Renovator attachments: important information about consumables

One of the modern and popular types of tools is the renovator, which is also called a multitool or oscillator saw. What this device is, its types, operating features and other useful information can be found in this material. This article examines in detail the attachments for the renovator: what they are, for what purposes they are used, and other useful information for those who are just planning to buy this wonderful tool or have already purchased it and are mastering the technique of use.

Wood bits

Wood is one of the most common materials in construction and finishing work, and therefore wood attachments for renovators vary depending on the specific operation with wood:

• for cutting wood, a cutting disk of a spade-shaped, rectangular or other complex shape, called a saw blade, is useful - its functions include plunge-cutting or other sawing not only of wood, but also of other materials (plastic, soft metal, etc.);
• a segmented saw blade has the shape of an incomplete circle, often with a cut edge or with part of a segment of complex shape; sometimes manufacturers complete their multifunctional tools with a full-circle blade;
• for cutting work with wood, you may also need a depth limiter - with its help you can make cuts of certain sizes even without visual control, which will be especially important for hard-to-reach places;
• The rasp disk and sanding pad are used for rough processing of wood and removing large burrs.

Types of shanks on renovator attachments

Attachments, accessories or consumables for a tool such as a renovator have appeared on the shelves of construction stores relatively recently. And many buyers very often wonder what it is and what tool they are intended for. The attachments for the renovator really have a unique design, and are intended exclusively for this device (they are incompatible with other tools). It is contraindicated to use them for an angle grinder or any other tools. Firstly, since they are not suitable for the type of fastening, and secondly, the principle of their operation is based on the vibration effect created directly by the tool itself.

Equipment for renovators, unlike cutting discs for grinders or blades for jigsaws, functions due to vibrations. In even simpler terms, the cutting process is carried out through short movements of the cutting part, which are performed thanks to the special design of the renovator gearbox.

Modern manufacturers offer attachments for multitools designed for cutting wood, metal, drywall, ceramics, concrete, plastic and other materials. In addition, the renovator can be used not only for cutting materials, but also for grinding and polishing them. For this purpose, corresponding types of nozzles are also available. Most expensive tools are equipped with several types of such attachments.

Attachments tend to wear out, so depending on the frequency of use, you will soon need to buy them for your tool. And here it is important to take into account one very important feature - most of these products have universal fasteners, that is, they are suitable for tools from different manufacturers. It should be noted that there are models that are suitable for use only with certain types of devices (from the same manufacturer). They have a unique groove design and are therefore not compatible with other brands of renovators.

This is interesting! Although the cost of attachments for a renovator is not so high, and if you bought such devices and they do not fit your instrument, then do not rush to resell them or return them to the store. Especially for such cases, various adapters are produced that allow you to attach an attachment from any manufacturer to the tool. This is a very important feature, because consumables come in different qualities, and you always want to purchase the most reliable types of equipment from certain manufacturers, which may not always fit tools from other manufacturers.

How to choose a renovator?

Purchasing a tool should be considered carefully

It is recommended to pay attention to the following characteristics:

Type of food. There is mains and battery. For work in the workshop, the first option is suitable, and in all other cases the second. In any case, the optimal operating mode: 15 minutes. work and 10 min. recreation.

Power. The multitool network tool has a rating of 200-500 W. The battery for home use has a power of 12 W, and the professional battery has a power of 18 W.

Oscillation frequency. At high speeds they work with soft materials, at low speeds they saw and grind hard products.

Speed ​​controller

Important for working with different materials that require different nozzle movements.

Maintains constant speed. Feature that helps you maintain the same pace of work

The installed constant electronics ensures a constant speed of work as the load increases.

Attaching the nozzle. Renovator is a device that has two types of connection: manual fixation with a key and a quick-release device. The first option is suitable if the nozzles are changed rarely, the second if they are changed frequently.

