Creating a milling and copying machine at home

Milling is a type of mechanical processing of materials using a special cutting tool - a milling cutter. The method allows you to obtain a high level of accuracy and the degree of roughness of the processed surface. In addition, it is distinguished by significant productivity.

Surface processing is carried out by the method of up milling, when the rotation of the cutting tool is opposite to the direction of feed, and by down milling - a method in which the direction of rotation of the cutter and feed are identical. By using cutters with cutting edges made from modern super-hard materials, the grinding operation can be replaced.

Milling equipment is divided into universal and specialized. In the first case, these are general-purpose machines for performing longitudinal and continuous milling, with or without tools mounted on a console. The second contains a mechanism for cutting threads, splines, making gears and keyways, and pattern milling.

In production, there is often a need to produce several pieces, a batch, or even a series of identical parts. For this purpose, milling equipment equipped with a pantograph is used.

In the household, the functions of a milling machine are usually performed by a manual milling machine. To perform the maximum range of work, the milling cutter is equipped with a whole set of accessories. The main equipment is supplied with the equipment, additional equipment can be purchased or manufactured independently. These are a variety of stops, clamps, templates. But you can go even further and make a copier for milling volumetric parts.

Homemade pantograph - how to make a pantograph with your own hands

A pantograph is a tool with which you can redraw a plan or map, drawing or drawing, etc. with great accuracy and to the desired scale (Fig. 1).
Such a homemade pantograph is of interest to specialists of many professions - architects, artists, engineers, inventors, innovators.

The pantograph uses the principle of a parallelogram mechanism, which makes it possible for two points of the mechanism to perform absolutely identical movements with one rigidly fixed end. Depending on the size of the selected shoulder, the image scale can be different and change in the desired direction. The scale is fixed and is set according to marks with corresponding digital markings.

Milling and copying equipment: design

The typical design of a copy-milling machine is completely simple. It consists of a work table and a guide system with clamps for attaching the router and copier.

Making a universal copy-milling machine at home is quite difficult, and there is no great need for it. For home use, equipment with highly specialized specialization is usually created.

How to make a pantograph - a homemade pantograph with your own hands

Anyone can make a pantograph of sufficiently high quality with their own hands, provided that the exact dimensions of all parts are observed (Fig. 2).

The design of a homemade pantograph, which we would like to bring to your attention, consists of four lever-rulers (three long and one short), in which holes are drilled in a certain order to secure the axes. Brass bushings are inserted into the holes of the rulers.

The axes of the pantograph mechanism are of different designs; the two central axes are a pin with a cap. The axes for attaching the lead (copier) and the tracking rod are made like a device for clamping the lead in the leg of the compass. It is advisable to use a plastic tip as a tracking rod. This tip does not spoil the original and provides good glide. One axis (extreme) with a heel on which the pantograph mechanism rests, and, finally, an axis that secures the entire mechanism to the base boss.

All axes have an annular groove in the upper part, which serves to secure a wire pin-clamp.

The boss is metal. Three stings (gramophone needles) are embedded into the boss from below, making it easy to fix the base on the drawing board.

Rulers are best made of plastic, for example, plexiglass (plexiglass), 5 mm thick. The most important operation is marking and drilling holes in the rulers, so it must be treated with special attention. To ensure high accuracy and alignment of the holes, it is enough to make markings on one ruler, put all the rulers in a bag and drill holes in all the rulers along the marked ruler in one step. Try to make the diameter of the holes such that the bushings fit into them tightly, with a slight interference fit.

The bushings are machined from brass according to the dimensions given in Fig. 2. Axles - steel. The length of the axles is directly dependent on the length of the bushing. Bend wire pins-clamps from steel wire with a diameter of 1.2-1.5 mm.

The base boss can be made from an aluminum block 39 mm thick. In the lower part of the boss, punch three needles into the blind holes (you can use a gramophone), so that their points protrude 2-3 mm.

