Sawing wood with round saws, also called circular saws, is the most common type of wood processing. The simplicity of the equipment, its relatively low cost, combined with high productivity, make it possible to use circular saws in all cutting operations, both in primary and secondary wood processing.
However, despite all the visible advantages, sawing with circular saws has one serious drawback. It lies in the difficulty of ensuring the stability of the circular saw in the cut. As a rule, a circular saw is installed on the saw shaft and fixed. A disk of large diameter but small thickness, having only one support in the center, works with significant loads, including those located outside the plane of the disk.
Due to insufficient rigidity, the disk deviates from the plane of rotation, heats up touching the walls of the cut, which leads to loss of working stability, which means defects and loss of time due to frequent machine stops. The only way to increase the lateral rigidity of a saw is to increase the thickness of the blade, which also leads to a decrease in the useful yield of lumber due to an increase in the amount of sawdust.
Saw tooth shape for rip and cross cuts
Classification of types of sawing
Characteristics of the sawing process
Sawing is the process of dividing wood with a saw into volumetric, undeformed parts by turning the volume of wood between these parts into chips.
A saw is a multi-blade cutting tool that works in a closed cut. A kerf is a gap formed in wood when teeth cut narrow shavings (sawdust). The cut has side walls and a bottom with which the blades (teeth) interact.
Sawing wood is classified according to several criteria.
Depending on the position of the saw plane in relation to the wood fibers, longitudinal, transverse and mixed sawing is distinguished.
In rip sawing, the blade plane is parallel or approximately parallel to the grain of the wood. Saw frames, circular saws and band saws operate on the principle of longitudinal sawing, on which logs and beams are sawed into boards, lumber is cut to width or thickness in the longitudinal direction.
When cross-cutting, the plane of the saw is perpendicular or approximately perpendicular to the grain of the wood. Sawing is performed manually with cross-cut saws, hacksaws or on cross-cutting machines used for cutting logs into round logs, removing wood defects and wane areas from the ends of the lumber, as well as giving the lumber a given length and quality.
When mixed sawing, the saw plane is located at an acute angle (10˚...80˚) to the direction of the fibers.
Depending on the type of saws used, the following types of sawing are distinguished:
– longitudinal frame sawing, sawing with band, circular and jigsaws;
– cross-cutting with circular, chain and jigsaws;
– mixed sawing with circular, band and jigsaws.
Depending on the number of simultaneously working saws in the machine, a distinction is made between individual and group cutting methods. Cutting logs and lumber with one saw is called individual cutting, and cutting with several saws is called group cutting.
In individual sawing, logs are sawn into lumber with separate cuts on circular saws, band saws, vertical or horizontal machines. Cutting is carried out taking into account the individual characteristics of the quality zones of each log. This cutting method is effective when sawing valuable wood, cutting large-diameter logs and logs with significant defects.
For group sawing, sawmill frames, multi-saw circular saws and band saws, as well as milling and sawing machines are used.
Depending on the position of the workpiece relative to the center of the circular saw, sawing with the peripheral zone of the saw, the middle zone and the central zone of the saw, as well as sawing with the upper and lower zone of the saw are distinguished.
When working with the peripheral zone of the saw, the saw teeth protrude above the surface of the workpiece by an amount approximately equal to the height of the tooth.
When working with the middle zone of the saw, the teeth protrude above the surface of the workpiece by an amount equal to approximately one-third of the radius of the saw.
When working with the central zone, the center of the saw is located in the middle of the cutting height. This type of sawing is used in milling and sawing machines.
The peripheral and middle working zones of the saw can be located on the upper or lower sections of the saw, which is observed in circular saws with a lower and upper saw shaft.
In case of divorce (Fig. 2, a
) the tips of the teeth with a length of 0.3...0.5 of the tooth height are bent alternately in different directions.
When flattening (Fig. 2, b
), the tips of the teeth are flattened and shaped, giving them the shape of blades located symmetrically relative to the saw body.
The sawing rule can be formulated as follows: when inserting a tooth into wood, you first need to cut the fibers, and then, with the least resistance, separate them from the massif and remove the chips from the cut.
