Do-it-yourself universal key made from a chain and a bolt

Dear visitors of the site “ Samade Friend ”, from the material presented you will learn how to make a universal key yourself from a bicycle chain, a bolt and three nuts with your own hands. Step-by-step photos of assembling the wrench are presented and so off we go... Many of you have probably encountered such a problem... when the edges on a nut or bolt being turned off are a little knocked off and a regular wrench simply turns without performing its function. This can be solved with the help of a homemade chain wrench that works in compression, that is, the stronger the handle of the key, the stronger the chain will be clamped and thereby unscrew even the most eaten nut or bolt.

To make a universal key you will need a piece of a bicycle chain, two nuts and a bolt. We screw the nuts onto the bolt and weld a piece of chain to them so that we get a grip and weld it to the other side of the nuts. Next, we put the chain on the nut or bolt that needs to be unscrewed and tighten the bolt, thereby tensioning the chain, everything can be unscrewed)

Materials

Tools

Step-by-step instructions for assembling a universal key with your own hands.

And so, the necessary parts to assemble the key. Two nuts are screwed onto the bolt. We measure the chain, namely how much is needed from nut to nut. We make a mark in the place where the chain should be riveted. We clamp the chain in a vice and cut off the rivets using a grinder. We knock out the rivets. Next, the chain is welded first to one nut. Then it is tensioned and welded on the other side of the nut. Scale and excess metal are removed using an angle grinder (grinder). Then unscrew the bolt and loosen the chain to the required diameter. We insert the nut and tighten the bolt along the threads, thereby tensioning the chain and clamping the resulting connection. Let's test the key in action. We consolidate the material covered by watching the video. Enjoy watching)

Other replacement options

The men used a variety of available tools instead of the usual wrench.

Pliers

Simple and reliable - tested more than once. Using pliers incorrectly is simply impossible! Grab yourself tightly and twist!

adjustable wrench

Of course, if a master finds himself in such a situation, he may well have an adjustable wrench.

You will only need to adjust it so that the fastener being unscrewed is firmly grasped by the jaws of the key.

Files

Two files will do the job. Their canvases at one edge must be securely secured with wire, tape, a suitable ring, etc.

After this, the files are placed on both sides of the fastener. This is done so that the nut is approximately in the middle of the blades. Holding both handles of the file at the same time, they begin to unscrew.

Small vise

An option familiar to handicraft craftsmen who have small vices. The nut is secured in a vice and then unscrewed.

Calipers

Another alternative option is a caliper. They operate similarly to the options already described.

It is important not to forget about your own safety! If the caliper comes off the fastener, it can cause injury. Sometimes men risk performing the necessary action even with the help of large scissors

They clamp the nut with the handles of scissors

Sometimes men risk performing the necessary action even with the help of large scissors. They clamp the nut with the handles of scissors.

We do not think that this operation should be repeated. Especially if you do not have such experience and you do not feel confident in performing the procedure.

Wooden strip and nylon tape

Not the most traditional way, but why not try it if you don’t have anything more suitable at hand.

A nylon rope (at least 15 cm will be needed) is tied tightly in the middle of the wooden plank. The free edge of the nylon begins to be wound around the nut. Twist the rope until it ends. Now unscrew the bar. Together with it and the nylon, the fasteners will move from place.

When should you change your bicycle chain?

How to make a gate lock with your own hands: advantages of locking mechanisms, recommendations from an installation expert
Good lubrication for the bicycle chain can significantly increase the service life of the entire system responsible for movement. At the same time, you need to be able to notice the moments when it begins to need maintenance or repair.

Excessive wear on a bicycle chain not only causes constant discomfort while riding, but also causes active deformation of the chainrings. If a worn chain is left unattended for a long period of time, it is guaranteed to lead to the need to replace a whole set of expensive mechanisms.

In order to assess its condition as objectively as possible, it is necessary to look not at the mileage, but first of all to measure the length of all its links. The chain length in normal condition is approximately 305 mm. The reason for its replacement is its stretching to 308 mm or more.

Design and method of use of the cup puller

How to make a lock for a gate with your own hands?

This type of puller is available for filters of all sizes, but each individual tool is designed to unscrew filters of only one diameter. Therefore, when buying a cup you need to be especially careful. This key should ideally match the filters installed on the car engine. Even a difference of a few millimeters will turn the cup into a useless accessory.

Auto repair shop owners immediately purchase entire sets of these pullers, including up to 30 wrenches for filters of various diameters. Such sets are supplied with a suitcase in which the cups are conveniently arranged by size numbers.

Set of cup wrenches for removing oil cleaners

The “cup” oil filter pullers have a square hole in their “bottom” for the tip of a socket wrench. Some manufacturers additionally make a hexagonal “bottom” - for a spanning tool. Many pullers, primarily their sets, are supplied with a tip for the “cup” hole, onto which the key is placed, and some are complete with all the necessary tools, including a socket and socket.

