraving (photoengraving) is a type of engraving in which the image is engraved with dots - a raster. To apply raster engraving (photoengraving), engraving machines can be used:

Jewelry engraving machines Magic 5/50, Magic 20, Magic 7/70. Engraving of raster images is done with a diamond engraver. Engraving depth from 10 microns to 120 microns. The depth of engraving depends on the hardness/softness of the metal, the sharpening angle of the engraver, and the pressure of the engraver on the metal.

An example of raster engraving made on a Magic machine

Impact photo printers for metal Roland MPX 70 Roland MPX 90 - In these printers, an electromagnetic head with a fixed diamond needle is moved using CNC and stepper motors. Each indentation made by a diamond in the metal corresponds in depth to the color gradient of a raster image point. Black color - no dot.

White color is the deepest point. Due to the small size of the diamond engraver, the dots in the metal are so small in diameter that they can be applied with a resolution of up to 525 dpi. Impact photo engraving produces realistic photographs on metal.

The engraving depth with this method is from 10 microns to 70 microns - limited by the weak force of the engraver’s impact on the metal.

Example of photo engraving on a Roland MPX 70 machine

Mechanized engraving with metal removal

3.1. Hand engraving with a drill. The metal is removed by a drill in which the tool is fixed - a milling cutter, engraver, etc.

3.2 Engraving on a CNC machine using a cutter - Guilloche. With this type of engraving, the metal is removed with a sharpened cutter. Depth from 10 microns to 1-1.5 mm. Engraving with a cutter requires a rigid machine bed to avoid cutter runout

Milling

4.1. Milling on CNC milling and engraving machines. Milling uses cutters or conical engravers that rotate at a frequency of 5000-30000 rpm and remove metal. The depth of engraving by milling can be any - limited by the length of the cutting part of the engraver or cutter.

An example of engraving made by milling on a Magic machine.

The combination of milling and diamond engraving allows us to produce jewelry of varying complexity and exquisite design.

Laser Engraving Burning

For laser engraving, laser engravers or laser markers are used. For laser engraving on non-metal products, CO2 gas lasers are used.

Fiber lasers are used to engrave metal and non-metal When laser engraving on metal, it remains

The laser beam, when exposed to the material at the focusing point, heats the material to the temperature of combustion or evaporation.

The laser beam is generated at a certain frequency, which is why lasers produce raster engraving. The more frequently the laser dots are located, the higher the engraving resolution.

Also, the resolution of laser engraving depends on the diameter of the laser contact spot with the material (diameter of the laser beam)

Macro photography of laser engraving

Laser engravers engrave mainly on flat products or, if there is a rotary axis, on cylindrical products.

Examples of laser engraving on metal

Hand engraving

Hand engraving services are temporarily not available. We can offer milling engraving as an alternative.

Hand engraving is one of the traditional types of finishing that can transform a product made of any material. Any hand engraving on glass, wood and stone requires real talent and professional skills in execution.

A true craftsman, using special equipment, can not only decorate rings with hand engraving or put a dedicatory inscription on a watch. Hand engraving can turn any item, souvenir or piece of clothing into a real piece of art. This type of finishing will help you create an exclusive accessory or add some zest to your look.

Engraving on weapons

For sophisticated gun connoisseurs, you can have your gun, clip, knife or straight razor hand-engraved.

This could be an intricate ornament, drawing, inscription or monogram indicating the owner. Such a copy will become a collector's rarity and a source of pride for the owner.

Collectors, by contacting the master, can order engraving on an ax, blade, or exclusive edged weapon.

Only professionals can be trusted to perform such work. By choosing engraving workshops in Moscow, for which hand engraving is the main activity, you can be sure of an excellent result. The price of custom hand engraving depends on the complexity and volume of work.

Hand engraving on metal: exclusive products

If you want to make a memorable gift or decorate a piece of furniture made of metal, you will be impressed by the choice of options using engraving:

Engraving on bike parts, helmets, as one of the newfangled trends.
Making hand-engraved silver dog tags, applying inscriptions to army dog tags.
Production of fashionable amulets and talismans, hand engraving on commemorative and gift orders (medals).
Decorating cutlery with monograms.
Hand engraving on silver spoons, medals as a gift for newborns, for baby's baptism.
Making engraved plates for boxes or engraving on metal handles.
Wedding accessories such as locks with names, bottles with congratulatory inscriptions and engraving on gifts.
Hand engraving on gifts for school and university graduates: bells,
Applying dedicatory inscriptions and monograms on cigarette cases, silver cases for lighters, and on a flash drive.
Finishing of expensive watches (hand engraving on the watch with a dedicatory inscription).
Making plaques from aluminum, brass, precious metals with hand engraving for wall and table clocks.
Hand engraving on a metal plaque of a leather belt, belt.

