How to use a wood planer

A plane is a traditional carpenter's tool, a kind of symbol of this profession. The shape of the instrument and the methods of working with it, despite its technical improvement over many years, have not essentially changed.

In order for the process of planing a wooden workpiece to proceed “without a hitch” (as evidenced by the twisted shavings freely coming out of the slot in the plane block), it is necessary to accurately adjust the plane knife and correctly move the plane along the surface being planed.

Planing is a real pleasure when thin and long twisted shavings fly out of the plane.

Having fixed the plane knife with the chipbreaker exposed in the vice of the workbench, lightly tighten the screw. After wedging, the chipbreaker fixes itself due to its springiness.

Insert the knife into the tap hole of the plane and first secure the wedge in its guides by hand.

To determine whether the knife is positioned correctly (its blade should be parallel to the plane of the sole of the plane and slightly protruding above it), you simply need to turn the plane over and evaluate the mutual parallelism of the knife blade and the sole by eye. To adjust (if necessary) the position of the knife, release the wedge, align the knife correctly and fix it again with the wedge.

When planing the faces of workpieces, the knife should remove chips of uniform thickness. To do this, you need to adjust the chipbreaker of a jointer, a double plane (with a double blade) or a sander. The chipbreaker performs the function corresponding to its name and should be installed slightly above (about 1 mm) the knife blade and fit snugly against it.

First, the knife with the chipbreaker fixed on it is inserted into the slot (tap) of the block (body) and slightly wedged. Then set the knife with light blows of the hammer so that its blade is parallel to the sole of the plane and protrudes slightly above it. After this, the knife is finally fixed in the block with a wedge, screw or cam clamp (depending on the design of the plane).

Since during planing the upper part of the worker’s body moves together with the plane, the carpenter must stand on the side parallel to the workpiece being processed, with one leg placed forward. To prevent the plane from tipping over at the beginning and end of the workpiece (then the surface being processed in these areas will be uneven), you should lean harder first on its front handle, and then on the back handle at the exit.

PRECISION PLANE

In modern planes with a metal block, the blade is usually secured with a screw. With another screw (set screw), you can adjust the plane to the required thickness of the chips being removed with an accuracy of hundredths of a millimeter. In addition, such planes are equipped with a so-called knife tilt regulator, which allows you to quickly, just by pressing the thumb on the corresponding lever, correctly position the knife blade relative to the sole of the plane.

EDGE PLANING

When planing the edges of flat workpieces, you should move the plane along an even path along the entire length of the workpiece, leaning evenly on it. In this case, the knife must be secured securely so that it does not vibrate in the block. In addition, you should avoid tearing the chips by cutting in the direction of the wood grain. When processing wood pieces with thin and irregular texture (for example, root), the knife must be sharpened very well. When planing, such a workpiece should be constantly rotated.

It is more convenient to plan a narrow edge using, for example, a piece of board pressed against the workpiece, or plan simultaneously the edges of several thin boards collected in a package. In this case, the supporting surface for the sole of the plane increases.

To prevent the edge from becoming rounded, the plane must be held level, without tilting in any direction.

With Sherhebel you can remove a thicker layer of material in one pass.

Planing the end of the workpiece will be much easier if you hold the plane at an angle to the faces of the workpiece.

Wide wooden overlays, attached with a clamp to both edges of the workpiece, will prevent chipping when processing the end.

The surfaces of short-length workpieces are very smooth with a silky shine after processing with just a sander.

When planing layers, it is necessary to constantly check their processed surface with a steel square.

When processing long workpieces, a jointer has proven itself best, as it can be used to plane even against the grain.

PLANING PLATES

To make a rough but even surface smooth, it is enough to treat it with a sander (a tool with a knife angle increased to 60° for fine planing of hard-to-cut wood) and a jointer. To eliminate unevenness or remove a thicker layer, treatment with Sherhebel will be required. The latter is equipped with a narrow (33 mm wide) convex knife with an oval blade, capable of removing chips up to 3 mm thick in one pass. After this, the surface must be leveled with a sander and “smoothed” with a jointer.

