Meisel with your own hands. file turning tool


turning tool necessary for working on a lathe. A high-quality tool is very expensive, so one chisel costs from 3 thousand rubles, and the cost of some can reach 20 thousand rubles. Not everyone is ready to shell out that kind of money for turning chisels, taking into account that for work it is necessary to have 3 or 4 cutters of various configurations.

In this article I will talk about the types of turning cutters , their purpose and methods of making them yourself from blade to handle.

I won’t drag it out and start talking about what kind of incisors there are and what they are needed for.

Meisel (oblique incisor)

A turning tool with a flat blade and a sharpened blade at an angle of 45-55 degrees. Meisel is necessary for almost all types of work: turning, trimming, finishing parts. The width of the lathe chisel can vary from 10 to 40 mm, the thickness within 4 – 6 mm, despite the fact that the wider the blade, the thicker it should be.

Reyer (semicircular chisel)

Semicircular turning tools are needed for rough roughing of the workpiece. A very useful cutter if you need to remove a large thickness. This type of chisel is very difficult to make on your own, because it is not easy to find a semicircular blank made of high-quality steel.

Flat cutter

The cutter is designed for turning smooth areas. The chisel blade is flat and comes in different widths depending on your needs. The thickness of the canvas is 4 – 6 mm.

Rounded cutter

It also has a flat blade of the same thickness of 4 – 6 mm and the width you need. Rounded turning tools are used for both rough roughing and finishing of concave areas of the product.

Parting lathe cutter

A cutting turning chisel (cutter) is needed for cutting products and processing cone-shaped recesses.

A significant advantage of purchased turning tools is that they are made of high-quality high-speed steel. It is the lack of high-quality material and tools for its processing that makes it difficult to make chisels at home.

I'll give you an example of how I made chisels myself. A turning chisel consists of a blade and a handle, which are naturally made separately. Let's start with making the canvas.

The main and probably the only tool I used when making a turning chisel was a grinder (angle grinder). But for work, I needed the following consumables:

  • cutting wheel
  • grinding wheel
  • Velcro plate
  • sandpaper of different grits (from 80 to 600)

As a blank, I took an old file.

Why a file? It's simple: fairly strong steel, blade thickness 6 mm and width about 40 mm, the file has a shank, which will make attaching the handle much easier.

I will make a reservation: if the length of the file allows you to make 2 blades, then by cutting the source on the second half you can use a grinder to cut out the shank. By the way, the length of the blade without a shank should be 150-180 mm.

I’ll tell you using the example of making a meisel - an oblique turning tool . The procedure is as follows:

Take a file and use a grinder to cut it at an angle of 40 degrees. Then, using a grinding wheel, we roughly sharpen the blade. Before you start, make sure you have a container of cold water to cool the blade you are sharpening.

In order not to overheat the steel, cool the workpiece more often and do not sharpen for too long. After the rough grinding is completed, we begin sharpening the blade using sandpaper. In order to work using this method, you need to fix the grinder on the workbench.

As you sharpen the blade, change the abrasive wheels to smaller ones, not forgetting to cool the workpiece.

When sharpening is finished, you need to round the bottom edge of the turning chisel and the face - the wide sides. For this job, I preferred using sandpaper.

Oddly enough, sandpaper did a much better job than a sanding wheel. The rounded bottom edge is needed so that the chisel can move more easily along the tool rest.

Do not forget that we used a file as the starting material, which without smoothing will be very difficult to move along the tool rest.

The next step will be making a handle for a turning chisel .

It turns out to be a small vicious circle: we need turning tools to make turning tools . I had a couple of similar chisels of simply terrible quality. One is rounded from an old chisel, the other is a meisel from a piece of raw metal, which became dull almost from one blow on a branch.

It's just a sad sight, but, nevertheless, with their help I managed to turn out several handles. The materials I used were: larch, apple, cherry, pine, cedar.

Based on my experience, I will say that it is better not to use pine and cedar, because they make the handle very light, which makes the turning chisel very inconvenient.

The design of the handle was partially looked at on the Internet, and partially made for myself. The length turned out to be 280 mm. You can download the drawing of a handle for a turning chisel from the link and use it both for clarity and as a template. Do not forget that you will need a copper or brass ring approximately 20 mm wide so that the handle does not burst when inserting the blade.

