Repair: why the walk-behind tractor stalls under load, shoots into the muffler, works intermittently, and more

Why does the walk-behind tractor stall when the air damper is open?

The carburetor air damper, in other words “choke”, is necessary for normal engine starting and its further stable operation.
If the damper is not adjusted correctly, for example, when it is not completely closed, the engine may not start at all. One of the common reasons for the incorrect operation of the power unit is air leaks. The reason for this may be depressurization of the carburetor. Check the spark plugs, tighten them if necessary, tighten the connecting bolts. If this does not help, replace the gaskets.

The engine will stall even with the air damper open. You can adjust it until it moves normally, without shifting or snagging.

Why does the Neva walk-behind tractor work jerkily when idling - a defective series of Neva MB23 walk-behind tractors

The direct search query that I took from my statistics for my blog is “Why does the Neva walk-behind tractor work jerkily when idling.”
Since I wrote an article about my Neva walk-behind tractor and why it works in jerks, people with similar problems come from searching. I assure you that there are many such people who bought the Neva walk-behind tractor. The whole point is that this is how walk-behind tractors began to be assembled. It seems that until 2021 (this is approximately, I can’t say for sure, since I myself bought a Neva walk-behind tractor in 2022 and encountered this problem in 1 year of use), but judging by the videos on YouTube, many MB2 Neva models have been working for 10 years and don't know the problems.

Don’t be alarmed if your New Neva mb23 walk-behind tractor or similar starts working in jerks (waves) at idle and not only (this is also noticeable during operation - it also works in jerks or waves) - this can be treated, but you will most likely have to remove the carburetor.

I won’t write about cleaning the air filter, spark plugs, bad gasoline - you need to do all this first and, if it doesn’t help, remove the carburetor. For an inexperienced user, this is, of course, not easy to do. In this case, it may be better to invite a knowledgeable friend.

I myself bought a walk-behind tractor for the first time and ran into this problem. On a new walk-behind tractor, the EX27 engine (or EX17, it doesn’t matter) runs intermittently for the 2nd year of use. How so. The new walk-behind tractor and the running-in did not go well!! How is this possible? Now I’ll explain everything and tell you the main problem.

Search for the Dvigatel channel on YouTube and you will find many videos about the Neva walk-behind tractor, carburetor and cleaning. For about 3 years I removed the carburetor, I even removed it more - 4-5 times to clean and wash it. I put it in place and for about a season (spring - autumn) it more or less worked fine for me.

By late autumn, when the temperature was about 5-10 degrees, small pops appeared in the muffler and small jerks and gas reverberations, and the following spring this was noticeable even more strongly. And again I had to remove the carburetor. At first, I actually filled it with not very good gasoline - many people said so, and of course I thought that the carburetor was clogged - that's why I washed it.

But I was surprised when the unstable operation of the Neva walk-behind tractor repeated itself again. I took off the carburetor - and everything was clean, there wasn’t much dirt visible, because a year ago I just cleaned it, and also installed a fuel filter. The carburetor cannot clog so quickly. By the way, remember, I shouldn’t have flushed the carburetor at all, even if I filled it with not very good gasoline.

And most importantly, I filled it with clean gasoline, without any debris. That is, the carburetor inside was a little covered in yellow resin, but not in debris, and, probably, with other gasoline the resin would have dissolved later. Later I began to fill in good, different gasoline - but the situation still repeated itself. And the filter is in place, and the carburetor is clean - what else does it need?

Problems in the ignition system

If there is no spark, as already mentioned, you should carefully check the battery. When everything is fine with it, the contacts and the quality of the insulation are examined. In many cases, the lack of sparks is due to a clogged ignition system. If everything is clean there, look at the contact connecting the main electrode and the spark plug cap. And then they check the electrodes sequentially, assessing whether there is a gap between them.

A special feeler gauge will allow you to determine whether this gap corresponds to the recommended value (0.8 mm). Remove carbon deposits accumulated on the insulator and metal parts. Check the spark plug to ensure there are no oil stains. All of them must be removed. By pulling out the starter cable, dry the cylinder. If all these steps do not help, you will have to change the spark plugs.

Why does the walk-behind tractor start and stall?

If the equipment starts and immediately stalls, this may indicate the following problems:

1. There may be a large distance between the electrodes, problems with contacts in the electronics, or the spark plug may be dirty. First, the candle is cleaned. Then the integrity of the wires is checked. The normal distance between the electrodes is set;
2. The carburetor may become dirty, too little fuel is supplied. Sometimes it is necessary to change the fuel and reduce the amount of oil. The carburetor is dismantled, disassembled and thoroughly cleaned;
3. If the unit does not pick up speed, this indicates a lack of fuel. Gasoline may simply spill. The defect must be eliminated or the fuel tank replaced;
4. The walk-behind tractor does not develop speed when the gearbox breaks down. This is indicated by the presence of extraneous sound from the gearbox. The malfunction can be eliminated by replacing the oil that lubricates the components.

Why does the walk-behind tractor shoot into the muffler?

Often, when working with an agricultural implement, loud, uncharacteristic sounds are clearly audible from its muffler. At the same time, the walk-behind tractor also smokes heavily and stalls. To be able to fix a problem with your own hands, you first need to determine its essence.

Most often, a walk-behind tractor shoots into the muffler due to a number of the following problems:

• There is an excess of engine oil in the fuel mixture - in this case, you need to drain the remaining fuel, wash the fuel pump and hoses, and fill in new fuel with less oil;
• Incorrectly set ignition - if the mechanism works late, this leads to the appearance of atypical shots, which are clearly audible in the muffler area. In such a situation, you should immediately set the correct gap between the electrodes of the walk-behind tractor's ignition system;
• Incomplete combustion of fuel in the engine cylinder. Repairing a walk-behind tractor engine in this case involves disassembling the piston group, thoroughly washing and drying the engine cylinder, as well as adjusting the walk-behind tractor carburetor.

Repairing all of the above breakdowns does not require special skills or extensive experience. The most important thing is to act strictly according to the operating instructions for the agricultural unit.

Important nuances of servicing Cascade walk-behind tractors

If there are inappropriately sized gaps between the valves (pushers), then the ignition needs to be adjusted. If the gap is too small, it can cause the valve and motor to overheat. If the distance is too large, then the friction of the gas distribution system increases. This disrupts the process of filling the cylinders with the mixture necessary for operation. Sometimes, the condition of the spark plugs can become a problem with fuel entering the carburetor; they need to be checked and monitored regularly.

Of course, pay attention to the wheels. Monitor the condition of tires and supports, do not allow uneven load, try to ensure that each wheel has an equal load factor

Auto mechanic, specializes in agricultural equipment

If there is no spark, then the entire electronic ignition circuit of the Cascade walk-behind tractor should be checked. The walk-behind tractor itself is one of those equipment options that require ignition adjustment. Why there is no spark on the walk-behind tractor may depend on various factors. For this reason, you will need to configure the entire ignition system step by step.

