How to properly install a vice on a workbench?

2021

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Greetings to readers of the blog “Our Stylish Home”! In order to understand what a vice is used for, it is worth considering the design of a vice for metalwork. They are used for strong and immovable fixation of parts. Without a vice, even a good master will be helpless. This tool has become indispensable both in the home workshop and in production. Over the many years of existence, the vice has undergone many changes, but the basic principle has remained unchanged - reliable fastening between sliding planes.

The screw may have different thread pitches. Bench bench vices manufactured in accordance with GOST 4045-75 have the following basic structural elements:

a fixed sponge (usually equipped with an anvil) and a movable one.
base.
clamping screw
replaceable cheeks (plates) with notches.
rotary handle.

Construction of a bench vice In addition to them, the design may include other elements that will change the modification and specialization of the device.

The main parameter that a bench vice has is the maximum possible distance between the jaws. It determines the largest size of the workpiece fixed in the device.

All parts of the clamping device are steel. Cast iron, due to its fragility, is used much less frequently. Especially when a bench vise is used as an anvil. And steel parts are able to withstand shock loads without destruction.

Do-it-yourself workbench for the garage: how to make it correctly

A homemade workbench for the garage is a workbench for performing numerous plumbing operations, electromechanical and installation work. For convenient storage of tools and small parts, the design has drawers and shelves.

The article suggests getting acquainted with the types of workbenches and how to build a workbench for a garage.

Making a wooden workbench

If you lack experience, it is better to choose a model of a wooden workbench for your garage to make with your own hands. Making a structure from timber using a drill and a jigsaw is much easier than welding a steel corner.

To assemble a wooden workbench for the garage you will need:

Wooden beam. Pine and oak blanks are particularly durable. Depending on the design of the workbench, a length of 15 m should be sufficient. The cross section depends on the planned loads.
Edged board for workbench table top. Select specimens 2-3 cm thick, without surface defects and knots.
An additional shelf is often placed between the desktop cabinets in the garage. Sheet plywood with a thickness of 6-8 mm is suitable. It is better to take 3 sheets of 0.6x2 m.
Self-tapping screws for woodworking and steel angles for assembling individual workbench elements.

To obtain straight lines of workpieces after cutting, use a stationary circular saw; in extreme cases, turn to a manual analogue. The edges of the boards or timber are cut with a jigsaw.

First you need to make a frame for a desktop in the garage, taking into account the dimensions included in the drawing. The timber is cut into pieces, it should look like this:

4 leg stands;
4 beams that will be located horizontally;
5 cross braces.

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If the length of the workbench in the garage is no more than 2 m, a beam with 7 cm edges is suitable for work. As a result of cutting the vertical posts, you should get 2 blanks of 0.9 m each and 2 parts of 1.5 m each, which will be located near the wall of the garage. The difference of 0.6 m is intended for further fixation to the plywood screen supports for storing tools.

Horizontal beams connect the legs of a workbench in a garage. For fastening the support posts in the lower part, the length is 1.5 m. The tabletop is fixed with a beam 2.0 m long (according to the size of the workbench indicated in the drawing). Spacers 0.6 m long are prepared from the remaining timber. All parts are connected with steel angles and self-tapping screws.

When the frame of the desktop for the garage is ready, we begin to design the tabletop. For a carpentry-type workbench, it is assembled from boards and plywood sheets. The aligned and adjusted canvas is coated with wood glue, the two workpieces are clamped with clamps and held until the glue is completely dry and the canvas gains strength. Finally, the tabletop is fixed along the contour with self-tapping screws.

The wooden canvas is connected to the workbench frame with self-tapping screws, the surface is sanded using an electric drill equipped with an emery attachment. At the final stage, the screen is mounted and the structure is varnished. High humidity in a garage is a common occurrence; a protective film of varnish will prevent deformation of the wooden structure.

What types of workbenches are there?

Three types of workbenches are usually installed in the garage:

For metal processing or metalworking.
For woodworking or carpentry.
Universal - for all types of work in the garage.

The products differ in the material used to make the countertops. For plumbing work, it is made of metal, otherwise machine oil spilled on wooden surfaces will leave oil marks.

In addition, the processing of metal products requires great effort and the use of fairly sharp tools, which can harm the wood.

Do-it-yourself carpentry workbenches for the garage are used for processing wooden parts; they can be made of less strength, which means their price will be lower. The cover for such models can be made of wood or covered with linoleum.

The best option for a car enthusiast is a do-it-yourself universal workbench for the garage. The advantage of such products is the different configuration of shelves and drawers, for storing all kinds of tools, for the work of a mechanic or carpenter.

Excellent appearance guarantees reliable surface coating with powder material, as shown in the photo, for a long time.

Video description

Bench vice.
Let's sort it out. Let's take a look. Let's compare. The device uses two steel jaws and a locking mechanism, with the help of which the distance between them is changed or fixed. Typically, one of the two parts is fixedly attached to the body, and the other moves so that the fastening is secure. The design of a vice for plumbing work includes the following components:

The bed is a massive fixed support. It gives stability to the vice. In most cases, it is made of cast iron, but there are structures made of steel or duralumin.
Jaws, one of which is fixedly fixed, and the other moves along the screw fastening. They are most often made of cast iron, but there are also those where high-strength plastic was used for manufacturing. The part that comes into contact with the part has a corrugated surface. This is necessary in order to increase grip strength.
The lead screw passes through the jaws of the vice. The moving part moves along it. The movement is controlled using a handle located on the outside of the tool. This screw is made of high strength steel.

