DIY kitchen corner: assembly instructions for 3 different models

In the manufacture of various metal structures, rolled steel angles (angles) are among the most commonly used materials. In addition to welding corner pieces together, it often becomes necessary to weld a corner to a pipe or to a flat surface. Such compounds are used in construction and installation work, in the manufacture of furniture and crafts.

Rolled metal for the opening frame

Before looking for a suitable metal staircase project, you will need to correctly assess your capabilities and skills, and find the necessary tools and equipment.
It is not difficult to make a high-quality metal staircase, but before that you will need at least a little preparation:

• Make a sketch of the future staircase, and use an accessible method to calculate the dimensions of the main components - stringer beams and riser crossbars. The remaining parts, as a rule, are not considered; it is easier to tie them in place when assembling a metal staircase;
• According to the diagram, it is necessary to make details and describe how much and what kind of metal profile will be needed to make the stairs;
• Test welding equipment in practice, select the required mode, welding current value and polarity in accordance with the thickness of the metal.

For your information! If you are not sure that you will be able to do the welding work yourself, then it is best to invite a professional welder or train for a week with an experienced specialist.

The last item on the list, despite all its obviousness, has always been and remains the most important in preparation. Welding metal is a rather complex technological operation that cannot be learned in an hour or two of inept attempts to make a weld. As soon as you can make at least short centimeter rollers, you can start testing.

The easiest way to check the quality of welding is to beat off the slag and give a dozen maximum blows with a heavy hammer or sledgehammer. If the welding joint remains intact, it means that the welding quality is fine, and you can try welding the simplest parts of a metal staircase.

In addition to welding, you can make a metal staircase in two ways:

• Riveted with steel or brass rivets. The result is a very reliable and durable connection, but in order to make riveted stringers, it will take ten times longer than when using welding;
• Bolted connection is the most accurate and safe. Making a metal staircase using hardware is easier and faster than using riveting; the cost of material and labor intensity are significantly higher than when assembling parts by welding.

Riveting and welding have one serious drawback. By welding, you can assemble a metal staircase from a relatively thin steel profile, while making the structure very rigid and durable. If you make a staircase with rivets, then, despite the thick and powerful rolled metal, the whole structure turns out to be a little “floating”.

In addition to the above, you will need to stock up on a grinder, a set of cutting discs, a marking tool, a building level, welding clamps, an electric drill and a marking tool.

Which profile to use to frame the opening with a frame depends on the size of the opening itself. If we have a small opening, for example, 500 x 500 mm into which a louvre grille will be inserted, a small door ∟ 45 x 45 x 5 or ∟ 50 x 50 x 5 will be enough. In the case of mounting a simple metal gate in the opening, the size of the corner can be will use 63 x 63 x6 or 70 x 70 x 7. In some cases, if these corners are not available, you can use channel No. 8 - 10.

Welding products from metal corners – Welding Profi

Today, corner profiles are quite often used in the construction of various buildings and structures.

It is also used when carrying out less global work, for example, for assembling enclosing structures for land plots.

The question “how to weld a corner correctly?” is of interest to many, since the strength of the structure and the durability of its operation depend on the correct choice of welding technology.

How to weld iron angles at right angles?

Welding a corner at 90 degrees is not as easy as it might seem. There are quite a few options for such welding. The subtleties are to most accurately position the two corners in relation to each other. There are several main types of connections:

• The corners are arranged with vertical shelves outward (one corner is nested inside the other). This method will provide the smoothest shape of the welded frame and that is why it is used most often.
• The edges of the corner profile are cut at an angle of 45° and then joined.
• Knitting a corner into a tenon - cutouts are made in the corner flanges (the most difficult method).

Let's look at the first, easiest way to weld a corner into a frame. It is first necessary to make blanks from the angle profile, cutting them to size and cleaning the area where the weld is applied.

Then, having placed the corners in the frame, you need to measure the diagonals to make sure the dimensions of the future product are correct.

Next, at the end of each corner (from the outside), you need to make tacks using an electrode. This is necessary to fix the position of the corners in the frame. Then tacks are made inside the frame (in each corner).

After applying the tacks, it is necessary to completely weld the joints of the metal corners. Depending on how large the load on the frame will be during operation, it depends on how many seams will have to be applied - that is, is it enough to perform only internal welding or also welding of all the ends from the outside.

The final stage of welding metal corners into a frame will be cleaning the seams from slag. This operation must be performed carefully so as not to damage the weld.

How to butt weld two corners?

It is somewhat easier to butt weld corners, as well as other profiles, than to weld at an angle.

You can skip preliminary cutting of the edges and immediately join the ends of two corner profiles. The main thing is that the edges are cleaned, otherwise pores may form in the weld.

The number of passes may vary and depends on the thickness of the walls of the corner being welded.

You can weld a metal corner by making oscillatory or circular movements with the electrode (in a spiral). Before you start welding, you need to ignite the arc, for example, by striking the electrode on a metal surface.

The angle of inclination of the electrode should be 45°. This will allow the welder to freely observe the weld pool and form an even seam.

After welding is completed, it is necessary to carefully remove the resulting slag and splashes.

To ensure that the weld seam when welding an angle profile is as strong and reliable as possible, it is necessary to use high-quality consumables. To purchase them, contact Welding Materials.

We sell electrodes, welding wire, welding accessories and personal protective equipment from the best manufacturers.

The lowest prices and convenient ordering conditions apply to you!

DIY metal door from a simple corner

Branded metal doors are certainly a beautiful thing, but this product, firstly, is expensive, and secondly, it is not always of high quality, so self-confident people make them themselves. Next, we will talk about how to assemble a metal door with your own hands from a corner. We will talk about welding the structure, hanging hinges and installing a lock.

Installation of branded iron doors.

Why exactly the corner?

It cannot be said that metal corners are better or worse than the same profiled pipe. Moreover, structures made from profiled pipes are approximately 20% lighter. But for a novice craftsman, making a metal door with your own hands from a corner is easier and more convenient.

Without experience, making a metal door with your own hands from a corner is easier because the metal there is many times thicker, and thick metal is easier to weld, it definitely won’t burn out. If a profiled pipe 40x20 mm has a wall thickness of 1.5 mm at best, then the wing of a 50x50 mm angle has a cross-section of 5 mm.

Metal corner 50x50 mm.

If your material is cut incorrectly and, for example, you need to weld one long post from two short parts for an iron door, then there will be no problems with the corner. While a profiled pipe needs to be precisely joined and welded around the entire perimeter, without “managing” to burn through the thin metal.

And finally, when transporting with a corner, you have nothing to fear: even if a car runs over it, it will survive, but the profiled pipe will be crushed, and all that remains is to sell it for scrap.

Assortment of metal corners for iron doors.

