The duration of high-quality cutting of the knife tip is directly dependent on the methods of operation and methods of sharpening the blade. Yes, there are self-sharpening options, but in 90% of cases such a name is more of a marketing ploy than reality.
In today's article we will tell you how to make a sharpener with your own hands. Drawings with instructions will be included, and therefore, even beginners in handling garage equipment should not have any difficulties in assembling the device.
What to do with dull knives?
If there are no problems with knives with replaceable blades (naturally, if these same blades are present), then a knife with a sharpened blade must be periodically sharpened. Typically, a special knife sharpening device is used for this.
Buying this now is not difficult. But not everyone prefers this solution to the problem. And the point here is not only the considerable cost of such devices. High-quality sharpeners cost a lot of money.
Many craftsmen will get great pleasure from a machine designed for sharpening knives, made by themselves. Although, even using an ordinary “bare” block, of course, you can sharpen knives with your own hands, but in order to sharpen a knife efficiently using only a whetstone, also known as a “block”, you need to have a certain skill and “steady” hands, because you will need to maintain the sharpening angle identical along the entire cutting edge, and this is not the easiest task. A special sharpener for knives is designed to make it easier, be it factory-made or made with your own hands.
But just to speed up sharpening, any sharpener, both factory-made and home-made, will help.
Sharpening machine from mounting angles
There is another way to make a knife sharpener. Here is the second master class.
What will you need?
- metal plates measuring 4x11cm
- aluminum corners
- metal rods at least 15 cm in length
- fasteners
- device for marking when cutting threads
- machine for sharpening metal (can be replaced with a file)
- fixing device (for example, a vice)
- small file (needed when working on smaller parts)
Detailed manufacturing instructions
Step one: You need to make marks to drill the holes.
Step two: You need to make a thread in the holes of the taps.
Step three: For the convenience and safety of using the sharpener, you need to smooth out all the irregularities, blunt the corners, and straighten the edges.
Step four: Next you need to drill grooves in the corners
Step Five: Tapping the Holes
Step six: You need to place the metal rods in the outer holes and secure with nuts
Step seven: Support the entire product - there is a hole in the groove of the base. You need to screw a bolt 14 cm long and 8 cm in diameter into it. You must first strengthen the bolt with one wing nut and two simple ones.
Step Nine: Place nuts in the other holes as well. They hold the part of the knife that needs to be sharpened.
Step ten: Thread nuts onto metal rods and install the corner.
Step eleven: The moment of fixing the abrasive. This is done using a metal rod, which should be in the shape of the letter “L”, a pair of clamps, and a wing nut.
Now it’s time to try out the resulting device.
It will be much easier and more convenient if, while working on the sharpener, you have the opportunity to simultaneously watch a video on the topic and work on the process. The convenience is that if something becomes unclear, you can always stop, slow down or watch the video again.
There are still enough options for making a knife sharpener with your own hands: an angle, a rotary sharpener, a double sharpener, with a vertical mechanism, etc.
What are the differences between abrasive stones?
Sharpening stones come in a variety of shapes, bar sizes, and grain sizes. The optimal size of the bar is considered to be one in which its length exceeds the length of the blade of the knife being sharpened by at least one and a half times. This allows you to work with such a bar much more comfortably than with a bar that does not meet this simple requirement.
As mentioned earlier, sharpening stones can have not only different sizes, but also very different grain sizes. There are five main levels of grain size for such bars:
- Grain size 200-300 Extra coarse. In English called Extra coarse. Such bars are not used for sharpening tool blades and knives in particular;
- Grain size 300-350 Coarse grain. In English called Coarse. With the help of such bars, damaged or very dull blades are sharpened;
- Grain size 400-500 Medium grain. In English called Medium. You can do without such a block in the household;
- Grain size 600-700 Fine grain. Called Fine in English, these whetstones are the most popular for sharpening tool blades in the home workshop.
