Diold rotary hammers features and operating tips

How to disassemble a hammer drill without the help of others

A hammer drill is a tool that requires stern work during its operation and disassembly. For this purpose, you should know its structure; our client is left with the components included in the design of the tool. Quick orientation in the device and knowledge of how to disassemble a rotary hammer will allow you to avoid unnecessary expenses both financially and in terms of labor.

A hammer drill, as opposed to an ordinary drill, is of course easy to drill into concrete and other strong materials.

Even the most insignificant malfunction of the device leads to breakdowns of a more severe nature. A step-by-step disassembly will allow you to quickly find if a tool is broken. It is important to know the cause of the breakdown and the methods that will allow you to remove it. Disassembling a tool requires following a certain sequence.

The main malfunctions of a rotary hammer and their external signs

All unit malfunctions can be divided into 2 groups: mechanical and electrical.

Mechanical breakdowns

If any mechanical malfunction appears in the hammer drill, its presence can be determined by ear (noise increases, a grinding sound appears).

You may also experience increased vibration or an unpleasant odor emanating from the unit body.

So, mechanical failures include the following:

• failure of the device operating mode switch;
• worn rubber bands of the striker and striker;
• failure of the impact mechanism;
• failure of the unit barrel due to wear;
• breakage of gear teeth;
• the chuck breaks, causing the drill to fly out.

Electrical faults

Malfunctions associated with the electrical part of the hammer drill may also be accompanied by an unpleasant odor from the device body and sparking. You may also notice that the engine gets hot and hums quickly without turning over, or that it emits smoke.

Electrical failures of the device include the following:

• the device does not turn on;
• breakage of the start button;
• brush wear;
• collector clogged;
• violation of electrical contacts;
• burnout of the stator or rotor winding of an electric motor.

Perforator device

The main element of the hammer drill is the engine, which consists of an armature and brushes.

Engine control device. Start and stop button. Interference suppression elements (capacitor, chokes); Power cord.

In some models, the switch is combined with a control device.

​Auxiliary mechanisms

Some models may be equipped with additional parts:

• mode switch;
• vacuum cleaner;
• depth limit;
• other.

Electrical faults and their elimination

1. The device does not turn on for the following reasons:

• Broken cord (usually near the handle). The cord should be replaced or shortened, cleaned, carefully threaded into the rubber shock absorber seal on the handle and soldered in the appropriate places.
• Poor contact in the switch (eg oxidation).
• Breakage (combustion) of extinguishing elements. They should be replaced. For a while (if there are no such elements), you can connect the engine “directly” to the control unit. Please note - this method can lead to rapid wear of the motor.
• Combustion of the UUD itself. Replace with a new one.
• Winding breakage or burnout. You need to take it to a workshop or a friend to rewind it.

Tip: Check for broken cord or windings, non-contact of switch and combustion of extinguishing elements with a tester.

1. Sparks are visible inside the housing. They are called:

• Poor fit of the brushes to the armature due to wear. It is necessary to change the brushes or sharpen them with a file (fine “sandpaper”).
• Oxidation of the anchor. To be cleaned with a student's eraser or alcohol.

1. The speed does not change due to a malfunction of the control unit. It needs to be replaced, but you can get by with it for a while.
2. Smoke comes from faulty windings, brushes or other elements. For example, due to “sticking” of the motor, the windings begin to heat up and smoke. Visual inspection required
3. A short circuit in the cord (insulation breakdown) or switch can cause the plugs to be knocked out.

Algorithm for disassembling a hammer drill

To eliminate mechanical and electrical faults (with the exception of a broken electrical plug), disassembling the unit body is indispensable. The most popular brands among craftsmen, both home and professional, are Bosch, Makita, Interskol, and Energomash hammer drills. The design of units from different manufacturers is approximately the same, therefore the methods for disassembling the devices will be similar. But you should not completely disassemble the device, since it will be difficult to put it back together. The photo below shows what a completely disassembled hammer drill looks like.

Removing the cartridge

Disassembling the unit for troubleshooting should be carried out carefully, inspecting each removed part. To make assembly easier, it is better to photograph the disassembly process. If you do not find any external defects on the device, then it is recommended to start disassembling it with the cartridge.

1. First, remove the boot (1), made of rubber.
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2. Carefully, so as not to lose it, use a screwdriver to remove the retaining ring (2) and then the plastic boot (3).
3. At the next stage, it is important not to lose the small ball that is located under the washer (4). Remove the washer (4), plate (5) and spring (6), as well as the ball (7). It is when these parts wear out that the drill falls out of the chuck. Some cartridge models may have additional balls and washers.

We disassemble the case

If disassembling the unit housing is required, you must first remove the operating mode switch.

1. Place the switch in the “Blow” position. Usually a hammer is drawn in this place on the body. If this mode is not available, set the switch to the “Punch + Drilling” position.

2. Next, you should press the button located on the switch handle and turn it slightly below the hammer icon until a characteristic click is heard.
3. After this, you need to pry the switch with a screwdriver and, pulling it towards yourself, remove it. In some models of units, this switch can be screwed to the housing.

Disassembling the electrical part of the hammer drill

To get to the electrical part of the device, if you suspect that this is where there may be a breakdown, you must perform the following steps.

1. Unscrew the screws holding the back cover and remove it.

2. Unscrew the fasteners holding the network cable.
3. Next, you should remove the wires from the fastenings and remove the start button.
4. Remove all wires attached to the stator.

5. Remove the brushes by unscrewing the mounting bolts.
6. Separate the housings of the electrical and mechanical parts of the device by unscrewing the corresponding bolts. Use a flathead screwdriver to separate.
7. Remove the rotor from the gearbox. If you need to replace bearings, use a special puller.
8. Remove the air intake located in the housing of the electric part of the hammer drill.
9. Disconnect the stator from the housing. To make it easier to come out of the casing, it is recommended to pull the stator by lightly tapping the casing with a wooden object.

If you need to disassemble a barrel perforator with a vertical electric drive, first remove the handle, and then unscrew the bolts holding the motor.

