Throughout the long winter, we look forward to pleasant summer days, and with the onset of hot weather, for some reason we begin to dream of coolness. How delightfully a light breeze created by a small homemade fan will help restore strength and relieve fatigue. Plus, making it is incredibly fun, right?
We invite you to familiarize yourself with step-by-step instructions for assembling simple, effective devices from literally waste raw materials. The article presented to your attention describes in detail how to make a fan with your own hands and what a home craftsman will need for this.
At your disposal is a detailed description of the manufacture of options, the effects of which have been tested in practice. You can make such devices yourself without having any experience at all. For a complete understanding of the information, step-by-step photos and video instructions are included.
A simple homemade product from CDs
The simplest fan can be made from CD discs. It can be used, for example, for local impact on a user who spends a long time at the computer.
Let's prepare the raw materials to complete the work:
- CD discs – 2 pcs.;
- low-power motor;
- wine bottle cork;
- cable with USB plug;
- a tube or rectangle made of thick cardboard;
- soldering iron;
- candle or lighter, hot glue;
- pencil, ruler, squared paper.
For our purposes, you can use a motor from an old toy, for example, from a toy car. A toilet paper roll slightly decorated with decorative finishing paper can be used as a cardboard tube.
The main advantage of this model is that almost any do-it-yourselfer will have all the materials needed for its manufacture.
The assembly process of the mini fan is quite simple.
Let's take one of the CDs and use a marker to divide its surface into eight equal sections. The easiest way to do this is to use a sheet of checkered paper.
Draw a cross on it from a horizontal and vertical line. We divide each of the four resulting right angles in half. Using cells, this is not difficult to do.
Using a very simple method using a checkered piece of paper, we can achieve the ideal layout of the disk into eight equal sectors
We place a disk on our drawing so that the intersecting lines are in the very center of its hole. Alternately applying a ruler to the lines diverging from the center, we make markings on the disk. This way the sections will be the same.
To divide the disk into blades, follow the marking lines with a soldering iron from the transparent part to the edge.
You can also use scissors for cutting, but there is a danger that the workpiece will crack during the process. If you don’t have a soldering iron, you need to use a knife preheated on the stove. When working with a soldering iron, deposited plastic is formed along the edges of the cut, which can be easily removed with a knife.
Cutting a disk with a soldering iron is the most effective method in which the workpiece will not crack or deform, and the remnants of the deposited plastic can be easily removed with a knife
We heat the surface of the disk over the flame of a burning candle so that the blades can be slightly expanded. If you don't have a candle, a lighter or a soldering iron will do.
The central part of the disk should be heated, and all blades should be turned in the same direction. A wine cork is placed in the hole of the disc. To fix it better, you need to pre-treat the edges of the hole with hot glue.
The USB cable must be connected to the motor. If we don’t guess the direction of rotation of the propeller, we can swap the reins, that is, change the polarity.
The motor needs to be glued to a cardboard tube, and the tube itself to a second CD, which will act as the base of the stand.
When the plug is installed in the hole, the stand from the second CD and cardboard tube, as well as the connecting device are already assembled, it is very important to correctly fit the propeller onto the motor shaft
Now the propeller needs to be “planted” on the rod of the future fan. We will try to make sure that it is installed strictly in the center. You can secure it in this position using hot glue.
After all work is completed, the fan is ready for use.
Although the construction of this device will not take you much time, the result of the work performed will undoubtedly please you
How to make a similar, but slightly more complex design by including a regulator in the circuit, look at the video posted at the end of this article.
Do you find these homemade instructions complicated? Then you may be interested in information about the types of fans and the rules for choosing them in order to purchase a ready-made device offered by manufacturers of household appliances.
Which materials are definitely not suitable?
The following materials are absolutely not suitable for constructing fan blades and cones:
- Paper is the most unsuitable material for creating a fan at home. The reason is simple - paper is very impractical due to its properties. It immediately gets wet if drops of water get on it. Even high humidity in the room can damage a paper device. However, some inventors make such devices for decorative purposes. Of course, such a fan will work from the wind. For a more durable paper device, you will need cardboard from boxes.