- Grain size 1000-1200 Very fine. In English called Ultra fine. These bars are used for final processing of blades that need to be brought to a shine. Such bars can be used as a tool for a homemade knife sharpener.
Sandpaper grit
Each grinding stage has its own grit level, which is measured in micrometers (1000 microns - 1 mm). For roughing:
- P22 - (800 – 1000 µm);
- P24 – (630 – 800 µm);
- P36 – (500 – 630 µm).
Rough woodwork corresponds to:
- P40 – (400 – 500);
- P46 – (315 – 400);
- P60 – (250 – 315).
Primary grinding and smoothing involves:
- P80 – (200 – 250);
- P90 – (160 – 200).
To remove small defects:
- P100 – (125 – 160);
- P120 – (100 – 125).
Durum varieties are prepared using P150 - (80 - 100).
Sand the old paint for painting with P180 – (63 – 80).
Fine-grained options rely on finer work:
- P240 – (50 – 63) – for final sanding of hard wood;
- P280 – (40 – 50) – for sanding between coats;
- P400 – (28 – 40) – for final polishing;
- P600 – (20 – 28) – for wet grinding;
- P1000 – (14 – 20) – for grinding plastic, ceramics, metal;
- Р1200 – (10 – 14) – for fine grinding;
- P1500 – (7 – 10) – for polishing;
- P2000 – (5 – 7), P2500 – (3 – 5) – for removing small scratches and stains.
The sandpaper is suitable for sharpening and grinding.
Why do knives get dull?
In order to ensure long and comfortable work with a knife after sharpening, first of all try to answer the question, “Why do knives become dull?” Why is it necessary to sharpen the knife again some time after sharpening, and sometimes to completely sharpen the knife again?
The reason for the loss of sharpness by the cutting edge of any tool is this: when working, the cutting edge of a knife or any other tool is exposed to the smallest abrasive particles of the material being cut.
Such particles are found in any material, be it stone, wood, or food.
Even soft vegetables and fruits contain such particles. There may just be more or less of them, but they will definitely be there. Their size, sharpness and quantity only determine the speed at which the instrument will become dull.
Abrasive wheel selection options
This consumable material for a processing machine is available in a wide range. The sharpening wheel specifically for a knife should be designed for working with steel and the possibility of finishing correction.
The shape of the profile is fundamentally important for working with sharpening. In this case, equipment with a straight profile is used, which is optimal for straightening the blade.
The grit size will determine what type of finish a particular abrasive wheel can provide. For a sharpening machine used to correct a knife blade, almost all types of fractions can be used. Usually there are three ranges - from 400 microns, from 1000 microns and from 5000 microns. Accordingly, coarse, medium and fine sharpening is provided. Sometimes you can limit yourself to just finishing touches if the blade requires only minor editing.
The type of abrasive itself is equally important. Although knives are not overly demanding tools in terms of machining and dressing, today it is better to give preference to the more durable and efficient alumina blades. This material is hard and resistant to damage.
Sharpening angle, what is it?
So, since it is impossible to stop the process of dulling the cutting edge, then at least try to slow it down, and for this you need to sharpen your tool very well. Earlier in this article you have already come across such a concept as the sharpening angle of the cutting edge. And now more about it.
Blade sharpening angles can vary greatly. From an angle of about 10 degrees for razors and scalpels, to an angle of about 50 degrees for various Machete-type knives.
V-shape sharpeners
To be fair, such devices are used not so much for sharpening as for straightening a knife. That is, to quickly restore working acuity. It is extremely difficult to change the sharpening angle or remove damage to the cutting edge using such devices.
The most famous example of sharpening systems from this group is Triangle from Spiderco. The sharpening system is a plastic base with holes for abrasive stones. Triangle involves sharpening at the two most popular angles of 30 and 40 degrees.
Triangular-shaped abrasive stones are supplied with the sharpening system. Two brown stones, 600 grit. They are labeled as Medium and are intended for primary processing. And two white stones with a grit value of 1000 units. Marked as Fine and intended for finishing the cutting edge.
