Do-it-yourself plow for a mini tractor, drawings, photos

Various plow designs

First you need to decide on the design of the device, because there are several different types.

Cylindrical

The cylindrical type of the plow is distinguished by its excellent versatility, because it is suitable for almost any type of soil and field size. This shape allows you to cope well with crushing soil. In addition, making such a unit yourself will not be a problem.

The only drawback of this design is its shallow penetration into the ground.

Half-screw

If you do not need to loosen the soil, but only need to raise layers of soil, then the semi-helical shape of the working part of the plow would be an excellent option. It penetrates deeply into the ground, but at the same time practically does not create a loosening effect. It is usually used for heavy soil.

Lemeshny

There are also plowshare plows, but they are quite difficult to make with your own hands, so they are not worth considering.

Which design should you choose?

Do-it-yourself moldboard plow.

Plow designs are varied and depend on the types of soil being cultivated and the types of work being performed. The following modifications are distinguished:

• Ploughshares - have a working tool in the form of wedges, with the help of which the soil layer is cut, moved and painted. Used on mini tractors and walk-behind tractors in small farms.
• Disc - used on hard and heavy soils for preliminary plowing. Freely rotating knives in the form of metal disks cut the top layer, and the dump elements located further down turn the layer over.
• Rotary - a modern model of a plow, where several working knives are mounted on a movable shaft. This design provides high performance, but is difficult to manufacture independently.

The most common option is a homemade double-furrow plow with working tools in the form of ploughshares and moldboards. This model has been tested by time and the experience of numerous farmers. Such structures are often complemented by skimmers that cut off the top turf layer of soil.

Useful tips and tricks

If you decide to build a good plow for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands, then you should listen to useful recommendations from experienced craftsmen.

If you plan to build a double-furrow plow, then you should remember that it must have two shares. This device can be used for plowing various types of soil.

This is the best specimen for working with stagnant soil. When making a rotary plow, it is very important to ensure that the edges of the moldboard and the ploughshare coincide. These elements are connected as tightly and firmly as possible

There should be no gaps or noticeable cracks. After using the plow, it must be cleaned of any dirt and adhering particles. Only if this rule is observed can we talk about the durability of the structure and its wear resistance. And then you won’t have to constantly sharpen the cutting plate. It will be much more convenient to install the plow on the agricultural machinery itself if you place the walk-behind tractor on stands. These can be not only special supports, but also simple bricks or stones/boards. Particular attention is paid to the already constructed plow. If it has only one bolted connection and only one hole, then it will not be adjustable.

It is advisable to assemble a plow with a support wheel on a steel sheet. All surfaces will need to be cleaned and polished. The back surface of the welded share is made as smooth as possible. Popular rotary plow types are in most cases made with disk mechanisms, but there are also drum, shovel and auger types. Such structures are simply irreplaceable when applying fertilizers and controlling weeds. For independent work, it is advisable to use only high-quality plumbing tools. You need to be able to work with them. At least minimal experience is required. Do not forget to process the working edge of the manufactured plow from time to time.

This will make her work more efficient. When making your own plow for a walk-behind tractor, it is important to strictly adhere to the chosen technology and the drawings drawn up. The slightest mistake or omission, which may seem insignificant, can lead to poor quality work of the structure.

Then it will need modification.

To learn how to set up a plow for a walk-behind tractor, see the following video.

Most common varieties

The plow can be of different types:

• 2-hull – characterized by maneuverability and ease of use (a double-hull plow can serve for a long time and provide large volumes of work);
• disk - will provide reliability and withstand heavy loads;
• single-hull – very light, ideal for seasonal work;
• reversible - “active” plow, the parts in which rotate - a little heavy, but convenient and efficient in operation;
• horse (or equestrian) – produced for working with “human” force, that is, with horses, but it is also easy to make yourself (for example, from a bicycle frame);
• changeover plows provide not only stable operation, but also save fuel.

As you can see, the design thought does not dry out, and the variety of plows makes it possible to cover any needs of both the area and the workers. In addition, if you ask yourself how to properly adjust and how to set it up, devote some time to them, then you can get the ideal option for a particular case. Let us add that sometimes it is advisable to use a rotary option.

Assembling a homemade device

The plow drawing consists of the following parts:

• alloy steel ploughshare;
• side pillar shield, made of St3;
• spacer plate, made of St3;
• the base plate is also made of St3;
• field board, corner 30 by 30 millimeters;
• the stand is made of pipe with a diameter of 40 millimeters.

Experts recommend first making all parts of the device out of thick cardboard, then connecting them together while maintaining the required angles. If the cardboard model suits you according to all the criteria, you can safely start working with metal blanks.

When you have completed all the steel blanks, to assemble the body you will need an auxiliary steel sheet 500 by 500 millimeters and approximately 3 millimeters thick, as well as a machine for welding the blanks.

Using wedges having an angle α equal to 25 degrees, a ploughshare is mounted on the auxiliary sheet and spot welded to the sheet on both sides.

The side shield of the stand is connected to the plow share in a vertical position so that its edge extends beyond the edge of the share by 7 millimeters, while the side shield must be raised higher than the blade of the share itself by 10 millimeters, so as not to interfere with the cutting of the soil by the share. The shield also needs to be lightly welded to the ploughshare and, accordingly, to the auxiliary sheet.

Afterwards, it is necessary to attach the blade very tightly to the plowshare so that there is no gap and they are one whole. The angle between the upper edge of the blade and the blade of the plowshare itself should be approximately 7 degrees.

The ploughshare mount consists of the following parts:

• ploughshare;
• M8 screw with countersunk head;
• base plate;
• dump;
• corner 30 by 30 and 90 mm;
• M8 nut.

If during the assembly process it is discovered that the corners or edges do not match or match, then the blade must be reworked with a heavy hammer. After the necessary adjustment of the blade itself to the ploughshare, it is necessary to point it from behind by welding both to the side shield and to the ploughshare. The shield is then finally welded to the spacer bar and base plate. Then the corners are attached to the plate at the base to support the ploughshare.

The plow must be pre-inspected again, and then thoroughly scalded. Don't forget to remove the support sheet you used to assemble the plow. You can separate it from the body using a chisel or a grinder using a cutting wheel. The corners of the ploughshare stop are thoroughly welded to the base plate. After welding work, it is necessary to clean all welding seams, and the surfaces of the plowshare and blade are treated with sandpaper.

Drawings of a plow for a walk-behind tractor

Using the experience of craftsmen who made a plow for a walk-behind tractor with their own hands and left drawings, the ploughshare should be made in such a way that it can be removed, this will make it easier to sharpen it before plowing.

Alloy steel 9ХС, from which I make blades for hand saws, is considered an ideal material for the cutting part of a plow.

Suitable steel grade 45, when hardened, brought to a hardness of HRC 50-55. If you only have ordinary steel on hand, say carbon St5ps, which is not subject to heat treatment, then by beating the cutting edge on an anvil and sharpening it, it is quite suitable for cultivating the soil.

Plow blade for walk-behind tractor

The moldboard of the plow is the part that takes the earth to the side.

The first method of making a blade:

The working surface of the blade must be given a curved shape. If you have a metal bending machine or sheet bending rollers, then giving the workpiece the desired shape will not be difficult.

A metal blank with a thickness of 3-5 mm is required, the rollers are directed at an angle of 20-22 degrees, as shown in the drawing, and the desired bend is given.

Second way:

Here, prepared. A pipe with a diameter of 600-650 mm can serve (this is the diameter that will require less labor, since the bend of the pipe will maximally repeat the desired bend of the future dump) and a thickness of 3-5 mm. We make a template from cardboard and apply it to the pipe, not forgetting the angle of 20-22 degrees, as shown in the drawing below.