The “cup” puller is placed on the ribbed top of the filter with a wide open part, on the inner circumference of which there are edges. They must match in number and size with those available on the purifier. Otherwise, the puller will not fit tightly, and unscrewing the filter will be difficult or impossible. The “cup” is considered the most convenient tool. It itself is compact and, as a rule, it is easier to “crawl” into the filter. Moreover, a correctly selected “cup” never slips relative to the circumference of the filter housing, which sometimes happens with some other types of pullers.

Complete set of bicycle repair tools

An avid cyclist will not get by with a standard repair kit. It is necessary to add more tools to the kit, allowing you to completely repair any breakdowns yourself, as well as improve the quality of the bike. Additional tools include:

extended set of keys;
pullers;
mounting blades;
wire cutters;
hydraulic set;
strain gauge;
caliber;
stands.

Now in more detail about each element.

Additional keys

If your bike model has ball bearings, cone wrenches will be a must-have. They are needed for timely cleaning of bushings.

To remove the pedal, a specially shaped wrench is used. It is ideal for road bike models with little clearance between pedal and crank.

Flat and Phillips screwdrivers that are universal for various jobs are also useful.

Bicycle pullers

In order to remove the connecting rod, it is worth purchasing a square puller. Before buying a tool, make sure that the connecting rod is attached using the “square” system. Typically, higher-end bikes may have a different mount and not require a special puller.

Carriage pullers are used to remove the cups that secure the carriage to the bike. Depending on the bicycle model, you need to select a carriage puller with a different spline head diameter.

An important purchase will be a ratchet remover. This is a must-have tool, since disconnecting the ratchet using other methods is quite problematic. The tool is a splined head

The tool is a splined head.

There is also a special cassette remover. To make working with it easier, it is recommended to buy a special whip in the kit.

Wire cutters

Wire cutters are used to repair gear shift cables. Wire cutters have a special advantage over a knife or other tools in the set that can be used for this purpose. They can be used to gently cut through the cable without deforming it. The edges will not be fluffy and the cable will last for a long time.

Stands

In order to independently and easily repair bicycles, it is worth acquiring two stands. You need to take care of buying a rack on which you can put the bike

It will also be important to purchase a special small stand for wheels, which is convenient for straightening the spokes

How to unscrew it if it's stuck?

How to make a vibrating table for paving slabs with your own hands

I’ll tell you a few ways that will 100% help you unscrew this element, so here we go:

Trite with your hands. Often you just don’t have enough strength, just call a “more powerful” person and everything can work out. I will say this in 80% of cases they unscrew it by hand. YES, and you need to tighten it again with your hands, tightly! IT'S ENOUGH!

Special key. I already wrote about it once, you can read it here, of course it’s not always at hand, but if you have a friend with a car, he can drive to almost any spare parts store and buy it. I personally even saw it in several supermarkets, the cost is a penny, about 200 - 300 rubles. Everything with it is quite easy and simple, we hook it on and unscrew it, of course, the body of the element will get wrinkled, but actually we don’t need it anymore.

Rope and screwdriver (another lever). Sometimes they also use an old alternator or timing belt. What we do is twist a loop around the filter, tighten it with a screwdriver, tightly. And we try to unscrew it. The main thing is that the rope or belt does not slip.

Next come barbaric but effective methods. The most important thing is that they are dirty, that is, you will get dirty in oil anyway, if you are not afraid, then they are for you.

A hammer and a long, strong screwdriver. Actually, this method is used to unscrew most intractable filter elements. Since the walls of the element are soft, they are usually aluminum, or tin, and other soft metals. It breaks through very easily (just like a tin can). What we do is drive a long and strong screwdriver all the way through, that is, so that it goes in on one side and comes out on the other. And then we unscrew it like a lever. The most important thing is that everything can be done without a special key, and actually using those tools that are always in the garage. The only downside is that your hands are dirty, because some of the oil is always inside.

Hammer and chisel. This is generally the method that they say “ATAS”, there is nothing to explain here, we take a chisel and “fuck” it with a hammer, the most important thing is to hit closer to the bottom, to the place of fastening, and counterclockwise. The case, of course, will be all dented, but the most important thing is to unscrew it. The downside here is not only that you can get dirty, but also that you can hit the engine block with a chisel. I personally recommend the method with a screwdriver, it is still less dangerous.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated, you can do without a special key, just pierce the housing with a screwdriver.

Now we are watching a short video.

And that’s all for me, read our AUTOBLOG.

(17 votes, average: 3.94 out of 5)

Method 1: Using a strong, sharp screwdriver and hammer

This is the simplest of all possible options.

The principle is as follows:

Take a large flat screwdriver and use it to punch a through hole in the filter housing (the metal is thin, so this can be done with almost one blow).
Next, you need to grab the handle of the screwdriver and apply force in a counterclockwise direction. Due to the increase in the force arm, the filter breaks off quite easily, after which it can be unscrewed by hand.

Please note that the oil can remain hot for a long time, so safety precautions must be observed.

