How to flare a steel brake pipe with your own hands?

Non-ferrous metal tubes in vehicle systems

We won’t touch the radiators for now, this is a separate topic. Let's take an interest in the pipes that are responsible for the operation of the car's brake and fuel systems. Rotten brake pipes are a problem not only of old Soviet cars, but also of newer foreign cars that have been driving on roads generously sprinkled with salt and all sorts of chemicals for several years. Tubes become unusable primarily due to the fact that they are affected by an aggressive chemical environment. In winter, we have plenty of this environment under our wheels. With human-made road surfaces, the salt comes off the roads along with the snow, but with our roads, it can remain there until next winter.

Causes of brake pipe failures

But this is not the only reason for the wear of sealed tubes. From salt they only rot, and from constant strong constrictions of fittings, improper fixation, breaks and bends, they receive severe mechanical damage that is incompatible with life. This is not the fault of the pipes, but of unfortunate craftsmen who do not know how to properly handle soft or brittle metal. One way or another, the time comes to replace the tubes, and if the required configuration is not found, which is almost impossible, then you have to make the tube yourself. Cut off the required piece, put on fittings and flare. And you need to be able to do this. Flaring brake pipes with your own hands is not a difficult task, quick, and inexpensive.

Tools and accessories

For flaring tubes, depending on the material they are made of, various devices can be used. If you need a flaring machine for processing copper tubes, then a homemade device for flaring tubes is quite suitable for this.

In the case of flaring copper tubes with your own hands, it is not so much force that is required as accuracy. The funnel formed during this procedure at the end of the copper pipe must be free of defects, distortions and chips.

Types of manual flaring devices

To perform flaring, a hand-made tool can also be used. We list the devices most often required in such cases:

a device whose design consists of two parts - a clamp, which ensures the retention of a tube of a certain diameter, as well as a cone connected to a screw (the clamp is a metal plate in which holes of various diameters are made);
An extender is a lever-type device, the working body of which is an adjustable expansion head for processing pipes of various diameters (the adjustable legs of such a device, which is fixed in a certain position, act on the inner walls of the pipe, stretching them).

Drawing of a homemade device for flaring tubes (click to enlarge)

The manual flaring tool should be used as carefully as possible, otherwise the pipe being processed may develop walls of varying thickness.

Brake pipe flaring kit

You cannot prepare copper tubing for use with your bare hands. To do this you need to have at least minimal equipment. Although the metal is soft, the end of the tube must exactly correspond to the landing cone, otherwise we will not achieve a sealed system. Ideally, for flaring tubes, they use a machine that needs to be purchased, but if we have the opportunity, we can use a homemade kit, which, once done, we will use for many years. And it will come in handy more than once, believe me. Here is his drawing.

It is not anything complicated. This is a frame made of two corners 5mm thick and a shelf 32mm. The length of each corner is 100 mm. The drawing shows that the set is suitable for tubes with a diameter of 9 and 12 mm. The bed itself is completed in ten minutes with a sharpening machine, drilling machine and grinder. Both corners are fastened with two M8 bolts; holes and chamfers are drilled in them when assembled. You will either have to order the mandrels from a turner, which is not at all problematic, or grind them yourself. But with the help of such a kit, any tube turns into a perfectly prepared part. The flaring process occurs in exactly the same way as using a machine, which we will discuss later.

How to flare a pipe

When wondering how to flare a pipe, you should keep in mind that only products made from a sufficiently plastic material can undergo such a procedure. This, in particular, includes soft tubes made of copper and aluminum alloys, as well as certain grades of stainless steel. To perform such a technological operation, either a commercially produced flaring machine or a home-made device can be used. Meanwhile, flaring of large-diameter steel pipes or products made of other metals must be carried out using professional equipment.

