Do-it-yourself gas torches for soldering - manufacturing instructions

When repairing a car, sometimes you have to resort to soldering various metal parts.

The burner required for this is one of those tools that does not have to be purchased in a store - you can easily make it yourself.

Such skills can be very useful, because it is not always possible to go to a construction supermarket, and interruptions in finances are quite common.

So, for everyone for whom this issue is relevant, we invite you to read this article, the topic of which is gas burners for do-it-yourself soldering.

Making a mini burner

Miniature torch
If you need to work with small parts or circuit boards, then such a large torch will not suit you at all. In this case, you can make a small burner from improvised materials that will produce temperatures up to 1000ºC. You will need:

Regular dropper – 2 pcs.
Needle for inflating balls.
Needle for a medical syringe.
Soldering iron.
File.
Copper wire.
Pliers.
Grinding stone.
Flux for soldering.
Thermal gun.

Making a homemade mini-burner
Armed with all the tools, you can get to work. For convenience, we divide the process into the following stages:

The first step is to make a cut in the ball needle with a file. It should be a little further than the middle. There are needles that already have such a hole, this is even better.
Then take the syringe needle and bend it about 45˚ in the middle.
Since the tip of the needle is cut at an angle, it must be ground down on a grinding stone so that an even, straight cut is formed.
Insert a thin needle into the ball needle hole. Its tip should protrude 1–2 mm.
Secure the needle by wrapping thin copper wire around the joint.
Fixing the needle
Lubricate the wire with flux and solder the joint to make everything airtight.
Take out the IVs and connect them to the bases of the two needles.
Move the clamp-regulators towards the needles; they will serve as a handle and regulators for the supply of air and gas.
Connect them together with a heat gun.
That's all, now all that remains is to connect the gas source (lighter or gas canister) and a compressed air cylinder.

Gas will flow through the thick tube, and compressed air through the thin (medical) tube. You can change the pressure of gas and compressed air thanks to the dropper regulators. This small burner will be useful for use at home.

A gas burner is a useful tool in capable hands. In order to have it, you don’t have to go to the store and spend money to buy it. You can do everything yourself. The main thing is to prepare all the materials and tools, as well as research the technology for manufacturing the burner. Before starting work, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the structure of the tool and the principle of its operation. Then it will be much easier for you to do everything yourself.

Use of torches for hard soldering and brass soldering

Soldering allows you to make a permanent, hermetically sealed connection of two metal parts by a kind of “gluing” of them with some molten material - solder. The latter must exhibit high adhesion to the metals being joined, that is, be very “sticky”, and have sufficient strength after hardening.

The melting point of the solder must be higher than the operating temperature at which the soldered product is operated; and at the same time lower than the melting point of the base material.

A gas burner is precisely what is needed to heat the solder and thus make it sufficiently viscous.

Obviously, for ease of operation, its torch must maintain a stable shape and temperature.

The advantage of this tool is its ability to process areas with a large area - an electric soldering iron will not be able to handle such a task.

At the same time, you can make a simple, low-power burner with your own hands without much hassle.

With the help of a homemade burner you can do a lot of useful things. Its capabilities will be quite sufficient for soldering copper and brass vessels included in radiators, intercoolers and heat exchangers, as well as for soldering using hard solders.

In addition, only with the help of this tool can you disassemble the radiator in order to replace its core, as well as replace the honeycombs in it.

Such a burner will also be useful during body repairs, in which high temperature is not only unnecessary, but also very undesirable, as it can cause warping of this part of the car.

Carry out restoration of a small damaged area, solder holes with brass, carry out “jeweler’s” straightening - this tool will be quite suitable for all these works.

A slight heating will also be needed if it is necessary to dismantle a part that is an interference fit, that is, pressed.

This could be a bearing race or some kind of bushing.

This method is especially effective if the parts included in the connection are made of materials with different coefficients of thermal expansion.

Instructions for use

If you will use a gas burner for roofing work, then you must carry out several steps before doing so. Initially, the base for laying the material is prepared; for this, the surface is cleaned of dust and debris. If there is a need, the concrete screed should be leveled. Next, the surface is treated with a primer. At the next stage, you can begin working with rolled material, which is laid out to ensure overlap. The width of the latter can vary from 8.2 to 9 cm. This installation of waterproofing is only a fitting. During these manipulations, the rolls should be leveled and then rolled back. The material must be fixed at the base of the roof, during which a gas burner is used for roofing work. Now an assistant should be connected to the work. One of the craftsmen uses equipment to heat the surface of the base, as well as the lower surface of the waterproofing. While the second person is engaged in tightly pressing the insulation to the roof surface. In this case, the roll must be rolled out immediately. To prevent the formation of wrinkles and bubbles, the roll should be rolled with a hand roller. If peeling of the seams was detected, then a gas burner for roofing work, the photo of which is presented in the article, will eliminate these errors.

Types of burners

All devices can be classified according to two parameters: operating technology and scope of application.

Based on the principle of operation, the following types of devices can be distinguished:

diffusion, in which the process of mixing gas and oxygen is carried out during combustion;
injection, where even before the gas enters the combustion chamber, it is enriched with oxygen;
atmospheric, which, according to the principle of operation, resemble injection ones, but oxygen is supplied to a lesser extent;
recuperative, where a special device - a recuperator - heats up the gas before mixing it with air;
regenerative - similar to recuperative, but heating to the required degree is carried out by another unit - a regenerator, which first heats the gas and oxygen, and only then supplies it to the combustion chamber;
inflatable, where air is forced into the combustion chamber using a fan;
with pre-full mixing, where oxygen is added near the outlet;
with incomplete premixing.

Devices are also classified by purpose:

Household appliances characterized by low power. Most often we are talking about atmospheric devices, since their operation is associated with the least number of problems.
Industrial equipment used in boiler rooms, factories and for heating a large number of residential units. The most common are injection, fan and diffuse devices.

Manufacturing and installation of a burner in a closed gas furnace

Let's consider two options - make a burner from scratch, using the recommendations of experienced home craftsmen, or use a ready-made design, adapting/modifying some of its characteristics. It should be noted that in the first case you should have very high qualifications, as well as have experience in setting up and, at a minimum, repairing such devices. Otherwise, the matter may end in an explosion, burns, and other troubles.

Confusion bell made of heat-resistant steel type X18N9T.
Steel tubular body shaped like a double truncated cone.
Gas supply head.
Air supply head.
Mouths.
Regulators for the amount of gas-air mixture.

To make such a burner you need: 1.5-inch pipes, a sheet blank with a thickness of at least 1.2 mm for the confuser, two fittings and three flanges for connecting the elements. It is better to make a welded structure from heat-resistant steel, and welding must be done under submerged arc or using inert gas. High-pressure hoses can be used as air and gas supply pipes, the diameters of which will correspond to the connecting dimensions of the housing. Fixing clamps and high-quality seals made of gasoline-oil-resistant high-temperature rubber are also required. All other elements are connected using threads.

