How to sharpen a chainsaw chain with your own hands: the best ways

The guarantee of long-term operation and good performance of your tool is correct and timely maintenance. To make the sawing process comfortable, it is necessary to sharpen chain saws in a timely manner. Blunt teeth can be sharpened by contacting a specialist, or you can do it yourself. The process is simple. But given that the teeth have a non-standard shape, you need to know some nuances and acquire a special tool.

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ANY CUTTING TOOL, NO MATTER SHARP AND HARD IT IS, WILL BE DULLED IN THE PROCESS OF WORK. TO PRESERVE ITS ORIGINAL PERFORMANCE, THE USER HAS TO PUSH HARDER ON IT WHILE OPERATING, WHICH INCREASES FRICTION. THIS USUALLY RESULTS IN INTENSIVE HEAT GENERATION IN THE CUTTING AREA, AND WHEN CUTTING WOOD, SMOKE AND A BURNING SMELL MAY APPEAR. TO ELIMINATE THIS SITUATION, IT IS NECESSARY TO PERIODICALLY SHARPEN THE CUTTING TOOL TO RESTORE ITS ORIGINAL PROPERTIES. HOW TO MANUALLY SHARPEN A CHAINSAW YOURSELF? SERGEY GEKMAN, STIHL AND VIKING PRODUCT TRAINER, TELLS US ABOUT THIS TODAY.

ABOUT THE DESIGN OF THE CHAINSAW SAW EQUIPMENT

First, a few words about the design of the saw chain. All modern saw chains are three-link and are designed on the same principle. They consist of driving links, connecting links, as well as left and right cutting teeth (installed alternately).

Over time, it is the cutting links that become dull, even though STIHL makes them only from wear-resistant chromium-nickel steel. The chain is put on a tire with a guide groove along which its leading links slide. Note that in STIHL chains, the supporting surface adjacent to the bar is induction hardened during manufacturing to increase wear resistance. The tires have perfect symmetry, allowing them to be flipped, swapping bottom and top, allowing the load to be distributed evenly on both sides.

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The chain is driven by a drive sprocket on which the chain is placed. During manufacturing, each chain is necessarily subjected to pre-stretching, which reduces elongation during initial use to a minimum, increases its service life and reduces wear.

Saw design

To better understand what a chainsaw is and how it works, it is advisable to know how it works.

The first saw chains appeared at the beginning of the twentieth century. The designers did not begin to puzzle; they simply mounted teeth on the chain, which quickly lost their functionality. In appearance they resembled those that stand on hand hacksaws for wood. Sharpening such a chainsaw caused great difficulties. But repeated attempts to create the perfect saw chain were crowned with success only in 1947.

Chainsaw device

This chainsaw has links with an L-shaped cut. Modern chains are, in fact, the direct ancestors of this development.

If during work the cutting speed begins to decrease, the chainsaw in the hands of the master begins to “walk”, then most likely the saw chain has lost its operational properties, that is, it has become dull and measures must be taken to restore them.

CIRCUIT PARAMETERS

The main geometric parameters of the saw chain are pitch, profile height and shape of the cutting tooth, thickness of the drive link, number of links. The pitch is half the distance between the centers of three consecutive rivets.

It is usually measured in inches, and each has a symbol (see table 1). Based on the height of the tooth profile, saw chains are divided into low- and high-profile. Thus, for powerful chainsaws, STIHL provides Rapid chains with a higher tooth, and for less powerful chainsaws, Picco chains with a lower tooth. The number of links determines the length of the chain, depends on the power of the engine installed in the saw, as well as the type of work performed and corresponds to the size of the tire.

The thickness of the drive link is measured in millimeters (mm) and must correspond to the width of the groove of the tire used (c/i. Table 2). The last number of this thickness is stamped as a symbol on each drive link of the chain.

Saw chains may also differ in the shape of the cutting tooth. Chains produced by STIHL have two such forms - Micro (M), Super (S). Without going into the intricacies of the design, we note that a saw chain with a Micro cutting tooth shape is universal; it combines high cutting performance, ease of use, long service life and simple maintenance.

Meets the requirements of construction, agriculture and forestry. The Super tooth shape saw chain combines maximum cutting performance, high plunge-in efficiency and low feed force to meet the highest demands on professional forestry tools. These chains cut faster and are good for cutting hard or frozen wood. There are certain features when sharpening a Super saw chain.

In addition, STIHL has a Duro saw chain with carbide-tipped teeth. It combines the highest wear resistance, ease of use and good performance. Stable when working with dirty wood or in short contact with the ground, when sawing formwork boards or scaffolding after finishing work.

Highly effective when used in forest areas damaged by fire. Duro chains last up to 10 times longer than non-carbide-tipped saw chains. Such chains are much more expensive, and are sharpened with an electric sharpening machine with a diamond sharpening wheel in specialized service centers.

