Do-it-yourself universal wheel bearing puller

In order to remove a bearing from the electric motor shaft of some tool (drill, grinder, etc.) or, for example, a generator without unnecessary problems, you will need a simple device - a puller.

These devices can be large or small, and can also vary in design - for example, there are pullers with two, three or even four jaws.

However, regardless of external differences and design features, bearing pullers operate on the same principle.

If we talk about which one is better, then three-legged models are considered universal. Although in most cases the use of two-legged devices is sufficient.

In addition, pullers are hydraulic and mechanical.

The first ones are convenient because no effort is required. The second ones are cheaper and easy to manufacture. In this article we will look at homemade mechanical pullers.

Unlike factory-made devices, pullers made by yourself will cost less (for assembly, you can use any available materials that you can find in the workshop) and will last longer.

We will look at how to make simple devices that will be of interest to those who do not have a welding machine in their workshop or garage.

To work, you will need the most common power tool that every man has:

electric drill;
Bulgarian;
hand tool.

Reliable simple do-it-yourself bearing puller - Do it yourself

How can you tell if a wheel bearing has failed? By the sound! The main symptom is a hum that gets worse during acceleration. If it occurs only occasionally, it means the bearing has just started to fail.

A constant suspicious sound as the load increases means that this part of the car requires immediate replacement. In any case, to carry out repairs you will need a bearing puller.

You can buy it or make it yourself.

How a puller makes life easier for a car owner

Using this tool, you can dismantle bearings, bushings, pulleys, flanges and other components, remove or fix rings and gears, and repair chassis elements.

It greatly facilitates the process of maintenance and repair of various parts of the vehicle. Using the right puller, you can quickly and easily replace a damaged element without the risk of damaging the machine elements connected to it.

In addition, the tool can be used to work with hard-to-reach parts of the car, in a convenient position.

Products can have different designs, but the most common is the following - several gripping arms, which are shaped like hooks, and a threaded rod between them. Thanks to this structure, you can easily grab the required element and press the bearing out of it.

Kinds

Tools are divided into two groups.

Hydraulic. When they operate, hydraulic traction is used; removal and landing are performed in semi-automatic mode. The main part of such a puller is a hydraulic nut, the internal cavity of which presses on a special piston. This, in turn, transfers the force to the desired part. The hydraulic model is in demand among owners of trucks and other large vehicles - with its help you can easily remove the most massive internal parts.

This is what a hydraulic bearing puller looks like

Mechanical. They operate from human muscular strength and are in demand for mounting/dismounting wheel bearings. There are two-jaw, three-jaw and internal ones. Two-grip ones are the simplest. They are used where maximum process control is needed. Three-jaw machines are equipped with three paws and are used for working with the front hub and generator. Internal options are useful for removing ball and needle roller bearings; in addition, they can be used to dismantle various brass couplings.

: How to add another driver to OSAGO? Mechanical three-arm model

Bearing pullers can come in different sizes, but the most popular are universal ones. Their parameters can be adjusted manually, adjusting them to any diameter.

You can make different tools with your own hands, but it is best to make a universal three-jawed version - it is convenient to use.

Diagram of a two-jaw puller

Making a universal three-gripper with your own hands

To make a universal three-jaw puller designed for working with bearings ranging in size from 202 to 308, you will need:

sheet metal (10 mm wide);
round metal with a diameter of 30 mm.

If you plan to remove large bearings, take sheet metal 15 mm wide and round timber 30 mm in diameter.