How to disassemble a hammer drill to lubricate it

For prevention, the device must be cleaned once every two weeks, soaking it with varnish or lubricant. The choice of lubricant is made very carefully. The main rules that you should not forget when lubrication:

Types of attachments and extensions for rotary hammers.

1. You should take a solution that is produced by the same manufacturer as the hammer drill itself.
2. Use diesel oil if varnish or special oil is not available.
3. It is necessary to create a change of brushes, which are often subject to wear.

It is necessary to disassemble the hammer drill to change the brushes even in this case, if the tool is a rather expensive model. To change the brushes, the hammer drill is disassembled according to the principle described above. Then they find brushes that are worn out, remove them from the structure, and replace them with others.

It is best to use carbon-graphite brushes, which are a good, not very expensive option. Graphite brushes are used, which have a long service life. Carbon ones last a relatively short time, but they contact other parts of the hammer drill at a high quality level.

Replacing motor brushes

The main sign that it is time to change the brushes is the formation of increased sparking in the area of ​​the electric motor commutator, rapid heating of the brush holders, and a burning smell. When the brushes are not worn out, the spark can only be seen under them. Otherwise, the spark is visible throughout the entire circle of the collector.

The presence of a spark around the commutator circle with unworn brushes is a sign of bearing wear, rotor or stator insulation failure, commutator plate burnout, stator or rotor burnout.

Another sign that the stator has burned out is the presence of sparks under only one electrode. If you have a tester, you can use it to check the stator and rotor: measure the resistance on the rotor and stator one by one. If it is the same on both windings, then everything is fine with the stator. If you notice clear signs of problems with the rotor or stator in your hammer drill, you will have to take the device to a service center for repair. As for the brushes, you can change them yourself.

To get to the place where the brushes are installed, you will need to disassemble the housing in which the motor is installed, or simply remove the back cover. Opening the lid, you will see brushes secured in special holders. The photo below shows what these parts look like.

Brushes that are installed on rotary hammer motors come in 3 types.

1. Graphite ones are durable, but since they are very hard, their rubbing into the collector is not ideal, which negatively affects the latter.
2. Carbon - easily rubs into the commutator, providing good contact, but wears out quickly.
3. Carbon-graphite is an ideal option, since they are a mixture of 2 components that complement each other.

It is very important not to wait until the engine sparks and then change the brushes. Replacement is needed after they are worn to 1/3 of the nominal value (8 mm). Even if one brush is worn less than the other, both still need to be replaced.

Pay attention to the condition of the spring in new brushes and the fastening of the contact. If the spring falls off while the engine is running, it will suffer significant damage. Also, if the spring is weak, then it will not be able to provide good contact.

Before changing the brushes, be sure to thoroughly clean the rotor and stator from any remaining graphite or coal dust. These parts can be cleaned using technical or medical alcohol.

Next, you should secure the electrodes in the holders and rub them into the collector. To do this, place a piece of fine-grained sandpaper on the commutator and grind the electrode in with rotational movements in different directions. The grinding continues until the contact area of ​​the electrode is slightly rounded. This will ensure a better fit to the collector plates and, accordingly, better contact.

Design of the working unit and equipment of the hammer drill

The hammer drill has a chuck into which the working tools are secured. For professional heavy hammer drills, SDS max chucks accept only 18 mm diameter shanks with five longitudinal grooves, which are installed in the chuck socket of the corresponding profile.

The light and medium tool is equipped with an SDS plus chuck, which allows the use of a slotting tool with four longitudinal grooves and a cross-section of 10 mm. The hammer drill chuck is designed so that it can only accept tools intended for it. If you insert the wrong equipment, it will not fit into the socket, or it will be installed sideways. If you try to work, the fastening unit will be destroyed. But drills do not have a fluted shank. An attached cartridge is used, which is installed in the SDS profile. But at the same time the tool lengthens. The drill chuck for a hammer drill can be a quick-release chuck or a key chuck. The adapter is used only with an SDS+ chuck, since a more powerful hammer drill does not have the function of drilling without impact.

A hammer drill is a multifunctional tool. It can use modes:

• shock;
• impact with drilling;
• drilling, if there is a special chuck.

To work in shock mode, there are many devices used to facilitate manual labor.

Drilling impact is performed only with the use of hammer drill attachments:

• Boer;
• hollow crown;
• paddle for scoring.

A drill is a tool that has a special profile shank, a working part that is a screw and a tip made of special steel with a centering tip. The destruction of the material occurs not by scraping, but by chipping the rock. At the same time, an impact with rotation occurs, as a result of which the chipped pieces are removed along the screw surface of the working part.

Drills for hammer drills are installed when working in non-impact mode. With this tool, a lightweight hammer drill can work like a regular wood drill. If necessary, the device can be used to tighten fasteners if a reverse function is provided.

A hollow crown is needed for making through passages for cable wiring or for creating recesses in the body of a structure for installing devices. The crown creates a circular passage, leaving a post in the middle. Since the nozzle has a special toothed profile, metal reinforcement in concrete will render the cutters unusable.

Recesses in the wall can be made with a special spatula for grooves, but the holes will not look as neat as those made with a crown.

When using one impact mode, use with attachments:

• spatula or flat chisel;
• peak;
• channel chisel;
• bush hammer

A hammer drill blade is designed to level a surface made of hard material. Using this equipment, you can remove tiles from walls and remove uneven surfaces from hardened concrete. Correction of some flaws when installing openings in multi-story construction is carried out using this tool. A hammer drill chisel used for concrete can have different widths, depending on the task being performed. Suitable for all rotary hammers. Specially created, narrowly targeted attachments are also used - a chisel, a tamping plate or a mortar cutter.

When dismantling building structures, it is necessary to create a breaking force. To destroy a wall or partition, concentrated at one point, the impact of the lance is provided by the power of the hammer drill.

Bucharda is a molded attachment, a very durable sledgehammer. The teeth on the bush hammer are carbide and can withstand heavy shock loads. Removing a layer of concrete from a wall, knocking off a layer of rust from metal - this is the area of ​​application for bush hammers. If you treat the walls with this tool before plastering, no reinforcement will be required. You cannot use a bush hammer for a rotary hammer in the mode of rotating the tool. The inevitable consequence will be jamming.