So. When both the handle and the blade of the turning chisel are ready, all that remains is to connect them. We stuff the prepared ring onto the neck of the handle. We take a drill and a drill with a diameter slightly smaller than the diameter of the shank. Drill a hole exactly in the center with a depth equal to the length of the shank. If the hole is not made exactly in the center, then the handle and the blade will connect at an angle.

Carving tools

General principles

Wood carving is a fairly popular technique for decorating various products.

As a rule, the process itself follows this scheme:

  • First, a blank is made from wood, be it a flat board, a block or a figured blank.
  • Note! Sometimes undisturbed parts of trees are decorated with carvings. In this case, a fragment is selected whose shape has maximum decorative potential.

      Then a rough leveling of the surface of the workpiece is performed, during which all defects are removed from it.

    A variety of tools are used for figured carving

    • After this, the surface is processed with special cutters, with the help of which a part of the wood is selected. Due to this, a decorative relief is formed.
    • After the actual carving is completed, finishing is carried out - grinding the cut areas, impregnation with protective compounds, full or partial painting, varnishing, etc.

    The most important tools in this process are the wood carving cutters. In addition to the skill of the carver himself, it is the quality and correct selection of the cutter that determines how clean the ornament or plot image on the wood will be.

    That is why below we will look at the main types of such tools and describe where and how they are used.

    Main types of incisors

    To create three-dimensional images, craftsmen use a variety of types of wood cutters. In principle, if you have the skill, you can do without some of the products listed below, but to achieve the best result, it is better to collect as extensive a set as possible and use each device for its intended purpose.

    Cranberries with blades of different shapes

    The main types of cutters are presented in the table below:

    VarietyApplication at work
    Blunt knives
    • They are knives with short blades in the shape of a triangle with different bevel angles.
    • They are a universal tool, therefore they can be used to form a wide variety of relief objects, ranging from straight lines to small indentations.
    • When working with a blunt knife, three functional zones are used: toe, blade and heel.
    ChiselsThe most common type of incisors. A typical chisel is a long rod with a cutting edge formed at the end.

    Depending on the shape of the chisel edge, there are:

    • Flat – used to form straight lines and recesses. Flat chisels with a wide blade are also used for roughing to cut or chip away surface defects.
    • Angle - used for cutting V-shaped grooves and notches, as well as for forming shaped elements. The smaller the angle of closure of the planes of such a chisel, the deeper the relief it forms.
    • Semicircular ones are one of the most common in figured carving. The rounded shape of the end blade allows you to effectively remove wood from the solid wood, forming a recess. Small semicircular chisels are also used for texturing and scoring smooth surfaces.
    • Bracket - functionally similar to semicircular, but when wood is removed, a groove is formed with clearly defined internal edges.
    • Reverse (round and bracket) - used to form semicircular and rectangular protruding parts, as well as to draw parallel lines.

    Wood chisels of most varieties can be produced with both straight and curved shafts. In the first case, the design of the tool allows it to be used together with a mallet, in the second, the carving is carried out solely by muscular force.

    Read also: Connection of aluminum and copper in a box

    Clukarza is usually used for finishing carvings with strong penetration, which allows the formation of a clear relief.

    Generally, these tools are classified by blade shape:

    • Direct.
    • Semicircular.
    • Oblique (distinguish between left and right incisors).
    • "Swallowtails".
    • Stapled.
    • Reverse.
    • Corner ones.

    The main function of this device is to remove wood cleanly and in large volumes.

    Spoon cutters of different shapes

    Additional accessories

    However, a master carver, in addition to chisels and knives of various shapes and sizes, also requires other tools.

    The required minimum additional equipment includes:

    • Wood saws (hacksaw or reciprocating saw for rough work, bow saw for finishing work).
    • Jigsaws.
    • Drills and rotators.
    • Planers for leveling planes.
    • Set of wood files (rasps).
    • Mallet for processing hard wood with cutters.
    • Devices for sanding wood.

    Teslas of different sizes

    If the master works with fairly large structures, then in addition to simple cutters he may also need figured hatchets - the so-called adzes. According to the principle of operation, they are similar to cutters (naturally, adjusted for the scale and purity of the work).