The sharpening process on Triangle is as follows. Brown stones are installed in the holes at a selected angle, with an acute angle inward. We take the knife at an angle of 90 degrees to the table surface, press it against the inclined abrasive, and with a little effort draw it down, on the left side of the knife, and then on the right. After completing 20-30 passes like this, we turn the stones over with the flat side inward and repeat the procedure. Then we install the white stones with a sharp downward angle and continue the editing process. Again we place the stones with the wide side inward and continue sharpening the knife.
The main advantage of Triangle is its simplicity and efficiency. In just 5-10 minutes, without extra effort and skill development, a knife can be sharpened into a razor. Separately, you can purchase polishing stones that are labeled as ExtraFine, or special diamond stones. Which are characterized by high productivity, and with their help it is quite possible to resharpen the knife to a different angle (30 or 40) and remove chips from the cutting edge. The disadvantage is the high cost of diamond abrasives; it exceeds the cost of the sharpening system itself.
What could cause such a significant difference?
The fact is that the sharpening angle depends on what materials the blade is supposed to cut. The smaller the angle, the softer the materials should be and vice versa.
The fact is that a blade with a small sharpening angle will not only be easier to cut, but will also become dull more easily. That is why there is not and cannot be a single universal sharpening angle.
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After reading this article, you will not only learn how to properly sharpen a knife so that it can serve you for a long time until the next sharpening, but also answer your question about how to make such sharpening easier.
To facilitate the correct sharpening of knives, a lot of different tools have been invented, from the simplest devices to the most exotic ones, at a quick glance at which it is not only unclear how to work with them, but it is also difficult to figure out what it is in general.
How to sharpen a knife: main steps and principle of operation
To correctly perform everything for sharpening knives, you should adhere to a certain algorithm for performing actions. To obtain a perfectly smooth and sharp blade, you will need to go through several stages of work, each of which involves the use of different tools:
The process of sharpening knives includes several successive stages
- Initial processing or regrinding. The sharpening angle changes and gross mechanical damage to the base is eliminated. When using a knife sharpening tool, a significant layer of steel is removed at this stage until a perfectly smooth edge is obtained; a coarse abrasive is suitable for this.
- Sharpening. It is carried out using medium and high-grained abrasives. If the knife sharpening device is used incorrectly, the tip may become unevenly sharpened.
- Sanding or finishing. At this stage, even the smallest damage or scratches are eliminated, and the blade becomes evenly sharp.
- Polishing. A variety of polishing pastes containing various abrasives are used here. The final work is to bring the base to a mirror shine.
Helpful information! Separately from all stages, the straightening process can be carried out, which consists of restoring the position of the side surfaces of the edge, folded to the sides. When performing this type of work, steel is practically not removed from the surface of the knife.
What knives can be sharpened?
Not all blades can be sharpened at home, but only blades made from not very hard materials. So, if the hardness of the material from which the blade is made exceeds 55 units on the Rockwell scale (55HRC), then it will not be possible to sharpen it with any tool available to most people. But most of the knives produced now are made of fairly soft materials and such knives are not at all difficult to sharpen.
True, their service life between sharpenings is not long at all.
But no matter what metal the knife is made of, sooner or later it will still have to be sharpened. The only exceptions to this rule are knives with replaceable blades and ceramic knives that cannot be sharpened at all. Thus, a knife sharpening device must be universal, that is, it must be able to sharpen various blades with different sharpening angles.
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Therefore, when creating a device for sharpening knives, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of sharpening blades with different angles, and this is the most difficult task both at the design stage and during the manufacture of such a device.
Device for sharpening knives using electric sandpaper
An electric sharpener will not only speed up the work, but also make it possible to obtain high-quality concave edge profiles on the blades, the so-called fuller sharpening. It is impossible to achieve such forms using a linear bar; therefore, these types of devices are not interchangeable, but complementary devices.