How to make a door from a corner

A do-it-yourself iron door from a corner is made something like this:

• preparing the instrument;
• we purchase material;
• draw up drawings;
• measure and cut the material;
• We weld the steel outer frame;
• We weld the frame under the door leaf;
• We weld the outer metal sheet to the door leaf;
• we hang the hinges;
• we cut the lock.

Actually, making the doors with your own hands is finished, finishing work will continue. That is, you need to paint the entrance doors, as well as insulate and sheathe them (at least from the inside) with some kind of facing material.

Tool and material

Welding metal doors with an inverter machine is a good solution for a home craftsman.

• welding machine;
• grinder, you can get by with a small one;
• electric drill, or better yet, a hammer drill;
• a metal cord brush or a special attachment for an angle grinder;
• emery;
• core;
• hammer;
• roulette;
• plumb line;
• hydraulic level and bubble level 1.5 - 2 m long;
• clamps;
• pencil.

Naturally, the power tool will need components: drills, discs for the grinder, mounting anchors for installation, etc., without which it is impossible to make a metal door.

As for the material, it goes like this:

• For the supporting outer frame, a corner of 50x50 mm - 7 m is usually taken.
• For the frame under the door leaf, it is advisable to use a 40x40 mm corner, although if you are not going to insulate the structure, you can take 25x25 mm, a total of 8 - 10 m.
• To fasten an iron door with your own hands, you need a strip 30–40 mm wide, with a cross-section of 2–4 mm, 1.5–2 m is enough.
• It is believed that for external cladding you can use a sheet with a thickness of 1 mm, but if you are afraid of burning it during welding, then take 2.5–3 mm, it is more reliable.

Guillotine for cutting metal sheets.

Drawing or sketch

Searching for diagrams and professionally made drawings is a thankless task, because cases when a metal entrance door assembled according to GOST 31173-2003 clearly fits into the doorway are extremely rare.

Since you have decided to make metal doors with your own hands, it would be much wiser to draw a sketch by hand. It may not be so “beautiful”, but in it you will definitely take into account all the important details and tolerances that are not found in professional drawings.

Naturally, you will have your own dimensions, but before you make a sketch, think about the tolerances (we are talking about a frame made from a 50x50 mm corner):

• The outer frame should fit into the contour of the doorway with a small gap, ideally 10 mm around the perimeter. From the front side the gap is not visible, since it will be covered by the wing of the corner. But from the inside you will have space to pour polyurethane foam.
• Consider the thickness of the corner itself. That is, if your gap is 10 mm, plus the angle wing is 5 mm, then the internal perimeter of the frame needs to be narrower by 15 mm (the most common mistake).
• Entrance doors in multi-storey buildings often have thresholds 10–20 mm high. There is no point in knocking down this threshold; you can simply cut off the lower wing of the corner up to 30 mm wide. The idea is that the upper wing of the corner touches the threshold, but does not lie on it.
• A gap of 5 mm is left between the inner and outer frames of iron doors, and do not forget to take into account the thickness of the wing in the corners.
• The overlap of the front metal sheet on the outer frame must be at least 10 mm, plus 5 mm for the gap between the frames. Total - 15 mm from the frame to the edge of the sheet.

We weld the outer frame

Working on the floor, even if it is absolutely flat, is very inconvenient, because you will have to turn the welded frame over several times, plus on the floor you will not be able to get to the part from below. Therefore, it would be wise to prepare a metal workbench. The design can be anything, but the main thing is that the upper plane is level.

Homemade workbench for welding doors.

First we need to cut all the frame parts to size. You can join the frame in the corners either directly, that is, at 90º, or with cutting at 45º. Both methods are reliable, but visually oblique pruning looks much better.

Cutting a corner at 45º is not difficult. So, if the wing size is 50 mm, then we measure 50 mm from the edge and get a square. Next we draw a diagonal inside this square, which will be a guide for cutting.

Now you need to cut out the excess parts and lay the corner on a flat workbench. During work, it is advisable to fix the corner on the workbench with clamps.

Laying out a corner on the table.

To ensure that all corners of the outer frame are strictly 90º, you need to orient yourself along the diagonals. That is, the diagonals must be the same. A square is a good thing, but in this case it does not provide absolute accuracy.

Checking the frame using a square.

Next, the corners are boiled. There are also nuances here: you can’t apply a full seam right away; overheating will cause the metal to move and the frame will warp.

Therefore, you first need to grab the joint at two or three points on all four corners, and then gradually weld the seams in small strips, moving from corner to corner.

When the metal has cooled, the seams made on all sides are cleaned with a grinder.

Cleaning corners with a grinder.

We weld the inner frame

A gap is left between the inner and outer frame. To accurately set this gap, you need to cut more plates from a corner, strip or any hard material in advance.

Standard plates for maintaining the gap.

Next, you put the cut corners inside the frame, place the plates between them and firmly fix it all on the outer frame with clamps.

The corners of the inner frame are welded in the same way as the corners of the outer frame, but do not rush to immediately remove the clamps and separate the structures. If you are planning to install stiffeners, then they need to be welded right now, so you will eliminate even the slightest distortion or deformation during welding.

Welding the inner frame according to the template.

We weld the sheet

As you remember, the sheet should “look out” beyond the internal frame by at least 15 mm, but many craftsmen advise making a tolerance of 20 mm. An equally wide seal can be glued to such a wide area, thereby protecting against drafts.

Control of sheet protrusion around the perimeter.

There is a very important point here. The fact is that the corner should be welded to the sheet not flat, but with the upper part of the wing, as shown in the photo below. With this approach, you will not have problems with attaching the internal lining, plus it is easier to install insulation in such a niche.

Technique for welding a corner to a sheet.

The corner is welded to the sheet not with a continuous seam, but pointwise, in increments of 10 cm. Again, do not try to weld in a row, fix the sheet in a checkerboard pattern, that is, at different points, this way you will eliminate the possibility of temperature deformations of the metal.

In single doors with an opening width of up to 900 mm, an outer frame from one corner with a cross-section of 50–70 mm is sufficient, but if the door is double-leaf or one-and-a-half (standard leaf plus a small folding section), then it is advisable to weld a reinforced frame. A diagram of such a design is presented below.

Diagram of a reinforced angle frame for a wide iron door.

How to properly weld hinges on an iron door

Naturally, the main detail here is the hinges themselves. There are many varieties of these mechanisms, but an amateur would be better off sticking with the simplest male-male hinges. An example of such a mechanism is shown below.

The only thing you should pay attention to is the availability of lubricant, otherwise after a year the hinges will begin to creak, and it is very inconvenient to remove and lubricate a heavy iron door alone. As a rule, the lubrication hole is made either from the top (in the “female” section) or from the side. Plus, it’s better to insert a ball from the bearing inside, so the mechanism will work longer and smoother.