Types of gravers

You can buy an electromechanical serger, or you can make it yourself. This will require serious skills in electrical engineering and design.

Metal engraving using various equipment

If you look into history, you can see that hand engraving on metal has been known to mankind for about five thousand years.

Above we discussed the general technology and methods by which you can do engraving yourself.

Let's see what equipment can be used for this.

[Laser engraving] on metal is distinguished by its durability. In this case, a paste is used, which is applied to the object before processing. In this case, the paste is applied to the uncoated material.

The technology is as follows: the equipment directs a laser at an object, which, under the influence of temperature, melts a little, changes color and evaporates.

Using a laser, you can make designs of varying complexity and not only on metal. The price of laser engraved jewelry is high.

Photo:

Diamond engraving allows the product to “play” in the light due to the formation of tetrahedral pits.

Diamond engraving is performed using a special cutter, which removes the top layer of metal, forming those very pits.

Diamond engraving is considered durable and is widely used in jewelry and souvenirs. The price for such products is not fixed; most often, it is negotiated individually.

Photo:

You can apply a design to metal using a milling engraving machine, which you can not only buy, but also make yourself.

Milling in the form of such a machine is necessary in the case of small-scale production (your own business). Otherwise, it will be unnecessary expenses. The machine allows you to make an accurate drawing due to the rigidity of the entire structure.

This machine is suitable for various products: souvenirs, keys, key rings, etc.

In addition to metal, the engraving machine allows you to process wood, glass, MDF and other materials.

If we talk about small production, then such a machine will be simply irreplaceable; it is easy to use, the cutters move quickly and accurately. The human factor is excluded.

Engraving using this machine is accurate and durable.

Stieheli

The main type of cutting tool for manual engraving is gravers. Translated from German, the word “stihel” means “cutter”. This term immediately gives a clear idea of the type of tool used mainly for metal engraving.

A modern metal cutter, or shtikhel, consists of three parts: a blade, a handle and a ring (Fig. 3, b). The handle, which has a mushroom shape, is turned on a lathe from hardwood - beech, birch, etc. A metal (usually brass) sleeve is placed on the thin end of the handle, which protects the wooden handle from cracking when it is attached to the blade. The shank of the blade is driven into the end of the handle from the side of the ring. From below, approximately at the level of the lower edge of the blade, part of the handle is cut off. Thanks to this cut, the engraver is able to hold the tool at a slight angle to the metal surface, which ensures the removal of thin chips.

The length of the handle can be different (from 30 to 70 mm) - the engraver selects it according to his hand. But in a set of gravers, all handles must have the same dimensions. The length of the blades together with the shanks is also a constant value (100–120 mm), despite the difference in their sections.

Sticker blades vary in shape and cross-sectional size. Each cross-sectional size corresponds to a specific gravel number, and the larger the number, the larger its cross-sectional area.

The main quality of the gravel is the durability of its working part. This is facilitated by good sharpening and proper hardening: under-hardening promotes rapid dulling, over-hardening contributes to chipping of the cutting edge. It is necessary that the graver is not afraid of impacts and bends, so that its cutting edge does not deform or crumble during engraving. As the cutting edge wears out, the gravel is re-sharpened, which shortens its length. It is difficult to engrave with a shortened engraving pen. By using handles of various sizes, you can compensate for the wear of the gravers and use them almost until they are completely worn out. A set of professional engraver's pens consists of 60–80 pieces. – 10–16 pcs. each profile; The set also includes special gravers.

Metal etching pen for do-it-yourself engraving – Turner

18.12.2019
Coins, breast medals and anniversary medals, stones and some jewelry, metal utensils and weapons decorated with patterns - this is not a complete list of engraving and medal-making art, which we encounter quite often.

Engraving is the oldest method of processing material by cutting. Particles of material are removed from stone, bone, wood or metal with a cutter, and an image appears on the surface.

From the very beginning, two main divisions emerged in the nature of carving - planar engraving and relief armor. The first means that the image is made with in-depth lines on a plane. The second is convex carving; in the old days in Rus' it was called “obron”, or “defense work”. This name comes from the word “rob” (remove) the background.

Engraving has a long history. Already in the Stone Age, primitive man, using flint chisels, decorated hunting tools and household items with ornaments and designs, carved images of animals on stubborn stone tiles, pieces of bone and horn, and on the walls of caves.