The cutting teeth work on the principle of a plane: they cut chips from the wood. The depth of penetration of the cutting tooth into the wood and thus the thickness of the chips is determined by the distance between the depth stop and the upper part of the cutting tooth. If this distance is not enough, then the saw chain will not capture the chips (that is, cut), but will only slide along the wood. Conversely, the greater the height difference between the stop and the tip of the cutting tooth, the thicker the chips, but at the same time the greater the vibration produced by the chain, and the higher the load on the drive mechanism. Therefore, it is necessary to achieve an optimal balance between chain vibration and performance, and in all STIHL saw models this ratio has been selected.

Chainsaw Sthil MS 180 chain: types, sharpening, tension….

Stihl MS180 chainsaw will fit chains with a 3/8-inch pitch and a groove width (drive link thickness) of 1.3 mm. How to choose a chain for the most popular chainsaw in our country? It should be based on your needs. If you need a thin and high-quality cut and you have a guide rail with a groove of 1.1 mm, then install PMMC3. The saw comes with a chain for a standard 35 cm bar marked PMC3 . And if you need a chain with increased strength characteristics, then install a Picco Duro (PD3)

HOW TO DETERMINE THAT IT’S TIME TO SHARPEN A CHAINSAW CHAIN

Frequent use of a chain saw leads to rapid dulling of the cutting teeth, and when abrasive particles (for example, earth) enter this process accelerates. Sometimes it is necessary to restore the cutting ability of a saw several times during one working day: with timely sharpening, less steel will have to be removed each time, which will increase the service life of the entire cutting set as a whole. We list the most characteristic signs of a dull chain:

• – the saw does not cut into the wood itself, requiring significant pressure on the motor unit;
• – instead of large chips, the saw chain throws out small sawdust;
• – the appearance of smoke and a burning smell when sawing, despite the impeccable operation of the oil pump and sufficient chain tension;
• – the saw “leads” to the side due to uneven wear of the cutting teeth;
• – when sawing, the chain “beats” and “jumps”, which can be caused by a small distance between the tops of the depth stops and the corresponding cutting edges.

In addition, special lines are applied to the cutting links of STIHL chains - these are wear markings. If the chain wears down to these lines, the chain needs to be replaced.

PRACTICAL RECOMMENDATIONS FOR SHARPENING THE STIHL CHAINSAW CHAINS

Sharpening a saw chain, if you have the appropriate knowledge and skills, is not difficult, but it requires compliance with certain rules. Let's look at the most useful and necessary ones.

When working with a saw for a long time, you have to periodically sharpen its cutting part during the day, since all cutting teeth must first of all have the same length, sharpening angle and position of the depth stop.

To do this, we first find the shortest tooth, take it as the starting point, and during the sharpening process we adjust all the other cutting teeth of the chain to its length. If it is in the right row of teeth, then fix the guide bar in a vice with the end sprocket to the left, but if in the left row, then turn the guide bar with the end sprocket to the right. Then we place this tooth in the sharpening zone and turn on the chain brake. Sharpening is carried out with a round file of a certain diameter depending on the chain pitch <cm. table 1), holding it at a right angle to the plane of the tire in the vertical direction and at a sharpening angle in the horizontal direction. For cross-cutting wood, the sharpening angle is usually 30°, and for longitudinal cutting – 10°.

Read also: How to carve wood for beginners

For this reason, two types of saw chains are produced - transverse and longitudinal, differing in sharpening angle.

When working with a file, 20-25% of its diameter should protrude above the upper edge of the cutting tooth. Remember that the file grinds the metal only when moving away from itself, and when moving back it should be lifted. In addition, the file must be periodically rotated slightly around its axis to prevent uneven wear. After two or three forward feeds, check the uniformity of steel removal from the tooth being ground. If the removal occurs in places, then either you are using the wrong file, or you are moving the file too high or too deep. The cutting edge must be ground until the light strip disappears on it.

After obtaining a good cutting edge on the tooth being sharpened, first disengage the brake, move the chain to the next tooth on the same side of the bar, and reinstall the brake before sharpening. Grind down the remaining cutting teeth on this side to the same length, then rotate the tool 180° and sharpen all the teeth on the other side in the same way. Let us remind you that all of them need to be ground down to the length of the initial tooth. If the cutting teeth of one row are longer than the other, then align them by performing one or two additional sharpening movements.

Compliance with the above recommendations helps to obtain correct and identical values ​​of the rake angle and sharpening angle with the same height of all cutting chain links.

Now you need to adjust the depth limiters, since the differences in the heights of the upper points of the cutting edge and the plunge limiter decreased as the teeth were ground, and not equally, because the teeth had to be aligned.

To check this value, it is convenient to use a filing gauge that corresponds to the chain pitch and determines the cutting depth (see Table 1). It is a template for controlling the position of the cutting depth limiter; it is placed on the cutting tooth, and if the cutting depth limiter protrudes above the upper plane of the caliber, then this excess must be removed with a flat file. Do not touch a sharpened cutting tooth with a file. Count the number of file feeds on the first depth stop and grind the depth stops of the remaining cutting teeth approximately the same number of times, making sure to round the leading edge of the stop to reduce vibration and reduce the risk of kickback.

In conclusion, we note that hand sharpening of a chain saw is worthwhile to maintain the performance of the tool during intensive use during the workday. Moreover, STIHL offers a wide range of auxiliary devices that make sharpening easier and more efficient. These are special guides, various sharpening devices, control gauges, etc. After 3-4 manual sharpenings, we recommend professional mechanized sharpening of the saw chain in a specialized service center to guarantee high productivity and excellent cutting quality.