    Tips for choosing

    If you are planning to master the technique of wood carving with your own hands, then you need to start by selecting the appropriate tool. And here we are faced with a dilemma: really high-quality cutters are quite expensive, but if you buy a set for beginners “on the cheap,” then working with inconvenient and constantly losing sharpness devices will discourage you from engaging in this type of creativity for a long time.

    Ready set of tools

    The optimal solution would be to buy several good cutters, and then, if necessary, expand your toolkit. To begin with, we will need at least one medium-sized blunt knife, as well as four to five chisels: one flat, several corner and semicircular ones with different blade curves.

    High-quality products from a foreign manufacturer

    As for specific instances, you need to pay attention to the following features:

    • The blade must be durable and well-hardened, free from rust and other defects.
    • The cutting part must be securely, without play, fixed in the handle.

    Note! This does not apply to knives with replaceable blades - in any case, they will have minimal play that you will have to put up with.

    • Handle material: wood or durable plastic. However, the second option is still somewhat worse, since the wooden handle fits much more comfortably in a sweaty hand.
    • Naturally, the handle should be even and smooth, without burrs or cracks.
    • If we talk about the shape of the handle, the most common are cylindrical options (suitable for impact carving with a mallet), conical and mushroom-shaped models.
    • Some manufacturers produce chisels and jambs with anatomically shaped handles equipped with finger grips, but many novice craftsmen have complaints about their convenience.
    • The manufacturing company also plays an important role: today on the market you can find both domestic and foreign forms that produce products of quite decent quality. But what you should refuse are the frankly cheap Chinese and some domestic cutters: yes, you will save on the purchase, but even if you cut these products, they won’t last long.

    How to make cutters for a wood lathe with your own hands, their prices

    The production of original wooden products on machines requires the availability of a variety of high-quality auxiliary tools. In most cases, wood lathe cutters are used for this. Thanks to them, it is possible to bring the workpiece to the required geometric parameters.

    Manufacturers offer all kinds of sets, including products with cutting edges of various configurations. You can also make your own wood cutting tools with your own hands.

    Wide selection of shapes and models

    When processing wood blanks professionally, it is important to correctly select the appropriate tool for wood turning. A wide selection and large sets with diverse tips will allow you to cover a significant part of the work.

    Varieties

    Based on functionality, wood chisels are usually divided into the following groups:

    • Rough peeling . The tool has a pair of working edges that meet at an acute angle. It is believed that this design is significantly safer than radius analogues.

    Raiser for rough roughing

    • Finish turning . Similar types of cutters for a wood lathe remove a small layer of chips and are not intended to give the workpiece a shape, but their purpose is to give external smoothness to the outer surface. Metal tips are available with left or right sharpening.

    Finishing tool

    • wood cutter They are used to work with non-standard surfaces.

    Shaped can have almost any configuration

    • Cut-off cutter . It is currently relevant for one operation in which it is necessary to separate some part from the workpiece.

    Cutting width 10 mm

    • Boring . With the help of such products, excess material that appears during the processing process is removed. A special ledge located in the cutting area helps in such an operation.

    Boring tool to remove excess wood

    • Round wood turning tools They are used for processing radius workpieces. The working part can be either radius or with small technological teeth.

    Reyer for turning bowls

    • Wood turning at the end is carried out using a conventional cutting file.
    • As auxiliary equipment, special stops are used on cutters that limit the depth of cut.

    In addition to the standard set, professionals use homemade wood lathe cutters in their work. This approach increases productivity and helps expand the range of finished products.

    If you plan to engage in wood processing for a long time, then you cannot do without high-quality tools, which are made from tool-grade steel. It is able to withstand high production intensity, which homemade products are not always capable of.

    Homemade wood turning tools

    The greatest difficulty in the production of each type of chisel for a lathe is the selection of blanks for the cutting part. In addition to ensuring appropriate hardness, you have to think about the possibility of installing the metal part in the holder. It will allow you to fix the cutter in the desired position for comfortable processing.

    Knives

    When working with wood, you cannot do without a good knife; when choosing this tool, you should give preference to the one that will be most convenient for processing wood. It is also important to find out what grade of steel was used in its manufacture.

