Most car owners treat their four-wheeled friend with due reverence, trying to prevent scratches and other noticeable exterior defects. At the same time, enemy body number 1 always acts secretly, gradually, destroying the metal gradually. In many cases, corrosion processes begin from the inside or under the paintwork layer, so noticing them in time is not an easy task. There are many methods to combat rust - covering problem areas with a special anti-corrosion compound, timely painting over paint chips/scratches, but in many cases the most adequate action will be galvanizing the body. Some automakers perform a similar operation on the entire body; with independent processing, we can only talk about partial galvanization of the vehicle.
Method of galvanizing a body at home.
Advantages of galvanizing
This method has been successfully used in European countries for decades. Our production is also developing and is gradually starting to use it. A huge number of those cars that were produced long before the advent of this technology are not protected.
In this situation, there is a need for galvanizing the body, and you need to do it yourself.
Advice! If it is not possible to galvanize the entire body, then it is worth paying attention to those areas that are most often susceptible to the development of corrosion processes.
Everyone knows that most often those parts of the car that are closest to the road surface suffer from corrosion.
Why them? The answer is simple because they are exposed to chemical elements more than those further away and higher up.
That is why it is necessary to galvanize the body so as not to incur constant costs for repairing individual parts in the future.
Galvanizing has a much lower cost compared to the amount you would need to pay for a new body. Almost all car manufacturers focus only on the bottom.
A special anodic coating is applied to it, which is a metal that has a lower potential than the base metal from which the body is made.
Attention! Zinc is considered the most optimal material for protection, since it is low cost and has good anti-corrosion properties.
Body galvanizing methods
There are three main methods of galvanizing a car, which are most often used in practice:
- a method in which car parts are immersed in a specially prepared zinc-containing solution heated to a certain temperature is called thermal;
- The second, no less popular, is the galvanic method of galvanizing. In this case, the selected part is immersed in a special bath with zinc solution. Then an electrode having a negative charge is attached to the part, and a positive one to the bath body. As a result of this, the part is enveloped in particles that carry a positive charge;
- the third method is the cold galvanizing process. This method is similar to the galvanic method, but there is no need to immerse the desired part in a special container. It simply undergoes treatment with a special electrode, which in turn is connected to a positive charge.
Galvanizing cars at the factory
Most well-known automobile companies galvanize the body directly at the production stage. Some do this only in relation to individual parts, many galvanize the entire body.
It is also practiced to galvanize the entire most vulnerable parts using a similar technology, and those less susceptible to corrosion are processed on one side.
Attention! The Lada Kalina production plant, as well as individual foreign manufacturers, use this technology.
Manufacturers of the Lada Kalina claim that almost half of the car body is galvanized. For full galvanization, individual parts are immersed in a galvanic environment.
The remaining parts that do not have a high risk of corrosion undergo only internal processing on the side where there is no full paint coating. According to automotive experts, if individual elements of Kalina’s body are not galvanized, then they are fully protected by a primer.
Basically, those areas of the body where it is not always convenient to detect the development of corrosion processes are subjected to galvanization.
There are other foreign manufacturers who introduce full or partial galvanization into production.
Some of them use the thermal galvanizing method:
Other well-known brands of cars are galvanized by immersion in a galvanic bath. These include:
- Audi;
- Honda;
- Mercedes;
- Toyota and others.
In the case when the entire car body is galvanized, its service life increases many times, but the cost of such a model will be much more expensive than a model that has not undergone this type of treatment.
How to do galvanizing yourself
Outside the factory, galvanizing of a car is most often done using the galvanic or cold method. To use them, you don’t need to follow very abstruse recommendations and technologies, since everything here is as simple as possible.
COLD GALVANIZING METHOD
Before proceeding directly to the galvanizing process itself, it is necessary to first prepare the surface of the part or body. To do this, you need to clean the surface from dirt and traces of rust. After this, you can apply zinc, which has a finely dispersed state. The galvanizing process itself is similar to the spray painting method.
GALVANIC METHOD
It is possible to galvanize parts using the galvanic method, but it is quite problematic. In addition, this process cannot be considered cheap.
Preparation of the solution
For galvanizing, you will need a special solution, which consists of zinc salts, zinc sulfate and zinc chloride. Since it is not always possible to purchase a ready-made solution, you will have to work hard and make it yourself. To do this, you need to dissolve zinc in hydrochloric and sulfuric acid.
Advice! All the necessary tools can be purchased at car dealerships or those that specialize in selling radio components.
The zinc is placed in a suitable container and filled with acid. About 400 grams of metal are used per liter of acid. It is this proportion that will give a high level of galvanization.
