Homemade tire foot. DIY tire changing machine. Why is it so important to monitor the condition of your car wheels?

How much trouble the operation of dismantling and installing tires on passenger car wheels causes for beginners (and not only) car enthusiasts! Bent rims, torn tire beads, tubes bitten by tire mounts, and even wounded fingers are frequent accompaniments of this work. Therefore, many car owners prefer to go to a car service center and entrust it to specialists, which has its well-known negative sides.

In addition, as someone subtly noted: tire punctures happen more often the further you are from a car service center. Taking into account all of the above, I set myself the task: to develop a simple and small-sized device that works in conjunction with a jack (available with any car) and facilitates the beading and beading of tires. Based on reviews from fellow car enthusiasts who had the chance to use this manufactured device, and based on personal experience, I can say that the problem was solved quite successfully.

The device consists of three parts (assembly units) having a very simple design. They can be made by a DIY car enthusiast with basic metalworking skills. The design and operating principle of the device are clear from photographs and drawings. The plank is a steel plate with dimensions of 140x36x4 mm. Three threaded (M8) pins are welded to it, perpendicular to its plane: one in the middle and two at the ends.

The outermost mounting pins are the same - simple threaded rods. The distance between them on the bar corresponds to the diameter of the circle along which the centers of the mounting holes of the car wheel disk are located (for Zhiguli - 100 mm). The central pin is stepped: at the bottom there is a collar-heel, above there is a thickened part, at the top there is a rod-axis with a thread at the end.

The collar is used for better stability, the thick part is used to support the rod at the height of the wheel rim, the rod-axle is used to fix one of the ends of the rod to the rod. Fastening the pins to the plate - in any available way: on a thread with lock nuts, riveting in square holes, etc., as long as the pins do not fly out or turn.

I have these parts inserted into round holes with a diameter of 8 mm in the plate and welded to it from below. In order to speed up the installation of the device on the wheel, appropriate wing nuts were selected for the pins (if there are none, then you can get by with ordinary ones). The rod is made of steel rod with a diameter of 16 mm. One end of it is sharpened to the profile of the mounting blade and well polished. Nearby, behind the profile surface and in its plane, a hole with a diameter of 9 mm was drilled in the rod.

The other end is bent in a heated state with a hook and here, not far from the end, the same hole is also drilled, only its axis is perpendicular to the axis of the hole at the other end of the rod. The cable is steel. Its diameter is selected so that it “doubly” easily passes through the lower hole in the heel support and in the longitudinal groove of the jack stand, into which it is inserted for work. The cable is tied into a ring.

When working, it is better to leave the place of the tie outside the “pulling” zone - throw it on a support (wheel wrench) or on the jack bracket. The tire removal device operates as follows. First, a strip is secured to the wheel rim using outer pins and wing nuts. Then the straight end of the rod is inserted under the bead of the tire (like a mounting paddle), and its curved end is put on the central pin of the bar and secured with a wing nut.

Next, a “balloon” wrench is inserted into one of the windows closest to the bar in the wheel disk (head up) and the lower outlet, the loop of the cable ring, is placed on it. Its other outlet, previously passed under the bar and into the heel hole, is placed on the jack bracket. After this, the jack is installed on the rod, and its handle rotates “ascending”, i.e. clockwise.

In this case, the cable is “selected” and moves the rod with the jack to the place where the lower loop of the cable is attached (to the head of the wheelbrace), and the straight end of the rod brings the tire bead to the wheel rim. Then the wheel key is moved to another window and the operation continues. When replacing a tire, its second bead is brought out in a similar way to the same side of the disk.

The force on the jack handle when performing this work is approximately the same as when lifting a car. To mount the tire on the wheel, the position of the rod changes. Now its curved end is inserted between the rim and the tire bead, and the straight end is attached to the central rod of the bar. The positions of the key, cable and jack remain the same as when removing the tire.

The device is designed for the jack of Zhiguli type cars, but by adjusting certain dimensions of the parts it can be made for other jacks of various brands of cars. The use of the device is especially effective when mounting and dismantling tires with hard sides.

But the most important thing is that not only the wheels and tires, but also your hands remain intact. The reliability of the device is ensured by the simplicity of its design. The weight of the device (without standard equipment) is a little more than half a kilogram; and it fits in a tool bag along with a set of tools.