What is needed to make a bench

For example, welding fillet welds provides the most favorable conditions for creating complete penetration of the root of the welded joint along its entire length. The technological execution of the task is similar to creating a V-split butt weld. The weld joint is formed between the V-shaped surfaces using a suitable welding machine.

Fillet welds during the welding process require particularly careful assembly of the parts being joined. This is necessary to ensure the maximum possible gap between them. The smaller this distance, the greater the likelihood of metal entering it in a liquid state.

V-shaped welded joints are made without beveled edges if the metal is less than 14 mm thick. In addition, the choice of manual arc welding options depends on the thickness of the metal being welded.

Recommended options for beveled assemblies can be as follows:

• metal dimensions - 6-8, leg - 6 mm, conductive part - 6 mm, 300-350A;

• metal dimensions - 10-14, leg - 8 mm, conductive part - 8 mm, 480-560A.

As practice shows, welding with a vertical cathode is not always possible in the lower position. If this is not possible, V-shaped joints are welded with an inclined component. This way of working has negative characteristics. For example, with an inclined conductor it is almost impossible to obtain high-quality penetration of welded joints.

This is possible due to the fact that the hot liquid constantly flows from the surface installed vertically. The process of obtaining a permanent connection with an inclined electrode is difficult in one-sided pipeline seams. An unwelded edge may result in cracks. Such defects are eliminated by double-sided cutting of edges.

Making a bench from a square profile does not require large expenditures on material and significant time costs.

Below are drawings - sketches, benches made of timber and profiles.

To make such a bench, you will need 6 meters of profile - 20x25 or 25x25 mm, as well as bars for the bottom of the bench - 40 mm and bars for the back - 20 mm, 5 meters each.

You need to make a frame from a metal pipe.

• 1 Profile - pipe - 1500 mm (horizontal crossbar between legs).
• 2 pieces of pipe 750 mm long bent at an angle of 30 degrees (solid back and rear legs).
• 2 360 mm pipes (seat).
• 2 400 mm pipes (front legs).
• 2 220 mm pipes (front leg gussets).
• 4 Plates 30 x 30 mm or large washers from Ф 32 mm (nickels for the legs).
• 2 Curved metal strips 4 by 25 and 500 mm (rigidity of the legs and seat on each side)

When making the wooden part of the bench, you will need bars of the required length.

• 3 bars - 1650 mm, width - 80 mm and thickness - 40 mm (bottom flooring).
• 3 bars - 1650 mm, width - 60 mm and thickness - 20 mm (backrest flooring).

The frame should be connected to the board using bolts with a rounded head, washers and nuts - 24 sets.

When searching for a suitable material option for a bench, the choice often falls on a metal profile, the service life of which is quite long. How to make a bench from corrugated pipe with your own hands? When going to a hardware store to purchase everything you need, it is important to have a pre-made project on hand.

To make a garden bench you will need the following materials:

1. Profile pipes with a cross-section in the form of a square or rectangle. They are mainly famous for their strength, and the presence of flat surfaces is very convenient for fixing any elements to them. It is impossible not to remember the aesthetic qualities of this material: they are superior to any other pipe products.
2. Wood beams 50x80 or 40x80 mm. They are useful for making backs and seats.
3. Hardware. It is necessary to have screws with a diameter of 6-8 mm and a length of 80-100 mm. More accurate indicators are selected depending on the dimensions of the beams and profile pipes. Wood screws will come in handy.
4. Enamels and primers. They will protect metal surfaces from rusting.
5. Antiseptic impregnations and finishing coatings for wood.

Advantages and disadvantages

Advantages

Pipe welding is usually done using a butt joint

For butt connection

• less electrode metal is used,
• it is not difficult to control the process, the designs are reliable,
• The welding technique is simpler than the fillet weld technique,
• butt joints ensure the flatness of the surface of the structure,
• provide connections between parts of different thicknesses,
• It is possible to weld thick metal with a one-sided seam.

Flaws

• does not provide additional rigidity in comparison with overlap,
• Significant surface deformations may also occur after welding (especially when welding thin metal).

How to choose a place to install a country bench

Before you start making your own bench, you need to be very careful about where to place it. This issue is worth addressing because a bench is not only an object for the convenience of relaxation, but also a place where a sufficiently large amount of time will be spent, and therefore the view and atmosphere must be suitable. In addition, much in its design and installation process will depend on the selected area for installing a garden bench, as well as its type.

Examples of the location of garden benches from the design side.

In addition to the options listed, you can install a bench in a place where children usually spend their leisure time, which will allow you to be close to them when they play. It will be especially good to organize a place to rest if there is a lone tree on the site, which has a spreading crown, by installing a bench directly under it.

How to weld a corner without warping it?

I'm trying to make a T-shaped connection - weld a strip or other corner to the corner. In this case, the corner - the crossbar "T" - bends. Not much, about a degree, but that doesn’t suit me. See animation drawing. (The animation is not visible on the thumbnail, you need to click on the picture)

I tried to press the corner with clamps - it didn’t help, after cooling and removing the clamps, the bend still appears. I tried to weld not along the entire length of the seam, but only at the ends. This helps, but my corner is 25 mm, the seam is short and it’s not always possible to leave the middle part uncooked.

Weld and straighten

What is the thickness of the metal? And what kind of metal exactly is known?

Yes, it seems like the most ordinary steel assortment equal-flange angle. Shelf width 25 mm. Thickness 4 mm.

I would try:

1) cut the edge, reduce the current 2) if you have a rectifier, weld with reverse polarity (+ to the electrode) 3) before welding, add deformation (very difficult to calculate correctly, however)

Then there will be exotic things like preheating and slow cooling.

Serrega wrote: How to weld a corner without warping it?

Semi-automatic. At high current, grab a couple of points opposite, starting from the middle of the strip. Cool. Seal the edges. Cool. And so on until the seam closes. An electrode removes metal much more strongly than a semiautomatic device and cooks large hemorrhoids with oven mitts.

2Serrega Rental is initially all crooked. For example, there may also not be 90 degrees between the shelves, or a screw, etc. And another shelf can be 25mm, and the other 28mm. Therefore, it is straightened (straightened) before welding and after welding too.

idv wrote: 3) before welding, add deformation (very difficult to calculate correctly, however)

For this, there are technologists or welder experience. In addition, it must be taken into account that it is not just 1 flange of the angle that is deformed, but both flanges relative to the axis of the smallest moment of inertia.

Serrega wrote: In this case, the corner - the “T” crossbar - bends.

I personally can’t understand what bends where? PS in general 1 degree for electrode welding is very normal IMHO

johnlc wrote: I personally can’t understand what bends where?

Look at the picture in the very first post. It is animated, but unfortunately this is not visible in the miniature. You need to click on the thumbnail and a full-size “cartoon” will open. It seems to me that I showed quite clearly there what bends where.

johnlc wrote: PS, in general, 1 degree for electrode welding is very normal IMHO

It's clear. But, still, I would like to avoid this bend. The difference between a right corner and a corner with a 1 degree bend is quite noticeable. Moreover, I actually need to make two such joints. So the break will be 2 degrees.