When longitudinal sawing (Fig. 5, a
) the tooth with its main cutting edge cuts into the wood and cuts its fibers. The wedge of the tooth penetrates the wood and the front edge tends to press the cut chips away from the wood. Since the strength of the wood in the plane of the fibers is weak, the cut part of the chips breaks off and falls into the interdental cavity.
.°. The side cutting edges are not sharpened and are left with a cutting angle of 90°. The saw tooth must have a cutting angle with the main cutting edge always less than 90
When cross-cutting (Fig. 5, b
) the work of cutting wood fibers is performed by the side cutting edges.
For this purpose, the teeth are made with side sharpening. When the teeth are inserted into the wood to a depth of 0.8 mm, the stresses at the bottom of the cut, created by the beveled front edges of the teeth (Fig. 5, c
), reach the breaking strength along the fibers and the cut fibers break off either to the left or to the right along the fibers.
.° = 40. 45j, and the side cutting edge is made with an oblique sharpening angle ° 90> dWhen cross-cutting wood, the main work is performed by the side cutting edges of the teeth, inclined forward and having beveled front edges. To ensure these conditions, the saw teeth are sharpened as follows: cutting angle at the main cutting edge
Sawing logs into boards at home
Many people make their own sawmill for sawing logs. Let's consider two main options for their manufacture.
- Weld a frame from metal plates and angles and attach the engine to its lower part. Place a shaft with pulleys at the top. Then attach one or more circular saw blades to the shaft. Attach a guide made of a metal square or timber to the table. While pressing against the guides, feed the log and move it forward. If you use one saw, then you need to attach a ruler or apply markings to the surface of the table.
- Weld a frame from a profile pipe and channels. Attach a saw with a gasoline or electric drive to a carriage with vertical feed. To ensure that the cutting of logs into boards is as accurate as possible, attach a ruler to the vertical stand. Use a rod or sanded pipe to guide the carriage. They are necessary for the carriage to move vertically. Install a screw in the bearing that will move the carriage as it moves. Also, don't forget to prepare the log clamps.
Dissolving logs on a circular saw
When using the second option for work, it is the saw that is driven, on a specially attached frame. The log itself remains in place. If you use a reciprocating saw rather than a chain saw, the process will be a little longer because it only works in one direction.
General information
Just as there is no panacea for all diseases, there is no one universal saw element for all types of woodworking. For fast, high-quality, and most importantly, safe operation, each operation requires an appropriate disk.
Before choosing a disk, you need to decide on the working material:
- type of wood - hard or soft;
- cutting will be carried out along or across;
- type of workpiece being processed - boards, plywood, chipboard, the presence of any coating.
Disks for different tasks
While cross-cutting is best done with a disk with a negative tooth angle, for longitudinal cutting this option is unacceptable due to the occurrence of a repulsion effect, so the model for longitudinal sawing is not suitable for cross-cutting. Negative consequences can occur for the saw engine - sawdust, clogging into the interdental sinuses, creates enormous overloads on the engine.
Note! Bouncing off the surface and, consequently, vibration of the workpiece will not only become an unpleasant sensation for you, but extremely life-threatening. It is especially important to take this point into account when working with an angle grinder, when the chance of getting a terrible injury is especially high.
For each type of work, appropriate disks are selected, which may differ:
- a series or a hint for you in a painful choice;
- the type and angle of the teeth - with a positive inclination, the cut is made faster, but sloppily, with a negative inclination, on the contrary - slowly, but cleanly;
- number of teeth - a large number of them (80−90) are suitable for a clean cut, but the work is slowed down by accumulating chips; the fewer teeth (10–40), the faster the work goes, the chips are removed, but the cut looks torn;
In the photo - a disc for a clean cut
- design - on a high-quality disc, grinding marks diverge from the center, i.e. each was processed separately; the surface should not have roughness, otherwise it will heat up and the teeth will quickly become dull; stiffening rings, wavy expansions and a special coating of the canvas also indicate its good quality;
- outer diameter;
- diameter of the mounting hole;
- maximum speed;
- blade thickness - a thin disk creates minimal load on the engine and can be used in a cordless saw, but it is not suitable for heavy work;
- marking - on high-quality samples it is laser and contains information that is discussed here point by point.