How to repair a wheel on the road

  • First you need to remove the wheel and clean it of dirt.
  • Bleed the air from the wheel and place it with the nipple up.
  • Thread the tow rope through the hole on the disc.
  • Place the jack on the side of the tire, close to the rim. If there is a chamber in the rubber, then you need to be more careful with the fitting.
  • After this, throw the cable over the bracket and fix its ends to each other.
  • The jack handle must be rotated so that the cable rises up, and the base resting on the tire moves the seat ring down.
  • Once the tire is separated from the rim, you can perform the following operation.

Opinions of car owners on how to properly install wheels on a car

  1. Look for the arrow with the inscription “To position the wheels correctly, find the arrow, next to it the word “Rotation” will be written. This marking indicates the direction of rotation of the car wheel. There’s nothing complicated, even a beginner can do it right.”
  2. Naturally, you need to look at the tires
    : “Don’t know how to position the rear wheel correctly? Examine the tires carefully. You will see an arrow and the words “front” and “rear”. If they are not there, then the tread pattern is asymmetrical. Then the eccentric will act as a guide. We position the car wheel in the same way as the rear one. Then the eccentrics will be on one side.”
  3. There should clearly be signs
    “To position the wheels correctly, you need to look at the arrow. When the tread pattern is asymmetrical, that is, the inner side is designed for dirt, then the pattern will be larger. The outer side is for asphalt, so the pattern will be small. In any case, we are studying the labeling.”

Homemade wheel beading machine

At first glance, the procedure for changing tires seems quite simple. To replace, you just need to remove the old tire from the rim and then install a new one. However, there is a small problem: dismantling will require a lot of effort. Of course, with the help of special tools provided in the travel kit, the procedure can be easier.

This set contains mounts of various shapes, as well as several special wedges. These tools make the process of beading the wheels easier, but it will still not be easy to do, especially if the tires have been in use for a long time. A tire changing machine will help solve this problem. In the photo above you can see what a drawing of a homemade tire changing machine looks like.

Components of a tire changing machine

Do-it-yourself manual tire changing machine is carried out using the following parts:

  • Frame. As a rule, these are two rectangular profile pipes arranged in parallel. Such elements are connected with a steel angle.
  • Vertical riser. It is attached to the frame. This riser performs several functions. In the first case, this is a lever mount intended for removing the tire, and in the second, it is a platform on which the disc is installed.
  • Pipe. A handle is welded to it. The pipe acts as a lever when removing tires.

To manufacture such equipment yourself, it is better to stock up on high-quality rolled metal in advance, since this tool is used under enormous loads. It is also important that you can quite easily make a homemade tire changing machine with your own hands. The drawings used for this are simple, and there are many benefits from such equipment.

Tips and tricks

For ease of operation, a hand-made tire changing machine must be heavy. In our case, using these pipes, the machine turned out to be lightweight. Therefore, to prevent it from twisting during operation, you need to attach it to the floor. If the floor is made of wood, then use ordinary wood screws. If it is concrete, then drill with a hammer drill, insert anchor bolts and tighten, or use self-tapping dowels (dowel nails).

To make work easier and to avoid damaging the rubber and rim of the disc, lubricate the tip of the lever, the seat of the tire and the rim of the disc with a thick soap solution. Before this, the wheel must be washed.

If the holes to secure the disk do not coincide with the holes of the welded hub or flange, you need to make an adapter so that you can install and dismantle disks of different diameters and fastenings.

Making a tire changing machine

This section of the article describes in detail how to make a tire changing machine with your own hands, or rather, a whole set.

It includes two devices - the tire changing machine itself and the bead beating device, which are combined into one. The lower part of the machine frame is H-shaped, dimensions - 90 x 60 cm. To manufacture it, you will need a steel pipe with a rectangular cross-section. A two-inch pipe with a round cross-section is welded onto the jumper 30 cm from the edge. The angle must be right. The height of the welded pipe is approximately 1.5 meters. The welding site is reinforced with gussets (right triangles 5 mm thick).