Decorative paper fan - Wood is also an unsuitable material, since wood is not plastic in its properties. It is more difficult to make blades and a cone from it. But if you try, a wooden cone for a homemade device will last a long time in proper conditions without dampness and moisture.
Making a homemade fan at home is not a difficult task. All you need to do is purchase the necessary material and follow the instructions in this article.
Fan based on a plastic bottle
What our craftsmen don’t do from plastic bottles! The time has come to say that they also make a very good fan. It may not ventilate your entire room, but it will definitely help those who have to work at a computer.
We offer two options for creating such a fan model.
Option #1 - hard plastic model
To complete the work we will need:
- plastic bottle with a capacity of 1.5 liters;
- a motor from an old toy;
- small switch;
- Duracell battery;
- marker;
- scissors;
- candle;
- hammer and nail;
- Styrofoam;
- hot glue gun.
So, we take an ordinary 1.5 liter plastic bottle with a stopper. At the level of the label line, cut off its upper part. This is exactly what we need to make the propeller. We divide the surface of the plastic blank into six parts.
We try to mark it out so that we get equal sectors: the quality of operation of the future device depends on this.
We cut the workpiece along the markings almost to the neck. We bend the blades of the future propeller and cut off every second of them. We are left with a blank with three blades equidistant from each other. The edges of each blade must be rounded. We do this carefully.
To remove those parts of the blades that are closer to the neck of the workpiece, it is better to use a utility knife; do not forget to round the edges of the blades
Now we will need a small candle. Let's light it up. We heat each blade at the base on it to turn it in the direction we need. All blades must be turned in the same direction. Remove the lid from the workpiece and punch a hole in the very center using a nail and hammer.
We place the plug on the rod of a small motor. Such motors can remain from old children's toys. As a rule, getting them is not difficult. Secure the cork with glue.
Now you need to make a base on which the motor will rest. For this purpose, we take, for example, a piece of polystyrene foam. We attach a rectangle to it, which can also be cut out of foam packaging.
Our motor, to which the propeller is attached, will be fixed on the upper surface of this rectangle. To do this, you need to make a recess in the foam that corresponds to the parameters of the motor.
Hot melt adhesive is used to secure the elements of the product. If it is unavailable, other adhesives can be used. It is important that the fastening itself is as reliable as possible.
Polystyrene foam is a convenient material for constructing a fan stand, because it is easy to give it the desired shape, but it is better to make the base of the stand heavier.
A small switch and a power supply, the role of which is played by a rectangular Duracell battery, are attached to a foam stand. We assemble the simplest chain, trying to do everything as carefully as possible.
All we have to do is screw the propeller onto the plug fixed on the motor. Our fan is completely ready for operation.
The foam stand probably weighs too little to give the device the necessary stability. After all, with a sufficient span of blades, it can turn out to be quite powerful. Therefore, it is advisable to make the base of the model heavier.
Option #2 - soft polymer product
Let's prepare in advance everything that we will need during the work:
- two bottles of SevenUp lemonade;
- electric motor 12 V DC;
- seven thick straws for drinks;
- connector for power supply;
- the power supply itself;
- switch;
- scissors and utility knife;
- marker;
- hot glue gun;
- Super glue;
- plastic ties;
- wire cutters;
- soldering iron;
- insulating tape;
- CD disk.
So, there is another option for building a homemade fan from a plastic bottle. Let's take a bottle of smaller capacity, for example, SevenUp lemonade.
The algorithm for cutting the blades of the future propeller is the same as in the previous version. The plastic of this bottle is much softer, so you can give the desired slope to future blades without resorting to heating them.
A hole in the center of the cork should be made using an awl or nail heated over a fire for this purpose. The 12 V DC electric motor, on the shaft of which the propeller will be attached, can be taken from old toys or a hairdryer that is unnecessary in the household.
The cover is fixed to the shaft using hot melt adhesive. We immediately screw the light propeller to the lid.