To make room for the part, the screw is rotated counterclockwise. To press it, twist it until it stops, turning it in the other direction. The moving part is located on the opposite side of the screw. In order to make the tool more functional, a small anvil is placed on it.

One type of machine vice Source vash.market

The design of most tools is described here, but there are also other options. In some cases, hydraulics may be used instead of a screw for clamping. In various models, two pairs of cheeks are used for more reliable fixation. There are tools where the movable jaw can be placed on the other side of the fixed one. Such models are called reversible.

When used, such a vice is held in the hands Source vash.market

How to make a metal workbench

Before you build a workbench in the garage, you need to purchase the following tool:

A grinder with a wheel and a grinding disc.
Apparatus for welding with electrodes.
Working clothes and devices for protection against welding.
Building level.
Roulette.
Screwdriver.
Electric jigsaw for cutting plywood.
Electric drill.

Materials for work:

Equilateral profile corners 50x4, 6.4 meters long and 40x4, 6.75 meters long.
Rectangular pipe 40x60, with a wall thickness of 2 millimeters, 24 meters long.
Steel strip 40x4, 8 meters long.
Steel sheet, two millimeters thick, dimensions 2.2x0.75 meters for the manufacture of table tops.
Tabletop boards, 50 millimeters thick.
Plywood sheets for drawers and table walls, 15 millimeters thick.
Guides for table drawers.
Screws.
Self-tapping screws for metal.
Anchor.
Paint for metal and wood.

Tip: A workbench from such materials will be made in the following dimensions: table - length 220 centimeters, width -75 centimeters. It can accommodate two vices at the ends of the table, sandpaper and other tools.

The procedure for making a workbench with your own hands:

The existing material is cut out.

To make the frame, a profile pipe is taken, for the stiffeners - a corner, from which the frame of the workbench is formed and the edging of the table top is made.

The guides for the side panels will be made from the steel strip. Brackets for fixing boxes and plywood are also made from it. Plywood is used for the boxes.

Assembling and welding the frame for the workbench:

the tabletop frame is welded from two pipes 2.2 meters long and two pipes 0.75 meters long;
four side legs 0.9 meters long are welded along the edges of the workbench;
jumpers are installed between them for structural rigidity;
the structure for the drawers is assembled from pipes and welded to the tabletop;
their frames are reinforced with stiffening ribs.

Assembling the frame for the table top. To do this, take two corners of 2.2 meters and two of 0.75 meters and weld them with the shelves up. After 40 centimeters, stiffening ribs for the structure are welded;
The frame for the device is laid on the pipes of the workbench frame and welded.
The panel sheathing for the tool is assembled from one corner 2.2 meters long and four 0.95 meters long. Two of them are fixed on the sides and two in the middle of the structure. The tool mounting panel is welded to the table top.
In order for the do-it-yourself workbench to have good stability, strips of metal are welded into the garage, which will serve as stiffeners. The video shows how to install them well.
Boxes are made for homemade workbenches for the garage. To do this, blanks are cut from plywood and screwed together.

Tip: The number of boxes is selected according to the wishes of the owner of the product. They can be placed on both sides or with drawers on one side and open shelves on the other.

The drawer guides are installed as shown in the photo.

The boards are laid on the tabletop frame.

Tip: Boards should be 2.19 meters long and 245 millimeters wide. But if they are not there, the blanks are laid crosswise, 740 millimeters long. Before laying the boards, they should be treated with an antiseptic, which will protect the material from rotting.

Homemade metal workbenches for the garage are painted. This will prevent corrosion from forming. Particular attention should be paid to welds. They need to be thoroughly cleaned with a sander.
The top sheet of the tabletop is attached to the wooden boards with self-tapping screws.
Boxes are installed.
Plywood is attached to the side walls, a shield under the table, and shelves.

About universal workbenches

Among the branded products, which are sometimes quite expensive, you can find “universal” workbenches in the form of a carpenter’s bench with a lid without a tray, a complete bench vice on a wooden cushion, and a clamp for their installation, like the one in the photo:

“Universal” factory-made workbench This is a wrong decision not only because the wooden tabletop deteriorates from carpentry work. The main thing that is bad here is the technological fluids used in metal processing - oil, kerosene, etc. Wood soaked in them becomes much more flammable. Self-ignition is also possible; Remember, it is strictly forbidden to accumulate oily rags in production. A different approach to designing the tabletop (board, lid) of a universal workbench is needed based on the type of work it is primarily used for - fine or coarse, see below.

In order not to make changes to the location later, it is installed in accordance with the requirements of GOST and must correspond to the standard height. If the budget does not allow, and a person wants to test himself in a new business as a creator, then the workbench can be made with his own hands. This implies certain investments, but they will not be as significant as if you purchase ready-made equipment.

said Prince Andrei.