Fuel emissions

If an attempt to start the walk-behind tractor fails, this means that there is a malfunction in the engine or starting system. To determine the source of the problem, first check the spark plugs.

If the spark plugs are dry, this means that the fuel mixture is not entering the engine cylinders. There may be several reasons:

• There is no fuel in the tank;
• The fuel supply valve is closed;
• The hole in the gas tank plug is clogged;
• Foreign objects enter the fuel supply system.

To eliminate problems with fuel supply, you must:

1. Fill the walk-behind tractor tank.
2. Open the fuel valve.
3. Clean the drain hole in the gas tank plug.
4. Remove the fuel valve, drain the gasoline from the tank and rinse it with clean gasoline. Then remove the connecting hose located on the carburetor side and blow it out along with the carburetor nozzles without disassembling the latter using the fuel pump.

What malfunctions threaten walk-behind tractors?

A garden walk-behind tractor is a very useful thing in the household. With a good walk-behind tractor, work on personal plots goes much faster. But walk-behind tractors, like other household equipment, sometimes break down.

There are types of breakdowns and malfunctions that are specific to walk-behind tractors. Some faults can be repaired with your own hands, while with other, more complex ones, it is better to contact service centers so as not to aggravate the situation and damage the walk-behind tractor.

The most common malfunctions of garden walk-behind tractors:

• the walk-behind tractor stalls under load;
• The walk-behind tractor works intermittently;
• the walk-behind tractor smokes, stalls, the muffler makes unusual sounds;
• the walk-behind tractor does not start;
• The walk-behind tractor starts, but quickly stalls;
• The walk-behind tractor stalls when it heats up.

Walk-behind tractor transmission malfunctions

Malfunctions of the clutch itself depend on its type. If the walk-behind tractor has a belt drive that acts as a clutch, slippage may occur if the drive belt or pulley is oily, the belt is not tensioned or is too worn. The ways to correct these problems are obvious - clean the transmission elements from dirt, tighten or replace the belt.

In a dry disc clutch, the cause of slippage may be the presence of oil contamination on the driven and driving discs. It should be removed by washing the discs with gasoline and drying them.

Regardless of the type of clutch (dry or oil), slippage can be caused by wear of the friction layer of the discs, weakening of the compression spring, or lack of clearance between the pressure element and the release bearing. The method of correction is determined by the nature of the malfunction.

The clutch does not disengage completely. In this case, you should also start by checking the tension of the cable going from the control handle to the clutch.

Incomplete disengagement of the clutch can also be caused by deformation of the friction discs, their jamming on the splines, or non-compliance with the required parameters of the characteristics of the oil poured into the clutch housing. The latter applies to couplings operating in an oil bath. It is necessary to replace deformed discs, eliminate the causes of their jamming on the splines, and change the oil.

Increased noise in the gearbox (gearbox). Noise in the gearbox can occur due to a lack of oil in it or a discrepancy between its quality and the required parameters - brand and cleanliness. It is necessary to add oil to the walk-behind tractor gearbox or replace it.

Transmission components can make noise due to the banal failure to tighten fasteners. You need to look through and tighten them.

Most often, noise occurs due to worn gears and bearings. In this case, they are harbingers of more serious breakdowns. Timely repair of the walk-behind tractor gearbox, which consists of replacing worn parts, will help to avoid them.

Does not turn on, turns off spontaneously, or is difficult to change gears. These malfunctions can occur for a number of reasons:

• Due to wear of the parts involved in gear shifting. Usually, wear (rolling) of the ends of the engaged gears occurs, which leads to incomplete activation and self-disengagement of speeds. In this case, it is necessary to disassemble the walk-behind tractor gearbox and correct the gear teeth by grinding or, if the wear is too great, replace them.
• Due to abrasion of the shaft splines, as well as displacement of the shafts in the axial direction due to wear of bearings and retaining rings. The axial position of the shafts can be adjusted by installing additional locking rings. Excessively worn bearings and rings must be replaced.
• Due to incorrect clutch adjustment, which can lead to difficulty shifting gears. The clutch is not fully depressed (disengaged). This can also be caused by an inexperienced operator who releases the clutch lever too early when changing gears. You need to adjust the clutch and learn how to shift gears correctly.

The gearbox is a rather complex unit. If the operation and design of the walk-behind tractor is a complete secret to the user, you should not start repairing it yourself. It is better to entrust this work to those for whom servicing and repairing machines is a professional matter.

Transmission components get hot. Among the main reasons for this malfunction are worn bearings, insufficient level of transmission oil in the crankcases, and inconsistency of its condition with the required parameters. Corrective measures: replace bearings, add or change oil.

Oil leak from the gearbox (gearbox). This occurs when the bearing seals are worn or incorrectly installed, the caps are not tightened or the gaskets under them are damaged, the air valve (breather) of the oil filler cap is clogged, or oil is poured into the crankcase above normal.

Instability of the walk-behind tractor when moving (yaw). This pattern of movement of the walk-behind tractor is caused by different pressures in the right and left wheels, uneven wear of the tire tread, and incorrect adjustment of the towed devices, in particular the plow.

Increased vibration of the walk-behind tractor. Increased vibration usually occurs when attachments (mills, rotary mowers, etc.) are incorrectly adjusted or loosened. If vibrations occur, you should immediately stop the walk-behind tractor and put the trailing devices in order - secure the cutters or cutting segments of the rotary mower, replace them if they are worn out or broken.

The article lists only the most common faults. The practice of operating walk-behind tractors is replete with a much wider list of faults - both atypical ones, which are sometimes very difficult to diagnose, and those whose nature and location raise no doubt.

If you cannot fix the walk-behind tractor malfunctions on your own, the only option left is to contact a service center for the maintenance and repair of walk-behind tractors.

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A walk-behind tractor is a technique that has many functions and is a faithful and indispensable assistant on any plot of land. With the help of additional attachments, such a unit performs many different jobs. With prolonged use of this or that equipment, it begins to fail. If maintenance is carried out on time, malfunctions may appear only due to wear and tear of parts.

A frequently asked question among users of such equipment is “why does the walk-behind tractor stall under load.” In most cases, it turns out that the problem is in the engine. It is better to entrust troubleshooting of the walk-behind tractor to a specialist, but if you also understand this matter, you can repair it yourself.

What breakdowns can cause engine failure?

There are other breakdowns that make it impossible to start the engine in winter. Among them, the following stand out:

• gasoline that was not drained from the tank for the summer;
• the throttle valve is in the wrong position;
• cheap motor oil is used;
• the carburetor does not work;
• problem with the ignition system.

Gasoline that remains in the fuel tank after several months of inactivity is no longer usable, so the snow blower will not work on it. The octane number drops, all the necessary additives evaporate. The problem can be solved very simply: you need to change the fuel, to do this, drain the old one and fill it with new one.