Diagram of the impact mechanism, its malfunctions and repairs

The impact mechanisms of rotary hammers differ in their design, depending on which family the devices belong to. Therefore, the repair of these mechanisms will take place according to different principles.

Barrel perforators

Rotary hammers with a vertical engine usually have an impact unit based on a crank mechanism (CSM). Below is a diagram of this type of impact mechanism.

The following photo shows a section of the device, where you can see the location of the crankshaft.

The impact mechanism of a unit with a vertical motor may have the following malfunctions. The connecting rod mechanism has a separate bearing that is mounted on the cam of the wheel with an eccentric, but sometimes it can be located at the base of the connecting rod. In some models of rotary hammers, a plain bearing (instead of a rolling bearing) may be installed at this location, which requires constant lubrication. If it is not there, or it is already old, then this unit will wear out. During repairs, you will have to completely replace the connecting rod and eccentric barrel.

Another common problem is the firing pin breaking. This malfunction can be calculated if you notice that there is no longer any impact on your hammer drill. To get to the firing pin, you will need to completely disassemble the barrel of the device. It is done as follows.

1. Disconnect the barrel from the hammer body, remove the cartridge (see description above). Tap the barrel on the table so that the piston falls out. Take a rubber mallet and knock the barrel out of the housing.

2. Remove the retaining ring holding the bearing.

3. Remove the bearing itself and lightly tap the table to remove the balls.

4. After removing the 3 balls, you can pull out the raster sleeve.

5. Also, as in the previous case, remove the balls located on the bushing, just do not confuse them with those that were removed earlier (these balls are smaller in diameter). After removing the balls, you need to insert a screwdriver into the sleeve and push out the firing pin.

In this case, the firing pin is intact. But if it is broken, then replace it with a new one. You should also pay attention to the rubber seals and seals in the barrel body. If they are worn out, they must be replaced.

Pistol type hammer drills

The design of the impact mechanism in a pistol-type unit is slightly different from the same-purpose mechanism installed in a barrel-type unit.

Its main difference is that the piston is driven not by a connecting rod, but by a swinging (“drunk”) bearing. Therefore, the most common breakdown of this unit is the wear of a “drunk” bearing that needs to be replaced.

The next photo shows a destroyed “drunk” bearing, which is the reason why the hammer drill stopped hammering.

The swing bearing is removed using a flat screwdriver, which you need to pick up the bracket and remove it. After this, the bearing is easily separated from the gearbox housing.

When replacing a collapsed bearing, you should thoroughly rinse the gearbox, since it is in its housing that fragments of the broken part may remain.

After cleaning and installing a new bearing, apply a thick layer of lubricant to this block.

Also, the reason that the device does not hit can be a broken firing pin. To get it out, you need to remove the retaining ring that is visible in the hole.

Take a small screwdriver, pick up the ring with it, and move it to the right (towards the gear).

Do the same steps on the other side of the part. Next, insert a screwdriver into the hole in the part and push through the removed internal parts of the mechanism.

After this action, you can easily get the locking ring and the housing in which the broken striker is located.

If you disassemble this case, you will see the “culprit” of the malfunction, due to which the hammer drill does not hammer.

When assembling the impact mechanism, be sure to generously apply lubricant to all parts.

How and with what to lubricate a hammer drill: lubricants for 6 brands

A hammer drill is useful if you need to make a hole in the wall, make a “track” for wires, and for other construction issues. The instrument will faithfully serve its owner if you do not forget to take care of it.

Elements such as a drill, gearbox, and cartridge require periodic treatment with special means. How and with what to lubricate different types of hammer drills? Here are the answers and nuances of processing electrical devices produced by 6 well-known brands.

Design Features

Such power tools are barrel and straight, mechanical and pneumatic, and depending on the size - light, medium and heavy.

• core;
• Boer;
• striker;
• piston;
• cylinder;
• electromagnetic coil.

There are differences in details depending on the type of device. And that's not all the details on the list. So how does a hammer drill, a useful device in construction, work? The units, in addition to the above parts, are equipped with:

In addition, such tools have a variety of indicators and speed controllers. Having understood the nuances of the construction of this construction tool, it’s time to move on to lubricating its individual elements.

What parts should I lubricate and with what?

To begin with, it is worth understanding that one lubricant, no matter how universal it is, cannot indiscriminately process all parts. One type of lubricant is suitable only for the gearbox, the other for drills and drills. Each device, for example PBH 2100 RE or GBH 2-24 DRE, is supplied with instructions for use, which describe the frequency of lubrication of parts.

Before starting the lubrication procedure, you need to clean and blow out the power tool, and then wipe it dry.

What to process and with what:

1. Gearbox . To the question: what should you use to lubricate the gearbox of a household or professional hammer drill, the answer is the following – with a composition in the form of liquid oil. The substance is simply poured in certain quantities into a specially designated place in the shell of the device. Oil fills the gearbox housing, and during operation, all its parts are covered with a uniform layer of lubricant. If the power tool does not have a special hole and you need to disassemble it in order to lubricate the gearbox, it is better to contact a specialist.
2. Bur . It must be lubricated before each installation in the cartridge. How to lubricate a hammer drill? All grooves of the nozzle are treated with a small amount of the product. The instructions for the devices usually indicate the type and amount of lubricant that can be used to process the drill.
3. Patron . The tails of replaceable drill bits must also be processed each time before installation. The amount of the drug should be strictly the same as indicated in the instructions, no more and no less. How and with what should I lubricate the hammer drill chuck (a special attachment that is used to securely hold the drill), for example, HR2470 or any other? Drilling lubricant just needs to be applied to the tail of the drill, and then insert it into the chuck socket. And after removing the nozzle, it must be cleaned of dust and recycled oil.

How to lubricate the hammer drill piston? Each manufacturer has its own lubricant for the piston system. It's best to use the original one.

Other mechanical breakdowns and their elimination

In addition to breakdowns associated with the impact mechanism, other mechanical breakdowns may also occur in the hammer drill.

