What is a crossmeisel: what is the difference between a metalworking tool and a chisel or groover, what is it used for and its purpose

Bench chisel (Fig. 84, a). It is made of tool carbon steel U7A or U8A and consists of three parts: working, middle and head. The working part 2 of the chisel, like any cutting tool in general, has the shape of a wedge, which is sharpened at a certain angle, which facilitates the process of cutting metal and the formation of chips. The width of the cutting edge of the chisel is usually 20-25 mm. The sharpening angle of 1 chisel is selected depending on the hardness of the metal being processed. The harder the metal, the greater the sharpening angle of the chisel, and vice versa. Typically, the sharpening angle is taken when cutting cast iron, hard steel and hard bronze 70°, medium and soft steel 60°, brass, copper and zinc 45°, for very soft metals: aluminum, electron and others - 35-40°.

The middle part of the 3 chisel has a shape that is convenient for holding while chopping. Most often, the chisel has an ellipse or polyhedral cross-section. The edges of the chisel must be filed down and cleaned.

The head of the 4 chisel is always made to be cone-shaped and somewhat convex (spherical). This shape makes it possible to reduce the area over which the blow is struck, and thereby ensures the centering of the hammer blows. The conical head, in addition, rivets less during operation, and less fungus forms on it.

Rice. 84. Bench chisels:

a - chisel, b - crosspiece, c - groover: 1 - sharpening angle, 2 - working part, 3 - middle part, 4 - head

Chisels are used in lengths of 100, 125, 150, 175 and 200 mm. The working part of the chisel is hardened to a length of 25-30 mm and tempered to a hardness of HRC = 52-57. The impact part (head) of the chisel is hardened to a length of 15-25 mm and tempered to a hardness of HRC 32-40.

When testing a chisel for strength and durability, they need to chop off a steel strip of grade St. that is clamped in a vice. 2 4 mm thick, 50 mm wide. After the test, upon external examination, no dents, chipped areas or noticeable marks of dullness should be found on the working part of the chisel.

The degree of hardening of the chisel can be determined using a personal file, which, when processing the hardened end of the chisel, should remove almost no metal or leave only a slight mark. An edge that is not hardened enough will be amenable to filing.

If even with proper hardening the chisel is unstable, this means that it is made of the wrong type of steel or that it was burnt during hardening.

Kreutzmeisel (Fig. 84, b). Designed for cutting out narrow grooves and keyways, cutting out rivets, etc. However, quite often it is used before using chisels to cut off large surfaces. For example, if you need to chop off the entire upper edge of a wide cast-iron slab, then the processing will be easier and more accurate if you first cut grooves with a cross-section and then remove the remaining part with a chisel.

The Kreutzmeisel is a chisel with a narrower cutting part. The sharpening angles and all other elements are exactly the same as those of a regular chisel.

When testing the crossmeissel, they need to cut out a keyway with a depth of at least 3 mm, a width equal to the width of the cutting edge for a length of 40-50 mm in a plate or rod of the corresponding diameter made of steel St. 6. During an external inspection after testing, no dents, crumbled areas or traces of dullness should be found on the working part of the crossmeissel.

Ditcher (Fig. 84, c). It is used for cutting out profile grooves: semicircular, dihedral, etc. It differs from the crossmeisel only in the shape of the cutting edge.

Source: delta-grup.ru

Crossmeisel and chisels: how do these tools differ?

They have identical basic elements. Both tools are made of steel and consist of a striking part that absorbs the impact force from the sledgehammer/hammer. The work area is sharpened. Both the chisel and the crosspiece are equipped with a middle, which the worker holds onto. It allows you to direct the device in the desired direction. If you look closely at these instruments, the difference becomes obvious. The working part of the crossmeisel is much more flattened than that of the chisel. The exception is the tip, on which there is a chopping edge. This gives the device some resemblance to a spatula. The metal is processed along the sides. A chisel is a rougher tool. The simplest design of this tool is a metal bar, which is tapered and sharpened at one end. Some specific parameters - length, sharpening angle, as well as material of execution - depend on the specific specialization of the tool. This is true for both the chisel and the crossmeisel.

What is called manual cutting of metal?

This plumbing business is not highly complex. It is advisable to pre-clamp the semi-finished product - this will ensure the stability of the part and eliminate vibrations. To do this, you will need a powerful base: a metal table, cabinet or frame with a vice. Ordinary furniture or improvised items will not work.

To create force and transfer it to the cut, you need a tool. The chopping technique is to provide a small indentation to ensure the installation of the tip and perform the main chopping blow.

The basic movement is called the “swing.” It depends on the required impact force and is performed with a movement based around one of the following joints:

wrist - for light blows and precise manipulations;
elbow – the main option, suitable for impact during steady-state operation with small and medium thicknesses;

shoulder - for the most powerful blow when working with large thicknesses or serious scale.