Application

Table 1. Size range of saw chains

Even the popular Stihl does not last forever: the teeth of a chainsaw eventually wear out, which is easy to determine by the nature of the chips that form. With a dull cutting edge, the chips turn out to be small, because the working edge does not cut, but crushes the wood. Naturally, the effort expended by the operator increases sharply. It's time to sharpen the saw. How to do this correctly - choose the optimal technology, determine what angle of tooth sharpening should be and how to check it?

Chain file

You need to understand that you won’t be able to sharpen a chain with an ordinary round file, much less a flat or triangular file, since a file for a chain must have its own parameters. Although it’s worth making a note here - you can sharpen the depth limiter with a simple flat file.

File parameters for chain sharpening

The most important parameter of a file for sharpening a chain is its diameter. It is important because, depending on the pitch of the chain, a file of a certain diameter is used. Below is a table showing which file is suitable for a chain with a particular pitch.

In addition, it is necessary to take into account that most files are sold without a handle. It should be purchased separately. This, of course, does not apply to file sets, in which most files are equipped with handles.

Chain sharpening accessories

Without a doubt, an experienced chainsaw user will be able to sharpen a chain without various auxiliary devices and accessories, which is called “by eye.” But for this you need to have experience, which you must first gain. And this is much more convenient to do with the help of various devices that will allow you to sharpen the chain correctly. Let's look at the most popular of them.

Reference caliber

This device allows you to:

• Check the distance to the depth stop
• Check the sharpening angle of the cutting teeth of the chain
• Clean the groove and measure its depth
• Determine the front angle of the tooth

That is, with the help of a control gauge, after you have carried out preliminary sharpening, you can determine whether it was done correctly. It would be a good idea to take measurements before you start sharpening the chain. Manufactured by Stihl.

Clamping holder

This simple device allows you to sharpen the chain at the required height and at the desired angle. It fits tightly to the tooth and limits the depth of the file. And thanks to the risks applied, you will be able to control the required angle. It is necessary to select a holder based on the pitch of the chain being sharpened.

Combined template

Unlike the combination gauge produced by Stihl, the Husqvarna gauge allows not only measuring, but also direct sharpening. Templates also need to be selected according to the chain pitch.

Guide for holders

Despite the risks applied to the holder, sometimes it can be difficult to accurately maintain an angle, especially for an inexperienced user. Therefore, Stihl offers a special guide FF1, which fits onto the saw bar and allows you to accurately maintain the required sharpening angle.

Sharpening template

In addition to combined templates, Husqvarna also produces regular templates, which allow you to maintain the correct angle when sharpening the teeth of chainsaw chains.

Clamping holder 2 in 1

To properly sharpen a chain, two operations must be performed: sharpening the cutting teeth and sharpening the depth stop. Stihl offers a universal solution - a clamping holder for two files, which you can use for both operations at the same time.

Roller sharpening device Stihl FG4

This sharpening device is installed on the bar, precisely maintaining the required angle, and also allows you to check and adjust the cutting depth limiters on the chain.

Chain sharpener Stihl FG 2

When using this device, the chain must be removed from the chainsaw. This is one of the most accurate devices with which you can sharpen a saw chain for a gasoline saw.

Clamp

In field conditions, a clamp allows you to clearly fix the tire for precise sharpening.

File sets

Sets of files, depending on the manufacturer, may contain the following devices:

• Round file(s) of various diameters
• Flat file
• Templates
• Holders
• Reference caliber

Stihl sets

Chain sharpening kit from a well-known manufacturer. Set contents: Round file 4 mm; The file is flat; Caliber

External signs of a dull cutting edge of a chainsaw tooth

Let us recall that a chainsaw tooth has a complex configuration (see Fig. 1), which also depends on the direction of movement of the chain. It has two working edges: a side edge, which is located perpendicular to the axis of movement of the links, and an upper edge, located at a certain angle to the direction of movement of the chain. In addition, a limiter is provided on each tooth, the parameters of which determine the height of the chips removed. Since the main cutting force falls precisely on the working angle, all subsequent work with the tool will depend on the angle to which the tooth is sharpened.

Figure 1 – Functional parts of a chainsaw tooth and their appearance

Before starting long-term work with a chainsaw, it needs to be inspected and test sawed, as a result of which:

1. Visually determine the presence (or absence) of a conical section adjacent to the corner of the tooth, as well as a radius rounding on it - the main signs of blunting (see Fig. 2).

1. Check the feed force at which the tool operates steadily and produces a quick cut. For sharp teeth, the initial moment of penetration of the tooth into the wood occurs quickly, and without significant resistance to the material.
2. Find out the presence of chain vibrations during a steady cut - if they are noticeable, then the teeth need to be sharpened.
3. Inspect the appearance of the newly cut end (especially if the tool is used for rip sawing). If there are rough chips and dents, the chainsaw chain must be sharpened.

