Drilling walls in a panel house

Tools for work

For work they use different tools, the main ones: drill, hammer drill, screwdriver. There are nuances to using each.

Drill

The tool is suitable when you need to make several holes.
You can use a regular drill. When plunging a Pobedit drill into the body of the wall, sometimes you need to break the concrete with a punch that matches the diameter of the hole. This is necessary when the drill begins to get stuck in the surface, bumping into areas that are too dense. The process is quite labor-intensive. For greater efficiency, you can use universal drills that have diamond coating. They are installed only on a conventional drill or on a tool where the vibration function is disabled. For large-volume work, an impact drill and drills with pobedit tips are used. They are designed for holes up to 12 mm. The drill is suitable for working with metal and concrete.

Hammer

A hammer drill is a universal tool. It can be used to make a hole in a wall made of wood, tiles and concrete. The tool has several functions - drilling, hammer drilling and impact mode. To make a hole, you need to select the desired drill depending on the surface and carry out the work by selecting the mode.

Screwdriver

A screwdriver is one of the most popular tools for repair and construction work. With its help you can tighten and unscrew screws, drill wood, metal, chipboard, plywood, tiles, plywood, lightweight concrete.

Which nozzles to choose

A specific nozzle is used for each material:

concrete, brick, stone - drill with a carbide plate or pobedit;
tiles, glass - cone-shaped drills with diamond coating;
metal – spiral drill with a cylindrical cone;
wood, drywall - for holes of different diameters, drills are used: feather, ballerina, screw, saw bits for wood;
foam concrete - pobedit drills.

Is it possible to do without a drill and hammer drill?

Make a hole without a drill or hammer drill, but not in a concrete wall. To do this you will need a bolt or a punch.

The working end of the tool is applied to the place where the hole will be. On the opposite side of it, you need to strike hard, rotating the tool after each turn.

Drilling metal

1. Selecting a drill. To make a neat hole in a metal surface, you should purchase a high-quality metal drill. In this case, you should not use cheap drills, since they will not only not drill through the base, but will also cause a lot of trouble. Therefore, try to buy only proven, high-quality drills from well-known manufacturers. The normal price for a good drill is about 300 rubles.

Types of drills and bits for metal.

2. Surface preparation. Before drilling metal, it is necessary to punch the middle of the hole so that the drill does not slip off the surface. This work is performed using a center punch, which is a pointed metal rod. The center punch is hit with a hammer, and its tip knocks out a notch in the surface. Thanks to this, the drill can be fixed in one position, and the hole will be correct and neat.

3. Drilling process. To make a hole in metal whose thickness exceeds 5 mm, it is advisable to use several drills. First, the work is performed with a drill with a small diameter, and then drilled with a large drill to the desired diameter. First, turn on the drill at low speeds, then increase the speed slightly.

To make drilling metal easier, it is advisable to place a board under it. This will make the holes smoother and neater.

When metal is being processed, the drill becomes hot. It is advisable to lubricate it with a special paste or coolant before work. If you don't have it, regular machine oil will do. The exception to this rule is gray cast iron, which is always dry drilled.

To remove the drill from the resulting hole, you need to turn the drill in the opposite direction, if its mechanism has such a function.

Often, for drilling metal, a drill stand is used, to which the tool is attached. In this case, at the beginning of work, it is necessary to press its handle only lightly, and when chips start to flow, the pressure should be increased.

Drill installed in a drill stand.

There is a direct relationship between the thickness of the drill and the number of revolutions of the tool. Remember that the larger the diameter of the drill, the lower the speed. Let's say if you use a drill 4 mm in diameter, the tool speed is about 2400-2800 per minute. If the drill diameter is 6-8 mm, the number of revolutions is much lower - approximately 1200-1300 per minute.