When talking about this option for constructing a fan, we mentioned seven tubes, but if the tubes you have have a smaller diameter, you will need more of them: you need them to fit tightly into the neck of the lower workpiece
The most interesting thing is the construction of the stand. It turns out to be not only stable, but also attractive. To create it you will need seven thick drinking straws. It is necessary to glue them together with superglue. It turns out to be quite a strong and attractive stand.
For the base, take the top part of a plastic bottle larger than the one from which we made the propeller. We push the stand of tubes into the neck of the workpiece, approximately to the middle of its length. We fix the stand in this position using superglue applied to the neck of the workpiece.
Now you can install the engine on the rack, securing it with hot glue. The fact that the stand itself is made of hollow tubes helps hide the wires nicely. We simply pass them through the central tube. This way the wires end up inside the base of the device.
To further strengthen the structure, you should use plastic ties, which are glued with hot glue to the stand on the sides of the motor so that the tie lock is tightened over the motor itself, ensuring its immobility. The excess tip of the fastener is removed with pliers.
In the plastic surface of the bottle, which serves as the base of the structure, holes are cut for the power supply connector and switch. It is better to do this with a utility knife.
We connect the connector for the power supply and the switch. The wires should be soldered and insulated. The switch and connector are fixed to the plastic with hot glue.
The CD disk, which becomes the bottom for the base of the future fan, is not only the finishing touch of the work, but also makes the product more stable
To make the base heavier and more stable, we will build a bottom for it from a CD.
To do this, lubricate the edges of the plastic blank with hot glue and press the disk against it.
The motor is connected to the power supply via a connector, and the device itself is turned on using the red button located on the left
Now we connect power through the connector. For this purpose, you can use a power supply for LED strips, which is sold in electrical appliance stores. Well, this homemade product is ready to go.
To make sure that you correctly understand the sequence of work performed, watch the video at the end of this article.
As a result…
DIY ventilation systems for the workshop are ready. Ventilation is a must in every professional workshop; it removes harmful fumes, poisonous gases, as well as dust and dirt that have settled in the air. Additionally, ventilation creates an air flow and displaces exhaust air from the room with new air from the street. I talked about three ways to create a homemade ventilation system for various purposes. What type to make for your needs is up to you to decide.
Question
Write in the comments why do you think dispersed dust is so dangerous for humans?
Stylish product without blades
We are accustomed to the fact that the main part of the fan is the propeller. This design part rotates, creating the necessary air flow.
But there are also bladeless models. They have become fashionable, primarily due to their safety for younger family members and pets. In addition, these products look stylish: they can fit into any interior and decorate it.
The finished bladeless fan is completely different from the device we are used to seeing, however, it works great
Like most other things that serve a person, a bladeless fan can also be made with your own hands.
The principle of its operation is simple: at the base of the device there is a small turbine, which allows you to create air flows passing through the side openings.
For work we will need:
- computer cooler;
- power supply unit and connector;
- small switch;
- hot glue gun;
- cardboard or thick paper;
- scissors, pencil, ruler, compass and caliper.
In principle, we need a caliper solely in order not to make a mistake in the dimensions of the product. If it is not available, then you can get by with a regular ruler, tape measure or measuring tape.
Let's get to work.
First, let's make the body - the base of the product. To do this, cut out four rectangular pieces of cardboard. To determine the parameters of the base, measure the width of the cooler. The resulting size will match the width of the rectangles.
For convenience, we will operate with specific sizes. The width of our cooler is 120 mm. This means that the width of the rectangle is also 120 mm.
A small switch and power connector will be built into the body of our product. In order for them to stay tight enough in the future, you need to take measurements from them.
The holes in the housing must correspond to the obtained values. You need to make holes until the rectangles become part of the body: cutting them out in flat objects is always easier.
We need a twelve-volt power supply and a corresponding cooler that consumes only 0.25A. Taking into account the fact that we have a 2A unit, we can assume that we are quite well prepared for the further operation of the future device.