Features of sharpening teeth using a file

Sharpening with a file begins with the correct choice of the diameter of the device. For 1.3 mm chains, a file with a diameter of 4 mm is used. For cutting teeth measuring 1.6 mm, a file with a diameter of 5.2 mm is used.

Sharpening with a round file

Sharpening with a file must be done directly on the tool, having first secured the tire in a vice and turned on the hand brake. In order for the process to occur quickly, you need to sharpen the teeth first on one side at a certain angle, and then on the other side. The start of work should be marked with chalk or a marker.

Types of files

Using a reciprocating motion with a flat file, the stoppers are removed from the teeth. Beginners are recommended to use a special pattern that is attached to the tire, and all that remains is to make reciprocating movements with a round file. Experienced craftsmen sharpen using only a file, performing reciprocating movements 1-2 times for each tooth.

Sharpening angles and chainsaw tooth configuration

The cutting edge of a tooth is characterized by the following parameters:

In addition, each tool model has its own tooth pitch, the value of which for household and semi-professional models is associated with the power of the chainsaw and the torque that the drive develops. For example, for rip sawing, the pitch is taken smaller (for example, 0.325 inches). In this case, work productivity will decrease, but the required force will be significantly lower. Upper step values ​​for household chainsaws are adopted extremely rarely, mainly when felling trees with a large trunk diameter. The engine power should not exceed 2500 W.

The thickness of the cutting edge of most chainsaw manufacturers is set to the same, and equal to 1.3 mm (there are also edges with a thickness of 1.1 mm, but, firstly, they are extremely difficult to sharpen at home, and, secondly, such links are extremely have little functionality: they can only be used for cutting thin branches).

The height of the chain profile can be either 0.625 mm or 0.762 mm, and in the vast majority of cases, a low profile is used for household gasoline tools. When sharpening limiters, this parameter is very important, because as the height of the excess permissible values ​​decreases, the vibration of the tool during operation increases, although the quality of the cut remains satisfactory. Therefore, you should not get carried away with reducing the height of the stop when sharpening a tooth.

The sharpening angle of a chainsaw chain depends on the main purpose of the tool - for transverse or longitudinal sawing. Since during longitudinal sawing the resistance of wood is always noticeably higher, the edge of the tooth must be very sharp. It is recommended to do it in the range of 6...12° (for comparison - with a predominance of cross cuts - up to 25...30°). Naturally, in the first case, sharpening should be done more often, and especially carefully, since an unacceptably small angle of inclination of the tooth contributes to its rapid chipping when using a chainsaw. This is especially important for links that are made from structural alloy steels containing silicon and manganese, for example, 40ХГС or 35ХГСА.

Preventing the chain from becoming dull quickly

You can extend the life of the chain without periodic sharpening if you pay special attention to careful maintenance of the headset. In particular, it is required:

1. The use of specialized oil, which must be added when refueling the chainsaw. To select the required concentration, it is recommended to read the instructions for the oil itself.
2. All unused volume must be disposed of.
3. During operation, it is recommended to periodically check the size of the gap between the stopper and the tooth edge. Ideally it should be 0.7 mm.
4. In order to minimize the risk of tooth bending and one-sided abrasion, you can periodically rearrange the tire by 180 degrees.
5. The drive sprocket must be lubricated systematically. This must be done before each use of the saw. You can choose the oil that is diluted with gasoline and added to the fuel tank. But the M8 brand has the best performance indicators.
6. Monitor tension indicators. The chain should be positioned exactly along the grooves of the bar.

Chainsaw chain sharpening template

When purchasing a chainsaw, it is advisable to acquire a special template (see Fig. 3), with which you can easily set the optimal values ​​of the tooth angles. It is used to control the values ​​of the rear angles of the upper and end blades, as well as the front edge angle (it is indicated in the manufacturer’s instructions and can vary within 65...80°).

It is especially important to use a template to estimate the clearance angle of the upper blade. This sharpening angle of a chainsaw chain is otherwise very difficult to determine, and yet it must be maintained within rather limited limits - from 50 to 60°.

Read also: Do-it-yourself workbench for carpentry work

The sharpening angle is measured by determining the angle between the top cutting edge and a line perpendicular to the chain guide.

The sharpening angle of the chainsaw chain can be changed, depending on what work will be done. As the hardness of the wood increases, its value should decrease. In general, the optimal angle value is 10...12° for longitudinal cutting, and 25...30° for cross cutting.

Figure 3 – Appearance of a template for sharpening chainsaw teeth

Sharpening can be done manually using a round file with a working diameter of 4...5.5 mm, or on a machine. In the first case, it is extremely important to correctly position the tool relative to the tooth being sharpened. The upper edge of the working part of the file is located approximately a fifth above the upper edge of the tooth. The tool is positioned perpendicular to the chain axis, and at an angle of 25...30° to the upper edge of the tooth

One round file is not enough. To sharpen the limiter, you will need a flat file, and to clean the work area, you will need a hook that removes the sawdust that forms. There are also special holders on sale, on which the lines of direction of movement of the file relative to the chain axis are graduated. As can be seen from Fig. 4, the holder can be installed on the tooth from above, and rest on its upper edge. Since the height of the holder is adapted to a certain chain pitch, it should be selected in relation to chainsaws of specific models and brands.