Serrega wrote: It seems to me that I showed there quite clearly what bends where.

No, it should bend towards the welding

Serrega wrote: I see. But, still, I would like to avoid this bend.

opened, now I more or less understand, I would cook if you look at the picture from one side of the plate from the bottom to the top, on the other side from top to bottom, or in four sections from the center of the plate in a checkerboard pattern from different sides.

Serrega wrote: I see. But, still, I would like to avoid this bend.

At one time I tried to weld a crack on a cast iron exhaust manifold of a Passat. The device is a stunted household AC trans with a maximum current of 90-100A. I welded with a 2.5 mm cast iron electrode. It was possible to more or less seal the crack so that after cooling it would not burst again, it was only possible to preheat the entire collector elbow almost to red. So, IMHO - and in your case, pre-uniform heating of both parts before welding

Options for welding fillet welds

A simple flight of stairs made of rolled metal is, in fact, a single element from which complex transitions with intermediate landings and turns can be made. To work with your own hands, you can try to do one of the three most common options:

• A simple staircase with load-bearing beams - stringers, onto which sheet metal platforms are welded;
• Staircase with stringers in the form of L-shaped angles. The step is formed by a welded rectangular frame;
• A combined option, when L-shaped steps, welded into one span, are laid on two additional beams.

The first option is the easiest to manufacture; such a staircase can be made even without a drawing; you just need to correctly calculate the cross-section of two beams that will bear the main load.

The cross-section of the beams directly depends on two factors - the angle of inclination and the length of the metal staircase. The steeper the flight of stairs, the smaller the profile section; the longer, the thicker and more massive the supporting beams need to be made.

The calculation must be made according to the second condition. First you need to make a preliminary assessment of the load-bearing capacity of the beam. To do this, we define the load as 400 kg, this corresponds to the weight of two people going down the stairs. Next, knowing the approximate length of the future staircase and the load, using the reference book we select the section of the beam for conditions of concentrated force. Divide it in two and get the moment of resistance, according to which you need to select a profile with the appropriate cross-section.

You can also calculate a metal beam for a staircase using the traditional method. To do this, you need to do a control load - the beam is placed on supports and placed in the central part. Deflection under load should not be more than 3 mm per meter of length.

Lap joint

Lap joints are made using fillet welds (Fig. 3.9). Depending on the cross-sectional shape, the following types of fillet welds are distinguished: normal 1, concave 2, convex 3. In practice, the most common

A convex weld forms a sharp change in the cross-section of parts at the junction, which causes an increased stress concentration. Concave seam reduces concentration

stresses and is recommended under variable loads. The concavity of the seam is usually achieved by mechanical processing, which significantly increases the cost of the connection. Therefore, such a seam is used only in special cases when the additional costs are justified.

Basic geometric characteristics

fillet weld – leg k and height h; for a normal seam h = k sin 45 0  0.7k. According to the technology conditions, the minimum value of k is taken equal to 3 mm if the sheet thickness s  3 mm. In most cases k = s.

Depending on the location, seams are distinguished: frontal, flank and oblique.

The front seam is located perpendicularly, and the flank seam is parallel to the line of action of the loading force.

Flank sutures (Fig. 3.10) are applied parallel to the line of action of the force.

The main stresses of the flank weld are the tangential stresses  in the section m – m. This section passes through the bisector of the right angle and is the smallest. Along the length of the seam, stresses  are distributed unevenly. They are larger at the ends of the seam than in the middle.

In practice, the length of flank seams is limited by the condition l ≤ 50k. The calculation of such welds is approximately performed using the average stress, and the strength conditions are written in the form:

(3.3)

Here 0.7k is the thickness of the seam in the section along the bisector m – m.

If one of the parts is asymmetrical, the strength calculation is carried out taking into account the proportion of the load taken by each step. Example - a corner is welded to a sheet (Fig. 3.11). The resultant load P passes through the center of gravity of the angle and is distributed along the seams in inverse proportion to the shoulders e1 and e2. Observing the condition of equal strength, the seams are made with different lengths so that

(3.4)

In this case, the stress in both seams is equal

(3.5)

If the connection is loaded with a moment (Fig. 3.12), then the stresses from the moment are distributed unevenly along the length of the seam, and their direction is different - Fig. 3.12, a (stresses are proportional to the radii and perpendicular to them).

In general, the maximum stresses at the ends of the weld can be determined using the torsion formula

where WP is the polar moment of resistance, which is calculated for the section of seams in the plane of failure.

For relatively short seams (

), common in practice, an approximate calculation is used using the formula

(3.6)

When deriving the formula, it is conventionally assumed that the stresses are directed along the seams and are distributed evenly along the length of the seams (Fig. 3.12b). In this case, the stresses in the two seams form a pair of forces with shoulder b, which balances the load moment M.

Front seams (Fig. 3.13) are applied perpendicular to the line of action of the load P. The stress state of the front seam is non-uniform. Here it is observed

significant stress concentration associated with a sharp change in the cross-section of parts at the welding site and eccentric application of load. The main ones are tangential stresses  on the horizontal plane and normal stresses  on the vertical plane.

According to the method adopted in engineering practice, frontal seams are calculated only by . The design cross-section, as well as in flank seams, is taken to be the cross-section along the bisector m – m. The destruction of seams is precisely why the section is confirmed by research.

For one front seam

(3.7)

For two seams (undesirable design)

(3.8)

A combined connection with frontal and flank seams is calculated based on the principle of load distribution proportional to the load-bearing capacity

separate seams. In this case, for the connection shown in Fig. 3.14 we obtain

(3.9)

Assessing lap joints, we note that they are inferior in shape and material consumption

butt joints, but do not require edge treatment.

Preliminary steps

After the location of the bench has been determined, you need to start planning the future product. It is worth considering a few points:

1. Size. If the bench is typical in size and you do not want to design an individual model, you can use the data from the table.
2. Method of fastening the backrest.
3. Leg layout. This criterion can be determined based on the mobility of the product. If the bench is a stationary structure, then it should be strengthened in the ground with cement, first digging a hole in the ground of the required size.

Table of standard bench sizes.

When the drawing plan is drawn up, you can easily determine the size of each part of the bench from it, and then begin its manufacture.

It is also worth asking about the material from which the DIY garden bench will be made. Each material has its own special nuances that can be used as advantages to achieve the desired result.