To prevent small parts or tools from falling into the cracks, and also to protect the workbench from damage and wear, the lid, depending on the nature of the work performed on it, is covered with sheet iron, linoleum, aluminum or plywood. Sides are installed on the front and sides of the lid to prevent parts from rolling off. At the bottom of the workbench, under the lid, there are drawers designed for storing tools, small parts and documentation. Each workbench must have at least two drawers, separated by partitions into a number of slots for storing tools. Mechanical workbenches can be single and multi-place. The most convenient are single-place workbenches with a length of 1200-1500 mm, a width of 700-800 mm, a height of 800-900 mm and multi-place workbenches with a length from 2800 to 3500 mm (depending on the number of workers), with a width of 700-800 mm. Multi-place workbenches have significant disadvantages, namely that when one worker performs precise work (marking, filing, scraping), and the other at the same time performs chopping or riveting, then as a result of the vibration of the workbench, the accuracy of the work performed by the first worker is disrupted. Therefore, single-seat workbenches are most convenient and most often used. Vices are installed on metalwork benches. In order to create normal conditions for work, the vice on the bench must be installed at a certain height in accordance with the height of the worker (Fig. 29, a). Fig. 29. Setting the height of the vice: a - when filing, b - when working on a parallel vice, c - when chopping in a chair vice. When choosing the height to which the parallel vice should be installed, you need to place the elbow of your hand on the jaws of the vice so that the ends of the straightened fingers hands touched the chin (Fig. 29, b). The chair vice should be installed at such a height that the hand placed with the elbow on its jaws touches the chin with fingers bent into a fist (Fig. 29, c). If the worker is of short stature, special stands (grids) should be used ). But the use of stands creates some inconveniences (cluttering of production areas, the need for stands of different heights, the cost of manufacturing and repairing them, etc.). Therefore, the designs of metal workbenches (Fig. 30, a) used in vocational schools deserve attention , with a special device for adjusting the height of the vice, in the form of retractable legs (Fig. 30, b). Fig. 30. Mechanic's workbench: a – general view; b – workbench leg: 1 – base, 2 – nut, 3 – screw, 4 – workbench leg Each leg consists of a base 1, in which a screw 3 is fixed. A nut 2 is screwed onto the screw, to which the workbench leg 4 is connected. This design of the legs allows you to adjust (within 50-250 mm) the height of the workbench board, and therefore the vice, according to the height of the worker. The teaching staff of the Sverdlovsk vocational school No. 1 has developed a different design of a metal workbench, excluding the use of stands and allowing the adjustment of the rise of the vice by desired height (Fig. 31).Fig. 31. A workbench with a lifting vice: 1 – screw, 2 – frame, 3 – vise shank, 4 – protective screen, 5 – tablet, 6 – aluminum corner, 7 – box. A thick-walled pipe is firmly fixed in frame 2. The vice has a steel shank 3, which is freely installed in the pipe, after which it is firmly secured with a clamp. The vice is lifted by rotating screw 1 connected to the shank.

How to install a vice on a bench

A vice is a necessary attribute of a metalworking bench.

Tip: Due to their heavy weight, they should not be attached directly to the tabletop. Between the metal on the table and the vice you need to put a metal spacer one millimeter thick.

Holes for anchor bolts are drilled in the gasket. The same holes are drilled in the tabletop. The structure is fixed with anchor bolts.

What are the safety requirements for the workbench:

The structure must be stable, not sway, and not move when little force is applied to it.
The organization of the workplace should be such that nothing interferes with work.
All corners and protruding elements must be rounded without cutting edges.
After finishing work at the workbench, the workplace is cleared of chips, oil and other materials.
A properly made workbench can withstand a load of up to 200 kilograms.

Using a high-quality workbench in your garage is the key to convenient work for its owner.

Step-by-step assembly instructions

To assemble a workbench yourself, you will need step-by-step instructions, accuracy and the following tools:

Bulgarian;
welding machine;
screwdriver and screwdrivers;
roulette;
drill;
jigsaw;

To make the entire structure with your own hands, you need, at a minimum, to be able to work with metal and have welding skills.

Step 1 - drawing up a drawing

So, the first thing to start with is to decide on the size of the workbench, for which you will have to find a place to install it. Most often, such a table is placed in a garage or other premises convenient for work.

Not every garage has a large area, so before you start work, you will have to work hard with a tape measure. You need to calculate the space for the equipment so that it is convenient to work with.

So, we found a place, wrote down the dimensions of the future workbench, taking into account the width, height and length, as well as the working area nearby.

Next comes the complex process of creating a drawing. You can take the finished one and make your own edits. So, for example, corners (or one corner) can be beveled if the dimensions of the garage do not allow for such a structure or if nearby objects interfere.

Whether there will be shelves, hooks or cabinets above the workbench is also up to you. But all wishes must be taken into account before you start assembling the entire structure.

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To do this, you can make an approximate list of tools that will be stored on your workbench and determine places for them - cabinets, shelves, hooks, drawers.

Step 2 - selection of materials

After sketching the project, you need to decide what to make the structure from. The supporting element (frame) is made of durable material (metal plates and pipes), since everything will be supported on it. The thicker and heavier the metal, the more stable the entire structure will be.

You can weld the frame yourself or take it from an old workbench. Cooking the frame is not as difficult as it seems: you need to make high-quality detailing, numbering all the parts and correctly calculating their dimensions in mm. According to these parameters, prepare all parts of the iron frame.

The type of material depends on your preference. For example, let's take a workbench with a metal frame, a wooden tabletop, additional drawers, shelves and a metal panel for tools. To assemble it you will need: steel strips, pipes, angles, plywood sheets, boards, screws, bolts, hooks, nails, guides, fire-resistant coating, paint for metal and wood, a metal plate for the shield.

Step 3 - frame assembly

Now we have to assemble all the parts into a single structure - the frame of the workbench. If you don't plan to move it, secure the legs to the floor with anchor bolts or screws to keep it from wobbling or moving when you work.

If welding parts of the frame are not carried out in the room itself, take into account the dimensions of the doorway. Since the design does not mean that it can be folded, dragging a large table will be quite difficult.

We firmly weld all parts and grind off all sharp protruding parts. Be sure to cover the structure itself with metal paint.

Step 4 - Attaching the tabletop

The tabletop must be strong to withstand hammer blows and the weight of all tools (on average about 200 kg). It can be made of metal or wood, without sharp cutting edges that could injure or tear clothing.