CLEANING THE ENDS

When cleaning the ends of the workpieces, the plane is driven in the direction “away from you”, making short pushes with it. In this case, the wood fibers are cut crosswise, which requires somewhat greater effort and the use of a very sharp knife. To avoid chipping at the edge in the direction in which the end of the workpiece is being machined, you can first chamfer this edge. It’s better to first process one half of the end to the middle, and then, turning the workpiece 180°, the second half.

More than during operation, the blades deteriorate from contact with foreign objects when the plane is not used. During breaks in work, the plane should be placed on its side or with the front of the sole on a wooden stand. During long-term storage or when transporting the plane in a tool box, the knife should be placed inside the block.

Source: niola-td.ru

How to choose and use an electric planer correctly

An electric plane is an essential tool for anyone who deals with wood processing, and during construction or renovation it can become an indispensable assistant. In everyday life, a traditional hand plane is usually enough for a home craftsman, but in a private farmstead or summer cottage there is plenty of woodworking. Baths, outbuildings, fences, benches and other furniture - the list goes on and on.

An electric planer will save the craftsman a lot of time and effort and allow him to achieve good results. Using an electric planer, workpieces are brought to the required dimensions, surfaces are leveled, nicks, burrs and knots are removed, edges are cut, and grooves are selected. A plane, of course, is not capable of “fine” processing of surfaces to perfect smoothness; this will require additional tools. But with its main task - rough processing of wood in large volumes - the electric planer, if the operating rules are followed, copes “excellently”.

As when choosing any power tool, when choosing an electric planer, a master should start from the main tasks in which the tool will be most often involved. An important role is played by the power of the tool, which is directly related to its performance. A plane of greater power plans “deeper”, that is, it can remove a thicker layer of wood in one pass. Manual electric planers are produced with a power ranging from 0.5 to 2.2 kW. Above one and a half kilowatts is, in fact, a professional tool for large-scale work. If you plan to use the plane frequently and in large volumes, it makes sense to take a closer look at more powerful models. But, as always, the rule applies: the more powerful the tool, the more it weighs and the higher its price. It will be convenient to work with a low-power plane while suspended. Medium power models weigh between 2.5-4 kg.

Another indicator is the rotation frequency of the drum, that is, the number of revolutions it makes per unit of time. This value is very important to consider when choosing a plane, says FORUMHOUSE wind1wind: the higher the number of revolutions, the better the quality of the cut. The optimal option that you should focus on when choosing is 15000-16000 rpm.

wind1wind:

– The plane does not create a completely flat surface, but a “wave” with very fine steps. To make this waviness invisible, the number of shaft revolutions and the number of knives on the shaft are increased. These two parameters are very important when choosing.

Safety rules when working with an electric planer

An electric planer is a device that requires safety precautions when working with it. The main damaging (traumatic) factors are:

a tool drum rotating at high speed with knives located on it;
electric current flowing through the device.

To safely work with an Interskol electric planer or any other model, you must follow the following rules.

The workplace must be kept clean and well lit.
Do not use power tools in areas where there is a significant risk of fire or explosion due to the presence of flammable liquids, dust or gas.
Do not allow unauthorized persons or children near the operating tool, and it must be stored in a place inaccessible to them.
It is forbidden to be distracted by other things while working, as this may cause loss of control over the tool.
Do not allow water to come into contact with the power tool you are using, and do not carry it while holding it by the cord.
If an extension cord is used, it must be suitable for the load and also have complete insulation.
The power cable should be kept away from very hot objects and temperature sources, from moving parts of various mechanisms, as well as from sharp edges and various liquids (especially oil).
It is prohibited for the body to come into contact with grounded surfaces (for example, radiators and heating pipes) while working with the plane.
It is prohibited to use power tools while under the influence of alcohol or drugs, as well as under the influence of medications or fatigue.
Preventive maintenance of the device should be carried out regularly.
Do not touch the running drum with your hands.

Connecting a power tool through an RCD (residual current device) in any case increases the safety of working with the equipment. Protection should be selected according to the load size.

How to work with an electric planer correctly?

Many beginners are interested in the question of how to work with an electric planer. At first glance, there is nothing complicated: plug it into a power outlet, press a button, move it back and forth across the surface, removing chips. However, during the first attempts, the result is not always impressive.