Design Features

The simplicity of the chain wrench design makes it very convenient and quite easy to use. Any of its models consists of a clamping mechanism and a handle. The clamping mechanism includes a chain and jaws bolted to the handle. The main element in the design of a chain wrench is, of course, a monolithic metal handle. At one end of its base there is a threshold that serves as a kind of support for the pipes. There are special notches on the threshold that prevent the held pipes from twisting. The next important element is the chain. During operation, it wraps around the entire diameter of the workpiece. The chain is attached to the base of the key with a clamp that allows it to hold the tension created.

Special jaws and an adjustable flexible chain provide the necessary fixation of the pipes.

Due to the absence of any fixed elements in the design of the key, it is possible to carry out work in confined spaces.

To use a chain wrench, it will be enough if there is a distance between the structural parts and the pipe equal to the thickness of the chain. In operation, the chain encircles the perimeter of the desired product, and the threshold in this case acts as a special obstacle when sliding. In turn, the lock that fixes the chain in a given position prevents the initial grip of the pipe from weakening. Due to the uniform distribution of applied forces over the area of the product, the risk of various deformations or damage is eliminated.

The principle of operation of a chain wrench is as follows: a chain attached to the handle is thrown over the pipe and tightened tightly, pressing the jaws directly into the material. Then, when force is applied (pressure on the end of the handle), the key turns in the required direction. At the same time, the serrated ends of the “cheeks” roll over the product, ensuring its maximum clamping with subsequent self-braking. The chain in this case acts as a fixing element. Usually it comes with a reserve and can be easily changed if necessary.

Working with a chain wrench is simple, but you should remember a few simple rules:

thoroughly clean the teeth of any debris that has gotten into them before and after finishing work;
the use of any spacer materials between the pipe and the chain is strictly prohibited;
You should not extend the wrench lever with additional pipe sections. This may break its handle.

This tool must be used with caution when working with parts with high finishing parameters or with thin-walled pipes. Significant compression can lead to abrasion of surfaces or collapse of the product. The main materials in the manufacture of chain wrenches are aluminum and steel

Keys made from high-strength steel will last a long time. To facilitate the design of the key, aluminum is additionally introduced into the composition, but this does not in any way affect the strength characteristics. Aluminum allows you to reduce the total weight of the key by an average of 40%. Aluminum is often used in the production of handles

The main materials used in the manufacture of chain wrenches are aluminum and steel. Keys made from high-strength steel will last a long time. To facilitate the design of the key, aluminum is additionally introduced into the composition, but this does not in any way affect the strength characteristics. Aluminum allows you to reduce the total weight of the key by an average of 40%. Aluminum is often used in the production of handles.

Chain key. Steel pipe clamp

Despite the fairly large variety in the construction market of tools for screwing or screwing together various pipe connections, experts pay special attention to the chain wrench. A chain wrench is a prominent representative of a hand-held plumbing tool designed for installation of pipes or fittings in hard-to-reach places. Such equipment allows you to work in conditions where the use of a standard adjustable or sponge wrench is impossible.

Tools

To work with the chain you will need a fairly extensive list of tools. The most important tool in this case will be a special chain riveter - such devices are produced by many companies, so finding one will be relatively easy. The cost of the tool varies between 1000-5000 rubles depending on the manufacturer and the grade of steel used. From some experienced craftsmen we hear that the riveter is successfully replaced with a hammer, chisel and core. This point of view is completely erroneous - it will not be possible to achieve a reliable connection of the chain with their help, and, most likely, it will soon break.

In addition, replacing sprockets and chain will require the following tools:

Torque wrench with comfortable handle;
Set of keys and sockets;
Compact grinder with a diamond blade for metal;
Lubricant, cleaner and chain cleaner.

It is better not to neglect the selection of high-quality tools, since it will be very unpleasant if during the work the key breaks in your hands and the motorcycle remains half disassembled. Remember that you will have to replace the chain regularly, so it is worth purchasing a quality set once and then using it for several years.

Chain bracelets, fashionable in 2019

One of the popular trends in jewelry today is the bracelet ring. The decoration consists of chains and consists of a ring and a bracelet connected to each other. The product looks stylish, sophisticated and harmonizes with almost all looks.

The ring can be made entirely of a chain, the bracelet can be made of the same material, and the connecting part should be decorated. Since it is the most decorative part. You can make this element from beads, beads and fishing line or connector.

Everyone knows how to make a bracelet from a chain, but not many will come up with such an unusual idea. And all you need is nothing! But what is the result?

Another option is to add more rings to one design, combining them all with one bracelet. That is, make 2 or 3 finger rings and 1 bracelet, decorating the jewelry with a connecting chain.

To avoid the question of how to make a lock on a bracelet chain, you also need to have all the necessary tools and materials. First of all, this is the clasp itself. It is better to use special locks (magnetic, screw or carabiners). Options 2 and 3 will be more reliable. To easily attach and secure fasteners, you will need pliers.

If you decide to create several jewelry from chains at once, do not try to combine them with each other later, uniqueizing your image. It will not look entirely aesthetically pleasing, rather even ridiculous. But alternately wearing earrings, a necklace and a bracelet will be an excellent opportunity to improve each of the looks.