Now we take sheets of cardboard from which we have to cut out the elements of the main part of the fan. First, let's draw two circles. The radius of each of them is 15 cm. Cut out both circles.
In one of them, let's call it A, we will draw an inner circle with a radius of 11 cm. In the second, which we will call B, the radius of the inner circle will be 12 cm. Carefully cut out the inner circles. We received rings A and B.
The resulting rings will be attached to the body of the product. In order for them to better adhere to the surface of the body, we will apply one of the rectangular blanks to each of the rings and cut off a segment, the flat side of which corresponds to the width of the rectangle.
In order to reliably glue the rings to the base on which they will be installed, it is necessary to ensure the maximum contact area: for this purpose, a sector is cut off at the bottom of the product
The main part of a bladeless fan is cylindrical in shape. To make it, we need strips of cardboard with the following parameters: the first - 12x74cm, the second - 12x82cm, the third -15x86cm. During the assembly process it will become clear what to do with each of these three strips.
Before assembling the body, cut a notch in the bottom of each rectangle. This way we not only make legs for the future fan, but also create channels for incoming air.
The recesses in the lower part of the base can be made in a rectangular shape, but it is better to add an arc to the original rectangle, drawing it using a CD disk
We will assemble the body using hot melt glue. The cooler should be located approximately in the central part of the case, surrounded by four rectangles that form the walls of the structure. Lubricate the cooler around the perimeter with glue and surround it with walls.
Don't forget that the notches in the walls that we just cut should be at the bottom of the case.
The wires from the cooler can be tucked into a corner of the structure, securing them in this position with glue.
At this stage it is best to mount and connect. Since we are using a switch, we need to split one of the wires and form a circuit.
The wires should be connected to the power connector (red - positive, black - negative). If we get the polarity wrong, we just need to swap the wires. Using hot glue, we secure the connector and switch in the places intended for them.
We connect the power and check if the turbine is working. If everything is in order, we continue assembling our bladeless model.
We take ring A, which will be located in the front of the device, and the first strip (12x74cm). We close the strip into a circle and glue it into the inner circumference of ring A. The result is something like a cylinder hat without a top, but with a brim. The same must be done with ring B and the second strip (12x82cm).
This kind of hat came out of ring A and the first strip that we glued along the inner circumference of the ring
We glue the first “cylinder” to the front side of the body in the place where we cut off the segment. We also glue the second “cylinder” to the back side of the body with a cut surface. In this case, the smaller “cylinder” ends up inside the larger one.
The stability of the structure can be imparted using five strength partitions, fixed between the rings using the same glue. They need to be cut out of cardboard. The length of the partitions should be slightly less than 12cm.
Now the side surface of the main structure should be covered with the remaining third strip of cardboard (15x86cm).
This photo shows the internal structure of the fan quite clearly, which will be hidden from us by the last (third) strip
In principle, the fan is ready. All that remains is to give it an external gloss. To do this, remove excess glue and cover its outer surfaces with paint or decorative paper.
You may also find the information on fan speed controls contained in our other article useful.
So that you can see how correctly you understood and did everything, watch the video on how to create a bladeless fan yourself, which we placed at the end of this article.
If you are interested in assembling interesting and useful devices, then you may be interested in the information about making an air conditioner at home, discussed in our other article.
And in the cold season, you can assemble a heater or a homemade fan heater using a minimum of materials.
Review and comparison of production models
Ready-made fans have stable and stable performance characteristics and provide high-quality operation with low noise levels. If you have an extensive system of air ducts that distribute sound throughout all rooms, the use of low-noise equipment is very important. Let's consider the performance characteristics of several industrial designs in order to know what to start from when designing your own product:
Low pressure radial fans BP 80-75
They have a fairly high productivity (from 370 to 71000 m3/h depending on the fan number). The pressure is in the range of 0.37-1820 Pa. They are used in general ventilation systems or as part of process equipment.
