How to extend the service life of equipment
On average, the service life of a high-quality chainsaw bar is at least 3 replaced chains. The leading star needs to be changed depending on its condition. The service life of the guide quickly decreases if the oil pump is malfunctioning, the chain teeth are not sharpened for a long time, and also if the tool is used with an unadjusted chain tension. The main reasons for accelerated wear of the device are also:
- Rapid wear of the groove and tail of the chain
- Weak or excessive chain tension
- Inconsistency between the pitch and the drive sprocket crown
- If you use the tool to cut frozen or hard wood
- When using a low-quality chain lubricant
If soil or sand gets into the groove of the guide, this leads to accelerated wear of the headset, so it is recommended to start the tool so that the chain does not come into contact with the ground.
This is interesting! All standard professional-type chainsaws are equipped with drive sprockets with a pitch of 0.325.
Chainsaw chain markings
The basic classification of chains is based on the pitch, which is the distance between the teeth or rivets in the cutting line. The most popular standard sizes include headsets with pitches of 0.325 and 0.404 inches, but the values are not limited to this
It is fundamentally important to take into account the compatibility of a particular size with a chainsaw bar. The simplest household models of equipment, as a rule, support only one specific installation step, while professional units allow the ability to work with several types of circuit. To understand which chain is best for a particular chainsaw, you should understand the features of each size:
To understand which chain is best for a particular chainsaw, you should understand the features of each size:
- Chain with pitch markings at 0.325. The minimum format, but, as already mentioned, it is also one of the most common. The optimal power for working with such a chain is up to 3 hp. With. In practice, this technique can be used to cut branches, cut thin logs and prepare firewood.
- Chain with 0.375 pitch. Medium format, suitable for 4-6 HP tools. With. The borderline size between household and professional. These chains are suitable for working with medium-sized lumber.
- Chain with a pitch of 0.404. This size is used mainly on professional high-power gasoline saws. A large step makes it possible to work on forestry farms where trees are felled.
Types of chainsaw guides
When studying the features and design of chainsaw tires, it should be noted that they are divided into types. The following types of chainsaw guides are distinguished:
- Narrow flat - used primarily on household tools, and only with low-profile types of chains. They represent a narrowed nose or end part of the guide. The main advantage of the narrow-flat tires under consideration is that they minimize the level of danger from reverse impact. This is especially true for novice sawyers
- Lightweight type - consists of two steel plates, which are interconnected by a polyamide layer. This design affects the weight of the tool itself, so the work performed by the sawyer is done quickly and easily
- With the ability to replace the head - used only on semi-professional and professional high-power tools. They are designed to perform large-scale work and are characterized by increased resistance to high temperatures. The nose part changes along with the sprocket
If you are choosing a tire for a chainsaw, then you must first take into account the type of guide. When choosing, you need to start from what type of chainsaw you are purchasing the part for.
Classification of saw bars
A saw set refers to the working elements of a chainsaw, which are intended for direct cutting: a chain and a bar.
One of the points that influence the choice of a particular model is the type of tire and its length. Saw bars for chainsaws are classified as follows:
narrow flat - works in tandem with a low-profile chain of a non-professional household chainsaw, minimizes the risk of injury due to the virtual absence of the “kickback” effect, which is especially important for chainsaw beginners;
lightweight - made of two steel plates connected by a polyamide layer. This design significantly reduces the overall weight of the chainsaw itself, which can serve as a serious advantage when performing certain types of work;
tire with replaceable head - installed on professional chainsaws of medium and high power, used for a large volume of long-term work.. The type of tire is a serious characteristic, but not the only one that must be taken into account when purchasing a chainsaw
Tire type is a serious characteristic, but not the only one that needs to be taken into account when purchasing a chainsaw.
How to distinguish a tire for a household and professional chainsaw
It will not be difficult to distinguish a household chainsaw from a professional one, since in addition to dimensions and weight, these tools differ in the shape of the guide. Household gasoline saws are equipped with tires with a narrowed nose. This design is designed specifically for beginners, since such a tool minimizes the negative effect of kickback.
On professional and semi-professional chainsaws, the toe has a wide part. If you touch the wood with the toe of the guide at high speeds, a kickback will occur. This phenomenon is very dangerous, as the sawyer can drop the tool from his hands, resulting in serious injury. Professionals and sawyers with extensive experience can use such tools.