1. Plastic If you use plastic for construction, you can achieve ease of moving the product if necessary. Plastic material is also good because its range allows you to choose any color. If we consider the disadvantages of such a structure, then it will be a low degree of reliability, rapid burnout rates and cheapness of appearance. However, for those who are familiar with the process of making furniture from plastic or have skills in soldering pipes, it will not be difficult to design the product. When creating a product, you can use liquid nails at the joints. It is possible, using plastic material, to build not only a bench, but also a separate chair.
2. Wood Wood has always been considered a universal material so that any comfortable furniture can be made from it. Regarding the garden bench, the type of wood does not matter. The main thing in this process is ease of processing and dryness of the material. It is also worth choosing parts of the tree that do not have any flaws in appearance.
3. Stone Stone structures always have an elegant and unusual appearance. It is always very beautiful, and will also ideally suit any design solution already available in the landscape. However, it is worth considering some nuances when choosing a stone material. These include the inability to move it from its place if necessary, because it is manufactured only of a stationary type. In addition, a soft and warm seat will be a mandatory addition, because being on a bare stone surface is harmful to health and, moreover, it cannot be called comfortable either.
4. Metal A DIY garden bench made of metal will always be an elegant decoration and an ideal place to spend your free time. The use of forging can be combined with another material, such as wood; glass also works well.

How to weld a corner at 90 degrees - Machine tools, welding, metalworking

Welding is a process that requires considerable skill and skill. In addition, knowledge of physics and construction is also very important. Truss welding is especially difficult. This is caused by the combined influence of a large number of different factors.

Starting from the fact that for the production of trusses it is most often necessary to use thick metal, which requires significant pre-treatment, and ending with the fact that it is very difficult to simply weld at a specific angle required in a particular case.

But first things first.

The farm is the basis of many buildings

For the construction of large and small industrial premises and buildings, as well as bridges, towers and masts, metal (usually steel) welded trusses are widely used. This is not surprising.

After all, the use of high-quality material in combination with the right approach to design allows trusses to be one of the most durable structures, despite the low metal consumption.

The truss is manufactured by welding disparate steel structures (channels, angles, gussets) into a single whole. This connection occurs according to a pre-approved drawing. Prepared elements are collected on racks and stocks. They are then fastened together with welds to form a truss.

To fix individual products on the rack, additional devices are used: magnetic clamps, clamps, clamps, etc.

With their help, the truss structure acquires the required geometric shape. After assembly and fixation, it is removed from the rack along with magnetic latches and clamps.

The final welding of the seams is carried out outside the rack, which is already used to assemble the next truss.

It is necessary to pay close attention to the process technology. Welding of the truss must be carried out in strict accordance with the approved procedure and according to the drawings. This will avoid unwanted warping, and, consequently, damage to the entire structure and a significant reduction in its overall strength.

Any process consists of several main stages. Welding is no exception.

It can be divided into three main parts, which are necessary for execution: preparation of the material and welding machine, welding itself and, finally, quality testing.

Each stage has its own tasks, the high-quality implementation of which guarantees the reliability of the entire final product.

Preparation of material and apparatus

The process of preparing a product for welding includes several separate moments. These include: cleaning the edges that will be welded from dirt and rust; setting the necessary gaps between the edges; mandatory tack welding of parts being welded, taking into account the geometric dimensions of the product.

The first point must be carried out with maximum diligence if you do not want to end up with a lot of defects in the welds. The result may be a significant loss of reliability and strength of the entire structure. You will also provide yourself with additional work in the form of the need to clean the welding seams from carbon deposits and other things.

Cutting metal edges is a process that is absolutely necessary when welding metal of large thicknesses. It is mandatory for several main reasons. But the main thing that cutting gives is complete penetration of the entire edge along the length of the seam.

This allows you to significantly strengthen the entire structure. Cutting is especially important when welding trusses that will form the basis of load-bearing metal structures.

After all, the main property of trusses is their amazing strength, which allows them to be used in almost all construction processes.

Setting gaps between the edges of the parts to be welded is no less important than cutting them. Correctly adjusted distance between parts of the corner will help make the entire structure of the farm stronger and more reliable.

Welding corners requires joining parts whose thickness is over two millimeters, and sometimes thicker. The use of such metals requires the installation of gaps from half to two millimeters.

Naturally, its size depends not only on the thickness, but also on the overall design of the truss, which should be obtained by connecting all the parts, including the corners.

The next process is probably the most important in the preparatory stage of work. The quality of the product after welding directly depends on it.

So, after you have prepared, cleaned, and set everything up, you can start placing the entire product on tacks.

Correctly performed planting will guarantee that the entire truss will withstand all the loads that will be applied to it, as it will be assembled in accordance with all technical requirements and drawings.

Tack assembly allows you to take into account all the nuances that may arise when connecting parts. After all, this process allows you to clearly identify a possible change in the planned geometric structure and correct it in time.

Further, after the tacks have cooled, you get a structure that is resistant to minor physical impacts. This will allow you to calmly move on to the main stage of welding corners for assembling trusses.

Remember that deformations cannot be avoided, but they can be minimized.

The welding machine is prepared according to the instructions that come with it. Before you start reading it, decide on the material you will use.

It is also worth making sure that the required voltage is available in your electrical network.

Otherwise, welding the corners will end in failure, and the farm will end its existence without taking on its final form.

Connecting corners

To ensure the connection of the two parts that will make up the corner, you need to follow a few simple rules. Most often, the corner is made at an angle of ninety degrees. But anyone who has been involved in creating trusses knows very well that making a perfect angle, and then welding it, is truly not an easy art. Let's try to simplify this task for ourselves.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7C1m6ahAMSk

The first step is to fit a tack on each side of the part, which becomes perpendicular to the part that acts as the base. Otherwise, an elementary blockage will occur in one of the directions, and all the work will go down the drain, and your farm will remain just a good idea. To properly place the potholders, you must do the following:

• Place tacks on the side where the main seam will go;
• We measure the angle and, if necessary, correct it;
• We put the potholders on the other side and proceed to the main process.

A more complex process is connecting steel pipes at a ninety-degree angle.

After all, they are characterized by increased instability due to their shape, as well as high density due to their composition. In this case, the process logic is completely preserved.

The only difference is in the number and placement of tacks. As a rule, their number is four. They are placed opposite each other.

Their final arrangement should be such that if you draw imaginary straight lines between adjacent tacks around the circumference, you should get a square.

Placement order: put it first, check the corner; put the second one diametrically opposite to the first one, check the angle; We place the third one, moving along the circle in any direction by ninety degrees, and check the angle again; We place the fourth diametrically opposite to the third. That's all.

This is how almost all the corners are assembled, which subsequently become the basis for assembling the trusses. Naturally, if the pipe is pulled to the side, it will not be able to perform the tasks assigned to it. The result will be absolute unreliability of the entire structure of the farm. Therefore, carefully monitor the angle that the structure forms.

Magnetic holders - help in work

The modern building materials market provides a wide selection of different devices that can significantly simplify the welder’s work process. One such device is a magnetic holder.