Pipe flaring device

How to flare pipes at home? In such situations, tubes made of copper and other soft metals are most often subjected to flaring, but regardless of the material used to make the products, this technological operation is performed in the following sequence:

The end of the pipe is thoroughly cleaned, and burrs are removed from its surface.
Then a special coupling is installed on it and placed in a flaring device.
If a manual flaring machine is used to perform flaring, then the process of doing it is as follows: when screwing in the screw, the cone of the flaring device, exerting a mechanical effect on the inner surface of the pipe, deforms it.
Once the end of the tube has taken a funnel shape with a bevel angle of approximately 45°, the flaring tool is removed.
The detachable coupling, which was previously put on the tube, is moved to its end and the nut is tightened.

If the flaring machine is used to prepare tubes for soldering, a threaded detachable coupling is not used.

Brake Tube Flaring Machine

the simplest tube flaring machine will cost you 600-700 rubles. But this will not be the highest quality product. We would recommend not going below 1800, otherwise there is a chance of wasting your money. We showed several sets and machines in the photo. One of them is more expensive, the second is cheaper, but they have the same essence.

The machine consists of a bar that holds the cutting. Actually, our homemade set also has the same structure, only the branded sets are required to include:

the bar itself for fixing the tubes;
machine with a flaring angle of 45 degrees;
a set of replaceable dies made of durable hardened steel;
tube cutter.

More expensive models have even more equipment, but we will consider only the most minimal configurations.

Flaring can be of three types, but the first two are of little interest to us, because they are used mainly in refrigerators and air conditioners. Flaring occurs as follows:

We clamp the tube in the holder so that it protrudes beyond its edge by 5-6 mm.
Instead of a cone, we install a stamp that matches the diameter of the tube.
We screw in the stamp and flatten the very end of the copper tube.
Do not forget to put on the fittings, and the threads should be directed away from each other towards the ends of the tube.
Remove the stamp and change it to a cone.
Screw in the cone carefully and gradually.
We take out the tube, carry out a careful inspection, and clean it if necessary.

Thus, we get a neat flared brake pipe, which can be used to safely replace the old one that has failed. We can't say that every garage should have a tube flaring machine, but as a rule, the most valuable items are those that are not always at hand. Monitor the condition of the brake system, and good luck on the roads!

The essence of the process

Radial deformation or flaring of copper pipes in the hole of a special apparatus is necessary to create a strong adhesion of structural elements, for example, a pipe with a tube sheet. In this way, parts are secured in condensers, boilers, oil coolers, steam generators and other heat exchangers.

Stages of pipe flaring

Manipulations are carried out in three stages:

The required gap between the part and the tube sheet is selected.
Both elements are deformed.
The pressure (load) is removed from the outer surface of the deformed workpiece.

During the process of flaring copper tubes, the metal softens, stretches (goes into a state of plastic deformation), and the tube sheet material goes into a state of elastic deformation. For the manipulation to be successful, the grating material must be harder than copper.

At the end of the flaring process, the grid “encircles” the pipe section. We obtain a press connection, the strength of which is ensured by the contact pressure of the surface of the part and the grid hole.

Sometimes welding is used to connect these elements - this type of fastening is called combined. When installing a copper water supply, one of the parts is expanded, then a second pipe is inserted into it, after which the gap between them is filled with solder.

It may be necessary to change the diameter of parts in the following cases:

If a stamped (cast) product of the required shape cannot be purchased ready-made (it is not produced or is out of stock).
A delicate adjustment of the bending angle, the size of the tube or its internal diameter is required.

Ways to increase pipe diameter

The tool used to carry out the manipulation is called a copper tube roller. In industry, high-strength shafts are used, which are rolled several times, resulting in a profile of the desired configuration. Work can be performed on special machines and machines, bending rollers.

Copper is a ductile material, so if you have dexterity and great physical strength, you can manually try to pull a copper blank onto a conical template (blank) to get the desired connection. They resort to this homemade method, which does not use rolling for copper pipes, in extreme cases, since the result is difficult to predict. There may be ruptures in places that bear the maximum tensile load; a thin part may simply become wrinkled and become unusable due to uneven thinning of the pipe walls.