Why disassemble the chain

Only a chain that is tensioned without sagging or distortion ensures effective transmission of torque from the pedals to the rear bicycle axle. The need to disassemble and shorten it may be due to the following reasons:

Replace due to severe wear or breakage. The new chain is the standard 114–116 links. On regular road bikes, as a rule, it is used entirely; on mountain bikes, it has to be shortened by 8–10 links. Only the necessary minimum is left on a trial bike.
Constructive changes. After upgrading a bicycle, the chain often begins to dangle, spin, or fall off the sprockets, despite proper care.
Sagging due to long-term use, intense load, changing a set of sprockets.

To determine the optimal length, you need to change the gear so that the chain lies on the largest sprocket at the front and rear. Then the links are opened, pulling it all the way. Having made a mark, add 2-3 more links to prevent increased loads on the transmission.

Chain replacement may be required due to severe wear or breakage. Quite often, the chain begins to dangle or spin after upgrading the bicycle. Chain sagging is possible due to long-term use or changing the set of sprockets

Tip 1: How to change a chain on a bicycle

Why is it necessary to change the chain?

It is recommended to change a bicycle chain every one and a half to two thousand kilometers, since it is subject to a lot of wear, and specifically, it stretches. This is not surprising, since this part of the transmission is subject to a huge load, a large longitudinal force, which leads to the distance of the chain elements from each other, which entails a number of unpleasant consequences. This is, first of all, chain slippage, which will occur when a large load is applied to the connecting rod. Thus, it will be quite difficult to develop high speed on a bicycle with a worn chain, and you will have to completely forget about steep climbs.

The second unpleasant consequence of chain wear will be difficult gear shifting. When you try to transfer the chain from one sprocket to another, it will jump off, unable to be firmly fixed on the sprocket teeth. Consequently, all the advantages of a bike with more speeds come to naught.

If the listed problems are not so terrible for everyday use of a cheap bicycle, then professional athletes and advanced amateurs are deprived of most of the advantages of their expensive, sophisticated bicycles.

How to determine the degree of chain wear?

Having convinced yourself of the need to periodically change the chain, you should move on to explaining the process itself. First of all, you should learn to determine the moment when the chain requires replacement, because it is difficult to systematically monitor the mileage. The most accurate way to determine the degree of wear is to measure the distance from the center of an arbitrary pin (the axis connecting the links) to the center of the twenty-fourth pin after it with a simple ruler. This distance should be 304.8-306.4 mm. If the measured distance exceeds the recommended one, the chain requires replacement.

How to change the chain?

There are two types of chains: lock and pin. The first case is not of particular interest, since such chains are used on children's bicycles and replacing them is not difficult; for this you only need a screwdriver.

The situation is more interesting with the second type of circuit - a circuit with a pin. First of all, you will need a special tool - a chain squeezer. It is highly not recommended to remove such a chain using improvised means. A chain squeezer is used to separate and connect the links of a bicycle chain. The sequence of actions when working with this tool is as follows:

— place the chain pin opposite the squeeze pin; — tighten the screw of the pin, squeezing out the pin; — remove the pin.

That's it, now the chain is disconnected, you can remove it and install a new one. The process of installing a new chain is fundamentally no different from the process of removing it.

Do-it-yourself universal key made from a chain and bolt

Dear visitors to the “Homemade Friend” website, from the material presented you will learn how to make a universal wrench yourself from a bicycle chain, a bolt and three nuts with your own hands. Step-by-step photos of assembling the wrench are presented and so off we go... Many of you have probably encountered such a problem... when the edges on a nut or bolt being turned off are a little knocked off and a regular wrench simply turns without performing its function. This can be solved with the help of a homemade chain wrench that works in compression, that is, the stronger the handle of the key, the stronger the chain will be clamped and thereby unscrew even the most eaten nut or bolt.

Materials

Tools

Step-by-step instructions for assembling a universal key with your own hands.

How to use a universal wrench and what it can do

The size of the grip of a homemade key can be selected by placing on the tail of the screw the chain link that provides the required size of the grip loop.

This is how the loop turned out to be quite large.

If you hook another link onto the tail of the screw, the loop can be smaller.

As for the possibilities, for our instrument they are almost limitless. For example, they can easily open a stubborn cap on a plastic bottle.

With our wrench you can completely easily rip off a completely round old nozzle that has rusted to the country faucet.

A universal wrench made in this way will allow you to unscrew a rusted bolt of any size.

Our tool is capable of unscrewing the seemingly tightly stuck head of an old faucet.

So, we see that a simply made universal wrench is almost omnipotent. Do you like this thing? Do you want to praise us for reminding you of the existence of a homemade product that has been known for a long time, or does this tool seem unnecessary to you and you want to scold us? Feel free to click here, write about your impressions, and your opinion will be immortalized on the Internet.

Using a chain squeezer

In some chains, a split link is used to remove and install it, so a squeeze is not used. But, when traveling, you need to have it, since the chain sometimes breaks, and it needs to be repaired - replace a section of the chain, or if the rooster or rear derailleur breaks, shorten the chain and turn a multi-speed bicycle into one high-speed one.

It is difficult to do all these actions without squeezing the chain. Very often, a chain squeezer is included in a universal tool, although such squeezers are inconvenient to use.