More about saw blades
The correct selection and operation of a saw blade affects not only the quality and speed of the cut, but also human safety. So it makes sense to take a closer look at the features of popular models.
Cross and longitudinal sawing
Unlike cutting metal or stone, when working with wood, the direction of the cut is of great importance. This can be explained by the direction of the fibers; because of this, it works completely differently when cutting crosswise and longitudinally.
A 210x30 disc, or any other size for longitudinal sawing, is designed in order to cut the workpiece along the grain as quickly as possible. Among the design features, one can note the increased sinuses compared to other models (this is necessary in order to quickly remove a large amount of sawdust), as well as a smaller number of teeth.
This tooth configuration is optimal for longitudinal sawing
The sharpening angle of the disk is positive, thanks to this the self-grabbing effect is maximized, that is, the saw, as it were, pulls the workpiece towards itself, which makes it easier to feed and increases work safety. If you need to cut a large volume of lumber with your own hands, this will greatly facilitate the work.
Positive sharpening angle
Note! For cross cuts, a large positive sharpening angle is completely unnecessary; it will only create additional problems.
The main difference between cross-cut saw blades is the sharpening angle; it can even be negative if you need maximum control over the feed speed of the workpiece. You can also note a larger number of teeth and a reduced size of the sinuses for removing sawdust.
This sharpening will give maximum control over the feed of the workpiece.
In principle, a simple rule applies - the harder the material, the smaller the size of the tooth, but there are more of them on the disc.
Influence of tooth shape on cutting
The quality of the cut with a carbide blade is greatly influenced by the shape of the tooth.
There are such saw blade options as:
- The 190x30 blade, which has flat-top teeth, is ideal for cutting very hard wood. The tooth is symmetrical, due to this the load is uniform on both sides;
Flat top suitable for hardwood
- beveled teeth - in such models the top of the teeth is beveled in a checkerboard pattern in different directions. This allows you to effectively bite into the material, minimizing the possibility of chipping;
Note! It is not recommended to use this blade for cutting hard material. The fact is that when a tooth comes into contact with wood, a significant axial force will be created on it.
- "triple shavings" The disk works according to this scheme: first, a tooth with symmetrical bevels on the sides removes triple chips, and the next one (with a flat top) cleans the edges of the cut. A 250x32 disc with this tooth configuration can be considered a universal solution; it is suitable for both plastic and hardwood;
Triple chip tooth configuration
- If you need ideal cutting quality, then you should pay attention to discs in which there is 1 tooth with a flat top per block of 4 teeth with bevels. The main function of the cut is on teeth with oblique tops, and with flat tops it will only clean the cut.
Monolithic and carbide wheels
Quite often, the price of disks of the same standard size differs significantly. Most likely, the fact is that one of them is monolithic, and the second is carbide. This explains the difference in cost.
In a monolithic disk, the teeth are integral with the disk itself.
They are cheaper than carbide, but the low price is due to several disadvantages:
- they become dull faster, especially when working with hard wood;
- Over time, the wiring needs to be updated, otherwise the cut will become too narrow, which will lead to overheating and increased load on the engine.
The teeth and the disc itself are one whole
The advantages of such models include the fact that they can be sharpened several times. True, doing this manually is quite difficult without experience.
As for carbide-tipped discs, they have small metal inserts made of a high-strength alloy soldered onto the top of the tooth.
This allows you to achieve several goals at once:
- Due to the fact that the width of the soldering exceeds the width of the disk itself, there is no need for wiring. This makes it easier to maintain;
- The soldered metal is much stronger than the metal of the disk itself, so it will take much longer to effectively saw than a monolithic one.
Carbide soldering visible
Sharpening is not recommended, but it is not required. If we compare the service life of 2 types of discs, it turns out that a monolithic disc will need to be sharpened 2-4 times, and a carbide disc will last all this time without sharpening.
So when choosing, it all depends on what kind of wood you plan to work with. So, if you need to choose a 165x20 disc for soft wood (poplar, linden, aspen), then a monolithic one will do. But for oak or larch, maple, it makes sense to purchase a carbide model.