Horn with a homemade gas burner

On some websites there are recommendations for making a burner body by rolling a tubular blank. But at high jet pressures, plastic hardening of the material can lead to the emergence of zones of internal stress, which, when starting the burner, often cause cracking in the body metal.

The option of installing a burner from a used gas stove is much simpler. You will first need to determine the fuel costs required to quickly heat the metal for forging. When selecting a finished design, the power of the main unit (boiler, stove, etc.) for which the device was used is established. The product of this value by the efficiency (for gas it is 0.89...0.93) gives the desired power value W. It is a little more difficult to establish the gas consumption T. The calculation algorithm is as follows:

The calorific value of the fuel Q is determined (for propane, 3600 kJ/m3 can be taken);
Using the formula T = 3.6W/Q, the flow rate is determined.
Based on the calculation results, all the necessary shut-off and control valves are selected: valves, tees, o-rings, etc.

Installing a burner in a forge for forging with your own hands is done as follows. First, a confuser is inserted into the prepared lining hole, and the burner mouth is attached to it through a sheet gasket made of heat-resistant steel. The product itself is attached to it, and tubes for supplying air and gas are screwed in. They check the effectiveness of the regulators, after which they carry out a test run of gas from a cylinder or a stationary network. All work must be carried out in a well-ventilated area. At the slightest smell of gas, installation work is stopped and the source of possible leaks is determined.

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Choosing gas

You can only make a gas burner using propane, butane or a propane-butane mixture with your own hands, i.e. on gaseous saturated hydrocarbons and atmospheric air. When using 100% isobutane (see below), it is possible to achieve flame temperatures of up to 2000 degrees.

Acetylene allows you to achieve a flame temperature of up to 3000 degrees, but due to its danger, the high cost of calcium carbide and the need for pure oxygen as an oxidizing agent, it has practically fallen out of use in welding work. It is possible to obtain pure hydrogen at home; a hydrogen flame from a supercharged burner (see below) gives temperatures up to 2500 degrees. But the raw materials for producing hydrogen are expensive and unsafe (one of the components is a strong acid), but the main thing is that hydrogen cannot be smelled or tasted, there is no point in adding a mercaptan fragrance to it, because Hydrogen spreads an order of magnitude faster, and its admixture with air of only 4% already produces an explosive explosive gas, and its ignition can occur simply in the light.

Methane is not used in household gas burners for similar reasons; in addition, it is highly poisonous. As for flammable liquid vapors, pyrolysis gases and biogas, when burned in gas burners they produce a not very clean flame with a temperature below 1100 degrees. Flammable liquids of medium and below average volatility (from gasoline to fuel oil) are burned in special liquid burners, for example, in burners for diesel fuel; alcohols are used in low-power flame devices, and ethers do not burn at all - they have low energy, but are very dangerous.

Safety precautions

Metal gas cylinders are explosive; even five-liter cylinders can cause a powerful explosion. They were replaced by safer metal-composite and composite materials, which reduced the explosion hazard of gas cylinders to zero, since such containers do not explode.

General safety requirements when using propane burners

Personnel are allowed to work when they reach 18 years of age. The welder must be certified and receive permission to start working with propane equipment, undergo a medical examination and have no medical restrictions. Before work begins, personnel are given introductory and initial briefings.
The welder must know and follow safety rules when using a propane torch and methods of providing assistance.
The welder must have special clothing, shoes and protective equipment.
Before starting work, tools and equipment are selected and their performance is checked.
Remove the steel cap with a key.
Carry out an internal inspection of the fittings, remove dirt and blow out the valve by sharply turning the tap in the “open-close” direction. If it does not unscrew, then the vessel is considered inoperative and is sent for repair to a gas repair service.
The propane cylinder is installed in an area with good ventilation with an air temperature above 0C to avoid freezing.
Before turning on the gearbox, blow out its fitting.
The gearbox is attached to a vessel with a closed valve.
Limit distances from the place of work: from heat sources - more than 1 m; from open fire - more than 10 m.

When working with propane vessels, it is prohibited:

Carry out inclined installation of cylinders.
Place the vessels in walk-through and low-lit areas, as well as in the sun.
Work without gearbox.
Use hoses made from different pieces connected with wire.
Leave working cylinders unattended.
Repair a burner connected to a propane vessel.
Warm up the gearbox using an open flame.

Self-assembly of the product

Assembling a propane gas burner with your own hands is the most interesting and exciting stage of the work. For beginners and inexperienced craftsmen, it is necessary to study it as accurately as possible to obtain a quality product. It is necessary to take into account all the nuances and advice.

First, you should think about the most interesting thing - the handle of the product. To create it, you can use any material. As an option, a handle from an old soldering iron or other device is perfect. The supply tube must be made of steel only. Other materials will not work at all.

It is very important at the initial stages to pay attention to the dimensions of all structural elements. For example, the diameter of the supply tube should not be more than 1 centimeter, and the thickness of the steel should be 2-3 millimeters. Such an element must be fixed to the handle using glue or another substance to fasten such parts.

Burner body

The basis of the burner is its body. It is also made of steel, oddly enough. For such purposes, it is better to use a brass rod with a diameter of 2 centimeters. To make a divider, you may also need similar material. After this, several holes should be made so that air can circulate freely inside the product. This is done for a well-known reason - fire cannot burn without oxygen. As a rule, five or six such holes are required, and their diameter should be one millimeter. They are done in the structure divider itself.

Next you need to mount (push) the divider into the burner body. This will require quite a lot of force. In contrast to the divider, the internal flange should be installed with a small gap of approximately half a centimeter, thereby in the future the huge flow of gas that enters the igniter will be slowed down.

Nozzle device

For a homemade propane gas lamp, you also need to make a jet. With the help of such a part, fuel supply is ensured. The fuel is propane, which is in a cylinder. For manufacturing, you should use a metal rod. You need to make a blind hole in it. To do this you need to have a 2 mm drill. The jumper needs to be made with a 4 mm drill. Such holes must be tapped with a hammer and sanded.

Next, a hose from the gearbox is mounted on the end of the tube. It must be made of a special rubber and fabric mixture. Fastening occurs by fixing the hose with a clamp. After the hose is securely fastened, it is necessary to correctly set the pressure in the cylinder and supply gas to it. With the help of such actions, air is completely expelled from the system. If everything is done correctly, then the length of the fire should be at least 40-50 millimeters.

A homemade design is a very good tool and a unique tool that will always help a young master in any household situation. And since it is very easy to produce it yourself, the popularity of such a tool is growing every day.

Safety precautions

General safety requirements when using propane burners

Personnel are allowed to work when they reach 18 years of age. The welder must be certified and receive permission to start working with propane equipment, undergo a medical examination and have no medical restrictions. Before work begins, personnel are given introductory and initial briefings.
The welder must know and follow safety rules when using a propane torch and methods of providing assistance.
The welder must have special clothing, shoes and protective equipment.
Before starting work, tools and equipment are selected and their performance is checked.
Remove the steel cap with a key.
Carry out an internal inspection of the fittings, remove dirt and blow out the valve by sharply turning the tap in the “open-close” direction. If it does not unscrew, then the vessel is considered inoperative and is sent for repair to a gas repair service.
The propane cylinder is installed in an area with good ventilation with an air temperature above 0C to avoid freezing.
Before turning on the gearbox, blow out its fitting.
The gearbox is attached to a vessel with a closed valve.
Limit distances from the place of work: from heat sources - more than 1 m; from open fire - more than 10 m.