In later eras of history, hand cutting gave rise to glyptics - the art of carving on precious and semi-precious stones; the cutter also gave rise to the coin production of Ancient Greece and Rome.

The art of cutting reached its highest development in the 15th century during the Italian Renaissance, giving the world the fine art of medals.

Hand cutting, or, as it is now more often called, artistic engraving, is a technically quite complex form of art. But as complex as it is, it is equally attractive.

The art of engraving and medallion was a favorite hobby not only of many painters and sculptors, but also of people of very distant professions (even one of the Russian queens chose medallary carving as her handicraft).

By the way, at the art and graphic department of the Nizhny Tagil Pedagogical Institute, both boys and girls are engaged in engraving and medal art with equal success.

Here we will talk about some of the secrets of engraving craftsmanship. Our story is addressed to amateur artists, those who are attracted to working with metal. It should only be noted that those who already know how to use metalworking tools and who are familiar with working on metalworking machines will achieve quick success.

The creation of some objects is impossible, for example, without the use of drilling and lathes, without the ability to cut threads or, say, solder. In engraving, more than anywhere else, the success of the work and its labor intensity depend on the impeccable preparation of the tool and on knowledge of the laws of manual cutting.

Therefore, it is these moments that the article will place the greatest emphasis on.

First of all, a few words about the workplace. You can cut at any table, as long as it is strong enough. It is very important to choose the right lighting: soft light - natural or artificial - should fall from the front. Harsh light reflected from metal quickly tires your eyesight, and deep black shadows on the relief interfere with your work.

The engraver's main tool is a graver - a steel cutter mounted on a wooden mushroom-shaped handle. Depending on the purpose, the gravers differ in cross-sectional shape and width. For planar and volumetric engraving, four types are mainly required: spitztikhel, messerstikhel, flyshtikhel and bolshtikhel.

At first, to practice planar engraving, it is enough to make two Spitzstichels and one Messerstichel.

The main types of shtikhel (from left to right): spitstikhel, messerstikhel, flyshtikhel, bolshtikhel.

Spitzstichel
is the most popular cutter, used when performing any engraving work: for applying drawings and ornaments, for engraving fonts and monograms, for performing all kinds of markings and erasures.
Messerstichel
- narrow, knife-shaped, used for engraving thin and deep lines, for conveying tonal relationships in drawings, necessary when performing particularly small and precise work.

For volumetric engraving, it is necessary to make several flat (flyakh) and semicircular (bol) gravers, as well as special chisels, repeating the shape, but in an enlarged form, of hand chisels.

Flyachshtihel

- a cutter with a flat cutting edge ranging from tenths to several millimeters in width.

Bolshtikhel

- a semicircular cutter with a rounding radius of the cutting edge of various sizes depending on the work being performed.

Stichels of this type are used both for “picking off” the background (for example, in decorative dishes) and for “sculpting” the form in medal bas-relief compositions.

For convenience, a small brass plate is placed under the medal stylus, which allows the stylus to be used like a lever.

To facilitate and speed up the removal of large amounts of metal, chisels are used.

If individual small elements of the composition are difficult to cut to the required depth with burrs and chisels, shaped punches are used. They are hit with a hammer and the metal is deposited.

Punches, like gravers, are made of tool steel and subjected to heat treatment. The most popular punches have a square cross-section of 6X6 mm and a length of about 75 mm. Depending on the purpose, the punch striker is given the appropriate shape.

Metal for engraving

Plates for the first works can be prepared from sheet brass, copper, cupronickel. Their size should not be too large, something 60X100 mm, thickness from 0.8 to 3 mm.

The aligned plates are attached to slightly larger wooden blocks - this will make it more convenient to work. They are stuffed with nails or placed on molten sealing wax.

(The holes for the nails are countersunk so that the heads do not protrude above the surface.) The plates are sanded with medium-grain sandpaper and oil and wiped thoroughly.

Before applying a pencil or transfer drawing, the metal surface is covered with a thin layer of white watercolor, tempera or gouache.

First cutter test

Initial work should, of course, not be too complicated. And yet, from the first steps you need to learn to cut not only straight lines, but also curves and circles. Taking this wish into account, suitable drawings are selected. It’s easier to start, perhaps, with ornaments containing curls, rosettes, and circles.

Drawings or ornamental compositions, previously worked out on paper, are transferred to a primed metal surface. This must be done using carbon paper. Then the contours of the design are cut with a thin spitztie.

First, they take on small circles, changing the direction of movement of the cutter (clockwise and counterclockwise) with the transition to each new circle.