The minimum required set to obtain the correct angle for sharpening a chain manually is shown in Fig. 5.

Figure 5 – Set of sharpening tools and accessories

First, the teeth of one direction are sharpened, and then the other. Start by lightly pressing the tool away from you, gradually increasing the load. During sharpening, the round file is periodically rotated along its axis.

A chainsaw is a necessary tool for household needs; it can find worthy use in the countryside. A chainsaw is easy to cut wood for a stove or fireplace. It also performs well when felling trees. Every owner of such an assistant should know the correct angle for sharpening chainsaw chains. Calling a specialist to your home, and especially to your dacha, costs a lot of money. Therefore, you have to make do on your own.

Although it is better to entrust sharpening to a professional, some lumberjacks have learned this craft on their own. If wood cutting specialists have to sharpen a chain 3-4 times a day, then an ordinary gardener does not have such a need due to the fact that he rarely uses the tool. How can you master the craft yourself? There are some recommendations for this.

How to choose the right angle?

Cutting hardwood is characterized by low productivity and a large load on all components of the chainsaw (we recommend reading in more detail about the structure of the chainsaw ). The most popular hardwoods are ash, beech, birch, elm, maple, oak and hazel.

The photo shows a special sharpening device that allows you to securely fix the file.

In order to effectively cut these rocks, it is necessary to maintain a sharpening angle of 25° . This value will ensure optimal operation of the chainsaw with average performance characteristics.

Increasing the angle will lead to an increase in engine speed, which means an increase in fuel consumption and load on the chainsaw components.

Softwoods include all conifers, with the exception of larch - spruce, pine, fir, cedar, as well as deciduous trees - alder, linden, aspen, willow and poplar.

For rip cutting

As already mentioned, the recommended sharpening angle is 10° with a possible deviation of up to 2°. This is due to the need to quickly cut deep into the tree when making a longitudinal cut.

If the chain is sharpened correctly, then when cutting, large quadrangular sawdust will appear.

For working with soft wood, the optimal angle is 25° . The fibers of soft wood are distributed unevenly, that is, hard ones alternate with soft ones. A value of 25° allows cutting of alternating fibers without periodically increasing the engine speed.

For cross cutting

For cross cuts in soft and hard wood, a value of 35° is recommended. This value allows you to achieve optimal power characteristics and load on the chain when cutting.

If an angle of 35° is maintained, the cut will be smooth and the sawdust will have a rectangular shape.

Angle table

The sharpening angles for saw chains are presented in the table below. From the table you can even understand which file will be needed to sharpen a particular chain.

Table of sharpening angles for all types of saw chains, as well as cutting depths. To enlarge, click on the photo.

Features of the chainsaw

Cutting wood is similar to working with a plane. In this case, the size of the cut depends on the thickness of the limiter. When the saw chain works hard, the teeth become dull faster. This is clearly manifested when the ground surface appears in the path of the chain. To completely dull the teeth, it is enough to “catch” on the ground for a couple of seconds.

If you sharpen it as often as possible, the chain will last much longer, since very little metal will be removed. In addition to the question of what angle of sharpening the chainsaw chain should be, you should also know this!

Working with a dull tool is undesirable for a number of reasons. First of all, this affects the quality of the cut, and not for the better. Fatigue also quickly sets in, which is felt not only in the hands, but also in the body.

Another reason is unjustified excess fuel consumption. All parts will work in increased mode, which inevitably leads to rapid wear. Performance drops seriously, which also happens when using a defective chain.

PowerSharp system

This system allows you to sharpen the chain in a few seconds, without even removing it from the bar. The set includes a PowerSharp chain, an abrasive bar,

and sharpening device. In order to sharpen a chain with it, it is useful to take the following 3 steps:

• install the PowerSharp bar and chain;
• fasten the beam inside the sharpening device, after which it is installed on the tire;
• The end of the chainsaw is rested on some object and started for a couple of seconds.

Features of the chain structure

To effectively be able to sharpen a chainsaw chain, you need to know the structure of its teeth. You can’t do without knowing the sharpening angle. Each tooth has a complex structure. Its geometry is represented by the following components:

• basis;
• spatula;
• depth limiter.

In this case, the blade consists of two blades: the end blade and the top blade. Moreover, between them there must be the correct sharpening angle of the chainsaw chain in order to provide it with the necessary performance.

As you can now guess, it is not the chain that cuts the tree, since it serves as the basis for securing the cutting links and moves them at high speed. The links themselves have sharp blades, with the help of which the wood is cut.

How and how to sharpen chain teeth

The saw chain teeth have an unusual shape. Sharpening a chainsaw chain is easy | country affairs. They consist of a base, a blade and a depth stop. At the same time, the spatula has a vertical blade and a horizontal blade that falls at an angle. It is thanks to these blades that the chainsaw cuts through wood.

Many people do not know how to sharpen the teeth on a chainsaw chain, but this is quite easy. round ratfil 4.8 mm and that’s it.

Many people don’t know how to sharpen the teeth on a chainsaw chain, but it’s quite simple. round file 4.8 mm and that’s it.