Manufacturing of copy milling machine: materials

To create a duplicate carver at home with your own hands, you should draw a basic sketch, which will become a guide to further actions. In addition, you need to stock up on some materials. This:

1. Knee cemented polished shaft Ø 16 mm.
2. Linear bearings in the amount of 2 pcs.
3. Rail guides 900 mm long – 2 pcs. For ease of fastening, their length is taken as a multiple of 150.
4. Split linear bearings in the amount of 4 pcs. It is advisable to use bearings with a clamping screw to adjust the tightness of the fit on the guide.
5. Profile pipe 30×60 with a wall thickness of up to 3 mm.
6. Metal plate 900 mm long and 100 mm wide.
7. End posts in the amount of 2 pcs.
8. Moving element in the form of a plate – 1 pc.
9. Rocker arm for attaching the copier and router – 2 pcs. The length is chosen arbitrarily.
10. Movable couplings – 2 pcs.
11. Profile pipe 40×40 with a wall thickness of up to 3 mm.
12. Crown clutch for turning the part and template.

Specification of parts for a homemade pantograph

When all the parts are ready, assemble the pantograph mechanism. When assembling and adjusting parts, try to ensure ease of movement of all links of the mechanism, for which their rubbing surfaces can be slightly lubricated.

The final step in making a homemade pantograph with your own hands is to mark the holes on a ruler, according to which it will be easy to select the scale of enlargement (reduction) of the copy.

Be sure to check the correspondence of the markings with the resulting dimensions experimentally.

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CNC on muscular traction (3D Pantograph)

In the modern world, in the community of people who love to do things with their own hands and who do not shy away from technology, such a thing as a desktop CNC machine is extremely popular. Although these devices have become quite accessible, they still remain expensive. The cheapest Chinese option today will cost you 700-800 US money and it will probably not work right out of the box, but will require some effort to bring it to fruition. Making a CNC machine yourself can be cheaper, but usually requires access to a variety of woodworking and metalworking equipment and the ability to use it to produce parts with high precision.

But people are always looking for ways to achieve their goals using affordable means. In some tasks for CNC machines, namely when you need to repeat the same part many times, a pantograph, invented back in 1603 by Christoph Scheiner, can help - a device for copying maps, plans and other vector drawings.

A classic pantograph consists of two vertices, one of which has a pointer handle, which is used to trace the pattern being copied. The second contains a writing instrument, which, through a system of levers and hinges, repeats the movements of the first vertex, drawing a copy on the second sheet. Often, pantographs have the function of scaling the original image.

A simple and brilliant idea. Now, how to copy a certain volumetric object? To do this, we need to add a Z-coordinate connection to the pantograph and replace the pencil with a drill, or better yet, a high-speed spindle, and we will get a 3D pantograph.

Machines for copying wooden products on this principle are produced, for example, by the American company Gemini, but their prices are such that for this money you can buy a good CNC machine from China. Therefore, it is more interesting what the DIY community has achieved in this area.

Frank Ford makes acoustic guitars. At the same time, he has to make many identical guitar parts, such as string holders. Tired of doing it manually, but not wanting to bother with buying and setting up a CNC, he made a duplicator for himself. Because High copying accuracy was important to him; his instrument was made entirely of metal. The probe used to remove the mold and the spindle are fixed on a common frame, which moves only along the Z axis. Movement along the X and Y axes is carried out using a table on which the workpieces are fixed. Another original thing in its design is that it uses a pneumatic drive operating at 40,000 rpm as a spindle.

However, although this is a homemade, it is still an expensive version of the 3D pantograph. There are also cheaper ones.

For example, Adran, dreaming of his own CNC machine, but not having the funds for it. I built myself a duplicator from a Dremel drill, three metal guides and standard-sized wooden strips from the store. A regular screwdriver is used as a probe. Its design can be easily repeated, because he posted the drawings and all the manufacturing stages on the Instructables website.