Sawing technology
It may seem to some that sawing a log into boards at home is as easy as shelling pears. But this is a wrong judgment, especially when it comes to the production of building material for the construction of any structure.
Before dissolving the log , you need to decide what size the lumber should be and what quality the final boards should have. The choice of a suitable tool depends on these factors.
The main phase of dissolution must be started only after inspecting the logs. You may need to remove bark and knots from them. If the logs do not have any flaws or defects, the processing process will go much faster, and the final lumber will exceed all the expectations of the master.
Circular. Nano board cutting machine
Today, there are several types of cutting logs, depending on the orientation of the growth rings of the felled tree.
DISC MACHINE. HOW TO SAW A LOG AT HOME???
- Radial. In this case, the cut must be made along the radius of the growth rings. The finished lumber will meet high quality requirements and will not deform even after long-term use.
- Tangential. This variety involves sawing the log tangentially relative to the growth rings. However, the resulting lumber will not have the desired strength.
- Parallel. The most understandable cutting option occurs parallel to the grain of the wood.
When unraveling logs in the direction of the grain, it is best to use the roundwood option. Initially, the round timber slab is cut off from the 1st side part. Then the log is turned over 180 degrees, and the 2nd croaker is removed.
In order for the boards to be even, the processed log must be constantly turned over.
Regardless of the chosen method of cutting different logs, it is necessary to adhere to several general rules that correspond to the sawing technology.
- The log should not move during processing. It should be securely fastened to the work surface.
- When using a chainsaw, you will need a chain for longitudinal processing so that the cut is smooth and the saw does not go sideways. It is very important that the chain is sharpened and does not sag.
- When cutting with your own hands, you should choose small-sized logs.
- Before you start cutting, you should make markings that correspond to the selected type of cut.
- It is important to pay special attention to safety precautions at any stage of log processing.
Knowing how to split logs correctly is only part of the wood sawing technology. It is much more difficult to work from a drawing when you need to turn a paper drawing into reality. If there is a clear diagram, each cutting detail undergoes careful measurements. The cuts of the mowing line must be even, which is extremely important in the manufacture of decorative products.
How to protect yourself when working with a circular saw
Saw blades for wood, if handled incorrectly, can deprive a person of extra fingers or even limbs. Most often, the reason for this lies in violations of the basic rules of working with the device.
The operating instructions include several simple rules:
- It is prohibited to feed short workpieces manually. For this it is better to use special stops;
- It is not advisable to use a saw blade with a grinder. This is the most dangerous option. Even if you hold the tool very firmly, then when a tooth hits a nail or twig, it can jerk so strongly in your hands that you won’t be able to hold it;
It is prohibited to place such a saw blade on an angle grinder.
- some also remove the protective casing, installing a larger disk than the manufacturer intended. This is the right way to the hospital;
- The dimensions of saw blades for wood must correspond to the mounting diameter. If you install a model with a large mounting hole without a special adapter, then eccentricity during rotation can lead to rupture and scattering of the disk. If such a fragment enters the body, the consequences are comparable to a shell fragment.
How to choose a circular saw to install in a table?
In this case, the main thing is that it is designed for this mode of operation. Many manual models are designed for an operating mode, for example, 15/15 - 15 minutes of work, 15 minutes to let the engine cool.
In a stationary mode (on a table), the saw has to work continuously, sometimes for several hours, or work can be delayed for a long time, catastrophically reducing labor productivity. Otherwise, the tool will quickly fail.
Therefore, special universal saws (hand-held/stationary) are produced for stationary installation. This saw is designed for this, as the manufacturer directly states in the operating instructions.
Tip #9. Such circular saws are more expensive than regular ones, so if the volumes are small, we recommend choosing a tool from the middle price segment: BOSCH GKS 600, Makita 5477NB, Metabo KS 55. See the list with characteristics, descriptions and reviews above.
This is what a circular saw looks like installed on a table and secured with clamps.