When purchasing a tool, you need to check its functionality, completeness and appearance. It is worth paying attention to the sharpening quality of the installed knives. If the kit contains spare knives, you need to check them too. The cutting edge should be smooth, sharp, without gouges or bends. All other settings should be checked at home in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.

Warm floor and laminate

Laminate allows you to create any type of warm floor with your own hands. But, taking into account the characteristics of the material and the complexity of installation/maintenance work, infrared heated floors can be considered optimal.

There is too much fuss with the water one, and you can’t simply connect it to the centralized heating system, and using a cable covered with a screed does not make sense, because the bulk of the electricity will go to waste.

Everything is ready to lay the laminate

The main part of an infrared heated floor is a thin film, which, when connected to the network through a thermostat, heats up when electric current flows through it. Such systems are sold ready-made and even a non-specialist can install it; just install the thermostat closer to the film and power the system.

The design of the floor itself will change slightly - you will need an additional heat-insulating layer under the infrared film so that the heat is reflected from it and goes into the room, and not under the floor.

Infrared heated floor in section

Note! It is undesirable to install such systems in rooms where the humidity level is quite high.

Warm flooring under a laminate on a wooden floor does not in any way affect the durability of the floor covering itself, because the surface temperature will be on average 25ᵒC.

Checking and adjusting the position of the front plate

All adjustments to the tool must be made in the off state. The plug must be unplugged from the socket, otherwise you can not only damage the electric planer, but also cause serious injury.

Table of main parameters of electric planers.

When checking the position of the knives, the front plate must be set to the minimum planing depth position using the standard adjustment knob. Place the electric planer on a flat, hard surface with the drum facing up.

To check, you can use a metal ruler or a piece of window glass of suitable dimensions. The drum with knives should be rotated until one of the knives is in the upper position, above the drum axis. The ruler or glass must be laid on the slabs along the plane. The surfaces must be in the same plane.

If the control device on any of the plates is tilted, you need to check the position of the front plate and adjust it. Such a defect occurs during long-term operation of the tool without maintenance. The internal cavities can become clogged with wood dust and small shavings. Excessive force on the depth adjustment handle displaces it from its original position.

To eliminate the defect, you need to remove the handle, the front plate, clean the cavities from dust and chips, and lubricate them. Place the plate in place, check the installation using a ruler, secure the handle, checking that the dial matches the index mark.

How to plan with a plane correctly?

And now a few words about the mentioned direction of fibers or “wool”, as it is also called. Be sure to move only in the direction of the fibers. If you do this “against the grain,” you may end up causing bullying. Although in fairness it is worth noting that often (especially for wide boards, etc.) the fibers are directed in different directions - that is, from one to one, and from the other to the other (sorry for the tautology). Moreover, sometimes it is difficult to even determine where exactly the fibers are directed, although this can be clearly felt directly during the planing process. In one direction the tool will produce small thin chips, in the other it will become scuffed. In such cases, it is better to turn the workpiece around and move from the opposite end.

Attention! It is easier for a left-handed person to plan if he is on the right side of the workpiece, for a right-handed person - if he is on the left.

Adjusting the position of the cutting edge

Adjustment of the position of the knives is carried out according to two parameters:

height of the cutting edge relative to the back plate;
the size of the protruding part of the knife for planing quarters.

Layout of the drum with blades.

Having installed the ruler or glass, you need to rotate the drum, controlling the gap between the knife and the device at the edges of the slabs. The edge of the knife should lightly touch the tool without lifting it. If the knife clings to the device or does not reach it, the position must be adjusted.

Typically, knives are secured with a special wedge with expansion bolts. Using an 8 or 10 wrench, you need to screw the bolts into a wedge until the bolt moves freely. Then, using the installed eccentrics, align the height of the cutting edge with the device. Tighten (unscrew) the mounting bolts and check the position again. The desired result can be achieved after several repetitions of this operation.