Video: Drilling hardened steel

Safety precautions

Any construction or repair work is associated with certain risks, so it is important to know how to drill concrete without injury. A number of rules must be followed:

First you need to check that there are no pipes or electrical wiring in the drilling area. This can be done using a metal detector. If possible, turn off electricity in areas where repairs are being carried out. The drill is connected to a separate socket connected to the distribution panel. The metal detector may not recognize pipes or wiring under a decorative coating.

Drilling in such places must be done with caution so as not to unnecessarily damage the wall. If the house has hidden gas wiring, then the gas must be turned off during the work. It is strictly forbidden to drill seams in a block house. Communications are often laid in the channel between blocks in violation of building regulations. Be sure to check how the drill is secured in the chuck. During the drilling process, it is necessary to use protective equipment: glasses, gloves, special clothing

If you plan to work at height, wear a hat. Drilling produces a lot of dust. A protective mask or respirator must be used. When drilling through a wall, you must make sure that another person is not working on the opposite side. If the hole needs to be made at ceiling level, then the work is carried out not from a stepladder, but from scaffolding or a trestle. The stepladder is less stable. If there is no suitable support, then the stepladder is strengthened with stops. Do not turn on a tool that rests on the work surface. The pressure and speed increase smoothly.

To ensure stability of the tool, it is held only by the handles. Holding a working drill by the chuck is strictly prohibited.
In some regions there are legally set times during which noisy work cannot be carried out. This must be taken into account when drawing up an action plan.

To gain the skill, you need to drill a hole in concrete several times slowly and carefully. This will help you understand that if you follow the nuances and safety precautions, this work does not cause major problems and difficulties. Even beginners can do it on their own.

Types of drills for concrete - what are they?

How to groove a wall for wiring without a special wall chaser

How to properly paint a plastered wall with water-based paint

Sealing through holes and holes from hardware in a concrete wall

Drilling chipboard and wood

1. Selecting a drill. Holes less than 10-12 mm in diameter are usually made with a metal drill. Special drills for wood need to be purchased only when the hole diameter is large enough, or when high demands are placed on the quality of work.

Wood drills come in several types:

spiral;
single-stranded (twisted);
ring (crowns);
feathers;
Forstner cylindrical drills.

If transverse drilling is performed, use a center drill, and if longitudinal, use a spiral drill.

Above is a spiral drill, below is a twisted wood drill.

Above are feather drills, below are Forstner drills for wood and chipboard.

Various versions of crowns for drilling large holes in wood.

2. Surface preparation. A recess is made in the middle of the hole using an awl to prevent the drill from slipping. To prevent chipping after the tool comes out, a block is placed on the back side of the board.

3. Drilling process. Perform work at low or medium speeds. Chipboard has a particularly fragile structure, so to avoid peeling of the coating, drills with sharp edges are used, and a block is placed under the base.

Work rules: tips

When working with tools, you must follow safety rules and general recommendations:

1) When performing work, protect your respiratory system, dust is harmful.
2) If you work outside, you need to install fences at 2.5 meters.
3) When performing work at a height of more than 1.5 meters, use a strong base - scaffolding or a goat.
4) When working with a tool, the speed must be turned on smoothly, and in no case should it be turned off when it is in the body of the wall.
5) When drilling through plaster, you must carefully study the communication plan so as not to hit anything.
6) It is strictly forbidden to drill through the decorative coating.
7) Choose the right drill bits for each surface.
Wet the drill with water to prevent it from overheating.

Drilling tiles

For more details, see a separate article How to drill ceramic tiles - select a tool and drill according to all the rules: /stroitelnye-raboty/70-kak-sverlit-keramicheskuyu-plitku.html

1. Selecting a drill. There are special drills for working on ceramics and glass. You can replace them with a concrete drill with pobedite surfacing, if you have certain work skills. In this case, the concrete drill should not be very worn.

On the left is a drill for concrete, on the right for tiles.

Drills used for drilling tiles.