Each instruction for starting the equipment indicates in what position the throttle valve should be. If this condition is not met by the user, then it is also impossible to get the motor to work, since there is no required air flow. Even if the equipment starts, engine failure is not far off, since it begins to experience a load several times higher.

Poor quality oil is also the reason why the engine not only does not start, but can also fail. As a result, expensive repairs will be required in the future, since the main elements work with great frictional force, and without lubrication they simply wear out.

If none of the above is observed, then you should check the contacts. A break in the wiring or an incorrect gap at the coil leads to the absence of the necessary spark, and accordingly, ignition of the combustible mixture also does not occur.

We must not forget about the carburetor - one of the most important components in the design of a snow blower. He is responsible for supplying and preparing the combustible mixture. It is necessary to regularly clean the unit from carbon deposits and prevent dust from accumulating in it.

For information on how to properly start a snow blower, see below.

How to start a snow blower? For many, the question will seem strange, because there is nothing easier than following the instructions that come with the purchased equipment. Buyers do exactly the opposite. First they try to start the car, they break it, then they fix it. To avoid such incidents, let's figure out how to start a snow blower.

What to do if the cylinder block engine does not start?

If the walk-behind tractor does not have hot turns, fault diagnosis is carried out in the following sequence:

• After several unsuccessful starting attempts, inspect the spark plug as described above. If possible, it is better to replace it with a new one immediately to completely eliminate the problem from now on;
• Check the compression and vacuum levels in the gas tank;
• In a dark room to see if the wiring is sparking;
• Make sure a spark forms when heated. In addition to the spark plug, a faulty ignition coil can also prevent sparks.

Other reasons for refusal include:

• Lack or incorrect filling of oil, due to which the triggered level sensor blocks the operation of the engine part;
• Failure of the valve in the fuel tank, which is supposed to maintain gasoline pressure. As a result, its liquid content does not enter the carburetor.

Repairing chassis, especially their powertrain, is a demanding business that requires literacy and good dexterity. This applies not only to domestic favorites. Motoblocks Grass, Cascade, Agro, but also imported ones, for example, Honda. But this does not mean that repairing them yourself is impossible. With minimal knowledge and following our recommendations above, you can solve any problems at home.

Source

Motoblock. This is a useful economic unit that greatly simplifies land and home operations. Like any other piece of equipment, units can break. But it is quite possible to repair a walk-behind tractor engine with your own hands, following simple recommendations.

Difficulty starting

Difficulties during startup indicate a malfunction of components and elements. The success of repair work depends on the accuracy of the diagnostics. If deficiencies are found, they repair the diesel walk-behind tractor. Service and minor repairs can be carried out on your own. You will need a set of keys, a locksmith mechanism and skillful hands.

At the fuel preparation stage, the following incidents are likely:

• a lightweight filter does not let air in;
• the hole in the tank lid is boarded up;
• the fuel supply channel is clogged;
• The carburetor broke down.

After a series of unsuccessful launches

If the candle is dry, it means that fuel is not entering the combustion chamber. Let us perform several operations one by one to restore the supply system:

• drain old gasoline;
• wash the tank;
• clean the special filter from dirt;
• clean the fuel supply hose;
• clean the carburetor jets;
• fill the tank with the cleanest fuel;
• open the tap;
• Clean the breathing channel in the tire.

Engine won't start

- If the engine is tilted

, must be placed horizontally.

— Fuel may not be supplied to the carburetor

. The fuel system needs to be disassembled and purged with air.

— The filter may be clogged

. The filter needs to be replaced or cleaned.

— The outlet hole in the gas tank cap may be clogged

. Needs cleaning.

- Perhaps it's the candle

. You need to check the connection of the wires, the engine stop buttons, remove the spark plug and clean it. Replace if necessary.

— Possible magneto failure

. Replace.

Main malfunctions of walk-behind tractors

Diesel and gasoline engines have different motor resources. For the former, the normal figure is 4000 m/h, but the latter are capable of providing only 1500 m/h. Despite this, diesel models of walk-behind tractors are not in high demand. After all, both when purchased and during operation they are much more expensive. Therefore, most likely, you are working with a walk-behind tractor equipped with a gasoline (carburetor) engine.

All breakdowns that may occur during the operation of agricultural mini-equipment can be divided into two categories:

1. Engine faults:

• startup problems;
• malfunctions.

1. Malfunctions of other components and mechanisms:

• improper clutch operation;
• breakdowns in the gearbox;
• problems with the chassis;
• control and automation malfunctions;
• malfunctions of walk-behind tractor systems (cooling, lubrication, etc.).

Read also: How to check verticality with a level

In many ways, the success of repairing a suddenly broken machine depends on the correctness of the diagnosis. As for maintenance, it is carried out precisely in order to identify small faults that will later lead to serious ones.

Do-it-yourself walk-behind tractor repair

Most models consist of the same parts, so you can repair the main components yourself.

Figure 1. Standard drawing of a walk-behind tractor

Each walk-behind tractor consists of a base frame, a gasoline or diesel engine, a fuel tank, a rotor for attaching cutters, wheels and a bracket for fixing attachments

The most important component is, of course, the engine, the successful operation of which will determine the operation of the equipment (Figure 1). In addition, modern models have fuel supply, cooling, ignition and gas distribution systems, and the occurrence of malfunctions in them can also lead to the unit stopping operation

Principle of operation

The main function of the walk-behind tractor is to loosen the soil using special cutters that are attached to the frame of the device.

In addition, the equipment can be used to loosen rows in the process of growing agricultural crops, and special attachments are useful for harvesting. Simple models (cultivators) consist of several wheels and handles that are used to control the equipment. The handles contain the buttons necessary for control. More powerful and modern models are mini-tractors without a cabin. In this case, control is carried out by buttons and pedals located on the dashboard.

Types of walk-behind tractors

Despite the fact that walk-behind tractors are produced by a wide variety of manufacturers, all such equipment is usually divided into types depending on weight and power (Figure 2).

According to this criterion, walk-behind tractors are:

• Ultralight – weighing up to 15 kg;
• Light (about 40 kg);
• Medium – from 45 to 60 kg;
• Heavy (more than 60 kg).

Figure 2. Main types of equipment and attachments As a rule, all types of equipment are equipped with an internal combustion engine with a power of 1.5 to 10 horsepower. This is necessary so that even an ultra-light model can successfully cope with loosening the soil in areas with heavy and dense soils.

Malfunctions of gasoline and diesel garden walk-behind tractors

A garden walk-behind tractor is a very useful thing in the household. With a good walk-behind tractor, work on personal plots goes much faster. But walk-behind tractors, like other household equipment, sometimes break down.