The first stage of production is sketching. Calculate the length of the legs - it should be 200 mm. Sketch the sheet metal according to the drawing and cut out the tabs with a gas cutter that runs on propane and oxygen.
Sand the workpiece with heavy sandpaper. The dimensions of all paws should be approximately the same, but absolutely perfect parameters are not required - a difference of approximately 1 mm is allowed. When this part of the work is completed, you need to drill two holes in the top of each tab - these will be used to expand the tool. The diameter of the holes must correspond to the diameter of the 8 or 10 bolts. If you plan to work with large bearings, drill 3 holes for 12 or 14.
Making the core. It is made of round metal with a diameter of 30 mm and a length of 35 mm (50 and 45 mm if it is necessary to work with massive bearings). We take the workpiece and drill a hole in it for a 16 mm thread (30 if necessary in a larger product), cut the thread with a fine pitch. We apply marks on the sides every 120 degrees, to which we then weld the paw holders. The distance between them should be equal to the width of the foot. Now you need to drill holes in the holders. They should be positioned at a certain distance from the center so that the foot can grip the large bearing. This is what the parts of the future puller should look like
The final part of the work is making the screw. For a standard puller you will need a screw 350 mm long with a thread length of 280 mm, for a large one - 500 mm with a thread of 420 mm. We process the workpieces on a lathe and cut the threads. We leave the upper part without threads - there you need to drill through holes located perpendicular to one another, having a slight offset in height.

: About the sale of used cars from AmericaAppearance of the finished product

A simple way to make a homemade removal device

This option is easier to implement, but the product will not be as convenient. You will need the following tools and materials:

steel pipe, the internal diameter of which will be greater than the diameter of the bearing;
metal plate more than 5 mm thick;
Bulgarian;
stud with nut or bolt with long thread;
a few nuts.

Cut a piece of pipe with the required parameters. Cutting off part of the pipe
We mark all the necessary elements on a metal sheet, outline the pipe and bearing. Marking out future details
We cut out the parts with a grinder and grind them to meet the exact parameters. Cut parts
We drill holes for the bolt in the obtained washers. Drilling holes for bolts
That's it, the remover is ready!

Ready puller

How to make a two-jaw wheel bearing puller: video

Making a bearing puller with your own hands is not at all difficult - you don’t need either expensive materials or specific skills. Using the instructions, you will easily cope with the task and get a useful tool for car repair.

Do-it-yourself puller for tightening bearings - Construction Blog

Homemade pullers

When repairing electric motors, in addition to open-end wrenches and a set of heads, you definitely need to have in your arsenal several pullers for tightening (removing) bearings. One universal one simply won’t do. If you have electric motors on your site from 1 kW.

and up to 100 kW, then 2-3 are necessary. I have in my arsenal two pullers for removing bearings. At the moment, there is a large selection of pullers in the markets and can be purchased there.

But at the same time, if you have the material, a lathe, gas and electric welding, and the desire, then you can make a puller yourself. And I assure you, it will serve you for decades. It’s better to make three-legged ones, the most comfortable ones.

I will also indicate the dimensions of my own pullers, which have long been tested during repairs. Let's start with a small one, with which you can remove bearings from sizes 202 to 308, large 317 and more. We will need sheet metal 10mm wide and round metal 30mm in diameter.

(for huge metal 15 mm and round timber with a diameter of 50 mm). First we make a sketch (pattern) of the puller legs. We make the length of the legs 200mm.

Next, we draw a sketch on the sheet metal according to the pattern. You need to cut the legs with a gas cutter (propane and oxygen). After cutting, we process the workpieces using large sandpaper.

Homemade pullers for removing bearings

Evenly adjust the sizes of the 3 legs to the same size. There is no need to achieve very perfect dimensions, the difference is 1mm.

the negative role will not be included in the design. When the paws are made and adjusted, in the upper part we drill two holes (for a small expansion of capabilities) with a diameter of 8 or 10 mm for bolts (for a huge 12 or 14 mm, 3 holes) for attaching the paw to the core of the puller.

We do the same with the remaining 2 paws. Drill holes in them along the first leg using it as a template. Here you need to try to prevent the difference in size from allowing the bearing to be removed to be captured immediately.

Puller disassembled

The next detail is the core. For the core for a small puller, we need round metal with a diameter of 30 mm and a length of 35 mm (for a huge one, respectively, 50 mm by 45 mm). In the workpiece, we drill a hole for a 16 mm thread (for a huge puller, there is a hole in its workpiece with a diameter of 30 mm) and cut the thread, preferably with a small pitch.