As discussed above, the process of alignment at a certain angle, as well as fixation to ensure high-quality, and most importantly correct welding, can be very labor-intensive. At the same time, it is not always possible to fit everything at once and you have to start over each time.

A magnetic holder will help avoid these inconveniences. With its help, you can significantly increase your productivity and greatly improve the accuracy of your work.

The average time spent on the production of metal structures is reduced by approximately four times.

Corner clamps help to perform preliminary fastening of elements of various metal structures. They will help you accurately set the required angle for welding trusses or corners. In addition, it does not matter at all what parts you fix: flat or round. In any case, success awaits you.

Magnetic angles occupy a special niche. They help, with the help of a large magnetic force, to securely fix parts, both for assembly and for welding work.

Once welding is complete, they are easily detached and can be used for other purposes.

There is also no need to attract more than one worker per design, which significantly reduces labor costs for production. These magnetic devices can be safely used in the process of cutting, cutting, and stripping parts. Magnetic holders significantly reduce the likelihood of falling parts of the structure, and, consequently, there are much fewer injuries at work.

They are of greatest practical value when it is necessary to accurately fix irregularly shaped parts. The stability of the shape they fix makes it possible to safely perform high-quality welding.

Design verification

After the welding seams have cooled, it is necessary to knock off carbon deposits from them and check for cracks, chips, and air bubbles. After all, any deformation of the seam can ultimately lead to disastrous consequences.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W3NxaiwFnHY

It is worth trying to apply some force to break the structure. It should be stable enough so as not to react in any way to your influence: not to bend, not to crunch, not to crumble.

If nothing like this happened, then you have received a truly reliable design that will perform all the tasks assigned to it.

If you need to weld a corner, then you must be well prepared and learn all the techniques.

It is also worth taking a responsible approach to the choice of equipment for welding, as well as the material from which the structure will be made.
Welding a corner is not an easy task at all. Take this task seriously.
If you follow all the rules and welding techniques, you will end up with an excellent quality structure.

How to bend a metal corner 90 degrees

If you have already started a major renovation with your own hands, regardless of where it is carried out: at home or in an apartment, then you need to be prepared for many tests.

Mandatory requirements for the bench

In addition to the previous nuances in the process of designing a product, it is worth taking into account a certain list of requirements that it must meet. The following must be taken into account:

1. Safety. You should not allow an unreliable design of the product, because this can bring a lot of troubles when using it. To ensure safe use, it is worth choosing only high-quality material, as well as fastening devices and any accessories.
2. Convenience. Undoubtedly, such an item in the garden as a garden bench should be comfortable so that nothing interferes with the relaxation process. To do this, you need to approach the project creation stage very competently and carefully and think through all the details in advance.
3. Immune to influence of external conditions. To ensure long-term preservation of appearance and service life, it is necessary to select only solid material at the assembly stage of the product. Additionally, it is worth treating it (if made from wood material) with special means that can provide protection to the product.

Assembly tool

To assemble a kitchen corner you will need a minimum list of tools:

• screwdrivers (flat, Phillips);
• hexagonal furniture key;
• masking tape;
• hammer;
• pliers;
• other related tools.

Screwdrivers are needed for screwing in screws and other screw fasteners.

The design of the angle model may require the presence of fasteners with different slot configurations.

A hex wrench is required to screw in the Eurobolts. These bolts are widely used in furniture construction. They have an internal hexagonal slot. In most cases, the required key is supplied along with the spare parts for the angle. To speed up the assembly process, you can use a screwdriver and a bit with a hexagonal profile, the size of which corresponds to the same parameters as a stock hexagonal wrench. Using a power tool allows you to reduce the amount of effort applied when manually screwing in Eurobolts.

Masking tape allows you to fasten the component parts together and hold them in the desired position before the various threaded fasteners are tightened.

It protects the surface of the furniture from damage that may occur as a result of the tool coming into contact with the decorative coating.

A hammer and pliers are used to install elements made of particle board. These may be parts of the bottom of the case or the back wall. In most cases, fiberboard is fastened with small nails when assembling furniture. To hammer them in, it is better to use a hammer with a light weight, which will help reduce the load on the forearm muscles and tendons. Pliers help in removing damaged nails and other installation and dismantling work.

The features of a particular kitchen corner model may necessitate the use of additional tools.

Making a simple metal staircase

It is best to use a channel or square profile pipe; after the beams have been selected, you need to make a base. Initially, two sections of the profile are attached to the wall and floor, most often this is a metal corner with a shelf width of 50-70 mm. The length of the segment must be made equal to the width of the span. The entire structure will rest on these two pieces of metal, so they are firmly secured with anchors in concrete or brick.

Next we install the stringers. Each beam is bolted to a corner on the wall, the other end is left free. Future steps can be made as horizontal as possible only if both beams are in the same plane. You have to adjust the position using a building level and several linings of thin pieces of plywood. After leveling, the plywood is removed, and the supporting surfaces are trimmed flush with a grinder.

The next stage is the manufacture of steps. If thick sheet metal 6-8 mm is available, then the treads for each step can be made solid, cut into ready-made plates. Sections from corner No. 3 are welded to each plate on the sides so that the tread can be secured to the beams. All that remains is to level the position of the tread, grab it with welding and weld it with short welding seams on each side. In this way you can make a span - a long and steep metal staircase with a step width of no more than 60 cm.

If you plan to make a span 70-110 cm wide, then the tread for the stairs is welded in advance from a corner in the form of U-shaped frames. The method of installing degrees on the support beams is similar to the previous one. You can make a tread with a vertical edge for laying porcelain stoneware or sew up the surface with a perforated metal mesh.

Hidden Thorns

A rectangular tenon joint looks the neatest because the tenons are completely hidden.

Insert the tenons across the joining seam and as close to the inside of the frame as possible. The holes for the tenons are first drilled on one strip. Then, using marking pins inserted into the finished holes, the locations for drilling in another strip are determined.

There is another way of marking: small nails are driven into the bar, then they are bitten off with pliers. When two planks are tightly joined, the protruding tips will leave the necessary marks on the second workpiece.

Two or three tenons will add extra rigidity to any joint, even large, heavy frames.

Only with an exact match of the holes for the insert tenons can you obtain a perfect rectangular connection from two frame parts.

More complex metal staircase designs

The simplest versions of a metal staircase are not very comfortable for walking, and most importantly, they require very strong and massive load-bearing beams. There are more complex designs of metal stairs, in which most of the load is carried not only by the beams, but also by the details of the steps themselves, photo.

In this case, each step is made in the form of a spatial frame, which is based on a rectangle made of a metal angle or profile pipe, on the sides of which two vertical triangular supports are welded.