2. Surface preparation. Tile is quite slippery and hard, but at the same time fragile. If you use a regular concrete drill for drilling, it is difficult to do work on tiles, because the drill begins to slip and scratch the base. To avoid problems during the work, a piece of adhesive should be glued to the area where the hole will be made. If you use a special drill for tiles, then you don’t need to do this, the only thing is that if it is dull, it needs to be sharpened.

3. Drilling process. Now consider how to drill tiles. It is impossible to drill the tile itself using the impact mode, so as not to break off the glaze. First, drill the tiles. In this case, the pressure force should be small. Work is performed at low speeds. After the tile is drilled, the impact mode is turned on and a hole is made in the wall. If the tile was drilled with a special drill for ceramics, then after passing through the tile it is replaced with a drill with a Pobedit tip.

Video: How to drill tiles

Tools for work

For work they use different tools, the main ones: drill, hammer drill, screwdriver. There are nuances to using each.

Is it possible to do without a drill and hammer drill?

Make a hole without a drill or hammer drill, but not in a concrete wall. To do this you will need a bolt or a punch.

The working end of the tool is applied to the place where the hole will be. On the opposite side of it, you need to strike hard, rotating the tool after each turn.

Which nozzles to choose

A specific nozzle is used for each material:

concrete, brick, stone - drill with a carbide plate or pobedit;
tiles, glass - cone-shaped drills with diamond coating;
metal – spiral drill with a cylindrical cone;
wood, drywall - for holes of different diameters, drills are used: feather, ballerina, screw, saw bits for wood;
foam concrete - pobedit drills.

Screwdriver

How to properly drill a reinforced concrete pipe with a hammer drill

When using an impact drill for reinforced concrete, you need to use the “perforator” mode and pobedit drills. First, the hole is made smaller, then larger. The drill needs to be cooled periodically.

Important! When working with concrete, you need to avoid hitting the reinforcement, otherwise the drill will break. Using a special device you can check where it is located

Drill

For greater efficiency, you can use universal drills that have diamond coating. They are installed only on a conventional drill or on a tool where the vibration function is disabled.

For large-volume work, an impact drill and drills with pobedit tips are used. They are designed for holes up to 12 mm. The drill is suitable for working with metal and concrete.

General recommendations for drilling holes

The tool must be held correctly in your hands. The drill should be positioned straight and enter the surface in a vertical direction. To make drilling easier and more accurate, you can use an additional handle, which usually comes with the drill.

Based on what type of surface you are working with, you need to select the material and size of the drill and determine the operating mode of the tool.

Here is the main principle of how to drill correctly: the material of the cutting tool must be harder than the material of the surface being drilled. Imagine the following situation. Let's say you decide to drill into a concrete wall using a drill bit designed for wood. You can rest assured that nothing good will come of this, and you will have to throw away the drill. Therefore, the type and material of the drill must be carefully selected for each type of surface.

How to drill a concrete wall correctly

First of all, we need to decide on the tool with which we will drill the wall - the choice is between a drill and a hammer drill. If you have only one of these tools at your disposal, then the agony of choice disappears by itself, but for those who plan to rent equipment, let us remind you that a hammer drill is a device designed specifically for this type of work, and therefore in most cases it is better suited. And the available range of output section sizes is much larger than that of a drill.

But a drill also has its advantages, for example, when it comes to foam concrete structures, a hammer drill will simply crumble such a base. Remember that the drill must be an impact drill; an unimpacted one will not produce results and will most likely be damaged. Therefore, if you are wondering whether it is possible to drill through a concrete wall with a drill, then know that the answer depends on the type of drill and the material of the wall itself.

Drill

An impact drill differs from the more common hammerless drill in that the movement of the drill in it is carried out using special ratchets with teeth. It is very simple to use; you just need to switch the tool to impact rotation mode and get down to business.