In the prepared part for the core, apply markings, three marks at 120 degrees. And to these places we weld them using electric welding, two per mark - the foot holders (the distance between the holders should be the width of the foot). I think there is no need to describe in detail how to prepare them, because there is no point in adhering to any serious rules and dimensions.

After welding, we process this part in the same way using large sandpaper.

Now, having tried on the paw, we drill holes in the holders. Drill the holes at a distance from the center, so that the installed foot has good movement to the side to capture larger bearings. And the 3rd part of our puller is a screw.

For the 1st puller we make a length of 350mm, thread length 280mm, for the 2nd - length 500mm, for a thread 420mm. Next, on a lathe, we process the workpieces and cut the threads. In the upper part of the screw, where there are no threads, we drill through holes with a slight offset in height and perpendicular to each other.

Attention

It is better not to neglect the rules, otherwise you will significantly increase the risk of injury. To remove the bearing again, do not use heat from an open fire, which may lead to a change in the structure of the material. In this case, the part will become unsuitable for further use.

To lift and move large bearings, it is better to use a nylon sling. There will definitely be no problems with burrs and scratches on the part. When using other lifting methods, it is important that the inner and outer surfaces of the bearing remain undamaged. This ensures its continued suitability. Particular attention should be paid to bearings that have an inner ring. It is easy to damage and deform, so it is important not to overdo it.

Selecting and manufacturing a wheel bearing puller

pages:

A wheel bearing puller is a specialized tool designed for pressing and pressing parts into vehicle hub units.

Since the bearings are installed on the seating surfaces with interference, pressing or pressing them requires a lot of force to be applied to a limited area of the unit. Conclusion - for this operation you need a reliable and also universal tool.

A wide range of size ranges for hub units correspond to various types of wheel bearing pullers (HBP). Choosing the right puller for replacing bearings is not easy. You will learn what parameters to follow by reading the article. We will also touch on the topic of making the device yourself and how to operate the tool.

Types of wheel bearing pullers

Study the summary table, which presents several main types of BSC, as well as specific recommended models.

Type and modelApplicationAverage price, rub.

With 3 legs	Removing parts from axles and shafts, including rear hub ball bearing races.	2000-3000
With 2 legs	Removing parts from axles and shafts, including rear wheel hub bearings.	1000-2000
Cup with a set of mandrels	Removing and pressing parts into holes, including steering knuckles and front wheel hub bearings.	6000-8000

What pullers are needed to remove and press in wheel bearings?

For the front and rear wheels, it is recommended to use two types of tools: with three or two legs and a cup puller - this is the minimum set of removable tools for the correct and safe removal and pressing of parts of hub units.

Any of the tools can be replaced with a hydraulic or manual press, as well as a vice, but other pressing methods are described at the end of the article.

A quick overview of wheel ball bearing pullers

It is impossible to choose a universal kit for all types of car repairs, since the range of actions is limited:

a variety of shapes, sizes for charging to the starting position;
limited work space.

Cup - “Force 9T0311”

Internal mandrels 34-80 mm.
External mandrels 44-90 mm.
The dimensions of the outer diameter of the cups are 44-90 mm.
Rod (stud) with nuts.
The plates fit a wide range of sizes.
The steering knuckle remains in place.
The set is included in the workshop press kit.
Pressing-pressing takes place in one step.

Price 18000 RUR

Garage tool. Suitable for use in restricted access work areas.

Long life if you follow the manual.
The articulated design of the paws engages securely.
Removing stuck parts from shafts and machine axles.
Wide grip range - 20-230 mm.
Maximum force - 4.5 tons.
Screw rod dimensions: M18 x1.5 x 240.
The dimensions of the bolts for the hinges are 19 mm.

Price 11500 RUR

The tools from the set of the German manufacturer Kukko are well-thought-out forms of gripping mechanisms. On the traverse, the paws move along guides, and the suspension screws fix the specified position.

Grasp the paws at an angle parallel to the axis of the tension force.
Reliability of engagement.
Maximum tension - 5.5 tons.
The legs rotate 180 degrees.
Wide grip range.
Double acting.
Suitable for use in confined spaces.