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All wooden surfaces used to create a workbench must be treated with a fire-resistant compound!

The tabletop must be firmly screwed or welded (if it is metal) to the frame. The best option is to use wood and iron. For example, choose a wooden tabletop, but cover it with a metal plate on top. This design will be impact-resistant and durable. And when working with liquids, such as machine oil and others, it can be easily put in order.

Special attention should be paid to the space on the tabletop for the vice. When choosing them, you should always consider weight.

Step 5 - Adding Shelves and Drawers

The more space allocated for a workbench, the more shelves and drawers you can make. You can use lighter material to make drawers if you are going to store small tools in them. For example, sheets of plywood.

It is better to calculate and prepare all materials in advance, the number of sheets of plywood, handles, sizes and number of furniture guides, screws, nails and other things.

When calculating the parameters of the drawer, you should definitely take into account the place for attaching the guides. A cheaper option is to nail small bars instead of guides. But there is a big disadvantage here: when pulling out the box, difficulties may arise, since there will be no convenient and movable wheels.

It is better to choose handles for drawers without sharp corners and not protruding too much, otherwise they will cling to clothes.

Instead of drawers and shelves, you can attach one large shelf under the table top, on which tools can easily fit. It won’t look beautiful, but the functionality and minimal waste of time for making such a structure will fully justify themselves.

Step 6 - Creating a Shield

An important attribute when arranging a work area in a garage is a toolbox. It can hang separately on the wall or be attached to the workbench structure itself.

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The choice of material for the shield is individual: it can be made of either wood or metal. You can combine two materials, which will be even more interesting. You can hang hooks on it or place pockets where you can also hang various tools.

If you choose a wooden shield, then it is best to attach it to a metal frame, and only then attach it to a wall or workbench.

Since a workbench is a workplace, it is worthwhile to use the space around it wisely, especially if the area of the room (in this case, the garage) does not allow for full development. You can also arrange storage areas next to your desk: various shelves, drawers, cabinets, which you can also make yourself.

Step 7 - lighting arrangement

Special attention should be paid to lighting the entire work area. There are many options for garage lighting, but it is better to choose a lamp that will illuminate a specific area rather than the entire room. Spot light distribution provides the desired level of illumination without wasting energy.

By the way, you can also make a lamp for lighting a workbench with your own hands, showing imagination and ingenuity.

Arrangement of the front and rear vices of the workbench.

Ensuring labor safety.

Proper organization of the workplace as a factor in increasing labor productivity and product quality.

Proper organization of the workplace promotes convenience at work, reduces worker fatigue, increases productivity and satisfaction from the work performed. The concept of “workplace organization” includes the availability of a set of equipment, tools and accessories; convenient arrangement of the material needed for work; storage place for workpieces and working tools; normal lighting with natural and artificial light; sanitary and hygienic working conditions.

An important stage in carpentry and carpentry work is the organization of the workplace, designed to increase labor productivity and product quality while observing safety regulations.

The nature of the operation performed determines the carpenter's workplace, however, during manual processing, the main equipment is a carpenter's workbench.

Purpose of the tool

Due to the wide variety of parts, you need to take into account that it will be convenient to use different types of tools for them. The design of a bench vice is standard. They are sometimes additionally equipped with a small anvil or pipe bender.

For small parts, a miniature version is used. Such a vice is convenient for home use or where you can work with small parts, for example, when repairing electronic equipment. These vices are portable. They do not use removable cheeks. Therefore, when working between the part and the pressing surface, the master places rubber or plastic gaskets.

This video talks about the best models of carpentry vices:

How to make a simple carpenter's vice for a workbench

A workbench without a vice is nothing more than just a table. A carpenter's vice is a necessary tool for every craftsman. They provide reliable fixation of wooden and metal parts during processing. The design is based on a Moxon vice with two screws - a reliable, budget-friendly and easy-to-manufacture option. In addition, a handmade tool is twice as pleasant to use as a purchased one. Therefore, catch the instructions on how to make a carpenter's vice from wood with your own hands.

You will need Necessary materials:

2 pieces of plywood 10 mm thick (the sponge on the workbench is 480 x 90 mm, the second no more than 250 x 80 for the handles),
Beam 45x90 mm, length 480 mm;
Drills of various diameters - 1, 4, 8, 10, 12 mm;
Studs M10x250 – 2 pcs. (I would recommend using all M12 fasteners, but I couldn’t find any driving nuts of that diameter);
Wood screws;
Drive nuts M10 – 4 pcs.;
Ring crowns for wood of various diameters;
Forstner drill (for lack of availability, I used a 22 point drill bit);
Wood glue;
A short piece of steel wire with a diameter of 1 mm.

Screwdriver;
Clamp – 2 pcs.;
Hammer;
Square;
Pencil;
Chisel (not needed if you use a Forstner drill);
Wire cutters.

Step-by-step instructions for making a carpenter's vice: 1. Measure 10 cm on both sides of the plywood, center and mark the points of future holes for screws.