Chopping metal
The impact increases as the weight of the hammer and the length of its handle increase. The heavier the impact tool, the greater the impact on the cutting edge. This way you can get an accurate and fairly clean cut.

With a strong impact, there is immediately a very high probability of the cutting edge coming off and damaging the material. There are frequent cases of instrument damage and even injury. Therefore, haste and inattention are not welcome.

The manual cutting method is optimal for single production and home conditions. It is good for its versatility, but has a number of disadvantages:

not the highest performance;
need for time reserve;
the result in most cases will require modification of the edge (removal of a thin layer, grinding).

How does the crossmeisel tool work?

The design of the tool has features characteristic of locksmith tools. It consists of working, shock and middle parts. The first is the front side of the crossmeisel. There is a cutting edge on it. The front side is located at the opposite end of the tool. It is required to strike with a hammer or other heavy object. The middle part of the tool is intended for girth. It makes working with the device easier. The design of the crossmeisel must meet certain requirements. They are prescribed in GOST 7212-74. The total length of the tool according to this standard varies from 12.5 to 20 cm. The sharpening can have the following angles - 45, 60, 70 degrees. The tools are equipped with a thinned and widened working end. This allows you to cut grooves and create grooves on workpieces. GOST also determines the material from which the device is made. Crosspieces are produced only from tool steel grades U7A or U8A. Devices must have a protective coating. It is made with cadmium, oxide, zinc, and chrome.

Hand chisel

Modern chisel with protector

This is the most common type of chisel, designed to work with various metals and alloys. The tool can be divided into three types according to design and applicability:

Actually, a mechanic's chisel;
Kreuzmeisel;
Ditcher.

A mechanic's chisel is a steel rod, which is conventionally divided into a working part, a middle part (holder) and a striking part (striking part, head, butt plate). The working part has a symmetrical sharpening at one angle or another, the striking part is convex/spherical (with a large radius of the sphere) for better direction of impact, and the holder can have a different section - flat oval, oval, I-beam and hexagonal. A plastic “fungus” can be placed on the body of the tool - a protector to protect the mechanic’s hand from the blow of a hammer. The total length of the chisel can be 100, 125, 160, 200 and 250 mm.

Types of bench chisels

The most important part of the chisel is its working part. It can be straight (design 1) or conical (design 2) in plan (if you look at it flat), and sharpening is carried out at two angles - the main (main) and auxiliary. The cutting edge of the striking part is sharpened to the main angle; the width of the edge can range from 1.1-4.8 mm depending on the size of the chisel. The cutting edge itself can be blunted or even made flat to protect it from intense wear (this ensures the sharpening angle and the correct shape of the cutting edge are maintained longer).

The main sharpening angle depends on the hardness of the metal/alloy being processed; the following range of angles is acceptable:

35° - aluminum and its alloys;
45° - copper and its alloys, zinc, brass;
60° - steel of low and medium hardness;
75° - cast iron, high-hardness steel, hard bronze.

That is, the harder the material being processed, the larger the sharpening angle the tool should have. To increase the strength of the tool, its working part is hardened to a certain length (20-25 mm), which allows the sharpening angle to be returned when worn.

Chisels are made from tool steel of various grades - usually U7, U7A, U8, U8A and U9, as well as 6ХС, 9ХС and others. To work on some alloys and stone, the working part can be made of hard alloys based on tungsten, cobalt, etc. Additionally, the tool may have a zinc or other protective anti-corrosion coating.

A Kreuzmeisel is a type of chisel, but with a narrower cutting part, which is actually a narrow wedge. This tool is designed for making grooves and grooves in metals; it has the same design, sharpening angles and other characteristics as a regular chisel.

A groover is a crosspiece with a shaped cutting part; it can be used to make grooves with different profiles. The most common groovers are for making grooves of semicircular, dihedral, rectangular and other sections.

Bench chisels of various types are manufactured in accordance with GOST 7211-86, GOST 7212-74 and some others.

Technology of working with impact-cutting tools

Kreutzmeisel is intended for carrying out delicate work, for example, when creating shaped grooves and grooves on various parts. Working with the device involves using a heavy impact device. Typically a machinist's hammer or sledgehammer is used. Its weight should vary from 500 g to 1 kilogram. The workpiece to be worked with is fixed in the required position using a vice. This can be done in any other way. The main thing is to ensure that the part is securely fastened. The tool is held with the left hand at an acute angle relative to the workpiece. With the right hand, strikes with a hammer on the back end of the crossmeisel. They must be precise and short. Do not hold the tool too tightly in your hand. If the master is left-handed, then use the opposite position of the hands - a hammer in the right, a tool in the left.