Making a copy-milling machine: tools

After this, you need to prepare a tool that will definitely be useful for assembling the machine structure. This:

• angle grinder;
• cutting and cleaning disc;
• welding machine;
• welding mask;
• petal disc or brush;
• self-tapping screws for fastening rail guides and moving elements;
• electric drill;
• screwdriver;
• measuring instruments: tape measure, caliper;
• center punch and scriber.

Homemade pantograph

Quite often it is necessary to enlarge (or reduce) some drawing, drawing or diagram several times. For example, you liked the burning patterns in the magazine. But in the magazine they are usually given in a reduced form, so you have to enlarge them to the required size yourself, either manually using the “cell method” or using instruments: an episcope or a pantograph.

Making an episcope yourself has already been discussed on the website. Now let's look at the pantograph.

Pantograph (the name comes from two Greek words (pantos) - everything and qrapho - I write) - a device in the form of a sliding articulated parallelogram for redrawing pictures, drawings, diagrams in a different (increased or reduced scale). The main advantages of this device are the simplicity of the design and the fairly high “accuracy” of the copied image. Unfortunately, the pantograph has not yet found due recognition among amateur artists and other handy admirers of decorative and applied arts.

It is now very difficult to find commercially produced pantographs on sale. In addition, the range of such pantographs is relatively small, and they are made of metal, which does not make the device convenient enough. So God himself ordered to make for himself a pantograph with long wooden rulers.

As already mentioned, the pantograph has the form of a sliding parallelogram and consists of four wooden planks (rulers), fastened together using hinges so that the rulers can move and move apart like an accordion (Fig. 1). As can be seen from the figure, at the ends of the pantograph bars there is a needle (pole), a mark (pin) and a pencil. When working, the needle is fixed at some point on the table, the mark is drawn along a given contour, and a pencil draws a copy of this contour, but on a given scale.

Rice. 1. General view of the pantograph: 1 – needle; 2 – spire; 3 – pencil

First of all, for the pantograph it is necessary to make four rulers 630 mm long, 15 mm wide and 4 mm thick. It is better to cut such rulers from thin slats, but you can also cut them from plywood. On all rulers, the working part is first marked, for which 15 mm are set aside from the ends of the ruler. Thus, there will be a distance of 600 mm between the marks, which will be the working part of the ruler. We will denote the beginning of the working part of the ruler by the letter N, and the end by the letter K. Of course, we choose the beginning and end of the working part arbitrarily.

Next, we will mark on the working part of each ruler the centers of the holes that we will need when adjusting the pantograph to one or another magnification. Let's assume that for our work we need to enlarge the original by 1.25; 1.5; 2; 3; 4; 5; 6 and 7 times. And to get, for example, the center of a hole with a magnification factor of 1.25, you need to divide the length of the working part by 1.25 and put the resulting size on a ruler, taking point H as the reference point. That is, the center of the desired hole will be at a distance of 480 mm from the beginning of the working part. In the same way, from point H, we determine the distance of the centers of the holes to increase the original by 1.25; 2; 3 times and so on (Fig. 2). Having marked the position of the centers on the rulers, at each mark we write a number that will correspond to the degree of magnification of the drawing.

Rice. 2. Location on the ruler of the centers of the holes, with the help of which one or another magnification of the pantograph is ensured (numbers on the rulers are magnification factors)

Using the resulting markings, we drill holes in the rulers for the bolts that are supposed to connect the rulers. Bolts with M3 or M4 threads are most suitable for these purposes; accordingly, holes for them are needed with a diameter of 3 or 4 mm. But we make the outer holes at points H and K with a diameter of 5.6 mm, that is, the diameter of the shells from a small-caliber rifle, which we will use to attach a needle, a mark and a pencil to them. Next, using sleeves, we hinge the rulers in pairs, aligning the end of one ruler with the beginning of the other (Fig. 3, a), after which we flare the open ends of the sleeves. All that remains is to select the magnification factor and connect the pairs of rulers, installing the bolts in the holes with the required index. Thus, the pantograph shown in Fig. 3, b, ready to enlarge the original 4 times.