When working with propane vessels, it is prohibited:

Carry out inclined installation of cylinders.
Place the vessels in walk-through and low-lit areas, as well as in the sun.
Work without gearbox.
Use hoses made from different pieces connected with wire.
Leave working cylinders unattended.
Repair a burner connected to a propane vessel.
Warm up the gearbox using an open flame.

Parameters for making a soldering torch

Firstly, the device must be made of refractory metals. With a properly adjusted burner, temperatures in excess of 1000°C can be achieved. Secondly, the burner must be equipped with a reliable operating valve, which will shut off the gas supply in the event of a dangerous situation. Thirdly, you need to use a reliable connection to a tank with a valve or a 5-liter propane tank with a reducer, which will eliminate the risk of accidents.

Below is a typical diagram and principle of operation of an injection gas burner:

Primary requirements

We list the signs of a high-quality gas burner:

The fuel burns completely: this requirement is very important, since incomplete combustion of gas not only reduces the efficiency of the heater, but also pollutes the atmosphere with nitrogen oxide and carbon monoxide.
The device has a fairly long service life.
The design is extremely simple, installation is not difficult.
The noise emitted by the burner does not exceed the values permitted by sanitary standards.

If the burner is a combination burner, that is, it is capable of working with different types of fuel, then it should be quickly and easily switched to one or another type of fuel.

Addendum 2

Sometimes workers complain that the burner is not working or is not working properly. Only working designs are posted here, no theoretical ones. This means that they did not notice or did not understand the principle of operation of the burners. Now I’ll try to explain using a mini-burner as an example. To do this, I will give a simplified diagram of this particular design.

1. Make sure that the incoming gas pressure is within the acceptable range of 0.2-4 kg/cm2. And the most working range is from 0.5 to 2.5 kg/cm2. And the diameter of the nozzle hole is 0.12 +/-0.02 mm. 2. The air intake holes are not closed. 3. In the picture. The diameter of the tube with the supplied gas-air mixture is 3.5 mm. And the central hole in the divider has a diameter of 3 mm. That is, 0.5 mm less. Therefore, part of the flow of the gas-air mixture diverges to the sides into small holes. The flow rate through these holes is less than the main flow. These small holes are precisely designed to ignite the main flow. And due to the low speed of the gas-air mixture, they burn stably and do not allow the flame of the main flow to be blown away. This is true for all burners of the type on this page with flame spreaders. 4. Based on the above, check whether there is still a 2mm gap between both parts of the burner head. If manufactured correctly according to the drawings, this gap will exist. Otherwise, you will observe only the central torch, without the side lights, which is easily blown away when the pressure of the gas entering the nozzle increases.

On the left is a non-working burner. On the right is how it should be. 5. And a few words about the position of the nozzle. The cut of the capillary from which the gas comes out must be positioned while the burner is running in the area opposite the air intake holes, or before these holes. And, of course, the tube with the capillary should not block the air holes.

What is necessary?

Working tools and material for the future design - this is what needs to be prepared before creating the device itself.

Handle material. There are no strict criteria for its selection, so everything depends on the ingenuity and capabilities of the manufacturer. The handle should be comfortable and not warm up during operation. It is most reasonable to take a ready-made handle - a handle from a broken boiler or soldering station will do.
Conducting tube. It must be steel, so the manufacturer chooses a steel tube with a diameter of no more than 1 cm and a wall thickness of 2.5 cm.
Burner body. And it must be steel, and the divider is made of a brass rod.
Nozzle. It is made from a metal rod.

Tools you will need: grinder, semi-automatic welding machine, file, drill press or drill, tap, drill bit, blade, hammer, pliers, stripping and cutting wheels, metal brush, protective equipment. You don't always need everything from the list, but it is included in the standard set.

Materials and tools for work

Tools for work
To make a regular burner, you will need the following parts and tools:

drill;
Bulgarian;
hammer;
sandpaper;
brass blanks for nozzle and divider;
thin brass tube Ø15 mm;
wooden bars;
vice;
FUM tape or silicone seal;
connecting hoses;
control valve.

Making a gas burner from scrap materials: step by step

List of materials and tools:

• drill;• grinder;• hammer;• sandpaper;• brass blanks for the divider nozzle;• thin brass tube with a diameter of 15 mm;• wooden blocks;• vice;• silicone seal or FUM tape;• hoses for connection;• valve for adjustment.

How to make a nozzle and handle

First of all, we take a brass tube and attach a handle to it - for example, from an old burner, or from a wooden block, having processed it beforehand. We drill a hole in the block for a brass tube with the appropriate diameter. Having inserted the tube into the timber, we secure it with silicone or epoxy resin.

Next, we proceed to a more labor-intensive and time-consuming stage of work - manufacturing the nozzle. The hole size should preferably be 0.1 mm.

You can use a drill to make a slightly larger hole, and then adjust the edges to 0.1 mm. The hole must have the correct shape so that the flame is even.

After this, we fix the workpiece in a vice, take a hammer and carefully, in a vertical plane with a “pull” towards the middle of the workpiece, strike the future nozzle. We rotate the product evenly to form an ideal hole.

Then we take fine-grit sandpaper and sand the nozzle head. To connect to the tube, a thread is applied to the back of the product; the elements can also be simply soldered - but in the future, repairing the parts will be more difficult.

Now we connect the device to the gas cylinder and set it on fire - the do-it-yourself burner is ready for use. However, here you can see that to regulate the gas flow, you can only open and close the valve of the gas cylinder, and thus it is very difficult to obtain the desired flame. What we can do?

How to improve flame control

For the normal operation of our homemade unit, we will install a divider and a tap on it. It is better to mount the tap near the handle, at a distance of about 2–4 cm, but it can also be attached to the supply pipe. As an option, take a burner tap from an old autogen or another similar tap that is attached with a thread. To seal the connection, take FUM tape.

The divider is installed on a pipe with a nozzle; it is made of brass, diameter 15 mm. The best option is a cylindrical part with a hole for a tube with a nozzle. If there is none, we do this:

1. Take a brass pipe with a diameter of 35 mm and cut a piece of 100–150 mm.2. Take a marker, step back from the end and mark 3-5 points, with an equal distance between them.3. We drill 8–10 mm holes in the pipe, take a grinder and make straight cuts to them.4. We bend everything to the center and weld it to the burner pipe.

Scheme

A homemade soldering torch is extremely simple. Its body is a tube with a nozzle at the end. At the other end there will be a tap with a pipe for connecting the gas supply hose.