Price 6000 RUR

You can also find hydraulic pullers on the market. The operating principle of hydraulic SSPs is similar to jacks. Designed for repair shop mechanics, no muscle power required, speeding up the repair time. Pay attention to the quality of the metal, the rotation of the screw rod, and the condition of the hinges.

the force of influence on the pressed-in unit reaches 20 tons,
operation time is reduced,
the share of physical costs is reduced.

limitation of the working area of application,
the price is higher than a mechanical tool.

Wheel and bearing puller for VAZ and LADA cars

To replace the front and rear hub units on VAZs, according to the manufacturer’s recommendations, two types of removable devices are needed.

Gripping tools are used to remove the ball bearing from the rear wheel.
For pressing and pressing the bearing at the front wheel, cup types are used.

You can select models of these tools from the overview presented above. To select a cup puller, focus on the outer and inner diameters of your bearings, but as a rule, it is enough to read reviews and get advice from the seller.

For VAZ cars, for example, the model Force 9T0311, AV Steel AV-922722, MHRTOOLS MHR04039, NEO 11-829 are suitable. Suitable for pressing bearings into rear or front hubs, as well as into the steering knuckle. Insert the washer on the reverse side, tighten the nut, and put the key on the hold. Then rotate the stem nut clockwise.

Hot topics of the magazine BEHIND THE DRIVE:

Recommendations and tips when choosing a puller

Don't buy expensive sets. There is a rational grain in this: replacing wheel bearings does not happen so often. The minimum service life is 50-60 thousand mileage.
Select the BSCs described above. Cheap analogues or home-made ones will do.
For continuous work, as in auto repair shops, hydraulic-type SSPs, as well as the universal cup set of the KS TOOLS series, are suitable.

Do-it-yourself universal wheel bearing puller

Buying a puller is not always justified, since it is not used so often when operating and repairing a car, so if you want, you can make the tool yourself.

Homemade tools also have advantages:

Proven material.
Possibility to make it to your own size.
The cost is lower than that of a purchased device.
Possibility of finishing or alteration.

Homemade three-grip tool

This type of tool is the most difficult to manufacture, since the parts have a unique shape and require precise dimensions to mate them.

Required tools and materials:

Grinder with cutting disc for metal;
Sheet 1 m2 10-20 mm thick;
Hairpin M18x1.5x 400 mm;
Two nuts M18x1.5 height 20 mm;
Pipe section outer diameter 89 mm, wall thickness 7 mm;
M10 bolts for hanging the legs in the eyes;
Welding machine.

The legs are cut from a sheet of 10-20 mm, L = 200-220 mm, the cross is made from an M18x1.5 nut, or cut out of a solid sheet with a grinder. Mark the contours of the crosspiece, cut it out, drill a hole in the center, then use an M18x1.5 tap to cut the thread.

Second option: weld a nut to the sheet instead of threading it. Holes are made in the eyes for M8 or M10 bolts.

: “Making three gripping devices”

Cup puller

The main part of the tool: M18 pin, cup and replaceable disks. A threaded bolt and nut can be picked up in a store, but the remaining parts will have to be ordered from a turner based on a sketch or drawing.

For VAZ 2108, 2109, 2110, 2111 washers are suitable - 30, 34, 37, 77 mm, bowl (ring) - 77 mm. For other car brands, find the original part number and its dimensions, and then cut out the appropriate washers and cups.

: “Do-it-yourself cup puller”

Double jaw wheel hub puller

Having amateur welding skills, two gripping devices are made from plates, nuts, and studs.

Not the easiest way to make a SSP in a garage; to assemble it you will need:

Sheet 5 mm;
Bolt M 14x1.5x 240;
Bolts with nuts M6;
Nuts M14.

: “Do-it-yourself two-gripper device”

Removable traverse for pressing out

This option is suitable for pressing and pressing the ball bearing out of the hub without removing it from the knuckle. The photo shows an example of such a design.