Rice. 3. This is how the pantograph is assembled: a – two pairs of rulers; b – the pantograph is ready for work (magnification factor – 4); P, O and P – places for attaching a needle, pin and pencil, respectively

At point P (Fig. 3, b) there is a pantograph pole (needle), at point O (the point where the pair of rulers are hinged) there is a marker, at point P there is a pencil. If the ends of the rulers were connected using sleeves, attaching a needle, a mark and a pencil to the pantograph is very simple. To install the needle, you need to tightly insert a stick (wooden plug) into the appropriate sleeve, and then hammer a piece of a thick needle into the center of which with the blunt end. But you can fix this fragment of a needle in a sleeve by pouring molten tin or lead into it.

A pointed stick is suitable as a marker; it is not at all difficult to secure it in the desired sleeve. The end of the stick should protrude from the sleeve by about 1 cm. If a long bolt is used instead of the sleeve, it is oriented with the head up, secured with a nut, and the end is sharpened with a file. Installing a pencil into the sleeve is also not a problem.

We emphasize once again that when making a pantograph, precise marking of the hole is necessary, as well as full correspondence of the diameter of the hole in the ruler to the diameter of the bolt. Only then can a pantograph be used to achieve sufficient accuracy even when copying very complex designs.

How do they work with a pantograph? First of all, the pole (needle) of the pantograph is attached to a certain point on the table. The drawing from which you want to make a copy is placed where the spire is located, and a blank sheet of paper is under the pencil. Next, we draw the pin along all the lines of the drawing, while the pencil automatically draws an enlarged drawing on the paper. And if you need to depict the drawing in a reduced form, you will have to use a pin and a pencil in places, which is not at all difficult if you have sleeves.

Usually, when working with a pantograph, the hand of the artist guides the pin along the lines of the pattern. In this case, you will have to attach a weight (nut, lead plate) to the ruler next to the pencil so that the pencil is pressed against the paper. But you can copy in another way. Namely, move your hand not with a pin, but with a pencil, while ensuring that the marker moves correctly along the lines of the pattern. In this case, the weight on the ruler, of course, is not needed.

Operation and repair

As a rule, pantographs work properly for the first six months. After this period, the following problems are possible:

• creaking or crackling. Treated by lubricating the angle mechanism;
• difficult or asynchronous opening. If you pull the frame from one side, there will be a skew with a displacement of the running axle. Regular lubrication will not help; you need to straighten and level the entire frame;
• with mechanical options, the hanger stops returning to the top position or does so slowly. Most likely the spring has stretched, which now prevents the frame from moving upward.
• the top bar is not fully in position. The cause may be a spring or a broken angle mechanism. Also, a foreign object can become an obstacle on the way up;
• In automatic pantographs, the mechanism may jam, as a result of which the lowering occurs jerkily or the bar randomly rises up.

Regardless of the design, problems most often lie in the drive mechanism. The frames and slats are quite strong and do not pose a high risk of breakage.

If the structure does not lower or is tight, it is better to check the mechanism rather than pull by force, as you can knock over the cabinet or simply tear out the fasteners and damage the furniture.

Now you know everything about furniture pantographs and can choose and install this mechanism in your closet yourself. Let's summarize the article:

• pantograph simplifies access to the upper sections of the cabinet;
• There are mechanical and electrical models;
• You can install the device yourself;
• Convenience and ergonomics are compensated by the high price.

An ingenious engineering design solved the problem of operating tall wardrobes without mezzanines. It is very easy to get any item from your wardrobe if you have a pantograph. Take advantage of modern solutions.

Source: made-box.ru

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DIY pantograph simple designLink to main publication

Making a pantograph

A milling cutter equipped with a pantograph allows you to repeat parallel lines of the workpiece during work. This procedure facilitates the production of shaped parts, various ornaments and patterns. In addition, using a pantograph you can make various inscriptions on metal and wooden plates.

It’s not difficult to make a homemade pantograph; you just need 4 ruler levers. Three such levers should be long, and one should be short. In addition, you will need to make several holes in them to mount the axles.

Copier milling.