Flaring machine

Of course, if the pipes are faulty, you can take the car to a service station and entrust the repair to specialists. But why spend money on something you can do yourself? To do this, you need to purchase a flaring tool in specialized stores or order it online. It is available for inch or metric threads. The set includes a pipe cutter, a device, pliers, a clamp, and dies for different diameters of tubes for flaring with a fungus.

Aluminum socket-to-pipe tee in passage section, AN4 to 1/8" NPT

Details

Fitting end A:

-4 AN Male

Fitting end B:

Male 1/8" NPT thread

Fitting end C:

-4 AN Male

Important messages:

Get FREE Shipping when your order includes this item over $99! Ground shipping within the United States only.

Some parts are prohibited in California or other states with similar laws/regulations.

Homemade device for repairing brake pipes

An even cheaper method is to make a homemade device. If you have the desire and minimal skills to work with your hands, there is nothing difficult about it. First you need to make a base (frame) for attaching the tubes. You can assemble it from two steel corners. Cut the corners to the required length with a grinding machine, drill two holes in them for fastening with bolts. This is done in 15 minutes.

Having assembled the frame, you need to make holes for the tube and chamfer it using a drill press or drill. The most difficult thing is the production of punches (mandrels). You can order them from a familiar turner.

Aluminum socket-to-pipe tee in passage section, AN8 to 3/8" NPT

Details

Fitting end A:

-8 AN Male

Fitting end B:

Male 3/8" NPT thread

Fitting end C:

-8 AN Male

Important messages:

Get FREE Shipping when your order includes this item over $99! Ground shipping within the United States only.

Some parts are prohibited in California or other states with similar laws/regulations.

The process of flaring brake pipes with your own hands

First you need to determine the extent of the tube failure and the possibility of repair. To do this, unscrew it from the caliper or brake cylinder. If it is possible to remove the damaged area while maintaining the desired length, cut this piece with a pipe cutter. After this, we treat the remaining part with gasoline, clamp it with pliers and remove the internal chamfer with a drill. If it is impossible to carry out repairs, we buy the handset in the store.

DIY tube repair instructions:

We install the tube in the device (base). It is necessary that the end protrudes 5 mm beyond the edge;
We change the cone with a stamp required for the diameter of the tube;
Screw the stamp;
Screw in the stamp and slightly flatten the end of the copper tube;
We put on the fittings. Be sure not to forget, otherwise you will have to redo everything;
Remove the stamp and replace it with a cone-shaped tool;
Carefully, slowly, twist;
We take out the tube and clean it if necessary.

At the exit we have a new brake pipe under the cone. You can also flare the tube in another way, called a “fungus”. Typically, European-made cars use “fungus” flaring, while Japanese and other Asian models use “cone” flaring. To flare it under the “fungus” you just need not remove the required stamp.

In what cases is flaring used?

There are several reasons why you need to use this method.

To get a split joint. In air conditioners, refrigeration units, hydraulic and other systems where control of the working fluid is required, pipes are connected using couplings. If you need to get away from welding non-ferrous metals or welding in general.

Application of soldering on copper tubes. It is possible to effectively solder two pipes only if their surfaces are in sufficient contact. This is achieved either by inserting one diameter into another, or (with the same diameters) by flaring the ends and increasing the contact area of the elements. Otherwise, the pipe connection will break due to vibration or external force.

For simplified fixation of the pipe end. For decorative and other purposes, when the pipe should be fixed, for example, with its end facing the plane, flaring and fixation with a washer are used.

In complex configurations. In cases where electrical harnesses are laid inside the pipe and it is necessary to pass through various bends. Then the entire route is divided into separate elements and joined together with couplings.