Safety precautions

The Kreutzmeisel, like any other metalworking tool, requires certain nuances to be observed during operation:

Any manipulation must be carried out wearing protective glasses. They will protect your eyes from metal shavings.
The protective wall is used when processing a fragile workpiece. It is installed on the side of the hand that holds the crossmeisel.
The tool is checked for cracks and burrs on the tip. The hammer or sledgehammer must have a clean head.
The workpiece must be securely fixed by the clamping device and not move during operation.
You only need to hit the back end. Do not swing a hammer/sledgehammer. It is necessary to hit short and without swing.
Experienced craftsmen recommend working with a special protective “fungus” placed on the tool. This will reduce the risk of injury during work.

A rubber washer is not always included with the tool. You can do it yourself. A circle (diameter approximately 7 cm) is cut out of rubber (about 1 cm thick). A pair of 1 cm holes are made in the middle of the pancake, cutting a bridge between them. This washer covers the brush and provides visibility for work.

Source: superarch.ru

What is a cruiser?

kreutsmeisel - kreutsmeisel ... Spelling dictionary-reference book

crossmeisel - chisel, chisel Dictionary of Russian synonyms. crossmeisel noun, number of synonyms: 2 • chisel (16) • chisel... Dictionary of synonyms

KREUTZMEISEL - (German: Kreuzmei?el) a tool for cutting out narrow grooves, keyways, etc. ... Big Encyclopedic Dictionary

KREUTZMEISSEL - with a narrow blade (see) for cutting narrow grooves, keyways or cutting seams, burrs, etc. in hard materials ... Big Polytechnic Encyclopedia

KREUTZMEISSEL - (from the German Kreuz meiβel) a narrow chisel, a foundry tool for cutting and cleaning castings made of ferrous and non-ferrous alloys. The crossmeisel is secured in a pneumatic hammer. The sharpening angle α (Fig. K 28) depends on the hardness of the workpiece... ... Metallurgical Dictionary

KREUTZMEISSEL - (from German Kreuzmeissel) a narrow chisel (see figure) for metalworking of hard materials (chopping, cutting out narrow grooves, etc.). Kreutzmeisel ... Big Encyclopedic Polytechnic Dictionary

Kreuzmeissel - (German: Kreuzmeißel), a tool for cutting out narrow grooves, keyways, etc. * * * KREUZMEIßEL KREUZMEIßEL (German: Kreuzmeibel), a tool for cutting out narrow grooves, keyways, etc. ... Encyclopedic Dictionary

kreuzmeibel - (German: kreuzmeibel) a chisel with a narrow blade, used for cutting grooves in metal. New dictionary of foreign words. by EdwART, 2009. kreuzmeissel (re, me, se), I, m. (German Kreuzmeißel ... Dictionary of foreign words of the Russian language

Kreuzmeissel - (German: Kreuzmeiβel) narrow chisel for metalworking of hard materials (cutting, cutting out narrow grooves, etc.) ... Great Soviet Encyclopedia

Kreutzmeisel - see Chisel (additional) ... Encyclopedic Dictionary F.A. Brockhaus and I.A. Ephron

Source: dic.academic.ru

Locksmith tools: list

It is quite difficult to list all the tools; we can name only the most common groups:

drums;
cutting and removing the surface layer;

for working with holes, rods and threads;
for manipulating the workpiece (pliers, pliers);
marking and control and measuring;
means of fastening and holding the part (vise, clamps).

Fitting and assembly tools

For assembly and disassembly, standard keys and similar items are most often needed. Together with ratchets, screwdrivers, sockets and extensions, they are combined into sets.

Fitting and assembly tools

Successful packaging and low weight make portability an important characteristic for the tool.

Metalworking tool for making grooves in metal

In addition to bending, bench tools are also designed to create technological recesses. They are used for assembly operations (combining parts) or surface treatment.

Metalworking tool for making grooves in metal

Local removal of the metal layer is carried out with a tool such as a file. Together with a coarser rasp and a thin file, they form a group of tools for finishing surfaces. When it comes to metal, files and needle files serve as assistants everywhere.

A separate operation in terms of its significance and need is the application of a brand. It requires a special product of high hardness and small size. Unlike other items, a set of stamps has a number and is subject to registration.

Branding is performed to display the required information on a product. This requires letters and numbers, as well as unique signs and symbols.

Percussion tool

A set of plumbing installation tools must include the main impact tools. They are needed for bending metal, forming or transforming a shape, and adjusting during assembly. They come in a simple design and with protective elements.

Percussion tool

The following products should be noted as prominent representatives of this group:

metalworker's and carpenter's hammer, sledgehammer - for direct mechanical impact on a limited area to transform the shape;

chisel (and its analogues with a modified shape of the working tip, which usually make up a set) - for cutting down metal;
crossmeisel - for producing grooves (and not only in metal);

These include other percussion locksmith tools.