Mode switch

There are times when the unit mode switch fails. Basically, this occurs due to dust clogging of this unit. To repair the switch, you will need to disconnect it from the body (see how to do this above) and clean it from dirt. If you find any damage to the plastic parts of the switch, it will have to be replaced.

Helical gears

The reason that the device stopped working normally, namely, stopped drilling and chiseling, may lie in worn-out teeth on the rotor shaft.

If this happens, the teeth on the intermediate helical gear will also be worn.

This problem occurs when the tool is jammed or the clutch is malfunctioning. The breakdown is eliminated by replacing the intermediate gear and engine rotor.

The drill does not stay in the chuck

The reason that the hammer drill does not hold the drill lies in the breakage of the chuck and the wear of its constituent parts:

• deformation of the balls occurred;
• the restrictor ring is worn out;
• The retaining spring gave way.

You will need to disassemble the cartridge and replace problematic parts.

Drill stuck in hammer drill

The reasons that the drill is stuck in the chuck of the device may be the following.

1. Before installing the equipment, you did not apply lubricant to its shank. You will need to move the sealing rubber of the cartridge and inject WD-40 into the place where the tool fits.
2. Dust got under the balls. Perform the same operation as in the paragraph above.
3. If you used a regular drill inserted into an adapter in a hammer drill, then also treat it with WD-40, wait a couple of minutes, and, lightly tapping the clamp surface with a hammer, loosen the equipment in different directions. Typically, after these steps, the clamping jaws open and allow the drill to be removed.
4. The tool shank came loose. You will need to first add WD-40 and try to remove the drill. If nothing works, then you need to disassemble the cartridge and knock out the equipment. You can also use tips on how to remove a tool stuck in the device from this video.

Replacing and repairing a cartridge

Failures of the SDS chuck are usually expressed either in the inability to insert the drill shank, or in its flight during operation. The locking mechanism is ridiculously simple and most breakdowns can be fixed literally “on your knees”.

To disassemble the cartridge, you need to pick up and remove the rubber boot in the front part. Having pulled the glass towards you, as when inserting a drill, you should remove the locking ring from the barrel fitting and remove the crimp coupling along with the spring. Don't forget to carefully remove two small balls from the grooves.

The conical inside of the sleeve presses the balls into the slots when the drill is to be locked and allows them to move freely when the sleeve is pulled back. As a rule, the reason for spontaneous flight of the drill is grinding of the balls or the inner surface of the sleeve. Replacement parts can be assembled with a new cartridge; the balls for SDS-Plus have a diameter of 6.9 mm and can be removed from a regular bearing.

Jamming and the inability to insert the drill can also be a result of grinding parts, but this is often caused by coking of the cartridge with dried lubricant or foreign objects getting inside. In any case, further operation of the tool in this condition leads to breaking of the seating grooves already on the drill shanks, and the problems described above may continue to occur even with a fully functional chuck. The cause of most breakdowns is immediately visible during disassembly and cleaning.

Diold rotary hammer repair

Troubleshooting Diold rotary hammers is not an easy process. It should be carried out by service departments using high-tech equipment and accumulated experience. A hammer drill is a device with a large number of different moving and rotating elements. The tool has three modes - drilling, chiselling and drilling with chiselling. The resource directly depends on after-sales service, timely repair of problems, as well as compliance with standards for storing and operating the tool.

Repair of all types of Diold rotary hammers should be done immediately after identifying violations in the stability of operation.

Do-it-yourself Diold PRE5 repair

When a tool breaks, the owner first tries to find the cause of the breakdown. We have to remember the operating conditions, and it turns out that many violate the standards for using the tool. For example, they use a Diold hammer drill with excessive force, during network failures and other difficult conditions, and this mode leads to failure of the tool. Damage is divided into the following:

1. Electrical. The device does not work: it sparks inside the case, the speed controller does not work, and the machine knocks out during operation.
2. Mechanical. The chiselling function does not work: there is a crackling or grinding sound, modes do not switch, lubricating fluids leak out of the device.

The first step is proper disassembly of the device. The Diold PRE5 model has special features in its device. What all rotary hammers have in common is that the body is made of two parts. These are the front and rear halves on the chuck side. The housing is tightened with screws. Repair of the Diold PRE5 tool has characteristic breakdowns, like the PRE7 model. These include the armature, gears, brushes, bearings, switches, starters, and network cable. PRE5 belongs to the light class, so it can be repaired better.

Barrel perforator Diold PRE-4 (Diold PR-4/850)

• Manufacturer: Diold
• Article: Diold PRE-4
• In stock: In stock

Model features

• Description
• Reviews (3)

Manual electric hammer drill Diold PRE-4 (PR-4/850)

850 Watt / 3 J / 700 rpm min / 4000 beats min / 5.3 - 8.2 kg Release safety clutch Easy access to carbon brushes Durable plastic case with reliable fasteners Drill chuck and SDS+ adapter included Universal accessories (3 drills, picks, chisel, lubricant, boot, brushes) Reliable barrel hammer drill designed for continuous work under load Art. PR-4/850 - with vibration-damping handle Art. PRE 4 - safety glasses and gloves included

Purpose:

The manual electric hammer drill PRE-4 is designed for operation in shock-rotational and impact modes. Impact-rotational mode is designed to create holes in concrete, brick and other building materials. The impact mode is intended for chiseling concrete, brick and other similar materials.

Main parameters:

Rated power consumption - 850 Watt; Supply voltage - 220 V ± 10% Volt; Mains frequency - 50 ± 5% Hertz; The maximum diameter of drilling holes is 30 mm; Working tool clamping system - SDS - plus Nominal speed of the working spindle at idle speed - 700 rpm; The nominal number of blows at idle is 4000 beats/min; Impact energy - 3.5 Joules; Electric motor type - single-phase, commutator with double insulation Operating mode according to GOST 183-74 - S 1 (continuous); Hammer class according to GOST 12.2.013.0-91 – II; Weight without additional handle and power cord - 5.3 kg; Overall dimensions (without additional handle, power cord, chuck) - 390 x 92 x 250 mm; The service life declared by the manufacturer is at least five years.

Case dimensions: 11x38x43 cm. Total weight of the tool in the case with accessories: 8.2 kg.