One or two strong steel plates are taken, a hole for the bolt is drilled on top and a nut is welded.
A second nut is welded coaxially from below.
Next, holes are made for M10 bolts at equal intervals. The legs are cut from a 10 mm plate.
The two plates are bolted together. Between them there is a long M16 bolt.

The only purchase is a crown to match the size of the ball bearing race. Cut the required washers from a 10 mm strip.

Tools and materials required:

Bulgarian;
Welding and drilling machine;
Internal pipe section D 75 mm;
Strip 70x30x5, 2 pieces;
M6 bolts with nuts 4 pieces, lock nuts 8 pieces
Thick-walled washer D 45mm.

Drawings for self-production of pullers:

Click on the drawing you are interested in to enlarge it.

Hot topics on DRIVE2:

How to operate a cup puller

Pressing:

We charge the housing puller.
Insert the bearing into the hole in the knuckle.
A washer with the diameter of the body is placed on top.
We press the housing into the socket until it rests against the locking ring.

Pressing out:

Use a reverse hammer to knock out the hub.
On the reverse side we place the washer in the hole.
Let's skip the rod.
From the outside we put on a cup larger than the diameter of the fist.
Rotate the rod clockwise until the remaining ball bearing is completely released.
Let's analyze the design.

Photo report of the application:

Operating procedure for a 3-jaw puller

Pressing out:

Secure the fist in a vice.
Charge the puller.
The hub is pressed out using a hydraulic rod.
In the same way, squeeze out the remains of the ball bearing.

Pressing in reverse order:

Insert the locking ring and turn the fist over.
The bearing is guided into the hole.
A washer is placed on top under the outer ring.
Press in until it stops.
The hub is pressed in in the same way.

Photo report of the application:

The kit includes a set of feet. This mechanical puller with three legs removes hubs, ball bearing races and other parts from shafts and axles.

Other methods of pressing and pressing

Pressing out:

The fist is placed on the pressing table and bars are placed.
Take a washer along the diameter of the ball bearing housing and place it under the press rod.
Press out the remains of the ball bearing from the fist.

Pressing:

First, prepare the hub.
Turn the fist over and install the retaining ring.
Insert the ball bearing into the socket.
A washer is placed on top to match the size of the ball bearing housing.
Press in until it stops.
Then press the hub into the bearing hole.

If there is an ABS magnetic ring, place it on the axle side.

Using bench vices and bolts

1 way:

Here, under the jaws of the vice, cut pieces of a profile pipe are placed on the edges of the hub, leaving a gap for the bearing to exit, and a mandrel along the diameter of the outer race is clamped on the reverse side. Then squeeze it out. It turns out to be a homemade cup SSP.

using a vice:

Using bolts to remove the hub:

Method 2:

The bearing is pre-installed into the hub, then the assembly is placed in a vice so that the jaws pass exactly in the center. Slowly tighten, thereby compressing the parts. To achieve the final result, it is necessary to place an additional spacer under the end of the ball bearing race.

Replacement and installation of the bearing through the jaws of the vice:

Impact method

The last and most not recommended method is the use of shock loading.

Place your fist on wooden blocks.
Take an adapter to match the size of the hub axle.
They hit the manual with a massive sledgehammer.
The remaining part of the bearing is knocked out with a guide to the size of the outer race.

Use a back hammer to knock the hub into position.

It is better to take the fist to a workshop, where they will replace the bearing for little money.

Conclusion

When repairing a hub assembly in a garage, parts are removed and dismantled without the use of special tools. The use of removable devices (RDF) is necessary when assembling the unit, pressing in the ball bearing, to ensure the accuracy of the mating.

To select a device, use the recommendations from the article. They also make tools of this type with their own hands; standard instructions, drawings and photos are presented in the material. Finally, he recommends using a professional tool when replacing wheel bearings.

Option for correct replacement of hubs:

Our website has a lot of useful information on this topic:

Author of the material:

Mechanical dismantling

If, after disassembling the machine, they want to use the bearing again, then the force during dismantling should not be transmitted through the rolling elements. The pressing force passing through the rolling elements, often of a large magnitude, can cause dents in the raceways and thus bearing failure. For non-separable bearings, dismantling should begin by removing the ring with a less tight fit. The following tools and accessories are used to remove the tight fit ring, depending on the type of bearing.

