How to melt lead at home?

How to melt dirty lead?

#1 Post by fantomas » 12/30/2009 7:36 pm —> Added: 12/30/2009 7:36 pm Post title: How to melt dirty lead?

#2 Post by kirkinpuzel » 12/30/2009 07:41 PM —> Added: 12/30/2009 07:41 PM Post title:

#3 Message Anna Alexandrova » 12/30/2009 19:48 —> Added: 12/30/2009 19:48 Message title:

#4 Message Sergey Drovnikov » 12/30/2009 19:54 —> Added: 12/30/2009 19:54 Message title:

#5 Message by fantomas » 12/30/2009 20:04 —> Added: 12/30/2009 20:04 Message title:

And I shoot everywhere where the ground is not frozen! By the way, how is the soil in your yard?

Seriously, I bought it from a metal acceptance shop. But, I have already found out that everything can be melted locally. So the relevance of the issue has disappeared.

#6 Message Granovsky Eduard » 12/30/2009 20:04 —> Added: 12/30/2009 20:04 Message title:

#7 Message fantomas » 12/30/2009 20:14 —> Added: 12/30/2009 20:14 Message title:

I don't see anything funny. If I did not get involved in the melting of dirty lead, although I myself am a welder and an electrical mechanic, this does not mean that I am a guest of the HDPE!

#8 Message Granovsky Eduard » 12/30/2009 20:20 —> Added: 12/30/2009 20:20 Message title:

#9 Message KOTKOTKOT » 12/30/2009 21:17 —> Added: 12/30/2009 21:17 Message title: lead

#10 Message by kirkinpuzel » 12/30/2009 21:20 —> Added: 12/30/2009 21:20 Post title:

#11 Message Granovsky Eduard » 12/30/2009 21:23 —> Added: 12/30/2009 21:23 Message title:

#12 Post by kirkinpuzel » 30-12-2009 21:29 —> Added: 30-12-2009 21:29 Message title:

#13 Message Granovsky Eduard » 12/30/2009 21:32 —> Added: 12/30/2009 21:32 Message title:

#14 Post by kirkinpuzel » 12/30/2009 10:34 pm —> Added: 12/30/2009 10:34 pm Post title:

#15 Message by fantomas » 12/30/2009 22:56 —> Added: 12/30/2009 22:56 Message title:

There are no hard feelings, he is a comedian himself. I can't get enough diving cargo! , or rather, you have to do without a belt.

Firstly, the weight is about a hundred, with a tail. Secondly, the current idea is for large compulsory health insurance companies. Like, I want two bricks for quick release, and pour more sticks so that there is room left in the adjacent compartments.

And for specific advice on roaring - thanks! We'll try it at our leisure. More forms need to be made (select time).

#16 Message Anna Alexandrova » 12/31/2009 00:14 —> Added: 12/31/2009 00:14 Message title:

#17 Message KOTKOTKOT » 12/31/2009 00:28 —> Added: 12/31/2009 00:28 Message title: o

#18 Message Anna Alexandrova » 12/31/2009 00:36 —> Added: 12/31/2009 00:36 Post title: Re: about

#19 Post by kirkinpuzel » 12/31/2009 00:42 —> Added: 12/31/2009 00:42 Post title:

#20 Message Sergey Drovnikov » 12/31/2009 00:44 —> Added: 12/31/2009 00:44 Message title:

Where can I get raw materials?

As for lead, I would advise you to “make friends” with some plumber (or an employee of a car repair shop where batteries are often changed). Personally, I was very lucky - I became friends with a neighborhood plumber who “supplies” me a bunch of lead/water pipe scraps completely free of charge.

If you don’t have such friends around you, then it doesn’t matter. Just find out where metal is accepted (or recycled) in your city and go there for the weekend. Even if you have to buy “pieces” of lead raw materials, don’t worry! You will still be a serious winner, considering the rather “inflated” cost of store-bought / branded weights.