The axles will be used to install the mechanism and attach the rod. The axial mechanism is a pin with a cap at the end. The copying part should resemble a compass element in which the stylus is attached. Such a rod part can be made from the tip of a plastic knitting needle. Such a tip will glide gently during operation and will not damage the original part.

You will also need an axis on which the entire mechanical part of the device will rest. It must be equipped with a heel that acts as a stop. The last or outer guide will act as a fastener for the entire structure using a special boss.

Such a boss should be made of an aluminum cylinder. In its lower part you need to attach 3 stings, which can be made from small furniture nails. These nails will be used to secure the base to the plate being processed.

The operating principle of a pantograph device for redrawing plans and drawings

Let's look carefully around us and we will see how many identical objects there are around. They seem similar to each other, but differ in size, color...

Such similarity is called similarity, i.e. a concept that characterizes the same shape of objects, regardless of their size. There are a great many similar figures around us. Similarity surrounds us. Here are some examples from our life.

Many drawings in children's coloring books are similar to each other.

In order to draw them, you and I can use a device called a pantograph.

A milling cutter equipped with a pantograph allows you to repeat parallel lines of the workpiece during work.

This procedure facilitates the production of shaped parts, various ornaments and patterns.

In addition, using a pantograph you can make various inscriptions on metal and wooden plates.

It’s not difficult to make a homemade pantograph; you just need 4 ruler levers. Three such levers should be long, and one should be short. In addition, you will need to make several holes in them to mount the axles.

The axles will be used to install the mechanism and attach the rod. The axial mechanism is a pin with a cap at the end.

The copying part should resemble a compass element in which the stylus is attached. Such a rod part can be made from the tip of a plastic knitting needle.

Such a tip will glide gently during operation and will not damage the original part.

You will also need an axis on which the entire mechanical part of the device will rest. It must be equipped with a heel that acts as a stop. The last or outer guide will act as a fastener for the entire structure using a special boss.

Such a boss should be made of an aluminum cylinder. In its lower part you need to attach 3 stings, which can be made from small furniture nails. These nails will be used to secure the base to the plate being processed.

Completion of work

The next step is to assemble the copying mechanism for the router. To do this, you need to prepare the following components:

• 4 rulers;
• 8 brass bushings.

Rulers should be made of plexiglass or plastic, their thickness should be 4-5 mm. You can also use plexiglass as a material for making rulers.

Next, the marking of these linear parts is carried out.

This process should be approached very carefully, since the slightest error in dimensions can lead to incorrect operation of the pantograph.

Holes are drilled on the marked markings. In this case, their alignment must be maintained. To achieve this, you need to put all the rulers together and drill holes in them at the same time.

Then you need to insert brass bushings into the prepared holes. When installing them, a slight tension should be observed: this will help the bushings to stay more tightly in the rulers.

In order to secure the axial parts in the bushings, you need to make special clamps.

They can be made from hardened steel wire, the diameter of which should be 1-1.5 mm.

Then the boss is assembled. Blind holes are made in its lower part, which can be punched with a core. The nails must be installed in such a way that they protrude from the body of the boss by 2-3 mm.

Having prepared all the necessary parts of the pantograph, they are assembled.

During this process, you need to ensure that all moving parts move smoothly and easily.

In this case, all prepared holes should be marked. According to this marking, you can scale the manufactured copy of the part.

moiinstrumenty.ru

Make it for school

Pantograph

This simple drawing device can be used to redraw plans, drawings, geographical maps or decorative elements, increasing or decreasing their scale by 1.5, 2 and 3 times.

The device is a parallelogram formed by four planks - two long and two short, made of well-planed hardwood (oak, beech or birch).

The planks are connected to each other with screws and nuts. Pay attention to the screw (view B) - it is of an unusual type.

If the device is used to obtain a copy on an enlarged scale, a guide pin is fixed in node B - it can be a blunt nail clamped into a collet pencil, and a regular pencil, felt-tip pen or ballpoint pen is fixed in node B.