Pros and cons of do-it-yourself flaring

Of the minuses, it is worth noting that brake pipes do not fail very often and your tool may only be needed once. An exception is if you buy used cars with high mileage that have been kept in poor, unfavorable conditions or have been in accidents and replace them quite often.

Whether to do the repairs yourself according to the instructions or entrust them to specialists is up to each person to decide individually, but it is always necessary to monitor the condition of the brake system and pipes, among other things! » alt=»»>

Pipe flaring: subtleties of technology and basic tools

Specialists often have to change both the configuration and other geometric parameters of pipe rolling to solve various problems. Most often, to change the shape and size of a tubular product, a technological operation such as flaring is used. It should be borne in mind that this operation is fundamentally different from what is called rolling, and these differences are significant.

The ends of these copper pipes are flared: expanded to a specific shape and prepared for connection

Do-it-yourself flaring of brake pipes, pros and cons

Flaring brake pipes is a process that may be needed at any time by someone who has a personal car. Of course, the implementation of this and any other procedure associated with technological service and vehicle repair can always be entrusted to competent service station professionals, however, many drivers take a different path and strive to do everything with their own hands. Any owner has the right to decide who to trust with the maintenance of their vehicle, and many of the problems can be completely resolved on their own.

Specific terminology of different rolling methods

The concept of “pipe rolling” is a bit of a misnomer from a linguistic point of view. This term implies two opposite operations, and parts of the deformation of the workpieces are performed without rollers.

Summarizing the terminology, it is worth mentioning that rolling is:

changing the shape of the pipe (turning into a round, square, oval shape);
bending at an angle or along a radius;
molding a round or flat blank into a tube-shaped product;
end expansion or enlargement of one end of the pipe in order to prepare for joining with a part or fragment of the pipeline;
crimping the end of the pipe end to create a hermetically sealed joint (reducing the diameter);
cutting metal to give the end of the pipe a different shape and diameter.

Privaltsovka. The expansion process begins after the pipe is inserted into the forming hole. This eliminates the gap between the edges of the hole and the pipe bender. Next, you need to apply force to start the deformation process with a tighter joint.

Hand tools are used to flare soft metal pipes

Flaring of steel pipes is the most common method of deforming pipelines and other products. This is a method of expanding the diameter of one of the pipeline fragments - for high-quality articulation of the sections. After such processing, the communication sections are joined using a telescopic method - the end of one pipe fits as tightly as possible into the next fragment.

Purpose of brake pipes

brake pipes are needed for and what function they perform , you do not need to regard them as an independent component, you should get acquainted with the entire system of the car. The car braking system functions in this way: if it is necessary to reduce speed or during sudden braking, the driver unscrews the corresponding lever, and the piston, which is in the main cylinder under great pressure, begins to drive away the liquid along special paths.

Braking itself or the absolute stop of the car occurs at the moment of restructuring the fluid pressure forces on the wheel cylinders in opposition to the brake pads. So, the paths along which the piston drives fluid to the wheels consist of tubes and hoses. Taking a part out of operation results in a malfunction of the entire braking system, and your car becomes unusable for use.

Overview of species

Flaring of brake pipes is a process in which the configuration of their ends is changed so that the hollow product here acquires the desired shape by reducing or increasing the diameter. The procedure may be required at any time for those people who drive a personal car. You can entrust it to professionals, or do it yourself.

In any case, the master will need certain knowledge about the process of rolling, as well as its varieties.

"Single funnel"

This option is not used in the automotive industry. The procedure is carried out with a cone in one operation. There are also cases of screwing a single funnel to replace a double one.

If the brake fluid is tightened tightly, there will be no leakage of brake fluid.

"Fungus"

This method is considered to be a one-time connection. It is considered the standard for cars manufactured in Asia and Europe. Flaring is carried out in one operation, which helps demotivate repair work.

"Double Funnel"

This is the American standard for performing flaring using a reusable connection.

