How to dissolve raw rubber to a liquid state

How to make rubber in Minecraft?

At the initial stage, while there is no extractor, you can get some rubber using a furnace or any equivalent. Melting latex in a furnace produces one unit of rubber. Latex can also be used for alternative crafting of torches and sticky pistons.

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Recovery methods

Rubber elements, under the influence of external factors, lose their original properties, become less elastic, and harden. Their continued use will not bring the desired effect; seals, for example, will not be able to make the system completely sealed. Purchasing new rubber elements is sometimes difficult due to the lack of products of the required sizes or their inflated cost.

The following substances can soften rubber:

Kerosene. Allows you to make rubber parts soft, affecting the structure of the material. After processing, the rubber element becomes completely elastic. The recovery technology is as follows:

fill a small container with kerosene (select the container size depending on the size of the product to be restored);
place the part in a container with kerosene for 3 hours;
after the specified time, check the product for softness, if the result is satisfactory: remove the material and rinse with warm running water;
Dry the material naturally, without using a hair dryer or battery.

Ammonia alcohol. The process for restoring old material is as follows:

dilute the specified alcohol with water in a ratio of 1:7;
place the rubber material in the resulting solution for half an hour;
after the specified time, remove the part and rinse with warm running water;
Allow the part to dry completely before using it.

Please note: you cannot keep rubber in a solution of ammonia and water for more than an hour. If the material is not elastic after 30 minutes, use another recovery method.

Rubbing alcohol followed by glycerin. Technology for “reanimation” of rubber parts:

fill the container with medical alcohol;
place the part that requires restoration in alcohol for several hours;
after the specified time, check the condition of the product, if it is soft enough, remove the element from the solution and wash with warm soapy water;
rub glycerin into the surface of the part using a sponge (cloth);
remove any remaining glycerin from the surface of the product.

Instead of glycerin, it is allowed to use automobile oil; it is rubbed into the surface of the product, then the part is left for half an hour before use. During this period, the rubber becomes quite elastic.

Castor oil and silicone. Let’s make a reservation right away - this method allows you to quickly “reanimate” old rubber, but the restoration effect will not last long; after a few days the product will become hard. For this method, follow the sequence:

coat the part with silicone;
wait 10 minutes;
After the specified time has passed, the part can be used.

Please note: a similar effect is achieved by using castor oil. It is rubbed into the surface of the part, after which it becomes soft and elastic.

We recommend watching a video about softening rubber using ammonia:

Hot vulcanization

Rubber, as a raw material, has the property of being welded into a single composition at a temperature of 150 °C. As a result of this process, the rubber becomes rubber and cannot return to its original position. Thanks to its capabilities, rubber can fix any punctures and cuts in the tube and tire.

It is necessary to vulcanize rubber using a hot method, only using a press. The depth and area of the cut will tell you how long to weld. Typically, it takes 4 minutes of cooking to repair a 1mm cut. Accordingly, if the cut is 4mm, then it needs to be vulcanized for 16 minutes. In this case, the equipment must be warmed up and configured.

By performing hot vulcanization at temperatures above 150C o, you can ruin the rubber and achieve nothing, since the material will deteriorate and lose its characteristics.

Using clamps or a press allows you to properly patch the damage. After finishing the work, you should make sure that there are no voids or air bubbles in the seam. If there are any, you need to clean the puncture site from fresh rubber and repeat the whole process again.

In order to hot seal a camera at home, you must do the following. From raw rubber, you need to cut a piece slightly smaller than the patch itself. The tube or tire is cleaned slightly wider at the damaged area, to a rough state, and then degreased with gasoline. When preparing the patch, you need to cut the chamfer at an angle of 45°, also sand and degrease. Then we cover the puncture site with a patch, clamp it in a vice and heat it to the desired temperature.

If you dissolve raw rubber in gasoline, you can get a special glue for rubber, the use of which improves the quality of the seam. Particular attention should be paid to temperature conditions. Vulcanization is carried out at a temperature of 140 - 150 ° C; if there is a smell of burnt rubber, it means the patch has overheated, and if it has not merged with the overall product, then it may not have reached the required temperature. To prevent rubber from sticking to metal, you need to place paper between them.