Choosing a power saw: direct and side motor
A chain saw is used to cut various materials. This is an indispensable tool for construction, for collecting firewood, and making wooden structures. More experienced craftsmen can use a chain saw to cut foam blocks and plastic. There are electric and gasoline-powered saws. The cost of both models is approximately the same, but electric saws are easier to maintain and are less likely to end up in a service center. An undeniable advantage of gasoline models is autonomy. You can get work done without being tied to an outlet.
Reciprocating or circular saw - which to choose and why?
These are different tools created for their own purposes. When you need to cut a lot, quickly and accurately, a circular saw is required. If you need to cut a part in a hard-to-reach place that cannot be reached with a circular saw, a reciprocating saw (hand saw) is suitable.
In addition, the reciprocating saw can be used to install saws for different materials - tile, metal, plexiglass, etc. It is irrational to make long cuts with a reciprocating saw; it does it slowly and inaccurately . But it can stop the cut at the desired angle, whereas a round disk on an interrupted cut will leave a rounding. In any case, these tools do not replace, but complement each other.
Reciprocating saw BISON
Motor location
To determine the type of motor location, mentally draw a line along the saw bar. If the motor is located along the length, you have a longitudinal saw, and if it is perpendicular, a transverse saw.
For cross-type saws, the drive sprocket on the engine is directly connected to the direct drive. Thanks to this structure, power loss is eliminated and the dynamics of the circuit is increased. The saw quickly picks up speed and is characterized by productivity, which is important when working for a long time with materials of small thickness. At the same time, such saws have a disturbed center of gravity, which causes difficulties in balancing the tool (the balance must be constantly monitored and leveled). Performing a vertical cut is more difficult: with high power, the load on the operator’s hands is felt. However, in everyday life, when the work does not take too long, this is almost imperceptible and is fully justified by high productivity. The rip saw has a straight line design, which improves maneuverability and allows you to work at different angles.
SAW CROSSLY
For cutting at an angle, an aluminum corner 50 x 50 x 2 mm was useful. I press it with clamps to the board that needs to be sawed. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the distance from the edge of the saw base to the saw blade.
Instead of a corner, I sometimes used a rectangular aluminum profile 40 x 20 x 2 mm, 1 m long.
One day I found an old locksmith’s corner with a steel shelf in the barn. With its help, it turned out to be convenient to make cuts at right angles, since the shelf is well fixed at the edge of the board.
Dimensions
If you plan to cut branches on trees or trim bushes, it is better to purchase a saw with a longitudinal motor. This is a narrow, compact and maneuverable model that allows you to cut at an angle, in a vertical and horizontal position. For sawing thick wood and harvesting firewood, a saw with a transverse motor is ideal. Of course, it can also be used for cutting trees, but it is inconvenient to work with such a tool, since the transverse motor will catch branches.
A crosscut saw, unlike a straight saw, has a more complex structure. Due to the side-mounted engine, this tool may seem more difficult to carry. However, both types of electric saws weigh approximately the same. Therefore, the complexity of their transportation is the same.
HOW TO MAKE A PERFECT STRAIGHT CUT WHEN ASSEMBLYING A FRAME
If you are not a tough frame construction professional, then you most likely have problems with straight cutting with a manual circular saw.
A good, even cut is very desirable when assembling a frame. Even if you have a laser-guided saw, it still takes skill and a steady hand.
Usually, for a straight long cut, they use a cord rubbed with chalk: they beat off a straight line with it and saw along it. But if you don’t have the skill, this doesn’t really help. It is good to have a rigid guide against which the edge of the saw rests - then the cut should be straight. To do this, I had to come up with equipment from what was at hand.
Weight difference
Both types of electric saws have approximately the same weight. The weight and dimensions of the saw depend on the power (the more power, the more weight). A saw with a power of 1.8 kW will weigh up to 5 kg, with a power of 2.6 kW, the weight of the tool reaches 5.5 kg.
According to some craftsmen, when working with a longitudinal electric saw, there is a heavy load on the operator’s back and arms. The motor, that is, the main weight of the saw, is located further from the body, creating a greater load. When working with the transverse, the main weight is closer to the body, so working with it is twice as easy.