How to make a wheel bearing puller with your own hands?

1 Do-it-yourself universal wheel bearing puller - Metalworker's Guide
2 How to make a bearing puller with your own hands
3 Front wheel hub bearing puller for VAZ 2108-2109 (review, price, photo, video) 3.1 Types of wheel bearing pullers
3.2 How to work with the puller

4 Wheel bearing – let’s return the car to smooth running yourself + video

5 Universal wheel bearing puller

6 Front and rear wheel bearing puller

7 How to Remove a Wheel Bearing Without a Puller

8 Replacing the wheel bearing yourself; rear, front, video

9 Tools for replacing VAZ wheel hub bearings, replacing wheel bearings, circlip removers

10 Do-it-yourself VAZ wheel bearing puller

Replacing a wheel bearing is a routine job that all car enthusiasts can do. In this publication we will look at how to replace the front and rear wheel bearings with your own hands.

Hub unit

You cannot change a wheel bearing without understanding this component of the chassis.

The front axle hub assembly is also called the steering knuckle, since it transmits the desired direction of movement to the wheels through the steering rods. The latter, in turn, are required to rotate.

The role of the wheel bearing is in the articulation of the steering knuckle and the hub to which the wheel is directly attached.

There are many types of bearings (tapered, spherical, roller, radial ball, etc.), but this is not of fundamental importance for replacement.

Novice DIY repair enthusiasts will be interested in learning how this part works. The product consists of an outer ring, a rolling body, a cage and an inner ring. For lubrication, the insides are filled with grease.

The essence of the work is to transmit rotation through rolling bodies. In this case, the outer and inner cages are not connected to each other. In our case, the inner race is articulated with the hub, and the outer race with the steering knuckle.

Inside the hub there are teeth that serve to engage the hub with the drive shaft. It is these splines that allow torque to be transmitted from the gearbox to the wheels of the car.

It’s worth noting right away that replacing the wheel bearing is possible in two ways:

Universal puller

canonical, which is the only option if you want the part to go happily ever after;
artisanal. In this case, the service life of the new spare part depends entirely on your skill.

The first method involves the use of specialized tools: a hub and bearing puller, tools for pressing and pressing. You can build such a mechanism with your own hands. A hydraulic bottle jack can be used to force the bearing in and out.

To successfully press out, you need a mandrel whose diameter will be larger than the outer diameter of the hub. One edge of the mandrel will rest against the steering knuckle, and the second against the plane pushed by the jack. Another attachment will be used for extrusion.

Its diameter should correspond to the outer diameter of the bearing or be 1-2 mm smaller.

Another type of design involves using the threaded joint between the bolt and nut as a force to push out the bearing. The principle of selecting attachments is the same as for the previous puller.

The second replacement method involves using various attachments and a hammer. They knock out and then drive the wheel hub and bearing back in.

Using the Daewoo LANOS as an example, let's look at how to replace the front wheel bearing.

Install wheel chocks.
Remove the retainer and “tear off” the hub nut.
Raise the car, securing the position using a log or other type of support.
Unscrew the brake caliper and remove the pads. The caliper itself can be secured with a rope. Be careful not to damage the brake hose. Remove the brake disc.
Unscrew the stabilizer link, steering linkage and ball joint.
Using a ball joint remover, remove the end and ball from their seats.
Unscrew the bolts securing the shock absorber strut under the hood of the car.
Pull the steering knuckle off the drive shaft splines.
Remove the brake disc protection. Move the stand to a convenient place for working.
Install the puller and separate the hub from the steering knuckle.
Using special curved pliers, squeeze the corkscrew ring. While holding it compressed, pry it out using a flathead screwdriver. Remove the second one in the same way.
Now, on the reverse side, install an extension that will press out the bearing. Remove it from the front wheel steering knuckle.