In addition, it is recommended to pay attention to the following additions to the renovator:

• electronic speed control;
• smooth start;
• Possibility of connecting to a vacuum cleaner;
• soft pads on the handle.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=Lf4tYPVzBPA%250D

Attachments for renovator

These consumables vary depending on the tasks assigned to them. The multifunctional tool can be equipped with the following types of attachments:

• triangular plate with Velcro;
• carbide pad for polishing;
• semicircular nozzles with diamond chips for metal and concrete;
• immersion sheets with teeth at the end;
• scrapers for scraping linoleum or silicone;
• knives with double-edged blades for scoring;
• attachments for attaching narrow blades and threads.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=Eq9TBqbFelw%250D

Types of attachment attachments and what they affect

For renovators, nozzles are available in different types. First of all, you need to pay attention to the tail section or seat. They can be of the following types:

1. The classic version is the most common type of attachments, which are characterized by reliable fixation, but at the same time have one drawback. It manifests itself in the fact that the attachment cannot be secured in tools with a quick-release fastening method, with the exception of the Star Lock version used in Bosch brand renovators.

2. With a cutout - it greatly simplifies the change of products, because even when using devices with a screw fixation method, the need to completely unscrew the screw is eliminated. Nozzles of this type are very popular. The possibility of the attachment jumping out of the tool spindle is excluded, and depends on the quality of clamping by the clamping mechanism.

3. With an additional hole on the attachment - this hole is designed specifically so that the attachment can be secured in the tool spindle with a quick-release fastening method, or in screw devices, eliminating the need to unscrew the screw. The disadvantage of such designs is that the diameter of the hole is sometimes smaller than the fastening part of the tool, and therefore, to secure the attachment, you have to unscrew the mounting screw.

These are the main types of fastening structures on attachments for renovators. It is also important to note another important detail that is implemented on such devices. Thanks to the large number of additional recesses, it is possible to fix the attachment in the tool spindle at the required angle, which greatly simplifies the performance of the relevant work.

This is interesting! Products from Fein, Rockwell and Craftsman only have 8 possible positions in which the attachment can be attached. For other products this value is 12, which is more convenient.

What a multitool can do

Here are some MFI opportunities:

• cable channels are being installed for them;
• cut installed sewer pipes and internal wall reinforcement;
• remove deposits of plaster, glue, polyurethane foam, and clean off paint;
• peel off linoleum from the floor;
• file nails and screws flush;
• remove grooves in wood and drywall from the end and mortise (submersible);
• cut sheet elastic materials and soft seals;
• trim skirting boards, fillets and cornices in place;
• unstitch the seams on the laid tiles and cut the tiles themselves;
• trim installed door frames;
• grind complex surfaces and hard-to-reach internal corners;
• sharpen tools.

Let us now clarify what a renovator is. Professionals give it the following definition: a tool of last resort. It is indispensable as an auxiliary construction tool at the final stages of work or during remodeling. And when used at home, a multitool will completely save you from buying several power tools.

Scraper attachments for renovators: types and purpose

Another type of attachment for a multitool is scrapers. Outwardly, they are similar to attachments for wood processing, only they are thinner, and instead of teeth they have a sharp edge. The products are available in different shapes, which expands the scope of their application. The main purpose of such products is to remove paint and varnish from wood, metal and other surfaces.

With their help you can remove old glue, wallpaper, linoleum, roofing felt, roofing felt and other materials. Such consumables are very convenient and effective when cutting sealant and polyurethane foam. Manufacturers also produce a special type of renovator attachments, which are designed to perform dismantling work on automobile glass. Scrapers come in both straight and curved designs.

Types of multitools

This type of tool is divided into different options according to many criteria. According to the type of power supply, a universal tool can be:

1. Rechargeable
   . A stand-alone option that can be used anywhere you need.
2. Network
   . Allows you to use the device for as long as you want, but due to the wire it has restrictions on movement.

According to power level, the division occurs into:

• household – up to 100 W;
• semi-professional – up to 300 W;
• professional – above 300 W.

By type of attachment attachment:

• using a hex key;
• modern clamps;
• thanks to the universal adapter.

Which renovator is better, corded or battery-powered?

These two types have both advantages and disadvantages. Before making your final choice, you need to get to know them in more detail. The battery renovator has the following advantages:

1. Ability to work autonomously anywhere you need. An additional convenience is the absence of a cable, which not only interferes with work, but also limits movement.
2. The tool makes little noise.

Network renovators have the following advantages:

1. Electrical operation allows you to use the tool for the desired amount of time without any worry about turning off at the wrong time.
2. The tool is equipped with a high-power motor, which helps it work faster.
3. At the same time, such a renovator weighs less, but needs rest to avoid overheating and, as a result, failure.
4. The compactness of the case helps to use the device in the most difficult to reach places.