Tools for bench marking

The operation of applying dimensions is necessary from the point of view of the accuracy of subsequent shaping. It is an important component of any technological process - production or repair. Marking tools are used everywhere.

Tools for bench marking

Their function is to cause microscopic mechanical damage to the surface of the workpiece. The scratch as a small indentation greatly reduces the likelihood of errors when cutting or bending. As a result, rework costs are reduced or eliminated entirely.

The standard list of marking tools is as follows:

punch (or “core”) – the basis of a marking tool, necessarily included in a metalwork tool;
scriber - a radically simplified version of the center punch;
compasses, beards - for more complex marking operations.

Bench tool for cutting threads on a rod

In metalworking, one of the main groups of workpieces is a body of revolution. Due to the availability of material and convenient sizes, metal rods are widely used. A tool for cutting metal threads consists of 2 main products:

die - to create a thread on the outer surface of the rod;
tap - for cutting on the inner surface of a pipe blank or in a hole.

They are also rotating bodies made from tool steel. To hold them and apply the required force, the kits are supplemented with holders. Drivers and die holders - all threaded surfaces to be cut would be impossible without them. Used as handles and levers, they greatly simplify working with hard metal surfaces.

Bench tool for cutting threads on a rod

All sizes used differ in nominal diameter, thread type and pitch. They also have regular and increased accuracy.

Locksmith tool for screwing

Screwing - bringing a threaded connection to an assembled state. For this task, metalworking tools are used that work with the contact parts of hardware. The movement of the screw or nut is carried out along the thread - rotational, with gradual longitudinal movement.

Locksmith tool for screwing

Such tools are:

wrench - to apply rotational force by applying force to the lever;
a torque wrench is a “relative” of a conventional one, enhanced by a mechanism for determining the amount of force;

a screwdriver is the main means of installing or removing small hardware.

Wrenches come in different designs: open-end, socket, adjustable, hinged, ratchet. There are options with long and curved handles - for working in hard-to-reach places. Their main characteristic, in addition to design, is the nominal working size, measured in millimeters.

Dynamometric models are needed for critical components - they provide tightening to the required torque value.

The criterion for screwdrivers is the shape of the hardware head. They can have a cross or straight slot - and more complex shapes, like an asterisk or hexagon, are already called keys. These are needed for assembling furniture, bicycles and other equipment, in industry, and when creating electrical and electronic products.

High precision metalworking instruments

Control and measuring tools are a necessary part of a mechanic’s equipment, without which creating accurate dimensions is not possible. They come in standard and high-precision types, allowing for control over the range of linear and angular dimensions, flatness and shape.

High precision metalworking instruments

Their use begins at the marking stage - to apply dimensions or outlines. For manufacturing, this operation guarantees compliance with the dimensional parameters of the result.

During processing, other parameters are also monitored - compliance with the straightness of the surface and its quality, angular dependencies, and a number of others. All measuring instruments can be summarized in the following list:

ruler (tape measure), meter - for working with linear dimensions;
vernier calipers and its “colleagues” caliper depth gauge and caliper gauge - for accurate measurements of linear and diametrical dimensions;
bore gauge and micrometer - for precision measurements of internal and external diameters;
squares and templates - for working with angular relationships;

pattern or template - to check the shape.

The measuring equipment is supplemented with templates for surface roughness and flatness. During operation, they are required to control the improvement of processing quality.

What materials are used to make locksmith tools?

Plumbing tools cause irreversible damage to metal (and other materials). To do this, they must have radically improved mechanical and physical characteristics, otherwise they themselves will undergo shape changes.

Tool steel tools

It should be borne in mind that such equipment is designed only for manual operations - therefore, exposure to high heat can be harmful. Specialized tools and those designed for use in machines or furnaces are not afraid of high temperatures.

The main construction material for metalworking tools is tool steel. It is used for the manufacture of cutting and contact parts of equipment. Its hardness level is more than 58-59 units on the Rockwell scale (HRC). For comparison: the hardness of cast iron is up to 22 HRC.

Durable and heat-resistant metalwork tools (hacksaw blade, pliers) require a material such as alloy steel. Chromium, vanadium, molybdenum, nickel and other metals are added to a regular iron-carbon alloy. As a result, the alloy gains significant strength and heat resistance characteristics.

High-speed and high-alloy alloys are intended for cutting tools. They require complex combinations of alloying additives of a certain purity.

To complete the chemical composition, heat treatment is used. Tempering and hardening in various combinations make the contact surfaces extremely resistant to abrasion and heat.

Locksmith's tools do not include...