Engine power
The power of electric saws for household and professional use varies significantly, but usually ranges from 1 to 2.1 kW. The performance and duration of operation depend on this indicator. Foresta's range includes the FS-2840DS electric saw with a maximum power of 2.8 kW, which corresponds to the power of a chainsaw. The tool can cope with sawing thick wood and is suitable for cutting down large-diameter fruit trees.
When deciding on the power, evaluate how stable the power supply voltage is in the work area. If changes are the norm, then it is better to choose a more powerful unit. If there are strong voltage drops, the engine will not operate at the declared power and will quickly overheat.
Straight electric saws have a bevel gear drive. The disadvantage of this design is that the power of the tool is not fully transmitted. Efficiency drops to approximately 80%. The transverse motor type guarantees almost 100% power.
What types of saws are there: main types and characteristics of the tool
Take saws away from humanity and progress will stop.
This statement is not a joke. Without a tool capable of cutting wood and metal, concrete and stone, the functioning of industrial enterprises and other areas of commodity production is impossible. In the household, too, it is impossible to do without saws. Every man has at least one hacksaw, and a good craftsman can find a whole arsenal of “toothed helpers.”
We will look at the most common types of saws to get an idea of their operating capabilities and application features.
Preparing for cutting
Before sawing a log into boards, you need to remove the skin from it. This can be done with a sharpened shovel, scraper, or electric plane.
When using a shovel, the movements are done on your own.
It is believed that the best results are obtained when the bark is removed with a scraper - it does not affect the tree.
Cross cutting of logs
This is not difficult even for working at home. Place the log on the sawhorses or secure it to the guides. And you can saw off pieces of the desired size.
It all started with a simple hacksaw
It is this saw that is the ancestor of the family of hand tools designed for wood processing. As soon as the first ingot of iron was smelted, a person had the idea to forge a tool from it for cultivating the earth.
It can be assumed that the ax became second after the hoe. The third was probably a saw with a handle, known to us today as a hacksaw. Over the centuries since its invention, it has acquired numerous “brothers and sisters” performing dozens of different jobs.
The accepted classification divides this type of hand saws into two groups:
- Wood saws;
- Hacksaws for metal.
Depending on the direction of cutting, hand saws for wood are divided into three categories:
- For rip sawing cutting;
- For cross cutting;
- Universal (longitudinal-transverse).
The difference between them is in the shape of the cutting teeth: on a rip saw they are inclined forward, while on a cross saw they are straight.
The universal hacksaw tooth is also inclined forward, but has a special sharpening. It allows you to cut along and across the fibers.
According to their purpose, hand saws are divided into several types:
- Classic hacksaws (transverse or longitudinal cutting);
- Circular saws (for cutting holes);
- Tenon saws (for cutting connecting tenons).
When choosing a hand hacksaw, not only the shape but the size of the teeth plays an important role.
There are three types of incisors:
- Fine tooth – 2.0-2.5 mm (for high-precision sawing and cutting small products);
- Average tooth – 3.0-3.5 mm (for medium-sized parts);
- Large tooth – 4.0-6.0 mm (for rough cutting of timber and logs).
The international classification divides hacksaws not by the height of the teeth, but by their number per 1 inch of cutting blade. This standard has taken root here too, so don’t be surprised if you see the letters PPI or TPI on the instrument label. The number behind them is the number of teeth per inch of length. The larger it is, the finer the tooth (for example, PPI 8 or TPI 14).
Today you can see a modernized type of hacksaws on the market. They are easily distinguished by the gaps cut into the canvas. As a result, the teeth are arranged in groups of 6-7 pieces.
This tool is designed for cutting raw wood. The spaces between the teeth are needed so that wet chips do not clog the cut and can be easily removed during work.
In addition to the usual hand hacksaws, users today are offered an electrified version of the tool. A powerful electric hacksaw can easily cope with a large volume of work on cutting lumber without tiring the owner too much.
Its versatility is achieved by being equipped with saws with different lengths and widths of blades and tooth sizes. This allows you to successfully work not only on wood, but also on plastic and metal. Another name for this tool is a reciprocating saw.
The main parameter characterizing the capabilities of electric hacksaws is power. It ranges from 400 to 1600 W. The cutting depth directly depends on it, which ranges from 90 mm for household models to 200 mm for professional models.