To make it easier to adjust the power of the torch, we will equip the nozzle with a divider.

Gas burner diagram

Construction of a heater from a pipe

This homemade design is also called a thermal gas gun. It produces significantly more heat than previous heaters and absorbs more energy resources. Also, such structures are often equipped with chimneys, which makes them bulky and difficult to carry.

The diagram will familiarize you with the principle of operation and design features of a gas heat gun. The heat flow generated by the device is distributed using a fan

To assemble the heater yourself, you need to collect the following material:

three meter pipes of various diameters (two 8 cm and one 18 cm);
steel plates with which the fastening will be carried out;
Metal sheet;
gas burner with piezo ignition;
axial fan.

You will also need a variety of tools: drill, welding machine, tape measure, level, grinder, metal scissors. Pipes can be replaced with cylinders or fire extinguishers of suitable diameters. A grinder will be needed to cut the bottom and top, as well as shorten the workpieces.

Working in intensive mode to heat a room of 15 square meters, a forty-liter cylinder is enough for about a week. While working, the gun dries the air, so you need to humidify it

In a pipe with a diameter of 18 cm, two holes of different diameters are drilled: 1 cm and 8 cm. They need to be drilled opposite each other.

A 30 cm section is cut from a pipe with a diameter of 8 cm, which will represent the combustion chamber. Fasteners are welded to this pipe and a hole with a diameter of 1 cm is drilled in it. Then this pipe is inserted into the first pipe.

You need to cut a plug from a sheet of metal. It will close the gap between the heater body and the combustion chamber. A combustion chamber is welded to the body, and a pipe for exhausting hot air is welded to a hole with a diameter of 8 cm. After this, the plug is welded. After making sure that the gas burner is tightly attached to the combustion chamber, you can insert the hose through the centimeter holes.

A fan is installed at the back of the device, and a smoke exhaust is installed at the top. In order for the heater to stand stably on the surface, the legs should be welded. A gas heat gun efficiently heats rooms and uses gas economically. However, when using it, you should adhere to safety precautions.

Mini

A very tiny gas burner can be made from a fitting for inflating basketballs, a syringe needle and a couple of droppers , or as they are called medical “systems” for drip administration of drugs. The homemade product can even work from a lighter refill can.

Adjusting roller clamps will act as valves.

True, we will need a forced air supply for this device; the nozzle diameter is too small for injection of atmospheric air. For this purpose, you can use the compressor of an aquarium or an old refrigerator.

Carefully grind off the tip of the syringe needle and fitting. After this, bend the syringe needle slightly and insert it into the side hole of the fitting, so that the end comes out slightly from the cut tip.

We wrap the needle insertion site with copper wire and solder it well with acid.

The burner is ready. All that remains is to connect gas and air to it.

DIY gas burner

So, let's look at how to make gas burners for heating boilers with your own hands. A homemade gas burner for a solid fuel boiler can be assembled based on a valve from an oxygen cylinder, for example, VK-74. Its outlet pipe should be equipped with a homemade fitting, which can be connected to the gearbox using a rubber-fabric hose.

On the inlet pipe intended for screwing into the cylinder, you need to install a cap with a hole for connecting the nozzle. The latter can be borrowed from a gas stove or blowtorch.

It is necessary to weld a nozzle to the cap - a piece of steel pipe 100 mm long, the wall thickness of which is 2 mm.

There should be a gap of 15 mm between the cap and the nozzle, through which air will be drawn in, so first you need to weld three pieces of thick wire to the cap, and then a nozzle pipe to them.

The homemade burner is ignited in three steps:

We open the tap on the gas supply line or on the cylinder (in the case of using liquefied gas).
We bring a match, a lighter or a burning paper wick to the nozzle.
Open the valve.

The power of this device can be adjusted by closing or opening the valve. The green-blue part of the flame is the hottest.

The nozzle setting is to position the torch in its center. To do this, the wire holders are slightly bent.

If the burner is needed for operation, a tip bent at an angle of 45 degrees should be welded to its nozzle.

A steel cylinder valve can also serve as the basis for a homemade gas burner. A plug with a hole made in it for the nozzle is screwed onto its pipe. In this case, the “donor” of the jet is a blowtorch, the nozzle of which has a diameter of 0.8 mm. The nozzle of the burner itself should have a diameter of 30 mm. By changing its length using attachments, you can adjust the size of the torch. A valve can play the role of a regulator.

Making a handle and nozzle

Torch Handles
Take a brass tube and attach a handle to it. If you have a handle from an old burner, you can use it - it will be much more convenient. If you don’t have one, you can take a wooden block. To make the handle fit comfortably in your hand, it can be processed. You need to drill a hole in it for the brass tube. Their diameters must match. After which the tube is inserted into the beam and secured there with silicone or epoxy resin.

For ease of work, the brass tube must be bent above the handle at an angle of 45˚.

If the nozzle is made correctly, then the flame is even

What is necessary?

Working tools and material for the future design - this is what needs to be prepared before creating the device itself.

Handle material. There are no strict criteria for its selection, so everything depends on the ingenuity and capabilities of the manufacturer. The handle should be comfortable and not warm up during operation. It is most reasonable to take a ready-made handle - a handle from a broken boiler or soldering station will do.
Conducting tube. It must be steel, so the manufacturer chooses a steel tube with a diameter of no more than 1 cm and a wall thickness of 2.5 cm.
Burner body. And it must be steel, and the divider is made of a brass rod.
Nozzle. It is made from a metal rod.

Work to improve flame control

Burners with adjustable flame power
To ensure normal operation of our burner, it is necessary to equip it with a divider and a tap. A suitable place to mount the tap is near the handle, 2–4 cm higher. But it can also be installed on the supply pipe. A faucet from a burner from an old autogenous engine or its other analogue will do. It is permanently fixed to the tube with a threaded connection. To seal the connection, use FUM tape.

Design and principle of operation

Structurally, the instrument may have a different principle of formation of the gas-oxygen mixture. Some cutters use an oxygen cylinder to supply air, while modern devices take oxygen directly from the atmosphere. More functional devices are equipped with automatic piezo ignition, a protection system, including against wind, and various tips and adapters.

Roof gas burner

The propane burner is made of simple structural elements:

Handle for securely holding the unit;
reducer that regulates gas pressure;
gas pipe for supplying fuel;
metal distribution nozzle;
gas hose systems supplying gas with nipples from 6 to 9 mm;
propane cylinder.
oxygen balloon;
clamps for fastening.

Operating principle of a propane burner for roofing work:

The burner device is connected to the reducers of oxygen and propane cylinders using a system of supply hoses.
Reducers are installed on cylinders to create working welding pressure.
After assembling the gas and oxygen circuit, checking the connection tightness and securing the nodes, open the gas on the cylinders using valves.
Set the gas pressure to the operating value and open the valve.
The fuel is supplied through hoses to the propane burner.
The mixing process is carried out in the injector with the formation of a gas-air environment.
The working flame leaves the device with a temperature of more than 2000* C.