Rolling is carried out in two operations:

jamming of the body;
making a funnel.

The same standard was used in the USSR in the production of Moskvich, Volga and UAZ cars.

Tube faults

If there is poor transmission of fluid through the pipes, the car brakes with delay, and the braking distance almost doubles. In addition, during the operation of the system, most often when the brake pedal is pressed, extraneous sounds and some impulse movements occur.

The cause of pipe damage is loss of fluid in the brake system. This loss will cause the brake drums to overheat and cause uneven pad wear. Another indicator may be the unusual behavior of the car when the lever is pressed, namely: the car moves a little to the side. Of course, this is not a direct cause, however, as professionals say, it may indicate a broken tube.

Each motorist should be a little familiar with the design of his own car in order to be able to repair the breakdown with his own hands in the event of repair work, if possible. This especially applies to the autobraking system. Often, when it malfunctions, it is necessary to flare the pipes through which the liquid passes, when the lever is pressed, from the cylinder to the pads.

Blue AN10 Flare Straight Adapter to 1/2" Aluminum Tube Fitting

Details

Fitting end A:

-10 AN Male

Fitting end B:

1/2" NPT Outer

Information

These straight flare adapters connect 1/2" pipe to -10 AN straight fittings. They are made of lightweight aluminum and have a 37° seal angle. Order your desired size.

Precision machined to ensure precise thread engagement
Lightweight aluminum fitting
10 AN to 1/2 inch aluminum pipe
37° seal angle guarantees reliable sealing at maximum operating pressure
Available in blue anodized for a custom look

Fitting Application Chart (GIF)

Important messages:

Get FREE Shipping when your order includes this item over $99! Ground shipping within the United States only.

Some parts are prohibited in California or other states with similar laws/regulations.

Flaring machine

When purchasing a flaring device, you need to focus on the manufacturer and cost. It is better not to purchase the cheapest kits, since their quality is not conducive to long-term use. This method of repair work will cost less than in a car repair shop.

Utility services are considered to be the culprit for unscheduled wear of pipes. Various chemical reagents and salts, generously scattered to combat, for example, ice, stimulate the rusting of the alloy several times and reduce the operating time of numerous elements allowed by the manufacturer. And another factor that forces us to often work on the braking system is the notorious domestic roads. When loaded, the tubes become deformed and burst. All together leads to the fact that the components quickly fail.

Benefits of technology

Bending of products can be done at home, but for this it is not recommended to use artisanal methods using a blank. This can lead to negative consequences:

a thin pipe, stainless or profile, easily wrinkles. An incorrectly deformed segment cannot be restored;
a stainless or other pipe runs the risk of rupture in those places where the tensile force of the walls is applied;
Heterogeneous, uneven deformation reduces the performance characteristics of the product. It breaks down faster.

Using a special set, the master receives the following advantages:

The risk of rupture is eliminated due to the gradual, uniform deformation of the product.
The same thickness of the pipe walls is maintained over the entire deformation area. Even products with defective walls of different thicknesses can be evenly flared with your own hands.
Rolling for copper pipes allows you to achieve a flat, smooth surface. The stainless steel pipe also gets an even structure.

Flaring machine

The master's kit often includes a flaring machine. The essence of its work is to rotate the cone. With its help, it is possible to perform mild deformation of the part.

Cutting of flared pipe

The machine demonstrates the following operating principle:

At the beginning of work, the pipe section is secured in a clamping pair. A small amount of lubricant is applied to its surface.
The cone rotates at an angle of 37˚ around the center axis. Deformation is carried out until the product acquires the required shape.
Afterwards, flanging is done using a cone at an angle of 90˚.

This action of the machine may differ:

automated operating principle;
touch control;
electronics aimed at adjusting the cone stroke.

Eccentric flaring tool

The rolling set, containing an eccentric tool, is also aimed at deforming the pipe section due to the rotational movements of the cone.