The mechanic's equipment will not include tools for specialized processing of materials and mechanisms. Thus, performing maintenance of ventilation or sewer systems will require separate products with a narrow specialization. The plumbing cable is not included in the list of plumbing equipment.

All of the above tools can be used in some form in other industries. Thus, there are models of hammers with a nail puller - an unnecessary attribute for a machine-building enterprise.

Carrying out operations not related to metal products is the main criterion. A plane or wood saw are not standard components of a plumbing park.

Also, locksmiths do not include:

products for carrying raw materials and semi-finished products (from buckets and wheelbarrows to pulley blocks and cranes);
means for excavation work (shovel, pick, spade, pitchfork, etc.);
specialized devices for repair work (for example, for wheel trim);
tools for masonry and finishing work;
protective equipment and clothing.

How to distinguish a crossmeisel from a chisel

The basic elements of the chisel and the crosspiece are completely the same. Both steel tools have a striking part that receives force from a hammer or sledgehammer, a working sharpened area and a middle by which the worker holds and guides the device.

Upon careful examination of both tools, the main difference between a crossmeisel and a chisel immediately becomes clear. Its working part is significantly flattened, with the exception of the tip, where the chopping edge is located.

Externally, the device resembles a spatula. Metal processing is carried out along its sides. A chisel is a rougher tool; in its simplest form, it looks like a metal bar, tapered and sharpened at one end. Parameters such as length, sharpening angle, and material directly depend on the narrower specialization of the chisel and crosspiece and can vary significantly.

What are the methods for cutting metal?

Methods of achieving a goal can be classified according to a number of characteristics.

Goal:

edge or surface cleaning;
dividing the workpiece into parts of a simple shape (rectangles, triangles) or a little more complex (polyhedrons, rounded silhouettes);

cutting down a complex configuration, which will require changing the cutting direction and a certain amount of time;
removing a volume of metal to a specified depth and width.

Locksmith tools:

manual type: hammers, chisels and other tools;
mechanized type: a group of machines and structures with the help of which separation along the line is carried out with less labor and time.

Vector of movement of the working tool (affects the required force and the overall organization of work):

vertical cutting (the cutting edge acts from above);
horizontal (cutting is performed at an angle to the horizontal, the workpiece is fixed vertically).

Need for fixation:

not required - just adjust by hand;

minimal pressure - a heavy object will be required;
reliable fixation - in a vice, clamps or clamps;
when working on equipment - using integrated press beds.

The quality of the result directly depends on the means used. The type and condition of the tool (machine), the mechanical properties of the material and its thickness, the speed of work and the experience of the person - these factors are of great importance.

Similar types of tools

The tools that are often united under the general name “chisel” include several devices of different design and purpose. In addition to the chisel itself and the crosspiece already mentioned in the previous paragraph of the article, this includes a center punch and a boletus.

Putting them together, and taking into account the specializations of the tools, we can get the following specification:

Bench chisel. Basic hand-chopping tool for processing metal products. Its length ranges from 10 to 20 cm, width – from 5 to 52 mm. The sharpening angle of the working edge varies from 35 to 75º, the determining factor being the softness of the metal the tool is designed to work with. The dependence is as follows: the less hard the material to be processed, the more acute the angle at the working end of the chisel will be. All chisels can be made from a single piece of steel or with inclusions of carbide components, for processing harder metals and extending service life. The steel, especially in the working area of the chisel, is additionally hardened.
Blacksmith chisel. This type has a long wooden handle. As you can guess from the name, it is used when processing hot parts and refers to overhead forging tools. This one looks like a hammer. There are different types of blades; tools with shaped and rounded edges are often found. The length is longer than that of a regular locksmith, sometimes up to 50 cm. When working, it is important that the device is in good working order; the wooden handle should not be wedged.
The pick-chisel is designed to work with the hardest metals and stone materials. They are equipped with jackhammers and pneumatic concrete breakers. The working end can be either conical or tetrahedral. The opposite side is optimized for use with power tools.
The chisel has a curved working end. It is used when it is necessary to carve a shaped groove in sheet metal. A nibbler chisel is often referred to as a cutting chisel.
Undercuts are used to speed up cutting. Instead of the striking end, the hooks have a groove with which they are fixed to the anvil. During the chopping process, pressure on the part occurs from two sides, from above from the chisel side and from below from the undercutting side.
A punch (punch) is used to punch holes in steel sheets. The shape of the working part is cylindrical.
A center punch is needed to make center marks for subsequent drilling of holes and other markings on parts. It is a steel rod with a pointed end. In addition to simple standard punches, self-propelled punches with a spring mechanism are used in production, allowing marking to be made with one hand without the use of a hammer.
Kreuzmeisel. With its help, grooves are cut into the metal, grooves and recesses are cut. Based on the shape of the working end, there are rectangular, round and special cross-cutters. All types of this tool have a narrowed working part to perform their functions. Kreuzmeisel metalwork is made from tool steels U7A and U8A with subsequent hardening.