In order to make all the steps the same, you have to use a ready-made template, pre-made and adjusted to the required dimensions of the staircase. Assembly is carried out in the following sequence:

• Pre-cut pieces of corner are simply placed on the template, adjusted to size and secured with clamps;
• The aligned sections are tacked at each joint with 3-5 welding points. After the workpiece has cooled, the metal frame of the step is fully welded;
• Without removing the frame from the template, the slag is carefully knocked off, and the joints are cleaned with a brush with a bronze attachment. If there are defects, the seams are re-welded;
• Each workpiece is sequentially laid on supporting beams and welded along the lower edge. The result is the design shown in the photo.

If a sufficiently strong corner with a shelf thickness of at least 6 mm is used to make the stairs, then the use of load-bearing beams can be abandoned; the step frames are welded together into a finished metal span.

This allows you to reduce the cost of work and at the same time improve the appearance of the metal staircase. Metal steps for interior spaces are usually made using this scheme.

Welding products from metal corners

In the manufacture of various metal structures, rolled steel angles (angles) are among the most commonly used materials. In addition to welding corner pieces together, it often becomes necessary to weld a corner to a pipe or to a flat surface. Such compounds are used in construction and installation work, in the manufacture of furniture and crafts.

Welding profiles at an angle of 90°

When questions arise such as how to weld a frame from a corner, you need to be able to correctly connect the parts at an angle of 90 °. There are three versions.

The first method is that the outer part of one of the shelves of one corner is superimposed on the inner part of the shelf of the second. This method is the simplest, but when it is performed, one corner is higher than the other by the thickness of the shelf.

The second method consists of preliminary cutting the shelf of one of the corners to the height of the shelf. After this, the second corner can be attached flush to the cutout and welded with the first.

The third welding method also allows you to weld workpieces at the same level. To do this, each of the blanks is pre-cut at an angle of 45 °C, after which they are connected at the corners, ultimately forming a right angle.

To weld the frame, you need to take four blanks from angle bars, prepared for welding at right angles using one of the above methods. For preliminary fastening, it is better to use a clamp.

Having combined all the blanks, it is necessary to control the geometric dimensions of the future product. Then, having made tacks at the four corners, again take measurements of the diagonals of the frame, if necessary, adjusting them with light blows of a hammer along the larger diagonal. After this, you can weld the joints.

Helpful information

When making a garden bench with your own hands, it is better to keep in mind the following rules, which will greatly simplify the work and help avoid difficulties:

1. When purchasing material for construction, it is worth considering the percentage of losses when cutting out the required size of parts. It is about 10%.
2. To avoid wastage of material, and possibly achieve savings, it is best to start manufacturing and cutting out elements and those boards that are the longest.
3. If you want to make the seat wider than indicated in the standard dimensions, then you need to remember that deflections of the wood material are possible in the absence of a supporting frame structure.
4. To avoid injury, it is better to initially take care of eliminating all angular and pointed areas.
5. It is also worth remembering that wood material is prone to drying out, which must be taken into account when drawing up a drawing and leaving spaces for gaps.

Kitchen corner renovation and restoration

If the kitchen corner, assembled with your own hands, begins to look unsightly, it can be restored, returning it to its original appearance. The method depends on which part of the furniture requires updating - the frame or the upholstery.

Frame

The front parts of the frame, made of wood or plywood, can be painted, varnished, or stained.

To do this you need:

1. Remove fabric-covered elements.
2. Remove the old coating, if any. Remaining paint can be removed with sandpaper.
3. Seal the fittings or other parts of the frame that should not be exposed to paint with masking tape.
4. Using a ditch and a brush, carefully coat the kitchen corner with 1-2 layers of varnish, stain or paint.

Upholstery replacement

The process of replacing faded, stained or torn upholstery is quite simple. There is no need to completely disassemble the kitchen corner - you need to remove the sofa seats from their hinges and dismantle the backs.

After removing the fabric, pulling out the staples, tear off the foam rubber from the strips. Cut out parts of the required size from foam rubber and fabric (faux leather, velor, microfiber, etc.), taking into account the dimensions of the wooden elements. Then reupholster, proceeding in the same way as when making furniture.

Replacing foam rubber and upholstery on a sofa: before and after

Making a kitchen corner with your own hands is not too difficult. The main thing is to accurately cut out all the parts, adhering to the dimensions indicated in the drawings. Even a slight deviation can lead to distortion of the structure.

Timeless metal staircase for porch

If you need to make a metal staircase for the porch, it is best to use the design shown in the diagram below.

At the base of the staircase steps, two L-shaped profiles are used, connected by an edge section from a corner. The main advantage of a metal staircase is that each step has its own support on the ground or concrete base. This means that the structure will maintain its load-bearing capacity in any situation, under any load. The disadvantages of this device include the fact that each metal step must be made and adjusted to size individually.

As a result, the staircase takes twice as much money and time, but the costs can be considered justified if we are talking about a house on stilts, a veranda or a terrace. To increase the rigidity of the structure, you can make two cross-shaped braces inside the span or install a metal staircase parallel to the facade of the building. The latter option is suitable for houses with uninsulated stone walls.

How to weld a 90 degree corner - Metalworker's Guide

the diameter is the same (something about 70 mm). That is, the task is to connect the end of one pipe to the surface of another. My meager imagination suggests that it is possible, for example, to give a “concavity” to the end. How? Bulgarian? Or cut the surface of the second pipe so that the end of the second one goes a little deeper into it. Give me some advice, please?

Thank you!

Discussion closed by moderator

if the diameter is the same and the angle is 90, then the end of the pipe is simply cut in the form of /, and the pipe into which you are welding is cut in the form of /. the angle between the lines is 90 degrees. if the angle between the pipes is not 90, then tricky curves begin

in. I'll try that. Thank you!

It depends on what you're cooking. In shipbuilding, when railings are boiled, the horizontal pipes are simply flattened a little at the ends with a sledgehammer.

There is software, you enter your parameters - any connection at any angle, with a shift from the axis, etc., the program prints a template on a 1:1 scale, you cut it with scissors, wrap the pipe and mark the cutting line with chalk. The program is called Plate “n” Sheet Development. There are corrected ones on the internet.

grandiose! Sorry I can’t download from my work. Damn bastard admins!

buy a welded tee. it will be faster and more beautiful. )

in! Or maybe it’s really possible to find out where the mufflers are sculpted and buy a 90 degree “turn” of the required diameter from them and weld it in? culturally it will work out very well.

a little bit different. I would not like the footrest pipe to have thickenings

Well, why - maybe the diameters will match perfectly? Just put something inside for rigidity and file down the seam. eh - as they say, if I had the money, I would run into the “tuning studio” and do it.

if the tee is the same diameter as the pipe, and clean the joints.

such things are done beautifully and correctly at any angle, with a core drill for metal. but they are expensive.

Sincerely.

to catch up - link to the calculator https://snip.awardspace.com/

By the way, what is “it” called? I've never seen it for sale. I guess I really wasn't looking in the right place.