Contents of delivery:

Manual electric hammer drill PRE-4; Additional handle; Depth gauge; Transition cartridge; Drills 6, 8, 10 mm; The chisel is flat; The chisel is pointed; Dust ring; Key; Tube with lubricant; Manual; Case - (See photo).

Recommendations for using the product:

The hammer drill is intended for operation in temperate climate areas, version UHL, placement category 3.1 according to GOST 15150-69. The hammer drill is designed to operate under the following operating conditions: the environment surrounding the hammer drill is non-explosive; no drops or splashes, ambient temperature from minus 15 ° C to plus 35 ° C; the upper value of relative ambient humidity is 80% at 25 ° C; It is recommended to store the hammer drill in a dry, heated and ventilated room.

Characteristic advantages of the model:

UNIVERSAL PERFORATOR-CHAMPER – “PROFI” WILL PERFORM ANY HARD JOB VIBRATION-DAMPING HANDLE RICH EQUIPMENT IN THE CASE

Manual electric hammer drill Diold PRE-7 (PR-7/1000)

1000 Watt / 3.5 J. / 4000 beats. min / 5.9-8.6 kg. BARREL-pro for extreme loads Case with glasses, gloves and accessories Ratchet safety clutch Easy access to brushes Drill chuck and SDS+ adapter included Durable plastic case with metal fasteners Set of accessories (3 drills, picks, chisel, lubricant, boot, brushes)

Purpose:

The manual electric hammer drill PRE-7 is designed for operation in shock-rotational and impact modes. Impact-rotational mode is designed to create holes in concrete, brick and other building materials. The impact mode is intended for chiseling concrete, brick and other similar materials.

Main parameters:

Rated power consumption - 1000 Watt; Supply voltage - 220 V ± 10% Volt; Mains frequency - 50 ± 5% Hertz; The maximum diameter of drilling holes is 30 mm; Working tool clamping system - SDS - plus Nominal speed of the working spindle at idle speed - 700 rpm; The nominal number of blows at idle is 4000 beats/min; Impact energy - 3.5 Joules; Electric motor type - single-phase, commutator with double insulation Operating mode according to GOST 183-74 - S 1 (continuous); Hammer class according to GOST 12.2.013.0-91 – II; Tool weight: 5.9 kg; Overall dimensions (without additional handle, power cord, chuck) - 390 x 92 x 250 mm; The service life declared by the manufacturer is at least five years. Case dimensions: 11x38x43 cm. Total weight of the tool in the case with accessories: 8.6 kg.

Contents of delivery:

Manual electric hammer drill PRE-7; Additional handle; Depth gauge; Transition cartridge; Drills 6, 8, 10, 12 mm; The chisel is flat; The chisel is pointed; Dust ring; Strobnik; Key; Tube with lubricant; Manual; Case - (See photo).

Recommendations for using the product:

The hammer drill is intended for operation in temperate climate areas, version UHL, placement category 3.1 according to GOST 15150-69. The hammer drill is designed to operate under the following operating conditions: the environment surrounding the hammer drill is non-explosive; no drops or splashes, ambient temperature from minus 15 ° C to plus 35 ° C; the upper value of relative ambient humidity is 80% at 25 ° C; It is recommended to store the hammer drill in a dry, heated and ventilated room.

Repair Diold PRE7

Breakdowns of equipment of a heavier class are much more difficult to eliminate, and they can mainly be done by professionals.

PRE7 problems can arise due to windings in the electrical system. This may happen due to dust ingress. Repair in this case will involve cleaning and replacing parts that cannot be repaired. Prevention is one of the methods of eliminating possible problems.

The second breakdown is wear of the brushes, in which case you need to disassemble the hammer drill, find the worn parts and install new ones.

There are also problems with mechanics. Basically, these are problems with the mode switch. The same procedure applies here - disassembling the tool, finding the broken mechanism and replacing it. The main thing is to find the necessary spare parts in stores that will fit the PRE7. Cartridges are also susceptible to the “disease” of overloads. To repair, you need to disassemble the hammer drill and replace the broken cartridge with a new one.

How to disassemble a hammer drill

Disassemble the hammer drill sequentially. Inspect all details carefully. Even if you are looking for a problem in one unit, you may find damaged parts in other units. When disassembling the tool, the body should be cleaned of dust and dirty grease.

How to disassemble a cartridge and remove stuck equipment

Start by disassembling the cartridge so that it does not interfere with the removal of the gearbox housing.

1. Remove rubber boot 1, retaining ring 2 and plastic boot 3.
2. Next, be careful, as there is a ball in the grooves of the sleeve under the fixing washer 4. He might jump out.
3. Carefully remove washer 4, locking plate 5, spring 6 and ball 7. Depending on the chuck model, there may also be rings, washers and balls.

If a drill or other equipment cannot be pulled out of the chuck, there are two options for solving this problem:

• Clamp the tool in a vice. Slightly shake the hammer drill and pull it towards you;
• Clamp the hammer drill in a vice through the rubber gaskets so as not to damage the plastic housing. Clamp the end of the equipment with a gas wrench. Tap the key with a hammer in the direction of the axis of the tool.

The second option is used as a last resort. If after several blows the drill or chisel cannot be pulled out, stop. You may damage the hammer drill. Disassemble the cartridge and gearbox. Try to knock out the equipment with a drift. After this procedure, the raster sleeve will most likely need to be replaced. To avoid this problem in the future, lubricate the end of the equipment.

How to remove the mode switch

In some models of hammer drills, the switch is removed by turning it to the extreme right, in others - to the extreme left. Consider the extreme right position.

1. Set the mode switch to strike. If there is no impact mode, use drilling impact.
2. Press the button in the switch and turn it just below the stroke until it clicks.
3. Pull it towards you, pry it with a screwdriver and remove it.

Disassembly of the electrical part of the hammer drill

1. Unscrew and remove the back cover.
2. Unscrew the bolts securing the power cord.
3. Remove the button and wires from their grooves.
4. Disconnect the wires from the stator.
5. Unscrew the brush holder bolts and remove the brushes.
6. Clean the housing from dust.
7. Unscrew the bolts connecting the electrical housing to the gearbox housing. Separate both housings with a screwdriver.
8. The rotor is connected to the gearbox through a shaft and can be easily removed from it. Remove the bearings from the armature using a puller.
9. Remove the air intake from the electrical housing.
10. Unscrew the stator from the housing. Take a piece of wood and knock gently on the ribs of the housing, and the stator will begin to come out.