At the same time as adjusting the height of the cutting edge, you need to control the protruding part of the quarter planing knife. The optimal size should be indicated in the manufacturer's instructions. On most models it is 1 mm. The size is set by moving the knife left or right along the axis of the drum. It is important to set the size correctly. It should be the same on all knives. This can be achieved by using a feeler gauge of a certain size or by measuring the distance with a caliper (a caliper with a protruding back) from the edge of the knife to the drum. After adjusting the first knife, you need to move on to the next ones. The operation for all knives is performed similarly. If a knife cannot be installed in the required position, you need to remove the wedge and check the eccentrics for integrity and free rotation.

The adjustment must be completed by checking the free rotation of the drum and the fastening of all knives.

How to hold a plane

The plane must be held with both hands at once, the tool pressed slightly and moved along the product parallel to the edge from one edge to the other. Although if the plane is small and light, then it can be held with one hand. In the case of the wide board described above, it is necessary to make a couple of parallel passes, in which one strip will be next to the other. If the board is long, then it is preferable to plan it in sections, smoothly moving forward.

Preparing for work

The tool can be used in two positions:

Plane sharpening angle diagram.

stationary position: the electric planer is attached to a rigid, stable surface;
portable: the tool is moved manually along the workpiece.

Many models come with special clamps and a bracket for the start button. In a stationary position, it is more convenient to process short-length lumber, which can be moved along the tool alone. It is advisable to process long workpieces with a portable electric planer.

The wood must be dried; raw lumber is poorly processed. The board must be firmly secured to a hard surface. The part should not sag under the weight of the plane and shift during operation in any direction. When processing side surfaces on a workbench, it is advisable to install them on special fastenings that protect them from bending and movement. In the area of rotation of the drum with knives there should be no metal elements (brackets, nails, screws) on the surface being processed or fastening elements. Hitting the metal will leave a gouge in the blades, and a protrusion will form on the surface being treated. The knives will have to be sharpened, removing a thick layer of metal, or replaced.

What is done with a plane and its varieties

Each type of plane is designed for a specific task or nuance.

Planer: needed to level the surface over a large area.

It is distinguished by a long sole and the presence of a double incisor. The first chip is obtained from separate pieces, the second is continuous, finishing. The good thing about the jointer is that it is suitable for almost untreated surfaces.

Jointer

End plane: used to obtain a finishing surface of the ends.

The main difference is the short length and installation angle of the knife (21 degrees).

End plane

Additional planer: purpose - high-quality cutting of corners along the edges of the workpiece. For this purpose, an adjustable mechanism is made. The cutting edge is made of high-hardness steel.

Tongue (groove): used for selecting tongues - narrow grooves at a certain distance from the end.

It has a guide to strictly maintain the parallelism of the resulting groove and the side edge. The depth and width of the groove are adjustable.

Tongue and pile pile

Zenzubel: for creating features such as long grooves and edges on wood surfaces.

Performs cutting of grooves and grooves, processing edges, quarters and folds. The selector (another name) deepens the intended groove.

Zenzubel

Rebate: the tool is designed for making grooves for installing glass.

It differs from the usual zenzubel, which is also needed for grooves, in its sole with steps. Parts of the sole can be removable. You can install another special knife on the side - for the quarter wall.

Sander and double sander: allow you to get a super clean surface. The knife is installed at an angle of 50 degrees (the usual value is 45 degrees).
Kalevka: figured processing of the edges of the workpiece.
Tsinubel: a device needed for making small depressions for further gluing of parts (technological increase in usable area).
Primer: gives the workpiece the specified function of a trapezoidal groove - using a specially shaped knife. The groove is located across the fibers of the material.

There are other, much more specialized, varieties of planes used at the professional level. Including the creation of rounded shapes (for example, a staff gobel).

Surface treatment

An electric planer can perform three operations:

Scheme of options for sharpening a plane knife.

chamfer at different angles;
select quarters on blanks;
plan surfaces.

The main purpose of the tool is to plan surfaces of various lengths and widths.

When working, the plane must be placed on the surface of the workpiece with the front plate so that the knives do not touch the surface. Press the start button, after picking up speed (the sound stops changing pitch) begin moving the plane along the surface. The tool must be held strictly parallel to the surface being processed, the movement must be uniform, without jerking or stopping. When starting to move, you need to increase the pressure on the front part, and when exiting the surface to the rear part. The plane should work smoothly, without vibration. If strong vibration occurs or the sound changes during operation, you need to turn off the tool, determine and eliminate the cause of the abnormal operation.