To secure the wheel, you need to put the old hub on the pipe and weld it. The hub is installed at a certain height, which is selected according to the person’s height. The wheel lying on it should be approximately waist-high. The pipe itself should be approximately 30 cm higher than the cylinder. A bracket needs to be welded a little lower than the hub to mount the bead breaker device. It can be made from a piece of steel sheet 4-5 mm thick. A hole is drilled in it for the bolt.

The lever used to remove and install tires is made of steel pipe. Its length is approximately 1.5 meters. To make tips for the lever you will need a steel rod with a diameter of 20 mm. The tips are made on a lathe or cut out with a grinder. This is how you make a homemade tire changing machine with your own hands.

How to remove tires using a tire changing machine

  • The wheel must be cleaned of dirt and the nipple removed.
  • To avoid scratching the disc, you can put a rubber mat under the wheel, under which you should slide the base of the bump stop.
  • The bump stop tab is then lifted and placed on the side of the tire.
  • A soap solution is used to lubricate the tire seat ring.
  • The lever is inserted into the bump stop tube.
  • By pressing the lever, the tire bead is knocked off first on one side, then on the other.
  • The wheel is put on the pipe and connected with bolts to the bolt hub.
  • Using a mounting tool, you need to lift the tire bead and insert the straight end of the lever under it.
  • A soap solution is also used to lubricate the tip, bead and rim edge.
  • You need to rest the lever on the pipe above the wheel and pull the lever towards you, thus removing the tire bead from the rim.
  • The camera is removed from the tire.
  • The tire is removed from the disk.

Tips and tricks

It is easier to put on the tire if the angle between the welded tip and the lever is smaller.

For ease of operation, a hand-made tire changing machine must be heavy. In our case, using these pipes, the machine turned out to be lightweight. Therefore, to prevent it from twisting during operation, you need to attach it to the floor. If the floor is made of wood, then use ordinary wood screws. If it is concrete, then drill with a hammer drill, insert anchor bolts and tighten, or use self-tapping dowels (dowel nails).

To make work easier and to avoid damaging the rubber and rim of the disc, lubricate the tip of the lever, the seat of the tire and the rim of the disc with a thick soap solution. Before this, the wheel must be washed.

If the holes to secure the disk do not coincide with the holes of the welded hub or flange, you need to make an adapter so that you can install and dismantle disks of different diameters and fastenings.

Tire mounting

A do-it-yourself tire changing machine can be made quite quickly. Tires are installed using it as follows:

  • Use a soapy solution to lubricate the tire bead, rim and arm mounting end.
  • The landing flange should be partially pushed onto the disk.
  • The tip of the lever is inserted between the disk and the landing board, and the ball of the tip should rest against the disk, and the section of the landing board should be located approximately in the middle of the tip.
  • Having placed the lever in the pipe above the wheel, you need to pull it towards you, the mounting tip will put the tire bead on the disk.
  • After this, put on the lower landing board in the same way and inflate the wheel.

Thus, a do-it-yourself tire changing machine is created without any special financial costs and allows you to easily change the tires on your car yourself.

  • The welding angle of the tip for beading to the lever needs to be made smaller - this makes it easier to put the rubber on the disc. The main thing here is not to overdo it.
  • A do-it-yourself tire changing machine can be created quickly and is quite light, so for greater convenience it needs to be attached to the floor.
  • To make work easier and not damage the wheels and tires, you need to lubricate all parts with soapy water.

Finding a tire repair shop is not a big problem, especially in cities. But sometimes there is a need for urgent wheel repair directly at the site of a puncture or tire rupture. On the road, for example. On some business trip or travel. Far from any civilization, where there is simply nowhere to look for help. How


do
this ?

In the old days, drivers caught by surprise used tried-and-true remedies. They were as follows:

The big disadvantages of the method were its labor intensity and the almost inevitable cases of the disk being crushed at the edges.

For tubeless tires such defects are fatal. It will definitely lose its tightness and will not hold air. To prevent this from happening, the damaged disc will have to be straightened or thrown away. In such a situation, the cash costs for a new disk are inevitable.

In a standard tire service, virtually the same operations are performed. The only difference is that there they are more thought out, mechanized, and more careful in relation to the disk. As a result, after repair it exactly retains its previous geometry. But how

achieve this
yourself
?