§ 51. TOOLS FOR CUTTING. Cold chisel. Kreuzmeisel. Ditcher.

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Bench chisel (Fig. 84, a). It is made of tool carbon steel U7A or U8A and consists of three parts: working, middle and head. The working part 2 of the chisel, like any cutting tool in general, has the shape of a wedge, which is sharpened at a certain angle, which facilitates the process of cutting metal and the formation of chips. The width of the cutting edge of the chisel is usually 20-25 mm. The sharpening angle of 1 chisel is selected depending on the hardness of the metal being processed. The harder the metal, the greater the sharpening angle of the chisel, and vice versa. Typically, the sharpening angle is taken when cutting cast iron, hard steel and hard bronze 70°, medium and soft steel 60°, brass, copper and zinc 45°, for very soft metals: aluminum, electron and others - 35-40°.

Rice. 84. Bench chisels:

a - chisel, b - crosspiece, c - groover: 1 - sharpening angle, 2 - working part, 3 - middle part, 4 - head

If even with proper hardening the chisel is unstable, this means that it is made of the wrong type of steel or that it was burnt during hardening.

Kreutzmeisel (Fig. 84, b). Designed for cutting out narrow grooves and keyways, cutting out rivets, etc. However, quite often it is used before using chisels to cut off large surfaces. For example, if you need to chop off the entire upper edge of a wide cast-iron slab, the processing will be easier and more accurate if you first cut grooves with a cross-cutting tool and then remove the remaining part with a chisel.

The Kreutzmeisel is a chisel with a narrower cutting part. The sharpening angles and all other elements are exactly the same as those of a regular chisel.

Ditcher (Fig. 84, c). It is used for cutting out profile grooves: semicircular, dihedral, etc. It differs from the crossmeisel only in the shape of the cutting edge.

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Crossmeissel device

So, it’s time to summarize the information on the design of the crossmeisel. Like other types of chisels, crosspieces consist of three main parts: working, impact and middle. The working part is considered to be the front part of the tool, where, in fact, the cutting edge is located. The opposite end of the crosspiece has a frontal surface for striking with a hammer or other similar tool. The middle part is intended for the master's grip.

The design of metalwork crossbars is described in detail in GOST 7212-74. According to this document, the total length of the device is from 125 to 200 mm. The sharpening angles are indicated as follows: 45º, 60º, 70º. Crosspieces have a wider and thinner working end, which makes it possible to cut grooves and create grooves. They must be made from tool steels U7A and U8A (GOST 1435) and 8ХФ (GOST 5950). Cross-sections must have a protective coating, which can be chrome, zinc, cadmium and oxide.

General operating technology

As already mentioned, crossmeisel is used for operations that require more delicate work, such as creating grooves or shaped grooves on the surface of a part. A percussion instrument is required to operate the crossmeissel. The best option is a mechanic's hammer or sledgehammer weighing from 0.5 to 1 kg. The workpiece must be fixed in the desired position using a vice or, if this is not possible, in another way. The chisel is held with the left hand at an angle of 45 to the workpiece being processed. At this time, with the right hand, they hit its back end with a hammer. Strikes must be short and precise.

At the same time, there is no need to squeeze the crossmeisel in your hand too tightly. For left-handers, opposite hand roles are preferred.

Relatives of the Kreutzmeisel

The group of related instruments, united by the name “chisel,” is represented by four representatives that are different in purpose, but similar in structure. It includes the chisel itself, as well as the crosspiece, center punch and bit.

The chisel is intended for cutting sheet and strip workpieces with a thickness of 0.5 to 10 mm, as well as cutting non-cylindrical holes. It is convenient to use it to cut steel wire.

The Kreutzmeisel has a narrower cutting edge, which allows it to be used for cutting narrow grooves in parts, for example, keyways on shafts, axles and other cylindrical parts. In addition, it is used for cutting off rivet heads or pre-processing parts when cutting large surfaces. Another instrument called a groover is often confused with the crossmeissel. It features a slightly curved working part and has various cutting edge options.

The beard is distinguished by the round shape of the working part, which determines its use for punching cylindrical holes in flat metal workpieces, as well as in soft plastics, leather, rubber, etc.

Safety precautions

Following these simple recommendations will help make working with a cross-section machine safer:

You should start working with safety glasses. This will protect your eyes from metal fragments getting into them.
If the workpiece is fragile, it will require installing a protective mesh to your left, i.e. from the side of the hand holding the crossmeisel.
Before starting work, you should check the tool. The tip of the chisel should not have burrs or cracks. The hammer head must also be clean.
The workpiece must be securely fixed in the clamping device before starting work.
During the process, strictly follow the technology of working with a chisel. The hammer blows should be exactly on the back end of the tool. You need to hit short, without swinging.
Since injuries are almost inevitable during such work, it is recommended to use a special protective “fungus” that is placed on the crosspiece. It is designed in such a way as to protect the hand and at the same time not block the operator’s view.