It is noteworthy that a person, working on a manual sharpening device, controls the speed and intensity of the processes performed, while the emery wheel has a constantly high rotation speed, which can negatively affect the condition of the knife.
During friction, the metal surface is subject to strong heating, which results in the “tempering” of the hardened steel. The material loses many properties, it becomes less hard, which leads to abrasion and the appearance of torn edges. Another problem with a “released” knife is the rapid loss of sharpness. In this regard, you need to work carefully with an electric sandpaper, bringing the blade for sharpening to the abrasive for short periods of time and taking frequent breaks to allow the knife to cool.
When working in such modes, it is quite problematic to maintain constant angles, so the tool needs to be securely fixed during such processing.
The design of such a device is quite simple to implement. In the direction of the rotating axis, there are guides on the emery along which carriages with knives move. The angles are maintained mechanically, and the forces are determined directly by the operator.
This type of device is quite easy to make with your own hands - there is no need to perform precise work for processing metal parts. The base material is actually used to make the guides.
On the workbench, near the sharpener, guides are mounted, with the help of which it is possible to change the distance from the knife stops to the abrasive. This distance affects the sharpening angle. The vertical rod must necessarily have up and down free movement regulators that have durable types of fixation of the current positions.
The knife blade should be held horizontally, pressing against the thrust element. The force in contact with the emery must be adjusted directly during operation. The processing needs to be done symmetrically; you just need to change the sides of the knife and sharpen them at the same angles.
The use of this method can only be suitable when processing classic types of knives. Kitchen, hunting, hiking and other types of cutting surfaces of various tools require a slightly different approach.
A common type of design for sharpening knives is the “Jointer”
For such a device, it is necessary to use a specialized sandpaper with an end-type working surface. The guide under the carriage is placed at the bottom so that it is located away from the rotating axis. This is due to the fact that in this part of the abrasive wheel, its work is considered most effective. The guides with cutting elements are moved manually, the clamps are provided by the tool’s own weight.
A drawing of each structural design is shown in the image.
This type of machine was used at the beginning of the last century, and throughout this time the technology of its operation has remained unchanged. The simplicity of this device makes it easy to make for your home workshop. Any components made of metal, plastic, or wood are suitable for this.
By replacing the cutting element on the jointer, you can sharpen the ice ax knives, the main thing is to maintain the correct angle, which should be flatter. Devices for sharpening scissors work on the same principle.
To sharpen a chisel and a plane knife, you can also use an electric sandpaper and locking carriages. But these types of tools are compact and can be sharpened with a mechanical tool.
There are equivalent methods - along the edges and across. In terms of quality, the processing is virtually identical; therefore, it is therefore impossible to primarily single out a specific type of device.
For factory products, blades are supposed to be adjusted transversely.
Using a similar principle, thick plywood is taken from which the frame is made. Any rollers can be used as a guide, preferably more than two. By moving the machine along the surface of the emery, the chisel blade is given an ideal shape.
If serious types of sharpening are not required, simpler devices are also suitable for minor edits.
Attach the bars with the required angles of inclination to the chisel. Place sandpaper and a piece of glass near them. Apply a soap solution to the glass surface.
You will be pleasantly surprised by the effectiveness of such devices.
For transverse sharpening, it is worth making a simpler device, where the guide element also acts as a support. The blade is attached vertically to the moving part. The only drawback of this is the fixed angle, which is set during the manufacturing process.
But, compared to a knife, the resulting deviations from ideals are not so critical.
This type of device can be used for sharpening plane knives. But due to the wide size of the blades, the process becomes somewhat more complicated. In this regard, you can use an electric sharpener that has an end working surface.
The stops are made of wooden blocks. It is important to provide for the possibility of changing angles. Clamps are provided by the operator, and semicircular sharpening can be performed, which is very indispensable for carpenters.