An even more important component for success are suitable attachments for our task - drills, see their list in one of the paragraphs below

In addition to choosing the right tool and consumables for it, we note a couple more features of drilling concrete walls with a drill. If you decide to work with a hammerless drill, then stop while drilling and help with your hands, driving the pointed drill in with a hammer, then continue using the drill. If the drill is low-powered, then let it rest often to avoid overheating.

In general, nothing is impossible, and with desire and diligence, you will certainly be able to cope with a wall, having in your arsenal tools that are not entirely suitable for this, but remember that if the surface does not give in, it is better to postpone the idea if you do not want to say goodbye to your drill.

Hammer

With this tool everything is simple:

First, we check its serviceability and clean the barrel shaft of debris.
Insert the drill until it clicks
We bring the tool perpendicular to the wall and begin to drill, applying a little pressure. If the process takes a long time, we moisten the drill with plain water from time to time so that it does not overheat.
If the drill gets stuck, then we simply take it out of the hammer drill, insert a tool of smaller diameter and try to use it to free the stuck object by widening the hole.

Expert's comments

Now you know how and with what help to make a hole in the wall, but if you do not have experience in such work, first ask one of your more experienced friends to teach you how to use the equipment, otherwise the walls and the tool may become much less functional than they were before the work began.

Also remember that even though our grandfathers and great-grandfathers were able to carry out repair work of any kind and complexity with the help of one hammer, you and I still live in peacetime, when there is no shortage of tools. Therefore, if you decide to get a hole in the wall, but you only have a low-power drill at hand without a hammer function, you shouldn’t torture the walls and the device, but it’s better to wait a little and ask your friends about the presence of a hammer drill - you’ll probably be lucky. Oh yes, if you live in an apartment building and you are familiar with such a nuisance as having neighbors, then be merciful to them and do not start your drill exercises with the first roosters - they will be grateful to you.

What will help the home handyman?

At home, when you need to make 2-3 holes in concrete, you can get by with a regular drill, without the impact function. To do this, it is necessary, as the Pobedit drill is immersed into the body of the wall, to break the concrete from time to time with a strong metal pin (punch) matching in size to the diameter of the hole. It is used when the drill begins to “stick” in the wall. At this moment, a steel punch is inserted into the hole and they begin to hit it with a hammer or sledgehammer, trying to crush areas that are too dense and punch the hole deeper. In this case, the pin is turned a little. Then the hammerless drill can start working again.

Drill selection

When choosing equipment, you should pay special attention to what drill you use to drill ceramic tiles. If you choose the wrong tool, you will only be able to use it a few times, after which you can throw it away, as it will become completely unusable. To drill tiles without such negative consequences, you need to choose the right drill

To drill into tiles without such negative consequences, you need to choose the right drill.

You can drill a high-quality hole in ceramic tiles using a spear-type drill, which has a long service life. If you are thinking about how to drill a tile for a dowel, choose a tool of this type

It is also important that spear-shaped drills have an affordable price

When drilling tiles with a spear drill, use a household vacuum cleaner to remove dust

Carbide with one-sided sharpening

How to drill tiles to get a quality result? For this purpose, a drill with a carbide plate sharpened on one side is often used. Sharpening the cutting part at an acute angle not only reduces the risk of overheating the drill, but also allows it to more easily drill through tiles, which are highly durable and brittle.

Crown type with diamond coating

Quite often it is necessary to drill the tiles in order to obtain a large diameter hole in it, intended for the installation of pipes and electrical outlets. Such a hole in the tile can have a diameter from 10 to 70 mm. In this case, it is best to use core drills, the working part of which is coated with diamond sputtering. A tool with a centering drill can be used in conjunction with a hand-held electric drill, and without it - only using stationary drilling equipment.

Diamond core bits are often sold in sets with one support plate for several bits

When drilling ceramic tiles with a diamond core bit, keep in mind that this tool is quite sensitive to overheating, so it must be cooled with water during the processing process.