The depth of the passage must be set depending on the processing purposes. If you need to change the size of the workpiece, you can use the maximum size. When leveling the surface, it is advisable to work with a shallow processing depth, achieving the required quality in several passes.

Also, the depth of processing depends on the material. Hard rocks should be passed several times at shallow depths to avoid overloading the tool.

Laying the laminate correctly

This material is particularly sensitive to the quality of base preparation, so this process will be examined especially closely. After preparing the old wooden floor, laying the flooring itself will not take much time.

Checking the strength of the old foundation

An old wooden floor often creaks under load - this is a sure sign that some of the joists are rotten or some of the boards require replacement.

For high-quality preparation of the base, several recommendations can be given:

The most radical way is to remove the floorboards and inspect the joists. If there is even the slightest hint of damage to the wood due to moisture or insects, it changes;

In advanced cases, you will have to re-lay the floor

Note! Plywood under the laminate on a wooden floor is laid only after the floor has been repaired. If you lay it on sagging floorboards, the laminate will not last long.

in old houses, the spacing between the joists may be such that the floorboards sag when walked; in the case of laminate flooring, this is unacceptable; the locks on the sides will wear out in a matter of months. In this case, it will be necessary to lay additional wooden logs;
in the most advanced cases, the logs can simply lie on the ground; the instructions for preparing the floor for laminate do not allow this. You can simply raise them above ground level by laying brick pillars;

The joists need to be replaced here

but if the logs are laid on top of a concrete base and are not attached to it, then it would not be superfluous to attach them to the concrete base with metal anchors;
Next, we inspect the floorboards themselves; there should be no cracks or traces of insects. If some of the floorboards have to be replaced, then you can only use boards of the same thickness; a difference in height of even a couple of millimeters is unacceptable.

Leveling the floor with an electric planer

Detailed requirements for the quality of the wooden base for laminate flooring are contained in the SNiP standard 3.04.04-87. The main thing to pay attention to is the evenness of the surface. The requirements are very strict, unevenness of no more than 1 mm/2 m2 of area is allowed, this can be explained by the fact that the laminate boards are connected into a lock, and differences in height of the base will lead to its rapid destruction.

If the laminate is laid on an uneven base, the lock will quickly collapse

As for the surface preparation itself, you can proceed to it only after the correction of more serious defects (such as sagging floorboards, rotten joists) has been completed.

Instructions for leveling the floor are as follows:

first, the cracks are puttied, unevenness on the floor surface is measured, it is advisable to use a grinder or electric planer only to eliminate height differences within 4-7 mm;
then the floor is divided into squares and each of them is machined;

The sanded part is highlighted in color

Note! You can treat the entire floor at once, but in this case it will simply be more difficult to control the quality of the surface.

Before processing, all nails must be buried inside the board with hammer blows. Moreover, you don’t need to hit the board as hard as you can with a hammer, leaving dents; just use a punch. It is placed against the head and the nail is carefully buried in the board. If this is not done, then when leveling the floor, the knives of the power tool will simply be damaged;

To avoid damaging the boards, it is better to embed the nails using a punch.

The finishing touch can be considered removing dust and thoroughly cleaning the already prepared floor. This needs to be taken seriously, the price of laminate flooring can be quite high, and it would be a shame if a fresh floor starts to creak due to dust getting into the joints.

Leveling the floor with plywood sheets

The question of how to level wooden floors under laminate can be solved in another way - using a flooring made of thick sheets of plywood or chipboard, OSB. This approach can be considered optimal - after all, thanks to the large size of the sheet, the load will be evenly distributed on the floor over a larger area and the likelihood of severe deformations is low.