Engraving curved lines allows you to practice a whole range of professional movements: the right hand moves the graver forward, the left hand holds and turns the plate towards the cutter, the thumb of the right hand directs the movement of the cutter.

The shtikhel is taken in the right hand so that its handle rests against the palm, and the thumb and forefinger firmly grasp the incisor 15-20 mm from the toe. The remaining fingers support the blade and the handle of the graver from the side and slightly below. There is no need to clamp the cutter with a death grip.

It is held tenaciously, but sensitively, trying to feel with the brush the slightest changes in the position of the cutter as you follow the patterns. You need to be especially sensitive to the movement of the cutter as it emerges from the metal to the surface. At first, there is no need to try to keep the shtikhel from breaking at any cost.

The first and main task of a beginning carver is to learn to understand and feel the metal through the cutter. Taking into account the above wishes, we will begin the first practical lesson. Conveniently placing your elbows on the tabletop, use the index and middle fingers of your left hand to hold the block with the metal plate.

We position the fingers so that the thumb of the right hand rests on the tip of the index finger of the left, and the toe of the stichel passes between the spaced fingers. This technique helps the novice engraver keep the graver from slipping, and in case the cutter breaks, we protect the hand from injury.

We insert the graver to the required depth into the metal at an angle of approximately 40° to the plane, and quickly lowering the handle down to an angle of 5-10° (up to the separation angle), we begin engraving. To prevent the hand from getting tired and control over the cutter not being lost, strokes no more than 3 mm long are first cut in one go. Periodically you need to warm up your fingers and check the sharpness of the cutter.

Having mastered carving techniques to a certain extent, you can try to create something by decorating it with engraving. To begin with, for example, make a plate or ashtray from brass or copper.

The composition of the drawing can be borrowed from books or, which is of course better, but more difficult, done independently, by sketching, for example, some local attractions.

When developing your own compositions, you can also build on related arts - birch bark carving, Khokhloma painting, and take monuments of ancient decorative and applied art as a basis.

The pattern is engraved first on a flat plate, and the shape of a plate with curved edges is given later, after engraving is completed. The round plate is repeatedly tapped around the perimeter with gentle blows of a mallet on a wooden “block” (a birch block with rounded edges).

Even a simple utilitarian shape and simple pattern can be very interesting thanks to the rich decorative properties of metal. If the beauty of the metal is emphasized by additional processing, for example, polishing, chemical tinting, bluing and other techniques unique to metal, then the impression will be even stronger.

Making gravers

The graver, like all engraving tools, is usually made from carbon tool steels such as U8, U10, U12. Stickers made of alloy steel grades HVG, HV5, although they hold an edge better, are inferior to cutters made of carbon steel in the clarity of the stroke when engraving handwritten fonts and glossy monograms.

The production of gravers begins with filing steel rectangular blanks with a length of 90-100, a width of 9-10 and a thickness of 2-3 mm. They are given a shape that resembles a wedge in cross section. During final processing, the wedge-forming side edges of the Spitztichels are made slightly convex, and the Messerstichels are made flat.

When making a graver, the following mandatory conditions must be observed: 1) the cross-section of the cutter must be the same along its entire length; 2) the lower edge of the cutter should be straight or with a slight smooth external rounding from the middle of the blade to the toe; 3) the cutting edge, semicircular in cross-section, must have a constant width or a slight expansion towards the cutting edge.

A bevel is made on top of an unheated gravel (then after hardening it will be easier to sharpen the polished section on a mechanical sharpener), and on the opposite side a flat tongue is filed for attaching the handle. Finished cutters should not be polished: shiny metal glare irritates the eyes and polished gravers are inconvenient to use and slip out of your fingers. The next operation is hardening.

What are stichels?

Stickers are specially shaped cutters. Depending on what exactly you are going to do (for example, engraving watches with gravers or engraving with gravers on rings) and the type of metal being processed, cutters of various shapes are used. Each of these incisors has its own name. A prefix is added to the word “stichel” - spitz-, messer-, grab-, bol-, etc. If you seriously decide to start engraving with a gravel on metal, it is advisable to purchase a whole set of cutters of different shapes.

The shtikhel consists of three main components: a ring, a handle and a working part (blade). The handle is shaped like a mushroom. As a rule, it is made of wood - beech, oak, birch. A sleeve is placed on the thin part of the handle. It is necessary to prevent the handle from cracking when it is mounted on the blade. The blade shank is driven into the end part of the handle. The bottom part of the handle is cut off a little. This allows the master, when manually engraving metal with a graver, to hold the cutter at a certain angle to the workpiece and, as a result, remove very thin chips.