An indicator of the reliability of chain squeezing is the material from which its pin is made. It should be fairly rigid and not bend after several uses. Sometimes marc from well-known manufacturers works much worse than inexpensive ones of unknown origin.

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How to put a chain on a bicycle without a lock

Before reconnecting the chain on mountain bikes and sports bikes, it must be correctly pulled through the rollers, see fig. below, marked with a red line:

Next, move on to the direct connection of the chain link. To do this, you need to carry out the same operation, only in reverse order. We place the chain in the groove near the fixing bolt so that the protruding pin faces the spout of the squeezer. By turning the handle, we smoothly press the pin back until it completely enters the link. After this procedure, the links into which the pin was pressed should move freely; if this does not happen, then you need to use the chain release adjustment groove. Having placed the desired link in the adjustment groove, it is necessary to ensure that the ends of the pin protrude equally from both ends.

If the chain is from Shimano with a disposable connecting pin, then using a squeezer you need to press it into the link and break off the tip with a rounded end. This tip is needed to simplify the process of pressing the pin.

Or for replacement when it is already .

With a lock

To remove the chain you need to open the lock. There are several types of locks, but the processes for opening them are similar; to do this, you need to close the lock axes and remove the cover.

If problems arise when opening locks, you can use tools, such as special lock pliers.

Without lock

If your bicycle has a chain without a lock, then you will have to press the axle out of the chain link. This process will also need to be carried out in order to reduce the number of chain links when necessary.

To press out the chain axle you need a special tool - a chain squeezer. For this operation, you can choose any chain link, the only condition is that when pressing out again, it is better to use a new one, since after the operation the link becomes slightly looser.

Insert the chain link into the tool and secure with a screw

Please note that some chain squeezers have two seats, one space for pressing out the axle (it is located closer to the locking screw), and the second place is used only for adjusting the axle. Carefully tighten the release screw, thereby squeezing out the axle

Do not push out the axle all the way if you plan to assemble a link with the same axle, otherwise it will be problematic to install it back!

The chain has been removed.

Do-it-yourself universal key made from a chain and bolt

Dear visitors to the Labuda Blog website, from the material presented you will learn how to make a universal key yourself from a bicycle chain, a bolt and three nuts with your own hands. Step-by-step photos of assembling the wrench are presented and so off we go... Many of you have probably encountered such a problem... when the edges on a nut or bolt being turned off are a little knocked off and a regular wrench simply turns without performing its function. This can be solved with the help of a homemade chain wrench that works in compression, that is, the stronger the handle of the key, the stronger the chain will be clamped and thereby unscrew even the most eaten nut or bolt. To make a universal key you will need a piece of a bicycle chain, two nuts and bolt. We screw the nuts onto the bolt and weld a piece of chain to them so that we get a grip and weld it to the other side of the nuts. Next, we put the chain on the nut or bolt that needs to be unscrewed and tighten the bolt, thereby tensioning the chain, everything can be unscrewed) Materials bicycle chain nut 2 pcs bolt Tools welding inverter angle grinder (grinder) Step-by-step instructions for assembling a universal wrench with your own hands. And so, the necessary parts to assemble the key. Two nuts are screwed onto the bolt. We measure the chain, namely how much is needed from nut to nut. We make a mark in the place where the chain should be riveted. We clamp the chain in a vice and cut off the rivets using a grinder. We knock out the rivets. Next, the chain is welded first to one nut. Then it is tensioned and welded on the other side of the nut. Scale and excess metal are removed using an angle grinder (grinder). Then unscrew the bolt and loosen the chain to the required diameter. Insert the nut and tighten the bolt along the threads, thereby...

Many of you have probably encountered such a problem... when the edges on a nut or bolt being turned off are a little knocked off and a regular wrench simply turns without performing its function. This can be solved with the help of a homemade chain wrench that works in compression, that is, the stronger the handle of the key, the stronger the chain will be clamped and thereby unscrew even the most eaten nut or bolt.

Materials

Tools

Step-by-step instructions for assembling a universal key with your own hands.

And so, the necessary parts to assemble the key.

Two nuts are screwed onto the bolt.

We measure the chain, namely how much is needed from nut to nut.

We make a mark in the place where the chain should be riveted.

We clamp the chain in a vice and cut off the rivets using a grinder.

Next, the chain is welded first to one nut.

Then it is tensioned and welded on the other side of the nut.

Scale and excess metal are removed using an angle grinder (grinder)

Then unscrew the bolt and loosen the chain to the required diameter.

We insert the nut and tighten the bolt along the threads, thereby tensioning the chain and clamping the resulting connection.

Let's test the key in action.

We consolidate the material covered by watching the video. Enjoy watching)

How to dismantle different types of chains

All instructions on how to remove a chain from a bicycle describe the same procedure. To perform this you will need a standard set of tools:

wrench for unscrewing the rear wheel;
pliers, necessary for holding the pin and segments;
squeezer – a special device for pressing out pins.

Replacing a damaged, sagging, torn or jumping blade requires removing the chain. There are two ways to perform the procedure. The optimal option depends on the type of link fastening.