Brief summary
A balanced chainsaw, chain and carefully selected tire will allow you to work efficiently and calmly, without wasting excessive physical and material resources. And you should always understand that the choice of components of the chain sawing process, including the choice of tire, depends on the type of wood being processed, working conditions, professional skills of the master - all this is purely individual and comes with experience.
Source proinstrumentinfo.ru
All types of chainsaws, regardless of their classes, have a similar design. One of their most important elements is the cutting elements, which are presented in the form of a chain and a bar. The bar, like the chain, wears out over time when the tool is used and therefore must be replaced, but when should this be done? If it's time to replace a tire, there are some important factors to consider when choosing one.
How to install a bar and chain on a chainsaw and adjust the tension
Removing and replacing a tire on a chainsaw is not difficult even for a novice sawyer. Replacement instructions are as follows:
- Using the special wrench that comes with the tool, unscrew the two fastening nuts
- After this, the protective casing, which also serves as a hand brake, is dismantled.
- Removing the chain from the tool
- The part is removed
A new tire is installed in place of the removed guide, after which assembly is performed in the reverse order of removal. At the final stage, it is necessary to adjust the chain tension. To check the degree of tension, pull the chain in the middle of the guide. Correct adjustment is when the output of the shank does not exceed 2/3 of its height. You can make sure that the chain is not overtightened by moving it along the bar, applying a little force.
Upon completion of the work done, all that remains is to start the engine of the tool and check its operation. The chain should not make a ringing sound, which indicates its correct functioning.
If the saw cuts crookedly - reasons and what to do
Often sawers are faced with the fact that at one point the saw begins to cut crookedly. This not only causes inconvenience, but also complicates the sawing procedure. The sawyer has to make efforts not only to hold the tool, but also to level it. Few people know that using a tool with such deformation is prohibited. Let's find out what causes uneven cuts with a chainsaw, and why this is dangerous for the sawyer.
If the saw begins to cut crookedly, this indicates the presence of subtle deformation of the tire. The deformation is associated with the tire bead, which has uneven wear. As a result, the chain is not positioned evenly, but with a slight misalignment. The amount of distortion may not be visible to the eye.
This is interesting!
The cause of an uneven cut with a chainsaw may be uneven wear on the chain links or improper sharpening.
Before replacing a tire, make sure that the chain is in good condition. The problem of uneven tire wear can be eliminated by replacing it. It is almost impossible to uniformly grind the sides of the guide, so it is recommended to replace it along with the chain. The danger of using a deformed chainsaw guide is that the chain shank may jump out of the groove, which will entail not the most favorable consequences.
https://youtube.com/watch?v=k4RbvXpFNK8%3F
The chainsaw bar, like the chain, experiences heavy loads, so it wears out
When wear occurs, it is important to replace the part in a timely manner without waiting for adverse consequences. How to choose and what to consider when buying a tire for a chainsaw is described in detail in the material
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Design features of household and professional tires
The design of modern saw sets is constantly being improved. As a result of partial modernization, the so-called narrow tire was developed.
Structurally, such models are distinguished by the shape of the tip, which prevents kickback when the headset enters the cut. Domestic-grade chainsaw equipment is mostly equipped with narrow tires. A wide toe is a characteristic feature of the tire intended for sawing work of increased complexity, as well as professional category chainsaws.
Buying a tire is not an easy task.
When purchasing a tire that is different from the original model, there is a high probability that the old chain and the new tire will not fit together in any way. The ideal option: try on all three key components - the tire/chain pair and, in fact, the gas-powered tool itself. A slight difference, sometimes not even noticeable to the eye, of just one link can be critical for the entire assembly: the chain either won’t fit at all or will sag.
The next point: different chainsaws are designed for different widths of tire grooves, and accordingly, the drive links are designed for use with different tires. The wide grooves of the chainsaw are designed for a chain that can withstand significant loads, characterized by high quality workmanship and operating efficiency. When choosing a chain, it is important to check the possible width for a given chainsaw model.