The length of the handle can vary from 3 to 7 cm - this is determined by the ease of use of a particular engraver and the size of his hand. The blades have different shapes, but are almost the same length. Taking into account the size of the shank, it is 10-12 cm.

Each stichel has a specific number. This number is determined by the cross-sectional size of the blade. The larger it is, the higher the number.

One of the important characteristics of the blade is the resistance of the blade to abrasion. It largely depends on the quality of sharpening and hardening. If it is not heated enough, the working part will quickly become dull, and overheating will lead to chipping of the edge. A high-quality gravel pen is resistant to impact and bending, the edge of its cutter is not deformed and does not become colored when engraving jewelry with a gravel pen.

Over time, the cutting edge inevitably wears out and must be sharpened again. This leads to a shortening of the length of the blade, and therefore the blade itself. Working with a short stylus is not very convenient. This problem can be solved by replacing the handle with a longer one, then with an even longer one - until the blade is completely worn out.

How to engrave metal products with a graver

The most suitable materials are copper and brass. Both from an aesthetic and practical point of view. However, plot engraving with a graver on aluminum also looks good. In extreme cases, unhardened steel will also work, but in this case you will have to use more effort. Most likely, incisors of all shapes will be required to form a complex image.

First, check the sharpness of the cutting edge. To do this, slightly cut the thumbnail. Even with minimal force a deep mark should appear. After this, the handle of the gravel should be comfortably secured in the palm of your hand. The main thing is not to use much effort. If the stylus is prepared correctly, a light tangential pressure is enough to form a clearly visible image. The palm holds the handle, and the thumb and index fingers firmly, but without excessive pressure, fix the blade approximately 2 cm from the cutting edge.

The blade should penetrate the metal surface to a shallow depth. It is necessary to change the angle of the working part. At first it should reach 30-40 degrees, then it decreases to 5-10 degrees. At the same time, the pressing force increases slightly. If you are just taking your first steps in engraving, it is better to make lines no more than 4-5 mm long and then connect them. Over time, gradually increase the length of the continuous line. This will allow you to achieve higher image quality and accuracy.

We hope that these lessons on hand engraving with a metal pen will help you in your independent work.

Rules and basic techniques for working as an engraver with a graver

During operation, the gravel is held in the right hand, with its handle resting on the palm. The thumb and index finger hold the blade of the gravel at a distance of 15-20 mm from the frontal edge. The remaining fingers support the gravel - its blade, the handle on the side and the bottom. The elbow is suspended, and the hand rests only on the thumb, sliding along the surface on which the engraving is applied. It also acts as a kind of brake, that is, it prevents the graver from slipping forward. Using your index finger, you adjust the pressure on the rib of the gravel and also guide it. At the very beginning of engraving, the fingers are positioned so that the index finger of the left hand rests on the thumb of the right hand. The front edge of the gravel should pass between the fingers. This arrangement helps engravers avoid the gravel from slipping and protect themselves from injury to their left hand.

The graver is inserted into the metal at an angle of 40 degrees to the engraved plane. After this, the handle is lowered down to approximately an angle of 5-10 degrees, and the engraving process begins. The shtikhel is carried out by pushing forward in a straight line from right to left.

The pen can be rotated only within small limits when engraving rounded or curved lines. When turning and bending in accordance with the drawing, the left hand turns the engraved plane, which is fixed in a vice. In this case, the direction should be opposite to the movement of the graver.

The graver should be sharpened carefully and correctly before use. The sharper the sharpening angle of the graver, the softer the material on which the engraving is applied. For soft metals the angle is 45 degrees. When processing steel surfaces, its value reaches 60-65 degrees. A dull gravel is not allowed to work. It can slip, ruin all the work done, and there is also a chance of injuring your hand with the serger.

When manually engraving, it is better to gain experience using a large stencil. The engraver usually pushes the tool forward, and the groove is pulled behind the blade by a shiny band. To achieve a clean cut and cut metal this way, you need to study a lot.

The simplest and safest technique is when the serger is moved along the canvas moving in a zigzag pattern from side to side. This method involves better holding the gravel, as is the case when carving linoleum or wood, that is, the tool is grasped from the sides with your fingers, and the index finger presses on the upper edge of the gravel.

When engraving long lines is carried out on metal, for the convenience and safety of the process, a brass plate is used, which is placed under the gravel. This lining allows the serger to work as a lever. In this case, the thumb of the right hand and the lower edge of the canvas rest on the lining, and the middle and index fingers hold the brass plate on the engraved surface. I direct the graver to the surface to be treated at an angle of 70 degrees. The support pad has a bevel on one side. The side edges, different in height, make it possible to choose the best support for engraving during work.