Naturally, this device is convenient to use for sharpening the edges of chisels. Given the high productivity rate, you will be able to restore tools even with a large number of nicks.
Now you know how you can create a homemade sharpening machine to perform all the necessary operations for sharpening knives at home.
What properties should a sharpener have?
So, before you make a device for sharpening knives with your own hands, you need to think about its design. And to do this, you need to answer the question: what properties should a knife sharpener have:
First, any device for sharpening knives must securely fix the knife, preventing it from falling out, but without damaging the blade material.
Secondly, a homemade knife sharpener must ensure that the block is held at a strictly defined angle, which is necessary for sharpening the entire cutting edge at a constant angle.
Third, the most difficult and perhaps the most important, a sharpening machine for knives, both self-made and factory-made, should allow changing the angle of installation of the sharpening stone; this is necessary to ensure sharpening of various tools and will even allow sharpening of stepped knives.
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Sharpener made from glass cutter rollers
Surely, many people have old glass cutters lying around idle in their home workshop (perhaps even from the distant Soviet past).
So, from them you can make a quite suitable sharpener for sharpening knives.
In addition to glass cutters, to make homemade products you will also need brass bushings, at one end of which there is a hole with an M3 thread, and at the other - a threaded rod with a similar thread.
As for the number of parts, to make one homemade knife you will need 10 rollers from a glass cutter (they are made of tungsten carbide) and four brass bushings.
Holes will need to be drilled in each bushing. But not through, but about half the wall thickness.
Next you will need an aluminum plate. We drill holes in the workpiece along the edges, cut the threads, and screw in brass bushings - two pieces on each side.
We cut two pieces of steel rod 1 mm thick, and put the rollers from the glass cutter and nuts on it. We insert the rods into the holes in the brass bushings. For reliability, we fix the ends of the rods with tin solder.
We screw the aluminum plate to the handle of one of the glass cutters, having previously drilled the necessary mounting holes.
The operating principle of this device is incredibly simple. We insert the knife blade between the rollers, and by moving back and forth we sharpen the cutting edge at the required angle.
The step-by-step process of making this sharpening device with comments from the master is shown in the video below. The idea for this homemade product belongs to the author of A Craft.
What to make from a GLASS CUTTER!? Mega tool - sharpener
In general, the design turned out to be quite compact and easy to manufacture.
Instead of an aluminum plate, you can use a steel plate or even a piece of plywood of suitable dimensions.
The only problem is finding so many videos. But at a flea market, you can probably find more than a dozen glass cutters, so the problem can be solved.
By the way, in a similar way you can make your own knife sharpener from a lighter. In this case, instead of rollers from a glass cutter, wheels from a lighter are used.
What will we make it from?
The next question to consider is.
The materials from which you will make it.
To create such a device you will need the following materials:
- A sheet of thick plywood (can be replaced with a sheet of chipboard) 16 mm thick;
- Self-tapping screws 50-70 mm long; (it is better to use furniture format);
- A drill corresponding in diameter and length to your self-tapping screws or conformation;
- M8 hairpin of appropriate length (approximately 70 cm);
- Aluminum plate (at least 5 mm thick);
- M8 bolts with nuts (it is advisable to use wing nuts, although you can also use regular nuts, but keep in mind that then, with each sharpening, you will have to use a wrench, and this, you will agree, is not very convenient);
- You will also need a small block of textolite or ebonite to create a movable connection between the stud and the frame, which can be adjusted in height (if necessary, it can be replaced with a block made of hard wood, for example, it could be oak, beech or hornbeam);
- Of course, you will also need abrasive stones of various grain sizes;
- You will also need a powerful neodymium magnet (“you can get” such a magnet from an old computer hard drive that has become unnecessary).
Locking blade machines
Knife sharpening machines with locking blades will attract the attention of those people who want to sharpen a knife not only efficiently, but also quickly. The design, which rigidly fixes the knife blade relative to the sharpening stone moving at a set angle, allows you to accurately set the angle of inclination.