If the crosspiece was not supplied with a protective rubber washer from the manufacturer, you can make it yourself. A circle with a diameter of approximately 70 mm is cut out of a sheet of rubber approximately 1 cm thick. Two 10 mm holes are drilled in the center of the rubber pancake, and the jumper between them is cut. After this, the protection is ready for use. The washer will cover the brush and will not obstruct the view of the tool.

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Source: stankiexpert.ru

How to distinguish a crossmeisel from a chisel?

If you look at the types of chisels, it is difficult to immediately find the differences, but they exist! And now we will try to outline this. In general, when working with this tool, a hammer, sledgehammer, jackhammer or chipper, concrete breaker and perforator are used. With these tools you need to hit the chisel so that its cutting edge cuts or splits parts or structures. If the tool is narrow and small in size, and the cutting edge is narrowed, then this is a representative of the cross-section. It is used if you need to cut grooves or grooves in metals.

These tools do not differ in their basic design elements and consist of a sharpening angle, a working and middle part, and a head. In appearance, the chisel resembles an oblong rod, and in cross-section it has not only a rectangular or round, but also an oval or multifaceted shape. This tool is sharpened on one side (this is the working part), on the other it is made specifically for blows with a sledgehammer or hammers. For safety, a special “fungus” is put on the main part of the chisel, that is, a hollow handle with sides made of soft rubber or other material. The working part of the tool has a sharpening with main and auxiliary cutting angles.

To increase durability, the cutting edge is slightly blunted, and the working part and shank itself are thermally improved. More often, chisels are made from strong carbon steel of the U7, U8, U9, U7A, 6ХС, 9ХС grades, or from structural steels, which are equipped with carbide plates for greater strength. The chisel has such a shape that it can be used as a wrench if there is a notch on the edges of the nut. Then you can set the tool at an angle to the edges of the nuts and lightly hit it with a hammer, the nut will unscrew or tighten. If you have a little skill in working with the tool, then you can use this method of tightening nuts even with “licked” edges.

Questions about choosing and using a chisel

Chisels of various types

The selection of a chisel should be carried out in accordance with the operations performed with its help and the type of material being processed. The most versatile are metalworking chisels with different sharpening angles of the cutting edge - with their help you can perform a wide range of operations with almost any metal. Moreover, the thicker the metal, the longer and more massive the chisel should be. If, in addition to the usual cutting, it is necessary to make grooves or shaped grooves in metal products, then it is additionally necessary to have a cross-section and a groover.

A good solution would be a chisel with a plastic protector - such a tool is suitable both for training young mechanics and for direct work, it prevents injuries and generally improves work safety.

When selecting chisels for pneumatic and electric tools, you should take into account the type of chuck and the compatibility of chucks of different standards - if you choose the wrong one, the chisel will simply be impossible to install.

The use of a chisel must comply with established plumbing rules and safety requirements. With the correct selection and use of the tool, the desired result will be achieved with minimal time and effort.

Types of chisels - subtle differences

The Kreutzmeisel is used to cut out grooves, which is why it is called a groover, and is a fairly popular type of chisel, but far from the only one. Let's see what else can help us in plumbing work. There are several more varieties of chisels, in addition to the basic metalworker's (the rough one mentioned above) and the cross-cutting chisel (groover), for example, a peak chisel, a blacksmith's chisel, a nibbler and a punch. Perhaps we’ll say a few words about each.