Where to find lead

Natural reserves of iron ore are gradually declining, so the question becomes urgent: where can we get lead to meet the necessary production needs? Now there are a large number of non-ferrous metal collection points that directly cooperate with processing plants, so the market for recyclable materials is developing and in many ways this is the only adequate alternative to non-ferrous metal mining.

Not everyone knows, but lead can be mined at home, and it is not necessary to explore kilometers of fields with a metal detector. You just need to know which household appliances or other products contain this valuable non-ferrous metal.

Home and industrial methods

There is literally a home method to protect lead surfaces from corrosion. Sunflower oil is always available on the farm. Pour it into a bowl and immerse the recently melted figurine in it. Hold for about five minutes, remove, place on a layer of napkins and let dry. In production, graphite lubricant is usually used to protect lead parts from oxidation. You may not have it at hand, but it is not so difficult to acquire. It is found in auto parts stores, household stores, agricultural equipment stores - in a word, where they sell industrial oil. You can order graphite lubricant through the online store. The lead product will retain its shine for a long time. If the product is large, you can simply wipe it with a cotton swab dipped in vegetable oil.

Lead deposits in nature

Lead is found in uranium and thorium ores. This heavy non-ferrous metal is used in shipbuilding, for the manufacture of lead weights, plates, and also for various repair work.

This metal has a number of properties:

This is a fairly soft metal that can be easily scratched.
Resistant to corrosion.
Immunity to radioactive radiation.
Often used for various hunting and fishing needs. The metal melts easily, so it can easily be used to make a sinker for fishing tackle or a bullet.

In addition to being used by fishermen and hunters, this metal is valued on the recyclables market because special protective sheets against radiation and various coatings in shipbuilding are made from it (due to its anti-corrosion properties). This means that it can be handed over quite profitably at collection points, especially with large batch volumes. Therefore, you need to know where to get lead at home, and whether any special tools or devices are needed to extract it.

What should the sinker be like?

A high-quality sinker must meet the following parameters:

be heavy - for the manufacture of parts, as a rule, lead is used, which has the highest possible density from the materials available to the fisherman;
have a streamlined shape with a perfectly smooth surface - when casting the tackle, aerodynamic forces act on the sinker. The rougher the surface of the sinker, the more rectangular its shape, the shorter the flight of the tackle will be when casting, and when retrieving fish or removing the tackle from the water for checking, more effort will be required;
have a reliable fastening for the fishing line;
do not stand out against the background of the bottom, so as not to scare away cautious fish;
made from inexpensive materials.

To put these conditions into practice, it is enough to stock up on the required amount of lead and metal or ceramic utensils for melting this metal.

main sources

This non-ferrous metal surrounds us all in everyday life. We'll list the main sources where you can get lead, so you can choose the one that suits you best.

From battery

Failed power supplies have a large supply of non-ferrous metal. You can find batteries at a landfill or in the garage of a familiar car owner. Generally, most people will be happy to get rid of this junk.

Lead in batteries is contained in the form of lead plates. To get them, you need to drain the electrolyte into a separate container, which involves completely disassembling the battery. The plates are in acid, so they must dry for 24 hours. In addition, the disassembly itself takes a lot of time, and special care must be taken because you will have to come into contact with liquids that are hazardous to health. If you are not sure of your actions, then the battery can be returned to the collection point in a non-disassembled form. Specialists will carry out the disassembly themselves and also send potentially hazardous waste for disposal.

Cable scrap

Another source where you can get lead is scrap cables. Typically, the metal is contained in a protective shell.

At collection points, cable scrap is highly valued if it meets the following requirements:

The metal content in the shell is at least 99%.
Normal radioactive background.
No oxides.
No contamination.

Soft lead can be removed quite easily with a regular knife, but keep in mind that bitumen is applied on top of it, which must first be removed. It melts well, so you can get rid of it by simply holding it over the fire for some time. All this effort totally pays off because the cable lead is much purer than the metal you extract from the battery.

Fishing sinker

You can get them from your friends who are keen on fishing. There is another way - buy them in a special fishing store and then melt them down, but this is an extremely dubious method that is unlikely to bring you much profit.