The most common malfunctions of garden walk-behind tractors:

• the walk-behind tractor stalls under load;
• The walk-behind tractor works intermittently;
• the walk-behind tractor smokes, stalls, the muffler makes unusual sounds;
• the walk-behind tractor does not start;
• The walk-behind tractor starts, but quickly stalls;
• The walk-behind tractor stalls when it heats up.

Malfunction: walk-behind tractor stalls under load

If the walk-behind tractor operates normally for a few minutes and then stalls, the cause is usually a failure in the fuel supply or problems in the ignition system.

To find out what is the cause of the malfunction of the walk-behind tractor, you must first check how the fuel is supplied:

• take out the spark plug and inspect it - if it is dry, it means there is not enough fuel;
• check whether there is enough fuel in the gas tank of the walk-behind tractor;
• make sure that the fuel tap is open - a closed tap can be a simple reason that the walk-behind tractor stalls.

If the problem is a malfunction of a gasoline walk-behind tractor in the ignition system, it must be re-adjusted as follows:

• remove the cover protecting the ignition system;
• turn the engine flywheel until the contacts in the magneto open;
• using a feeler gauge, measure the distance from the anvil to the hammer;
• turn the flywheel until the piston is compressed to maximum;
• turn the flywheel again until a knock appears, indicating the operation of the overrunning clutch;
• turn the flywheel in the other direction so that its mark coincides with the mark on the body of the walk-behind tractor;
• set the distance from the interrupting contact to the cam to 0.3 mm;
• fix the cam with the screw located above the element;
• install the cover into the walk-behind tractor body.

If the adjustment is made correctly, the walk-behind tractor will not stall during operation.

Malfunction: the walk-behind tractor operates jerkily, intermittently or at reduced power

If a walk-behind tractor with a gasoline or diesel engine begins to work intermittently, you must immediately turn off the unit and begin troubleshooting.

Continuing to work with a faulty walk-behind tractor means leading it to more serious breakdowns.

What to do:

• if the engine of a gasoline walk-behind tractor makes reverse movements, it is necessary to rinse the pump and hoses for supplying fuel and replace the fuel with a higher quality one;
• when the walk-behind tractor operates jerkily due to incomplete warming up of the engine, you need to turn off the engine, let it cool completely, start it and warm it up for ten minutes;
• if engine power has dropped, you need to check and clean the filter system;
• If the ignition magneto wears out, the part must be replaced with a new one.

Malfunction: the walk-behind tractor smokes and stalls, the muffler makes unusual sounds

Possible causes of the malfunction:

• too much motor oil in the fuel;
• the ignition is set incorrectly;
• The fuel in the engine cylinder does not burn completely.

Troubleshooting methods:

• if there is excess oil, drain the fuel, flush the fuel pump and hose system, and add new fuel;
• check that the gap between the electrodes is set correctly;
• if it becomes obvious that the fuel is not completely burned, disassemble the piston system, wash and dry the cylinder, and adjust the carburetor correctly.

Malfunction: the walk-behind tractor starts, but quickly stalls

This malfunction occurs if there are problems with the contacts. What to do:

• clean the candle;
• check the integrity of the wires;
• set the correct distance between the electrodes.

Malfunction: the walk-behind tractor stalls when heated

This problem occurs due to excess air entering the carburetor. In case of such a malfunction, the throttle trigger should be squeezed halfway. After starting the engine, you need to give it a good gas before starting work.

If you cannot cope with the malfunctions of the garden walk-behind tractor, the walk-behind tractor stalls, the walk-behind tractor does not start, contact the Alfa-Rost walk-behind tractor repair shop in Rostov-on-Don. We guarantee high-quality repairs of gasoline walk-behind tractors using original components, which are always available in our warehouse.

Walk-behind tractor engine is difficult to start when hot

The question of why the motor of a walk-behind tractor stalls when heated is quite simple to solve. The whole essence of the problem lies in the excess air supplied to the carburetor of the walk-behind tractor. Part of it is mixed with a mixture of gasoline and motor oil, and the second part cools the carburetor. As a result, the carburetor temperature becomes much lower than the temperature of the unit’s engine. This problem is observed only during the operation of the walk-behind tractor. When its engine is turned off, the carburetor, on the contrary, is heated by the hot walls of the engine.

As the carburetor of the walk-behind tractor heats up, the remaining fuel begins to actively evaporate, filling all the voids in the walk-behind tractor, including the air filter and the intake manifold. This leads to the complete disappearance of fuel, which is why the walk-behind tractor will not start when the engine is hot.

To fix this problem, it is necessary to follow a certain algorithm every time you start the walk-behind tractor “hot”. Your main task is to ensure that the mixture combines so that the engine can start. To do this you will need:

1. When starting a hot engine, squeeze the throttle trigger halfway;
2. Do not try to press the gas trigger over and over again, otherwise you will only aggravate the situation, since when you press the gas trigger frequently, the fuel pump will supply new portions of fuel to the carburetor, which will lead to flooding of the engine;
3. After several attempts to start with the gas trigger pressed halfway, you will start the engine of the walk-behind tractor, after which you will need to rev it up 2-3 times and continue working.

This procedure will eliminate the increased load on the hot motor, due to which the main parts and mechanisms of the walk-behind tractor will not be subject to excessive wear.

All of the above methods will help to effectively cope with typical breakdowns of the most famous manufacturers of walk-behind tractors. They are equally successfully used by owners of agricultural implements of the Honda, Agro, Cascade and Neva brands.

Auto mechanic, specializes in agricultural equipment

Currently, special equipment is used quite often in agriculture and gardening. Here, equipment such as a walk-behind tractor stands out separately. These devices allow you to quickly and efficiently process the soil. However, like any type of equipment, such equipment can also fail. In this case, you need to consider what to do correctly if the Agro walk-behind tractor is faulty and does not start.

Why does the walk-behind tractor stall under load?

Almost every owner of a walk-behind tractor, regardless of the brand and model of the agricultural machine, has encountered a problem in which the walk-behind tractor starts and stalls after 5 minutes of operation. The main reasons for this breakdown lie in problems with the fuel supply and breakdown of the car’s ignition system.

As practice shows, if a walk-behind tractor stalls during operation, its owner should immediately inspect the parts of the fuel supply system. First of all, unscrew and look at the spark plug - if it is completely dry, this indicates that fuel is not getting into the engine cylinder. After this, you need to make sure that there is a sufficient amount of fuel in the fuel tank. If there is gasoline and there is enough of it for work, inspect the fuel valve - it is quite possible that it is in the closed position. To start the walk-behind tractor, just open the fuel tap and continue working with the unit.