Hand tools for metal working are not so diverse. There is only one type of hand saw that can cut this material. Its working body is a wide or narrow blade with small hardened teeth. It is inserted into the bow holder and tightened with a screw.
SAW Lengthwise
If you need to straighten the edge of the board, you need a long guide. I use a rectangular profile 50 x 20 mm, 2 m long. If the board is shorter than 2 m, then it’s quite simple: we fasten the profile with two clamps and saw along it. But if the board is longer, then the profile needs its own guides and fastening. Can be fastened with two self-tapping screws. And I make a straight line using a strong thread, stretched like a string.
To fasten the thread, use a sharp knife to make a slit along the fibers at the required distance from the edge of the board at the beginning, and tuck the end of the thread there with a knot that prevents it from slipping out. At the other end there are two slits: in the upper one the thread is tensioned, and the lower one fixes it. If the tensioned thread oscillates when released and stops in the same position each time, then it is well tensioned.
We install the profile lengthwise at the same minimum distance without touching the thread and fasten it with self-tapping screws. To prevent the profile from moving during fastening, it must be pressed firmly. Having made the first pass with the saw, we rearrange the profile further. Ideally, another board of the same thickness should be placed under the other edge of the saw for support. If there is no such support, you will have to monitor the horizontal position of the saw, but this is easier than sawing in a straight line without a guide.
This way I was able to do an extreme leveling of a ceiling beam that had too much of a downward hump.
Sources:
https://stroy-podskazka.ru/brevno/kak-raspilit-na-doski-v-domashnih-usloviyah/ https://atmwood.com.ua/2018/01/30/kak-raspilit-brevno-na- doski/ https://kak-svoimi-rukami.com/2018/08/idealno-pryamoj-raspil-ruchnoj-cirkulyarkoj-moj-sovet/
Chainsaws
Often when working with wood, it is not the cleanliness and accuracy of the cut that is important, but its depth. This is exactly the problem that a chain saw solves - a powerful device with an electric or gasoline motor, designed for felling forests and cutting firewood.
It has two main interrelated technical parameters:
A bar is two flat plates connected to each other with a small gap for installing a saw chain. At one end it has a driven sprocket, and at the other there are cutouts for the tensioning mechanism.
The power of electric chain saws ranges from 1.5 to 4 kW. When choosing a device for household work on the site, it is better to choose a power of 1.5 to 2 kW with a saw bar length of 30 to 40 cm. This is quite enough not only for sanitary pruning of the garden, but also for preparing firewood.
If necessary, you can use this tool to dismantle a board, log or beam, although you will not get high quality and precision cutting.
There are two subtypes of electric chain saws:
- With lateral (transverse) engine placement;
- With longitudinal installation of the motor.
The first type is simpler in design and cheaper in price. But the second one is more convenient to use, although it is more expensive due to the introduction of a gearbox into the design.
The main thing that a chainsaw gives its owner is autonomy. With such a tool you can go into the forest and cut wood there. For such a significant advantage you will have to pay a price: chainsaws are more complex in design than electric ones. This difference is especially noticeable when purchasing a cheap “no-hire” device. Problems with starting, carburetor, rings and spark plugs are frequent companions of such a purchase. Therefore, it is better to purchase a more expensive chainsaw than to lose money when using an economy option.
Additional functions
Modern power tools are equipped with additional functions that have become available thanks to the development of electronics. Also, different models may have additional capabilities that are made using mechanical devices.
When choosing, you should pay attention to the presence of these functions and know what they give the user. Let's look at the main ones in more detail.
Rotation speed stabilization system
This is an electronic system that, when under load, increases the current supplied to the electric motor. And, conversely, it decreases when working with a light load or without it. As a result, the disk rotates at the same speed under any load.
Tip #6. It should be remembered that the loads are not unlimited (a 1 kW motor cannot produce a power of 2 kW).
Under excessive loads, the speed will still drop or the engine will be switched off by the protective system, if any. However, the system allows for smooth operation of the saw in different modes, which makes work easier.