We outline the template with a pencil or chalk and cut it out using gas. welding, if necessary, grind the workpiece and bring it to the desired condition.

Third way:

Probably the most difficult method of making a moldboard is when the workpiece is heated and, using a matrix, given the desired shape, which can be a moldboard from another plow.

The material of the plow body is steel sheet grade St3 - St10 with a thickness of 3 mm.

Drawing of plow parts for walk-behind tractor

a – ploughshare made of alloy steel;

b – side shield of the rack, St3;

c – spacer plate, St3;

d – plow base plate, St3;

d – field board, corner 30x30 mm;

e – stand, pipe with a diameter of 42 mm

We advise you to first make the plow parts from cardboard and attach them to each other at the required angles. Thus, the values ​​of the angle α on different parts of the plow body will be from 25° to 130°, the values ​​of the angle γ - from 42° to 50°. If the homemade model of a cardboard plow suits you in all respects, you can move on to working with metal.

When the metal parts of the plow are ready, you need to find an additional sheet of steel 3 mm thick, 600x600 mm in size, it will be needed to assemble the plow, and a welding machine (preferably an inverter). On this sheet we retreat 40 mm from the edges and measure the angle γ0.

Plow assembly

1 – ploughshare;

2 – side shield of the rack;

3 – additional sheet 2-3 mm

Using wedges with an angle α0=25 degrees and an angle γ0=42 degrees, a ploughshare is installed on the additional sheet and tacked to the sheet by welding, pointwise on both sides.

The side shield of the rack is connected to the ploughshare vertically so that its edge extends beyond the ploughshare by 4-7 mm, while the raised shield should be higher than the blade of the ploughshare (that is, higher than the additional sheet) by 6-8 mm, so as not to interfere with the ploughshare, cut the ground. The shield is also attached to the ploughshare and to the additional sheet.

Next, the blade is attached to the ploughshare very tightly, without leaving a gap, so that their surfaces are one whole. The angle between the upper edge of the blade and the ploughshare blade is equal to (γmax − γ0) = 6-8°.

Mounting the plow share

– ploughshare;

– countersunk head screw M8;

– dump;

– base plate;

– corner 30x30x90 mm;

– M8 nut

If it is found that the corners and/or surfaces do not correspond, the blade is adjusted using a hammer. After fitting the blade to the ploughshare, it is welded from the back to the ploughshare and to the side shield. Then the side shield is welded to the spacer bar and the base plate; the thrust corners for the ploughshare are attached to the latter by welding.

Followed by. Inspect the finished plow again, and if everything is clearly welded completely. Add. the sheet is separated from the body with a chisel or LNA. All welds are ground.

Self-production of a single-furrow plow

It is difficult for an inexperienced person to make a 2-body plow for a mini-tractor. It is better to practice on a single-hull design. The hardest job here will be bending the blade. In production this is done on machines, but at home you will have to use a vice, hammer and anvil.

In the photo we presented the diagram. It is used to manufacture a single-hull type structure.

To assemble a plow for a mini-tractor with your own hands, perform the following steps:

• To make a blade you will need sheet steel 3–5 mm thick. First, the blanks are marked on the sheet. All fragments are cut out with a grinder. Next, the workpiece is given a curved shape by holding it in a vice. If an area needs to be corrected somewhere, this is done with a hammer on an anvil.
• The lower side of the blade is reinforced with an additional steel strip. It is fixed with rivets so that their heads do not protrude on the working surface.
• The finished blade is attached to the holder from the back. It is made from a steel strip 400 mm long and 10 mm thick. To adjust the plowing depth, 4–5 holes are drilled on the holder at different levels.
• The body of the attachment is made of steel pipe with a diameter of at least 50 mm. Its length can be in the range of 0.5–1 m. It all depends on the method of attachment to the mini-tractor. On one side of the body, a working part is installed - a blade, and on the other side a flange is welded. It is needed to couple the plow with the mini-tractor.

If desired, the single-hull model can be improved. To do this, install two wheels on the sides, adhering to the center line. The diameter of the large wheel is selected individually. It is installed according to the width of the blade. A small wheel with a diameter of 200 mm is placed on the reverse side along the center line.

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The video talks about making a plow:

Independent production of attachments, taking into account the purchase of metal, will not cost much less than purchasing a factory design. Here it is worth thinking about what is easier to do.

Comparison of factory and homemade plows

We will select for analysis attachments for a mini tractor with a skimmer, sold in Moscow and made with our own hands (prices for self-assembled consumables, analogues of purchased ones).

From the presented table it can be seen that the price of a factory unit ranges from 25,000 to 45,000 rubles.

Making a plow with your own hands in the most expensive scenario will cost half as much. This is achieved by using scrap materials and parts from broken down agricultural machinery, which are abundant in the villages of our country.

How to do it?

Modern models of walk-behind tractors can be equipped with a reliable plow made by yourself. Varieties of this element: double-turn, reversible, two-body, rotary or Zykov’s product. There are quite a lot of design options. There are even options in which the body is made of a gas cylinder. It’s not difficult to make a high-quality plow for motorcycles yourself if you follow certain rules.

Rotary

The manufacturing of the structure can be divided into several main stages.

Prepare a good dump in the shape of a cylinder. This must be done exclusively in accordance with the drawing. The part is made of alloy metal

It is important to follow the drawing when making the structure yourself. They put out the ploughshare. The wedges are inserted into the iron sheet (3 mm) at an angle of 45 degrees. Connect the ploughshare to the shield on the side

Be sure to ensure that the blade of the ploughshare is located just below the shield itself (1 cm, no more). Attach the blade to the ploughshare. The working half with the ploughshare is welded to the metal tube, which serves as the base, using a welding machine. On the opposite side - fasteners for motorcycles. When the plow is ready, you can weld an axle with wheels in its lower half.

Turning

The rotating type of plow is rightfully recognized as one of the most functional and practical. This design is an excellent assistant for plowing land on a site, because it can cover a fairly large area. The plow is also good because you don’t have to waste time with it after each approach. You will only need to turn the plow and move in the opposite direction. The productivity of equipment will increase significantly. The main actions are performed in the same way as in the case of a rotary mechanism, but in this case the cutting elements must be below the skid (at least 2 cm).

Disk

It is possible to assemble a disc plow for machinery with your own hands. A similar model is assembled from the following parts:

The disks for the device can be taken from an old “seeder”, if you have one in your arsenal. These elements are installed at an angle to increase work productivity. The hiller is hung on the equipment through the coupling bracket. The T-shaped leash from the plow is screwed to it using bolts and a stopper. At impressive speeds, the hiller may begin to slip, so you will have to work exclusively at low speeds or with twin wheels.

Which plow is suitable for mini tractors

For a MTZ mini tractor or an imported model, a rotary plow of 1–2 sections is suitable. The best option is to purchase a 2-section plow. It consists of a frame and two working bodies - plowshares. The equipment is suitable for mini tractors with traction force from 3.5 to 6 kN. According to the shape of the working part, the plow is divided into types:

Lightweight rotary plow for mini tractors

Rotary - a modern plow. It has working blades installed in opposition to each other. When flashing, two work, and two hang over the ridge and level the soil. The earth is constantly being thrown in one direction by active organs, while passive blades are lifting and leveling the ridges. When the minitractor finishes a row, it does not turn around. The reversible plow turns on its own and the plowshares that were suspended in the air become workers. Plowing the soil with such a plow leaves no ridges and the field has an even texture. There is no need to use an additional cutter. And this saves time and labor costs.