Set of attachments for oscillating multi-tool

Some time ago I posted both a review of the MILWAUKEE 2626-20 M18 oscillating saw and a review of various attachments for it. At that time, I was just starting to use it, so from a practical point of view it was difficult for me to say anything. Today I will show you a set of attachments, sold as a set, and also talk a little about my practice of working with such a tool. Let me start by speaking about the instrument itself. Both in the comments to the review and in the comments to the video about attachments, I often see phrases like: 1. Some kind of nonsense, it buzzes, does not cut anything 2. Yes, I can cut it off faster with a hacksaw 3. What does this renovator care about a jigsaw, grinder, or grinder , hammer drill, jackhammer, asphalt paver, etc. and so on.

Friends, this is first of all an auxiliary tool, secondly, a finishing one. They don’t cut grooves for wiring, don’t cut firewood for the winter, and don’t try to sand parquet in a house with an area of ​​400 square meters. Such a tool is needed where you need to work, albeit slowly, but neatly, cleanly, especially in those places where neither an angle grinder nor a jigsaw can reach. In addition, this type of tool is almost completely safe in the sense that it is very difficult to injure yourself with it, unless you drop it on your leg.

I have been using the above-mentioned MILWAUKEE 2626-20 for about two years, for the last year I have been using it: 1. re-laying tiles on the floor, cutting out both the seams and partially cleaning the remaining mortar, since the tiles being laid were the same ones that were removed. 2. I made grooves in the chipboard for adding canopies, and also when it was necessary to precisely fit something. 3. cut the baseboards during installation. 4. cut ceiling plastic 5. cut and adjusted aluminum corners. 6. sanded plastic 7. cut fiberboard

In fact, for the last year it was the second tool after the screwdriver, it was lying next to me and was used when I needed to quickly saw/cut something, at the time of publishing the reviews I didn’t even think that I would get used to it. If you have one, but you are unhappy with it, then either you simply do not have tasks for it, or you are simply not used to it.

But like almost any tool, it requires equipment, in this case these are various saw blades, and today I will talk about them.

I saw this set and decided to try it. By the way, over the past couple of years the situation offline has hardly changed, the choice has become a little larger, but it still leaves much to be desired. The packaging is a simple zip bag, which I accidentally cut when unpacking the parcel, something more durable would be nice, at least a cardboard box.

Judging by the product page, the kit includes 22 items with a total of 100 pieces, although most of these 100 pieces are sanding blades, and there are much fewer saw blades themselves.

Next I will show everything that is included in the set, but I will start with the declared types of steel from which the blades are made: HCS

(high carbon steel) - high-carbon steel, hardness 45-48 HRC, for working on soft materials such as wood, chipboard, fiberboard, plastics
HSS
(high speed steel) - high-speed steel, hardness 61-65 HRC, for working on materials increased hardness, such as mild steel, aluminum and other non-ferrous metals.
Compared to HCS, the metal thickness of HSS files is smaller, and their hardness is much higher. BIM
(bi-metal) is a highly elastic, inextricable connection made of HSS and HCS. Such files are intended for professional use. Used for working on wood, metal, non-ferrous metal, aluminum

SS was also stated in the description

, but here it can be like Stainless steel, i.e. stainless steel blades, and the erroneous spelling of HSS, because there were no markings on the blades themselves.

In addition, I once came across a question about “quick cut”, what is it. The fact is that for equipment (mills, blades, drills, cutters) there is such a thing as cutting speed (for example, the movement of the cutter relative to the surface of the part), for ordinary steel this parameter is about 5 m/min, and for “top” brands of high-speed cutting steel speed reaches 45-50 m/min. Those. The quality of the steel determines the cutting speed; accordingly, hard grades have a high speed and are called high-speed cutters. But these types of steel have another nuance: they do not lose (and sometimes even add) parameters as the temperature increases and can work quite normally at temperatures up to 500-700 degrees; for ordinary carbon steel, the temperature should not be higher than about 200 degrees.

In order to somehow organize everything, I will list them in order of increasing size of the canvases.

To begin with, the narrowest blades, width 10mm, length of the cutting part (before expansion) 25mm. There were two canvases, HCS on wood and the same SS, the material of which remained unknown to me. It is magnetic, but this does not mean at all that it is not stainless steel.