Propane burner device

Types and classification

Based on their intended purpose, devices are divided into professional and household.

The first include:

Burners for work related to metal processing: soldering, forging, welding.
Devices for general construction, road work, roofing, wood burning, and removal of old paint.
Technological equipment for various purposes. For example, drying chambers, food industry tools.

For household purposes, this includes a gas stove, nozzles for home stoves, heating boilers, and gas convectors.

Household devices include home workshop devices . This is where you most often find do-it-yourself burners, not only manufactured, but initially designed to perform specific tasks.

They are arranged according to two main schemes:

injection or injection;
with complete preliminary mixing of the working mixture, or ejection.

In the first type, air (or oxygen) is captured by the supplied gas stream. In the latter, the gas-air mixture is obtained in a preliminary chamber.

Work safety

The main traumatic factor when using and setting up a burner is temperature.

Gas, even household gas, is also dangerous, as evidenced by accidents involving explosions or poisoning.

The power of a propane torch depends on the diameter of the injector and nozzle. We must remember: it is not the gas itself that burns, but its mixture with air (oxygen).

The larger the volume that reacts, the stronger the torch. At the same time, the danger of getting a dangerous proportion of propane with air in the injection chamber increases, and as a result, a small explosion - cotton.

Therefore, a homemade burner does not need to be too large. As a rule, the injector diameter does not exceed 3-5 cm, and the nozzle opening is 0.5 mm.

Important! Work in a ventilated area or outdoors. Use gloves to protect your hands

How to choose?

When calculating the quantity for a chamber furnace (that is, the characteristics of a specific model), the total thermal power of the device is first determined. After this, they find out how many gas combustion units can and should be installed inside to ensure the necessary generation. The final stage is to establish the approximate air flow that will need to be supplied to one gas combustion point per unit of time. Further, professionals select specific devices taking into account monograms - if this word does not mean anything to a person, all that remains is to consult with specialists.

To correctly calculate heating, take into account the predicted design air flow

When determining it, the presence of a recuperator and the characteristics of this device must be taken into account. Typically, the power rating of thermal equipment can be found in the accompanying documentation. But sometimes documents are lost, and in the case of an old-style brick or wood stove, or a home-made one, they may not exist at all

Professionals recommend that when rebuilding brick fireplaces, proceed from the fact that their thermal power is 4-5 kW

But sometimes documents are lost, and in the case of an old-style brick or wood stove, or a home-made one, they may not exist at all. Professionals recommend that when rebuilding brick fireplaces, proceed from the fact that their thermal power is 4-5 kW.

If this option does not suit you for financial reasons, you can try to calculate the required thermal parameters based on the area of the heated premises. But even here, sometimes specialist advice is required: accurate determination of heat losses, inspection of the building using thermal imagers. There are a number of other subtleties and nuances.

So, for a Russian stove, as for other bell-type heating systems, switching to gas is strictly prohibited due to safety requirements. If we talk about other types of stoves, then this is allowed, but all equipment parameters must be specified in the design documentation. When selecting burner systems for industrial furnaces, the following must be taken into account:

design features;
installation method (hearth, in isolated lines of non-oxidizing heating complexes, etc.);
automation category;
fuel combustion method (atmospheric or with forced suction);
torch type.

For the melting furnace, the use of injection-type devices is recommended. They cope quite effectively with melting non-ferrous metals. According to some experts, you should not buy burners, but make them yourself. There is no choice for the muffle system - in the gas version, such devices are generally not produced by industry. The burners are taken from boilers or they are completely manufactured from scratch. Power is calculated independently.

It is recommended to use a heat generator with integrated heating control. Another important point is the ignition method. The electric igniter depends on a stable power supply, the piezoelectric one is more autonomous.

What types of gas ovens are there?

Gas stoves are used to heat households and country houses, but such devices have gained the greatest popularity in the construction of bathhouses. Most often, for this case, they buy factory-made units that have a metal body. In this case, you need to choose the right model in terms of power and purpose, taking into account the operating conditions. Brick ovens are also being built.

Based on the method of generating heat, furnaces can be divided into two types:

Having a combustion chamber. The gas enters the heating chamber and, when burned, heats its walls.
Furnace with heat exchanger. In the designs of these heating units, gas enters a curved, heat-resistant steel tube, which acts as a heat exchanger.

In the second case, the furnaces are additionally equipped with a system of forced air supply and exhaust of combustion products.

Gas furnaces are distinguished by heat capacity. This indicator depends on the ability of the unit to accumulate heat.

According to this parameter, furnaces are divided into the following categories:

Constant burning stoves. They have thinner walls that cool quickly enough. However, there is a significant plus - they warm up the room just as quickly, releasing heat outside. In order to maintain a constant comfortable temperature in the room, the stove must be in the “on” mode. This is a typical country house option. You can come and immediately warm up.
Intermittent furnace. This is a massive heat-intensive structure that is capable of giving off heat even after the gas is turned off. In order to retain heat, the channels and combustion chamber are lined with clay bricks. It is very convenient to install such stoves in baths. They will warm up the stones in a short time and begin to give off heat for a long time. For heating households, this option is also more acceptable.

Stove gas burners, which are installed in the stove of a household or a country house, are similar to each other. Like a gas burner for a boiler, it has a combustion chamber (heat exchanger), a housing, a smoke exhaust system, channels for heated air and an automatic unit.

However, there is one obligatory part that has its own characteristics in each case - a gas burner for the stove. It is she who is responsible for the efficiency of the heating unit, power characteristics, economical fuel consumption, safe operation and other important parameters.

Single-stage atmospheric gas burners for a home stove are not difficult to use, they are easy to install in a heating unit. They don't need electrical power. This burner is placed on the front side, where the combustion door is located.

If a gas burner is considered from the point of view of the method of controlling thermal power, then all models can be divided into the following categories:

Single stage. In this case, gas supply (switching off) occurs automatically, based on a rheostat signal.
Two-stage. The burner has the design ability to switch to an economical mode. This process is regulated automatically.
Burners with floating adjustment. The burner power can be changed smoothly, from 10 to 100 percent.

Burners are divided according to the method of air supply:

Atmospheric. In this option, no electricity is needed; air flows to the burner under the natural action of draft. The efficiency is not very high, no more than 90 percent. This is a simple design: a pipe with holes into which fuel is supplied. It works in open combustion chambers. They can be quickly converted, if necessary, to use liquid fuel; the service life of such burners is very long. However, such burners impose increased safety requirements.
Supercharged. They are also called blower or fan burners. This is a rather complex design. Air is supplied to the burner by a fan; in this case, the combustion chamber is closed. Efficiency exceeds 95 percent. Stoves with such burners do not require bulky chimneys. At the same time, the furnace operates stably even at low gas pressure. However, they produce a lot of noise and are volatile.
Diffuse-kinetic. The air is partially pumped into the combustion chamber, the rest is supplied directly to the flame.

Which one should I do?