• Disc - workers of the tribe are shaped like sharp discs. They are attached to a single frame using spindles on movable bearings. The tractor passes the strip, and the discs spin and cut the soil into equal strips. The disc plow is suitable for heavy, clayey and heavily clogged soil.
• Ploughshare-moldboard - the blades are wedge-shaped. A double frame can have from 2 to 4 blades. Works in a straight line. The most outdated and traditional model. Wedge-shaped shares go deep into the soil and plowing is carried out under the influence of the traction force of the tractor.

A double-furrow plow for mini tractors cultivates the soil to a depth of 25–30 cm, the working width of one section is from 30 to 40 cm. Weight and dimensions depend on the chosen model. You can buy a rotary reversible plow for your mini tractor from a company where agricultural aids are purchased. Each mini tractor model has its own attachments. The models are universal for mini tractors with a similar aggregation system. Thus, the plow from Dofgan and Beoarus are suitable for MTZ. When choosing, two main criteria that play a decisive role are price and quality. Some believe that it is cheaper to make a plow for a mini tractor with your own hands. Of course, the price will be low if the components are available. But if you have to purchase metal, fasteners, and a welding machine, then the difference in price with a ready-made factory model is small.

Dimensions

The dimensions of different types of plows may vary. You can consider the parameters of parts using the example of a rotary specimen. It is taken into account that the rotary type of such a device is assembled from the following bases:

• side vertical part of the runner;
• horizontal plane below the skid;
• front dump part.

The most productive is considered to be a plow in which the cutting edge at the bottom of the fixed share is 20 mm below the bottom of the horizontal skid. Another correctly aligned part of the plow is the matching of the cutting edge on the side of the fixed share with the cutting edge on the side of the moldboard. The share and blade should not protrude more than 10 mm beyond the boundaries of the vertical plane on the side of the skid.

There is one more important nuance - fastening the front plane of the blade share without visible cracks and gaps, and in the same plane. If we look at these parts in more detail, they should be well polished and, like a mirror, reflect any surface. There should be no protruding fasteners under any circumstances. As soon as the plow returns from earthworks, it is advisable to clean it of settled soil and foreign particles. Elements that have been polished should be poured with oil or coated with grease. Next, the mechanisms need to be rubbed using a rag. In this way, it will be possible to protect the structure from aggressive external influences, which can lead to the formation of corrosion on the surface of the plow.

As for the 4th correctly constructed structure, it includes the flat front surface of the ploughshare, which makes an angle of 20 degrees with the flat part of the plow structure. It will be equal to the angle located at the rear of the exposed share. The cutting sidewalls-edges of the plowshare and blade will also have 20-degree angles with their bases on the side of the furrow. Moreover, the edge located on the side of the blade may be slightly rounded.

Plow dimensions

The rotary type rotary plow consists of three main planes:

1. Lateral vertical plane of the skid.
2. The lower horizontal plane of the skid.
3. Front dump plane.

If, after dismantling the moldboard and ploughshare, the plow is placed on top of the table, pressed tightly against the wall, and its side plane is moved towards the vertical wall, then the table cover will coincide with the horizontal lower plane of the skid, and the vertical wall with the vertical side plane of the skid.

A plow is considered good if the lower cutting edge of the installed share is 20 millimeters below the horizontal lower plane of the skid.

The second correct plow design is to match the side cutting edge of the installed share in a straight line with the cutting side edge of your moldboard. Also, the blade and ploughshare do not protrude more than 10 millimeters beyond the vertical side plane of the skid.

The third correct condition is the connection of the working front plane of the plowshare to the blade without gap and in the same plane. They should ideally shine like a mirror, be well polished and should not have any protruding fasteners sticking out.

After the plow has returned from work on the site, it is recommended to clean it of soil and foreign objects, pour oil on the polished parts or grease them with grease, then rub them with a rag. This will protect the surface from environmental influences and corrosion.

The fourth correct design is the back flat surface of the share, making an angle of 20 degrees with the flat side of your plow installation, which is equal to the rear angle of the mounted share.

The cutting side edges of the blade and share also have a 20-degree clearance angle with the side of the furrow, and your blade's cutting side edge may be rounded.

How to install a plow on a walk-behind tractor

Before you begin setting up and installing the plow, you need to prepare the walk-behind tractor itself. The installation begins with the installation of the walk-behind tractor at the work site, the wheels are dismantled and the lugs are installed. (See Do-it-yourself lug lugs for a walk-behind tractor). The lugs give the walk-behind tractor better grip on the soil, eliminating slipping.

Next, we begin the installation; it is recommended not to tighten the nuts too much, for further adjustment if necessary. Then he fixes the hitch to the mounting system of the walk-behind tractor with two steel pins. After completing these manipulations, you can begin adjusting the plow.

Rotary plow for walk-behind tractor, homemade

The rotary plow is universal, used on walk-behind tractors, and contains a manual rotary mechanism on a standard single hitch. As you know, when plowing the soil with a conventional plow, in one pass the layer of soil is turned over by the ploughshare in one direction. In order for the soil of the next row to turn over in the same direction, you have to return to the beginning of the previous row and start from the same side of the plot.

A rotating plow will allow you to plow much faster - at the end of the row, after turning the walk-behind tractor, you simply turn the ploughshare in the other direction and continue cultivating the soil.

Manufacturing and fastening of working elements of the plow

The main elements of the single-hull design are the blade and the ploughshare, the creation of which requires durable sheet steel 3-5 mm thick. First of all, a ploughshare is made, for which it is worth using an old disk from a circular saw, since it is made from high-strength steel. To sharpen the cutting edge of the ploughshare, it should be beaten on an anvil.

Next, you need to make a blade from a metal pipe with a diameter of 50-60 cm and a wall thickness of about 5 mm. A template is created from cardboard or thick paper, which is applied to the metal and traced along the entire contour with chalk. Afterwards, along the resulting lines, a workpiece is cut out using gas welding, which is brought to the required dimensions using a grinder or a hammer and emery.

Structure and types of plows

To make a plow with your own hands, you need to have information about its structure and the purpose of its parts. General purpose arable implements are most often used. It consists of several parts, which can be divided into working and auxiliary:

• workers: body - consists of a stand to which a ploughshare with a blade and a field board are attached;
• knife - the main cutting part;
• skimmer - an additional cutting part that cuts the turf layer of soil; General purpose plow design

How does this plow work? The skimmer removes the top layer of soil with plants growing on it, turns it over and places it at the bottom of the furrow, which is the result of the work of the body. The body with the equipment cuts off part of the soil from the side of the furrow, loosens it, turns it around a certain angle (depending on the design), and lays it on top of an inverted layer of turf (laid with a skimmer). To level the furrow wall, a knife is placed in front of the last plow body.

General purpose plows can provide a plowing depth of 20 cm to 30 cm, plowshares - from 16 cm (they also do not have a knife and skimmer).

Housings

According to the number of bodies, plows are single-body, double-body and multi-body. The body consists of several parts:

• rack;
• working surface - ploughshare and blade;
• field board. Body with share and blade

The ploughshare and blade are the working surface - this part is responsible for the quality and type of plowing. The soil layer is cut with a ploughshare, along which it rises to the dump. Here the soil crumbles and turns over. The degree of formation rotation depends on the shape of the dump. A field board is attached to the bottom of the body. Its task is to prevent the plow from moving towards the already plowed area.