There are a number of nuances in this matter:

First, it is advisable to draw a diagram of the room and estimate the location of the sheets. In this case, each next row of sheets must be shifted relative to the previous one. That is, there should be no cross-shaped joints;

The photo shows that the sheets are offset relative to each other

the sheets are not laid end to end, but at a distance of about 3 mm - a kind of expansion joint. Due to it, when the temperature in the room increases, a bump will not appear on the floor surface at the junction of the sheets;
the sheets are attached to the floor with self-tapping screws; they should form a grid on the surface of the sheet with a pitch of 100 mm. This is necessary so that both the plywood sheet and the plank floor work as one;
The minimum thickness of plywood for laminate flooring on a wooden floor is assumed to be equal to the thickness of the floor covering. But it is undesirable to use sheets thinner than 10 mm;
When fastening a sheet with self-tapping screws, the hole is first countersunk with a drill of a larger diameter. As a result, the head of the screw turns out to be recessed into the plywood by several mm;

Sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws

After this, the surface of the plywood is sanded with a sanding machine. The floor should then be vacuumed, perhaps even wiped with a slightly damp cloth.

Additional tool features

To remove chamfers, you need to use a special triangular groove cut out on the front plate of the plane.

The tool should be positioned with the groove at the angle to be processed, launched and moved along the part while maintaining the tilt. The first pass is made along the slot; subsequent passes, if necessary, are carried out in the usual manner.

To make quarters on a plane, you need to install an additional stop to limit movement away from the direction of movement. The second stop, limiting the depth of the quarter, is located on the side surface. The stops must be set to the required dimensions. The distance should be measured from the angle of the cutting edge of the knife in the upper position. The quarter selection is performed in several passes. If the vertical surface of the quarter turns out to be steps, it is necessary to increase the protrusion of the knives beyond the side surface of the plane.

A wide surface of lumber can be processed in several passes. Processing should begin from the left edge, setting the adjustment to the minimum depth. The next pass should be performed offset to the right by about a third of the length of the knives. In this way you need to go across the entire width of the workpiece. If the quality is unsatisfactory, repeat the surface treatment in a similar way.

What is a plane needed and intended for?

A wood planer performs a fairly extensive range of tasks - not just planing to a flat surface.

Planing a board

The following works are possible:

creating a groove and groove of the desired shape;
quarter selection (specialized cutout along the edge of the part);

Quarter selection and chamfering

creating a chamfer or changing its shape and geometry;
facing and trimming the workpiece;
creation and processing of flat surfaces to the required dimensions and parallelism;

bringing the surface roughness to the required value, eliminating waviness.

With a plane you can process workpieces for roughing, finishing and finishing, and finish finished surfaces. The tool is widely used in woodworking in the following areas:

creation and repair of furniture;
construction (doors, windows, baseboards, trim);
restoration work on art and antiquities.

Wherever wood and lumber are processed, a plane will be useful.

Its modern version, the electric planer, is used both at home and professionally. Processing with its help is faster and requires less muscle power. The device is perfectly mechanized - there are many structural adjustments and the ability to install a vacuum cleaner.

Working correctly with a plane - tips for beginners

plane But before we start... As my regular subscribers already know, I have opened a YuoTube channel, and I will be very glad if you subscribe to it. There are often a lot of interesting things there, and I also try to take into account all your criticism, and the videos get better and more informative over time.

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Always follow the sequence of planing operations. Plane the front side first, then the front edge. Then mark and plan to the width, and finally to the thickness.

Leave precise cutting to length with a saw for a later time.

Plane selection

jointer

A long plane gives a cleaner result. He passes along the high places of the entire board, gradually removing them until the surface becomes smooth and one long chip begins to be removed along the entire length. Smaller planes follow the contours of the surface.

It is better to buy a smoothing plane, or semi-jointer, first. For the first try, set the plane to remove thin chips. At the same time, the planing force is less and the tool is easier to manipulate than when cutting thick chips.

Once you start planing, gradually increase the adjustable chip thickness until the chips are long.

How to plan

1. Start by choosing the best side of the board, this side will become the front side. Place the board on a hard horizontal surface against the workbench stop (secure small parts in a vice). Stand so that your shoulders, plane and hip are in a straight line, with your feet slightly apart so that you have full control of the process.

2. Make smooth movements, applying even pressure. As the plane begins to move over the board, pressure is applied to the front handle.

planing

3. In the middle of the stroke, apply even pressure, and at the end, transfer the pressure to the rear handle. Do not lift the plane away from the board until the blade clears the board.