Car wheel

The design of a car wheel has one lead part - a balancing weight. It weighs only 60 g, so this method of earning money is more suitable for specialized auto repair shops, rather than ordinary car owners. Lead is also found in shrapnel and bearings.

Other metal sources

There are places where lead is found in fairly large quantities, but access to them can be difficult for the average person. The first source is meters. This method is suitable for those who have friends who work in energy services and water utilities. They often have to put or remove seals on meters. They are made of lead, so they can be sold profitably if there are enough of them.

Another source is electrolysis baths, where this metal is found in large quantities. They become unusable over time, so this is a good solution for a company to get rid of scrap metal while making a profit.

Why is it necessary to recycle non-ferrous metal?

Many people have an incorrect perception of the activities of non-ferrous metals collection points. In their view, these are semi-legal organizations that profit from the population. This opinion is largely explained by the work of points that operate unofficially, buying up even what is prohibited from being accepted under the current legislation of the Russian Federation.

is a specialized reception point that operates in strict accordance with current regulations. This is why it is profitable for us to sell lead and other non-ferrous metals:

You make a profit - about 70-120 rubles per kg (depending on the type of scrap metal).
For enterprises, this is a good opportunity to get rid of potentially hazardous waste, unloading their industrial territory.
Environmental protection. This non-ferrous metal is toxic, so it must not be disposed of with other household waste.
Processing raw materials for recycling involves lower costs than extracting metal from nature. At the same time, this is a more environmentally friendly process.

Temperature and characteristics of lead melting

Lead, designated by the symbol Pb (plumbum), is one of those metals that have been known to mankind for a long time. Lead finds in the form of beads date back to 6000 BC. In Ancient Rome, lead water pipes and dishes were made until the toxicity of lead compounds was proven.

Now it is a strategic metal, it is used in the defense industry. Explosives and current sources are made from it. Lead is inexpensive to produce and the metal is extracted from naturally occurring minerals. First, a rough alloy is obtained, then a pure one.

It is not difficult to melt lead at home; the melting point of lead and its alloys is not higher than +330–450°C, and that of solders is not higher than +230°C. The metal is not subject to corrosion damage, is ductile, malleable, and is used in many industrial fields. It is used to make household items, fishing gear, and do-it-yourself solders by filling molds with liquid lead.

Processing of freshly cast sinkers

Once the sinkers are cast, they must be properly processed. If the lead weight was cast in an aluminum spoon, then a hole must be drilled in the metal to attach the fishing line.

The hole is drilled in the narrow part of the sinker using an electric drill and a 2 mm twist drill. It is imperative to chamfer the hole with a drill of a larger diameter, otherwise the sharp edges of the metal will lead to rapid abrasion of the fishing line and breakage of the sinker.

Freshly cast sinkers must be slightly shaded so that the shine from the smooth lead surface in the water does not scare away wary fish. For this purpose, a concentrated aqueous solution of potassium permanganate is used, in which the part must be kept for several hours.

If, after casting, sagging has formed on the surface of the product, they must be removed using a velvet file.

When working with lead, you must remember the rules for safe handling of heavy metals. It is strictly forbidden to breathe lead vapors, as well as to use kitchen utensils for their intended purpose after contact with this metal.

How to make a sinker for fishing is described in detail in this article, and if you strictly follow all the recommendations, you can get a very high-quality product with excellent aerodynamic properties at home.

The sinker model can be easily cut out of a piece of bark with a knife or sculpted from plasticine. For a one-time casting, the mold can be pressed in sand or dry soil, but then the surface of the load will be rough. This is the fastest way to cast sinkers, which you can use directly while fishing.

Plaster mold for casting sinkers.

If you want to make a mold for repeated casting, then you should use a plaster mold (Fig. 1.).