Tire design features
The chainsaw saw set includes a bar, which is a high-quality steel part with an elongated oval shape. One end of the guide has a corresponding cutout for threaded fastening. The second end or end portion has a built-in sprocket called the driven one. The appropriate guide design ensures smooth running of the chain, thereby reducing the load on the tool motor.
There is a groove or groove along the circumference of the bar in which the chain shanks move. As the chain moves, friction occurs, causing the surface of the bar to heat up. To reduce the effect of friction and reduce the heating temperature, a dosed amount of special oil is supplied to the working area. If the oil pump breaks down or the oil in the tank runs out, the heating temperature of the guide increases, thereby increasing the wear rate of these parts.
Varieties
Hobby class saws are usually equipped with guides of 30-40 cm. Semi-professional saws have tires with a length of 38-45 cm. But on professional powerful models, chain guides from 50 cm to 90 cm are installed. If you have a long chain, the load on the engine increases, and at the same time At the same time, the force of movement on each tooth of the chain decreases.
Tires for chainsaws from Husqvarna and other brands correspond to the installed chains and differ in the following pitch:
- 0.375" pitch guide for low chain profile;
- 0.325" pitch guide;
- 0.375" pitch guide;
- Guide with 0.404 inch pitch.
The thickness of the groove along which the saw chain moves also varies. The following chain guides are available:
- Saw guide with 0.043" slot thickness;
- Saw guide with 0.050" slot thickness;
- Saw guide with 0.058" slot thickness;
- Saw guide with 0.063 inch groove thickness.
Another difference between guides is the number of links in the chain intended for them. They are marked “DL” (from the English drive link - leading link). For fun, you can independently determine the number of links by counting them. The photo shows different types of guides.
Rules for selecting a chain by pitch
An important parameter by which you need to choose a chain for a chainsaw is the pitch distance between the centers of the nearest links. The exact chain pitch size corresponds to the distance between the center of the first and third rivets. The greater the width and length of the link, the wider the step and, accordingly, the greater the distance between the teeth. The larger the chain pitch, the greater the productivity, but at the same time energy costs increase and more power is required.
The marking is indicated on the product in units of measurement - inches and has only five meanings:
- 0.25 or one quarter;
- 0,325;
- 0.375 or three eighths;
- 0,404;
- 0.75 or three quarters.
The extreme step sizes of this line are practically not used. For professional chainsaws with a power of 5.5 horsepower, a pitch value of 0.404 inches is the most suitable option. For household use, the optimal pitch for chainsaws with a power of three horsepower is 0.325 inches (for thin wooden materials), and with a power of four horsepower is 0.375 inches.
Characteristics of chainsaws
The power of a chainsaw determines its performance: the more power, the faster it will cope with a trunk of the same thickness. But this does not mean that powerful saws are definitely better than low-power ones. Power saws are heavier and significantly more expensive. In many cases, a lightweight, low-power saw will do the job better.
For long-term work on felling forests and sawing logs over 40 cm, you will need a saw with a power of 2500 W (from 3.4 l/s) and a tire of 45 cm. This tool belongs to the professional category, weighs from 6 kg and costs accordingly.
If you intend to use a chainsaw in construction or collecting firewood for your home or bathhouse, then the optimal choice would be a medium-power chainsaw: from 1500 to 2500 W (2.04 - 3.4 l/s).
Saws with a power of less than 1500 W are suitable for trimming branches and sawing small parts. But their lightness and compactness make it possible to use such saws in cramped conditions.
The maximum cutting depth depends on the length of the bar. The longer the tire, the thicker the log or timber can be cut. But the longer the bar, the more power is required to overcome the increased chain friction. When buying a saw from a well-known manufacturer, you can be sure that its power corresponds to the length of the bar, but among cheap saws you sometimes come across examples with low power and a very long bar.
If there are doubts about the correspondence of the bus length and power, then you should be guided by the fact that the optimal power for a 40-45 cm bus is 2 kW, 35-40 cm is 1800 W. Saws with lower power are usually equipped with a 30 cm bar.
Chain pitch is half the distance between any three rivets. The pitch of the chain determines the size of its teeth.
The chain pitch must also match the engine power: larger teeth cut faster, but such a chain will require more power. In addition, the larger the chain pitch, the rougher the cut and the stronger the vibration. When wedging, a saw with such a chain will be more difficult to hold in your hands.