Another reason why the walk-behind tractor starts up and then stalls after 5 minutes of operation is a breakdown of the ignition system. It is quite simple to determine that the unit is faulty for this very reason - look at the spark plugs - if they are wet, it means that the fault has appeared in the ignition system of the walk-behind tractor. The best way out of this situation is to re-adjust the unit’s ignition system. All actions must be performed in this order:

1. Remove the cover that protects the elements of the ignition system;
2. Turn the motor flywheel until the contacts in the magneto open;
3. Using a special feeler gauge, measure the gap between the “anvil” and the “hammer” of the walk-behind tractor’s ignition system;
4. After this, turn the flywheel until the piston of the walk-behind tractor compresses. In this case, the latter must reach its highest point;
5. Turn the flywheel again until you hear a characteristic knock - this means that the overrunning clutch has engaged;
6. Then turn the flywheel in the opposite direction so that the mark on it coincides with the mark on the walk-behind tractor body;
7. Set the gap between the interrupting contact and the cam - it should be 0.3 mm;
8. At the end, fix the cam with a screw located on top of the part and install the protective cover back into the walk-behind tractor body.

Also, the utility unit often stalls when tilted. This indicates an insufficient amount of fuel in the fuel tank. If you put the unit in a horizontal position, pull out the starter cable, and the engine starts, it means that you will need to add gasoline to the tank.

Why does the walk-behind tractor work intermittently?

There are other faults that are worth considering:

1. The walk-behind tractor engine is running backwards. The reason is often the use of bad fuel. It will not be enough to replace the fuel. The pump and fuel supply hoses are washed;
2. The equipment works in jerks. The engine does not warm up completely. You need to turn off the engine and wait for it to cool completely. Then restart it and warm it up for at least ten minutes;
3. The engine does not pull, therefore the engine power decreases. The filter system is checked and cleaned. The problem can be caused by wear of the ignition magneto. In this case, the part is replaced.

Owners of both gasoline and diesel vehicles may encounter such problems. Regardless of the specifics of the breakdown, you must urgently stop using the unit and start fixing the problem.

What malfunctions threaten walk-behind tractors?

A garden walk-behind tractor is a very useful thing in the household. With a good walk-behind tractor, work on personal plots goes much faster. But walk-behind tractors, like other household equipment, sometimes break down.

There are types of breakdowns and malfunctions that are specific to walk-behind tractors. Some faults can be repaired with your own hands, while with other, more complex ones, it is better to contact service centers so as not to aggravate the situation and damage the walk-behind tractor.

The most common malfunctions of garden walk-behind tractors:

• the walk-behind tractor stalls under load;
• The walk-behind tractor works intermittently;
• the walk-behind tractor smokes, stalls, the muffler makes unusual sounds;
• the walk-behind tractor does not start;
• The walk-behind tractor starts, but quickly stalls;
• The walk-behind tractor stalls when it heats up.

Difficulty starting

Difficulties during startup indicate a malfunction of components and elements. The success of repair work depends on the accuracy of the diagnostics. If deficiencies are found, they repair the diesel walk-behind tractor. Service and minor repairs can be carried out on your own. You will need a set of keys, a locksmith mechanism and skillful hands.

At the fuel preparation stage, the following incidents are likely:

• a lightweight filter does not let air in;
• the hole in the tank lid is boarded up;
• the fuel supply channel is clogged;
• The carburetor broke down.

After a series of unsuccessful starts, it is advisable to unscrew the spark plug. The working part can be filled with fuel. In this case, we dry the element, then pump the cylinder through the hole. We twist the candle and start it again.

If the candle is dry, it means that fuel is not entering the combustion chamber. Let us perform several operations one by one to restore the supply system:

• drain old gasoline;
• wash the tank;
• clean the special filter from dirt;
• clean the fuel supply hose;
• clean the carburetor jets;
• fill the tank with the cleanest fuel;
• open the tap;
• Clean the breathing channel in the tire.

Engine power has dropped

It often happens that a previously serviceable walk-behind tractor, which has served for several years, suddenly loses power.

– If the power has dropped after a long period of storage

, perhaps the walk-behind tractor was stored with a wet carburetor and fuel system, which led to boiling. In this case, you can start the engine and let it run, often after these actions the power is restored. If you have the skills, you can disassemble and clean it; if you don’t have the skills, it’s better to contact the service.

– The carburetor may be clogged

. Clean

– Fuel hose is clogged

. Need to blow it out.

– Possible loss of functionality of the crankcase cuff

. Remove the casing and gearbox cover and inspect the cuff.

Read also: How to spell the word CLAY?

– Carbon deposits on the cylinder, muffler

. Clean.

– The air filter is clogged

. Clean.

– No compression

. Change piston rings, cylinder, piston.

Design Features

The design of all snow blowers, regardless of the engine and type of movement, is similar. In addition to the engine, which can be electric or gasoline, there is a bucket. This is a device within which the auger shaft is fixed (if the machine is equipped with an auger). How wide the bucket is determines how much area the snow blower can cover in one pass. An auger is a metal shaft plus screws attached to it. They are attached in the direction of the center of the shaft, as they must rake snow.

The outlet pipe looks like a pipe; it throws snow mass at a distance of three meters. The pipe can be made of metal or plastic. As for the chassis, the snow blower can be on wheels or on tracks. An important part of the snow blower is the rotor, located inside, which crushes the snow and directs it to be discharged towards the outlet pipe.

Why won't the walk-behind tractor start?

Repair of a walk-behind tractor will be successful if you correctly diagnose the walk-behind tractor.

The reasons for unit failure are very different:

• The hole in the gas tank is clogged;
• The fuel supply channels are clogged with debris;
• The air filter blocks the entry of clogged air;
• Carburetor failure.

Gasoline and diesel walk-behind tractors must be carefully prepared for seasonal work.

It is important to make sure that all structural elements are in place and securely fastened

Installed Subaru engines or engines of other brands may not start after a long period of inactivity, especially in winter. Incorrect storage conditions for equipment also have a negative impact.

The following malfunctions may occur:

• The contacts in the electrical wiring have oxidized;
• Water has entered the oil or fuel;
• The integrity of the wire insulation has been compromised;
• Debris has accumulated in the carburetor jets.

Before starting the walk-behind tractor, you need to look at all the connections in the units of the device, check the integrity and connections of the throttle, reverse and clutch cables. If clamps or kinked cables are found, this must be corrected in order to start the unit.

It is necessary to check the amount of oil in the crankcase. Lack of lubrication can negatively affect the piston group. A diesel or gasoline walk-behind tractor may not start if there is not enough oil. Some models have low-level protection installed; if it is not there, you need to constantly monitor the volume of lubricating fluid.

It is important to take into account the quality of the gasoline being poured. The walk-behind tractor must be refilled with the brand recommended by the manufacturer, then the unit will work without interruption

Two-stroke engines operate on separately prepared fuel: gasoline and oil. It is important to maintain a strict ratio of substances.

Video: Motoblock Engine Runs Jerky

If the connections are leaking, tighten the mounting bolts, tighten the spark plugs, and check the integrity of the gaskets between the spark plug heads and the cylinders.