Rice. 1. Gypsum mold with a groove for pouring lead and vents for air removal

In accordance with the size of the future cargo, make two identical boxes from thick cardboard. In the first, spread the plaster and make an impression with a model of the sinker. The impression must be made exactly on half of the model. Don’t forget about the lead filling system - to do this, use a nail (if the mold is small) to push through a small groove-groove that widens towards the end. If you are going to melt a large load or the quality of the sinker is very important to you, then you should take care of additional grooves for removing air from the mold. When the plaster hardens, spread the plaster in the second box. The frozen mold must be covered with soapy water so that the second one does not stick to it, then put a sinker in it and connect the molds, pressing them tightly together. When the plaster has hardened, open the molds and remove the model from them. You now have a sinker mold that will stand up to repeated use.

In order to cast a sinker in your mold, just press the molds tightly against each other, holding them with a clamp. Then melt the lead and carefully pour it into the mold. It is important that the lead cools on its own, never try to cool it with water (this can ruin the sinker), and do not open the mold ahead of time.

Casting a sinker in a wooden mold.

I currently use this method. I don’t know about others, but it’s easier for me to melt in a wooden form (Fig. 2.). It’s just that I have access to this material, and there’s less fuss with wooden forms than with plaster ones, although everyone chooses for themselves.

Rice. 2. Wooden molds for casting weights

To begin with, you need two planks, the size and thickness of which depend, naturally, on the future sinker. I prefer mahogany - this material is hard and can withstand repeated castings. If you can’t find mahogany, you can use any hardwood - oak, ash, etc. When the planks are selected, draw on them the contours of the sinker and the lead pouring system. It is important that when combining the parts the pattern matches, otherwise the sinker will come out uneven. Next, use a chisel or chisel to cut out the indentations. Make them a little deeper than needed: at first glance they will seem deep, but when casting the weight will come out flat. So that the sinker can be attached to the fishing line, insert a wire eyelet into the mold, as shown in Fig. 3.

Rice. 3. Options for the location of the wire eye: a – external; b – internal, in a special groove

The external location of the ear does not require any additional effort, but if there is too much lead, the lead will fill the ear, and picking it out from there is not easy. The second option requires an additional groove, but then there will be no fuss. The choice is yours! When you decide on the location of the eyelet, insert it into the mold and align the parts, holding them with a clamp (Fig. 4.).

Rice. 4. Mold ready for casting

It is very important that there are no gaps between the forms - the lead may spread and the load will not come out. Work in a well-ventilated area as the mold will smoke slightly. To ensure that the load comes out neatly, melt only the amount of lead that is necessary to fill the volume of the mold without the volume of the groove for supplying lead (this is important when using the external method of attaching the eye). Do not try to separate the molds before the lead has completely hardened - you may break the load.

When the lead has cooled, carefully open the molds and remove the weight by the eye. All seams and inaccuracies can be sanded down with sandpaper. If the molds have moved and the weight does not come out, then it can be melted again, not forgetting to add a little lead, since during the melting process it burns out and decreases in volume. If you want to make a sliding weight, then instead of an eye, insert a nail into the mold. When the lead hardens, use pliers to remove the nail and insert an empty ballpoint pen in its place. The rod is needed to prevent the lead from chafing the fishing line.

Smelting sinkers in a potato tuber.

I have been fishing for a long time and have been making sinkers. During this time I tried many different methods. I was constantly looking for a casting mold that would always be at hand, that was easy to make, and in which the most intricate shapes of sinkers could be cast. And I guess I found it – it’s a potato tuber. Yes, yes, ordinary potatoes. A fisherman I knew first told me about this method.

The form is performed in the following sequence. To obtain a casting cavity of the required size and shape in the tuber, it is necessary to make a metal model of the future load (most often conical). The model can be turned on a lathe or using an electric drill with a file, holding the workpiece in a chuck. The tuber must be large so that the wall thickness is sufficient. Then the casting cavity is pre-selected with a knife. Next, having heated the model to a temperature at which it, in contact with the tuber, will leave a “crust” on it, we will process the cavity of the future form. The point of this treatment is to deprive the surface layer of the tuber of moisture, where the molten lead will come into contact with the potato, and if there is more moisture than necessary, you can get burned, since the metal will turn steam into water contained in the tuber, and steam, escaping outward, can push molten metal out of the cavity. This will not threaten you if the walls are dried and covered with a layer of rosin 1-2mm thick. In any case, the first pouring of the mold must be done extremely carefully; the metal must be fed in small portions. Each casting will dry out the walls of the mold more and more, and soon the mold will reach operating mode.