Galvanizing process
It is better to carry out all galvanizing work outside the room. Do not do this near fire or flammable materials.
Important! It is necessary to use personal protective equipment, since this work is dangerous to the skin and respiratory tract.
Before starting work, you need to make sure that all the acid has been produced, and then separate the precipitate from the main solution. The minus is connected to the selected part, and the plus is connected to the zinc. This compound is placed in a solution and a current is started. A car battery can be used as a power source.
Under the influence of current, all zinc particles that are in the solution settle on the surface of the part. It is worth paying attention to the fact that the wire must be protected from contact with the solution. Because this can make unpleasant adjustments to the work.
After all, that part of the wire that is even slightly in contact with the solution itself begins to oxidize under the influence of the environment and, as a result, all the work will be in vain.
If precise and correct actions are performed, a gray layer will begin to form on the surface of the part.
After completing the galvanizing process, the part must be thoroughly washed.
Galvanizing method using “white powder”
For more efficient processing of metal with zinc, soldering acid is used instead of phosphoric acid. This is hydrochloric acid diluted with water with zinc dissolved in it. According to craftsmen, galvanizing with a similar composition lasts longer and penetrates deeper into the metal surface. Soldering acid is sold in radio equipment stores in small bottles. It can also be made by diluting zinc chloride, a white powder that is sold by weight.
Main stages of work
First, you need to pour zinc chloride into a strong container, pour in distilled water to get a clear liquid. Approximately 2.5 liters are needed per kilogram of product. You can put the entire part into the finished soldering acid, creating a galvanic bath. Before starting work, you should clean the product from rust with sandpaper or a grinder, and then activate the metal - remove the oxide film from its surface.
Metal activation
During activation, the positive terminal of the battery is connected to the part, the negative terminal is connected through a 20-watt light bulb to the electrode (an iron bolt wrapped in a cotton rag and soaked in soldering acid). As current is applied, the product will be cleaned of the oxide film. Only after its removal is the metal immersed in a galvanic bath and galvanizing is carried out in a similar way.
Do-it-yourself galvanizing of a car body, how to do it, how to find out whether it is galvanized or not
The strength and reliability of the body is a guarantee of the quality of any car. It doesn't matter whether the car is bought new or used.
So that the “iron horse” does not show off rotten thresholds in the future and is protected from corrosion and the influence of chemical additives that are generously sprinkled on our roads in the winter, galvanization is performed.
Why can’t we just treat all cars like this at the factory? The fact is that this procedure significantly affects the final cost of the car, so on some parts they try to get by with a layer of primer.
Types and technologies of galvanizing
Galvanizing is by far the most reliable way to protect the body from corrosion - the zinc-containing substance is not afraid of salts and moisture, which are destructive to the metal. It comes in three types, and you can also make it yourself. They protect the entire body or only its most vulnerable parts.
It is believed that the Russian auto industry has been behind the rest of the planet for at least the last couple of decades. However, the entire Lada Granta body is galvanized, and the Lada Kalina body is reliably protected from corrosion by forty percent. Where there is no galvanization, a primer is used.
Old cars were treated in factories with zinc-containing primer. It is also reliable, but it cannot replace complete galvanization.
The Germans began galvanizing the bodies of their Audis back in the eighties of the last century. Today in Europe and America they are trying to find a replacement for the procedure - zinc turned out to be harmful to the environment.
But so far, galvanizing is not a thing of history in automobile factories around the world. They process bumpers, body kits, and in general everything that is adjacent to the body. Even on the same Audi.
Abroad, the galvanizing method of body protection has been used for more than thirty years.
There are four ways to galvanize a body:
- hot galvanized;
- galvanic galvanization;
- cold galvanized;
- production of machines from zinc metal.
Hot galvanized
Very reliable and quite expensive. The dry body is dipped into molten zinc at a temperature of at least five hundred degrees. Those same Audis from the eighties, treated in this way, still drive without requiring body repairs. How many cars with high mileage can boast of such a result? Today, expensive Audi, Volkswagen, and Seat models are galvanized this way.
The warranty for such a body is fifteen years or more. With minor damage, the zinc film repairs itself over time.
Galvanic galvanization
The entire body is immersed in a bath of zinc-containing electrolyte, where, under the influence of electric current, zinc remains on the metal surface. The treatment is less stable than hot-dip galvanizing, but gives the car a more “glossy” and “decorative” appearance due to a uniform and shiny coating.
The warranty on this body is ten years or more.
This galvanization is used primarily by Mercedes and BMW. Being eternal competitors with Volkswagen and Audi, the brands invented their own galvanization - galvanic.