The teeth are straight, sharpening is visible, tooth height is about 1.7mm.

The mount is universal, although the simplest.

Options for tools that this type of fastening is suitable for.

And this is an example of various versions of this mounting option; in the reviewed set, the first type is the simplest; I will give a full description in the form of my own quote.

1. Normal option. 2. Option with a slit at the back. The process of changing attachments makes it a little easier; the fixing screw does not need to be completely unscrewed; it is enough to do it only partially. It really helps. 3. Option with front additional hole. The function is similar to step 2, but much less convenient, for example, in my case, the hole is slightly smaller than the diameter of the screw head and in order to insert it into the hole sideways, you need to unscrew the screw almost completely. 4. Option with a large hole, the convenience is approximately the same as in step 2, but due to a possible decrease in rigidity, it can only be implemented on attachments with a large area, for example, grinding ones.

To make cutting easier, saw blades have a set of teeth, and since this is a rather important parameter, I will give the width of the set as a percentage relative to the main thickness of the blade. The order is as in the photo above. 1. HCS canvas, thickness 0.71mm, spread 38% 2. SS canvas, thickness 0.62mm, spread 43%

Of course, there were some tests, although this is probably too strong a word, since I sawed a small piece of pine lining simply to check how it sawed, and not how it wore out.

I cut out squares in small pieces. Subjectively, the SS blade cuts easier, possibly due to less friction.

By the way, I must say that if you decide that sawing such holes is easy, well, something like how it is shown on promotional videos, then I can say that grated horseradish in a bottle is not at all like that. No, the blade itself cuts normally, but: 1. The workpiece must be securely fastened, so you can immediately forget about sawing such holes in weight. 2. The saw itself must be held very evenly and firmly, because in some situations the blade may begin to hit the edges and go “to pieces,” i.e. wild vibration will begin. Ideally, saw while resting the tool itself against something, even just on the floor.

Wear and tear, and in fact, where can it come from with such a small amount of work, but the paint on the black canvas has worn off, in my opinion it is completely unnecessary there.

The blades are 20mm wide, there are also two blades, HCS and SS, respectively.

In fact, a complete analogue of the previous ones, but with twice the width, the maximum cutting depth is slightly larger, 30mm.

1. HCS - 0.73mm, spread 30% 2. SS - 0.64mm, spread 43%

The check was carried out the same way as with the previous one. Saws, due to its larger width, a little slower, and can also go into overdrive.

Similar to the previous ones, the white blade sawed easier, but the paint on the black one ended up wearing off as well. Otherwise, nothing has changed.

The 31mm wide canvas was given in one version - SS.

The tooth is straight, length about 1.65-1.7mm, maximum cutting depth 38-39mm

Thickness 0.63mm, spread 41%

Since this canvas is already noticeably wider, I simply used it to cut, rather than saw out holes, which are actually more like holes. It was easy to saw, I even liked it, I cut off a couple of pieces of lining.

But there were many canvases with a width of 34mm, both in quantity and in type. 1. HCS, six pieces, the only canvases of which are more than one. 2. HCS with "Japanese tooth" 3. BIM, claimed to be bimetal for heavier loads than previously shown.

The first one is oriented towards wood and is very similar to the previous ones, the tooth is straight, height 1.65-1.7mm. The second is with a Japanese tooth, I talked about them in the previous review, respectively, the tooth is oblique, height 2.5mm. The third is for working with metal, the tooth is straight, height 1mm.

The maximum cutting depth is 40mm, while the blades have metric and inch rulers, although using them is unlikely to be convenient.

1. HCS regular, thickness 0.79mm, set 20% 2. HCS “Japanese tooth”, thickness 0.73mm, set 50% 3. BIM, thickness 0.85mm, set 30%

Since there are more canvases here, I played with them longer. And besides, he timed the cutting of pieces. A blade with a regular tooth, one cut took about 10 seconds. In this and all other tests, the tool’s speed control was in position 6 out of 12. But the blade with the “Japanese tooth” unexpectedly upset me. In the last review, I really liked these blades; they cut much faster than regular ones, but not this time. One cut took about 14 seconds versus 10 for the usual one.

With a regular cloth I made 4 cuts, the one on the right made 3 cuts, and the paint on it peeled off more, although there was a decent amount of smudge.