Rice. 5. Potato tuber with fastening eye

In strong currents, you can make a load with lugs (Fig. 6.). To do this, you need to insert an elastic wire into the finished mold at different angles. But in this case, the form can only be used once, since the tuber will have to be cut to remove the load. After the tuber is cut and the load is removed, cut off the excessively long wire or bend its ends in different directions. The cargo is ready. It is best used on a sandy bottom. So, with a smaller mass of cargo in a strong current, it will reliably fix the equipment.

Rice. 6. Sinker with lugs

This casting method is quite interesting, but I believe that using a potato tuber for purposes other than food is quite unethical, so I use this method very rarely.

Characteristics and features of lead

The metal is dirty silver or silvery-bluish in color and has a high specific gravity - 11.34 g/cm 3 . Tensile strength no more than 18 MPa. for compression within 50 MPa. Due to its high ductility, it lends itself to many types of mechanical processing; it is cold rolled to the state of foil, stamped, cut, and cold-fretted. When drawn, lead breaks; wire is made from it by pressing the blanks in dies.

When cooled to -266°C, lead becomes a superconductor, despite its low electrical conductivity at room temperature (resistivity 0.22 Ohm * mm 2 /m). In air, lead quickly fades when cut, passes, and becomes covered with an oxide film characterized by low chemical activity. The metal itself is also resistant to corrosion damage, so acid-resistant vessels and containers are made from lead and alloys. Pb is the last element on the periodic table with stable isotopes. The metal is capable of retaining radioactive radiation.

The cubic, face-centered structural lattice ensures the toughness of the metal; it is difficult to break, but it cuts well and is easy to scratch and crush. When heated, the structure becomes fluid and the initial viscosity decreases.

What does that require?

An oxide film on a lead product appears quite rapidly after smelting. Is it ideal to clean it mechanically in vain? this is a rather labor-intensive process. In addition, the cleaned surface will also rapidly begin to oxidize. You can protect sinkers, figurines, beads or electrical connectors with the help of the following substances: - sunflower oil; - graphite lubricant; - varnish. Also prepare a pack of paper napkins, and for working with acid - chemical glassware, gloves and a respirator.

Melting point of lead

Melting involves a phase transition under thermal influence. Low-melting lead alloys are poured at +400–450°C, the technological temperature is achieved at home on an open flame burner, electric or gas stove burner. The reference literature indicates the melting temperature of lead as +327.4°C. For alloys, the indicators are different; they depend on the physical characteristics of the components that make up the alloys. Solders with tin and cadmium have a melting point that is 40–60 degrees lower, depending on the concentration of the additive.

At +700°C, the lead melt evaporates, forming a toxic aerosol. Metal boils at +1750°C. The oxide layer undergoes phase changes from solid to liquid only when heated to +850°C.

Lead Characteristics

Our planet contains 0.0016% of this metal from the total mass of the earth's crust.
Although this figure is small, however, when compared with other chemical elements - bismuth, gold, mercury, lead is in a much higher position. The predominant source of raw materials is sulfide polymetallic ores . Metal has the following qualities:

softness;
low melting point;
You can process this metal yourself.

This material is characterized by a dirty grayish tint . In the cut area, the metal has a bluish tint, which gradually becomes dull. This is due to the oxidation process, which occurs due to the influence of oxygen. An oxide layer is formed on the cut.

It is a heavy metal, its density is 11.34 g/cm³ . This figure is approximately one and a half times higher than that of ordinary iron. Among other things, lead is also one of the softest metals.

Its surface can be easily scratched even with an ordinary knife or fingernail. Lead is extremely flexible; this metal can be flattened with an ordinary mallet or hammer. It is also often used for casting or melting with your own hands.