It is worth noting that for cheaper cars, not the entire body is galvanized, but only its parts, and mainly the internal ones, as they are the most difficult to access for repair.
Galvanization is indispensable in cold countries with harsh climates. In Europe, cars are increasingly being bought for five years with the purpose of further resale, and for such a short period of time an anti-corrosion coating will suffice, so galvanizing is now more of a publicity stunt.
Most popular among budget car models. Zinc-containing paint is sprayed onto the body (zinc content is about ninety percent).
Cold galvanizing is the key to low corrosion resistance.
Think about it: if zinc is contained in a layer of paint and the paint is worn off, the zinc will be erased along with it. Any abrasion of the body, any mechanical damage caused by a thoughtless turn of the steering wheel in a parking lot - and moisture and salts will begin to get on the body steel.
Asian and Russian cars predictably suffer from cold galvanizing: bodies of the Lada and Hyundai brands are treated in exactly this way. Hence the low corrosion resistance.
Incomplete galvanization of the body
First, you should understand this: the vast majority of new models do not have a fully galvanized body. Why?
Firstly, in the West there is a widespread fashion for five-year cars: if you drive them, you put them under the hammer. So no one “bothers” with full-fledged anti-corrosion protection - due to the short service life, the car will not physically have time to develop corrosion in such a time.
Secondly, in the East everything is good that is sold cheaply, but inexpensively and with a properly galvanized body - this is only in fairy tales. So cheapness also plays an important role in the choice of galvanizing methods.
Thirdly, in Russia - at the junction of East and West, where, in general, there is more of the East, they also do not want to raise car prices too much. Yes, rebranding is a good thing, but Lada is still considered a budget car.
Do-it-yourself galvanizing of car body parts
Among motorists, the concept of “galvanized body” has not a technical, but rather a sacred meaning, almost the secret of eternal youth.
Indeed, cars with such a protective coating have a chance of outliving their owner.
Not every iron horse has one, but at least partial galvanizing of a car body with your own hands is a completely accessible operation for anyone who knows the difference between side cutters and pliers.
Why and does zinc always protect?
Not everyone knows the reason why galvanized metal does not rust. Let's say more: the non-ferrous metal zinc (the chemical element Zn) has less resistance to oxidation and corrosion than the iron it protects. Zinc becomes a protector for it due to the existing difference in electrical potentials on the surface of the crystal lattices.
This effect is called electrochemical corrosion, and it consists in the destruction of an active metal upon contact with a less active one, which receives additional ions and is reduced.
If damage to the iron forms on the surface of a galvanized sheet, then the entire protective layer can melt, literally like snow in the spring.
An active electrochemical process leads to accelerated oxidation of both metals.
Therefore, if a galvanized body has serious mechanical damage, it will rot much faster than one that is simply well painted.
Main methods of galvanizing
Protective zinc coating is applied in two main ways.
- Hot. This is a factory method where the car body, after cleaning with acids and applying flux, is dipped into a bath of molten zinc. It is expensive and complicated, so it is not used by all automakers, even world-famous ones. This coating is the most durable and resistant to mechanical stress. It is available on cars from the brands Porsche, Volvo since 1975, Chevrolet Lachetti, some Ford and Opel models, as well as the VAZ 2110 (optional).
- Cold. In turn, it is divided into galvanic and mechanical. Galvanizing is also quite reliable, but the entire body is galvanized using this method only in factories, since it involves the use of large volumes of aggressive substances - alkalis, acids, ammonia. It is used by manufacturers of the brands Mercedes, Skoda, Volkswagen, Toyota, Reno Logan. In limited areas it can also be used for self-galvanizing. Mechanical methods of applying a protective coating (painting with compositions containing zinc) are the least reliable, but they are simple and cheap.
Galvanizing your home is easy
You can galvanize the body yourself using only one of the cold methods. To apply galvanic coating you will need:
- zinc chloride (ZnCl2) or sulfate (ZnSO4);
- DC source;
- zinc electrode.
Chloride is obtained by dissolving zinc in hydrochloric acid, and sulfate in sulfuric acid. These reagents can be purchased ready-made. Preference should be given to chloride, since it dissolves better in water. For sulfate it must be boiled.
The DC source will be a battery or charger. The zinc electrode is made from the shell of a round battery.
The surface is thoroughly cleaned of paint, dirt, rust and degreased. Under no circumstances should modifiers be used with phosphoric acid!
Small parts can be placed in a clean, cut plastic oil canister and completely filled with zinc chloride solution, which will act as an electrolyte. The zinc electrode is connected to the positive terminal and lowered into the canister.