By tracing the lines of the original with a pin, we will obtain a copy of the specified magnification scale on paper. To obtain a copy in a reduced form, the guide pin and the writing instrument are swapped.

To select the scale, holes are provided in the long and short bars and a digital designation is entered, the ratio of reduction or increase.

Clamping pins are most easily made from a piece of rubber in the form of flat washers. The holes in the washers should be cut so that the collet pencil and writing instrument fit tightly into it.

A clamp is provided to secure the device to the workbench. It must be made from a steel plate 1.5 mm thick.

To prevent the clamp from scratching the table top, cut a 2 mm thick rubber gasket under it. There is a hole on the upper plane of the clamp into which the pantograph axis is inserted.

As you can see, there is no bearing here. Therefore, to reduce friction between parts, install washers.

A. SALNIKOV

In the figure, the numbers indicate: 1 - clamp, 2 - rubber gasket, 3 - table cover, 4 - long strap, 5 - short strip and 6 - rubber clamps.

12

zhurnalko.net

What is copy-milling equipment

This equipment is unique because... with its relatively simple design, it is capable of copying complex products, even fine handmade ones.

In fact, the unit was designed for milling curved elements:

1. This is done by copying using templates. They allow you to perform the operation as accurately as possible, without the use of manual work. This property of the unit guarantees that the manufactured elements will be identical in size and shape.
2. You can use one sample for all blanks or use ready-made products as a template.
3. When such parameters are not enough, it is possible to significantly increase the accuracy of the machine.

Note! The instructions recommend equipping it with a special copying device for this purpose. It is called a “pantograph” and serves to accurately communicate the movement of the copying unit (head) to the main device that processes the part.

When a template has many fine, elegant details, a pantograph machine is indispensable.

Unit design

Copy-milling units make it possible to process reliefs or profiles:

1. The workpieces are processed with a special tool - a milling cutter made of hard alloys.
2. It repeats in full the movements of the copier, which reproduces the outlines of the template.
3. The copier is equipped with an electronic or mechanical connection that has a tracking system and is responsible for the trajectory of the tool.
4. The copier can be a flat or three-dimensional sample, as well as a contour diagram or a reference model.
5. In this case, a special probe registers the contours of the part. This data is then reported to the tool.
6. In the most modern machines, the probe is replaced by a photocell, which has increased accuracy.

Note! The pantograph plays a vital role in the described units. It is equipped with a special guide “finger”.

It moves along the copier, while determining the geometric parameters of the sample with maximum accuracy. The final size of the resulting copy depends on the proportions of the pantograph’s “shoulders.”

Duplicarver machine

The most popular brand of copy milling machines are the Duplicarver units:

1. Its cutting tool is a cutter made of hard alloys, which reproduces the contour or surface of the copier on the workpiece.
2. It has a mechanical, hydraulic or pneumatic connection with a tracking system that determines the direction of movement of the cutter. The cutter acts on the reinforcing device and affects the actuator.
3. The copier can be a flat or spatial template, a contour diagram, or a reference sample. The copying device can be a finger, a photocell, a probe or a roller. This unit and the workpiece are placed on a rotating work table.
4. The executive body of the unit can be a solenoid, differential, screw, electromagnetic clutch, spool. The amplification units use a hydraulic, electro-optical or electromagnetic relay.
5. The speed of movement of the tracking device determines the level of accuracy of the profile (up to 0.02 mm), as well as the degree of roughness of the part.

1. The machine is driven by an electric motor and a hydraulic power cylinder.
2. The pantograph, which makes it possible to repeat products on a given scale, has a tool spindle and an axis of rotation, as well as a guide pin. It is placed on an axis and moves along the copier.
3. During this movement, the spindle on the part describes the desired geometric configuration. The pantograph, thanks to the proportion of its shoulders, determines the scale of copying.

What is copy-milling equipment

The pantograph is the most important element of the machine.

This equipment is unique because... with its relatively simple design, it is capable of copying complex products, even fine handmade ones.