Manual engraving has its own characteristics when removing a large amount of metal and outlining the protruding punch of the working parts of signs, letters and other things. The tool is clamped in the right hand and springy movements are made with its help, while the gravel is pushed forward. The thumb rests on the edge of the workpiece and the place located just below the engraved area. The lower edge of the graver blade should slide across the surface without any problems at a level convenient for the engraver. The graver is pushed forward in small sections to avoid breakdowns and maintain the accuracy of the drawing.

Shtikhel makes cuts in the metal to a depth of 0.1-0.2 mm. During the process, you need to monitor the condition of the cutting edge of the graver.

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How to make metal engraving with your own hands?

[Artistic metal engraving] can add special value to an item.

Firstly, most often, such work is performed individually, you become the owner of an exclusive item.

Secondly, the artistic engraving looks very beautiful.

Thirdly, you can do it yourself, at home. Engraving is the application (transfer) of a design onto a metal object.

How to make engraving on metal at home, what tool or machine is needed? What is the price of engraving tools? You will learn about this in our article.

How to make a metal gravel with your own hands

· 09.09.2019

Applying a pattern to various objects by removing a substance from its surface has been known to mankind for many millennia.

With the advent of new materials, the need arose to develop working methods that allow engraving on objects that are much harder than wood and stone.

New technologies make it possible to fully automate the engraving process when applying a design to a metal surface, but for a home craftsman, the most suitable option is to master the manual method of applying a design.

Do-it-yourself metal engraving is possible at home, if you have the tools and a suitable room to perform this type of work.

What is needed for engraving

For manual engraving at home, you will need the following tools and materials:

Stichel.
Metal blank.
A vice or similar device for holding a workpiece stationary.

The blank for applying the pattern can be used from any metal, but for beginning craftsmen it is better to use aluminum or copper.

The graver is a rod up to 120 mm long. One end of this tool is cut at an angle and sharpened, the other is installed in a handle made of wood or plastic.

The graver can be of different shapes and also differ in the width of the working surface. If you do not have this tool, you can make it yourself if you have materials suitable for this purpose.

Making your own gravel

To make a gravel, it is necessary to use tool steel. The metal used in springs and ball bearings is excellent for this purpose. To make a cutting surface, you can use old files and needle files, as well as various cutters that need to be cut into thin strips.

The ideal material for making an engraving pen is P18 steel. From old circles for circular saws you can make a large number of blanks for the production of gravers at home. Next, the working part of the workpiece is sharpened at an angle that will make it possible to make a notch of a certain width on the metal surface.

The handle of the gravel is made of hardwood, and should be of such a width that the master can comfortably hold the tool in his hand. The recommended length of this part of the gravel is usually 50 mm.

A mushroom-shaped handle is the most suitable for making this tool, but you can experiment and make several different options, and in the process choose the most suitable option.

Preparation of the workpiece

First of all, you should select a blank on which the drawing will be displayed. The selected product must be free of rust and chips. To prepare the surface you will need:

Sandpaper P400.
GOI paste No. 1 or No. 2

First, the workpiece is polished using sandpaper. Then final polishing is carried out using GOI paste.

To avoid damage to the surface, when carrying out polishing work with GOI paste, it is recommended to use this product only No. 1 or No. 2.

You should also do the following before finishing polishing with this product:

Prepare a flannel cloth and moisten it with white spirit
Pour GOI paste onto a dampened cloth.
Wipe the unwanted area of metal with a cloth to remove large pieces that could scratch the surface.

After such preparation, the workpiece is polished using uniform circular movements. After completing the polishing activities, the metal object must be rinsed in kerosene and dried at room temperature.

The process of engraving on metal

If you are engraving a metal surface for the first time, then before you start applying the main design, it is recommended to practice on an unnecessary piece of metal.

The ideal option for such training is to use a copper plate. A piece of copper should be securely fixed to a wooden board using self-tapping screws with wide heads. When the workpiece is secured, the board is laid on the table, additional lighting is turned on if necessary, the cutting tool is clamped in the right hand, and an even notch is made on the metal surface.

To prevent the hand from slipping when making a straight line, on the surface of the metal plate the thumbs of the left and right hands should be connected and touch the plate where the drawing is made.

The index finger of the right hand, at this time, rests on the tool’s cutter and completely controls the process of drawing lines. It is recommended to first make several straight parallel stripes on the workpiece.

When the smooth areas look good, you can move on to making semicircular lines.