To create such a homemade machine with your own hands you will need:
- The base is a rectangular wooden plate with dimensions 440*92 mm and a thickness of 18 mm.
- Wooden die 92*45*45 mm (for fixing the vertical threaded rod).
- A wooden block 245*92 mm and 18 mm thick (the plate to which the knife will be attached).
- Iron plate 200*65 mm and metal thickness 4 mm.
- Piano hinge, 92 mm long.
- M8 hairpin 325 mm long.
- Nuts and bolts with M8 thread.
- Drill 6.5 mm.
- M8 tap.
- Self-tapping screws 50 mm, 4 pcs.
The die intended for fixing the vertical threaded rod must be drilled through with a 6.5 mm drill. The hole should be located at a distance of 15 mm from the edge of the die, approximately in the center.
Layout of the hole in a wooden die
Next, in the resulting hole you need to cut a thread for an M8 stud. The wooden block prepared in this way must be screwed to the base at a distance of 265 mm from the edge using ordinary self-tapping screws 50 mm long, screwed into the back of the base.
Determining the location of the bar fastening Diagram of screws location
After the block and the base are securely fastened, you need to insert an M8 pin into the hole in the block. The pin should run across the entire cross-section of the beam and the base; thus the risk of changing its position is minimized. The pin at the base of the block must be firmly fixed with an M8 nut, slightly recessed when twisting it into the wood of the block.
The second part of the work involves assembling a clamping device to fix the position of the knife. To do this, a piano loop is attached to a block of wood 245*92 mm with three self-tapping screws from the end of the wooden plate, with the help of which it will be attached to the base of the device.
Attaching the fixing bar to the base using a piano loop
After securing the wooden part of the holding device, you can begin to attach the iron plate. In the center of the 200*65 mm plate, you need to drill an oblong groove, 90 mm long and about 1 cm wide. The groove should be located from the edge of the clamping plate at a distance of 60 mm. Additionally, you need to drill a hole at a distance of 20 mm from the opposite edge and cut a thread in it for an M8 bolt. Then you need to attach the clamping plate to the previously prepared wooden base using this bolt. Using another bolt and a suitable washer, you need to fix the clamping plate in the center of the cut groove. The fixation should be clear, but at the same time neat, so as not to damage the surface of the blade.
Attaching the Iron Clamp Plate
The most difficult part of assembling this device is preparing the control device that will set the sharpening angle of the knife. For this you will need:
- metal square profile 40×40 mm;
- furniture bracket, 40 mm wide;
- a pair of rivets;
- a piece of plywood 42×25 and 18 mm thick;
- bolt and nut M5;
- a pair of M8 wing nuts;
- whetstone;
- steel bar with a diameter of 0.8 cm and a length of 40 cm.
It is necessary to drill a couple of holes on a piece of plywood: a through hole with a diameter of 8 mm along a cross-section of 42×18 mm (the distance from the edge on the 42 mm side should be set at 15 mm) and a through hole with a diameter of 5 mm along the side with a cross-section of 42×25 mm (the distance from edges 10 mm). The square pipe should be cut in half so that you get a “U”-shaped bracket with a width of 40 * 15 mm and ears of 20 mm. You need to drill 8 mm holes in the ears, into which an M8 pin will later be inserted. Connect the resulting bracket to a furniture hinge using rivets. Using the second part of the furniture bracket, attach a block of plywood to the resulting structure with an M5 bolt.
Location on the spoke of the guide mechanism
Connect the touchstone to a guide rod, which is a steel rod with a cross-section of 8 mm. When connecting the keystone and the guide rod, you should strictly ensure that their center lines coincide. If desired, for ease of use of the sharpener, a handle-holder can be attached to the whetstone on the reverse side. All that remains is to secure the whetstone in the guide mechanism, secure it with a thumb and the homemade device for sharpening knives is ready.