There was also a blade for metal in this size, I used it to cut a piece of an aluminum case from a power supply, I think many people have an idea of ​​what it is. Aluminum is soft, cutting with a grinder is not very convenient, but here the blade performed just fine, the cut took 15-16 seconds.

And since there were as many as six blades for wood here, out of curiosity I tried it in terms of cutting the same aluminum. Well, what can I say, it cuts a little slower, 17-18 seconds per cut, I didn’t notice any noticeable wear in a couple of cuts, it even seemed to me that in fact all the black blades were made of the same metal and differed only in the size of the teeth.

The width is 45mm, there are two wood blades, the only difference is in the shape of the cutting part.

The tooth is straight, 1.2mm on the left and 1.5mm on the right, which seemed a little strange, I expected them to be the same.

The maximum cutting depth is also different, 50 and 40mm. 1. HCS with depth 50mm, thickness 0.7mm, spread 45% 2. HCS with depth 40mm, thickness 0.71mm, spread 41%

Since here both blades actually differ only in shape, I tried only one and I will say that it cuts just super, one cut took 6-7 seconds. In this case, this is the “fastest” woodworking blade in the set.

The widest (of straight) canvases in the review, their width is 65mm and, in my opinion, they could have been made radius. because working with such wide canvases using an oscillatory tool is not entirely correct.

Both canvases are on wood, but one with a Japanese tooth, the second with a regular, straight one.

Moreover, the first blade is the only one in the set that has a fastening with a cut at the back, which makes changing equipment a little easier.

1. HCS “Japanese tooth”, thickness 0.7mm, separation 88%. 2. HCS regular, thickness 0.76mm, spread 39%

The canvas with the “Japanese tooth” is not only the only one with a cutout in the fastening, it also has the maximum spread of all the canvases in the set.

In general, I had high hopes for the widest canvases in terms of speed of work, but it turned out that everything was not so good. A blade with a regular tooth cuts a test piece of wood in 12-13 seconds. The blade with the “Japanese tooth” cut just a little faster, 10-11 seconds, despite the fact that in my previous tests the difference was about 2 times. But it was significantly inferior to the previous 45mm canvas, which did it in 6-7 seconds.

Naturally, during the test, the width of the canvas was taken into account in order to make maximum use of it. but also not to get on the edges of the canvas.

Disc blades, or more precisely 2/3 of a full disk. Based on my work experience, I can say that this type of canvas is the most convenient, because it almost never needs to be rearranged. In addition, when cutting thin and long (wide) materials, the large blade size helps in the work, although in its own way it interferes. The fact is that when you saw with such a blade, it is almost impossible to move it to the side, but this is also a disadvantage; if you start sawing crookedly, then it will also be very difficult to align the cut. True, because of its size, it is convenient to initially position it exactly along the cutting line. In general, if you are a beginner sawyer, then take these blades.

The first blade with a “cup” is intended for working on wood, the second is completely flat, for metal.

1. HCS, diameter 88mm, thickness 0.7mm, spread 44% 2. HSS, diameter 80mm, thickness 0.78mm, spread 1%

Yes. the second canvas actually does not have a streak, it’s a little strange and somehow even wrong, but I’ll say more precisely after the test.

Based on the relatively extensive experience of working with blades of this shape, I expected that it would cut quickly, since its grip width is larger than that of straight ones, but in reality it turned out that it took 12-16 seconds to make one cut, which is a bit much.

The second canvas, in which I didn’t like the lack of a streak at all, “merged”, one cut took... 40-50 seconds, despite the fact that a regular canvas could handle it in 16. Darkness.

Knife type attachments. Initially I thought that I would use similar ones, but in the end they only came in handy a couple of times, and even then I could do without them. Although, of course, it’s better to have at least one of these on the farm, just in case.

The width of both is 50mm, the only difference is that one has a bend, while it is slightly shorter. since it looks like blanks of the same length were used.

The sharpening is one-sided, but no one bothers you to sharpen them to your taste.

The quality of sharpening is mediocre; there are metal curls at the edges due to the fact that it was simply sharpened to near-zero thickness.