What modern craftsmen offer

If you look on the Internet, you can see many homemade

mechanized devices for wheel beading. The overwhelming majority of them are fundamentally focused on professional equipment in terms of capabilities. The features relate mainly only to some design solutions.

Homemade machines perform the same functions as standard mechanisms in tire shops. At the same time they:

  • simpler in design;
  • have a manual drive for dismantling;
  • reliable in operation;
  • small-sized;
  • easy to disassemble and convenient to store (some models can fit in the trunk of a car);
  • allow for prompt repairs outside the tire shop, directly at the accident site;
  • The vast majority of all handicraft devices are designed for passenger car wheels.

It goes without saying that wheel removal is incomparably more economical for owners of such machines than a similar service at a car service center.

A few illustrative examples

  1. Vertical console with bracket on the table.

Device:

  • an improvised table with a vertical stand (on top there is a threaded thread);
  • locking washer for fixing the disk with internal thread and bushing-axis;
  • movable console with bracket;
  • a metal rod with blades that bend the tire bead away from the disc;
  • rod fixing bolt.

Design models:

Non-adjustable paddle

Handicraft design (the main drawback is the lack of a system for pressing the rod; the blade has to be constantly hammered with a sledgehammer).

Vertical console with bracket

Adjustable paddle

Modern design. The console and bracket with spatula were purchased at an auto parts store. The disadvantages include the short handle, which does not provide effective pressure on the tire.

Vertical console with bracket without table

The auxiliary tool, console and bracket are presented here in a factory-made version. Any plane can be used as a table. The disadvantage is that the dismantling process is cumbersome, requiring the use of many tools at once. In addition, there is no table here - all operations have to be performed, figuratively speaking, “on the knee”.

There are many other options. There is no point in considering all inventions: they are designed approximately the same.

Let's look at one model. It eliminates as much as possible all the above-mentioned shortcomings. It is quite simple to manufacture the entire machine yourself, without resorting to the cost of purchased spare parts.

DIY tire changing machine

Drawings with dimensions

- the first thing where any practical activity begins. In this case, we will consider a very convenient version of the machine, combining the entire range of tire fitting tasks.

This is a schematic diagram of the structure and functioning of the beading mechanism:

In its natural form (after fairly simple assembly) the machine will look like this:

How to assemble this machine and from what?

Design elements:

Frame

It is made of a rectangular steel profile measuring 50x25 mm. It needs to be cut into five pieces and welded into one stable base. The length of the run-up of the parallel stops and the profile pipe connecting them can be adjusted to the dimensions of the trunk of the car.

Vertical stand

Made from a metal pipe with a diameter of no more than 50 mm (according to the width of the frame components). Attaching to the base can be done using two methods:

Welding into one inseparable whole (non-separable version).

Fixed with a bolt. In this case, a sleeve corresponding to the internal diameter of the pipe must be welded to the frame, and a hole must be drilled in the pipe itself and threaded for the bolt. This option makes the structure collapsible, smaller in size and mobile (suitable for use on the road).

Vertical stand attachments

Washer-platform (flange) with holes for mounting the disk. It is intended for installation, external inspection of the damaged wheel and its final dismantling after dismantling.

Steel corner

With ribs 40-50 mm for attaching a loop under the lever. It is tightly welded to the rack; the hinge itself can be fastened with screws through drilled holes with threads (as in the diagram above). But the welding method of connecting parts is more reliable and simpler.

Lever arm

Designed for removing a tire rim from a disk.

The diagram shows the loop principle of connecting the lever to the riser . He gives

the ability to apply effective pressure on the tire and tear its edge off the rim.

The dimensions shown in the drawing are indicative only. The main thing is that the general proportion is maintained.

Element A

Short tubular bracket with hole for extension pipe. The extension cord is removable. It is inserted into the device before starting work and provides greater pressing power.

Element B

Tire rim support (foot). It is made from the same rectangular profile 50x25 mm as the frame. One end of the stop is attached to the bracket through a loop, the second is flattened and sanded to a rounded shape. This avoids damage to the rubber when pressing with your paw.

Note

When choosing a material for a machine, one should take into account the large loads on all structural elements. Soft steel grades (such as St. 45) are unsuitable here.

To avoid metal corrosion, all machine components must be painted with a persistent oil emulsion.