The 0.325″ (8.25 mm) pitch provides the cleanest possible cut for a chainsaw. For felling trees and harvesting firewood, this does not matter, but for builders this factor may be important.
A 3/8″ (0.354″ or 9.3mm) pitch provides acceptable performance and is used in most household chainsaws.
The 0.375″ (9.5 mm) pitch is used on powerful chainsaws that require maximum performance. But working with such chains is more difficult and dangerous.
The wider the groove of the bar, the thicker the guide elements of the saw chain, the stronger they are and the less susceptible to wear.
Tires with a groove width of 1.3 mm provide minimal chain weight and are used in low-power household chainsaws.
Tires with a guide width of 1.5 mm provide greater wear resistance and chain strength and are used in semi-professional tools.
With a large cutting depth and prolonged operation, the load on the chain increases many times over. In this case, strong chains with wide guides and corresponding bars with a groove width of 1.8 mm are used.
The maximum speed of the chain rotation determines the performance of the saw, but only if the engine power allows you to maintain a high speed under load
If high performance is required from a saw, first of all you should pay attention to power, and only then to speed, tire parameters, etc.
The chain tension mechanism prevents the chain from sagging due to stretching. There are instrumental and non-instrumental mechanisms. The tooling mechanism requires a separate tool to tension the chain (usually a screwdriver). Additionally, on some models with a tool chain tensioner, the sprocket cover will need to be removed before tensioning, which may also require time and tools. The toolless mechanism is much more convenient; tightening the chain with its help is carried out simply by turning the tension regulator on the saw body.
Equipment. Chainsaws require periodic maintenance using special tools.
If the kit does not include the appropriate set of tools, keys and screwdrivers, then they will have to be purchased separately - especially if the saw uses an instrumental chain tensioning mechanism.
It would also be useful to have a spark plug wrench in the kit - at first, you will have to remove the “flooded” spark plug several times to dry.
Having a measuring container for fuel will help you maintain the required proportions when preparing the fuel mixture - two-stroke chainsaw engines require gasoline mixed with a special oil as fuel.
About the width of the groove on chainsaw tires
Before you find out the sizes of chainsaw tires, you need to remember that tools are classified into three types - household or amateur, semi-professional and professional. Depending on the type of tool accessory, chainsaws use guides with corresponding groove width dimensions.
- The groove width of the guide of a household chainsaw is 1.1-1.3 mm
- Semi-professional tools are equipped with devices whose groove width is 1.3-1.5 mm
- Professional units work with tires with a groove width of 1.5-1.6 mm
The reason for overheating of the headset may be a mismatch between the size of the chain shank and the width of the tire grooves. If the chain overheats, this will cause it to stretch, and as a result, it may burst during use of the tool.
What kind of shank does my tire have?
Print the PDF catalog of shanks on a scale of 1:1; for printing you will need 7 A4 sheets. If the file does not open, you will need Adobe Acrobat Reader to view PDF files.
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Make sure scaling is turned off before printing.
To determine your tire tail part number, attach your tire tail to the printout.
The dangers of buying cheap Chinese tires
The materials stated that the tire is one of the most important parts of the tool. If this part fails, then using the tool is extremely dangerous. At any moment, the chain can jump off the guide and cause serious consequences. It’s a different matter when a new tire has just been purchased and installed on the tool. Its disadvantage is that it was not purchased in a company store, but on the market under an unknown brand and at a very low price. Finding a cheap tire for a chainsaw today is not difficult, but is it worth buying such a headset? Of course not, and here's what it can lead to.
- First of all, non-original products wear out very quickly, which leads to the need for frequent replacement
- At the same time as the guide, the chain wears out and must also be replaced.
- During the operation of a fake guide, a phenomenon such as wear of one side part is often observed, which ultimately leads to the inability to make an even or straight cut.
- Violation of the integrity of a part is the most difficult and dangerous case, since breaking the tire will cause a break in the chain rotating at a speed of over 10,000 rpm
That is why manufacturers recommend not saving on the purchase of a saw set for a chainsaw, and buying only branded and high-quality tires and chains from trusted sellers. After all, a person’s life depends on the quality of these parts.