On vertical surfaces, measures must be taken to ensure that the electrolyte does not spread. The machine can be turned on the desired side using a tilter. The bottom is galvanized with an electrode, which is wrapped in a porous material that is acid-resistant.
To avoid the hassle of choosing ingredients, buy a ready-made kit for home galvanizing. For example, Zinkor Auto.
The workpiece is covered with a light gray coating. The duration of the process depends on the desired thickness of the applied coating.
If the current is too high, the process will speed up, but the coating will be loose and unreliable. Therefore, it is better to use a charger with a regulator.
The galvanized surface is treated with a soda solution (acid neutralization).
Untreated areas of iron adjacent to the zinc film must be carefully primed and painted over to avoid the onset of galvanic corrosion.
If you have a sandblaster in your toolkit, you can use it to apply zinc powder. At supersonic speed, it is perfectly imprinted into the surface of the protected part.
Cold galvanizing can be carried out by applying a composition similar in physical properties to conventional paint. They are applied to clean and grease-free surfaces.
The domestic protective composition “Galvanol” contains up to 96 percent pure zinc powder. It can be applied with a brush, roller, dipped into the part completely, or used as a spray gun filler.
Foreign manufacturers offer zinc sprays in aerosol cans. These are, for example, the compositions of Zinga, LIQUI MOLY Zink Spray.
Now you know how to apply the coveted layer of galvanization to your car. If you take your time, thoroughly clean all surfaces and protect the treated area with a layer of primer and paint, there will be no signs of corrosion for several years.
Source: https://KuzovExpert.ru/kuzovnoy-remont/otsinkovka-svoimi-rukami.html
All about galvanizing a car body
Metal corrosion is a common problem that every car owner faces. The car body is a sheet metal structure with a large number of welded joints that constantly conducts current.
Iron and steel oxidize over time when exposed to water and oxygen, forming rust. Galvanization is considered the most effective method.
What is galvanizing
In case of severe damage, after an impact or chipping, the iron is exposed and interacts with air and moisture. This is how the initial source of corrosion is formed: as it spreads, it leads to the destruction of the metal.
Galvanizing, or galvanizing, is the coating of a flat metal surface with zinc protection.
The zinc layer also oxidizes in air, but at the same time forms a dense protective film that does not allow oxygen to react with the metal.
An alternative option is tinning and tin coating. This method is more expensive. In cases of serious body restoration, both tin and zinc are used: the first layer of tin smoothes out roughness on the metal coating, which is necessary when unevenness is formed when cleaning the body from a layer of rust.
Advantages and disadvantages
Galvanizing, despite its simplicity and reliability, has both advantages and disadvantages. Advantages:
- the machine is reliably protected from rust;
- The zinc layer is resistant to any weather conditions and can withstand significant
- mechanical damage;
- The corrosion protection time, based on the galvanizing method and operating conditions, is from 5 to 30 years.
Procedure for removing red spots
First we will treat the surface damaged by saffron milk caps. Using a blade, you need to try to pick out as much paint as possible that has swollen or begun to peel off. Then the rusty area is cleaned. The next step is to wet the cotton wool in phosphoric acid; the end of the wire coming from the battery should be connected to the positive terminal on the battery. Don't forget to remove the terminal. Regarding the negative clamp, there is no need to disconnect it. The mass is the body.
Now you can burn off the rust. To do this, you need to press the side of the battery, where the cotton pad is placed, directly onto the source of corrosion. A reaction should occur in the form of a violent hiss of acid. You need to act smoothly, moving from side to side, you can’t keep it in one place. Otherwise there will be dark marks on the surface. Through the battery, zinc is transferred to the metal of the case.
We move in a similar way to the remaining rusty areas. During the galvanizing process, the wool will burn out; it needs to be changed periodically. The battery will also have to be replaced with another one as needed, since the zinc disappears on one side.
By the way, when the so-called zinc “crust” is formed, the metal surface is protected by a barrier that prevents the negative effects of aggressive substances. The created durable coating, in which zinc played an important role, is not afraid of any annoying saffron milk caps. It is also not afraid of moisture.
The advantage of this method is that it allows galvanizing of body parts, as well as individual parts. In this case, you only need your own hands and a few materials. Of course, you shouldn’t forget about desire when you want to give your car a presentable appearance and durability.
How to galvanize a car body with your own hands: advice from mechanics
A high-quality car body is already an 80% guarantee of its reliability and long service life. That is why complete galvanization of the car body is an important characteristic when purchasing it.
But what about those who buy a used car or an economy model? It’s all very simple: galvanizing a car body with your own hands is quite possible.
Of course, for this you will need a certain set of tools and a wealth of knowledge, which we want to share with you further.
What is good about a galvanized car body?