Rear wheel wrench

Pliers Squeeze

Without a lock with a squeeze

A squeeze tool, which consists of a metal base and a screw-on bolt, will help you perform the procedure correctly. Sometimes this tool is included with a set of hexagons. Experts recommend taking it with you on the road. The chain without a lock is removed in accordance with the instructions:

First of all, one or more links are selected for opening;
the cells are placed on the tool so that the pin is located directly in front of the release axis of the device;
With careful movements, unscrew the screw and pull the axle towards you;
The axle is put in place by clamping the links and returning the pin to its original position.

Removing a chain from a bicycle without a lock is quite difficult. If you push the pin all the way out, you won’t be able to insert it back on your own. The mechanism cannot be disassembled without special tools, so it is not popular among cycling enthusiasts.

With a lock

The locking leaf is connected by a special device that can be easily disassembled. To find the fastening, you need to carefully inspect the chain from all sides. The split link is usually stamped with the brand name. You can open it using a screwdriver, pliers, a key with notches or any other tool. The procedure consists of several stages:

you need to find split links, select one of them;
the cell is clamped with a suitable tool and careful movements are made to the side;
The part is removed for repair or replacement.

When there is a breakdown on the road, you don’t always have special tools with you. In such a situation, you can remove the chain and lock from the bicycle using only your hands. The procedure is carried out according to the instructions:

the selected cell is clamped with the thumb and forefinger; shift the metal structure to the side (it is convenient to use ordinary thread for this); the thread is carefully hooked to the edge of the fabric in a pre-selected place, then pulled to the side, moving the mechanism; after this, the failed element on a bicycle without speeds is removed for repair or replacement; if replacement is intended, after removing the old one, the new element is carefully inserted into the common fabric.

If there is a chain with a lock, the bicycle can be repaired without squeezing. Emergency repairs are carried out to avoid the part slipping off or breaking. You can do this yourself without resorting to the help of specialists.

Steering column, brake system and transmission overhaul

Let's move on to the elements of a bicycle that provide precise control, movement and stopping.

Steering column

There are two types of speakers on bicycles - integrated with industrial bearings and semi-integrated with balls.

Maintenance of steering wheels with industrial bearings only includes timely lubrication. With semi-integrated columns, everything is more complicated: over time, the loads inside it are redistributed, causing the balls to crumble. As a result, the steering wheel turns or becomes difficult to move. Repair of a steering wheel with bulk balls includes their replacement and thorough lubrication. It is also a good idea to check the column for dirt. Work must be carried out before each season or as necessary.

Brake system

Keeping your brakes in good working order is key to safety. The system should be checked as often as possible, on average twice a week. We check:

worn out pads;
condition of the braking surface;
integrity and tension of cables;
lubrication of the moving parts of the caliper and handle;
line to air (for brakes with hydraulics).

For effective braking, it is important to set the pads correctly: the gap should be minimal, but not slow down the wheel. Of course, there should be no distortion on the rim itself. The surface (rim or disc) must be wiped clean and not allowed to become oily or dirty.

The surface (rim or disc) must be wiped clean and not allowed to become oily or dirty.

The accuracy and speed of braking depends on the tension and general condition of the cables. Optimal tension - the pads instantly fit and bounce when the handle is pressed/released. The good condition of the shirt is of great importance - no cracks in the shell or stretch marks in the winding.

For hydraulic brakes, the line must be maintained in working condition. The reason for poor performance lies in the presence of air or contamination of the liquid. The system is bled using a special tool once a season. The liquid must comply with the manufacturer's instructions.

Transmission overhaul:

checking and replacing bearings in the carriage, lubricating the unit;
inspection of the integrity of connecting rods;
cleaning and lubricating the bicycle chain;
checking and replacing sprockets on the cassette;
switch settings.

The carriage and connecting rods can only be removed using special pullers

Particular attention is paid to the condition of the connecting rod pair (there should be no cracks) and the condition of the bearings inside the carriage. Abundant lubrication with a special compound plays a key role. Cleaning and lubricating the chain is necessary to reduce wear on expensive transmission components - cassettes

You can remove the chain manually if there is a lock or using a squeezer. The transmission mechanism needs to be serviced as needed, but it is a good idea to periodically wipe the surface of the sprockets and chains from dust.

Cleaning and lubricating the chain is necessary to reduce wear on expensive transmission components - cassettes. You can remove the chain manually if there is a lock or using a squeezer. The transmission mechanism needs to be serviced as needed, but it is a good idea to periodically wipe the surface of the sprockets and chains from dust.

Worn sprockets on cassettes can be replaced individually. To free the rear wheel axle from the system, you will need a special wrench with a chain whip to hold it.

Switching speeds depends on the state of the switches: their settings and the condition of the drive cable. Here are detailed instructions for setting up the front and rear derailleurs.

Bicycle maintenance – keeping it clean, lubricating mechanisms, replacing worn parts and consumables – is an integral part of a cyclist’s life. Timely correction of all defects, careful handling and forethought allows you to get the most from your bike and enjoy riding for many, many seasons.