4. While planing the face, stop and carefully check the flatness in the transverse direction; look along the board to check its straightness.

5. To check the curl of the board, place two pieces of wood on its ends and look at their top edges to see if they are parallel.

6. Place a stiff steel ruler along the grain at various points along the width and check that the surface is flat throughout. Instead of a ruler, you can use the side of a plane.

7. To plane the face edge, rest the board against a bench stop or clamp it in a vice. To hold the plane centered on a narrow edge, place your thumb on the body of the plane near the front handle and guide the plane with your other fingers, gripping the bottom of the plane.

8. Using a square, check that the edge is perpendicular to the front side along the entire length. Always make sure that the stop of the square is firmly pressed against the face. It is desirable that the light comes from above.

9. Once the face and front edge are perfectly straight and perpendicular, mark them with the appropriate “face” and “edge” marks. With two "correct" surfaces, it is now relatively easy to get the board width and thickness you need.

marking thicknesser

10. Using a thicknesser, mark the width from the front edge. Set the thicknesser to the desired width, press its stop against the front edge and draw a line for the width. Turn the board over and also draw a width line on the unplaned side (from the front edge, of course). Plane (or saw and plane) the board to the desired width, checking the result often.

11. To mark the required thickness, press the stop of the thicknesser to the front side and mark the thickness line on the front and far edges. Plane the far side to the desired thickness. Check flatness frequently.

Planing of shields

furniture board

12. Plane panels of joined boards in a diagonal direction, both along the grain and across, with overlapping passes of the plane. Finish by removing thin shavings using parallel passes along the grain.

Advice

Before using a jointer to remove machining marks from the surface of a board, make sure that the corners of the iron blade are rounded, otherwise they may leave parallel lines on the surface.

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Tormek sharpening machine

The Tormek is a low speed grinding machine with a powerful motor and significant torque. The machine allows sharpening work to be carried out continuously over a long period of time. High sharpening frequency is ensured by low speeds (up to 90 rpm) and water cooling of the cutting edge of the tool being sharpened. The design and operating principle of the machine for sharpening knives for planes is quite simple. The tool to be sharpened is clamped into the holder.

The holder with the attached tool is secured to a universal support. Then the sharpening machine is turned on. Sharpening of knives or other tools occurs at low speeds using a sharpening wheel immersed in water. The sharpening process is visible, at any time it is possible to adjust and control the clamping force, the width of the sharpening chamfer and the rotation speed of the grinding wheel. When sharpening a tool, burnout of the tool is completely eliminated. The use of various sharpening stones allows you to sharpen any metal.

You can learn how to operate a sharpening machine in a few sessions. Therefore, sharpening knives with your own hands will not be difficult. For greater confidence in the work and practice of sharpening plane knives, you can watch the video.

Let us remind you that sharpening work always requires attention and compliance with safety regulations.

Safety regulations

To avoid injury when planing, you must follow a number of rules.

Use a tool that is in working order and configured according to the requirements.
The workpiece to be processed is securely fixed in the workbench.
If there are knots, act carefully and release the knife blade as little as possible.
Planing should be carried out longitudinally relative to the workbench.
When planing, hold the handles firmly with both hands, do not be distracted.
It is mandatory to disassemble and assemble the tool over a workbench. This also applies to settings.
It is unacceptable to clear the slot from chips on the extreme side of the cutter, so as not to cut your hand.
Use a tray to store the tool. Place the plane in it with the sole down so that the blade does not protrude outward.
Dropping the plane knife is absolutely unacceptable.
When passing the tool, keep the blade away from you.
It is unacceptable to check the sharpness of a knife with your hand.

Types of knives for electric planers

Knives on an electric planer are consumables. With their help, wood surfaces are processed.

Electric planer knives are classified according to the following criteria:

opportunities for practical reuse;
blade shape;
knife blade sizes;
cost.

When buying an electric planer, in addition to checking its performance and configuration, you should pay attention to the quality of the knives installed on the drum and their sharpening. Blades should be sharp, with a straight edge and no kinks or gouges.

Spare knives should also be checked. The final quality of lumber processing depends on the correct selection of cutting attachments.