The advantage of using the device is the progressive, smooth and uniform expansion of the pipe walls.

Among the advantages of using such a device are:

the possibility of product rupture in places where the segment is modified is eliminated;
the master receives a product with uniform wall thickness;
a flat and smooth surface allows you to obtain a maximum strong connection at the joint;
The kit allows you to quickly deform the pipe and continue installation of the system.

Read also: How to properly connect a four-core cable
The eccentric set makes it possible to perform rolling at an angle of 45˚. It can handle stainless or copper pipes with a diameter of 6 to 18 mm. The device is characterized by mobility and is therefore suitable for home use.

How to flare copper pipes? (video)

Stages and rules for flaring

In order to obtain a final product suitable for pipeline installation, you should adhere to the following rolling steps:

clean the end of the segment and put a special coupling on it;
insert it into the device and tighten the screw so that the edge is in the 45˚ position;
remove the end of the section from the device and insert the coupling to form a joint between two pieces of pipe.

If you have no experience in rolling, it is recommended to use a piece with a margin of 2.5 cm. If unsuccessful, you can cut off the damaged piece and try again.

In addition to couplings, soldering can also be used. The principle of its application is the same, although the sequence of actions may differ slightly:

Clean the edge of the pipe with a brush.
Install the section into the device and expand it to the size of the diameter of the pipe into which you plan to insert the product. The gap should not exceed 0.124 mm.
Apply flux to the inner section. Its installation is carried out at a depth equal to the diameter of the pipe.
Heat the joint with a torch until the solder begins to melt.
Fill the gaps at the joint with solder.

After making the connection, you need to place the piece on a horizontal surface and leave it until it cools.

The ends of these copper pipes are flared: expanded to a specific shape and prepared for connection

Self-flaring

A cheaper way is to make a homemade machine rather than purchase a brake pipe flaring kit. With the desire and minimal ability to work with your hands, there is nothing difficult about this. First you need to make a base (frame) for attaching the parts. You can make it up from two metal corners. Cut the corners to the required length with a grinding machine, drill 2 holes in them for fastening with bolts. This is completed in 15 minutes.

Having assembled the frame, you need to make holes for the tube and remove the chamfers on a drill press or drill. The most difficult is the production of punches (mandrels). You can order them to a turner.

If you decide to purchase a pipe flaring kit, don't go with the cheapest alternatives on the market. Yes, you can buy devices for 800 rubles, but they will probably be disposable parts. It has been determined that a more or less high-quality tube flaring kit cannot cost less than 2,000 rubles, or even more.

Often the body of the tube remains intact, but the structure of its head is destroyed. There may be other types of breakdowns:

coking of the thread as a result of liquid entering it;
contamination of connections, etc.

In such situations, if the length allows, you can simply cut off the defective part with a special tool. You can replace the entire tube if you carry out the following repairs.

Work order

The required piece of tube is cut with a pipe cutter.
It is pressed with a holder so that the edge protrudes beyond it by 5-6 mm.
Instead of the cone, a stamp corresponding to the cross-section of the tube is installed.
The inner edge of the pipe is cleaned with something sharp; an ordinary knife will do just fine.
The end is slightly filed with a file.
The fitting is put on. The threads of the nut should be oriented toward the end of the tube, not toward the body.
The seal is screwed in with the end of the tube flattened. The main thing here is not to overdo it and not to flatten too deeply.
The stamp is knocked down and a cone is installed in its place. It must be screwed in carefully and without distortion.
The result should be a tube ringed with a nut with a holder at the end.
The finished tube is installed in place of the broken part, brake fluid is poured into the system, and then passed through it.
The vehicle and system are tested for problems.

Having figured out how to flare the pipes yourself, provide yourself with a minimum amount of similar work in the future. To do this, install a copper tube in a special place. We assure you that you will need to remember about flaring much less often. Even with very active use of the machine, you will not need it in less than 3 years.