Let's start with the plumbing option, the most primitive and crude. In appearance, this type resembles a metal block, where the angle of the cutting part is sharpened. Manufacturers of metal chisels additionally harden and temper the steel, especially at the tip. Typically, the length of such an instrument is from 10 to 20 cm with a width from 5 to 52 mm. The corners on the blades are sharpened depending on the type and thickness of the metal. The angle can be obtuse if the chisel is intended for cutting soft metal, and vice versa, for hard metals the angle should be sharper. In metalworking chisels, the middle part is made the most convenient shape for holding with your hands while cutting. Such a tool is distinguished by its cross-section; it can be either elliptical or multifaceted. It is important that the edges of the chisels are filed and cleaned. The quality of work and productivity will depend on this.
The groover is not actually a crossmeisel, although they are often identified. They are painfully similar, and their task is the same - creating grooves, but it is the groover who can also make them shaped, for example, semicircular, his tip can have different shapes.
A blacksmith's chisel is mounted on a long wooden handle. In appearance it resembles a hammer. This design helps to work with hot metals and is well suited for very cold cutting. Often, forging chisels are not only shaped, but also with rounded cutting edges. This type is referred to as overhead forging tools. They differ from metalwork chisels in that the cutting parts are called a knife, and they are sharper. The standard length of such a tool is from 30 to 50 mm. If you need to cut cold metals, you can use chisels with a length of 16 to 19 cm, and for hot metals, a suitable length will be from 18 to 24 cm. It is important that the wooden handle is not wedged, this can affect not only the quality of the work, but also on safety.
The chisel pick helps break down the heaviest metals. Its purpose is to equip pneumatic concrete breakers, as well as chippers and jackhammers. The working part is pointed, which allows you to make deep cuts.
The nibbling chisel and the undercutting chisel are distinguished by a curved working part. They are used when you need to cut out shaped lines in sheet metal. Often both tools are called sweepers, but this is incorrect. Undercuts resemble upside-down chisels, and their purpose is to speed up the cutting of metal. They are also distinguished by tetrahedral tails, which are inserted into the corresponding grooves on the anvils. Punchers have a cone-shaped working part and are used when it is necessary to punch holes in sheet metal.

Recently, new models of chisels have been released. They are more advanced and easy to use. These are chisels with protectors, caulks and weighted chisels. Options with a tread are among the safest. Thanks to the protection, a secure grip is ensured. The protector also protects your hands from being hit by hammers. Caulking chisels have a very wide working part, so any surface can be processed quickly and efficiently. Such models are widely used when it is necessary to caulk cracks in log houses or remove old ceramic tiles from the walls. Weighted chisels are used when it is necessary to destroy concrete or brick structures. Such instruments are heavy and massive.

Sharpening chisels, angle

Sharpening is performed on a special sharpening machine. The chisel is placed on the tool rest and, pressing slightly, slowly moved along the entire width of the rotating abrasive wheel, alternately sharpening one or the other edge. In this case, the blade should be often immersed in cold water to prevent overheating of the metal, during which it loses the necessary hardness.

After sharpening is completed on the grinding wheel, the burrs are removed from the chisel, and then the cutting edge is threaded on the abrasive wheel.

Hot forging chisel with a sharpening angle of 70-80 degrees

The sharpening angle of the chisel knife for hot cutting is no more than 50 degrees, and for cold cutting - at least 60 degrees.

Finally, the correct sharpening angles of the blade are checked with a special template. As such a template, a metal block is used, in which grooves are cut. The angles in these grooves have the required values, therefore, by inserting a sharpened chisel blade into this groove, you can visually determine the correct sharpening.

Making metal cutting safe

Before working with a crosspiece or chisel, mark the place on the metal that needs to be cut. Holding the tool vertically, set it to the mark. Even if the element being worked on is small in size, it is better to use a vice so that it does not move from the workplace under impact. Next, supporting the chisel with the cutting part, you need to strike accurately with a plumber's hammer. It is important that the blows are short and accurate, and most importantly - clearly on the back. The hand should not tightly grip the chisel while working; you only need to lightly support the tool. Usually the job doesn't finish the first time. You need to perform several of these techniques.

To protect yourself from metal fragments or the hammer or chisel slipping off the workpiece, you should follow a few simple rules. The hammer handle must have a good grip, the worker himself should wear safety glasses, and if the workpiece is fragile, a protective mesh will also be required. If you don’t have enough experience, it’s better to protect your hands by putting a special shield on them. The tool itself, or rather its tip, should not have cracks or burrs; in fact, the hammer head should be just as clean. For the rest, we would only advise you not to rush and make your strikes clearly and briefly.

Source: remoskop.ru

How to make a chisel with your own hands

To make a chisel with your own hands, you will need a spring made of durable, hardened metal, as well as a whole set of various tools and accessories:

forge;
vermiculite;
sledgehammer;
anvil;
grinding machine;
file;
forceps;
angle grinder;
oil.

Don't forget about protective equipment.

After putting on your glasses and an apron, you can get to work.

The technology for making the tool is quite simple, so you can handle it without any problems, even if you have never done it before.

We cut off one coil of the spring, heat it up and straighten it.
We give the working part the desired shape (for example, tetrahedral). We heat the workpiece and tap it, forming a groove.
We place a hot piece of metal in vermiculite to facilitate processing.
We process the workpiece using a file and a grinding machine.
We heat the future instrument to a temperature of 760 degrees, then place it in a container with oil. Then we heat it again to a temperature of 200 degrees, let it cool naturally. This hardening will make the metal strong and hard.
We polish it and give it an aesthetic appearance.

That's all, the tool is ready.

All that remains is to try it at work.

It is advisable to start making a chisel with your own hands if you have all the necessary equipment at hand.

If there are none, it’s easier to buy a tool.