If the saw cuts crookedly - reasons and what to do
Often sawers are faced with the fact that at one point the saw begins to cut crookedly. This not only causes inconvenience, but also complicates the sawing procedure. The sawyer has to make efforts not only to hold the tool, but also to level it. Few people know that using a tool with such deformation is prohibited. Let's find out what causes uneven cuts with a chainsaw, and why this is dangerous for the sawyer.
If the saw begins to cut crookedly, this indicates the presence of subtle deformation of the tire. The deformation is associated with the tire bead, which has uneven wear. As a result, the chain is not positioned evenly, but with a slight misalignment. The amount of distortion may not be visible to the eye.
The problem of uneven tire wear can be eliminated by replacing it. It is almost impossible to uniformly grind the sides of the guide, so it is recommended to replace it along with the chain. The danger of using a deformed chainsaw guide is that the chain shank may jump out of the groove, which will entail not the most favorable consequences.
The chainsaw bar, like the chain, experiences heavy loads, so it wears out
When wear occurs, it is important to replace the part in a timely manner without waiting for adverse consequences. How to choose and what to consider when buying a tire for a chainsaw is described in detail in the material
How to eliminate the possible risks of purchasing counterfeit tires?
The information field contains signs by which it is easy to distinguish an original branded chainsaw from the most reliable fake. As for tires, their advantages and disadvantages manifest themselves directly in operation.
In the domestic market of household appliances, about 15% of the total sales of chainsaw components are third-rate counterfeits of unknown origin, producing at best half of the standard resource.
Operating a chainsaw complete with a fake bar and chain is economically unprofitable and unsafe. A significant number of traumatic situations are created when using counterfeit tires and chains.
You can buy a high-quality and durable branded tire of the desired model, without significant risks, at a branded outlet or representative office of a licensed dealer company. If this is not possible, you should use the services of a reputable online store that has earned the trust of customers.
Causes of uneven cuts
In amateur chainsaw practice, many questions arise related to the cutting going in one direction or another. This malfunction creates significant inconvenience when using a chainsaw in wood construction technologies.
The reason for this phenomenon is the deformation of the tire, which is hardly noticeable to the eye, improper sharpening or uneven wear of the cutting links of the chain. If professional adjustment of the chain does not give a positive result, the problem is eliminated by replacing the entire set.
Source opilah.com
Criteria for choosing a tire based on quality characteristics
Tires standardized in seat sizes are presented in a small assortment. As a rule, each manufacturer uses its own standards, which excludes the possibility of operating a chainsaw with sawing equipment from other brands.
Less popular are cheap, short-lived tires made in China, which are installed on chainsaws in the minimum price range. A significant part of such products is sold under the trademarks of well-known brands.
→ BUY CHAIN 0.325 AT THE BEST PRICE
Tire length. Please pay attention!
The guide groove of the chainsaw bar of a household category has a width of 1.1 or 1.3 mm. The same figure for professional models is 1.5-1.6 mm. A discrepancy between the thickness of the chain shank and the width of the groove can initiate overheating of the headset and its premature failure. In another embodiment, the chain may come out of the groove or break.
Similar consequences can occur if the pitch of the chain and the crown of the drive mechanism do not match. In many chainsaw models, replacing the drive sprocket involves time-consuming dismantling of the clutch assembly. In some cases, service and repair level equipment is required.
The most popular sprocket and saw chain pitch for saws up to 3 hp. - 0.325 inches. Professional chainsaw equipment typically uses 3/8-inch pitches.
The driven tire sprocket is not centrally lubricated. This disadvantage is compensated by the high quality of the bearing, which must be lubricated every 8-10 hours of operation. A complete replacement of the driven tire sprocket is possible only in an equipped workshop.
Tires standardized in seat sizes are presented in a small assortment. As a rule, each manufacturer uses its own standards, which excludes the possibility of operating a chainsaw with sawing equipment from other brands.
- The selling price of guide bars is determined by the size, quality of the material and brand recognition. The most expensive, high-quality and durable products from leading manufacturers.
- The high cost of branded tires is fully compensated by their high wear resistance and long service life.
- In the middle price range there is an assortment of budget-level tires that are equipped with gas and electric saws of the household class. With proper operation and qualified maintenance, Standard category tires exceed the service life specified by the manufacturer.