Soft start system
When starting, most electric motors consume 3 times the rated power. For example, a 2.2 kW motor can consume up to 6.6 kW at startup , putting an excessive load on the network.
Sometimes networks that are not designed for this and are loaded with other consumers cannot handle it. And in any case, during startup, the light “goes down” for a while, which can be seen from the fading light of the incandescent light. The soft start system avoids this.
In addition, it improves safety. If, during startup, the disk accidentally ends up “in the wrong place,” it will not cause harm, since at first it will rotate slowly and there will be time to correct the situation.
This is a useful function, but there is a drawback - the saw does not immediately start working, it takes from 3 to 5 seconds to reach full speed .
Overload protection system
Performs the function indicated in the name itself. If the engine overheats, the disk or gearbox jams, or there is overload, the system will turn off the engine. Its only drawback is that it can be set too “vigilant” and turn off the engine too often due to minor overloads.
Electrodynamic brake
Without such a system, when the saw is turned off, the disk continues to rotate for some time by inertia. The electrodynamic brake, after turning off the rotation, creates a magnetic field in the engine that slows down the rotation almost immediately. This increases safety and convenience when working.
Slip clutch
The function protects the engine mechanically. If the disk jams, when clamped with a certain force, the engine will not burn out, because the drive from the engine to the disk will slip due to the clutch.
Protection against accidental activation
Made in the form of a switch with two buttons. The first button unlocks the main power button. The system increases safety, but creates some inconvenience when turned on.
Pay attention to our selection tips, they will help you make the right choice.
Spindle stop
In order to unscrew the disk clamping washer (remove the disk), you need to fix the spindle (the shaft on which the disk is located). Otherwise, the disk fastening bolt will spin along with the shaft and it will not be possible to unscrew it. On different models, this fixation is performed in two ways:
- The spindle has edges for a wrench.
- A stopper lever is built inside the mechanism, by pushing it in you can lock the spindle.
Tip #7. The option with a built-in stopper is more convenient. But with a wrench it is more reliable, since when the disc fastening bolts are tightly tightened, such stoppers often break off.
Rip fence and guide rail
The rip fence is available with almost all models. It allows you to cut the workpiece into thin slats, but only if at least one side of the workpiece is smooth. The stop is inserted into the saw body, and its platform moves along the flat side of the workpiece, ensuring an accurate cut.
The guide bar is a platform that is placed and secured to the workpiece. The saw moves relative to the guide bar, so it is not necessary to have a straight edge to the workpiece.
Both devices can be useful in certain operations.
The guide allows you to make a very even cut; it is considered especially useful when sawing laminated chipboard.
Spring loaded housing
All models of circular saws are equipped with this function, as it ensures safety. The casing opens slightly as sawing, freeing the passage of the rotating disk through the workpiece. When removing the saw from the workpiece, the spring automatically closes the blade with a protective cover.
Jigsaw
Circular saws and chain saws cannot replace a device that uses a narrow cutting blade that moves up and down at high frequency.
Thanks to this arrangement of the working body, the jigsaw allows you to quickly and accurately cut curved flat parts. Plywood, ceramics and plastic, OSB and soft metal - all of this can be cut with a good jigsaw with a quality file.
For each material, manufacturers make special saws that differ both in the inclination of the teeth and in their frequency.
For example, a saw with a large tooth cuts wood better. A blade with a fine toothed notch can handle sheet metal with confidence. We will not give any special recommendations on choosing saws for a jigsaw, since the manufacturer indicates the recommended type of material on each of them.
The main technical parameters of a jigsaw are engine power, saw speed and maximum cutting depth (indicated for different materials).
For household models, these parameters are within the following limits:
- Power from 400 to 900 W;
- Speed (with the possibility of smooth adjustment from 0 to 3000 rpm);
- Cutting depth (wood - 45-80 mm, steel from 4 to 20 mm).
A useful jigsaw option is a laser pointer. It helps to clearly see the direction of the cut when the marking line is hidden under a layer of sawdust. When choosing an electric jigsaw, pay special attention to the attachment in which the file is attached. It should provide the most reliable clamping possible. Otherwise, the file will regularly jump out of its weak “embrace.”