Making a vulcanization device

Each vulcanizer has two main elements - a heating part and a clamping device. The basis of such rubber processing equipment can be used:

iron;
“bazaar” electric stove;
piston from the engine.

In a device with an iron, the heating part is the surface that is used for ironing in everyday life. If we plan to use an electric stove, then the heating coil should be covered with a metal sheet, and when working, you need to place paper between the rubber and the metal. Such a device must be equipped with a thermostat to avoid overheating of the material.

The pressing part of the vulcanizer is easiest to make from a clamp. The simplest device to manufacture would be a device consisting of an iron and a clamp. Since they are both metal, joining them using arc welding is not difficult. The iron also has a thermostat.

A piston vulcanizer also uses a metal plate. A rubber bladder is placed on it. The piston, with its smooth part, which is in contact with the explosive mixture in the engine, presses down the patch using a homemade clamp. Paper is also placed between the piston and the patch. After that, gasoline is poured into the piston and ignited.

Such a device made from a piston is especially useful on the road, when there is no way to connect to the electrical network. However, such a device does not have a thermostat, and the temperature will have to be controlled manually.

How to impregnate a rubber boat for storage? Tips for repairing a rubber boat

The end of the season is coming. I'm going to preserve the boat . But before that I want to give her some minor repairs. Namely, I want to saturate it with some kind of impregnation to seal micro cracks and, well, tint it. I searched through a search engine, nothing useful. There is a lot of advice, but no one actually checked it, everything is from someone else’s words. Here are some tips.

Wash thoroughly with cold water and some mild fairy product. Then wipe thoroughly, especially all corners, the main thing is to remove all the sand completely and dry it. Sprinkle with talcum powder and fold. Store at a temperature of 15-20 degrees, well, if this is not the case, then at room temperature, but not higher than 30 and not lower than 10. And be sure to fold it again several times during storage with kinks in other places. Thus, the boat “Nyok-2”, which I had in the second half of the 90s, lasted 8 years, after which it was still sold in good condition. As for all sorts of “what to lubricate”, then those who have storage experience advised me not to do this at all - it wouldn’t be better, and it would be easy to get worse. All this is from personal experience.

— Still, it’s better not to bring it to 30. In this heat, the rubber cakes. I store it in the basement, it’s 15 degrees there both in winter and summer. You can’t store potatoes - they bloom, but here’s a warehouse for all sorts of things for which there isn’t much room at home.

Wipe the entire surface you want to renew. Use fine sandpaper, such as zero sand, remove dust with gasoline. Next, take rubber glue, which is sold commercially. In kits for rubber boats, dilute the “galoshes” with gasoline, add aluminum powder, and constantly stir to create a thin paint. I add powder for 1. the silver color reflects the sun's rays, does not age the rubber, does not heat up the balloon. 2 from a bird's eye view, the surface of the water is light due to the reflected sky and the dark boat is clearly visible, unlike the silver one, for a hunter this is essential. Next, we paint the boat in three or four layers with complete drying in between. The final procedure is to dust the entire painted surface with talc, I took baby powder from pharmacies. I sprinkled it and stroked my palm until there was no sticking at all, this is a must. You can also pour talc inside the boat, pump it up and tilt the boat for better uniform distribution along the inside. surfaces. You can also use oil paints instead of silver (aluminum powder) to imitate camouflage. The use of other solvents and adhesives is unacceptable and will damage the surface. I also covered an awning on a motor boat, a tarpaulin raincoat, 100% waterproof, but instead of rubber glue I used sealant, in my household white color. Materials coated with sealant at sub-zero temperatures become brittle, this does not happen with a rubber coating , however, it’s better not to disturb the product when it’s below zero. I installed oarlocks and normal oars in the boat. The boat is still used every year for fishing and hunting. The “paint” lasts for 5-7 years, it has never peeled off, it feels like it is getting thinner and the old coating is starting to show through.

If your boat is still leaking, you can make a simple boat with your own hands. The main thing is to stay afloat.

Preventative work to rejuvenate rubber in the spring, before use.

I inflate the boat and, using an ordinary paint brush, completely coat the cylinders with adhesive solution. I make the solution from rubber glue No. 88 (one part) and aviation gasoline (two parts). I do not recommend smoking during this procedure, unless you are a kamikaze, of course.