Sharpener assembly
What are we going to do?
The tools you will need are: a drill, a drill of a suitable length and diameter, a screwdriver with bits suitable for your screws or format. Instead of a screwdriver with suitable bits, you can also use a screwdriver (but this will be more difficult).
Any tool for cutting metal (a hacksaw or an angle grinder equipped with a cutting wheel).
Features of professional sharpening machines
Such equipment has several technical and operational differences from household analogues. But it’s worth emphasizing right away that the cost of this machine can be 2-3 times higher than models for home use.
So, we are talking about more productive, functional and precise units that can confidently adjust the shape of an edge made of tool and high-speed steel. As a rule, professional electric knife sharpeners have a durable metal base, a balanced rotor, almost always the ability to install two wheels, and a powerful three-phase motor.
In terms of functionality, it is worth emphasizing the possibility of adjusting the reach, point-by-point adjustment to the dimensions of the tool being processed, and automatic wetting of the working equipment, which protects it from overheating.
How will we do it?
Having asked the question “how to make a knife sharpener?” First of all, let’s find drawings for our future knife sharpener, which we will make with our own hands, and to do this, enter the following query into the search bar: “device for sharpening knives drawings.”
In response to such a request, any search engine will return a large number of suitable search results. Choose the one you like.
Having cut the plywood in any convenient way into parts for our future frame, we drill them at the points of attachment to each other, and then fasten them with self-tapping screws or conformat to each other.
On the frame we fix, using a bolt, an aluminum plate pre-processed according to the drawing (it will serve as a clamp for the knife being sharpened).
Next, we attach a vertical section of the pin to the frame and firmly fix a “cracker” on it. It consists of two parts made of an ebonite block (the Cracker is a very important part, it determines the angle at which the abrasive bar and the blade being sharpened will come into contact).
Now let's create a mount for the abrasive stone: for it we use the remaining section of the pin. Two blocks of ebonite or other similar material and two nuts.
Making a sharpener step by step
Step one: It is necessary to correctly measure and cut the metal corners. You can complete this step with a grinder and then clean it with a file and sandpaper.
Step two: You need to drill small holes in the fastening areas and process the edges of the guide rail.
Step Three: The bolt and nut will serve as the stand. The improvised stand must be secured between a vice or on any other convenient unit.
Step Four: Now it’s time to assemble the sharpener. Next, you need to attach a sample for the first sharpening test and the sharpening stone itself.
Step five: Test the device.
It should be noted that many of the parameters here are individual and the dimensions of the sharpener are often set by the manufacturer himself.
What did we get?
Having assembled the design according to the drawing, you will receive the simplest device for sharpening knives, however, despite its simplicity, this device will allow you to sharpen knives and any other blades quite efficiently.
In order to understand how to use such a device, just enter “video knife” in any search engine.
Did you manage to sharpen the knife? Hooray! You have successfully made a DIY sharpening machine.
We should not forget that any sharpening machine, even if it is made by hand, requires strict adherence to the rules and safety requirements!!!
Homemade knife
If the farm has a sharpening machine, it will make the process easier, but there is one circumstance. When sharpening on a machine, it is almost impossible to apply even pressure on the knife. Therefore, it is possible to make a device for sharpening knives, which will serve as a guide for the blade and ensure uniform pressure. The result is a simple but effective electric sharpener. To make it you will need the following components:
- Beam.
- Four bolts or four studs with M8 thread.
- Four lambs.
- Self-tapping screws for wood.
Opposite the electric sharpener, a guide is attached along which the slider will move. The guide itself can be attached to the workbench or a pre-made frame can be made. It must be mobile. To do this, you can cut a longitudinal groove in the frame and secure the tripod with two studs. Then take two bars, drill holes on the sides, insert studs and tighten them with screws on both sides. The next step will be the mount on which the cutting product will rest. This can be done using small pieces of timber, which should be attached to the sides of the moving carriage.