- -20%
Low pressure radial fans VR 80-75 (VR 86-77)VR 80-75 No. 10 11 kW 750 rpm
out of 5
223 600 ₽ 178 880 ₽Select...Add to Wishlist
- -20%
Low pressure radial fans VR 80-75 (VR 86-77)
VR 80-75 No. 10 15 kW 1000 rpm
out of 5
227 600 ₽ 182 000 ₽Select...Add to Wishlist
- -20%
Low pressure radial fans VR 80-75 (VR 86-77)
VR 80-75 No. 10 18.5 kW 1000 rpm
out of 5
255 800 ₽ 204 640 ₽Select...Add to Wishlist
- -20%
Low pressure radial fans VR 80-75 (VR 86-77)
VR 80-75 No. 10 22 kW 1000 rpm
out of 5
288 000 ₽ 230 400 ₽Select...Add to Wishlist
Medium pressure radial fans VTs 14-46
The pressure indicator for this model range is increased, as is the productivity, reaching up to 127,000 m3/h for large numbers. Such installations are used in large branched ventilation systems with a long length of air ducts.
- -20%
Medium pressure radial fans VTs 14-46 (VR 300-45, VR 280-46)VTs 14-46 No. 2 0.18 kW 1500 rpm
out of 5
13 840 ₽ 11 070 ₽Select...Add to Wishlist
- -20%
Medium pressure radial fans VTs 14-46 (VR 300-45, VR 280-46)
VTs 14-46 No. 2 0.25 kW 1500 rpm
out of 5
15 170 ₽ 12 130 ₽Select...Add to Wishlist
- -20%
Medium pressure radial fans VTs 14-46 (VR 300-45, VR 280-46)
VTs 14-46 No. 2 0.37 kW 1500 rpm
out of 5
15 440 ₽ 12 350 ₽Select...Add to Wishlist
- -20%
Medium pressure radial fans VTs 14-46 (VR 300-45, VR 280-46)
VTs 14-46 No. 2 1.1 kW 3000 rpm
out of 5
18 940 ₽ 15 150 ₽Select...Add to Wishlist
Dust fans VCP 7-40
They are used as part of the technological cycle to move fine bulk materials. They are used for transporting grain, cereals, and for removing sawdust or shavings. The peculiarity of this group is the design of the impeller, which has a small number of blades. This eliminates the risk of material getting stuck between the impeller elements.
- -15%
Dust fans VCP 7-40VTSP 7-40 No. 10 11 kW 750 rpm
out of 5
366 250 ₽ 311 312 ₽Select...Add to Wishlist
- -15%
Dust fans VCP 7-40
VTSP 7-40 No. 10 22 kW 1000 rpm
out of 5
400 590 ₽ 340 500 ₽Select...Add to Wishlist
- -15%
Dust fans VCP 7-40
VCP 7-40 No. 10 75 kW 1500 rpm
out of 5
469 020 ₽ 398 667 ₽Select...Add to Wishlist
- -29%
Dust fans VCP 7-40
VCP 7-40 No. 12.5 30 kW 750 rpm
out of 5
711 130 ₽ 504 460 ₽Select...Add to Wishlist
Centrifugal fan 220 V
- Top seller
-17%Fan 220V
Direct installation of the system
We have sorted out the choice of requirements for the house, and therefore the installation itself will not be difficult. If the channels will pass under the ceiling, then use special hangers, among which you can get by with hangers for installing drywall. Plastic pipes fit well together without the need to seal the joints. Later, after finishing, they can be covered with tension fabric. In places where the pipe will go down the wall, use brackets.
Assemble the chain in the correct sequence. First install a supply valve, then a recirculation unit, then exhaust and supply type manifolds, and an air heater in the form of a recuperator. Disconnect the supply/discharge system, install diffusers and flow frames.
As a little advice, you can replace the plastic base with a special corrugation that bends at the desired angle. This will help avoid connections, and will simply allow the air transmission channel to be laid along the shortest path. If the corrugated material has to be combined, then you can use 21st self-tapping screws, which could be used for installing drywall . The self-tapping screws are screwed in end-to-end, and the joint is additionally sealed.