How to remove a wheel

Manual

the machine works as follows. Sequence of operations:

Visual inspection. The wheel is installed on the washer pad and checked for surface damage to the tire and rim.

Beading:

— the wheel is placed on the support frame under the lever;

— an extension cord is inserted into the lever;

— the paw is directed to the joint of the tire with the disk;

- the lever is pressed.

The operation is carried out sequentially along the entire diameter of the rim. As a result, the entire outer part of the tire is separated from the rim.

Then the same steps are repeated on the back of the wheel.

Complete dismantling is carried out already on the flange of the vertical stand using a simple mount. It is better if it is long enough to easily remove the tire from the rim.

Wheel mounting

What is important to consider at this stage:

Disk integrity

The geometry of the rim should not be violated in any place. This is especially important for tubeless tires. Small dents on stamped discs can be straightened with a hammer. In case of major defects, the disk must be replaced. Damaged cast wheels cannot be straightened due to the fragility of the metal and are always replaced.

Tire lubrication

It reduces friction between rubber and metal during installation. A thin layer of lithol or soap solution is applied to the inner edge of the tire. This does not in any way affect the tightness and quality of the wheel.

No gaps between the disk and tire

Any gap can cause air leakage, especially from tubeless rubber. This installation defect can be easily eliminated by tapping the tire rib with a heavy hammer when inflating the wheel on a machine. As a last resort, you can use special sealing bands and gels (they are sold in all automotive stores).

Conclusion

From all of the above, a simple conclusion suggests itself: a tire changing machine is easy to make yourself. Moreover, in any version: both stationary and mobile. One day off, no more, will be needed to purchase materials and manufacture equipment. This requires only skillful hands and desire.

The reward for your hard work will be time and money. This way you will definitely save them!

Video

A flat tire on the highway without a spare tire is a classic situation that, in terms of frequency of events, holds an honorable first place on the list of car enthusiasts’ troubles. The vast expanses of our Motherland add brightness and depth to this problem: there is not a single auto repair shop around, and if there is, then there is a long queue.

The most natural solution is to do tire fitting yourself, that is, not depend on anyone. The solution is excellent, but to implement it you need to have some tools and skills. Where to gain skills and what tools to stock up on, read here and now.

  • The angle between the beading tip and the lever must be made sharp: the smaller it is, the better the rubber will fit on the disc. But this angle cannot be made too sharp, in which case the lever will scratch the disc when beading. We need to find the optimal degrees of angle.
  • It is better to do a homemade tire changing machine with your own hands using drawings. You are quite capable of preparing them.
  • Consider mounting it to the floor. lightweight, so it should be attached securely. If the floor is concrete, secure the machine with anchor bolts. If the floors are wood, use self-tapping screws.
  • To reduce damage to rims and wheels, lubricate the tips and wheel rim with a thick soap solution. And don't forget to wash the wheel before work.
  • Sometimes wheels may differ in the number of holes for fastenings and the distances between them. For such cases, we make metal adapters with studs 1 cm thick.

How much trouble the operation of dismantling and installing tires on passenger car wheels causes for beginners (and not only) car enthusiasts! Bent rims, torn tire beads, tubes bitten by tire mounts, and even wounded fingers are frequent accompaniments of this work. Therefore, many car owners prefer to go to a car service center and entrust it to specialists, which has its well-known negative sides.

In addition, as someone subtly noted: tire punctures happen more often the further you are from a car service center. Taking into account all of the above, I set myself the task: to develop a simple and small-sized device that works in conjunction with a jack (available with any car) and facilitates the beading and beading of tires. Based on reviews from fellow car enthusiasts who had the chance to use this manufactured device, and based on personal experience, I can say that the problem was solved quite successfully.

The device consists of three parts (assembly units) having a very simple design. They can be made by a DIY car enthusiast with basic metalworking skills. The design and operating principle of the device are clear from photographs and drawings. The plank is a steel plate with dimensions of 140x36x4 mm. Three threaded (M8) pins are welded to it, perpendicular to its plane: one in the middle and two at the ends.

The outermost mounting pins are the same - simple threaded rods. The distance between them on the bar corresponds to the diameter of the circle along which the centers of the mounting holes of the car wheel disk are located (for Zhiguli - 100 mm). The central pin is stepped: at the bottom there is a collar-heel, above there is a thickened part, at the top there is a rod-axis with a thread at the end.