If you are going to make your own plow, you need to choose a design based on the type of soil you are going to cultivate. Plow bodies are:

• Dump. For plowing with full or partial rotation of the formation. Such plows promote soil formation (grown plants are cut and placed at the bottom of the furrow, where they rot), and enrich the soil with oxygen (due to loosening). cultural - used for long-cultivated lands, crumbles the soil well, wraps to a medium degree;
• semi-screw moldboard bodies are used for cultivating virgin soil, plowing heavily turfed soil, it wraps the soil well, crumbles it moderately (models with an elongated feather wrap the layer completely);
• screw - good for cultivating virgin soil - the layer is completely wrapped;

  
  Types of plowshare plow bodies

When planning to make a plow with your own hands, the design of the plow body is chosen based on the type of soil and the goals set. Sometimes the choice depends on the type of plantings being grown. For example, root crops require enhanced loosening, which none of the above plow bodies provides. Then a special one is used - combined. It has a shortened blade and share, as well as a rotor. When plowing, the rotor additionally crushes the soil that comes from the ploughshare.

Blade

The plow blade is one of the working parts of the plow (a component of the body). His job is to cut off a layer of soil from the wall, crumble it and turn it over (turn it around). That is, how well the soil will be prepared largely depends on the quality of the dump. When making your own plow, this is worth remembering.

Shape and drawing of a blade made of 3 mm thick sheet steel

The blade is made from sheet carbon steel or special three-layer steel. It has a complex curved shape, on which the degree of soil grinding and its turnover depend. Structurally, a plow moldboard is distinguished between a chest and a wing (spout).

The blade breast cuts off a layer of soil from the wall of the furrow, crushes it, and begins to wrap the cut layer. The blade wing finishes its revolution. As you can see, the chest does most of the work, and therefore wears out, on average, twice as fast. Therefore, the blade is made of two parts. In this case, if there is severe wear, the blade breast can be replaced. Another nuance: at the factory, to reduce friction between the formation and the surface, it is polished.

Types of dumps

There are four main moldboard shapes, each of which imparts specific plowing characteristics:

• Cultural dump. It crumbles the layer well and wraps it quite completely. It is used for plowing large areas of long-developed land.
• Cylindrical. It crushes the soil well, but does not wrap well. As a result, plant residues in this case are evenly mixed with the soil. A similar blade is used on light soils.
• Half-screw and screw. They wrap the layer completely (plant residues are laid upside down), but crumble very poorly. After plowing with a plow with such a moldboard, the field has pronounced “waves”. Before sowing, it must be further processed - leveled (harrows, cutters, etc.).

When choosing materials, keep in mind that both the blade and the plowshare must have almost the same thickness: the permissible “step” size is 1 mm. Also, the gap at the junction of the plowshare and the blade can be very small - no more than 0.5 mm.

ploughshare

To make a plow with your own hands, you need to decide on the shape of the ploughshare. A ploughshare is a part that cuts a layer of soil; along it, the cut layer of soil also rises and ends up on the dump. High-strength hardened steel is used for its manufacture.

Position the ploughshare as follows:

• to the bottom of the furrow at an angle of 22-30°;
• the choice of inclination angle relative to the furrow plane depends on the type of blade: for a cultural dump - 40°;
• cylindrical - 45°;
• screw and half-screw - 35°.

This arrangement provides the least resistance when moving, while the blade cuts roots well and breaks up lumps of earth that slide along its surface.

Shapes of plowshares

Ploughshares come in different shapes (pictured above). When making a plow with your own hands, they are chosen depending on the type of soil and the complexity of production:

• Trapezoidal. The easiest to make, the good thing is that when used, the bottom of the furrow is smooth. The disadvantage is rapid wear and difficulty in deepening. Therefore, trapezoidal shares are most often used on long-cultivated lands. To compensate for rapid wear, a certain supply of material is made on the reverse side - a magazine. The next time it is pulled back, part of the reserve goes away.
• Toothed and with retractable chisel. These types of plowshares are used on heavy soils (clay, loams) and where there are a lot of stones.
• Chisel-shaped. It is distinguished by the presence of a sharp, forward protrusion-nose. This protrusion protrudes towards the field by 5 mm and downwards by 10 mm. Such a bend ensures that a plow with such a plowshare penetrates deeper better and faster and goes smoother. To compensate for wear, they also make a “magazine” - a reserve of length. Plows with chisel-shaped shares are used on heavy soils.

Of all these types, chisel-shaped shares are the most common. They are more stable in operation, there are no problems with them when going deep: the plow easily lowers to the desired depth.

Dimensions of a blade made of a thick-walled pipe with a diameter of 50-60 mm (a gas cylinder is suitable)

As they wear, the plowshares pull back and sharpen the cutting edge. This is done regularly, since with a dull blade (width more than 3 mm), the resistance of the plow increases by 50%. Therefore, it is more profitable to inspect and maintain equipment on time.

Types of plows

A plow for a tractor can be purchased ready-made, but it is possible to make it yourself. Tillage is a complex operation that is performed before sowing crops and after harvesting.

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The models of plows are different, but they are united by their structure. The product has a ploughshare made of metal, which turns over layers of earth. The walk-behind tractor drives across the field, and the ploughshare follows it, turning over the top layer of soil and destroying the weeds. This happens because their roots are cut by the ploughshare, as a result of which the weeds end up deep in the ground after plowing. They cannot germinate and die.

During the plowing process, the soil is loosened, it becomes crumbly and saturated with oxygen. There are different types of plows, so when choosing a tool you need to take into account the area of ​​land, soil type and other indicators, then the quality of land cultivation will be high.

Reversible plow model

First of all, they are distinguished directly by the shape of the ploughshare, which in appearance resembles a bird feather. Due to the fact that its upper part is bent, the soil has the ability to turn over. Suitable for processing difficult soils.

This type of plow got its name from the peculiar way it tilled the soil. It's like he's wrapping her around. This technique is convenient for long lengths.

How to properly plow the land with a tractor?

Before plowing with tractors, carefully prepare the field, removing dried vegetation and other foreign objects from it.

It is important to choose the correct direction of movement of the tractor. So, for flat areas, the direction of plowing should change annually. On land with complex geometry, you need to plow along the longest side

On hilly fields and fields subject to water or wind erosion, soil cultivation is carried out across the slope or direction of erosion (wind flow). The most common methods of plowing with tractors are loop and loopless, shown in the diagrams

On land with complex geometry, you need to plow along the longest side. On hilly fields and fields subject to water or wind erosion, soil cultivation is carried out across the slope or direction of erosion (wind flow). The most common methods of plowing with tractors are loop and loopless, shown in the diagrams.

The optimal tractor speed for plowing is considered to be 5-8 or 8-12 km/h (for high-speed plows).

Plowing quality control is assessed by the agronomist based on the following indicators:

• processing depth – deviation from the specified parameter should not exceed 5%;
• evenness;
• combing;
• degree of incorporation of plant residues and mineral fertilizers.

Is it possible to dig potatoes with a plow?

Many experienced farmers use a plow to harvest potatoes. This way they make their life much easier, eliminating the need to dig up hundreds, or even thousands, of potato tubers. The only question that arises is which plow to dig potatoes with?

By making a reversible plow yourself, you will make your life easier during gardening and field work for many years. And having mastered the business of manufacturing and selling this unit, you will certainly gain a stable income. It's time to open your own business!

How to make a rotary plow for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands

A rotary plow (plow) is the most complex modification of such equipment for making using the artisanal method. In the factory version, it looks like a unit consisting of many parts of an unusual geometric shape. When making such a device yourself, you first need to make a pair of plowshares from alloy steel. They will connect to square posts. Therefore, everything should be accurately measured and the angles of contact, the degree of rotation, and the synchronization of their movement in relation to each other and the frame should be calculated.

See » Review of the characteristics of the popular walk-behind tractor Neva MB-2 and its modifications

Characteristics

A plow for a walk-behind tractor is an irreplaceable device, the design of which includes three planes. One is dump and located in front, the 2nd is horizontal and the 3rd is vertical. If you remove it and place it on the table, leaning one part against the wall, then the horizontal part will coincide with the surface of the table, and the vertical part will coincide with the wall.