Low-power gas burners for everyday life and small private production are classified according to performance indicators as follows. way:

High-temperature – for precision soldering and welding, jewelry and glassblowing. Efficiency is not important, you need to achieve the maximum flame temperature for a given fuel.
Technological – for metalworking and forging work. The flame temperature is highly desirable not lower than 1200 degrees, and subject to this condition the burner is brought to maximum efficiency.
Heating and roofing systems achieve the best efficiency. The flame temperature is usually up to 1100 degrees or lower.

Regarding the method of burning fuel, a gas burner can be made according to one of the following. schemes:

Free-atmospheric.
Atmospheric ejection.
Supercharged.

Atmospheric

In free-atmospheric burners, gas burns in free space; air flow is ensured by free convection. Such burners are uneconomical; the flame is red, smoky, dancing and beating. They are of interest, firstly, because with an excess supply of gas or insufficient air, any other burner can be switched to free-atmospheric mode. It is here that the burners are ignited - at a minimum fuel supply and even less air flow. Secondly, the free flow of secondary air can be very useful in the so-called. one-and-a-half-circuit burners for heating, because greatly simplifies their design without sacrificing safety, see below.

Ejection

In ejection burners, at least 40% of the air required for fuel combustion is sucked in by the gas flow from the injector. Ejection burners are structurally simple and make it possible to obtain a flame with a temperature of up to 1500 degrees with an efficiency of over 95%, therefore they are used most widely, but cannot be made modulated, see below. According to the use of air, ejection burners are divided into:

Single-circuit - all the necessary air is sucked in at once. With a properly profiled gas channel at a power of more than 10 kW they show an efficiency of over 99%. Can't be repeated with your own hands.
Double circuit - approx. 50% of the air is sucked in by the injector, the rest into the combustion chamber and/or afterburner. They allow you to get either a flame of 1300-1500 degrees, or a CPL of over 95% and a flame of up to 1200 degrees. Used in any of the ways listed above. Structurally they are quite complex, but repeatable on their own.
One-and-a-half-circuit, often also called double-circuit - the primary air is sucked in by the flow from the injector, and the secondary air freely enters a limited volume (for example, the furnace firebox), in which the fuel burns out. Only single-mode (see below), but structurally simple, therefore they are widely used for temporarily starting heating stoves and gas boilers.

Supercharged

In pressurized burners, all air, both primary and secondary, is forced into the fuel combustion zone. The simplest supercharged microburner for benchtop soldering, jewelry and glass work can be made independently (see below), but the manufacture of a supercharged heating burner requires a solid production base. But it is the supercharged burners that allow you to realize all the possibilities of controlling the combustion mode; according to the terms of use they are divided into:

Single-mode;
Dual mode;
Modulated.

Combustion control

In single-mode burners, the fuel combustion mode is either determined once and for all by design (for example, in industrial burners for annealing furnaces), or is set manually, for which the burner must either be extinguished or the technological cycle with its use must be interrupted. Dual-mode burners usually operate at full or half power. The transition from mode to mode is carried out during work or use. Heating (winter - spring/autumn) or roofing burners are made with two modes.

In modulating burners, the supply of fuel and air is smoothly and continuously regulated by automation, working according to a set of critical initial parameters. For example, for a heating burner - according to the ratio of temperatures in the room, outside and coolant in the return. There can be one output parameter (minimum gas flow, highest flame temperature) or there can also be several of them, for example, when the flame temperature is at the upper limit, fuel consumption is minimized, and when it drops, the temperature for a given technical process is optimized.

Homemade gas burners

The main components in the manufacture of powerful gas burners are industrial valves. They may be new, but for a homemade device it is enough to use used ones if there is no gas leak. They are designed to work in tandem with a 50-liter propane gas cylinder, which has an angle valve and a reducer.

Burner with valve VK-74

The structure of this burner is shown in Fig. 1. The oxygen cylinder valve VK-74 is used as a basis. A fitting-handle machined on a lathe is installed at the outlet end, to the corrugated part of which the hose from the cylinder is connected. A cap with a prepared hole with a thread for the nozzle is screwed onto the part of the valve with a conical thread K3/4˝, with which it was connected to the gas cylinder. You can use a ready-made blowtorch or gas stove.

The nozzle is made from a piece of 1/4˝ steel pipe 100 mm long and welded to the cap on two pieces of ∅5 mm wire. A distance of 15 mm should be left between the cap and the nozzle to allow air to enter the combustion zone. The position of the nozzle is adjusted by bending the wire holders to achieve a central flame position.

Sequence of actions to ignite the burner:

Open the cylinder valve;
Place a lit match near the nozzle and slowly open the burner valve;
Control gas ignition;
Adjust the flame using the burner valve

A homemade gas burner of this design has one drawback associated with the location of the valve. The gas flow is directed in the opposite direction to the normal position. Stuffing box seals experience constant gas pressure (including when the valve is closed), so it is necessary to constantly monitor the tightness of the seals.

Burner converted from acetylene gas cutter

If you have an acetylene torch with a faulty oxygen supply valve, do not rush to throw it away. It is also suitable for making a burner (Fig. 2). Gas mini burner

Mini gas burners are more suitable for working with small parts. The mini burner is based on a needle for inflating balls. It is necessary to make a cut in it, a little further than the middle of the needle. Some needles already have a similar hole, which significantly speeds up the work process. Next, you need to take the syringe needle and bend it about 45 degrees in the middle.

It is best to sharpen the pointed end of a syringe needle so that it is straight. After this, it needs to be inserted into the ball needle so that one end comes out through the hole, and the other protrudes from the large needle by several mm. The resulting mini structure should be fixed using soldering. After this, droppers must be attached to the bases of the two needles. Clamps - dropper regulators need to be moved as close to the needles as possible. In the resulting burner they will act as gas and air supply regulators. They also need to be fastened together, and this is best done using a heat gun. All that remains is to connect a source of compressed gas to the finished device, the burner is ready for use. This homemade gas burner can heat objects up to 1000 degrees

You should work with it carefully, observing safety precautions

How to achieve safety

To make a gas burner safe to operate and not waste fuel, the golden rule should be: no scaling or any changes to the prototype drawings at all!

Here the matter is in the so-called. Reynolds number Re, showing the relationship between flow speed, density, viscosity of the flowing medium and the characteristic size of the region in which it moves, for example. cross-sectional diameter of the pipe. From Re one can judge the presence of turbulence in the flow and its nature. If, for example, the pipe is not round and both of its characteristic sizes are greater than a certain critical value, then vortices of the 2nd and higher orders will appear. There may not be physically distinguished “pipe” walls, for example, in sea currents, but many of their “tricks” are explained precisely by the transition of Re through critical values.

Note: just in case, for reference, for gases the value of the Reynolds number at which laminar flow becomes turbulent is Re>2000 (in the SI system).

Not all homemade gas burners are accurately calculated according to the laws of gas dynamics. But, if you arbitrarily change the dimensions of the parts of a successful design, then the Re of fuel or sucked air may jump beyond the limits that it adhered to in the author’s product, and the burner will become, at best, smoky and voracious, and, quite possibly, dangerous.