The collar is used for better stability, the thick part is used to support the rod at the height of the wheel rim, the rod-axle is used to fix one of the ends of the rod to the rod. Fastening the pins to the plate - in any available way: on a thread with lock nuts, riveting in square holes, etc., as long as the pins do not fly out or turn.

I have these parts inserted into round holes with a diameter of 8 mm in the plate and welded to it from below. In order to speed up the installation of the device on the wheel, appropriate wing nuts were selected for the pins (if there are none, then you can get by with ordinary ones). The rod is made of steel rod with a diameter of 16 mm. One end of it is sharpened to the profile of the mounting blade and well polished. Nearby, behind the profile surface and in its plane, a hole with a diameter of 9 mm was drilled in the rod.

The other end is bent in a heated state with a hook and here, not far from the end, the same hole is also drilled, only its axis is perpendicular to the axis of the hole at the other end of the rod. The cable is steel. Its diameter is selected so that it “doubly” easily passes through the lower hole in the heel support and in the longitudinal groove of the jack stand, into which it is inserted for work. The cable is tied into a ring.

When working, it is better to leave the place of the tie outside the “pulling” zone - throw it on a support (wheel wrench) or on the jack bracket. The tire removal device operates as follows. First, a strip is secured to the wheel rim using outer pins and wing nuts. Then the straight end of the rod is inserted under the bead of the tire (like a mounting paddle), and its curved end is put on the central pin of the bar and secured with a wing nut.

Next, a “balloon” wrench is inserted into one of the windows closest to the bar in the wheel disk (head up) and the lower outlet, the loop of the cable ring, is placed on it. Its other outlet, previously passed under the bar and into the heel hole, is placed on the jack bracket. After this, the jack is installed on the rod, and its handle rotates “ascending”, i.e. clockwise.

In this case, the cable is “selected” and moves the rod with the jack to the place where the lower loop of the cable is attached (to the head of the wheelbrace), and the straight end of the rod brings the tire bead to the wheel rim. Then the wheel key is moved to another window and the operation continues. When replacing a tire, its second bead is brought out in a similar way to the same side of the disk.

The force on the jack handle when performing this work is approximately the same as when lifting a car. To mount the tire on the wheel, the position of the rod changes. Now its curved end is inserted between the rim and the tire bead, and the straight end is attached to the central rod of the bar. The positions of the key, cable and jack remain the same as when removing the tire.

The device is designed for the jack of Zhiguli type cars, but by adjusting certain dimensions of the parts it can be made for other jacks of various brands of cars. The use of the device is especially effective when mounting and dismantling tires with hard sides.

But the most important thing is that not only the wheels and tires, but also your hands remain intact. The reliability of the device is ensured by the simplicity of its design. The weight of the device (without standard equipment) is a little more than half a kilogram; and it fits in a tool bag along with a set of tools.

Drawing of a homemade tire changing machine

Video on the topic

v-mireauto.ru

Tips and nuances on how to properly install winter wheels on your car

To ensure safe driving in winter, you must not only purchase high-quality winter tires, but also install them correctly. Such rubber grips well even on snow-covered road surfaces, no matter whether the car is accelerating or braking. However, such tires should be installed correctly, without making mistakes.

First of all, you need to inspect the beads of your winter tires. There should be no inclusions, nails, or broken glass. Otherwise, you will be forced to take the tires apart again.

How to properly align the wheels in the direction of travel? To do this, the arrows on the side of the tire must point forward. Otherwise, the herringbone tread pattern will not be cleaned. And if you drive on a snowy road, the car will lose its grip.

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Winter tires must be filled with dry air. Otherwise, as soon as the temperature drops, condensation will form inside the tire, which will then turn into ice. It is clear that in this case the rubber will quickly become unusable. To prevent this, you should purchase a small tire compressor, the wire of which is connected to the cigarette lighter (12 V). Such a compact and powerful compressor will help you pump clean and dry air into your tire, which is especially important in winter.