Pros and cons of do-it-yourself flaring

One of the advantages of do-it-yourself flaring is that you don’t need to pay someone for the work.

The downside is that your mechanism may only be needed once. An exception is if you purchase used cars with high mileage, which were in bad, negative circumstances or were in accidents, and change them quite often.

Whether to carry out repairs according to the instructions yourself or to entrust them to professionals is a personal decision, but it is necessary to constantly monitor the condition of the entire brake system and pipes.

So, to summarize, it can be noted that the work of flaring pipes is not very labor-intensive and complicated. You need to understand that most of the repair work on a steel friend can be easily done on your own. And this is very significant, because by fixing the problem yourself, you can not only save money, but also do the job better than any car mechanic. The main thing is to follow the instructions.

Rolling: what does it mean?

The term is used to refer to the following processes.

Rolling - the main technological operation in the production of a seamless pipeline is the formation of a product from a round billet. The workpiece is stretched, thinned and calibrated on the appropriate equipment - rollers. Hence the name.
Flaring does not require the participation of rollers and can be done by hand. Its essence is to increase the diameter of the pipe edge using mechanical action. This need often arises when connecting straight segments.

A high-quality joint involves inserting one section into the sleeve - expanding, another and sealing the gap. But since not all products have such a sleeve, you have to do the operation yourself. In everyday life, flaring is usually understood as this process.

Rolling is the reverse operation: crimping the edge of the pipe before inserting it into the sleeve. If manual threading involves cutting the thread, the edge of the pipeline also needs to be reduced in volume - rolled. Conventional pliers or miniature rollers are used for this.
Bending – Most pipe bending machines, both manual and hydraulic, include rollers. The product is inserted into the machine, the deforming roller is rolled along the length of the segment and gradually bent at the required angle. Since the operation involves rollers, this process is also often called flaring. Water pipelines made of stainless steel and aluminum are subject to bending.

Only the second option can be legitimately called this - increasing the diameter of the edge before joining. GOST regulates the qualitative and quantitative characteristics of the rolling result.

How to flare brake pipes yourself

The main condition for successful pipe end flaring has always been and will be the use of high-quality, or better yet professional, tools. For our cars, Europe-Asia, buy metric flaring kits. The Americans look more than decent, sparkling with chrome, but they can slip an inch system. The old Soviet standard for a copper brake pipe was 8 mm, more recent Soviet and Russian versions used 6 mm steel.

In terms of choice, the most affordable is the Force 656B, 906T2 brake pipe flaring kit; you can use the more elegant JonnesWay kits, or the common Biltema or Licota.

The flaring tool kit includes:

a screw rolling press and a clamp, which is used to tighten the vise bars and deform the metal of the brake tube;
two split clamp bars with six to seven holes with cones into which tubes for flaring are clamped;
cutting device that allows you to cut off the end in a strictly perpendicular direction;
a set of mandrels and cones of various diameters for the formation of fungi.

When choosing a flaring kit, pay attention to the following points. First, the screw pairs of the screw-nut of the press and the clamps should be matte black. This indicates heat treatment and hardening of the screw surface. A cheaper option uses chrome plating.

Secondly, the accuracy of the calibrated holes in the vise bars. Typically, the inner surface of the cones is coated with a protective phosphate-based oxide film. This coating facilitates the sliding of the deformed metal along the inner surface of the matrix.

Third, all calibrated holes have numerical markings of sizes, indicating units of measurement - millimeters or inches, punched by embossing to a depth of up to 0.1 mm, without additional chrome plating or painting. Alternatively, the entire structure can have an oxidized coating. Non-working parts can be painted with plain light paint.