Melting temperature

The temperature at which lead begins to boil is 1751 degrees.
This metal begins to melt at a temperature of 327.46 degrees Celsius . Its casting qualities are fully preserved within the range from four hundred to four hundred and fifty degrees.

And the oxide film, which protects the material from corrosion, begins to melt only at a temperature of 850 degrees Celsius, which makes it difficult to weld this type of metal with others. In addition, the volatility level of lead increases significantly at a temperature of 700 degrees.

The material is perfectly processed even when chilled. You can make a thin layer of foil from it. If this metal is subjected to a pressure of 2 tons per square centimeter, then it takes on the appearance of a monolith.

Wire is made from it by pressing in a die. The low degree of tensile strength does not allow the use of ordinary drawing for this purpose.

Application area

Despite its toxicity, lead is valued for its corrosion resistance and ability to block γ-radiation. It remains indispensable in many industries.

Up to 75% of the resulting lead is used in electrical engineering for battery plates and transformer superconductor systems, power cables. Babbitt - steel alloyed with Pb, has anti-friction properties. Alloys containing tin and cadmium are used for solders.

Plumbum is part of anti-corrosion coatings and dyes. Bullets and shot, printed font, figurines, and sinkers are cast from it. Metal sheets are used to shield X-ray installations, nuclear reactors, and bunkers at landfills. The plates are sewn into aprons, vests, and other protective clothing. Lead plates reduce vibration and seismic shocks. They are used in construction to compact masonry, foundations, and bridge supports. Nitrate is used to produce explosives with high detonation.

Application of metal

Lead has been known to mankind for several millennia. Even in ancient Rome, it was used to make pipes for transporting water.

There are approximately 180 minerals in nature that contain chemical element No. 82. Lead deposits are often combined with ores of copper, bismuth, zinc, and silver.

Today, the use of metal in industrial production makes it possible to produce:

battery plates;

power cable sheaths;

alloys and solders;

alloys for the manufacture of bearings;

bullets and shot for hunting.

It is also used as a means of protection against radioactive radiation.

Until recently, the metal was used to increase the octane number of fuel and detect H2S, but gradually this method began to be abandoned.

Lead is a toxic chemical element. Poisoning by metal and its compounds is possible during the development of ore deposits, smelting and use in production.

Household poisoning occurs due to long-term storage of food in packages or dishes coated with glaze containing lead.

How to melt lead

In factories, the following are used as melting tanks:

special crucibles made of refractory ceramics or refractory metals; they are placed in electric furnaces that provide the necessary thermal conditions;
heating baths, they are equipped with built-in shades, maintain the required temperature of the metal around the entire perimeter.

You can melt lead yourself at home, in the yard, garage or workshop in a tin can, it will replace the crucible. On one side of the tin a groove is made for pouring metal into the mold. The edges of the form are folded so that they are securely fixed in the clamp. Instead of tacks, it is more reliable to hold the hot container with pliers; the melting pot will not burn your hands while filling the mold.

You can use old household utensils to melt lead scrap: pots, pans, stainless or enamel kettles, or other heat-resistant cookware. The slag layer is removed with a special spoon with a long handle. This is done immediately before pouring the metal into prepared molds.

How to melt lead at home

Hi all. I hope everyone stays on track after the New Year holidays. Today we will conduct a small experiment in physics, which most of the visitors probably did without me in their childhood. Today we will try to melt lead.

As a child, in an era without computers, DVDs, VCRs and other entertainment equipment, we were always looking for adventures on our ass. One of these adventures was melting lead from car batteries, which in those days were lying around in almost every yard.

In those days we melted lead on fires. Now we will do this in absolutely home conditions - on an electric oven. The fact is that lead is a fusible metal, the melting point is only 327.4 degrees Celsius. And I think we can easily get this temperature on a regular electric furnace.

Melting process

The following is used as a heat source for melting scrap:

a fire, with a smelter stand placed above it;
blowtorch, it is fixed in a stationary position;
a gas burner, with which the metal is heated both from below and from above, alternately;
kitchen stove (gas or electric).