Less popular are cheap, short-lived tires made in China, which are installed on chainsaws in the minimum price range. A significant part of such products is sold under the trademarks of well-known brands.
→ BUY CHAIN 0.325 AT THE BEST PRICE
The length of the new guide bar is determined by the power and torque coefficient of the power unit.
- Models of chainsaws in the small and medium power range are equipped with tires with a length of 30 to 40 cm.
- Longer saw sets create excessive loads on the engine and kinematics of the tool, which negatively affect its traction characteristics and service life.
- Please see the enclosed instruction manual for the recommended length of the guide bar. This means that installing a shorter headset is not excluded, but there are a number of restrictions on the operation of the instrument with an extended length bus.
Professional-level chainsaw equipment is equipped with power units whose power allows you to take advantage of tires up to 75 cm long. Often the tire size in centimeters and inches is marked on its side plane.
What is most noticeable when choosing chainsaws is the size of the tires: it depends on them how large the log can be cut.
The length of the chainsaw bar is one of the most important parameters affecting the convenience, speed and safety of work. This characteristic must be consistent with the operating power of the chainsaw engine, which is why any serious manufacturer indicates the recommended tire length parameter in the technical data sheet of their products.
What are the consequences of ill-considered use of tires that are too long or too short? You should start with the fact that you absolutely cannot exceed the tire size recommended by the chainsaw manufacturer. A smaller size is allowed within reasonable limits, but is also not recommended: there is an opinion that a short chain provides less load on the tool, but it should be remembered that this causes serious damage to the saw set. The permissible deviation range must be indicated by the manufacturer in the technical documentation supplied with the saw.
Long chainsaw bars provide greater convenience when working with large volumes of material, for example, when making deep cuts in a thick log. However, using a long bar paired with a low-power unit will lead to one disappointment: the engine power will not be enough to rotate the crankshaft, which means fast sawing will simply be impossible. The sawing process will be slow, gasoline consumption will be increased, and the engine will wear out instantly.
A shorter bar length with correctly selected tool power will ensure high cutting speed and will be optimal for use when working with small trees or boards.
Currently reading: How to clean the muffler on a chainsaw? — Machine tools and tools, working with wood and metal
10″ = 25 cm;
12″ = 30 cm;
14″ = 35 cm;
16″ = 40 cm;
18″ = 45 cm.
Like other construction tools, chainsaws are divided into professional, semi-professional, and models for home use. Household units have lower power and, as a rule, lower productivity. In order to choose the best chainsaw for your home, you need to remember that the frequency of its use will vary from half an hour to 50 minutes a day.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MTbgMNNkx3k
The power of home saws often does not exceed 2 kW, which is quite enough for trimming branches, logging work or erecting a fence. Due to the short distance from the edge of the teeth to the cutting depth limiter, vibration is reduced. The other side of the coin for reducing vibration levels is low productivity.
The power of semi-professional chainsaws ranges from 3000 to 5000 W. With such a tool, you can safely saw a log house and perform complex forest felling work. The frequency of use of middle-class models is from 5 to 8 hours a day, depending on the brand. According to experts, semi-professional saws are the best option for building a summer house, bathhouse, and felling forests.
The most productive, reliable and unpretentious in operation are professional chainsaws, the power of which reaches 6000 W. Such tools are designed for maximum daily loads. Thanks to increased performance and longer bar length, the best chainsaws in this category can easily process trees up to 40 cm in diameter.
The length of the cutting part of the tire differs from its overall length. The length of the bar is usually considered to be the cutting length (working part) - this is the distance from the front of the saw to the rounded tip of the nose of the bar. This measurement is rounded to the nearest inches or centimeters. An inch is denoted as ” equals 2.54 cm.
For example, the length of the cutting part of the bar for a Stihl MS180 chainsaw is 40 cm. 40 cm ÷ 2.54 = 15.7 inches. With rounding it turns out to be 16″ (inches). For the Shtil MS180 chainsaw, a 16 inch (40 centimeter) Oregon tire is suitable, article number 160SDEA074
10″ = 25 cm;
12″ = 30 cm;
14″ = 35 cm;
16″ = 40 cm;
18″ = 45 cm.