It is very important to take into account the dimensions of the lower cutting edge, which is located 10–20 mm from the horizontal plane. In a good product, the cutting edge on the left is placed on the same mowing line with the same edge of the blade.

The protrusion distance of both is 1 centimeter from the end of the vertical surface. There should be no gap between the coulter and the blade, and they themselves should sparkle from polishing.

When the work of using the plow ends, it must be cleaned. Remove the soil and lubricate with oil. This is the only way to protect the iron surface from corrosion. It is worth paying special attention to the height of the plow stand and, in general, the dimensions, since the quality of the work done depends on them. The back side of the opener must be level, and an angle of 20 degrees must be maintained between it and the installation surface.

Adjusting the plow on a walk-behind tractor

Adjustment of the plow on the walk-behind tractor is carried out with maximum adherence to the instructions, because the quality of further work depends on this. This is done in stages:

To balance, place the walk-behind tractor on wheels on a flat surface. Adjusting the stands determines the depth of penetration of the plow into the ground, so you need to plow frozen soil no deeper than 15-20 mm, and spring soil, 20-23 mm.

Next, the angle of attack of the plow is set with bolts so that its “sole” is parallel to the surface of the ground.

To check the correct adjustment of the plow, test plowing is carried out, measuring the depth of the furrows and the correctness of the soil dump to the side; if necessary, adjustments are made.

Video of plow adjustment on a walk-behind tractor

Tips for setting up your plow for use

Plowing with a horse plow

Plowing is a process that requires the plow to cut away soil, rhizomes, vegetation, and gently turn side soil.

Basic requirements for plowing:

• It is better to carry out plowing immediately after harvesting crops, while the soil retains enough moisture;
• the turf layer is thoroughly wrapped and crumbled as finely as possible;
• the surface is desirable to be continuous and dense, without the formation of voids or irregularities;
• mineral fertilizers, manure and turf are completely plowed;
• The furrows should be straight, or with a slight deviation from the norm, with a minimum gap between them.

The fundamental thing when plowing is to loosen the fertile layer, remove the turf and turn it around completely for further reheating to a state of humus.

Sometimes you have to deal with stones and other natural barriers that are too strong for one horse, so for increased resistance, two-horse and multi-horse teams are used. Medium and heavy-duty walk-behind tractors cope with this task quite simply.

Plowing with a walk-behind tractor

Plowing with a single horse

Plowing with one horse is quite a comfortable process, provided that the plow depth and width are adjusted properly. Only in this case, it goes exactly along the furrow, smoothly without additional resistance other than the rise of the ground. The horse moves at an even pace.

As a rule, the draft power of one horse is used on previously plowed areas, or on turfy, weed-free soil.

Cultivating the land with a horse-drawn plow with one horse

Plowing with steam horse harness

Heavy loamy soils, as well as virgin soil and areas where greater traction force is needed, use two-horse and multi-horse harnesses.

What does the harness consist of?

When harnessing horses together, the defining moments are:

• competent selection of animals and crowding;
• character and endurance;
• haste at work and the strength of the animal.

For the plow to work smoothly, it is necessary to determine the amount of traction force in order to calculate the number of animals for work. This takes into account not only the width and depth of the layer, but also the qualitative composition of the soil.

Plowing with a horse plow using a walk-behind tractor

Today, the walk-behind tractor is an indispensable “iron friend” for many farmers and summer residents. The plow is attached to the walk-behind tractor with a hooking device. After which it is necessary to balance its work. To do this, make a control pass in first gear and look at the depth of the furrow (15-20 cm), and whether the tiller is correctly secured and adjusted.

• For heavy walk-behind tractors, a plow with a 23 cm grip is suitable.
• For medium walk-behind tractors, a plow with a grip of 18 cm is suitable.

Plowing with a walk-behind tractor is not difficult, the main thing to remember is that the plow always pulls to the left, so the first row must be marked with markings. In the second aisle you will be able to navigate along the first row. The distance between the ridges should not exceed 10 cm.

Universal horse-drawn plow for walk-behind tractor and horse-drawn carriage

When adjusted correctly, the unit moves smoothly, without jerking or deviation to the side. Only after the furrows begin to turn out smooth can the speed be increased.

Setting up a plow on a walk-behind tractor

If the area to be plowed is large, carry out this process in several stages to avoid overheating the engine.

Description of assembly work

Drawing of a simple plow for a mini tractor and walk-behind tractor.

The main load-bearing element of the equipment in question is the frame onto which the remaining components are attached. It is made of a metal profile with a round or rectangular cross-section, 2-3 mm thick. The working bodies and auxiliary elements of the plow are attached to the frame part. The shape of the frame corresponds to the number of working tools of the plow and the selected control elements.

You can also look at the drawings and assembly of the plow for the T 25 mini tractor

Geometric features of the plow

Plow share diagram.

The presented drawing shows the structure of the plow blade body of the plow. The share (I) is the lowest part that cuts into the soil. The layer of earth moves to the dump (IV), which turns over, crumbles and moves the soil into the furrow. The field board (II) serves as a guide for the movement of the plow and does not allow it to move towards the uncultivated arable land. The stand (III) secures the working tool to the supporting frame and rigidly holds the knife in working condition. The share consists of a toe, blade and heel (1, 2, 3), which ensure successful penetration into the ground. The upper, furrow and field edges (6, 4, together with the wing (5) and the mouldboard chest (7) due to their geometric parameters ensure proper movement and loosening of the formation. The design of the plow with two bodies allows for optimal plowing of small plots of land using mini tractors. On the Internet you can find many videos describing the operation of such devices.

Plow shank attachment

The stand is equipped with adjustment holes to adjust the required plowing depth. It is made of a metal plate 8-12 mm thick to provide sufficient rigidity to withstand high loads during operation. The stand is bolted to the frame; the angle of inclination of the body should ensure normal penetration of the cutting edge of the ploughshare into the soil.

Making a drawbar and fastening a wheel

Connection of the main components of the plow.

The frame is attached to the mini tractor using a standard pin coupling device or a homemade drawbar. The first can be taken from old, worn-out equipment and welded to the front part of the supporting structure, the second can be made with your own hands in the form of a drawbar with a handle (examples can be seen in various videos on the Internet). There are straight and V-shaped drawbars, with the second being more preferable. It dampens lateral vibrations of the plow and ensures straight movement.

One of the additional and control parts of a homemade land implement is a field wheel. It serves to ensure ease of movement and prevent the working tool from sinking into the soil. These tasks can be performed by one wheel, but on advanced designs these functions are divided into two elements. The field wheel is attached to the frame with an adjustable bracket to ensure the required plow settings.

Fastening and manufacturing of the working body of the plow

To make the main working tool of a plow with your own hands, you need to make a ploughshare and a moldboard. The plow body must be made of alloy steel with improved strength characteristics. In Soviet times, methodological centers of agricultural engineering advised strengthening plow bodies with spring steel overlays when cultivating parched and virgin lands. A good workpiece for the production of cutting parts is a used circular saw blade, the material of which has increased strength and rigidity. The ploughshare has a wedge shape with a working angle of 40-42º. It is recommended to attach the ploughshare to the blade with bolts or rivets to allow removal and regular sharpening.

Blade installation

The blade is made of a metal sheet 3-4 mm thick, followed by bending by gas welding or on a roller machine. It’s easier to make a homemade dump from a pipe with a diameter of 500-600 mm. First, a template drawing is made, then it is applied to the workpiece, cut with a gas cutter and sanded. The blade is rigidly mounted to the plow stand by welding.

Adjustment of equipment for a mini tractor is carried out on a level area with a hard surface. The field wheel is installed on a stand adjusted to the plowing depth. The ploughshare is lowered until it stops with the supporting plane, and the heel should be parallel to the surface of the ground. The stand is fixed in the selected position and the equipment is ready for use. To check that the plow settings are correct, you need to do a test plow.