Injector diameter

The determining parameter for the quality of a gas burner is the cross-sectional diameter of its fuel injector (gas nozzle, nozzle, nozzle - synonyms). For propane-butane burners at normal temperatures (1000-1300 degrees), it can be approximately taken as follows:

For thermal power up to 100 W – 0.15-0.2 mm.
For a power of 100-300 W - 0.25-0.35 mm.
For a power of 300-500 W - 0.35-0.45 mm.
For a power of 500-1000 W - 0.45-0.6 mm.
For a power of 1-3 kW - 0.6-0.7 mm.
For a power of 3-7 kW - 0.7-0.9 mm.
For power 7-10 kW – 0.9-1.1 mm.

In high-temperature burners, the injectors are made narrower, 0.06-0.15 mm. An excellent material for the injector would be a piece of needle for a medical syringe or dropper; from them you can select a nozzle for any of the indicated diameters. Needles for inflating balls are worse; they are not heat resistant. They are used more like air ducts in supercharged microburners, see below. It is sealed into the injector cage (capsule) with hard solder or glued with heat-resistant glue (cold welding).

Power

Under no circumstances should you make a gas burner with a power exceeding 10 kW. Why? Let's say the burner efficiency is 95%; for an amateur design this is a very good indicator. If the burner power is 1 kW, then it will take 50 W to self-heat the burner. A 50 W soldering iron can get burned, but it does not threaten an accident. But if you make a 20 kW burner, then 1 kW will be superfluous; this is an iron or electric stove left unattended. The danger is aggravated by the fact that its manifestation, like Reynolds numbers, is threshold - either simply hot, or flares up, melts, explodes. Therefore, it is better not to look for drawings of a homemade burner for more than 7-8 kW.

Note: industrial gas burners are produced with a power of up to many MW, but this is achieved by precise profiling of the gas barrel, which is impossible at home; see one example below.

Armature

The third factor that determines the safety of the burner is the composition of its fittings and the procedure for using it. In general the scheme is as follows:

Under no circumstances should the burner be extinguished using the control valve; the fuel supply is stopped using the valve on the cylinder;
For burners with a power of up to 500-700 W and high-temperature ones (with a narrow injector, excluding the transition of Re gas flow beyond the critical value), powered by propane or isobutane from a cylinder up to 5 liters at an external temperature of up to 30 degrees, it is permissible to combine control and shut-off valves in one - standard on the cylinder;
In burners with a power of more than 3 kW (with a wide injector), or powered from a cylinder of more than 5 liters, the probability of “overshooting” Re beyond 2000 is very high. Therefore, in such burners, between the shut-off and control valves, a reducer is required to maintain the pressure in the supply gas pipeline within certain limits.

Gas burner: price and characteristics of some popular models

Gas-air burners for roofing are the safest tools. They are easy to use, lightweight, and capable of creating a flame of sufficiently high power. Modern manufacturers offer models that operate without oxygen:

GG-2 – propane burner for the roof. This is the best option for craftsmen who perform repair work themselves. It has an acceptable cost;
GG-2U is a device similar to the previous version, but this model is characterized by a shortened version of the gas supply hose for the gas burner. This device is ideal for performing work in hard-to-reach areas of the roof, as well as for gluing joints;

Before purchasing a burner, it is important to read the specifications of the model and check the quality certificates

GG-2S is a model that belongs to professional tools and runs on propane. The main advantage of the device is that the device can be used even in strong winds. The device is equipped with two valves and consists of two housings, making it easier to control the operating modes of the device;
GGS1-1.7 is a universal design, which, despite its small size and weight, is characterized by a high degree of performance. The device can only be used on flat horizontal areas;
GGK-1 - this burner is heavier than previous designs and is equipped with a very durable glass. This model is suitable for burning old paint, wooden surfaces, as well as for performing waterproofing work. Fuel is supplied using a special lever.
GGS1-1.0 is used for small works of insignificant volumes. Optimally used on roofs with a large angle of inclination;
GGS1-0.5 is used for minor repair work. The model is characterized by low fuel consumption;
GGS4-1.0 consists of four bells, thanks to which the entire roll is heated simultaneously. The use of this option allows you to increase labor productivity and save fuel;

Gas-air burners for roofing are considered the safest tool

GV-3 is a propane torch designed for welding and even manual soldering of metal. The diameter of the glass is 5 cm;
GV-111R is used for melting bituminous materials and firing a layer of paint.
GV-550 and GV-900 are very easy-to-use designs that differ from each other only in the maximum flame length. The first model is more suitable for performing tasks at the junction points of the roof, and the second device allows you to work while standing at full height, since the length of the torch reaches 90 cm;
GV 500 is used to perform surfacing work during laying of roofing materials. This model melts bitumen with ease. The flame temperature of the GV 500 gas burner is 300 °C;
GV-850 is a burner that has a special valve, thanks to which you can precisely regulate the amount of technical gas supplied from the cylinder. There is also a lever installed here, with which the master adjusts the length of the torch. This gas burner does not operate on pure propane, but on a mixture that contains technical oxygen. The price of a gas burner for roofing GV-850 is 1700-2200 rubles.

As you can see, the choice of gas burners is very wide, and where to buy a burner: in a store or on the website depends on the wishes of customers. The main thing is to read the specifications of the model and check the quality certificates for the product.

Gas burners are easy to use, lightweight, and capable of creating a flame of sufficiently high power.

Characteristics and types of injection burners

The design of the forge burner determines the degree of waste of the metal when it is heated for forging, the intensity of scale formation on the surface, and the total gas consumption. In closed forges, short-flame burners are used.

Their design guarantees rapid mixing of the combustible mixture, which ensures high efficiency. Combustion products are removed from the furnace working space evenly and as efficiently as possible.

Operating principle of burners

In burners of this type, propane coming from a gas pipeline or cylinder is burned. Here, a mixture of gas and air is formed due to ejection, i.e. the latter being sucked into the burner under the influence of the energy of a gas jet under pressure.

In the area where air is taken in, a vacuum appears, due to which the air itself moves in a given direction. Mixing in the burner body, the working mixture escapes from it under pressure, creating the desired temperature.

The quality of operation of a gas burner depends on the constancy of the ratio of the volume of gas and air. Changes in gas density affect the burner's ability to suck in air.

The fuel combustion device or burner is the main component of the gas furnace. Its operation depends entirely on the correct manufacture of this key element

All changes in combustion temperature must be accompanied by similar changes in the air supply required for combustion.

If the indicators are unbalanced, the injection coefficient must be adjusted to achieve its stability. This is achieved by changing the gas pressure or adjusting the air damper.

Classification of burners according to main characteristics

They are classified according to different criteria. Based on the volume of primary air sucked in, a distinction is made between partial-mix and full-mix burners. The main characteristics of the former are the injection coefficient and the multiplicity.

The injection coefficient is determined by the ratio of the volumes of air injected and those required for 100 percent combustion of gas. The expression “injection ratio” refers to the relationship between the volume of primary air and the gas consumption of the burner.