Analysis of the mechanical part of the hammer drill

1. Remove the plastic gear housing. You will see an aluminum housing with a fixed bearing, an intermediate shaft, and a raster bushing inserted into it.
2. Carefully clean the plastic housing of the gearbox, because pieces from the collapsed bearing remain in it. Take a magnet and go through all the holes to remove all the balls and metal shards. Clean out the grease completely. There may be pieces of plastic separator left in it.
3. Remove the intermediate shaft from the worn bearing.
4. To remove the helical gear, remove the retaining ring and bearing using a special puller.
5. To dismantle the spur gear, you need to remove the retaining ring and spring at the other end of the shaft.
6. Remove the bushing from the sleeve.
7. Remove the sleeve from the aluminum housing.
8. There is a firing pin inside the cartridge case. It is pulled out with a bent rigid wire.

The main malfunctions of a rotary hammer and their external signs

Depending on the operating conditions, this device may experience problems both mechanically and electrically.

The hammer drill circuit is quite close to an electric drill. One of the differences is that instead of an ordinary gear pair transmitting torque to the tool, a full-fledged gearbox is mounted in the hammer drill. It is designed to convert the torque generated by an electric motor into reciprocating motion of the chuck.

Problems requiring repair can occur in almost any part of the device. But before starting repairs, it is necessary to diagnose the breakdown and identify the reasons that led to its occurrence.

It should be noted that identifying a breakdown is not particularly difficult, but sometimes you have to disassemble the hammer housing to do this.

Like any technical device, an electric hammer drill has some weak points in its design. They are the cause of breakdowns that require repair. There are frequent cases when a hammer drill fails due to the fault of a worker who operates it at extreme conditions and in violation of operating rules.

It is necessary to understand that the main faults arise in the electrical or mechanical parts. The most common mechanical problems that occur are:

• the device does not perform its main functions - drilling and drilling;
• jamming of the drill in the chuck;
• the nozzle is not installed in the chuck;
• extraneous noise when the device is operating.

The following defects most often appear in electrical systems:

• the engine does not work;
• excessive sparking of brushes;
• the appearance of burning or the smell of burnt insulation.

The repair begins with cleaning the device body. This is necessary, at a minimum, to prevent dirt from getting into the disassembled hammer drill.

Possible malfunctions, causes of their occurrence and solutions

To repair a rotary hammer with your own hands, you must first determine the external manifestations of malfunctions.

The hammer drill does not hit

If the hammer stops hitting when switching to impact mode, but the drill rotates, it is most likely that the floating bearing is damaged. The solution to the problem is to replace it with a new one.

The second possible reason is a malfunction of the striking mechanism. Often, when overloaded in work, the steel striker splits, this leads first to a weakening of the impact, and then to its complete absence. The firing pin needs to be replaced.

The third probable reason is wear or breakage of the piston group of the hammer drill. The liner and piston should be replaced.

The hammer drill does not spin and does not drill

If the chuck does not rotate when you press the start button in drilling mode, the cause can first be determined by the sound. If the electric motor hums but does not turn the chuck, most likely something is preventing the rotor from rotating inside the gearbox. What happened to the engine will have to be found out by disassembling the mechanical part of the tool.

If the engine does not hum when turned on, it is more likely that the motor has failed. Having opened the lid of the device, it is necessary to determine what exactly led to this phenomenon. This could be an open circuit, a broken start button, or a short circuit in the coil windings. Using the tester, the specific cause is determined and appropriate repairs are made.

The drill does not stay in the chuck and flies out

Incontinence of the hammer drill equipment can occur during long-term use. The drill or chisel inserted into the chuck does not hold and flies out during operation. It is not only impossible to continue chiseling with such a tool, it is also very dangerous - a flying chisel can cause injury.

The reason for equipment incontinence lies in wear or breakage of the cartridge. The cartridge needs to be disassembled and determined what the problem is. Perhaps the balls have become deformed, wear has appeared on the restrictor ring, or the retaining spring has sagged. Usually, after replacing the damaged part, the cartridge begins to function normally again.

Video: why drills fly out of a hammer drill

The brushes sparkle

Sparking brushes is a fairly common phenomenon when working with tools in dusty conditions. As a rule, sparking is a consequence of the deterioration of the material of the brushes themselves. Replacing the latter with new ones will help correct the situation; sparks will no longer fly out.

If not, the reason must be sought in the stator or rotor windings. It is possible that the large amount of dust entering the motor has caused the protective varnish covering the copper conductors to wear away. And this entails a short circuit. The presence of an interturn short circuit is checked using electrical instruments (multimeter).

The resistance between the lamellas is measured with a multimeter

In addition, it should be taken into account that dust may adhere to the lubricant of the bearing located next to the commutator. To prevent this, the collector is degreased using a swab soaked in alcohol or solvent.

The hammer drill gets very hot

If the hammer drill gets excessively hot during operation, this is a clear sign of a malfunction of the electric motor. First of all, to prevent overheating, you must observe the operating mode of the device:

• take breaks at certain intervals;
• After loading, give the tool the opportunity to idle.

When drilling, it is recommended to use a periodic mode: apply maximum power for no more than 1 minute, then turn on idle for 3-4 seconds.

If the housing temperature does not decrease, then you need to inspect the electric motor. If you notice a characteristic odor coming from under the tool casing, you must immediately stop working and disconnect the device from the network. You can disassemble it only after it has completely cooled down.

The hammer drill does not hold the chuck

Sometimes there is a situation when the cartridge flies off along with the equipment while the hammer drill is running. This occurs due to wear of the chuck body mount at the end of the raster sleeve, which is a retaining ring. If it breaks, the fixation is broken and during the push the rubber boot flies off, followed by the spring and balls.

You can restore normal operation of the cartridge by installing a new locking ring. This is done quickly and does not require any additional equipment other than a regular screwdriver.