Disposable knives

Knives intended for disposable use are made of steel-based hard alloys in the form of plates sharp on both sides. Such cutting parts cannot be sharpened. After the edge being used is completely worn out, the blade is turned over and placed on the drum with the other side. At the same time, the tool continues to work. If the second cutting edge becomes dull, then the blade is simply thrown away.

Disposable knives are intended only for performing work that does not require high precision and quality of workpiece processing. But they are convenient for practical use: during installation they do not need to be precisely adjusted and balanced.

The shapes of disposable products are:

straight;
wavy;
straight, but rounded at the ends.

The first type of product has a straight cutting part. It is convenient to use such consumables to process parts that have a smaller width than the length of the installed blade, and to select quarters. Wavy knives are used when it is necessary to carry out rough processing of lumber. With their help, you can give a wooden surface a different texture, for example, to simulate “aging.” Straight cutting edges, rounded at the edges, are good because they do not leave marks (grooves, steps) on the surface of the wood being processed. This is a suitable option if you need to work with wide wooden pieces.

Reusable cutting attachments

Products that are intended for reusable use differ in both their shape and size from disposable cutting attachments. They are made using high quality steel, which ensures ease and quality of processing of wooden surfaces.

Using reusable knives, you can achieve such a smooth surface of the workpiece that grinding is not required. They are marked HSS (fully High-Speed Steel, which translates as high-speed steel). These blades are considered professional. Their installation is accompanied by high-precision balancing and adjustment. The sharpening must also be of excellent quality. In this case, tool high-speed steel can be sharpened so that it is very sharp.

The working drums of most models of electric planes can be equipped with both disposable and reusable cutting attachments. But there are also devices that can only be equipped with blades that are not intended for sharpening. For this reason, when purchasing an electric planer, it is recommended to give preference to universal power tools.

Classification by size

Knives for electric planers can be standard or non-standard sizes. Products of the first type, called “plates,” have a length of 82 mm, a width of 5.5 mm, and a thickness of 1.2 mm. Such cutting attachments are suitable for most models of electric planes from foreign companies Makita, Skil, Bosch, Black&Dekker.

Straight knives for electric planers Bosch, SKIL

Non-standard cutting attachments with larger blade widths and thicknesses are typical for electric planers from Baikal and Interskol. Due to their parameters, they are stronger and better than standard plates. When they come into contact with metal, such knives do not break. They can be sharpened using sandpaper. The width of the nozzles is about 1 cm. The length can be 82 mm, 102 mm, and for products from the Rebir company it reaches 110 mm.

Straight knives for electric planer Rebir IE-5709

The price of the cutting attachment depends on the manufacturer. Also, this factor often determines the quality of the product. If you purchase knives from well-known companies (for example, Bosch), you can count on their long service life.

Sharpening other cutting tools

In addition to knives, it is often necessary to sharpen tools that are actively used in the household. The most popular are an axe, a saw attachment, and scissors.

Scissors sharpening angle, how to choose

Scissors are different from scissors. There are options for fabrics, and there are those that are used at home for any purpose: cutting paper, tape, oilcloth, thread, and so on. But most often it is household scissors that cause the problem. Tailor's items are usually sent to a special workshop.

So, to restore them to their former sharpness, you need to perform the following manipulations:

open the tool as wide as possible and point the ends upward;
then take a sharpener (block or sharpener);
slide along the blade from the ends to the rings;
repeat slow movements several times;
After the procedure, be sure to sand each blade in the same direction.

Be careful and remember that moving back and forth is strictly prohibited. This can cause serious damage to the properties of the tool.

PHOTO: tytmaster.ru To restore the functionality of the scissors, you can use an electric sandpaper with low abrasiveness

How to choose an ax sharpening angle

In order for the ax to perform its function properly, it is necessary to sharpen it periodically. This operation is often performed mechanically using an emery stone. You will find details of working with this tool in the video:

Watch this video on YouTube

PHOTO: vodakanazer.ru You can try sharpening slightly damaged scissors with foil folded in several layers

Dear readers of our online magazine, if you know which knife sharpening angle is best, or have personal experience in carrying out such a procedure, be sure to write in the comments. Also, do not forget to rate the publication and ask questions.

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