Forced exhaust by additional means
The need to install additional means of forced exhaust may arise for natural reasons, for example, trees have grown on the site, which has changed the direction or intensity of wind flows.
Watch the video
We increase chimney draft artificially
You can, of course, rebuild the house or redo the chimneys, but this path is very expensive and labor-intensive. It is easier and cheaper to use forced ventilation devices. To improve the hood, the following additional devices are used.
Poor hood - reasons
Before we talk about the use of forced draft devices for chimneys, let us dwell on the essence of the process, as well as the reasons for the drop in draft in the pipe.
The set of factors influencing the efficiency of chimney exhaust can be divided into three groups:
- Internal conditions in the house;
- Conditions for the movement of air flows indoors.
- Air temperature in the heated zone of a residential building.
- The total volume of air inside the rooms, which are connected to the combustion chamber of the furnace through the ash pan.
- The number of other oxygen consumers living in the house - people or animals.
The draft of the chimney can be influenced by side factors that depend on the design of the house, as well as the changes made to it. For example, installing double-glazed windows instead of conventional windows leads to a drop in traction force, since the latter are more airtight and reduce the flow of oxygen from the atmosphere into the house.
- External factors:
- Humidity and air temperature.
- The size of the atmospheric pressure.
- The activity and strength of rising air currents.
- The intensity of inversion air currents in the direction from top to bottom.
- Energy and direction of wind flows.
The combined effect of the above factors leads to constant changes in chimney draft; this process must be constantly monitored to ensure optimal removal of combustion products from stoves, fireplaces and other heating units.
- How do chimney design factors influence
- The location of the chimney is external (wall) or internal.
- The length of the chimney pipe and the number of elbows and transfers.
- Characteristics of the quality of the exhaust surface inside the duct - on a rough surface, soot accumulates more actively, which is the main reason for the deterioration of draft inside the chimney.
- The height of the chimney and the position of the top point of the chimney relative to the roof ridge.
- Chimney shape: rounded or oval shaped works best, square or rectangular shaped works worse.
- The intensity of heat exchange through the chimney body, the better the pipe walls are insulated, the better the hood.
The influence of the factors in the first section can be conditionally controllable when it does not concern a ready-made chimney. The factors indicated in the second section are absolutely independent, but you can easily adapt to them by using them to improve the hood.
The factors of the third section are completely dependent on the person and can be influenced starting from the design stage, and upon receipt of the finished hood, the shortcomings can be eliminated during repairs - installing a round liner inside the pipe, insulating the walls of the chimney, changing its external structure.
Use of factory parts
Let's return to the presence of conditionally unnecessary computer components in the home workshop. For example, a cooler from a power supply or system unit.
The electrical part of the work is reduced to a minimum. If the power is 5 volts, we work according to the scheme: USB cable. To supply 12 volts you will have to look for a power supply or a phone charger. In addition, there are “turbines” that are connected to a 220 volt network.
Actually, to make a fan from a computer cooler, you just need to fix it on some kind of stand. And if you use batteries instead of a USB cord, the flow of fresh air can be organized anywhere.
What is the operating principle of the exhaust system?
With the right approach to work, do-it-yourself exhaust ventilation is not such a complicated process as it might seem at first glance. True, this will require knowledge of the basics of ventilation, the ability to use a tool, as well as patience and free time. In general, the relevance of homemade ventilation systems can only be attributed to small houses and apartments.
Practice has shown that a supply and exhaust system works best. Its operating principle is revealed in the following aspects:
- The supply valve is the main one in the operation of the system. It is a place through which fresh air enters the house. In order for the air to be quickly distributed throughout the room, fans are installed that receive air and push it around the room, distributing the required volumes.
- Once the fan has passed through, the air enters the filter , where it undergoes a cleaning procedure. Here it can also go through a heating stage, which is an optional stage, since recuperators for heating are not present in all systems.
- After filtration is completed, the air is distributed indoors .