    When choosing a knife from a foreign manufacturer, you need to compare the specified steel grade with a domestic analogue, and check what properties it has according to the steel grade.

    A good knife is characterized by a high carbon content with the addition of alloying elements.

    Knives for working with wood are divided into three types: folding, with a replaceable and fixed blade. A blade with a length of 40 to 50 mm and a thickness of 4 mm is considered optimal.

    Chisels for a wood lathe: types and sizes

    Creating wooden cylindrical products is impossible without a hand tool - a chisel for a lathe. It is from under its blade that the unnecessary amount of material is removed and the workpiece acquires an artistic decoration.

    Turning chisels can be bought ready-made, but such kits are very expensive, especially high-quality ones. Cutters for wood processing are easy to make yourself, which will be discussed further.

    What types of chisels are there?

    For professional processing of a wooden workpiece on a lathe, various working tools are required, including a rich set of chisels. Based on their functional role, they can be divided into groups:

    1. For rough processing. They have 2 cutting edges located at an angle to each other.
    2. Meisel for finishing. This cutter is a blade with a flat plane and an angular sharpening on the left or right side. The angle of inclination of the cutting part may be different.
    3. The semicircular reyer chisel is used for working with non-standard products.
    4. The cut-off cutter is used to remove fragments of wood when forming a pattern.
    5. A boring tool for wood turning has a shoulder to help remove excess material released during the pointing process.
    6. Round chisel for processing round products. Its tip can be smooth or jagged.
    7. Cutting file for processing the end sections of the workpiece.
    8. The cutter stop is installed on the tool to adjust the turning depth.

    Manufacturing and service

    Making the cutter yourself

    Many craftsmen, either wanting to save money or not trusting third-party manufacturers, prefer to use homemade carving tools. In principle, making a knife or chisel is quite simple, the main thing is to choose the right material.

    The photo shows a hacksaw blade and a simple jamb knife made from it

    The raw materials for our design can be used:

    • A saw blade for wood or metal is an almost ideal blank for a jamb knife. During the manufacturing process, we cut off a piece of blade on a machine or simply break it off at the angle we need, and then form a cutting edge.
    • The wood saw blade also has acceptable characteristics. The carbon steel used to produce such saws holds an edge well, which means that the cutter will not become dull even when working with hard wood.
    • Before making a semicircular chisel, you can look “in the bins” for an unnecessary punch. To make a tool, we will only need to cut off part of the wall diagonally - and we will get a very convenient device for sampling wood.

    An important part of any cutter is the handle.

    The instructions for its manufacture are also not complicated:

    • We take a block of hardwood and cut a handle out of it.
    • We make a hole at the end of the handle, the shape of which corresponds to the shape of the shank of the metal part.

    Gluing the blade into the handle

    • We glue the cutting part into the handle, and then clamp the structure with a metal ring.

    Note! Sometimes the handle is made of two halves. In this case, the blade can be additionally secured with screws or rivets, and gluing should be done in a vice or clamps.

    Sharpening cutters

    You can only get a decent result if you work with a perfectly sharp tool. And since even the softest wood dulls the blade quite quickly, sharpening wood cutters is definitely included in the “minimum program” of training for a novice carver.

    To perform this operation we will need:

    • Bars of different grain sizes - from coarse to fine.
    • Old leather belt for straightening.
    • GOI paste (or similar composition).

    We do the work like this:

    • First, we moisten a coarse-grained block, place the cutter on it at the selected angle and sharpen it using pressure from ourselves.
    • We switch to a block with medium abrasive grain and repeat the operations until a clearly defined sharpened edge appears.
    • We carry out the finishing on a diamond stone, removing the metal chamfer that appears on the tip of the cutter.
    • Then we apply a layer of GOI paste (a composition based on chromium oxide) to the belt and polish the working part to a mirror shine.

    Editing on the belt

    Advice! Finishing on the belt can be done more often than the main sharpening - this way we can correct a slightly dull blade.

    It’s easy to check the quality of our work: if the cutter cuts the newspaper without effort, it means we’ve done everything correctly, and we can start working on the workpiece.

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