Press-fitting

Whether replacing the front wheel bearing will be successful depends entirely on proper installation. Before pressing, be sure to clear the surface of dirt and clean the grooves of the retaining rings.

The edges of the seat in the steering knuckle can be wiped with sandpaper. Be sure to lubricate the bearing itself and the cavity inside the “fist”. Of course, the first step is to install a new retaining ring.

Place the hub strictly in the center of the mounting hole. You can try to fill it a little with light blows of your hand.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dGIS5q-2Uj0

Otherwise, replacing the front wheel bearing will be in vain. Soon a hum or play will appear again.

When you feel that the bearing has stopped, you can stop. Install the second retaining ring. Press the hub into the steering knuckle. We can say that the bearing replacement was successful.

What to do if part of the bearing remains on the hub

Oddly enough, but often replacing bearings does not happen without incidents. When pressing out the hub, the inner race of the front hub may remain in its seat.

The best solution in this case is to tighten the clip using a special puller.

Unfortunately, its cost is quite high, so only service stations can afford such a tool.

Folk craftsmen recognize two ways out of this situation:

file the remains with a grinder and then cut them with a chisel;
knock off the clip using a chisel.

Both of these methods are dangerous because there is a risk of damaging the front bearing seat on the hub. If you use the second method, be careful not to damage the mating plane.

If you cut through the landing site, it is better to replace the part immediately. Experience shows that new bearings on such hubs “run” very little.

We recommend trying to use a hub puller. And only in case of “dead” sticking of the clip should resort to emergency measures.

Rear axle

The principle of pressing out and pressing in the rear wheel bearing is no different from the work done on the front axle.

Working without a puller

If you are changing the front wheel ball bearing using a makeshift method, pay attention to the following tips:

a socket head of a suitable diameter can be used as a clip for pressing out;
The old bearing can be used as a press-fit race.

The clip should be struck with even force. You need to hit on opposite sides or evenly moving in one direction. The main thing is that there are no distortions.

Universal wheel bearing puller

The transmission transmits torque from the car's engine (the heart of the car) through shafts to the drive wheels (legs) of the car. In this case, the wheels are not tightly attached to the shafts, as you have seen when replacing wheels, but through a hub. A hub is such a unit - an intermediary between the car shaft and the wheel.

The role of this unit during movement cannot be underestimated.

It does not simply duplicate the rotation of the shaft, but creates a connection of all components into a single overall structure, including brakes and steering.

Failure of the hub unit together with the bearing located there can lead to sudden braking, the steering wheel jamming in the middle of the road, which can lead to an accident.

Location of the hub in the car

The unit is subjected to constant loads, such as braking and increasing speed, turns, bumps, and heating during operation to high temperatures.

Therefore, great attention should be paid to it.

And if extraneous noise appears while driving, or a knocking sound is heard when turning, you need to urgently check the wheel bearing before a major breakdown occurs.

Wheel hub, its appearance

Changing the bearing is not at all difficult; it is located inside the hub and, as a rule, covered with a metal casing.

Replacing wheel bearings

You can change the wheel bearing yourself, even in the garage. All you need is a tool kit, a new bearing and new hub nuts.

Sometimes, when disassembling the unit, it turns out that the hub bearing is in good condition and only needs to be lubricated.

This can be seen with an open bearing. If a sealed type bearing is installed, the fact that it has little or no lubrication can be determined by oil leaks from the bearing.

In their “dry” form, bearings are subject to high heat or high friction between the rolling elements. In this case, deformations occur inside the bearing, the balls stop rotating and the wheel “jams.” Therefore, you need to monitor the condition of the bearing, which is a very important part for the entire car.

How to make a bearing puller with your own hands

A constant suspicious sound as the load increases means that this part of the car requires immediate replacement. In any case, to carry out repairs you will need a bearing puller.

You can buy it or make it yourself.

Warning

It is necessary to observe safety precautions when working with such tools, otherwise there is a risk of bodily injury. In some cases, it is necessary to make considerable efforts to dismantle or install a bearing. If you overdo it, some of the components may break. The likelihood of injury from metal fragments is quite high. It is always better to use guards and pullers, with which the process of dismantling bearings becomes a formality. In addition, do not forget about personal protective equipment, and in particular glasses.