How do you know when sharpening is needed?

You can determine whether the chain teeth have been ground down or not by looking at some characteristic signs. Of course, it all depends on how intensively the chainsaw is used. It’s worth taking a closer look at what kind of shavings it leaves behind. Its uniformity and square shape indicate sharp teeth. If the chain is worn down, it usually leaves behind wood dust, and the sawdust itself resembles the needles that a hand saw “produces.”

If the cutting speed is reduced, then this is also considered a sign of a dull chain. You can feel an increase in the load on the instrument itself and the appearance of vibration. Beginners may not always be able to spot some of these signs. Therefore, they should pay more attention to the quality of the chips. Sometimes it can be brown, which is a guaranteed indication that it’s time to sharpen the chain.

Sharpening methods

To sharpen a tool, you can turn to the services of craftsmen who not only know what angle of sharpening chainsaw chains is necessary, but also do all the work quickly and at a professional level. As a rule, the cost of such services is not so high, but the quality, on the contrary, is very high! This option is suitable for those who like to cut wood and have no desire to tinker with their tools.

Everyone else will be interested in trying their hand at this. Professionals in this regard always choose automatic equipment, which is characterized by maximum efficiency and accuracy. Of course, not every lumberjack can afford to purchase it, and therefore they manage in different ways. And here, among many amateurs, there are discussions about which technique is better to give preference:

• manual;
• alternative;
• modern.

You should not neglect the signs of dullness, and at the first need, begin the operation of sharpening the chainsaw chain. This will allow you to use it for as long as possible.

Methods for sharpening chain saw blades

There are three types of sharpening a chain saw blade:

• Manual sharpening;
• On the machine;
• With the help of a grinder.

The most popular is the manual method, since, as a rule, all owners of chainsaws have the necessary tools. However, you should not use this method often, since it is difficult to accurately determine the angle of inclination, and incorrect sharpening will lead to rapid failure of the tool itself.

Manual sharpening with a file at home

The most popular way to sharpen a saw is to use a file or needle file. Usually 2 types are used - round and flat. The larger the chain pitch, the larger the diameter of the file or needle file. And the flat one can be of any size, because it is used as a limiter. Be sure to use a holder that is designed to hold a round file. With its help, filing will become correct, since the sharpening angle will be maintained. The sharpening angle varies for different types of saws from 25 to 35 degrees.

The sequence of work is as follows:

Install the file holder. Place the arrows on the bar parallel to the tire and check the sharpening angle. The upper blade is sharpened at an angle of 30°. We sharpen in the forward direction. Movements should be light and not sudden

It is important to remember that each tooth is sharpened the same number of times.

Experts recommend sharpening one side first and then moving on to the other. The negative side of this method is that if the sharpening angle is chosen incorrectly, the chain will be pulled to the side during operation. And this negatively affects the result of work and the functionality of the chainsaw in the future.

Professional sharpening on a machine

Sharpening on a professional machine is the most desirable, because it is distinguished by the accuracy of the work. In addition, you don’t need to make any effort to sharpen, the machine will do everything itself. To ensure accurate sharpening, you must use the included rulers and protractors. However, purchasing a machine will not be cheap. You can save money by contacting a specialized woodworking workshop.

Sharpening with a grinder

Sharpening with a grinder is not recommended for beginners, as it requires a lot of experience and skill. If you choose the wrong angle, you can easily ruin the chain, damaging the cutting elements. There are two ways to sharpen using a grinder. The first involves removing the chain from the chainsaw. The master fixes the grinder motionless and operates only with a chain, bringing each link separately.

In the second method, sharpening is performed directly on the chainsaw

It is very important to choose the right disc - it must have rounded edges. It is important that the saw is securely fixed and does not move while sharpening

Correct sharpening angle values

The sharpening angle of chainsaw chains is not a constant value and does not depend on the manufacturer or model of equipment. It is selected taking into account what kind of tree you will be dealing with. You can choose some average value, but the cutting efficiency may be ineffective. For this reason, it is necessary to choose the correct value, taking into account the specific type of wood.

Read also: How to cut with a cutter for beginners

If we are talking about solid wood, including those trees that have been “frozen” for a long time, it has a high resistivity. In this regard, the sharpening angle should be reduced. This will practically avoid the occurrence of vibrations, and the movement of the chain will be softer. The minimum value is 25°.

For soft types of wood, the sharpening angle can be increased, but not more than 35°. This will significantly improve productivity. As for the sharpening angle of the chainsaw chain for rip sawing, the value is 10°. In this case, the cut will be as smooth as possible, and equipment vibration will be minimized. Knowing these features, you can move on to considering different sharpening methods.

Mechanized sharpening on a machine

Sharpening on a machine is much more convenient and does not require highly qualified performers. Such machines are electrically driven and equipped with special grinding wheels.

For a household workshop, it is worth purchasing compact units that do not take up much storage space and are suitable for quick and high-quality sharpening of chainsaw chains from different manufacturers. Such units should operate from a stationary power supply with a voltage of 220 V, have low power consumption (up to 100 W) and be easy to install on the circuit.