Mechanical breakdowns

When repairing an electric hammer drill, there is often a need to disassemble it. But before you start, you need to make sure once again that the problems arose in the mechanical part of the device. We will analyze in detail what problems occur and how they can be eliminated.

Malfunctions in the gearbox

Untimely maintenance, poorly performed repairs, or operating a hammer drill in extreme conditions can lead to the failure of any part that is part of this mechanism. To identify defects in the gearbox, it is necessary to disassemble it, wash the parts and then perform a thorough inspection of them.

Identified damaged parts must be replaced with new ones. Then assemble the gearbox; of course, you need to put lubricant in it. By the way, the brand of lubricant should be indicated in the instruction manual.

Chuck malfunction

If the nozzle does not enter the working position, then most likely the reason lies in the cartridge. To eliminate this defect there is no need to disassemble the instrument. As a rule, obstacles to installing the nozzle are due to the fact that some debris has gotten inside the cartridge.

The mode switch is faulty

To identify malfunctions in the mode switching device, the hammer drill will still have to be disassembled. In principle, the defect can be identified by carefully inspecting the switching mechanism.

Mode switch repair

In principle, the main components in which breakdowns most often occur and require repair are listed. Meanwhile, there are several other types of defects that can arise for various reasons. For example, there is no impact hammer mode. That is, the drill rotates together with the chuck, but does not have an impact effect on the working surface. The most common cause in this case is a floating bearing. Another cause of this malfunction may be damage to the steel striker. In both cases, replacement of the defective part is required.

There are often cases when when you turn on the tool, the engine runs, but the chuck does not rotate. This happens most often because the gearbox is jammed. By the way, keeping the hammer on for a long time is unacceptable when the chuck is not working, as the motor winding may burn out. The hammer drill will have to be disassembled and defects in the gearbox eliminated. They can be caused either by damage to the gears or by debris getting into it.

Another defect is that the chuck cannot lock the drill. This problem can occur with a tool that has been in use for a long time. The cause of this problem lies in the wear of the fastener housing.

Tips for disassembling and assembling a rotary hammer

To eliminate tool defects at home, our client only has to do the following steps:

If during a visual inspection of the hammer drill you do not see any damage, then the next step is to disassemble it.

1. It is required to remove the switch lever as closely as possible, since incorrect disassembly is associated with the breakage of fragile parts.
2. The rubber cap is disconnected, which is changed from time to time to protect the barrel of the device.
3. If you have a collapsible cartridge, you need to proceed as follows:

• remove the brushes;
• unscrew the screws;
• remove the body;
• disassemble disintegrating spare parts and parts;
• make the following inspection;
• replace faulty parts and lubricate them.

Often tool chuck

disassembled, debugging or changing parts and spare parts, lubricating or cleaning.

Disassembly is created based on knowledge of cartridge designs. When an instrument is disassembled, the question always arises of how it can be reassembled. This is done according to the annotation explaining how to disassemble the device, exclusively in the reverse order.

Source

Electrical faults

Serious problems can also be caused by malfunctions associated with the electrical part of the hammer drill. By the way, a failure to operate can be caused by a trivial lack of voltage in the outlet.

By the way, troubleshooting should start with less. That is, you need to check the presence of power in the electrical network, the integrity of the wire and socket.

By and large, if an instrument does not show any signs of life, the likelihood is that it is the electrical part of the instrument that has failed. The main electrical defects include the following:

No voltage in the supply network, cable break

You can connect any electrical device to check. If there is voltage in the network, then it is necessary to check the integrity of the cable.

To identify this defect, inspect it, then, using a tester, ring it. To eliminate a cable break, you can either solder it or twist it. But it's best to replace it.

Start button malfunction

The cause of this defect may be simple oxidation of the contacts in the button. To check this assumption, it is necessary to dismantle the rear cover of the casing. If there are no visible signs of oxidation, it is advisable to use a tester. To correct this problem, you can clean the contacts, but it is better to replace the power button.

Erasing brushes

With prolonged and intensive use of a hammer drill, wear occurs on the brushes through which electric current flows to the motor. When worn too much, they begin to spark and a burning smell appears. The brush must be at least 8 mm long.

Once this and a smaller size are reached, they are replaced. The replacement procedure is quite simple and anyone can handle it, even if they are not familiar with the basics of electrical engineering.

Speed ​​controller failure

If this problem is detected, it is advisable to replace the entire assembly. But, in fairness, it should be noted that this defect does not occur often.

Motor malfunction

This is probably the worst defect that can happen to an electric tool. The user must understand that it is better not to repair the engine independently. For this purpose, there are specialized workshops equipped with all the necessary repair and diagnostic equipment.

When the engine is running, a certain layer of carbon deposits forms on the manifold. You can remove it yourself and then try to turn it on. If this operation does not help, then it is necessary to ring the armature and stator. There are certain requirements for winding resistance.

Repair of these components can only be carried out in an electrical workshop. It is permissible to perform this work at home, but only if you have special equipment and certain knowledge regarding the operation of the electric motor. This operation, performed at home, will significantly reduce the cost of repairing the rotary hammer as a whole.

Important! Repair of the device is carried out with the tool disconnected from the electrical network.

Troubleshooting

As noted, some problems can be identified immediately. The main thing is to understand in which part of the hammer drill the problem has arisen.

If you understand that the problem is in the electrical part, then be careful. Make sure that the hammer drill is de-energized, otherwise repairing such a tool is dangerous not only for it, but also for your health.

When the hammer refuses to turn on, the failure is electrical and you should check to see if the wires are broken. In this case, first determine where exactly the wire is broken, then replace it or shorten it at the break point.

If you load the hammer too much, the damping mechanism may burn out. Then you will have to replace all burnt parts.

If something sparkles inside, then most likely the problem is in the brushes. They either do not fit tightly to the anchor, or moisture got there and they began to oxidize. Then the best solution would be to replace them.

If water has already gotten onto the anchor, then you will have to carefully dry everything, but so as not to also spoil the winding. To do this, use a cotton swab and alcohol.