2. For convenience, we secure the plywood and timber together with a clamp. 3. Drill through the marked points a hole with a diameter of 12 mm. Use a drill depending on the diameter of your studs plus 2 mm. 4. Using a drill, we make 3-4 mm holes for self-tapping screws for further fastening the future fixed part of the vice to the workbench. We place the holes 2 at the edges and 2 in the middle, making a small indent from the edges. 5. To ensure that the heads of the screws are hidden using a metal drill with a diameter of 12 mm, we make small indentations in the holes made. 6. Attach the plywood to the workbench using wood screws. The stationary vise jaw is ready. 7. Next, using the holes for the studs (12 mm) in the plywood as a guide, we drill the workbench itself. 8. Take 2 M10 driving nuts (they are also called mortise nuts) and drive them into the workbench from the reverse side. 9. Take a small piece of plywood, mark and center the diameters of the future handles on it using wood bits. Select the diameter of the handles to suit your hand - I chose 67 and 54 mm. 10. It is necessary to mark 2 large washers and 2 smaller ones with a diameter of 1.5-2 cm. 11. Drill a hole in the middle of each marked diameter, the diameter of which will coincide with the diameter of the guide drill in the crowns - in my case it is 8 mm. You can skip this step and immediately drill the hole with a standard central drill bit for ring bits. 12. Using crowns, cut out the washers and sand their edges with sandpaper. 13. Using a drill equal to the outer diameter of the cage nut (12 vv), we expand the holes in the small washers. 14. In the large washers, we drill small recesses with a 22 Forstner drill so that the caps of the driving nuts can be inserted there without gaps. In the absence of it, I had to make holes with a feather drill and work a little with a chisel. 15. We insert the mortise nuts and drive them into small washers. 16. Screw the studs flush with the nut head. 17. Now you need to lock the threaded connection. Attach both structures with a clamp to a convenient surface. I used a timber for future vices. 18. Using a 1mm metal drill, make holes in the caps of the cage nuts along the thread boundary. The drilling depth is no more than 1 cm. 19. Bite off pieces of steel wire of the same length and insert them into the drilled holes to secure the structure. 20. Lubricate the sides of the washers with wood glue and tightly fasten them together coaxially, securing them with a clamp until completely dry. 21. Using a 3-4 mm drill, make two holes on the inside of the handles on each side of the stud with a depth of no more than 10 mm. 22. Make hidden chamfers for the screw heads. 23. For reliability, secure the parts of the handle with wood screws. 24. Insert the pins into the holes in the large block and screw them to the main part on the workbench. 25. The vice is ready. Watch the video For detailed instructions on how to make a vice for a workbench with your own hands, watch the video.

Rotary parallel bench vice - design features

The massive base of the device has three ears with holes. Their purpose is to secure the device to a workbench using bolts. The base can be steel or cast iron, as it does not bear shock loads. The workbench, table or log to which the device will be attached must be heavy, stable and difficult to turn over. The device must be installed on a horizontal surface with the rotary handle towards the edge. The most convenient position is when the rotary handle rotates freely without flipping and does not touch the edge of the workbench. The fixed jaw at its base has two screws that are designed to fix its position relative to the base. After loosening both screws, the bench vice mechanism can be rotated clockwise or counterclockwise at an arbitrary angle (up to 120°) relative to the base. After setting the required working position, the fixing screws must be tightened. In the upper part, the fixed jaw passes into a plane, which serves as an anvil. It is the use of a bench vice, made according to GOST 4045-75, as an anvil that determines the use of steel components.

Download GOST 4045-75 “Bench vice with manual drive”

The part of the upper jaw at the place where the workpiece is clamped is equipped with a replaceable jaw. It is secured with two countersunk screws. Fully tightening the screws does not make the cover immobile. This is necessary to ensure that the workpiece is not damaged when the clamping screw is tightly tightened. The cheeks are always steel, even if other parts are made of cast iron. Replacement linings are hardened and can have two types of notches: cross-shaped or dotted. When fastening soft materials, their surface may be damaged by the notch. If this is critical, then you can use soft pads (made of wood, aluminum) on the cheeks. In addition, when fastening parts that have a shape close to spherical or cylindrical, it is recommended to install cheeks of a special geometric shape instead of the usual flat ones, which are also provided for by GOST. The movable jaw is also equipped with a similar steel cheek with a notch. It ensures its linear movement by having a guiding hollow rectangular parallelepiped (trunk), which moves through a rectangular hole in the fixed jaw (the guiding trunk and hole can be of another shape - semicircular, trapezoidal). The workpiece is fixed and the movable jaw moves thanks to a screw that is rotated using the rotary handle. The screw may have different thread pitches. The finer it is, the more accurately you can clamp the workpiece.

When securing a workpiece, do not use pads or extensions for the rotary handle. This can lead to breakage of the threads on the clamping screw (stripping the thread).

Pneumatic parallel bench vice

The production of such devices is regulated by GOST 12.2.029-77. Structurally, this device differs from a conventional locksmith clamping mechanism (manufactured in accordance with GOST 4045-75) only by the presence of a pneumatic drive, which provides high operating speed (2-3 s for one fastening), equal clamping force and eliminates the use of great physical force. Control is carried out using a lever or pedal.

I saw off the legs of the bench to fit the size, place them under the frame of the underframe and fasten them with self-tapping screws from above through the longitudinal beams, and at the bottom - obliquely through the legs into the lower beam. At this stage, before installing the table tops with a vice, it’s time to varnish the entire frame of the workbench so that the wood does not become damaged over time. darkened and did not deteriorate.

I saw off the underframe to the size of the legs, put it under the frame of the underframe and fasten it with self-tapping screws from above through the longitudinal beams, and at the bottom obliquely through the legs into the lower beam.
Here I will talk about how I fulfilled my old dream - I made a super workbench ;-), and I will also describe in detail the installation of a carpenter's vice and the manufacture of stops and sockets for them in the workbench. Carpenter's vice for workbench

.I started first of all by purchasing a vice for the workbench. For comfortable work on the workbench, it is ideal to take two vices - one vice is installed on the right side for clamping long parts,

the second vice is on the left front for clamping short parts and boards when planing edges.