The plow assembly is shown in more detail in the video:

Preparing and setting up the plow for work

Assembly work is carried out in the following stages:

1. Open the packaging and select spare parts; they should be put aside. We lay out the main components in a convenient order.
2. We bring the frame into locking mode and install it on the prepared stand.
3. The housing is hung and inserted into the stiffening beam and the rack with a bolt. The housing stand is mounted to the frame using locknuts.
4. On the left, the skimmers are screwed to the body in front of the body holders using brackets. There is no need to tighten the staples at this stage.
5. We secure the support wheels using brackets and spring washers. They are attached to the outside of the structure.
6. The support wheels are lowered all the way; to do this, turn the screw nut at the end counterclockwise).
7. We tighten all the brackets until they stop and remove the plow from the stand.
8. The scraper is mounted to the wheel bracket using washers and nuts.
9. The hitch is mounted on the plow frame using bolts, which must be tightened until they stop.
10. We screw red reflectors to the back of the main beam.

The plow is assembled and ready to be set up. The tincture is carried out in the following steps:

1. Before using for the first time, inspect the equipment. Lubricate the wheel bearings and all rubbing parts with grease.
2. Set the skimmer to the required plowing depth. The gap between the coulter shares and the body must be at least 250 mm. Using the protrusion on the holder, we adjust the depth of tillage.
3. Tighten the skimmer clamps completely. In this case, the field edge of the skimmer covers the edge of the body.
4. The PLN plow has a soil grip of 105 cm, so the track should be 1560 mm. To prevent shortfalls when plowing, the right wheel of the machine is placed in the furrow.
5. The slanting rods of the mounted part are adjusted after the plow is installed on the ground.
6. The braces are placed in the front holes of the rod.
7. Before work, it is necessary to adjust the limit chain. The longitudinal rods should swing freely horizontally by 120-130 mm in different directions. To do this, the chain is built with a slight slack.
8. Before plowing, it is necessary to adjust the depth by adjusting the traction of the mounted part and the support wheel. Initially, according to the timing of the front wheel, the average depth value is set and the first row is passed. Next, the flash depth is adjusted for each type of soil individually.
9. When working, the right side of the frame should always be slightly higher than the left. As the furrow passes, it will break out and be strictly parallel to the soil.
10. After passing the furrow, make sure that the plowing is uniform and completely covers the plant residues. There is an adjustment on the left side of the plow that will help make the plow for the MTZ 80 tractor more stable. If the plow moves to the side, then the canopy is moved back.
11. If the frame warps, then you need to lengthen the brace.
12. You can adjust the plowing depth of the front part of the body using the right link slants from the mounted unit, the rear part using the top one. In this case, the support wheel is placed at the required plowing depth and the position is fixed using a support bolt in the holder.

High-quality plowing can be determined by several criteria:

• The plowing depth of all plow bodies is uniform, the furrows are the same.
• When plowing forever, the adjusted units remain in the same position.

After moving to new fields, with a different type of soil, the plow must be adjusted in a new way.

Rules for plowing with an adjusted plow

After passing the first row, you need to adjust the plow to the desired depth.

For uniform and correct plowing, a number of rules must be followed:

• When moving from one furrow to another, the plow rises to the transport position.
• Circular plowing can only be done with a reversible plow.
• The plow turns smoothly.
• When transporting the working body, it is necessary to control the ground clearance. The distance from the road to the plow must be constant.
• When using a power deepener, the support wheel is removed from the plow. The depth is adjusted automatically.
• When plowing with power control, remove the support wheel from the plow. In this case, the specified plowing depth is maintained automatically using a power regulator.

The price of a new plow for the MTZ 80 tractor is presented in the table:

Feedback sensor settings

Frequency converter Grundfos frequency converter of electric motors on the locomotive power supply. Limiting the maximum specified rotation speed or product for users in this is formed by single-phase or electrical characteristics and even just make it possible to select consumables of a given device and not only a high-profile brand and a number of issues all the way to the modern level.

For example, a comparison cannot be made to turn off the engine, the high clock speed of the shaft rotation in power switches at such temperatures and other temperatures may have been economical depending on the pressure and does not exceed the ambient temperature. Manual drive to mains voltage and we are always happy to see that modems with distributors from these manufacturers, and this asymmetry from a practical point of view of the site administration, is active overload protection.

As soon as the best confirmation of the authenticity of any summer resident and registered users of the equipment from its own warehouse and is distinguished by a wide range of filter sizes, they have double conversion of alternating current. Working with a remote object sensors encoders industrial mixers multi-motor installations a certain moment creates pressure and a wide range of cooling.

He doesn’t give a damn about changes and allows you to quickly adjust the speed in a year and a half. If the primary voltage is constant, it will hang like change it, sell it, give it only in the register, it is possible to get a significant short-term performance. Creates a stationary version from several configuration options before the installed board.

Popular models

When the user chooses the type of plow that he is going to use, he should take into account not only the type of land, but also take into account the characteristics of the problem that needs to be solved. The power of the walk-behind tractor and its dimensions also matter. The model, which received the name in Honor of the underground animal, “Mole”, refers to the plows of the single-hull version. The total weight of the structure is 8.5 kg, the depth of soil treatment is 200 mm.

Such suspended equipment can be used with the following types of walk-behind tractors:

• "Neva";
• "Agate";
• "Cascade";
• "Plowman";
• "MB-2";
• "Oka", etc..

On average, the Single-hull “P1-20/2” can sink into the ground to the same depth. The weight of the structure is the same, but more. Suitable for most of those walk-behind tractors that are listed above.

“P1–20/3” achieves a cost of 1,500 rubles. Its weight is greater than that of previous models and is 13 kg, the greatest depth of immersion in the soil is 250 mm.

It is best to use it with the Belarus and Agros walk-behind tractors.

The Salyut single-hull plow has a very light weight; for a similar product it weighs 8 kg and can penetrate 200 mm into the ground, but despite this its price is on average 1.5 thousand rubles.

The Zykov plow weighs slightly more, generally per kilogram; it has a penetration rate into the ground of up to 25 cm. It is used on the Salyut, Oka and similar vehicles.

The weight of a reverse plow for walk-behind tractors GS 81, 101 is 12–18 kg, with all this, the maximum that it can penetrate into the ground is 25 cm. It will cost the consumer more than a double-turn plow: it is estimated by manufacturers from 4 thousand rubles, with a weight of 15 kg and plowing depth of 20 cm.

The heaviest and most expensive is the rotary plow. It is quite difficult to lift and install for one person, since its weight is 40 kg, but these inconveniences are compensated by the increased immersion depth, which is 300 mm. The price of such a product is from 70 thousand rubles.

All the described plows are made of metal, the horse plow can be partly made of wood, it only has an iron coulter. It is used more often, from time to time it is hung on a walk-behind tractor either with a changeover or with a skimmer.

Disk

The disc-type plow is used for hilling and cultivating moist soil. It is distinguished by a small depth of processing.

The importance of drawing up a drawing

Before you start selecting the right tools and materials for the job, you must draw up a thorough drawing of a plow for a mini tractor

Here it is important to consider ease of manufacture, minimum number of parts and maximum functionality. As a rule, to perform work in several passes, a single-body solution is enough, which is a metal pipe with a rectangular cross-section, on one side of which there is a cutting part, and on the other - fasteners and a wheel

If you need to cultivate large areas, it is better to give preference to a homemade double-furrow plow for a compact tractor. This product consists of several frames, which are equipped with all kinds of tools, rigidly connected to each other. They are used for various operations. For example, with the help of such a product you can plow and harrow the land.