Here we have rather a kind of hybrid of a chisel and a plane, although in reality such canvases cannot be used in either the first or the second. But cutting out a little wood is quite possible, just like removing rough protrusions is realistic. An alternative use is to remove paint from walls, but you will have to sharpen it often.

Next comes not canvases, but also useful attachments in their own way.

To begin with, sanding, which consists of a base with Velcro and a set of sanding cloths of varying degrees of grit.

The first option is narrow, I have never needed it, so if it’s included in the kit, it’s good, if not, then I wouldn’t buy more.

Dimensions.

The set included 4 types of blades, 60, 80, 120 and 180, 5 pieces of each, although the product page states that there should be 5 options, there are not enough blades for 240 grit.

But I have already used this version of the grinding attachment several times and was satisfied.

The only difference is that I used canvases and a holder with additional holes for waste removal.

Everything here corresponds to the description, canvases 60, 80, 120, 180 and 240, 10 pieces of each.

In this case, there is nothing special to test, the canvases are holding, although for some reason at first they tried to move a little, then they adjusted. For the test, I took the same piece of wood and cleaned the place where I pressed it with a clamp. Unfortunately, it’s hard to see in the photo; I sanded first with P60, then P120, and finally P240. It sands well and is easy to get into all sorts of hard-to-reach places. Actually, I’ve done this before, no problems.

Attachments for rough grinding or cutting of hard ceramic materials.

On the left is a cutting disc, I used this for cleaning tile joints from grout, very convenient. Although it is worth saying that I have already erased two attachments. On the right is a grinding attachment for very rough grinding of hard materials, I have never used this one, I don’t even know where to use it in everyday life.

The grinding attachment does not even have grains, but some kind of metal shavings, very large. The cutting wheel has a coating similar to fine sawdust.

Since the sanding attachment is coated on only one side, the overall thickness is the same.

I tried cutting ceramic tiles. It cuts, almost doesn’t even chip, but slowly.

And besides, it noticeably wears out, so the purpose of such an attachment is rather to clear seams or cut where no other tool can reach.

I used a second blade to sand off the protrusions on the back of the tile, there is almost no wear, it sands slowly but surely, and perhaps the main thing for some is almost no dust. In general, all the tests took place in the living room and I wouldn’t say that I sprayed too much.

It took almost the entire charge of the 2Ah battery to cut all this, the oscillator saw is very power hungry, so I would recommend using a 4-5Ah battery, which I don’t have yet.

And this is the canvas that I use most often. I bought it a long time ago in the Kharkov Epicenter, I don’t remember the manufacturer, but it’s not Bosch, Metabo, etc., it’s marked as HCS, i.e. the main thing is wood. At the same time, I used it to saw both wood itself and plastic, aluminum corners, LED profiles, and radiators. I had other canvases, I was just too lazy to change them, and it was convenient to use. Yes, there is a little wear, and on the side of the teeth that faces inward, but it still cuts and cuts well.

What can we say in the end? In fact, the set would be quite good; it probably contains almost everything necessary for an oscillator instrument user. But unfortunately, the quality of some blades was disappointing, especially for saws with a “Japanese tooth”, which turned out to be no better than regular blades and a disc blade without a streak. I liked the SS canvases. I’ll assume that it’s stainless steel, but I don’t have the opportunity to check. They cut well and have good glide. Some ordinary blades also cut normally, but very narrow ones will most likely just lie in the box. The knives and grinds don’t stand out in any way; I think you’ll find these in other sets as well. the same applies to abrasive cloths.

I foresee the question - what about the abrasive discs for the grinder that are attached to the multi-tool? Yes, I saw such an option; moreover, when I finished the repair, I even grabbed the rest of such a disk and wanted to experiment. But two things stopped us: 1. The disk itself got lost somewhere during the transportation of the instrument, but this is exactly the problem that can be solved. 2. I simply feel sorry for killing my instrument with equipment not intended for it.

I’ll say something about the second point separately. For such a tool, it is extremely important that the attachments fit tightly and without play. If there is play, the nozzle begins to break the cartridge, so there may be problems with very thin blades, their mounting holes are less durable. And believe me, it is better to throw away an unsuccessful attachment than to change a cartridge, which most likely will not be so cheap.

The store has promotional codes JDXMAS100 - amount from 100 and minus 15 JDXMAS4 - amount from 4 dollars and minus 1

That's all for today, I hope it was useful.