Combustion of gas mixed with air in an injection burner occurs in a special nozzle - a tunnel made of refractory material

Injection burners used in home forges come in low (up to 5 kPa) gas pressure and medium - from 5 kPa to 0.3 MPa. When the gas in the burner is under a pressure of 20-90 kPa, the power of air suction remains practically unchanged, even when the gas pressure and vacuum in the furnace undergo changes.

When the pressure drops below this level, the injection coefficient increases, the pressure drops, and the vacuum in the forge increases. Depending on the presence of the distribution manifold, there are single- and multi-flame burners.

There is a division according to the number of nozzles: with one nozzle - single-nozzle, with several - multi-nozzle. These elements are placed in the center or scattered. According to this feature, there are burners with a central nozzle and a peripheral one.

Gasoline burner made from a telescopic antenna

Sometimes, when making homemade products, there is a need to heat up, or even melt, some part or material. Many models of burners can be purchased in stores, but what homemaker would not try to make the tool he needs with his own hands. The author of this homemade product decided to make a gasoline burner from scrap materials. Tools and materials indoor TV antenna; baby juice jar with lid; aquarium compressor (external) with hose; drill ; drill; file; soldering iron; nail 120; ball needle; head-key 4.5.

First, the author disassembles the antenna. Having cut off the antenna on both sides, he pulls out the tubes and gets 3 tubes of different lengths and diameters. A through hole with a diameter of 4 mm is drilled in the middle of the largest tube. To make a faucet, the author cuts a 15mm piece from the average diameter of the tube. Drill a 3mm hole at a distance of 5mm from the edge. Places a piece of tube on the nail, close to the head. Marks on the nail where the hole in the tube is located. Marks the cut line 4mm below the tube. Drills a hole with a diameter of 2 mm in the nail. Cuts the nail along the previously marked line. Inserts the faucet into the hole drilled in the large tube. Aligning the holes in both tubes, solders them. To prevent the nail from popping out, a stopper is used. Cutting off a 4mm piece from the middle tube, puts it on a nail inserted into the faucet. Solders the edge of the nail and the cut piece. It is necessary for the nail to turn in the tap. Next, in order not to break it, the author inserts a piece of wire into the thinnest tube and bends it around the can, forming a semicircle of 70-80 degrees. Makes a nozzle. Cuts off the head of a ball needle. Solders the needle at an angle to the semicircular tube. This is done so that the nozzle can then be inserted into a large tube. Mark the hole on the tube with the tap where the nozzle will be inserted, taking into account that the end of the nozzle should stick out from the tube by a couple of millimeters, and the opposite end of the nozzle tube. The excess can be cut off. Having made a hole (not through) inserts the nozzle. If necessary, the edge of the tube can be trimmed. Cuts the edge of the tube into 6 parts and bends them inward. Inserts the opposite end and solders both sides of the tube. Next he makes the burner head. Cutting off 5mm from the key head, expands the hole with a 5mm drill and places it on the nozzle. Makes a container for fuel. Drill two 4mm holes into the lids of the jars - their holes are opposite each other. Inserts a middle tube into one of them so that it does not reach the bottom of the jar by 1 cm. Stepping back 2 cm from the lid, cuts it off. After sawing off another 2.5 cm from the tube, insert it into the second hole in the lid. Solders the tubes to the lid. The tube from the compressor is connected to the long tube of the container, and the burner is connected to the short one. He pours gasoline into the container and, following safety precautions, lights the burner. You can watch the video in more detail. Source

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Burner design

A standard homemade burner functions this way. Gas is supplied under pressure through a special hose from the cylinder. Most often, propane is used as such gas. The volume of gas supplied is changed by a regulating operating valve located on the cylinder. Therefore, installation of an additional reduction gearbox is not required.

The shut-off valve is located behind the main valve and is mounted on the gas cylinder. It is used to open or close the gas supply. All other adjustments (length and intensity of the flame) of the burner itself are carried out using the so-called working tap. The gas supply hose through which gas is supplied is connected to a special nozzle. It ends with a nipple. It allows you to set the size (length) and intensity (speed) of the flame. The nipple together with the tube is placed in a special liner (metal cup). It is in it that the creation of a combustible mixture occurs, that is, the enrichment of propane with atmospheric oxygen. The created combustible mixture under pressure flows through the nozzle into the combustion area. To ensure a continuous combustion process, special holes are structurally provided in the nozzle. They perform the function of additional ventilation.

The design of such gas devices is developed taking into account ease of operation, prevention, and repair. Therefore, they must be easily disassembled. This simplifies the maintenance and repair process.

Based on this standard design, you can develop your own design. It will consist of the following elements:

housing (usually made of metal);
a reducer, which is attached to the cylinder (use a ready-made device);
nozzles (made independently);
fuel supply regulator (optional);
head (the shape is selected based on the tasks being solved).

The burner body is made in the shape of a glass. The material used is ordinary steel. This shape allows for reliable protection against possible blowing out of the working flame. A handle is attached to the body. It can be made of various materials. The most important thing is that it provides convenience when working. Previous experience shows that the most optimal length of such a handle is in the range from 70 to 80 centimeters.

Gas burner device

A wooden holder is attached to the top. A gas supply hose is placed in its body. This allows you to give the structure a certain strength. The flame length can be adjusted in two ways. Using a reducer located on the gas cylinder and a valve installed on the tube. The gas mixture is ignited using a special nozzle.

Recommendations

The principle of operation of the device is what you should understand before making the device. You can consider it using the example of a burner for roofing work. How does the burner work?

The device is connected to the reducers of oxygen and propane cylinders by a system of supply hoses.
Reducers are placed on the cylinders to create working welding pressure.
A diagram for gas and oxygen is assembled, the tightness of the connections is checked, the nodes are secured, after which the gas can be opened with valves.
The gas pressure is set to the operating value and the valve opens.
The fuel is supplied through hoses to the propane appliance.
The injector carries out the mixing process to form a gas-air environment.
A working flame with a temperature reading above 2000 degrees comes out of the device.

Making a burner is one thing, using it correctly is another. A simple burner can cause an explosion or fire.

When performing any welding work, you must wear personal protective equipment: gloves and goggles, special shoes. You can work with propane cylinders only in a well-ventilated area, and at sub-zero temperatures, any actions with the burner are excluded.

What you should absolutely not do:

work near open fire;
keep the cylinder tilted;
place vessels under the sun;
carry out work without a gearbox;
Warm up the gearbox over an open fire.

If you can clearly smell the gas, work with the burner should be stopped by closing the valve on the cylinder. Homemade burners, depending on the purpose of use, can be different: burners with a VK-74 valve, devices converted from an acetylene gas cutter and mini gas burners. It is realistic, profitable, and useful to build every homemade device. Only initially you need to decide on the type of structure and its parameters. The gas burner is also used in private households and for commercial purposes. In plumbing, a metal workpiece is heated with a torch, which ultimately comes out quite hardened.