In fact, the unit was designed for milling curved elements:

1. This is done by copying using templates. They allow you to perform the operation as accurately as possible, without the use of manual work. This property of the unit guarantees that the manufactured elements will be identical in size and shape.
2. You can use one sample for all blanks or use ready-made products as a template.
3. When such parameters are not enough, it is possible to significantly increase the accuracy of the machine.

Note! The instructions recommend equipping it with a special copying device for this purpose.

It is called a “pantograph” and serves to accurately communicate the movement of the copying unit (head) to the main device that processes the part.

When a template has many fine, elegant details, a pantograph machine is indispensable.

Types of copy-milling devices

Stationary automatic unit.

At the moment, manufacturers produce copy-milling units that differ in many characteristics. Accordingly, the price of the equipment is different.

The following machines are produced according to the type of drive:

• with mechanized feed;
• photocopying;
• with hydraulic feed;
• electrified.

Based on the level of functionality and equipment, the following are distinguished:

• copying units with a two- or three-dimensional pantograph;
• universal equipment with a pantograph located vertically on a rotating arm;
• single- and multi-spindle devices with a rectangular or round work table.

Manual machine.

The machines also differ in size and degree of automation:

1. The cheapest is a desktop-type manual mini machine with a mechanical clamp.
2. A full-fledged automated machine is more functional. It is equipped with a pneumatic clamp.
3. The stationary unit is the most versatile. It has full automation, pneumatic clamping and a three-spindle attachment.

It should be noted that all of these devices can be equipped with computer numerical control (CNC).

Features of the units

Below are the categories of copy-milling devices, varying in the pressing of the part and the degree of automation:

1. A manual or tabletop unit with mechanical pressing of the profile makes it possible to make holes of various shapes using a template.
2. The automatic analogue with pneumatic clamping is capable of processing large parts. Can be equipped with CNC.
3. Automatic device with pneumatic pressing of profiles, equipped with a three-spindle attachment. The latter makes it possible to drill triple holes. Other machines do not have this capability. Can also be equipped with CNC.

Completion of work

The next step is to assemble the copying mechanism for the router. To do this, you need to prepare the following components:

• 4 rulers;
• 8 brass bushings.

Rulers should be made of plexiglass or plastic, their thickness should be 4-5 mm. You can also use plexiglass as a material for making rulers. Next, the marking of these linear parts is carried out. This process should be approached very carefully, since the slightest error in dimensions can lead to incorrect operation of the pantograph.

Holes are drilled on the marked markings. In this case, their alignment must be maintained. To achieve this, you need to put all the rulers together and drill holes in them at the same time.

Milling and copying equipment: areas of application

Milling copying machines can process not only flat, but also three-dimensional parts. With their help, along with simple milling operations, you can perform engraving, repeat drawings, patterns and inscriptions. The design of the machine is quite simple, and any craftsman can make it.

Copy-milling machines allow you to process not only wooden parts, but also cast iron, steel and plastic workpieces, as well as products made of non-ferrous metals. This is ensured by high-quality tools made of high-speed steel and hard alloys. The copying machine allows you to mill not only straight, but also curved surfaces. In this case, the details are completely identical.

Pantograph for router

Copying device for a manual router based on a pantograph.

What is a pantograph we wrote here->

The kinematic diagram is simple and understandable, but from these pictures it is clear that such a device is not difficult to make yourself in a day:

this is what it looks like from the front

This is what the copier looks like from above, with the router removed.

Copier at the bottom. The hinge with which the pantograph is attached to the table is visible, which makes it suitable for copying three-dimensional objects.

A few more photos to complete the picture:

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How we build a house

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Milling and copying equipment: operating principle

The operating principle of such a device is to clearly transmit the movements of the copy head through the holder profile to the cutting tool.

It is quite difficult to purchase a copy milling machine, so craftsmen make it with their own hands from scrap materials. Everything happens by trial and error. Therefore, experts advise first assembling a duplicate carver, and only then introducing it into mass production. As a rule, this stage is preceded by more than one serious adjustment and alteration.