Cylindrical landings

Removing bearings from a cylindrical shaft

Small bearings can be removed from the shaft by carefully striking the metal frame with a hammer, placing it around its circumference, and using an SKF mechanical puller . The puller rods are pressed directly against the end surface of the ring being pressed out or against a nearby part. Dismantling can be greatly facilitated if, when designing bearing units, grooves for the puller feet are provided in the shoulders of the shaft or housing.

Conical landings

Removing bearings from a tapered shaft

For bearings mounted on an adapter sleeve , first loosen the locking nut and unscrew it several turns. Then, by hitting a hammer through a special intermediate piece, a drift is used to loosen the fit between the bushing and the bearing. For a bearing with a withdrawal sleeve, first remove the axial locking parts (nut on the shaft, thrust washer), then screw a nut onto the sleeve thread until the fit of the sleeve in the bearing ring is relaxed. If the threaded part of the bushing extends beyond the shaft neck, then a support ring should be inserted into the hole of the bushing to protect the thread when screwing on the nut.

Removing Damaged Parts

It is not always possible to remove the front generator bearing right away. Often a device such as a puller is required. The mechanism often gets jammed in the lid. In this case, it must be knocked out of it by placing something not too hard under the body.

The next step is to remove the armature, which is held in the housing by the rear bearing. It is usually not possible to remove the rear bearing of the generator without a puller. There are cases in which the rear bearing is installed under the technological cover; in such models it is not necessary to remove the armature; it is knocked out of the bearing without splitting the case.

Adjustable pullers

If, due to the design of the equipment being dismantled, it is necessary to remove bearings of several standard sizes, but their quantity does not justify the purchase of induction pullers for each standard size, then choosing an adjustable puller .

Its design allows you to change the size of the inner diameter of the ring, adjusting it to the desired diameter. However, such versatility somewhat affects the removal ability - the maximum force that can be applied to the bearing is reduced. Difficulties may also arise due to loose fit of the puller on the bearing. Therefore, when removing a large number of bearings of the same standard size or when removing from particularly critical shafts, in order to avoid the slightest damage, it is recommended to use non-adjustable pullers. But if versatility , adjustable induction pullers are the right tool for your needs.

Read also: Sharpening angles for metal cutters

Aluminum rings

It is advantageous to use an electric induction puller for frequent dismantling of bearings of the same standard size, for example, axle boxes of railway cars or bearings of rolling rolls. To remove a smaller inner ring (up to approximately a hole diameter of 400 mm) or rarely dismantle a large ring, a simpler and cheaper device is a thermal release ring . This device consists of a ring, usually made of aluminum alloy, with handles and slots. Its inner diameter is equal to the diameter of the inner ring raceway (size F in bearing tables).

The inner dimension of the heating ring has Z9 tolerance. The heating ring is heated on an electric stove or gas flame to a temperature of 200-220 °C and, after lubricating the inner ring with thick anti-corrosion oil to ensure good heat transfer, it is installed on the inner ring. Using insulated handles, it is pressed against the inner ring and, after the fit is relaxed, the bearing ring is removed.

Hydraulic dismantling

Removing large bearings from the tapered journal of a withdrawal or adapter sleeve can be greatly facilitated by using a hydraulic nut or SKF hydraulic fluid . When oil is pumped under high pressure, the fit tension quickly decreases and the bearing slides off the shaft journal. To protect the bearing from damage, it is recommended to install a stop, nut or end washer on the end of the shaft.

Removing the bearing using an adapter sleeve:

Dismantling with heating

Sometimes, when removing large bearings or if the rings are seated with a large interference, it is impossible to carry out dismantling with conventional mechanical or hydraulically reinforced pullers. In this case, special equipment is used, with which the bearing is first heated and then easily removed due to the gap that appears between it and the shaft. Induction pullers of fixed and adjustable sizes, as well as aluminum heating rings are widely used .