When your hand is already a little full, you can begin to engrave the design on the workpiece. To carry out this work, the metal object must also be securely fixed. For this purpose, a device similar to the self-tapping locking mechanism described above should be made.

General technology

The technique can be manual or mechanical (various equipment is used).

It is also divided into line and armor:

The line engraving technique is performed by applying contour lines and strokes to an object. Metal carvings are not deep, affecting only the surface of the object;
Defensive, otherwise called three-dimensional, mechanical deep technique allows you to achieve a three-dimensional pattern. See photo.

Incisive engraving is performed with a special tool – a graver.

If you ask yourself how to make it yourself and where to buy these tools, then the answer is simple: this tool is sold in the same stores where you can find various art supplies.

The finest lines are made with a Messer-Stichel. If you need to make parallel lines, they are made with a rap pen.

To perform high-quality work, this tool must be sharpened; for this, a fine-grained whetstone is used, which is pre-moistened with water or oil.

The graver is brought “to readiness” with a leather product (you can take an old belt) coated with chromium oxide.

Manual processing of small items at home requires the presence of a special pillow; you can easily make it yourself: take two pieces of fabric of the same size (round or square), sew them together along the edge, stepping back from it a little, but you need to leave a small gap in order to so you can pour sand inside.

The prepared form is turned inside out, dried sand is poured in, and the remaining hole is sewn up.

The cushion engraving tool is ready.

How to properly hold the instrument in your hand?

This should be done as if you were holding a regular ballpoint pen: the index finger should be on top of the blade (that’s what the metal part of the cutter is called), and the thumb should hold it on the side.

Work must be done on your own.

In the case when you need to change the direction of the pattern, unfold the pillow with the object on which the element is being applied, but do not change the direction of movement of the hand.

What else is useful to know about incisors?

To do your own engraving at home, it is advisable to first practice so that the carving turns out beautiful in the end.

It is better to purchase a set of tools: it is better to apply rounded lines with a square section of cutters, and it is better to make straight lines with a round section.

During work, burrs very often appear, which cannot be avoided, but they can be removed with the help of a scraper.

How to engrave metal at home

Applying a pattern to various objects by removing a substance from its surface has been known to mankind for many millennia.

With the advent of new materials, the need arose to develop working methods that allow engraving on objects that are much harder than wood and stone.

Do-it-yourself metal engraving is possible at home, if you have the tools and a suitable room to perform this type of work.

Engraving pen

Manual engraving at home requires: - A graver - A metal workpiece - Something solid to hold the metal workpiece, possibly a vice

For beginners, we recommend using a softer metal, such as copper or aluminum, as a workpiece.

A shtikhel is a rod, usually 120 -130 millimeters in size. The tip of the gravel is cut at a certain angle and sharpened. The second tip is inserted into the handle, usually wooden. Engraving pens come in various shapes and differ in the width of the working surface. If you don’t have this tool, you can easily make it yourself if you have the right materials. To make a graver you need tool steel. The metal used in ball bearings and springs is excellent here. To make a cutting surface, you need to use a cutter, a needle file, a file, cutting it into thin strips. The best material to make an engraving pen is P18 steel. You can also make a graver from circular saw blades. Then we sharpen the workpiece at an angle, which will allow us to make a notch of the required width. If we talk about the handle of a wooden pen, then it must be made of hardwood, with a width convenient for the master to hold in his hand. The mushroom shape is, in our opinion, the best option.

Color engraving

To make the drawing look more clear and beautiful, use a glass pencil or ink.

In order for the effect of using these tools to remain as long as possible, the surface is coated with colorless varnish.

You can make the drawing clearer using a needle and oil paints. This set allows you to scratch auxiliary lines of the pattern, which are subsequently covered with paint.

Artistic color engraving allows you to make the product colorful. To do this, those elements that do not need to be painted are coated with transparent varnish.

How to blacken a metal object? Special equipment is not used for this, but the following substances are required: sulfur and potash (potassium carbonate) in a ratio of 1:2.

This composition must be put on fire; to do this, it is poured into a tin can. The mixture must be constantly stirred, and the fire should not be high.

The mixture is removed from the heat when it turns black. Before this, it will need to be ground in a mortar; after the fire, it is also placed in a mortar and ground again (cooled).

Blackening occurs as follows:

Water is added to the resulting mixture (1:9);
A brass object is placed in the solution;
It is heated until the product acquires the desired shade.

You can make the background dark before applying the drawing. In this case, varnish is not needed.

You can make an object brown with your own hands by keeping it in a solution of zinc chloride and copper sulfate with the addition of water (100g, 100g, 200g, respectively).