1. Incomplete closing of the carburetor air valve.

To eliminate this problem, it is necessary to ensure the free movement of the damper by checking the quality of the drive. If jams are found, they must be removed.

Compression and carburetor problems

It happens that the launch is carried out, but the process is much more complicated. At the same time, the walk-behind tractor engine is extremely unstable and cannot develop enough power for normal operation.

This may be due to loss of compression, which can be determined by:

• Soot on the working surfaces of the valves, as well as on the seats of the cylinder blocks;
• Intake valve deformation;
• Wear of piston rings.

Diesel or gasoline engines

A motor cultivator is a universal equipment for working on a personal plot. It helps to cultivate the soil between the beds, between the trees. With its help you can easily get rid of weeds. The walk-behind tractor is much more functional equipment due to the fact that any attachments can be attached to it. This is essentially a mini-tractor, potato digger, plow, and cultivator at the same time.

The walk-behind tractor can have a diesel or gasoline engine. The startup in this case will be different, therefore, the cause of the breakdown may be different. Most often, the unit does not start after winter. Staying in a cold and damp room for a long time leads to such unpleasant moments as:

• clogged jets in the carburetor;
• damage to the insulation in the wires;
• oxidation of contacts;
• oil watering.

Before starting the walk-behind tractor for the first time, you must carefully check all the parts. Thus, there should be no clamping of the harness threads, and the lack of oil in the crankcase will lead to damage to the piston system.

The engine may not start due to old oil. This produces white exhaust smoke. In this case, a complete oil change is necessary.

There are units on sale that have protection against insufficient oil level, when it immediately begins to stall. Monitor the oil level carefully.

Also, the service life of a walk-behind tractor depends on the quality of gasoline. You should not refuel your unit with cheap gasoline, which can cause serious damage.

A diesel walk-behind tractor can also present unpleasant surprises immediately after purchase. It may not start due to air that has entered the fuel supply system. To fix it, you need a diesel supply valve, unscrew all connections along the fuel channels. The last step is to purge the nozzle.

Engine block motor malfunctions during operation

Engine components and parts installed on mini-agricultural machinery are subject to significant loads. They can also fail while the device is running, which can lead to serious problems very quickly.

If during operation the engine begins to pick up speed on its own, that is, “straighten out,” most likely this means that the fastening of the governor and thrust levers has become loose. In this case, the user will need to adjust the motor drive.

Sometimes, when the throttle is wide open, the engine does not accelerate when the throttle is pressed, but instead begins to lose power until it comes to a complete stop. This is a clear sign of overheating, so you need to turn off the walk-behind tractor and wait until its components have completely cooled down. After this, you need to check the oil level in the crankcase, and also check the cleanliness of the ribbed surfaces of the blocks and cylinder heads.

Under high loads on the engine, it may seize. There may be several reasons:

• There is not enough oil in the crankcase;
• The nadir is formed on the lower end of the connecting rod;
• The connecting rod or oil cartridge has failed.

If the walk-behind tractor engine is stuck, it will need to be disassembled and checked for the condition of the main components and components: defective, deformed, burnt out, etc., which need to be replaced.

MB-1 walk-behind tractor: operating instructions and do-it-yourself fault repair

Special equipment, such as a walk-behind tractor, is very useful in farming. Due to the fact that walk-behind tractors are maximally balanced in terms of price, cost and performance ratio, they benefit greatly from both tractors and other special equipment.

With its help, you can perform a large number of different operations that take a lot of time and require a lot of effort, using manpower and simple equipment. All areas where a walk-behind tractor can be used no longer evoke disgust and reluctance to work.

In fact, all the work comes down to management - you just need to be present as a driver.

This applies to both modern technology and older models of walk-behind tractors, because over the decades their design, in general, has changed little - weight has decreased, the variety of models has increased, and more advanced materials are used for manufacturing.

But the frame, engine placement and control method remained the same, the attachments, in fact, remained unchanged, the difference can only be external, in insignificant details.

Therefore, the good old walk-behind tractors, whose service life has already exceeded thirty years, are still in service, and do their job year after year. But every year they increasingly need repairs and replacement of parts and components.

After all, any equipment wears out and needs repairs.

And you should pay great attention to this if, for example, you make long trips with a loaded trailer. A seized hub won't be a big problem, but a malfunctioning part of a more complex part like the transmission will be annoying, to say the least.

Therefore, you should familiarize yourself with all the “symptoms” of breakdowns in order to diagnose and prevent a malfunction in time.

Comments

Sozinov Anatoly

hmm. This is the first time I’ve seen bushings spill out like that. and everything is correct. On my own behalf, I would like to add that the washers between the casing and the sprockets need to be changed sometimes, and to ensure that the sprocket shaft is properly tightened, and I drained the oil from the engine and poured it into the gearbox. anyway it will either eject through the plug or leak out through the seals

Alexey, thanks for the advice, I put two washers on both sides under the covers with seals, everything is ok, there is no leakage, everything works.

green gray

Nothing lasts forever, a walk-behind tractor must PLOW under any load, on kalym, earn money for spare parts, pay for itself several times over.

Alexey Efanov

I agree, the unit did just that, PLOWED, earned money and paid off a long time ago, but now you understand that it was possible to do without unnecessary overloads. Why, for example, was it necessary to carry 700 kg of cargo on a trailer and break the chain, when you could make two trips and not break gearbox, sometimes we ourselves look for adventures on our own backsides and sometimes we find them. I advise people that they need to be more careful, but I myself can’t change lanes, even though I know that I need to be more careful, but I do it as always, it’s probably already in the blood.

Alexey Efanov

This gearbox apparently has a ball gearbox, but the new gearboxes have needle gearboxes. I didn’t have to disassemble the new gearbox, so I can’t say anything about the needle gearbox. Try looking for an answer on the Internet.

Like any equipment, the walk-behind tractor requires timely maintenance and repair. And it is advisable to entrust their implementation to specialists who have the necessary tools and equipment and know their job well. However, if you are also familiar with the structure of internal combustion engines and understand the topic of mechanical engineering, then you can do a lot of what may be required to restore the machine’s performance on your own.

Related Posts

Like any equipment, the walk-behind tractor requires timely maintenance and repair. And it is advisable to entrust them to specialists who have the necessary tools and equipment and know their job well. However, if you are also familiar with the design of internal combustion engines and understand the subjects of mechanical engineering, then you can do many things that are necessary to restore the functionality of the car.

Preparing the walk-behind tractor for start-up

In the instructions, manufacturers always indicate how to start the walk-behind tractor correctly. However, not everyone wants to waste time reading long pieces of paper and start work without familiarizing themselves with the operating rules. This is fraught with serious damage. It will not be possible to return equipment that was used for other purposes or broken due to the fault of the owner under warranty. If you never manage to start the engine even after several attempts, the reason may not be a bad part.