- As for the processed, already stale, hot carbon dioxide, it rises up to the ceiling. There is an exhaust hole through which, either naturally or mechanically, it comes out. Usually the second option is used, where a fan, through a channel in the form of an air duct, pushes it out.
As you can see, this solution requires significant costs at the time of arrangement. But, having invested once, you will receive comfortable housing that meets all the requirements and standards for living. The advantages of such a system include safety and efficiency, the ability to eliminate frequent illnesses of residents due to constant air circulation.
Design of an electric motor cooling fan impeller and its application
When choosing an electric motor cooling fan impeller, special attention should be paid to its design and application.
The design of the electric motor blowing impeller can be:
- Composite. The working blades are mounted on the manufactured mounting hub.
- One piece. The hub and blades are stamped as a single piece of sheet material.
The amount of air that reaches the cooled surfaces depends on the diameter of the impeller, the angle of attack of the blades, and the type of impeller relative to the direction of rotation. The impellers are forward curved, straight radial and backward curved.
Preventing the condition of the chimney
To avoid the need to use means of forced exhaust of a chimney made of heat-resistant material, it is necessary to use preventive means to maintain it in working condition.
Since the main reason for reducing the intensity of flue gas extraction is the reduction in the passage of the pipe by soot accumulated on the walls, we will consider means of combating this phenomenon.
These methods could be:
- Burning about half a tablespoon of naphthalene in the furnace firebox. Naphthalene vapor decomposes soot into loose components, large ones fall inside the firebox and are subsequently removed with the ash, and small ones fly out through the pipe along with the furnace gases. This product cannot be used for smoke removal from a fireplace and for pipes of open hearths - it leaves a characteristic suffocating smell in the rooms.
- From time to time, burn potato peelings in the firebox. They are pre-dried. Starch vapors loosen the soot deposit and it will fall into the firebox. Pure starch acts similarly, which is fed into a well-lit firebox in the amount of one tablespoon.
- A good way to remove soot from pipes is walnut shells. It burns at a high temperature, burning off soot deposits on the inner walls. A single dose of shells should be no more than three liters. Frequency of application - as accumulation occurs.
- Aspen firewood has a similar effect on soot. One or two logs are burned at the end of the last stack of firewood. They burn at high temperatures.
The frequency of use of high-temperature products should be regular, at least twice a week, so that soot does not have time to accumulate.
Otherwise, you can cause a serious fire, since the soot burns and releases a very large amount of heat. In addition to those listed, there are many anti-soot agents on the market for both chemical and thermal decomposition of soot. The use of preventive measures can eliminate the need for forced measures to improve the exhaust hood on the chimney.
Self-production
Let's consider how you can create a snail fan with your own hands, the drawings of which can be found on the Internet or made yourself.
Drawing
Video review
Working wheel
First of all, you need to get an impeller. This is important because it is a fairly massive element and requires good balancing . If the impeller beats even a little, the bearings of the electric motor (or its own drive shaft) will quickly fail. Ready-made impellers from fans or air conditioners are often used, but if you can’t find them, you’ll have to make them yourself.
Landing sleeve
First of all, you need to make a landing coupling. It is made on a lathe . The coupling is then attached to the sheet metal by welding or screws, clamped in a lathe and carefully centered. The result is a round disk with a seating sleeve in the center. Markings are made on it and the blades are attached. Making a drum-type impeller with your own hands is impractical, since high-quality balancing of homemade elements is impossible.
Frame
For the body, sheet steel or, as in the example in the video, wood is used. A strip 0.5-1 cm wider than the thickness of the impeller is cut out of it. The strip is bent, giving it the shape of a snail. This is the side of the body. Then two identical parts are made, repeating the profile of the side element.
One of the parts will become the outer side of the housing; a suction hole is made and a flange is secured for mounting air ducts or grilles. The second part is attached to the motor housing and has a hole for the passage of its shaft. It is secured to the engine with bolts , the side curved part is welded to it with a continuous seam without gaps. Bolts are welded to the edge, which will press the outer part with the suction hole.