Re: comrades! and how to weld two pipes at 90 degrees > the diameter is the same (something about 70 mm). That is, the task is to connect the end of one pipe to the surface of another. My meager imagination suggests that it is possible, for example, to give a “concavity” to the end. How? Bulgarian? +

++ Depending on what you have - even a file;)

Or cut the surface of the second pipe so that the end of the second one goes a little deeper into it. +

++ This is possible. It depends on the connection requirements.

the running boards on the mega-vnidarozhneg i.e. I’m not going to carry them with a crane from the swamp, but I want to stand on them with all my heart. and you can even jump, or what a rotten basin if you catch it with the barrel, the darning did not reach the threshold and the door with its rot

Well then, just use a grinder to adjust the end of the pipe without much ado, scald it and clean it.

How to weld a gate

Buba wrote. I’m a beginner welder, and soon I’ll have some pretty important work ahead; I’ll need to weld a gate. This is my first big project.

In general, the progress of the work is clear, but I would like to clarify something. The gate consists of a frame made from an angle, the leaf is corrugated sheeting, and the corrugated board is fastened to the frame with rivets. Pillars - pipe 90 -100 mm.

maybe square. The width of the doors is 120-140 cm.

(we'll figure it out on the spot). I plan to weld the frame on a horizontal wooden board, then attach it to the pillars and the pillars are poured in place. Questions have arisen: which corner is better to choose? (planned for 30). What is the best way to join overlapped corners at 90 degrees. or right next to 45 degrees.

Do I need to weld the diagonal or is it enough to reinforce the corners with triangular overlays? How to properly weld a frame so that it doesn’t move?

Greetings! If you haven't cooked it yet, I'll add it. It is best to cook on two sawhorses, such as construction ones.

align them, lay down the two long sides, set the required distance between them, then step aside and check the parallelism.

This is done simply, sitting down at the level of the corner, look over it at the second corner, both should be parallel, in which case you make a “pad” under one of the corners.

Grab the top and bottom jumpers, check the diagonals, they should naturally be equal; if they deviate, lightly hit them with a hammer in the horizontal plane and straighten them out.

Make the fastening tacks a little further than those on which you assembled, check the diagonal again, just in case. You start cooking, I also cook diagonally, i.e.

Having cooked one side, I go to the diagonally opposite corner and cook it. Then.

diagonals from twisting will not help, that’s for sure, but the longitudinal rigidity should be enough, how much is the height? It’s better to take a corner 40, or an edge 35, or a professional pipe 20*40.

The advantage of a professional pipe is its rigidity, but the wall thickness is not great for a beginner. When calculating the sides, you need to take into account the thickness of the material, i.e.

The width is the same size, and the height is -2 times the thickness of the material (well, this is with strict parameters). If you cook from a corner, you can simply cut one shelf to the width of the corner.

And when installing, you can also cheat, grab both halves previously laid out on a horizontal surface with the required gap, it will look like one sash, and after hanging, cut the potholders, but in general you should look here

https://www.mastercity.ru/showthread.php?t=32409

Vladimir_Vas wrote. Cook at 45 degrees.

you'll be exhausted trying to catch the corners, you won't be able to cut everything straight

How to weld pipes at right angles

When installing metal structures, from the frame of a children's swing to a heating system, you almost always have to deal with welding. This process is much more complicated than it seems at first glance, and much more responsible: the reliability and durability of the product literally depends on the quality of the seam.

Welding: varieties and features

In its most general form, it means joining two pieces of the same or different materials by forming a permanent connection. There are quite a few methods for such connection. There are two main groups:

• under pressure - for example, ultrasonic, cold, press;
• fusion welding is a thermal method that involves heating the joined fragments.

Fusion joining is divided into two types:

• electric arc - manual, submerged arc, argon and so on. The edges of pipeline sections are melted under the influence of an arc charge;
• gas - the familiar acetylene one. In this case, the edges of the connected pipes are heated with an oxygen gas flame, joined, and the gap is filled with the material of the molten rod.

The quality of such a seam is lower than that produced by the electric arc method. But the latter is not applicable to pipelines with thin walls - up to 3.5 mm.

The method provides a reliable, strong connection, but one-piece. If we are talking about metal products, then this is an advantage.

Types of connections

Depending on the purpose of the pipeline, thickness and diameter, different joining methods are used. In general, three main groups are distinguished.

• Butt joint is considered the most durable. A transverse joint is used to weld the pipeline around the circumference, and a longitudinal joint is used to connect parts. Butt welding allows you to connect sections along an axis. Different seams are used: single for pipes with a diameter of up to 500 mm, and double for pipelines with a nominal diameter of more than 600 mm. The photo shows a butt joint.
• Angle welding - used to connect pipes at different angles: 90 degrees, 45 degrees, 20 degrees. The reliability of such a seam is somewhat lower.
• Lap joint - joining is used only to combine the pipeline with additional elements.

Right angle welding

Installing pipes at an angle of 90 degrees is not such a rarity, especially for a heating system. To get it when walking around rooms, for example, a special part is used - a 90-degree angle. In this case, the butt method is used for connection.

However, when installing metal frames and small-diameter pipes, other problems may arise.

Preparatory stage

• If installation of two elements is required, which together form a right angle, then preparation will consist of correctly cutting the pipeline at 45 degrees.
  This is easy to do: a regular rubber band is put on the pipe, fixed, its second edge is pulled along the pipe by 325 mm, and the resulting contour is outlined with chalk. The cut is obtained at exactly the right angle.

In all other cases, you will need to draw up a drawing and calculate the curve, along which you will then need to make a cut.

• The second common option: the pipe is connected by inserting into the second one at a right angle. In this case, two cuts are made at 90 degrees in the section with a grinder and the resulting wedge is cut out. Then, gradually cutting off, a round hole is formed. At the end of the perpendicular fragment, a section is removed at the same angle. Gaps are inevitable, so further welding will be carried out in several stages.

Measurements and drawing

First of all, the length of the kitchen walls, as well as the corners of the room, are measured. The dimensions of all sofas are determined. The standard parameters look like this:

1. Seat height – 40-50 cm.
2. The depth is about 50-70 cm, so that it is comfortable to sit at the table and your feet do not rest against it.
3. The height of the entire structure including the backrest can reach 95 cm, but this is not the limit.

The easiest way is to use ready-made drawings and diagrams, especially for people who are making furniture for the first time. You just need to choose a plan that matches the desired size. If you adapt the model you like to individual parameters, it’s easy to make a mistake, and you’ll have to spend a lot of time on alterations. The diagram should reflect all the design features: the presence of a bed, drawers and the nuances of their opening, the structure and location of the folding mechanism. It is important to be able to clearly evaluate the correctness of drawings, and not to take on the first example found on the Internet.

Measure the length of the walls and corners of the kitchen

Standard kitchen corner parameters