Most often, winter tires come with studs. Steel studs improve traction on snowy or icy roads. In this case, the car will not skid, no matter whether you are accelerating or braking. However, for such tires to work effectively, the studs must remain in their seating sipes and not fly out. To do this, new studded tires must be broken in. This means that for some time it is only possible to drive on such tires at low speeds.

If the tire is spiked and its diameter is increased, most likely it will come into contact with the inner area of ​​the wing. To correctly install such wheels, you need to remember this nuance. In addition, the machine should not be overloaded during operation.

Upon completion of the winter tire installation process, final or computer balancing should be performed. This is the only way the wheels will have correct alignment. What is final balancing? The car is lifted on a lift, the wheels accelerate to a speed of 120 km/h. Computer balancing means that the alignment is done on a machine. After this procedure, the car’s suspension will remain in perfect condition, and it will be easier to drive the car even at high speed.

How to install wheels correctly with your own hands?

First you need to park the car on a flat surface. If you plan to regularly change your tires yourself, you should buy a tire jack. A compact rolling one will do, and it costs little. This type of jack will last longer than the standard one that comes with the car. You will also need a cross-shaped wheel wrench or a wrench with an extended handle. It will be more convenient to use than the standard one.

You should place a stop under the car wheel; a small brick will do. Conduct a visual inspection of the secret key, the code elements should not be broken, the secret nuts and bolts should be cleaned of dirt.

If the parameters of winter tire rims are different, consider: spacer rings may be required between the rim and the hub boss. They must be purchased in advance.

  1. How to properly install wheels with a directional tread pattern? To do this, you need to select the tires in the direction of rotation. You will get 2 right and 2 left car wheels. Pay attention to the arrow on the side of the tire so as not to make a mistake. Tires are installed forward, the wear of which is minimal.
  2. Set the steering wheel to a straight position, turn off the engine, and put the car on the handbrake. The automatic transmission selector should be in position P, but if you have a manual transmission, you need to leave the selector in gear. Don’t forget to place a stop under the car wheel; it should be located diagonally from the one you will be removing.
  3. Now you need to roll the jack under the reinforced area on the threshold of the car. Most often, there is a triangle symbol in this place; this place can also be felt on the flange. It is necessary to slightly lift the car with a jack, the tires should not come off the ground. Now unscrew the lock or bolt. Other fasteners need to be loosened half a turn.
  4. Next, you need to hang the car wheel and dismantle it using a jack. Inspect the pads, brake disc and hose, CV boot, and stabilizer bar link. If necessary, clean the hub mating surface if there is dirt on it. For this it is better to use a wire brush. Then we apply a copper-based lubricant.

  5. We install a car wheel with a winter tire. Now you need to attach the fasteners; they should be tightened crosswise, as if you want to draw an asterisk. After you remove the jack, fully tighten the bolts. It is important to observe the tightening torque and not overtighten the bolts. If you do not have an SUV, then you need to tighten the fastenings with a torque of no more than 100–110 N∙m. Thus, if the key is 0.5 m, we apply no more than 20 kg of force. No need to step on the key with your foot. Lastly, tighten the lock, using a little less effort.
  6. So, you have installed one car wheel correctly. Now we perform the same action three more times. After this, your car will be prepared for the winter season. Moreover, you will replace the car wheels yourself, and you will not have to visit a tire station.

When you go on a trip, you should double-check the tightness of the bolts, and inflate the tires every other day, if necessary.

How to make a tire changing machine with your own hands?

The most convenient, fastest and most reliable way to replace tires is at a specialized tire workshop. But it’s not always possible to go there, and there may be a lot of reasons for this, one of which is the cost of replacement. That's why some motorists try to do everything themselves. Only this will require certain equipment. We will tell you further about how to make a simple tire changing machine in your garage.

Do you need a wheel beading machine in your garage?

In fact, if you look from the outside, the procedure for changing tires does not seem such a difficult task. You just need to remove the old tire and put the new one on the rim. But as soon as you start dismantling, one problem arises - you simply lack physical strength.

You can purchase a special travel kit that will make the task easier. It includes a set of various mounts and special wedges. But if the tire has been used for a long time, then considerable effort must be made to peel it off from the edge of the disk.

It is in such cases that wheel beading may require some homemade devices that will be designed specifically for your situation. One of these is a tire changing machine.