How to remove a chain yourself using a squeezer

Perform actions in the following sequence:

select the area you want to disconnect. If the element has been disassembled more than once, select a previously unrepaired link;
a link is inserted into the squeeze so that the clamping axis and pin are opposite;
the part in the chain squeeze is fixed with a screw;
to push the pin out, rotate the handle of the device;
when the pin is pressed out, the links are removed;
the outermost ones are connected, making sure that the pin, which is located “in the cheek”, looks outward, i.e. He “looks” at the repairman making repairs. The part is first passed through the switches, after which two links are placed on top of one another, making sure that the pin coincides with the bushing;
The “cheeks” are opened with pliers. The pin extending outward prevents the links from coming apart once they are in place;
To press a pin into the hole, the squeeze is inserted into the link so that the axes of the rod and pin ideally coincide, and the funnel is turned;
Next, check that the “cheeks” of the pin links are symmetrical. If this is not the case, they will have to be corrected;
the connected links are checked for mobility. If they are motionless, the position is corrected using pliers.

Chain assembly[edit]

When assembling the chain, it is necessary to overcome the tension of the rear derailleur spring, so an assistant will be appropriate here to hold the derailleur (or remove the chain from the system).

Place the chain so that the protruding pin faces your direction.

Grasp the link that does not have a pin protruding from it and guide the chain from right to left through the front and rear derailleurs. The rear derailleur has 2 “holes” next to the rollers that you need to thread the chain through. Connect the ends of the chain at the bottom against the resistance of the rear derailleur spring. Have an assistant hold the switch.

Place the link to be connected in the squeeze, on the stop that is closest to the fixing screw.

When adjusting the position of the chain, move the pin to the clamped pin so that they are coaxial.

Tighten the link with the fixing screw

Attention! Skipping this step may result in broken squeezer. Rotate the handle to press the pin into the link

Constantly monitor the degree of immersion of the pin in the adjacent ones - it should not be completely flush with the cheek, but stick out a fraction of a millimeter

Rotate the handle to press the pin into the link. Constantly monitor the degree of immersion of the pin in the adjacent ones - it should not be completely flush with the cheek, but stick out a fraction of a millimeter.

Remove the chain from the squeezer, check how symmetrically the pin fits

If necessary, adjust its position.

Check the mobility of the assembled link. If it bends tightly, then you need to grab the chain on both sides of the assembled link and forcefully bend it in the transverse direction.

Types of filter removal devices

There are several varieties of such pullers, and before you start reinventing the wheel, it’s worth taking a closer look at each of them. When dismantling the round housing, the most important thing is to grip it firmly. Some manufacturers perform faceted stamping on the body, some make notches, some stamp ribs, but it is easier, of course, not to depend on the imagination of filter manufacturers, but to be prepared for an absolutely smooth cylinder.

Any puller, including ours, is more valuable if it can be used not only for one specific task or car model, but when it is as versatile as possible. For example, if the filter diameter is 60 mm, then there is nothing to do with a puller for a 120 mm filter. It often happens that for the same motor, filters can be of different diameters, then you won’t have enough pullers. The following types of pullers are considered the most universal devices:

belt or tape;
chain;
crab puller;
ticks.

There is also a cup puller. It fits onto the end of the filter and follows the shape of its body. The problem is that such devices are designed only for a certain body configuration, and therefore are sold only in sets of several pieces. You don’t have to try to replicate their shape on your own, in a garage environment.

What do you need to know about other pullers?

The chain oil filter puller, depending on the design, allows you to unscrew and tighten filters with diameters ranging from 60–140 mm. It consists of a handle and a chain attached to it at one end, which serves as an adjustable grip. Most pullers are equipped with a single-row chain, but there are also models with a double-row chain. The second end of the grip, depending on the design, can be free or passed through a special groove located in the handle and having a lock.

During the first execution of the puller, before unscrewing the filter, the chain is tightly wound around its body, almost to the end. The remaining section of the grip is attached to the hook on the handle. After this, the puller rests on the filter and acts like a lever. The second version of the tool already has a loop made of chain, which has adjustable dimensions and is immediately thrown onto the filter. After this, pulling the end of the gripper passed through the groove, tighten the loop and press on the tool handle in the desired direction. At the same time, the groove lock securely holds the chain, preventing it from loosening its grip.

Grab with chain loop

Belt pullers have a working diameter range of 25–160 mm. They have a special belt that forms a loop to hold the filter. It can be fixed at both ends in a square steel rod. A belt is wound around it after the loop is thrown over the filter. Then a suitable key is placed on the rod and the cleaner is unscrewed. Another type of puller is similar in design and use to the second type of chain tool.

The operating range of belt filters is one of the narrowest - the difference between the minimum and maximum permissible filter diameters can reach only 30 mm. They use a strip of steel or plastic, fixed at both ends to the handle and forming a loop, the size of which can be slightly adjusted in some designs. After throwing the grip on, force is applied to the handle and it acts like a lever. The tightness of the filter coverage is achieved in some designs by a screw on the handle, and in others - due to natural tension when unscrewing. Most pullers of this type often fail to cope with filters that are too tight.