(The pictures are taken from American woodworking magazines to illustrate my words, since I myself have not yet had time to work on a workbench ;-)). On sale you can find both domestic carpentry vices and imported ones (mainly in online stores). Imported vices are much more expensive, with the same quality, if not worse. I purchased a quick-clamping carpentry vice “Bison Expert 175 mm”.

There is also the same vice for 225 mm - these dimensions indicate the width of the jaws. The 225 mm vice is much heavier; if the 175 mm weighs 9 kg, then the 225 mm one weighs all 20. In principle, the vice I purchased is quite sufficient for comfortable work - the width of the jaws is 175 mm, the screw stroke is 21 cm. Tabletop for a workbench

.The next important stage in the manufacture of a workbench is the manufacture or selection of a table top for the workbench.
I just had an excellent old, thick and heavy, and at the same time perfectly smooth, door measuring 2 meters by 70 cm. I put it on the workbench. Planning the Vise and Workbench
Next, I marked the location of the vise on the benchtop.

Now I have received the initial dimensions for making a bench - the base on which the tabletop with a vice will rest. The place for the workbench was determined in advance - under the brightest window.

I decided to make a workbench the entire length of the wall, and the main task was to fit the tabletop with a vice into this space so that I could work comfortably with the vice. It is clear that for comfortable work the workbench must stand like a rock, without swaying or swaying. In my case, I decided to achieve the solidity of the workbench by rigidly attaching it to the wall (that is, making the workbench stationary and not free-standing) and using thick bars when assembling the frame of the bench. Assembly of the subbench

So, after painstaking deliberation, fittings and taking measurements, the final drawings of the sub-bench were drawn up, a list of the necessary materials was drawn up and a work plan was thought out. You can begin to implement your plans. First of all, I attach the main supporting beam and racks, screwing them to the wall.

Behind it I install a second supporting beam.

This beam is secured to the racks screwed to the wall using a groove cut with a jigsaw.

Of course, I constantly use a level, observing the horizontal and vertical planes. The foundation of the subsurface has been laid.

I screw the beams to the floor, which will become the base for the legs of the underframe.

And I begin to assemble the rigid structure of the underframe, fastening the beams into half a tree.

I made the half-tree connection quickly, using a drill and jigsaw.

I simply screwed the front beams of the underframe to the cross beams using self-tapping screws. I note that when marking the underframe, it is better to recess it two or three centimeters under the tabletop - it will be more convenient to sweep away shavings and dust from the tabletop into a dustpan.

I saw off the underframe to the size of the legs, put it under the frame of the underframe and fasten it with self-tapping screws on top through the longitudinal beams, and at the bottom - obliquely through the legs into the lower beam.

When drilling holes, I ensure their squareness with a guide for the drill. By the way, the cross-section of all the beams turned out to be 100x50mm, and the legs - 100x70mm. The underframe is ready! To my surprise, the structure turned out to be very strong and monolithic, so there was no need to install the previously planned stringers between the load-bearing beams and the wall to strengthen the frame, as well as the corners between the beams of the underframe. At this stage, before installing the table tops with a vice, it’s time to patch the entire frame workbench so that the wood does not darken or deteriorate over time. Published: 09/11/2011

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A workbench can also be adapted for carpentry work if you drill 2-4 pairs of holes in the tabletop for fixing the carpentry stop (on the right and in the center in the figure). In this case, round bosses are screwed to the lower surface of the stop with self-tapping screws; Plastic bottle caps work well; they can withstand a tight fit many times. Design of an all-wood workbench

In this case, round bosses are screwed to the lower surface of the stop with self-tapping screws;
Plastic bottle caps work well; they can withstand a tight fit many times. The general principle of the development of materials processing technology from prehistoric times to the present day is how to make parts for more precise ones using inaccurate equipment. And it all started with a workbench; prototypes of it are found during excavations of Stone Age settlements. It is quite possible to build a workbench, a full-fledged one, with your own hands, and this will not only save a significant amount, but will also simplify, facilitate the work and improve its results.

Vise for a workbench from an old clamp

Antagonizer from instructables.com shared his experience building a bench vise. Further from his words.

When the vise on my workbench broke, I decided to replace it with a new one. But in the store I was unpleasantly surprised by their cost. Depending on the manufacturer, the price runs into hundreds of dollars.

Therefore, I decided to make a vice myself, using only hand tools and using only available materials. I'm showing you how to create a fully functional woodworking vice.

Work bench

In the West, amateur/home workbenches with a stacked table top framed by a side are widespread. Drawings of such a “work bench” are shown in Fig. Under the metalworker, the lid is covered with a sheet of steel 1.5-2 mm thick and a vice is placed on the pad. Drawings of an American-type home workbench The workbench-bench dampens vibrations well; It can be made from pine or spruce. But the design is complex, and it is inconvenient to work with long materials and furniture on such a workbench. Therefore, we will first look at how to make the most common carpentry workbench, then a garage and a mechanic's workbench. Next, we will try to combine them into a universal workbench and see what we can come up with on this basis for special needs. Read also: Machines for recycling plastic bottles

I'm disassembling the clamp

I begin to disassemble the clamp:

I cut off the locking (clamping) plate from the screw.
I unscrew the screw.
I cut off the threaded part at the end of the clamp just before the bend.

Video description

TOP-5.
The best bench vice. Machine vices are actually part of a particular machine. Usually special protrusions are provided for their fastening in the structure. Thanks to them, you can adjust the position of the fixed part in relation to the working element of the machine. This tool is usually made of steel.