The product was provided for writing a review by the store. The review was published in accordance with clause 18 of the Site Rules.

Nuances of choice

Depending on the manufacturer and supplier, the equipment of a multifunctional tool can be supplemented with interchangeable attachments for one purpose or another. Among them there may be additions that are identical in purpose, differing only in dimensional parameters, or removable elements designed to perform work of a different nature.

When purchasing a renovator, it is important to pay attention to the quality of the tool itself. The duration of its uninterrupted operation will depend on the name of the manufacturer and the originality of the brand indicated on the specific packaging

The presence of an initial list of attachments is explained by the manufacturer’s desire to attract potential customers. Therefore, when purchasing a renovator, it is worth taking this fact into account and having the opportunity to purchase replacement elements from a third-party manufacturer.

First of all, it is worth determining the name of the target work, the implementation of which will be carried out using a multifunctional tool. This will save money on the purchase of add-ons and also ensure the best production workflow.

It should also be remembered that in order for the renovator to carry out the same working manipulation, nozzles of various configurations, classes and sizes can be used. Taking this into account, it is necessary to make a detailed assessment of the proposed work and draw appropriate conclusions in favor of one or another attachment.

In some cases, the right solution would be to purchase a specialized set containing renovator additions for various purposes. This is relevant for those who are engaged in construction and other technical work on an ongoing basis.

Attachments produced by multifunction tool manufacturers as a separate product line have better quality characteristics than complete items.

In this regard, it is worth paying attention to individual units and sets of add-ons supplied by reputable companies

High quality class:

• Bosch;
• Hilti;
• Makita.

Average quality class:

• "Interskol";
• "Bison";
• "Specialist".

Before purchasing a renovator or a removable addition to it, you need to familiarize yourself with the list of their modifications and target properties.

Nozzles designed for sawing soft materials (wood, plastic, composite and others) are equipped with teeth, the size of which may vary depending on the shape of the nozzle and its purpose. The location and shape of the teeth do not suggest the presence of a divorce. Common configurations of such add-ons are shown in the photo.

There are nozzles for concrete and metal. Their working properties are ensured by a diamond cutting edge consisting of high-strength components. They come in saw and plunge-cut types. The latter allow you to cut closed holes in concrete, metal and ceramics while maintaining high accuracy. Some options for such attachments are shown in the photo.

For processing wooden and other soft surfaces, nozzles in the shape of a triangle are used, the sides of which have a rounded profile. They can be equipped with a non-removable abrasive coating, as well as a special Velcro, which allows you to replace the sanding cloths with cloths of a different grain size without changing the attachment itself.

When choosing removable attachments for a renovator, you need to take into account the compatibility of certain attachments with the fastening mechanism of this tool. Its models, produced by different manufacturers, can be equipped with fastening mechanisms with individual design characteristics inherent in the devices of this manufacturer.

In their list, one can note the presence of a description of the functional features of the add-on, information about the manufacturer and supplier, dimensional characteristics, which determine the possibility of use in combination with a particular model of the renovator.

To learn how to choose a renovator and what to look for when purchasing, watch the following video

Saw blades for wood for the renovator: differences in the shape of the teeth and what they affect

The market for consumables for renovators offers a wide variety of them. One of the important parts of equipment for cutting wood is its cutting part. It is presented in the form of teeth, which come in different sizes, and also differ in the presence of setting or its absence.

Initially, we will pay attention to the issue of the operation features of saw blades for renovators, which have medium-sized teeth of a straight shape and without setting

. Their main advantage is the ability to obtain a thin and accurate cut, but the disadvantage is that the products have low productivity and are not suitable for large volumes of work.

Looking at such devices, you will notice that straight-type nozzles have smooth triangular teeth, the length of which does not exceed 1 mm. The thickness of the blades is 0.8 mm, which has a positive effect not only on the quality of the cut, but also on the speed. At the ends of the teeth of round-shaped attachments there may be a edging designed to facilitate the process of sawing the material.

Now let's look at what kind of cut can be obtained using the appropriate type of attachments. For example, a pine board is used.

As you can see from the photo, the cut on the outer surface is clean without the slightest chips or other defects. The inner part naturally has chips, so before using the equipment, it is important to determine which side of the material being cut will be the front side.