Diamond-coated core drills are used at 200–500 rpm, and they must be properly cooled with water. The resource of such a tool, if you follow all the rules for its use, is enough for 20–50 drilled holes, which is a fairly good indicator.

By the way, diamond crowns also come in small diameters.

Crowned with tungsten carbide coating

How to drill through ceramic tiles without defects? This type of core drill allows you to easily solve this problem. They can also be used to process porcelain stoneware, marble and brick. The most significant disadvantage of such a tool is its high cost, but given its versatility and high efficiency, this price is quite justified.

Set of tungsten bits for tiles and tiles

With adjustable incisors (ballerina)

When deciding how to drill tiles in the bathroom in order to obtain a large-diameter hole, many home craftsmen choose the so-called ballerina drill. This drill can be used to drill holes with a diameter in the range of 30–90 mm.

The ballerina includes a central drill and a bracket along which clamps with cutters move. With the help of the latter, a groove is cut on the surface of the workpiece. A ballerina drill is most often used when it is necessary to drill a hole of non-standard diameter on the surface of a tile in a bathroom or toilet. If you decide to use a ballerina, keep in mind that the hole created with its help has uneven edges, which will later need to be covered with something.

Although “ballerina” does not provide ideal quality holes, it always helps out in the absence of crowns of the required diameter

Diamond drills and other devices

On store shelves you can sometimes find a model of ring drills with a diamond tip. Such products are intended for drilling huge holes with a cross-section of up to 25 cm. It is important to note that such devices are expensive, and therefore they should not be purchased for home use.

If there is a need to make a hole for a socket or switch, you can use crowns designed for drilling concrete. The cutting part around the circumference has universal solderings made of carbide metals.

Such elements have a cross-section from 35 to 120 mm, but products with a cross-section of 68 mm are in great demand, since this is what sockets and switches have. If you are drilling with a crown, it is important not to forget to turn off the hammer drill’s impact function. This device drills holes with a maximum depth of 15 cm. If greater depth is required, it is recommended to use an extension nozzle.

Similar bits are also sold for electric drills. They differ from the previous ones in that instead of soldering they are equipped with a tungsten carbide alloy coating. The advantages of such a device are that if concrete walls are lined with tiles, then there is no point in replacing the nozzle, since it drills both tiles and concrete surfaces well. But we must not forget that such devices can be used for drills with a power above 1000 W.

Most often, drills are used to work with a hammer drill, the cross-section of which ranges from 4 to 80 mm. Many people are faced with the problem of choosing the correct drill diameter. But the smartest thing to do when purchasing a hammer drill is to also purchase a set of concrete drills. But a high-quality kit costs a lot of money, and therefore it is necessary to select the same cross-section as that of the dowel intended for this model.

What do anchor ties provide in construction?

Concrete floors are laid in buildings and structures on load-bearing walls, starting from the basement and on each floor for the floor and ceiling. After laying and anchoring the slabs, they are monolied, that is, they are filled with cement mortar in the form of a screed and the result is a solid box that is not subject to any shifts or distortions. In essence, this is the answer to the question about the need for anchor connections: the slab will not move across the floors even with a strong push

If you have ever seen with your own eyes or just in photographs a house after an artillery shelling, then you probably noticed that the floors, as a rule, are more intact than the walls, and all this is possible thanks to monolithic connections

It is possible not to use anchoring of floor slabs only when a small one-story building is being erected in a seismologically safe area, but this only applies to slabs in the attic. But in most cases, a good owner will still not build a house, leaving the ceiling without such fasteners, especially since it is inexpensive.

This excerpt shows that the manual is of a recommendatory nature. Source

This may seem strange, but today there are many opponents of anchoring, who claim that houses without such insurance will also stand and will not go anywhere. Perhaps they are given confidence by the fact that in the “Manual for the Design of Residential Buildings” such fasteners are presented in the form of a recommendation, and not a law? But it would not be amiss to note here that, according to statistics, it is recommendations that more often save human lives than laws.