Procedure for flaring brake pipes using a fungus with your own hands:

select from the set a device for precise perpendicular cutting of the end of the brake pipe, insert it into a hole of the appropriate diameter, tighten the screw and turn the cutter a couple of times until it stops;
there is also a sharp semicircular saw for removing internal chamfers and burrs;
after filing the end of the brake pipe with a file, place a fitting nut on the pipe and secure the end in a vice with a clamp, observing the amount of release of the end of the pipe above the plane of the vice;
add a couple of drops of brake fluid to the end of the tube, insert a mandrel of the appropriate size and press down on the edges of the tube, obtaining a fungus.

If, according to the flaring conditions, it is necessary to obtain the American version of the fitting, a cone is inserted into the clamp, and the edges of the upper part of the fungus are pressed under the cone of the matrix. Sometimes a ratchet is built into the design of the clamp, which allows you to limit the force applied to the surface of the fitting.

If flaring needs to be done quickly and at a large number of points, in the case of copper pipes, a simpler tool is used - pliers and a rotary roller.

The plasticity and pliability of copper does not require much effort to deform the metal, so it is faster and easier to flare the end with the force of your hand. Due to the compactness of the device, the pliers can be used for flaring brake pipes directly on the car, in conditions where it is difficult to carry out work with a standard set.

Obtaining a conical socket

To understand the technology of the process, we can take the example of flaring copper tubes. The work order is as follows:

The pipe is carefully trimmed. For high-quality flaring, the angle between the end and the plane must be strictly 90 degrees.
Metal processing of the working part consists of cleaning and removing burrs and oxides.
A threaded coupling is placed on the tube.
The workpiece is clamped in the frame in a mounting hole of the appropriate diameter. The end of the pipe (working part) should protrude a few millimeters above the frame.
When screwing in the screw, press the flaring cone against the end and apply pressure until the deformation of the area reaches the limit - a skirt is formed, beveled at an angle of 45 degrees.
The workpiece is removed from the bed, the coupling is moved to the machined edge.

To make it easier to apply the cone to the workpiece, it is better to cover the working surface with a lubricant. Move the screw back and forth, gradually achieving the desired result - this will help avoid possible rupture of the metal in the deformation area.

Working with a manual expander has its own algorithm of actions:

The end of the workpiece is pushed onto the appropriate diameter of the head until it stops (there are several diameters available).
While holding the stationary handle, the movable handle is moved around the circumference, thereby spreading the jaws of the head. The work is carried out without violence, so as not to rupture the pipe.
After obtaining an expansion of the diameter, remove the workpiece from the tool.
Check the ease of entry of the second pipe into the resulting socket.

Features of flaring brake pipes

Steel brake pipes, unlike copper ones, have practically no reserve of ductility, so fungus and funnel can result in the formation of a large number of microcracks. In this sense, the rolled edge of the fungus remains less sensitive to the presence of microcracks, unless, of course, they are located only in the area of the hole. If cracks have formed on the periphery, in the widest part of the fitting, this option is definitely subject to rejection.

For American double funnels, it is often possible to use only copper brake pipe. In extreme cases, if there is an urgent need to flare a steel tube according to the American standard, the procedure is performed in two or three stages. At the first stage, after cutting and filing the end of the tube, it is flared to fit the fungus. Next, the resulting version is subjected to short-term annealing by heating with a burner, which makes it possible to relieve a significant part of the stress in the metal. The third stage will be flaring at an intermediate angle of 25-30°, instead of the required 45°, and repeated annealing. The last thing to do is final flaring to the desired funnel size.

If possible, before flaring the tube, it is worth practicing making a steel American funnel on an unnecessary piece of pipe made of a similar material.

The video shows the process of flaring brake pipes:

What is flaring

Flaring refers to the process of obtaining a conical skirt at the end of a pipe. The diameter of such a formation exceeds the diameter of the starting material. This is possible due to the stretching of the metal. The larger the cross-section of the flared section, the smaller the thickness of its wall. Any pipes made of soft material (aluminum, copper, their alloys, some brands of stainless steel) can be flared manually. The hard metal is machined. Flaring should not be confused with pipe rolling.