An additional sign of problems with brushes is the appearance of smoke. This means that these devices have worn out and the wires are in contact with the armature. In this case, the brushes should be replaced with new ones.

In addition, smoke may mean that there is a malfunction in the motor - it seizes, heats up, and this causes smoke. Faults in the mechanical part are in most cases determined by ear. Noise and grinding are the main signs of a problem in this part of the hammer drill. Fixing problems here is much easier and safer for your health.

The most common sign that a problem has occurred is a decrease in productivity. Often, it is because of a broken switch that the hammer drill stops hammering. It is worth replacing the power button for further work.

Another possible reason for deterioration in the level of performance may be contamination of the device. To fix the problem, you need to clean and lubricate the device.

In addition, problems often arise with the impact mechanism itself. But to determine the exact cause, it is necessary to examine the entire part, since the problem could be either in the drill or in the small iron ball inside the chuck. Therefore, to repair the impact mechanism, you should look for the cause in the entire mechanical part of the device.

Operating rules or how to protect the device from damage

To ensure long-term and efficient operation of an electric hammer drill, it is enough to follow a few simple rules. In particular:

• When working, it is not advisable to put too much pressure on the tool; at least this is not necessary, and moreover, with excessive pressure, the tool will fail faster.
• It is not permissible to operate the electric hammer drill in idle mode.
• When working with porous materials, it makes sense to turn off the impact mechanism. When working with particularly hard materials, it is advisable to use a lubricant.
• When working, especially for a long time, it is necessary to monitor the heating of the housing, especially in the place where the gearbox is installed. If there is noticeable heating, you must stop the work and wait until it cools down. Water cannot be used for cooling; its use may damage gearbox parts.
• Work with the tool should be carried out in the following mode - at least a 10-minute break after half an hour of work.

DIY repair

Repairing a rotary hammer with your own hands can only be partially done. But, for example, it is still better to perform such a unit as an electric motor in a special workshop.

It is best to carry out repairs in the warranty workshop of the company from which it was purchased.

To lubricate the hammer drill components, you must use only those materials recommended by the manufacturer.

Recommendations for using a rotary hammer

As you can see, repairing a rotary hammer with your own hands is a task that anyone can handle; the main thing is to understand the structure of this useful tool for household use and follow the instructions. And to reduce the likelihood of a breakdown to a minimum, you need to follow some rules:

• Before you start working with the tool, inspect it for chips or cracks in the body. If they are found, carry out repairs.
• Read the instructions and technical data sheet of the product and follow all recommendations for working with it.
• Use high-quality drill bits that are suitable for the specific type of material.
• If the amount of work that needs to be done is large, then it is necessary to take breaks to avoid overheating.
• After working with the tool, clean its surface from dirt and dust; you can also use a vacuum cleaner to blow it out.
• Observe storage conditions. The hammer drill must be located in a special place where moisture does not penetrate, as it can damage electrical parts.
• Carry out a complete disassembly, cleaning and lubrication of the tool on a regular basis once or twice a year.

By the way, the absence or lack of lubrication is a fairly common cause of hammer drill failure. The instructions for the device should indicate which places and parts need to be lubricated and which not.

It is important to know that for gearboxes liquid lubricant must be used, which must be poured into a hole specially designed for this; for other parts, a thicker lubricant can be used

By following these simple rules, the tool will serve for a long time, and the risk of malfunctions will be minimized. But if any malfunction does appear, then, following the recommendations above, you can eliminate it without difficulty.

Drum perforator repair

A barrel hammer differs from a traditional one in that the electric motor is located vertically and cannot operate in drilling mode.

Barrel hammer drill SDS-plus Intertool DT-0182

Therefore, due to the design features, in order to get to certain components, additional operations will have to be performed, in particular, to inspect the electric motor, it is necessary to remove the lower part of the casing or cover. And for replacing brushes, special technological holes are provided in the body.

Replacing the power button

To replace this button, you will have to disassemble the case, disconnect it and install a new one in its original place.

Replacing brushes

To replace brushes, it is necessary to provide access to the brush assembly. To replace, you need to release the brushes from the lock and install new ones in their place.

Replacing bearings

If extraneous sounds are heard when the hammer drill is operating, then there is a high probability that the bearing has reached a certain degree of wear. That is, it needs to be replaced.

To do this, it is necessary to completely or partially disassemble the housing and gain access to the unit in which it is installed. A puller may be required to remove it. By the way, some bearings can be secured using retaining rings.

Replacing the cartridge

To replace a cartridge that has expired, you must first take into account which company produced this product. The thing is that the cartridge mounting schemes of different manufacturers have their own characteristics.

Replacing a chuck on a rotary hammer

For example, to dismantle the chuck in a Bosch rotary hammer, you need to do the following manipulations - loosen the locking ring, pull out the chuck and install a new one in its place.

Drunk bearing repair

In some models of this tool, the impact is achieved using a bearing. During intensive use, it may be destroyed.

To repair it, you will need a flathead screwdriver. After disassembling the housing, the bearing must be removed from the housing, disassembled, worn parts replaced and reinstalled.

Repair of raster bushing and impact bolt

To repair the impact mechanism of the hammer drill, it is necessary to remove the raster bushing; to do this, it is necessary to release the spring and the locking ring. After this, the impact bolt is replaced with a new one, or sent for restoration.

How to properly disassemble a tool chuck

First you need to find the type of hammer drill chuck installed in the device. Different models are equipped with different chucks, which of course are collet SDS, quick release and cam. If there is a cam chuck, a key is used to secure the drill, which is not available in collet and quick-release chucks.

The procedure for disassembling a rotary hammer is: knock on the head of the screw to loosen it, unscrew the screw with a screwdriver, clamp the chuck in a vice and turn the spindle.

When starting to change the cartridge, be sure to study the method of fastening the part. Fastening can be done using spindles or helical rods. With a very strong fixation, it is unrealistic not to use additional equipment.

As a usual method of changing, many people get by with a hammer, screwdriver or wrench. When disassembling the tool chuck , perform the following types of actions:

1. To loosen the screw, tap on its head.
2. You need to unscrew the screw using a screwdriver.
3. The chuck is clamped in a vice and the spindle is turned.