Walls

Things are much easier with walls, because... You can rely on logic and generally accepted standards to determine where the wiring goes, so you can avoid hitting it with a hammer drill. So, as a rule, the cable line runs parallel under the ceiling at a distance of 15 cm from it and goes down to the electrical points at right angles, as shown in the photo below:

To avoid getting into electrical wiring when drilling, it is enough to detect distribution boxes in the walls (this can be done with the naked eye), which will show the exact height of the wires. After that, you need to look at where the sockets, switches, and electrical panels are located. From all these points the cable rises upward, so it is better not to drill into the wall above them, otherwise the chance of getting into the wiring will be almost 100%.

However, this method of laying cables is not always found. In panel houses, the wiring is laid in channels (cavities) in the slabs. Due to the design features of the slab and the requirements for its rigidity, they run diagonally. You can see an example of their location in the figure below.

If you are unable to determine the location of the electrical line in an apartment or house using the methods described, it is better to use a special detector. There are inexpensive devices for finding hidden wiring. Their accuracy, of course, is not at the highest level, but with an error of 10-15 cm you can find the wires in the wall, which will allow you to avoid hitting them with a drill.

If you just need to hang a TV on the wall or install a kitchen (meaning hanging cabinets), it is not advisable to buy a detector. In this case, we recommend making a metal detector yourself. A simple homemade device will also show the approximate location of the wiring.

You can also try using an indicator screwdriver to detect hidden wiring, but not the one with a neon lamp, but the one with batteries and an LED. If you take it by the sting and move the back side along the wall, it glows near the line, although this method is not very accurate. We also recommend tapping the wall around the intended drilling location - this will likely “tap out” cavities and cable lines.

Grooves in monolithic walls

As we have already said, it is better not to make horizontal grooves in load-bearing monolithic walls, as this can lead to damage to the working reinforcement and reduce the load-bearing capacity of the wall. From the point of view of the law, it is prohibited to make vertical grooves in such walls. However, in this case, the working reinforcement will not be cut and the load-bearing capacity of the wall will not decrease. Therefore, horizontal sections of wiring can be done behind a suspended or suspended ceiling, and communications can be lowered down along grooves in load-bearing walls

To be careful, it is better not to let anyone into the apartment so that they do not see the vertical grooves

Additional precautions when drilling into walls

A damaged cable can be replaced. Although this procedure is quite labor-intensive and unpleasant, it cannot be compared with the consequences of electric shock. Therefore, before starting work you need to insure yourself. For this it is enough:

wear glasses to protect your eyes;
do not touch grounded objects: water and heating pipes;
Do not work in a damp environment.

It is optimal if there are several separate lines in a house or apartment, individually connected to several machines. Then it is advisable to temporarily disconnect the line near which work is planned to be carried out. A drill or hammer drill can be connected to any other line via an extension cord.

Even if the wiring in the wall or ceiling is damaged during work, this will not lead to damage to the tool or electric shock. It’s better to check your “luck” after drilling. If, after turning on the machine, it does not knock out, everything is in order.

Reconstruction of walls after relocation of sockets

When moving sockets, excess recesses must be sealed with gypsum or cement mortar. The technology for carrying out such work largely depends on the depth of the hole. If it exceeds 5 cm, then you will definitely need a piece of foam plastic or a stone of appropriate dimensions.

Step-by-step instruction:

Clear the space of dust and small debris.
Lightly moisten the walls of the hole.
Drive 3-4 self-tapping screws along the edges to hold the filler.
Fill the bottom of the hole with the selected solution.
Place a suitable sized pebble or foam material inside.
Fill the hole with the prepared composition. If cracks form, the procedure should be repeated again.
After the surface has dried, apply a thin layer of putty.
Apply fine-grained sandpaper.

Compliance with the correct sequence of restoration work guarantees a perfectly level base.