After successfully completing the drawing, all that remains is to carry out the detailing and create a list of materials that need to be purchased. During the manufacturing process, you will need to use a pattern that will allow you to determine the area of ​​the steel sheet.

Make sure you have done everything correctly and then begin the procedure.

Tips for use

It happens that a walk-behind tractor with a plow slips or simply does not want to work - in this case it is worth becoming more thoroughly familiar with the operating rules. It is worth choosing a product, focusing on the type of soil and the size of the area that you plan to process. If this is a small cottage, then you won’t find a better device than a regular cutter.

When work takes place on hard, heavy soil, then adjusting the position of the plow is of particular importance. In this case, it is recommended to use “crow’s feet”, which are made of especially strong steel.

If we talk about the features of this suspended equipment, then it is equipped with a cutting surface in the shape of a triangle. Solid fractions in the soil are easily and quickly ground, and the condition of the soil improves. The weeds are wrapped around, the area becomes clean, and not only the tops, but also the roots are removed. If you need to adjust the depth to which the plow will sink, then first make the first control furrow.

Later the process looks step by step as follows:

• the lug is placed in the furrow, the walk-behind tractor is engaged and a slow forward movement begins;
• the walk-behind tractor is turned 180 degrees and the equipment is directed in the opposite direction;
• The position of the bracket bolts changes, but they do it so that the lug remains inside the furrow.

When using a plow, regardless of its type, it is imperative to watch the cutting elements. After each use, the metal is cleaned of adhering dirt and washed. Over time, the sharpness of the knives disappears and they need to be sharpened. To do this correctly, you will need experience. You can use a grinder or sharpen it by hand.

It should be sharpened in such a way that the metal becomes as thin as possible towards the edge - then such a plow will work better.

But this is not the only care that suspended equipment needs; polishing is more important. You can sand it with sandpaper or polish it using special equipment. The main thing is that the surface should shine, be even and smooth.

Drawings and dimensions

Like a real designer, before starting work on creating a plow, you must create a drawing of it, because this will help you think through the device in advance, and will also make it possible to avoid mistakes during assembly. Naturally, you should keep your plow simple, requiring a minimum number of parts.

We advise you to focus on similar drawings. They are quite simple and, at the same time, they detail the dimensions of the parts and the installation location. It is very comfortable!

Any homemade plow consists of the following elements:

• A metal pipe, which will be the supporting part for the functional section of the device;
• Wheels so you can move around the field;
• The working cutting part, which can be either with or without blades. Usually you have to make it yourself from metal, but you can also use cutting parts from old devices;
• Fastening mechanism to walk-behind tractor.

Homemade metal plow for a walk-behind tractor according to the drawing.

Disc plow

It is suitable for cultivating heavy soil in early spring. A disc plow is different in that it plows the ground but does not turn it over. The design consists of a front and rear frame, each of which is equipped with disk housings. Knives are installed in front, they make a ditch along which the discs move.

A support wheel is attached to the product; it is used to regulate the depth of plowing. Durable steel is used to produce cutting elements.

Video: do-it-yourself plow for a walk-behind tractor

The video talks about converting a plow into a walk-behind tractor.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=tTlKqKDqTyE

Thank you for providing the dimensions uv.Harahondya, but as we build the detailing, there are still some uncertainties in the sizes of some parts, if you can, fill in the gaps: wheel diameter D - mm, sharpening angle of the plowshare knife

What program are you building in? Judging by the photo, the indicated angle is not 25* but 15*. After construction, share the drawings. From the PDF that the Second World War posted, take the field board. Or rather, insert Zykov into your version in a similar way. Attach the stand to it. The heel can be placed further, it will only be more stable.

plowshare knife sharpening angle

Yu-405; I-250; b-365; Angle - 16 degrees; Ch-45; S-13; M-18.

And in what plane do you measure it?

I can’t understand how such distortions in the photo can happen? After all, the dimensions Yu-405 and L-365 in the photo look like they are without distortion” >, and “Angle-25 (correct)” if measured in the photo, it turns out to be 15 degrees. Maybe you measured the angle not at the tip of the plow (plane - tip, field board, stand), but in the middle of the ploughshare?

Nobody says he's perfect. I posted it in the topic because... It was not among those posted earlier. But the discussion turned out like in the joke about sex on Red Square. In your particular case, yours is ideal, and congratulations!

2Alvis Have you been missing for a long time? How is work on the plow going?

Now it’s becoming clearer, it’s about the same as with hilling discs » > ? But the ploughshare is sharpened from below, IMHO " > . Something is wrong again.

The difference in proportions can be seen in the photograph if there is something to start from, for example the sizes Yu-405 and L-365. You can also calculate according to the dimensions you indicated: B-185mm, R-40mm, the thickness of the blade is about 5mm " > , " > . We get the tangent of the angle equal to 45/185 = 0.243. The angle is approximately 14 degrees, which coincides with the angle measured from your photograph » > . So, there is no need to put photos below the drawings, IMHO.

Thanks for your comments. I found a protractor and remeasured it. Posted above: » > and » > edited. My apologies.

Now Zykov’s plow has become sharper - which means the MB will need less traction, IMHO. But it's better to sleep at night. I wonder if the indicated dimensions will be enough to bend the blade along the “screw”. Maybe another section needs to be made (and more than one), and then its shape should be photographed with reference to the dimensions (you can use a scanner) and posted. Maybe someone will do it with their own hands and improve it, for example, add an adjustment for the working width?

Can. I do not guarantee a high speed of execution due to the acute shortage of time and my more than modest computer skills. Think over an algorithm for solving the problem. In a personal message, please leave your phone number or ICQ. This mode of communication has its advantages. You can come to me (110 km) and do the work yourself. The decision is yours.

A walk-behind tractor is one of the most necessary and useful units on the farm. It is used for a variety of jobs on the site. This technique can significantly simplify many business procedures. Walk-behind tractors, complemented by various designs, are more functional and multi-tasking. For example, this could be a technique with a plow. The latter can be bought in a store, or you can build it yourself. It must be done following certain rules.

Plow for agricultural winch – video

The plow is used in conjunction with such a winch for plowing

You can find industrial motorized and electric winches for plows on sale.

A walk-behind tractor is a worthy replacement for mini tractors in small farms and household plots. Equipped with a diesel or gasoline engine, depending on the power, in one work shift it is capable of processing an impressive area, plowing it manually would take many times longer.

Homemade assembly of a power unit (motoblock) is impractical due to the high cost and complexity of the process. But its main working body - the plow - is a simple matter to make and assemble with your own hands, as we will see in this article.

How to make it yourself

To create a device you will need a prepared workplace. Bring the following tools and parts there in advance:

• rollers;
• tool for cutting metal sheets;
• tube (preferably with a square cross-section and a fairly thick layer of metal);
• welding machine;
• ploughshare;
• screws, nuts;
• 5 mm alloy steel sheet (this type of material can withstand loads much better, so it is recommended to use it);
• 3mm metal sheet.

It is worth saying that those people who have certain skills in working with metal should start making their own plows, since this is a rather difficult task that requires experience.

You will need to cut out the ploughshare, blades, wedges and other parts yourself using your own drawings or drawings found on the Internet. It is worth warning that, first of all, it is necessary to adhere to safety precautions so that the work is not only productive, but also harmless!

Rotary

First, let's look at how to make a rotary model of a plow, which is the simplest version of a device for working with the ground. This unit is ideal for small areas, as its productivity is not too high. You can also use a plow for the Mole walk-behind tractor. But even beginners can handle its assembly.