Design features of a tire changing machine

The design of a tire changing machine is very simple and similar to the design of a rack and pinion jack. It consists of: a frame, a vertical riser and a pipe with a handle.

The frame consists of two parallel pipes made of a rectangular profile. They will be connected to each other with a steel angle.

The vertical riser is attached to the frame and performs a number of tasks: attaching the lever and a platform for fixing the wheel rim.

The pipe with the handle will act as a lever when removing the tire.

Important! When constructing all the components listed above, you need to stock up on high-quality rolled metal, because when performing tire fitting, the machine will undergo heavy loads.

Advantages of a homemade design

A do-it-yourself machine for beading car wheels has many advantages:

Important! If this machine is used correctly, the wheels will not be damaged.

When you decide to build a homemade tire changing machine with your own hands, we recommend searching for suitable diagrams and design drawings on the Internet.

  • Take two strong profile pipes, place them parallel to each other at a distance of at least 70 centimeters. This way the structure will be more stable.
  • Connect them together with a corner or smaller pipe. Additionally, you can install legs that will be adjustable.
  • Next, weld a pipe with a cross-section of 20 or 30 millimeters to the crossbar. First weld the flange at a height of approximately 50 centimeters.
  • Weld the fastener to the vertical part. They will use a steel plate. With its help, a lever will be installed, which will be required to remove the tire from the wheel rim. The lever will consist of two parts: a shoulder and a foot.

Now that you already have a DIY tire changing machine, you can start disassembling the wheel. You will also need a long tire iron from the travel kit. You can weld a handle to it.

  • Place the wheel on the flange and secure with a clamp.
  • Using the narrow end of the pry bar, move the edge of the rubber beyond the outer part of the wheel rim. Turn the wheel over and remove the tire completely.

At this stage, it is important to carefully consider the following points:
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auto.today

Homemade tire fitting

22May
Often, a broken wheel or a cut tire on a car, especially in villages remote from cities, makes the car owner want to make a homemade tire changing machine. There are compelling facts for such a decision

  1. Always available
  2. No need to go anywhere
  3. Save time
  4. Saving money
  5. Manufacturing materials can be found everywhere
  6. Device drawings are essentially not needed
  7. Ease of manufacture

To make such a device for servicing the wheels of your car, we will need the following materials

  • Channels and corners
  • Bulgarian
  • Welding machine
  • Old unnecessary ordinary metal disk from a car wheel
  • A few bolts and nuts

Let's get started

The machine can be made either mobile or stationary; the difference, in fact, is only in the presence of the wheels themselves.

That's all

The process of dismantling a wheel on a homemade tire machine

Since this is quite difficult to explain in words, let alone imagine, we will use folk wisdom, which says that it is better to see once than to hear a hundred times

Disassemble a wheel on the road

If there is a need to disassemble a wheel in road conditions, then proceed as follows:

  • Remove the wheel from the car
  • Bleed all the air out of it completely.
  • Thread a tow rope or strong rope through the hole in the disc
  • Place the jack on the tire as close to the rim as possible
  • Place the cable on the jack, having previously tied it so that it creates a tight ring of circumference between the tire and the jack.
  • Raise your jack - thereby you will influence the tire, and it will separate it from the disk, while it is better to press with your weight on the opposite part of the wheel from the jack

The photo below will clearly let you understand the whole meaning of this process.

Explosive inflation of a tubeless car wheel

If after this you need to quickly inflate the wheel and you have a tubeless one, then even an electric machine pump will not help you here, because the air will escape through the leaky holes faster than the pump will pump.

How to deal with this situation, just take something very flammable; you can usually get gasoline from the tank or from the fuel hose in the engine compartment.

  • We need about 50 grams of gasoline
  • Pour it into the tire, maybe at the junction of the tire with the disk, and throw a match into this place or set it on fire with something on an extension cord - for example, burning paper put on a stick, since when the gasoline ignites, a sharp bang will occur and the wheel may even jump, and so you weren’t injured here and you need a handy extension cord for ignition
  • After the pop, your tire will have approximately 0.5-2 atmospheres, immediately connect your electric, foot or hand pump and pump up the tire to the required pressure before it goes flat. The video below clearly demonstrates such an explosive process of inflating car tires.
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