To make sure that the walk-behind tractor engine or starting system is faulty, you must try to turn it on, following the instructions exactly. If the reason turns out to be incorrect actions, there will be no need to contact for repairs. Sometimes it happens that the MB does not start and immediately stalls due to a manufacturing defect. In this case, you can safely go to the warranty center to process a return.

When communicating with an employee, it is important to inform that everything was done according to the instructions and a breakdown could not have occurred due to the owner’s fault.

To start the walk-behind tractor:

1. Check the oil level, even if it was filled just a day ago. Sometimes sellers convince you that the required amount of liquid has already been poured into the tank. You can’t trust words, because... An attempt to start a walk-behind tractor without oil will lead to breakdown and will not be accepted under warranty.
2. Fill with fuel. The method for opening the tank varies depending on the model, so you need to read the instructions. For some types of engines, gasoline must be mixed with oil. The proportions are also indicated in the technical book.
3. Open the petrol tap. Before doing this, you must move the pump lever to the “Start” position. The name varies depending on the manufacturer.
4. Pump fuel from the tank using the starter and turn on the ignition. Then you need to pull the starter and move the choke lever to the “Operation” mode. If everything is done correctly, the walk-behind tractor will start.

The described scheme of action is relevant for a gasoline engine without an electric starter, for example the Lifan model. To start a diesel walk-behind tractor, you will have to spend more time. The main problem of such equipment is its instability to frost. When the outside temperature drops, the fuel freezes, so the MB has to be warmed up before starting. The first attempt to turn on may fail if you do not bleed the system with the starter, because Everything inside is airy. Then pump the decompressor several times. Some models indicate the exact time of such preparation. Usually it is enough to do this 5-6 times, and then pull it to the starting position. If all the steps are completed correctly, to start the walk-behind tractor, just press the decompressor and turn on the starter.

vanguard 7.5 unstable engine operation

Dear forum users, please help. I have a Neva walk-behind tractor with a Vanguard 7.5 engine. It started to work unstably. It’s like I’m giving it gas and turning it down. It starts the first time.
Replaced the air filter. , spark plug, washed the carburetor, jets and the result is the same. The lever on the engine block that makes the gas more and less during operation twitches (should it even move involuntarily during operation?) and at the same time the carburetor flap opens and closes. When I hold the spring on the carburetor it works smoothly, I immediately drop it as if I gave it a sharp boost of gas. Three of my friends already have this situation. Is it possible to reduce the fuel supply? Vasily Fed. , What about thinking? 99% similar to the operation of a centrifugal regulator. I haven’t touched this myself. Read and look through the work of such regulators. You don’t need to be particularly afraid of this, but it’s understandable that you want smooth work. There may be some kind of design defect in the operation of the regulator. On my gasoline internal combustion engine the idle also floats slightly. I don't feel like taking it apart.

I fluctuate not only at idle but also when I give it gas, but I just have to listen or step aside

Vasily Fed. wrote: the speed fluctuates not only at idle but also when I give it gas

Well then, YES. We need to look for the reason.

Vasily Fed. wrote: Three comrades already have this situation

Looks like there's a problem. Maybe take a closer look at the play on the carburetor control rods. It is clear that they are there, but they must be within reasonable acceptable limits.

Don't touch the speed controller yet. It is stupid and cannot be the cause of the unstable speed. Most often, the engine starts to malfunction like this due to a faulty spark plug. Replace with another one, not necessarily “native” - as long as it fits in size. And try domestically produced ones - they work better with our filthy fuel than imported ones. The second (somewhat less common) reason is a clogged fuel system. Now, if replacing the spark plug doesn't help, get into the carburetor and fuel lines. And do not twist the adjusting screws (if there are any), but simply open and clean. And change the gas station, it is quite possible that the problem is the quality of the fuel. But we usually adjust the regulators when the owners climb in themselves and start trying to change the factory settings. Don’t touch the regulator, don’t add more work to the services - now the blockage has already begun

Vasily Fed. wrote: When I hold the spring on the carburetor it works smoothly, I drop it right away as if I suddenly gave the gas Takaya

So try a slightly tighter spring, or tighten this one with something.

Olegych wrote: Don't touch the speed control yet. It is stupid and cannot be the cause of the unstable speed. Most often, the engine starts to malfunction like this due to a faulty spark plug. Replace with another one, not necessarily the “native” one - as long as it fits in size. And try domestically produced ones - they work better with our filthy fuel than imported ones. The second (somewhat less common) reason is a clogged fuel system. Now, if replacing the spark plug doesn't help, get into the carburetor and fuel lines. And do not twist the adjusting screws (if there are any), but simply open and clean. And change the gas station, it is quite possible that the problem is the quality of the fuel. But we usually adjust the regulators when the owners climb in themselves and start trying to change the factory settings. Don’t touch the regulator, don’t add more work to the services - now the blockage has already begun

In! That's what I wanted to say, but I'm not a pro. Why are people afraid of these regulators? Because it’s not clear how they work? (like my wife, she is afraid of everything she doesn’t understand. That’s why she doesn’t go near the computer.) I just wanted to say that the reason should be looked for elsewhere: the spark plug, the carb, the fuel supply, but in no case not in the regulator itself. I understand that it also breaks, but this is an extreme case. Thank you Olegich for stopping by!

Pavel003 wrote: try a slightly tighter spring, or tighten this one with something.

I wouldn't recommend it! Then you will be tortured to put it in place! I also went through this on Krota.

Vasily Fed. wrote: Dear forum users, please help

I'll try, I also have a Neva with the same engine and also had the same symptoms. It can be treated by blowing out the idle jet. When you remove the carburetor, look at it from the side where it is attached to the engine, there you will see the throttle valve and in front of it in the channel itself on the right there is a small hole, you need it I blew it out with a compressor. I have already cured three engines in this way. It started with my Honda, I took it apart three times until it was finished. And a week ago my neighbor’s Neva with a Briggs with Intek was also cured. Just very carefully disassemble the carburetor and remember what is in place and to the rods and springs no need to bother, just put them in the right place later. Tell me, do you start a hot engine with the choke fully open, or do you cover it? I even start a hot engine with the choke closed, and a cold one with the choke closed, and it’s been like that since new.

On the old Tekamsi engine, I twisted the speed controller this way. The revolutions began to float, and I’m very “smart” - I read about the speed controller. Well, I decided to play with the springs and move them to other holes. Then, I remember, I also washed and blew out the carburetor, and when I put the washed one back in place, the revolutions became even, but more than needed, and much more. I was tired of exhibiting it later, because I didn’t write it down or sketch it when it melted away. Then I sat down and thought deeply. It seems to me that a working regulator reacts to what the ignition, fuel supply and load do to the engine. If there is no load, then the reason is either in the ignition (which is less likely) or in the supply of the fuel mixture (which includes both gasoline and air). And the regulator is most often in good working order and tries to bring the speed in order if for some reason they begin to rise or fall when the speed control lever is stationary. Perhaps I'm wrong. Then teach.

newzubok wrote: Then I sat down and thought hard. It seems to me that a working regulator reacts to what the ignition, fuel supply and load do to the engine. If there is no load, then the reason is either in the ignition (which is less likely) or in the supply of the fuel mixture (which includes both gasoline and air). And the regulator is most often in good working order and tries to bring the speed in order if for some reason they begin to rise or fall when the speed control lever is stationary. Perhaps I'm wrong. Then teach.