Guide bar for circular saw
Much less common than for chain models are guide bars for circular saws. Their peculiarity is that they are very rarely supplied complete with a sawing tool, as is usually the case with gas and electric chain saws. They have to be purchased additionally, however, and among them there are their own characteristics.
The tire for a circular saw is a profiled metal, usually aluminum, strip on which a circular (circular) saw is mounted and moves along it, like a carriage on rails. To prevent the tire from sliding on the material being processed, it is equipped with rubber or other inserts on the bottom side, as well as brackets, which may not be included in the kit.
They are often modular in design and can be joined together to create a longer canvas.
Shank types that fit Oregon tires
The shank is designed for electric and chainsaws: Alpina, Bosch, Castor, Cub Cadet®, Dolmar, Echo®, Efco®, Einhell®, Homelite®, Husqvarna®, Ikra, Jonsered®, Makita®, McCulloch®, Oleo-Mac® , Partner, Poulan®/Poulan Pro®, Ryobi®, Shindaiwa, Skil®, Tanaka®, Zenoah
Shank designed for electric and chainsaws: Homelite®, Saber
The shank is designed for electric and chainsaws: Einhell®, Husqvarna®, Jonsered®, Skil
The shank is designed for electric and chainsaws: Alpina, Castor, Metabo®, Stihl®, Oleo-Mac®
Shank suitable for electric and chainsaws: Alko, Black & Decker®, McCulloch®, Power Pruner®/Echo® Power Pruner®, Polesaws, Ryobi®, Shindaiwa, Stiga®
The shank is designed for electric and chainsaws: Alko, Black & Decker®, McCulloch®, Ryobi®, Shindaiwa, Stiga®
The shank is designed for electric and chainsaws: AEG, Alpina, Dolmar, Homelite®, Husqvarna®, Jonsered®, Makita®, Oleo-Mac®, Partner, Poulan®/Poulan Pro®, Ryobi®, Shindaiwa, Skil, Tanaka®, Zenoah®
The shank is designed for electric and chainsaws: Alko, Alpina, Castor, Dolmar, Homelite®, Husqvarna®, Jonsered®, Makita®, McCulloch®, Oleo-Mac®, Partner, Shindaiwa, Solo®, Zenoah®
Shank designed for electric and chainsaws: Dolmar
The shank is designed for electric and chainsaws: Alpina, Castor, Dolmar, Husqvarna®, Jonsered®, Makita®, Partner, Shindaiwa, Solo®
Shank suitable for electric and chainsaws: Efco®, Jonsered®, Oleo-Mac®
Shank suitable for electric and chainsaws: Stihl®
The shank is designed for electric and chainsaws: Dolmar, Makita®, Poulan®
The shank is designed for electric and chainsaws: Alko, Echo®, Poulan®/Poulan Pro®, Tanaka®, Zenoah®
Shank suitable for electric and chainsaws: Echo, Homelite®
Shank suitable for electric and chainsaws: Hydrochief, Oleo-Mac®, Stihl®
The shank is designed for electric and chainsaws: Echo®, Hydrochief, Stihl®
The shank is designed for electric and chainsaws: Dolmar, Makita®
Source
Types of links - design or shape of the link
There are two types of modern saw sets in shape - chipper and chisel. Each type is structurally different, affecting performance parameters and sharpening features.
- Chipper links look like a sickle and have poor performance. Their main advantage is the ease of sharpening with a file. It is precisely due to the ease of sharpening that many sawmills prefer to choose models with chipper or crescent-shaped links.
- Chisel links have teeth shaped like a number "7" with a pointed corner. These teeth on the chain show high performance, but at the same time they are difficult to sharpen with a file.
Chisel and chipper link types - please note
Sequence of links
Depth of cut (depth of cut) is a fundamental feature of a chainsaw that determines its performance.
The depth of the cut is determined by the parameters of the cutting tool, i.e. the height of the chain tooth profile. Increasing tooth height results in higher cutting depth per pass, which increases sawing speed. Saw chain structure.