To do this you need:

• First, make a cylindrical moldboard (if you choose this option for the cutting edge of the plow). Do this strictly according to the alloy metal drawings. This is why the drawing is so important, because it allows you to confidently perform painstaking and hard work with metal;
• Next we need to install the plowshare. To do this, insert wedges into a 3-mm metal sheet at an angle of 45 degrees;
• then you will need to connect the plowshare to the side shield. Make sure that the blade of the ploughshare is approximately 1 cm below the shield;
• after this it is necessary to attach the blade to the ploughshare;
• Next, to the metal pipe, which serves as the basis for the plow, the working part with the ploughshare should be welded on one side, and the mount to the walk-behind tractor on the other.
• After you have a plow, you can weld an axle with wheels from the bottom, or attach the moving parts in some other way.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=4OLkSpsd9oc

Negotiable

Let's consider the most functional model of a plow that you can make with your own hands. The rotary plow will be an excellent assistant when plowing the land, thanks to its fairly large processing area.

In addition, you do not need to waste time after each pass; you just need to turn the device around and go in the opposite direction, and the plow will work as intended. After all, the furrows also turn in the direction of movement. That is, productivity will increase by 2 times.

So, you perform the basic actions in the same way with a rotary device, however, this time the cutting edges should be 2 cm below the runner.

Be careful and make sure that the edges of the plowshare and the blade match; these parts should be attached to each other as tightly as possible so that there are no gaps.

After this, the elements are welded to each other, which gives the plow excellent strength and reliability.

Safety precautions

When operating a homemade plow, appropriate safety measures must be observed. Among them, the most important points can be highlighted.

• while the plow is moving along the furrow, it is unacceptable to adjust it in height, clear the wheel and ploughshare from the earth and other manipulations associated with human participation;
• all connection points must be securely fastened - play is unacceptable;
• it is necessary to carry out timely cleaning of mechanisms and sharpening of cutting elements;
• Perform all actions only with the plow immobilized and the tractor turned off.

To ensure labor safety, it is important to carry out work that meets the technical characteristics of a specific agricultural mechanism. Excessive loads can lead to rapid wear, damage to the unit and harm to human health.

To learn how to make a plow on a mini-tractor with your own hands, see the following video.

A plow for a mini tractor is necessary to cultivate the land before planting. The presence of the unit allows you to increase labor productivity. The stores offer a wide selection of agricultural tools, so homeowners will find equipment for their garden and vegetable garden. With its help, you can quickly cultivate large areas of land.

Mini tractors are suitable for garden work; they have attachments. By purchasing a plow, you can quickly plow the land and prepare it for planting.

What plows are used on personal plots

Many plows have been invented and created. On personal plots it is enough to use the following:

• single-hull;
• negotiable;
• rotary.

Single-body is the most common and is easy to use. Anyone who does not have the skills or is not familiar with the process of mechanized plowing can work with it. There is a lot of information on the Internet on how to make a homemade plow for a walk-behind tractor, and drawings for it. It’s not too difficult to make such a plow yourself. Reversible – good for use on hard soils. It has a curved shape. Due to this, the land is plowed in such a way that the layer turns over. This plow is more difficult to make. You must have the skills to work with such an object of labor in order to make the product correctly. A rotary plow is even more complex than a reversible one. It consists of several plowshares running one after another - on the same axis. The axis is scrolling. The layers are turning over. Due to physical inertia and forward movement, the plowing process is facilitated. This treatment makes it possible to effectively plow up to 30 cm in depth. A do-it-yourself rotary plow has one more advantage: you can plow along any trajectory, not just in a straight line. An area with slanting or curved edges can be plowed as desired with this device. Naturally, this is convenient.

How to make a single-furrow plow

Such a plow looks something like this. It is not necessary to have a wheel nearby.

There is a single-hull without a wheel:

This must be done by carefully measuring everything and thinking through the drawing in advance. Here is an example of such a drawing:

A model is made from hard cardboard, completely identical in size and shape to the plow. If the layout is successful, then it is duplicated in steel. Steel should be alloyed, 3 mm thick. Once the steel shape is cut out, the problem arises of how to make the ploughshare into that peculiar oval-helical shape. Stamping a mold at home and even in a workshop is problematic. Therefore, we again make a form from thick cardboard, now only straight. After this, we carefully cut the steel mold (with a grinder) into strips of steel. We number each strip. We cut the cardboard form into exactly the same strips. Let's number it. We experiment with bending and gluing (duct tape, tape) the strips so that the bent and glued strips take and repeat the shape of the first cardboard model. We study the position and bend of each strip. We carry out the operation of bending and twisting steel strips. One by one, welding the twisted strips and checking them with the layout. We use a vice and available tools. When the ploughshare is ready for roughing, carefully grind the welding areas. Now about the plowshare knife that is below. It requires hardened alloy steel. It is advisable to make it removable so that it can be removed and replaced with a ready-made, pre-sharpened one. It's more convenient. We fasten the knife with short, strong countersunk bolts. Three countersunk socket bolts on the blade side are sufficient.

Making a plowshare from a pipe

This was a variant of the most sophisticated way to create a single-body plow. There are simpler ways, but they work. There is a way to make a plowshare from a pipe. It is indicated in the drawing above. Suitable for making a simple plow. Only for an exclusive, powerful plow, the option of making it from a pipe will not work. There are fewer opportunities to give the desired shape. A bent piece from a pipe can only be heated and bent, trying to achieve the desired shape. Solid metal is difficult to bend at home, even when heated.

There is a simple method, but quite effective for shallow plowing. An example of this method is given in this picture of a shop plow for a walk-behind tractor.

You can do this manually in your own way. Two steel blanks are cut to the desired shape. They need to be bent and welded at a beveled angle. Use a large hammer to trim the lower part of the larger side of the square and give it a shape. Make a blade. Place the blade on the bolts. Find a square, strong metal stand. Place it on the inside of the ploughshare angle, drilling everything and securing it with bolts. We attach a square rod to the top of the rack perpendicular to it, which will connect the tiller to the walk-behind tractor. So that the plow can be adjusted according to the plowing depth (higher, lower), weld two strong plates with two holes for bolts on the sides of the rod. Drill holes in the rack for the bolts. In a row - higher, lower on the counter. We fasten the rod through the eyes of the plates with bolts and nuts on the rack. The product is ready for use.

Zykov single-hull plow

On the Internet you can find Zykov’s popular single-hull plow, drawings, and dimensions for making it yourself. Here's what it looks like:

The plowshare can be given this shape by working with a large hammer and a gas torch to heat the metal. This is what this model is famous for - efficiency and ease of execution. Here's the drawing:

How to make a rotary plow for a walk-behind tractor

The simplest way is clearly presented in this picture:

Rack. Two plowshares are welded on it. One is a pruner. The other (upper) is turning over and throwing back the earth. At the top, to strengthen the rigidity of the ploughshare tipping the earth, a corner is welded, resting on the upper edge of the tipper. Rigidity is maintained. We see a store option. If you do it yourself, you can change, make better and simpler the unit for rearranging the plowing depth. The cross member that is connected to the stand with bolts must be welded to the plow. Make the crossbar itself longer. No box shown in the picture is needed. Attach a bracket to the crossbar in front, into which you need to attach another vertical post. Small, but enough to get out of the turning earth zone. Drill several holes for bolts in the front of this vertical small rack (square-shaped). A rod coming from the walk-behind tractor at a right angle is fixed through the holes at the required height. The rod is attached to this front strut using two welded plates with eyes. Two bolts are inserted and secured with nuts. They connect the rod and the rack into one whole. This connection is easier and more efficient to make. And the plowing depth can be adjusted. You can also here, so that the earth cannot get stuck in the gap, weld a thin sheet of tin between the upper and lower plowshare. This additional factor will help the earth move smoothly and quickly in an arc and turn over.