The container is installed so that the flames do not extend beyond the bottom area.

Lead smelting begins with a preparatory stage: you need to prepare a smelting container and grind the scrap. It is cleaned of impurities, possible moisture, and contaminants. Then cut into small pieces with a knife or metal scissors. It is difficult to break lead pieces; they bend well. The smaller the scrap, the faster it will melt. It is recommended to gradually add it to the melting tank. When the pieces are loaded into the melt, the risk of the melt overheating to the volatility point is reduced. You should not heat the pieces to a reddish tint, this is a signal that they are forming toxic volatile compounds.

If a container with thick walls is used for the melt, it is preheated. Dry the tin enough. The melting pot is filled no more than half, preferably 1/3. A thick layer will not heat up evenly.

The melting pot must stand firmly on the burner and not wobble. After the scrap melts, a slag cap forms on the surface. It is removed before pouring the melt into the mold. It is preheated so that there is no sharp temperature contrast. The melt is poured unevenly into a cold mold. Potholes, folds, and other defects form on the casting surface.

Safety precautions

When melting lead in an isolated room, it is important to take care:

about ventilation, it is necessary to force air in with a fan so that the concentration of hot aerosol is minimal, lead compounds have a detrimental effect on the brain, liver, and kidneys;
about respiratory protection (a respirator is needed), vision (you should wear work glasses), long-sleeved clothing made from natural materials, synthetics melt if accidentally ingested, increasing the burn area;
fire safety, you must keep a fire extinguisher at hand.

Liquid lead has high fluidity. If it comes into contact with a wet surface, it splashes heavily. Melt splashes are possible during heating of lead scrap. In the work area, flammable items must be removed or isolated.

Security measures

It is impossible to get lead to boil at home, since the temperature must be extremely high.
One way or another, the volatility of this metal increases noticeably already at 700 degrees. When temperatures rise, people nearby may suffer from the adverse effects of material fumes .

If there is no need, there is no need to bring the lead to “redness”. Molten lead can cause harm in the following ways:

If it gets on the surface of the skin, it can cause severe burns, since the melting point of lead is quite high.
Drops of metal quickly burn through clothing.
If hot metal comes into contact with flammable objects and materials, it can easily cause a fire.

You should also avoid getting liquid into hot metal. Otherwise, a fountain of hot splashes may appear, which can cause a lot of problems.

Lead should be melted in the fresh air or in a room with good ventilation. It is not advisable to avoid using protective equipment . A respirator or ordinary gauze can protect the lungs from metal dust.

How to extract (extract) lead from a battery? How to cast a lead sinker?

You need to extract lead from an old battery, how to do it correctly and how to cast a lead sinker.

You need to start by draining the electrolyte from the battery. (Electrolyte can be used to destroy a stump in a garden plot; just water it and that’s it, it will quickly rot.)

Fill with water several times to rinse, as there may be splashes when opened, and the acid will eat your clothes. Just be safe, preferably wearing rubber gloves and goggles.

After removing the plates, put them in the sun to dry; you can also knock out the slag (the filler in the plates) from the wet ones, but it’s easier from the dry ones.

You can melt it either on a gas stove or on a blowtorch or fire in an ordinary tin can (not aluminum). By bending the edge like a groove.

We cast the sinker depending on the required weight. Small in a teaspoon, dessert, tablespoon. A large one can be poured into any canned jar or any other. After cooling, simply tear it apart.

As children, we smelted lead from batteries like this: we drained the electrolyte, broke the case (of course there was no talk about any safety precautions) and threw blocks of plates into the fire (there were many and large batteries, the Mazov motor depot was nearby, and lead at that time was a non-ferrous metal did not pass). Then they collected what was melted, melted it in a tin can and poured it into “molds” - imprints of a spoon in the ground, so as not to have to worry about holes in their place, they stuck a match into the “mold”, the match burned out, but the holes remained. The load was called a “spoon”. In adulthood, I used only terminals and jumpers from batteries for casting weights (less fuss and more lead than on the plates), I made the mold from sibit - it is easy to process and holds several castings.