A hand vice is two plates fastened together on one side with a metal bridge. The parts are clamped using a special screw. During operation, the vise with the part is held in the hand.

Carpentry is mounted on a workbench. They are made from steel or wooden parts. This type of vice is also called a carpenter's vice. One of their features is the use of large area sponges with a smooth surface.

I make wooden parts

First, I cut a piece of board measuring 5.08 x 15.24 cm, which exactly matches the height of the table surface as a mounting base.

The vise itself will be attached to the table leg, and its length will provide more reinforcement.

I also needed a second piece of 5.08 x 15.24 cm, and a clamping board 60 cm long.
Next, I mark and drill a hole for installing a threaded bushing and a hole for the screw itself

The higher the bushing is to the edge of the vise, the greater the clamping force, and the lower it is, the greater the range.

I insert a nut into the hole for the screw and drive it in tightly. When tightening the vice, the nut must be securely fastened.

Vices, stops and other devices

As a conclusion, we will give a couple of tips: what and how to equip a workbench for convenient work. The first and most obvious is a bench vise. They should be quite massive; for a garage, a jaw opening of at least 15 cm is recommended. Please note that the vice must be fastened through the table, providing a counter steel plate with holes on the bottom side. The optimal location is 100–120 cm from any of the corners of the workbench, and it is advisable to provide additional holes so that the vice can be rotated at a right angle.

Article on the topic: At what distance from the fence can you build a garage in Ukraine

The second constant attribute is a plate for cutting metal. There is no point in deliberately breaking the table covering, especially if there is a heat-resistant gasket underneath. The optimal dimensions of the slab are 300x300 mm with a thickness of at least 20 mm. If you have difficulty selecting such thick metal, weld together several thin plates, first tightening them with bolts.

Depending on your hobby, a carpenter's vice, a removable tin mandrel, and a few adjustable stops may also be useful: corners with pins that are inserted into holes in the tabletop with strikers screwed in from below. It is also very useful to set aside a place for finishing and fine work, placing a sheet of glass there on a springy rubber lining.

Creating a hinge joint

I cut two blocks from the base of the pressure board, each 3.8 cm wide and 8.9 cm long.
I drilled a horizontal hole through the remaining part, 2.54 cm from the end.
Adding summary blocks. I shorten them to 10 cm, then drill a hole, retreating 5 cm from the top edge.
I cut grooves to the size of the blocks in the workbench racks.
I lubricate the parts with glue and connect them.
I install the bolt, but do not tighten it, checking that the entire mechanism moves freely in the grooves of the blocks.

Assembling the clamp

To prevent the screw from clinging to the workbench, I make a spacer for it.

To do this, I used a hole saw and cut a 5 cm disc from a 5x10 cm board.
Then I drilled a center hole equal to the diameter of my screw.
I lubricated the hole with oil and screwed in the bolt.

In the last photo you can see that I have 2 spacers installed. While using the vice, I realized that there was not enough room for my hands, and I substituted another spacer.

Once the clamp was assembled, I needed to attach it to the workbench leg. To do this, I used 80 mm screws, with which I screwed the vice at 150 mm intervals through the mounting base directly to the workbench leg.

Compression ratio

This parameter is one of the most important when choosing a wizard tool. It ensures reliable fixation and the inability to move the part during processing. The more massive products you have to work with, the more important this characteristic of the vice design is.

If the tool does not provide sufficient fixation force, then during operation the part may accidentally move, which will lead to a decrease in the quality of the corresponding operation.

Using a vice makes work more efficient Source moiinstrumentu.ru

I make wedges

I made the wedges from a hardwood pin with a diameter of 25 mm:

I narrowed the lower part, 38 mm long, to a diameter of 15 mm, then sanded it.
I drilled several holes with a diameter of 15 mm directly into the table at intervals of 635 mm at a distance of 100 mm from each other.

Final result

The vice is ready. Thanks to this design, I can clamp and process fairly large workpieces. And the presence of wedges allows you to fix entire pieces of untreated wood.

Carpenter's vice for a workbench: do it yourself

It is difficult to imagine the workshop of a home craftsman who often works with wood products without such a useful device as a carpenter's vice. Using this clamping device, which is easy to make with your own hands, you can perform various technological operations with wooden parts.

The design of a carpenter's vice is not so complicated as to give up the idea of making one yourself

Steel or cast iron?

Products made of gray cast iron are characterized by low cost, durability, and moderate corrosion resistance. Their main disadvantage is impact resistance. If there is a strong impact on the anvil or workpiece, it may be damaged. You can buy stronger bench vices in Minsk from high-strength cast iron with nodular graphite. However, their cost is higher.

In recent years, manufacturers have often preferred steel, which is lighter and stronger than cast iron. Modifications made from hardened forged steel are especially appreciated. However, it should be taken into account that low-quality steel is used in the budget segment, products from which are often worse than cast iron.

How a vice works for carpentry work

The design of a vice for carpentry work consists of the following elements:

a support, which is also a stationary clamping jaw;
movable clamping jaw;
two metal guides along which the movable jaw moves;
a lead screw that ensures movement of the movable jaw;
a crank through which rotation is imparted to the lead screw.

Main parts of a vice for a carpenter's workbench

The fixed support of the carpenter's vice is securely fixed to the surface of the workbench, for which long screws or bolted fasteners are used. Many serial models provide the possibility of using replaceable pads on movable and fixed jaws. Such overlays, which increase the versatility of carpentry vices, can be made of metal and polymer materials.