Everything is absolutely true! Ignition is rare, usually carb, and the regulator itself is out of the ordinary - almost fantastic.

newzubok wrote: more than needed, and much more.

Of course, it’s complicated, about like an andron collider. Think about where and what you write. You can write in the same way about the carburetor screws. The spring tension regulates the speed; the harder the spring pulls, the higher the maintained speed will be. True, all this applies to UD 15, 25 and UD 1.2. But the speed regulator is also a regulator in Africa.

newzubok wrote: It seems to me that a working regulator reacts to what ignition, fuel supply and load are doing to the engine. If there is no load,

The adjustment is made by supplying fuel. On UDashki, the regulator always closes the valve (the rod pushed out by the gouziks presses on the lever towards closing), and a spring opens it. The balance of the tension force of the spring and the pressure force of the diverging weights maintains constant speed. On DM 1 this is not so bright expressed, and the spring costs IDIOTICALLY (more precisely, in European terms, I would say through the ass), but in order to save money, they send their women to the panel, so there is nothing surprising.

valerich wrote: And the regulator itself is almost fantastic.

Much like the Soyuz spacecraft.

newzubok wrote: Perhaps I'm wrong. Then teach.

And one more point. When the forces are measured (and change) in tens, or even hundreds of grams, an error in adjustment of 10-20 grams is not significant (this is with our Udeshki). And when these forces are within the range of 20-50 grams (weak, delicate springs) then the adjustment is quite a nasty thing, it’s hard to catch the right moment, but it’s possible. Our “specialists” at DM 1 throw out both the regulator and the KMB 5 carb; both worked for me.

Sanya 17 wrote: it can be treated by blowing out the idle jet.

Very possible. But of course this is not always the reason.

Pavel003 wrote: About the same as the Soyuz spacecraft.

Not. Cooler! What's his name, who was supposed to fly to Mars. And fell into our ocean. Phobos like?

Starting system malfunctions

If during inspection the spark plugs turn out to be wet, but the engine does not start, then detecting the malfunction will be much more difficult:

• the ignition system may fail;
• due to depressurization of connections, air leaks may occur;
• the air damper in the carburetor may not be closed enough;
• carburetor failure.

A failure of the ignition system is an unpleasant moment, but you should not panic and immediately call a specialist. First, remove and inspect the spark plug. If you find carbon deposits on it, clean it with sandpaper, rinse it with gasoline and let it dry completely. Very often, after such a procedure, the engine begins to work normally.

If the engine still won't start and you feel competent, check the gap between the electrodes. The required value is indicated in the manufacturer's instructions, but due to constant vibration during operation, it may change, and the walk-behind tractor may stall while driving. Adjust the gap to the desired value by bending the side electrode.

It will not be possible to deal with other problems of the ignition system right away. If the insulators of spark plugs or electrical wiring are burnt out, they need to be replaced. You can also short the “STOP” button to ground, and until the short circuit is eliminated, the engine will not start. Also, the reason that the engine does not start may be a violation of the contacts in the spark plug brackets or a violation of the gap between the magnetic shoe and the starter. Finally, the starter itself may be damaged and will need to be replaced.

If the walk-behind tractor does not gain power normally, it is worth checking its muffler. Over time, fuel combustion products clog the muffler, forming a thick layer of soot on its walls, so it needs to be cleaned periodically. To do this, the muffler must be removed, plugging the outlet hole with a clean rag, washed first in gasoline, then cleaned of carbon deposits by washing with detergents, and finally dried with a hairdryer.

Sometimes the walk-behind tractor stalls during operation due to simple overheating. If, with the throttle fully open, you press the throttle, and the engine, instead of accelerating, loses speed, then this is a clear sign of overheating. The walk-behind tractor must be stopped and allowed to cool completely, and then started again.

This is not the entire list of reasons why your recently perfectly serviceable walk-behind tractor may stall even under light load. Almost all components of the walk-behind tractor are subject to significant loads during operation, so minor malfunctions and breakdowns are not uncommon. Therefore, if you discover that there is something wrong with the walk-behind tractor: extraneous noise, twitching, strong vibration, etc. - Turn off the engine immediately. And only after the engine has cooled down can you begin troubleshooting. But this is a topic for another conversation.

How to start a snow blower - procedure for equipment with electric and manual starter

Most breakdowns of snow removal equipment are associated with its improper use. Snow blowers especially often fail as a result of improper starting. A number of important mechanisms responsible for the smooth start-up of the engine and other machine components suffer from this.

To prevent premature breakdown of equipment, you need to turn it on correctly. If the snow blower is equipped only with an electric starter, then it must be started in the following order:

1. First, you will need to move the snow blower fuel valve lever to the “On” or “On” position;
2. Then you need to firmly fix the cap from the high-voltage wire on the top of the spark plug;
3. After this, you will need to move the throttle lever to the “Closed” or “Choke” position. To do this, you need to move it all the way to the right;
4. Next, you will need to move the starting switch lever to the “On” or “Enabled” position. After this, you need to press the pump several times to manually pump up the fuel;
5. Then you need to press the starter button located on the snow blower body and hold it until the engine starts. It is not recommended to hold your finger on the button for more than 10 seconds. If the engine does not start, it is better to wait a few minutes and press the starter button again;
6. Once the snow blower engine starts, you will need to move the throttle lever to the “Run” or “Open” position. After this, you need to give the engine some time to warm up. After 5–7 minutes you can start removing snow.

To start a snow blower with a manual starter, you should follow this algorithm:

1. First of all, you need to check the amount of engine oil. Then you need to move the auger and wheel locking levers to the fully lowered position;
2. Then you will need to move the fuel supply lever to the “On” or “Enabled” position;
3. Next, you need to firmly secure the cap of the high-voltage wire to the spark plug;
4. After this, the throttle lever must be moved to the “Closed” or Choke position;
5. The start switch will need to be moved to the “On” or “On” position;
6. Then you need to press the manual fuel pump button 3-5 times and slowly pull the starter cable towards you until resistance is felt. After this, you need to pull out the cable with a sharp jerk so that the snow blower engine starts;

7. After this, you will need to move the throttle lever to the “On” or “Open” position and give the engine time to warm up.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VN0Lyts7frs

All steps to start the snow blower motor must be performed exactly in the order specified in the algorithm. This will prevent increased load on the engine and other working components of the machine.