When choosing a machine, you need to pay attention to the following technological characteristics:

• Possibility of processing teeth with different thicknesses of the upper edge and different chain pitches;
• The ability to adjust the sharpening angle, within the limits specified earlier;
• Availability of replaceable grinding discs;
• Constant value of the cutting width.

The design of the machine is simple and includes a drive electric motor, a shaft with a seat for a sharpening disk, a handle with controls, and a device for attaching the machine to a chain. Adjustment of the force of pressing on the sharpened element is ensured by a spring clamp. Modern models of sharpening machines are equipped with a differentiated clamp, which provides for self-centering of the product on the machine. For ease of work, there is a measuring scale on the clamp body.

Optionally, the machines can also be equipped with a miniature electric light bulb, which illuminates the working area, as well as a hydraulic booster, which facilitates sharpening.

Safety of work is ensured by a folding safety shield.

Manual method

This is the simplest and slowest method for sharpening chain teeth. However, the method is good when sharpening is done on site in the forest. Why not carry a whole machine with you all the time?! But here it’s worth being more precise - we don’t mean one tool, but a whole set, which includes:

• flat file;
• round file;
• sample.

Each of them performs their duties. The main purpose of the flat tool is to sharpen the depth gauge.

A round file already performs the main operation, making the cutting edges sharper. In this case, each chain requires a certain tool diameter:

• pitch ¼ inch - 4 mm;
• pitch 0.325 – 4.8 mm;
• pitch 3/8 inch - 5.2 mm;
• pitch 0.404 - 5.5 mm.

For Picco chains, which are equipped with Shtil 180 chainsaws with 3/8 and quarter inch pitches, a file with a diameter of 4 mm is also suitable. It is important to hold it correctly. With respect to the vertical plane, the file must be positioned strictly perpendicular to the chain, and with respect to the horizontal plane - at a slight angle (about 30°). The specific sharpening angle is selected depending on the needs, but within 25-35°.

Unlike sharpening a chainsaw chain on a machine, the angle here can be set using a template, which is considered a useful assistant. For this purpose, it is equipped with two slots: SOFT/S (for soft wood) and HARD/H (for hard wood). The template must be secured above the chain, which gives it the privileges of a limiter.

Just keep in mind that this method is not intended for permanent use, but serves only as a straightening of the blades. Using a file too often will wear out the chain over time, and the teeth themselves will be sharpened unevenly.

Adviсe

For those who are just learning how to sharpen a chainsaw chain themselves, it will be useful to take into account a few basic tips for carrying out this process correctly.

1. Whenever manipulating the chain, the engine must be turned off; under no circumstances should you sharpen the chainsaw chain while the saw is running.
2. Before sharpening, the chain must be tightened to normal working condition.
3. The saw chain brake must be set to the working position when straightening it.
4. When sharpening the chain, gloves must be used to protect against cuts from the sharp edges of the teeth.
5. Maintaining the same number of file movements is guaranteed to ensure uniform grinding of all teeth.

Below you can see how to sharpen a chainsaw chain with a file in the video; it describes in detail what files you need to use. How to best position the chainsaw. And of course, how should the sharpening tool be positioned in relation to the saw bar.

Finally, I would like to note the main advantages of sharpening with a file, compared to straightening the chain in a machine.

Bulgarian is a good alternative

Professional loggers consider this method primitive and labor-intensive. It is used as a last resort, since the angle grinder cannot be fixed to the template. For this reason, it is very difficult to achieve control over maintaining a constant sharpening angle and depth.

The tire is securely fixed in a vice to prevent its mobility during operation. You should not attach a new cutting disc to the grinder; it is better to use an old circle with a thickness of 1.5-2 mm.

It is better for beginners not to use this method at all - they will be safer. There is a risk of causing serious injury to yourself. In addition, there is no way to do this without skills in working with such equipment.

Sharpening with a grinder

This method is less common. This is due to the fact that safety requirements are increased here. But some saw users use it. To sharpen a chain with a grinder, the saw bar must be clamped in a vice so that when the saw brake is off, the chain can move freely. The following actions are performed:

1. A control tooth (the first one to be sharpened) is selected.
2. The saw brake is set to working position.
3. The grinder turns on and sharpening begins. It is important that the wheel on the grinder is a sharpening wheel and not a cutting wheel.

The disadvantage of this sharpening is that it is very difficult to maintain the required edge angle. It is equally important that there is a risk of damage by the grinder disc to the eye of the link, which may result in the chain breaking during the sawing process.

Despite the fact that sharpening with a grinder is quite feasible, you should still not abuse it. It is better to use the manufacturer’s recommendations and use only certified chain sharpening devices - this will save time and money. Sharpening a chain is not such a complicated process as it might seem at first glance. Even if the first time you manage to do it not very well, do not be upset: rest assured that over time you will gain the necessary skills.

Modern method

Almost every non-professional is concerned with the question, what is the angle of sharpening the chainsaw chain on the machine? You won’t be able to use a file all the time, it’s difficult to use an angle grinder, and for beginners this procedure is downright dangerous. There’s nothing you can do about it; you have to use machines that can be either mechanical or electric.