I mix the liquid thoroughly and apply a thin layer to the rubber surface. This achieves the following positive aspects: microcracks are sealed, through which air escapes unnoticeably; joining seams are strengthened; old rubber absorbs the amount of liquid rubber it needs and becomes elastic. It is advisable to carry out such prevention at least once a year. Then it will be like new for a long time. After each fishing trip, the boat must be thoroughly dried. It is advisable to do this as soon as you go ashore and wash the boat. If you leave this procedure for later, you can safely forget that your watercraft is lonely and moldy in its case. If this is repeated frequently, the threads on the connecting seams will rot and the boat will burst at the “most opportune” moment. If the day is sunny, insert one oar into the oarlock and put the boat on its butt. In twenty to thirty minutes it will be dry. Leaving your “rubber friend” on the balcony during the winter is tantamount to betrayal. Large temperature changes and cold negatively affect the properties of rubber.

I know people who, during multi-day rafting, covered the lower part of the boat with a thin layer of grease, explaining that this, they say, achieves an additional sliding moment in especially shallow places, where the boat often scrapes its belly along the bottom and is not protected from cuts. I haven’t used this method myself, so I don’t have my own opinion on this. But it’s worth talking about it, in case someone decides that this is a worthwhile innovation.

Tips for repairing a rubber boat

Ufimka cannot be cured by prevention - a seam rupture or a high-quality patch, this is possible, but in order to avoid etching along the seams, you need to disassemble everything and reassemble it again, while cleaning the seams from old glue. This build quality is unfortunate...

Rubber and gutta-percha solutions

Fischer rubber solution

Numerous experiments to dissolve rubber have not yet given completely satisfactory results, since in very few cases it is possible to dissolve swollen rubber. In addition, most solvents suffer from being easily flammable and too dense. A solvent that does not suffer from these disadvantages is, according to Fischer, dichloroethylene, the density of which is low, and the ability to dissolve rubber exceeds the ability of chloroform. Dichlorethylene is a watery-clear liquid, boiling at 55ºC; it does not develop explosive vapors and is not flammable. It gives a smooth solution, without lumps and, due to its low boiling point, easily evaporates again from the solution.

Rubber solution according to Miller.

5 finely chopped rubber with 2 1/2 ether are moderately heated in a glass flask in a sand bath until the rubber is completely dissolved. Then add 2 1/2 heated varnish and, after some cooling, 5 heated turpentine.

Rubber solution according to Winkler.

Dissolve 6 finely chopped rubber in 12'/2 purified turpentine and 15 thick oil, in a glass flask, while heating in a sand bath. 30 greasy, heated copal varnish is added to the resulting solution.

Rubber solution according to Zühl.

It is known that rubber is easily absorbed by various volatile substances that dissolve with the help of water vapor, which can then be distilled with water vapor, resulting in a homogeneous rubber solution. The most suitable such substance turned out to be naphthalene, in which rubber dissolves already at temperatures below 100ºC. Dissolve 10 rubber in 50 naphthalene, add 30 linseed oil and the naphthalene is distilled with water vapor, then after separating the mixture from the water, add turpentine oil or another diluting agent.

Topic: DIY universal super glue at home.

After 30 minutes, repeat the entire process, applying a thin layer of glue to both surfaces and, do not forget that the glue should not stain your inflatable boat !

After about 10 minutes, or when the second layer of adhesive has dried tack-free, apply the patch to the designated area, making sure that the inflatable cylinder is placed on a flat surface so that pressure is applied evenly to the patch. Using a round object, such as the handle of a large screwdriver, smooth the patch over the entire surface to be glued, paying particular attention to the edges. Leave the boat with the patch lying flat for about one hour. Then you can carefully give the sides a rounded shape, but do not inflate them to working condition. The air cylinders should not be inflated to operating pressure for approximately 24 hours.

Where is silicone used?

This material is used in almost all spheres of human life - in construction, everyday life, medicine and production. Silicone has earned popularity due to its unique and valuable qualities that are absent from analogues of this substance.

Silicone is capable of reducing and increasing the adhesion process , as well as imparting hydrophobic properties to the target object. This universal material is able to maintain its basic parameters at extremely high, low temperatures and in conditions of high humidity. In addition, silicones have dielectric characteristics, bioinertness, a high degree of elasticity, are durable and environmentally friendly.