In an ordinary chainsaw chain, such a feature as the height of the tooth is determined by the profile and parameters of the cutting depth limiter, which is installed on any working tooth. Chainsaw chain pitch. What is it and what does it affect? How to find out what pitch your saw set and drive sprocket have. In the newest chain this parameter is set by the manufacturer
The consumer can change the height of the tooth by grinding the stop, but this operation should be treated with caution
To finally resolve the issue, the type of sawing should be taken into account. In general, sawing wood can be done across or along the grain, although the mechanism of such cuts differs from each other. In this regard, for various types of sawing, the introduction of a cutting element of different shapes is targeted. Accordingly, it is customary to distinguish between two types - longitudinal and transverse.
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Types of chains differ in the angle of sharpening of the cutting link. Sharpening the saw chain of a chainsaw Calm it's time to sharpen the chainsaw. › How to sharpen a chain. For the transverse type, the sharpening angle is smaller than for the longitudinal type. Thus, the sharpening angle for a cross cut is 25-35 °, and for a longitudinal cut - 5-15 °. The value of this parameter is applied (marked) to the surface of the cutting teeth. In addition, it should be borne in mind that the size of the angle depends on the type of wood species and its density.
Installing the bar and chain
The tire is dismantled to clean the oil line, check its technical condition, or replace it. The operation sequence is described in the operating instructions. Upon completion of installation, ensure that there is no play and that the threaded fasteners are tight.
If you have certain skills, it only takes a few minutes to dismantle and install a new or sharpened chain. The technology requires the inclusion of an unauthorized start blocker and, in some cases, an emergency stop mechanism.
- Depending on the design of the tensioner, the chain is loosened to the desired extent by rotating the adjusting screw or setting disk until the shanks freely exit the groove of the guide bar.
- After checking the direction of rotation, the shanks of the new chain are inserted into the guide groove and onto the crown of the drive sprocket. Tensioning is done in the reverse order.
- To check the degree of tension, simply pull the chain in the middle of the bar. The extension of the link shank in this place should not exceed 2/3 of its height. A properly tensioned chain should move along the bar with little effort.
After installing and adjusting the saw set, it is advisable to start the engine and keep the saw at medium speed for several minutes. During this time, you can check the operation of the lubrication system.
After turning off the power unit, it is necessary to turn on the start lock and check the headset for local overheating of the tire and changes in the degree of chain tension.
General design
In the standard solution, the longitudinal chainsaw bar is a part made of high-quality steel with an elongated oval configuration.
At one end there are holes for threaded fasteners, at the other end of the long tires a driven sprocket is installed. This arrangement of the tire contributes to the smooth running of the chain and reduces the load on the engine.
There is a groove along the perimeter of the bar into which the saw chain shanks are inserted. Through special drillings for cooling and lubrication of the headset, chain oil is supplied to the working area in measured quantities.
Other parameters
Primary attention should be paid to securing the chainsaw bar. If the shank of the selected tire is completely identical to the shank of your manufacturer's tire, right down to the location of the technological holes for oil supply, such a tire will be ideal for your tool.
Unfortunately, chainsaw manufacturers try to make branded shanks. A Makita tire, for example, will not fit a Stihl chainsaw due to the huge difference in the structure of the shanks.
And finally, the end star. This is the most worn part of any saw guide. If large volumes of work are planned, then it is best to choose an option with replaceable heads, like on the Ural chainsaw bar. This design allows you to change only the head as it wears out, significantly saving on the need for frequent tire replacement.
Recommendations for extending service life
The approximate service life of a branded tire is equal to the total service life of 3 high-quality saw chains; the drive sprocket varies depending on its condition. Experts recommend using a set of several circuits.
This method allows you to reduce the loss of working time, which is spent on periodic sharpening of chains, as well as optimize the wear of the saw mechanism as a whole. Accelerated tire wear is a consequence of unqualified maintenance of the chainsaw and its illiterate operation.
The main factors for early tire failure:
- excessive chain tension or discrepancy between its pitch and the characteristics of the drive sprocket crown, which initiates the rapid development of the groove and shanks;
- applying significant force when sawing hard or frozen wood;
- the tire heats up and wears out intensively due to lack of lubricant supply, due to a malfunction or incorrect adjustment of the standard oil pump;
- saving money on the use of low-quality chain oil or oil surrogates such as waste.
Forced consumption of the saw set resource occurs when soil or sand gets into it, or when a new chain operates on a worn drive sprocket.