Now let's look at the features of the functioning of saw blades for renovators, the teeth of which are set

. Due to this design, the cutting width increases, but at the same time eliminates the possibility of the nozzle jamming during work. Such devices are effective when a renovator needs to cut thick wood.

The tooth spacing on the nozzles varies. This can be a standard method of divorce, which is characterized by alternately placing them in different directions with passing through one. There are also nozzles that have a “group spread” and “wave spread”. How they differ can be seen in the photo below.

The use of such blades is justified when it is necessary to cut thick wood, and the quality of the cut is not as important as in the first case. The actual appearance of the saw blade teeth for a renovator with teeth set is shown in the photo below.

How this type of tool shows itself in operation can be seen in the photo below.

Now let's move on to considering attachments for the renovator with a “Japanese tooth”.

They are considered one of the most highly efficient and productive equipment, and are in great demand. Let's take a closer look at why this happens.

Japanese tooth attachments are easy to distinguish from previous options. The teeth not only have a large height of about 2-3 mm, but also have a characteristic sharpening.

Among the advantages of such equipment, it should be noted the high speed of operation, which is actually achieved by the large height of the teeth. In addition, the cut is of quite high quality, and no worse than that of previous products. It is worth noting only one important feature - it is recommended to use such consumables only when sawing soft wood. If you try to saw through hard wood, you may end up missing a few teeth.

It is recommended to use nozzles of this type; then a large amount of work remains. Again, it is important to note that the renovator is not able to replace a jigsaw or chainsaw, so this type of tool must be used responsibly.

This is interesting! Unlike previous options, the blade with the Japanese tooth shape cuts only in one direction. And at the same time the cutting speed is quite high.

On the shelves of hardware stores there are also attachments for renovators, which have oblique teeth. Such devices are also designed for sawing wood, although the outward design is very similar to the shape of the teeth, as on blades for metal. The products are characterized by low sawing speed, but at the same time provide high-quality cuts. In addition, they can also be used on plastic and drywall.

Summing up the use of wood saw blades for renovators, it should be noted that they must be selected depending on the technological tasks set. If it is necessary to obtain an even cut, you should use attachments with a small tooth without setting. If it is necessary to cut thick wood, and the quality of the cut does not play a big role, then it is better to use attachments with large and high teeth that have a set.

Manufacturers of consumables for power tools not only modernize their products, but also develop new products. For a multitool, you can purchase equipment that has the shape of a slingshot.

Such devices are similar in design to bow saws. They are intended for cutting wood of small thickness. The thickness is limited by the size of the blades attached to the nozzle. Unlike standard end-type devices, they are characterized by a high speed of achieving the assigned tasks.

Making a nozzle for a renovator with your own hands

The described method allows you to make an excellent, durable saw for wood and plastic; more about metal a little later.

1. We buy a high-quality woodworking hacksaw with a fine tooth in the store. As a rule, it has high quality steel and, most importantly, a wide blade, which allows us to fully restore the nozzle, including its length.

2. Mark the hacksaw blade along the width of the nozzle and cut it into blanks using a grinder. This saw will make 7 of them.

3. Cut off the working part from the original nozzle.

4. Mark and drill 2 mounting holes in it. First we use a 1.5 - 2 mm drill.

5. We release the back part of the blanks from the file, heating it with a gas burner until it glows crimson and allowing it to cool in the air.

6. We mark the holes, aligning them with the prepared part of the standard nozzle, and drill them, using drills sequentially: first, the same as when drilling the shank of the nozzle, and then with a diameter of 6 mm. Using the same drill, we enlarge the holes in the shank.

7. After drilling and marking, we bend the released part of our blanks to an angle slightly less than that of the standard tool. We connect both parts using short M6 bolts - the angle will be leveled.

Such an attachment will serve you for a long time no worse than a standard one from a good manufacturer; it will cost at least 5–6 times less, taking into account the cost of a hacksaw and 6 spare working surfaces. And it will do its job just as well as a purchased one, or even better.

Yes, do not forget about the possibility of repeated sharpening, which is provided by the manufacturer of the hacksaw that served as the donor of the blades.

Lastly. For metal, you can also take a good hacksaw blade, cut it into pieces and carefully weld it to the base, removing the worn part

Here it is important to weld the blade with teeth efficiently and without overheating and carefully process the thickness of the seam

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