You will have to work for an “eternity” with a manual machine, but you get pleasure from using an electric analogue. Today there are a wide variety of models to choose from that provide

• correct sharpening angle;
• high level of work quality;
• high sharpening speed.

It is also worth noting that sharpening is carried out evenly on all links. All you need to do is turn on the equipment, set the desired angle, enjoy the spectacle, or do other things. The cost of such machines varies from 2 to 4 thousand rubles. But the most important thing is that it will not be difficult to determine the sharpening angle of the Shtil chainsaw chain on the machine.

Although fiddling around with manual equipment is a very lengthy process, it costs several times less. In appearance, the machine resembles a bow saw, only instead of a blade there is a round file. The smallest tooth is also used as the basis. In this case, two or three movements are enough for sharpening, after which you can move on to the next link. If necessary, process the limiter - change the file (round is replaced by a flat one).

Electric and manual sharpening machines

High-quality sharpening of a chain with a file is not always possible during long-term operation of the mechanism without regular maintenance or when the teeth often come into contact with stones and other hard parts of the ground, during which they become significantly deformed and lose their shape. In this case, electric and manual machines are used. The former are equipped with sharpening wheels driven by electric current, while the latter are a type of mechanical device.

The operating principle of manual sharpening machines is reminiscent of a bow-type saw, in which instead of a blade, a round file of the appropriate length is attached. A rather intricate device for mechanical adjustment makes it possible to position the tool with the desired orientation to the smallest control tooth, which is sharpened in several movements.

The sharpening angle parameters are saved when correcting the next cutting element, thus, not only sharpening is carried out quickly and efficiently, but also the chain is straightened to a uniform tooth size. To process the limiter with a manual machine, it is necessary to insert a flat tool instead of a round file.

The use of an electric machine greatly facilitates and simplifies the process of performing work. The sharpening angle on this unit is ensured by a precise adjustment system, which allows you to bring the grinding wheel with a correct orientation directly to the cutting edge of the surface being processed, while the tire is automatically fixed.

Sharpening rules

Similar sections of each link must be treated uniformly. Otherwise, if there is an excessive selection of metal in any one area, then this ultimately leads to imbalance, unevenness and jerking during operation of the chainsaw. The load on the mechanism increases significantly, which in turn threatens to break the chain.

Therefore, the operation should be carried out at the required angle for sharpening the chain of the Shtil 180 chainsaw (as well as any other tool) with extreme caution, avoiding excessive force. The procedure itself is performed sequentially, that is, you need to start on one side, then finish on the other.

In some cases, you can observe that one cutting edge (or several) has become more sharply ground. This happens when the chain hits a knot on its way, which occurs when cutting hardwood. Then it is necessary to determine which of the teeth has worn down the most and use it to equalize all the other links.

After sharpening is completed, you should blow the chain with air from a compressor or pump, and then place it in a container with engine oil for a short time. Usually few people do this, but it will be useful for the chain.

Chainsaw Sthil MS 180 chain: types, sharpening, tension….

Stihl MS180 chainsaw will fit chains with a 3/8-inch pitch and a groove width (drive link thickness) of 1.3 mm. How to choose a chain for the most popular chainsaw in our country? It should be based on your needs. If you need a thin and high-quality cut and you have a guide rail with a groove of 1.1 mm, then install PMMC3. The saw comes with a chain for a standard 35 cm bar marked PMC3 . And if you need a chain with increased strength characteristics, then install a Picco Duro (PD3)

Useful tips

Some helpful tips will help keep your equipment in working order and eliminate the risk of injury. Of course, it is necessary to know the correct angle of sharpening the chain of a Shtil chainsaw. But timely tire care is also important:

1. It is necessary to control the chain tension. Especially if the chainsaw tilts to one side during operation. Poor tension can pose a threat to humans.
2. Conduct sharpening in a timely manner, without putting everything on the back burner. It may be expensive, but it is better to give preference to electrical equipment.
3. Regularly lubricate the entire chain, otherwise it may fly off (its speed is about 100 km/h). Everyone will draw their own conclusions.
4. Do not use used motor oil or any product of questionable quality. You should only choose specialized lubricants. As the best remedy - autol.

Before you start using a chainsaw, the chain should be broken in. Let it run at minimum speed for 40-50 seconds. The lubricant will reach every part, and the chains with the sprocket will heat up a little and rub against each other.

All this expert advice should not be ignored if you want to remain safe and sound!

Consequences of working with an unsharpened chainsaw

A dull chain causes inconvenience to the user. Work becomes more and more difficult, and then it becomes completely impossible. Sooner or later the saw will stop performing its function. Cutting even a thin board will require great physical effort.

Negative consequences also occur for the instrument itself:

• Increased fuel consumption
  . To cut a log, the blade makes more revolutions. Fuel consumption increases up to 30%.
• Accelerated wear
  . The tire and chain itself wear out the fastest. The increased load also accelerates the wear of all internal mechanisms of the chainsaw.
• Decrease in efficiency
  . You have to work longer and with greater physical effort to achieve results.
• Risk of injury
  . The saw often jams and the chain breaks. Increases the risk of operator injury.