Since bench vies are often used for processing large wooden products, the design of many models includes a spring mechanism that facilitates the manipulations. Such a mechanism, which can also be installed on a homemade carpentry vice, provides preliminary clamping of the part (it is finally fixed using a lead screw). If this mechanism is absent in the design of a bench vise, then the carpenter will have to hold the wooden workpiece suspended for a long time before the movable clamping jaw is brought to it.

Homemade jaw clamp

An excerpt characterizing the Workbench

- No, promise me that you won’t refuse. It will not cost you any work, and there will be nothing unworthy of you in it. Only you can console me. Promise, Andryusha,” she said, putting her hand into the reticule and holding something in it, but not yet showing it, as if what she was holding was the subject of the request and as if before receiving the promise to fulfill the request, she could not take it out of the reticule It is something. She looked timidly and pleadingly at her brother. “Even if it cost me a lot of work...”, answered Prince Andrei, as if guessing what was the matter. - Think whatever you want! I know you are the same as mon pere. Think what you want, but do it for me. Do it please! My father’s father, our grandfather, wore it in all the wars...” She still didn’t take what she was holding out of the reticule. - So you promise me? - Of course, what's the matter? - Andre, I will bless you with the image, and you promise me that you will never take it off. Do you promise? “If he doesn’t stretch his neck by two pounds... To please you...” said Prince Andrei, but at that very second, noticing the distressed expression that his sister’s face took on at this joke, he repented. “Very glad, really very glad, my friend,” he added. “Against your will, He will save and have mercy on you and turn you to Himself, because in Him alone there is truth and peace,” she said in a voice trembling with emotion, with a solemn gesture holding in both hands in front of her brother an oval ancient icon of the Savior with a black face in silver chasuble on a silver chain of fine workmanship. She crossed herself, kissed the icon and handed it to Andrey. – Please, Andre, for me... Rays of kind and timid light shone from her large eyes. These eyes illuminated the entire sickly, thin face and made it beautiful. The brother wanted to take the icon, but she stopped him. Andrei understood, crossed himself and kissed the icon. His face was at the same time tender (he was touched) and mocking. - Merci, mon ami. [Thank you, my friend.] She kissed his forehead and sat down on the sofa again. They were silent. “So I told you, Andre, be kind and generous, as you always have been.” Don’t judge Lise harshly,” she began. “She is so sweet, so kind, and her situation is very difficult now.” “It seems that I didn’t tell you anything, Masha, that I should blame my wife for anything or be dissatisfied with her.” Why are you telling me all this? Princess Marya blushed in spots and fell silent, as if she felt guilty. - I didn’t tell you anything, but they already told you. And it makes me sad. Red spots appeared even more strongly on Princess Marya’s forehead, neck and cheeks. She wanted to say something and could not say it. The brother guessed right: the little princess cried after dinner, said that she foresaw an unhappy birth, was afraid of it, and complained about her fate, about her father-in-law and her husband. After crying, she fell asleep. Prince Andrei felt sorry for his sister. - Know one thing, Masha, I cannot reproach myself for anything, I have not reproached and will never reproach my wife, and I myself cannot reproach myself for anything in relation to her; and it will always be so, no matter what my circumstances. But if you want to know the truth... do you want to know if I'm happy? No. Is she happy? No. Why is this? I don’t know... Saying this, he stood up, walked up to his sister and, bending down, kissed her on the forehead. His beautiful eyes shone with an intelligent and kind, unusual sparkle, but he looked not at his sister, but into the darkness of the open door, over her head. - Let's go to her, we need to say goodbye. Or go alone, wake her up, and I’ll be right there. Parsley! - he shouted to the valet, - come here, clean it up. It's in the seat, it's on the right side. Princess Marya stood up and headed towards the door. She stopped. – Andre, si vous avez. la foi, vous vous seriez adresse a Dieu, pour qu'il vous donne l'amour, que vous ne sentez pas et votre priere aurait ete exaucee. [If you had faith, you would turn to God with a prayer, so that He would give you the love that you do not feel, and your prayer would be heard.] - Yes, is that so! - said Prince Andrei. - Go, Masha, I’ll be right there. On the way to his sister’s room, in the gallery connecting one house to another, Prince Andrei met the sweetly smiling Mlle Bourienne, who for the third time that day had come across him with an enthusiastic and naive smile in secluded passages. - Ah! “je vous croyais chez vous, [Oh, I thought you were at home,” she said, for some reason blushing and lowering her eyes. Prince Andrei looked at her sternly. Prince Andrei’s face suddenly expressed anger. He said nothing to her, but looked at her forehead and hair, without looking into her eyes, so contemptuously that the Frenchwoman blushed and left without saying anything.

The movable jaw is attached at the bottom to the stationary installation by means of a steel bracket. A threaded screw is placed in the middle of the parts. For fixation, the nut into which it is screwed is pressed into a steel U-shaped profile, attached with self-tapping screws to the rear surface of the stationary jaw. Holes of the required diameter are drilled: two for the scenes, one for the clamping screw. To ensure a fit for both holes, it is recommended to drill simultaneously by pressing the two jaws together. Considering the nature of the material used, nails must be used for this purpose; they are removed after drilling.

Steel angles are mounted on the clamping surfaces of the jaws.

There is hardly a more necessary device in a home workshop than a bench vise. Even if you mostly work with wood, sometimes you won't be able to do without a vice. And if you don’t have a workshop, a garage or a corner in your apartment where you can repair simple household utensils, having a small benchtop bench vise can be a great help in many situations, turning a kitchen table or even a stool into a mini-workshop.