Belt filter part remover

The tools are sickle-shaped and pliers-shaped and have 2 working curved jaws with notches and 1 or 2 handles. Their working range of grip is also small; in some designs it is adjustable. Work with these pullers as with ordinary pliers - grab the filter, squeeze and unscrew.

A puller with 2 adjustable jaws consists of a thick narrow base plate, a screw and paws with notches on the working part. The threaded ends of the grippers are moved in the longitudinal slots of the base and secured in the desired position with a nut. When you tighten the screw passing along the thread of the hole in the center of the plate, after it is pressed tightly against the filter, the latter is unscrewed.

What to look for when purchasing

An adjustable wrench is a universal tool with varying jaw sizes. It has a number of advantages:

it replaces several models;
if desired, you will purchase a tool with specially shaped jaws;
There are models on sale with plastic handles, so they are comfortable to hold while working.

There were some downsides:

since the head of the adjustable wrenches is quite large, it is difficult to work with the tool in hard-to-reach places;
the sponge is not fixed securely, and it is not easy to unscrew a tightly tightened nut;
During the operation of the key, the play increases;
The position of the sponge needs to be adjusted.

Despite all the disadvantages, the adjustable wrench is easy to use, so hurry to get one.

If the belt option does not justify itself, we make a chain one

To make your own chain puller, you will need a piece of half-inch or inch used pipe with uncorroded, undamaged walls and a thread at one end. The length of the piece must be no less than the height of the filter. We select a suitable plug for the pipe so that it screws onto its thread. You'll also need a bicycle chain.

Bicycle chain and pipe

We drill a hole with a diameter of 9 mm in the center of the plug. Using a triangular file, we give it a square shape with our own hands. We carry out the processing until the dimensions of the hole are suitable for the ratchet wrench, or more precisely, for its end. The latter should fit into the resulting opening of the plug quite tightly, with almost no play. Screw the plug onto the end of the pipe and tighten it very tightly. To prevent it from unscrewing when using the puller, it is recommended to attach it to the pipe by welding.

As a last resort, you can try to crush the metal at the end of the thread using a dull chisel and hammer, but only carefully so as not to deform the pipe. We make markings on the pipe for drilling holes for the chain. To securely grip the filter, 2 pieces of it installed on the puller opposite the opposite ends of the cleaner are enough. But you can also make a 3rd hole, between the 2 outer ones, for another 1st chain. In this case, the puller will become more versatile, as it will allow you to unscrew filters with different height sizes.

Homemade device for securely grasping the filter

Having threaded a chain through one of the drilled holes in the pipe, we loop it around the filter, trying out how long the pieces will be needed. We measure out enough so that the puller, when unclamped, fits freely onto the cleaner. You can even make some supply of chain length for filters whose diameter is larger than that installed on the car. But we must take into account that it will be less convenient to work with such a puller. Along the measured length, we disassemble the chain into separate fragments - squeeze out the pins and separate the links at this point.

Having threaded the resulting sections through the holes in the pipe, we make loops out of them - we connect the links of the ends and press in the pins. To unscrew the filter, we put the puller loops on it and, if necessary, when the chains are too long, we manually turn the pipe counterclockwise, thereby removing the slack. Then we insert a ratchet wrench into the plug and, with its help, begin to dismantle the purifier.

Having decided to change the oil in their car themselves, many car owners are faced with an unexpected obstacle - the oil filter does not want to be unscrewed by hand.

Everything is complicated by the round shape of the filter element housing, which is impossible to grasp properly. It’s good if there is a car store nearby that sells special pullers of different types (they are chain, screw, end, belt, etc.), but what if there is no way to purchase a key, but you desperately need to remove the filter?

In fact, everything is much simpler than it might seem at first glance: there are several simple ways to remove the oil filter without a key. We will talk about them in detail in this article.

Method 3: Using a leather trouser belt

If you don't have an old timing belt at hand, a regular leather belt will do just fine.

The principle is as follows: the belt is put on in a loop and tightened with force. In this case, the long end of the belt serves as a lever.

Do not forget that the oil filter is unscrewed counterclockwise.

The most important thing is that the filter housing is clean, otherwise the belt will slip. For better contact, the surface of the filter can be slightly sanded.

Method 4: Hammer + chisel.

Everything is very simple here: a deep notch is made on the filter body on the thread side, then a chisel is inserted into it and the filter is torn off the thread with tangential hammer blows.
Next, the filter element is unscrewed by hand. This method is rarely used, since the free space around the filter is limited and there is practically no room for such maneuvers.

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Types of pullers

Essentially there are only two types and they work the same:

Ribbon loop. It’s just a handle in which a slot is made and a loop is inserted there; it can be made of a soft material (such as rubber), or it can be made of a hard one, but it must bend (for example, a thin sheet of metal). Place it on top and tighten it with a handle, then simply unscrew the oil filter element
Chain loop. Everything is the same, only the loop is made from a chain, many write that this option is much stronger, because the first type (rubber or thin metal) can simply break

Some craftsmen say that pullers are the best option - but what is it really like?