Hand painting in steel gray color is obtained from 1 liter of water, two grams of ordinary salt and two grams of a mixture of sulfur and potash.

The orange-red color is obtained from a solution of potassium sulphide: 1 gram of the substance per 250 grams of water.

Upon completion of work, the varnish is erased.

The blackening of an object and the blackness we know are two different things. The technique used to create niello is mechanical; it cannot be done with your own hands.

Engraving at home. Methods

The general technology for applying a pattern to a metal surface was presented above.

Engraving on metal at home can be done with any sharp object. Let's consider several ways.

Application is carried out using a special device

To create a high-quality drawing, it is better to use a tool called an engraver. You can purchase a whole set for creating lines of different thicknesses (see photo).

Drawings on the surface of an object must be done using the following technology:

You can make a pattern on an object yourself using a pencil or marker, or you can use a copy sheet;
The next step is to apply the design with an engraver to the surface of the object. The cutters should be moved in one direction in good lighting;
The resulting result is fixed with a thin layer of wax or colorless varnish.

Drawing using a set of materials at hand

What does the set include:

nail polish;
toothpick (match);
salt;
phone charger;
glass and nail polish remover.

The price of such a set is minimal; no cutters are needed.

The item is coated with a thick layer of varnish. Use a toothpick (match) to scratch the pattern. You need to put 2 tbsp in a glass. l. salt, add water and stir.

Charging from the phone is applied to the object with a plus, and with a minus - to any second metal object.

The second item is placed in a glass of water, and the device is plugged into an outlet.

This should be done for five minutes (a little less, depending on the desired etching depth). Upon completion of work, it is necessary to wipe off the varnish.

This method is good because it does not use cutters, paste or other tools, only what is at hand and the price will be low. Thus, at home you can make personalized spoons, forks, decorative sets, etc., all with your own hands.

Engraving can be done with a drill

This instrument works on the same principle as the machine in the dentist's office.

The price of the device is about 5,000 rubles, so the machine is purchased when the products are planned to be made more than once.

In addition to the device itself, you need to purchase a set of attachments; the average price of one attachment is about 50 rubles.

It should be noted that to operate a metal drill with your own hands, you need a milling set, and its price is also impressive.

The tool and machine are first tested to achieve good results.

How to make an engraver with your own hands - Metals, equipment, instructions

Applying a pattern to various objects by removing a substance from its surface has been known to mankind for many millennia.

With the advent of new materials, the need arose to develop working methods that allow engraving on objects that are much harder than wood and stone.

Do-it-yourself metal engraving is possible at home, if you have the tools and a suitable room to perform this type of work.

Transferring a complex image to metal

The original method of transferring an image to a metal base is carried out in the following sequence:

Varnish is applied to the surface of the metal being processed.
Using a soft graphite pencil, an image is drawn on a polyester film that will be engraved on the workpiece.
The drawing is covered with tape, pressed over the entire area to the film and carefully removed from it. In this case, the image drawn earlier will remain on the sticky surface of the tape.
When the varnish dries, the tape is attached to the metal surface, smoothed with a roller or other soft object, and then removed.

After correctly performing the described steps, a pattern will remain on the product, which can be used for engraving.

Other engraving methods

In addition to the manual engraving method at home, the following methods can be used to change the relief of a metal surface:

Chemical engraving is a method that can be easily done at home, even with regular table salt and a phone charger.
Using a drill is a great method for home use. The principle of metal removal by this method is similar to manual engraving, but instead of a sercie, a drill or similar device with a rotating thin drill is used.
Laser engraving is the most advanced way of applying a design to a metal surface, but equipment for this type of work will be too expensive. The use of this engraving method is justified only when the hobby of drawing designs on metal becomes a profession and brings in a constant income.

Conclusion

How to make engraving on metal and which method to master to perform this type of work, everyone must decide for themselves. To begin with, it is recommended to purchase a professional tool for manual work. After working with hand tools for some time, you can move on to mastering the equipment, which will significantly speed up the engraving process.

It is recommended to purchase metal engraving tools only in specialized stores. When making your own gravers, you should pay attention to the cutting surface of the tool, which must be perfectly sharpened.

A gravel that is not sharp enough and has knocked down corners will not allow you to remove the metal correctly. When working with the tool, you must also be careful, otherwise you can seriously injure yourself.

If such a nuisance has already occurred, then the wound should be disinfected and bandaged.

By taking precautions and using high-quality tools, you can create real handmade masterpieces at home, which can be used not only for personal purposes, but can be sold at special online auctions for the sale of handmade items.