As you know, galvanizing critical parts of a car protects them from corrosion and the effects of chemical compounds of the road surface. It is much easier to immediately put the body in order than to constantly repair and patch it. Believe me, galvanizing costs much less than a new car body.
Automakers usually subject only the underbody of their models to this procedure, that is, the most vulnerable element of the body. To do this, they apply anodic protection - a metal with a lower electrochemical potential compared to the metal of the car body. Zinc is considered the most suitable due to its relatively low price and high physical and chemical properties.
Types of galvanization
Today, car manufacturing companies use three main types of body galvanizing:
- galvanic;
- thermal;
- cold.
Galvanic galvanizing involves soaking the finished part in a bath containing zinc electrolyte. The current affects the zinc, which, in turn, sticks to the metal surface of the body. This technology is very common among Japanese and European car manufacturers.
Source: https://RuliKolesa.ru/kak-ocinkovat-kuzov-mashiny-svoimi-rukami/
Will need
For galvanic galvanizing of metal we will need quite accessible and inexpensive materials and products:
- zinc (for example, battery housings);
- orthophosphoric acid;
- rusty metal plate;
- 12 V battery;
- thin wire;
- small magnet;
- cotton pads and rubber rings;
- scotch;
- medical syringe.
The tools we will use are:
gas torch, scissors, screwdriver, household hair dryer, knife, grinder and ammeter.
How to make a car with a galvanized body
Let’s try to figure out whether it’s a myth or reality and whether there are cars with a galvanized body. The following technologies for galvanizing car body elements are currently used:
- thermal galvanizing;
- galvanic galvanizing;
- cold galvanizing;
- zinc metal
Technologies for applying zinc to the body
Currently, zinc coating is the most effective protection of the body from the corrosion process. During hot (thermal) galvanizing, the metal is immersed in a special container filled with molten zinc (t=500-4000°C).
The body is first subjected to additional preparation and thorough drying. After thermal galvanizing, manufacturers provide a 15-year warranty on the body. This technology ensures the thickness of the protective zinc layer from 2 to 15 microns.
When galvanizing, a thin zinc film is applied to a metal surface. To do this, the metal is immersed in a special zinc-containing electrolyte and an electric current is passed through it.
This treatment ensures uniform coating, but the metal is more susceptible to rust. The thickness of the coating ranges from 5 to 20 microns.
After galvanic galvanization, manufacturers provide a 10-year warranty on the body.
Cold galvanizing technology is common in the budget segment of cars. Galvanizing is carried out by processing with highly dispersed primers with a zinc content of more than 90%.
Essentially, this method is combined with the application of a layer of paint and varnish, so it does not provide high anti-corrosion resistance. In fact, such protection is pierced even by minor scratches.
Zinc metal involves the use of steel sheets for the manufacture of the body, already coated with a layer of zinc at the rolling stage.
Typically, the protective coating of zinc metal consists of two layers: the bottom contains zinc particles, and the organic top layer has a high zinc content. Next, a car body is assembled from such steel.
The protective coating tolerates molding, welding, priming and painting well.
The disadvantages of zinc metal include poor moisture resistance and low corrosion resistance compared to other technologies, which is why this treatment is practiced in the production of budget cars.
Many automakers carry out galvanizing at the body manufacturing stage, others galvanize the already assembled body.
Some companies practice full galvanization of only individual elements; the remaining areas are covered with a protective layer on only one side or are limited to thorough priming.
In this case, the buyer is allegedly offered a car with a galvanized body. In reality, there are only a few models on the market with a fully galvanized body, and such cars are not cheap.
A couple of minutes solves the rust problem
To remove saffron milk caps you will need your own hands and a simple device. You can make it from improvised means:
- batteries;
- knife with a sharp blade;
- electrical insulating tape;
- regular table soda;
- to protect hands - gloves made of durable material.
The list is also complemented by a one-and-a-half cable and several hygienic cotton pads. Purchase phosphoric acid in advance. It is easy to find in radio parts stores.
Regarding batteries, you will need zinc salt cells. The zinc content can be checked easily, just hold a magnet, it should not be magnetic. Then you need to completely remove the cover from the battery with a knife. Next, we wrap the battery case with a wire in a spiral shape, securing it with electrical tape. A cotton pad must be attached to the negative side of the element with electrical insulating tape.
That's it, the device is ready. This takes on average two to three minutes. With this device we will get rid of rust stains and more. They can perfectly galvanize metal surfaces.
The galvanizing process is accelerated if you first throw pieces of zinc taken from disassembled batteries into the acid. Having completely dissolved in acid and been saturated with zinc, the reaction proceeds three to four times faster.