The procedure for sealing a hole from an outlet is very simple to perform; even an untrained person can easily cope with it. Source folksland.net

How to save on a hammer drill and drill a concrete wall with a regular drill?

Many people live in houses with concrete walls, and when it comes to making a hole in them, they face serious difficulties.

Don’t despair or be upset if you didn’t manage to hang a shelf, lamp or cabinet right away, read our recommendations and everything will work out.

There are several options with which you can drill through a concrete wall yourself.

The better to drill

As already mentioned, there are several ways to drill through a concrete wall; let’s look at each of them in more detail.

Hammer

When using a hammer drill or impact drill, they must be switched to impact mode, a working tool with a pobedite tip is inserted and it must be directed perpendicular to the wall surface.

If drilling holes takes a long time, then periodically you need to wet the drill so that it does not overheat too much.

After you have drilled to the required depth, you must pull the working tool back without turning off the hammer drill. To clean the finished hole from dust, you need to deepen and pull out the drill several times.

A regular drill or screwdriver

If you do not have the tools described above, then this work can be done using a conventional electric drill or a powerful screwdriver.

Drilling will take more time than using a hammer drill, but you can do it yourself.

After this, they insert the working tool into it and begin to drill. If the drill stops, break the hard areas again with a punch and continue working.

Diamond drilling

This is the most effective way to quickly and easily make a hole of the required diameter in a concrete wall.

To perform the above work, you will need special equipment consisting of the following elements:

electric motor;
a stand that is securely fixed to the base;
core drill.

There is no need to cool the drill during operation, as water is supplied to it, which not only cools the tool, but also prevents dust from forming.

If specialists work, then together with the specified equipment they use a vacuum cleaner, with which they remove dust and water.

Since the price of such equipment is very high, it is not advisable to buy it for domestic use. If it is necessary to make a hole of a large diameter, you can always invite specialists for this.

Expert advice

In order for you to correctly drill a concrete wall, you must have the necessary equipment, perform all work carefully and adhere to the following recommendations:

without a hammer drill, the work can be done with an impact drill or drilled with a screwdriver;
do not buy cheap drills, as their pobedite tip falls off very quickly and they fail;
instead of a punch, you can use a pobedit tool, with one you will break the crushed stone, and with the second, inserted into a regular electric drill, you will drill;
to work with concrete, the hammer drill must have an SDS-plus chuck;
take into account the placement of the reinforcement to determine where it is located, you can use a metal detector; if the reinforcement is exposed, it must be painted to prevent rusting;
To work with concrete, you can use universal diamond-coated drills, but you need to insert them only into a regular drill, or you need to turn off the impact mode.

Conclusion

When performing the above work, you must adhere to the developed technologies and safety rules, then you can not only make the hole yourself without the involvement of expensive specialists, but also avoid injuries.

How to drill concrete and brick with a screwdriver, video:

To drill holes for polypropylene pipes twenty (diameter = 21 mm) I need:

1. a drill for a hammer drill with a diameter of at least 22 mm (or better yet 25, remember that polypropylene expands for hot water supply?), and a length of at least 300 mm, this is the thickness of the plaster and concrete block. It was not possible to drill the sleeper with a drill. you'll go nuts..; 2. a wood drill, of the same diameter, at least 650 mm long, here I take into account the thickness of the conventionally drilled plaster and block, plus the “air cushion” and plus the sleeper itself; 3. a drill for a rotary hammer with a diameter of 12, a length of more than 730, here is the full thickness of the wall (do we remember that you can only drill on one side? Yes, and the horseradish holes towards each other will coincide with two, and if you measure thoroughly, then the slope is any will be different).

Drilling a wall at once with a large-diameter drill is very labor-intensive and time-consuming; it is much easier and faster to drill a thin one, and then expand the hole with a larger one along the guide. I use this method up to several passes with different drills in increasing increments, depending on the ultimately required diameter. The “old-fashioned” method is very effective, you save a lot of physical effort, and what is important in my case is time - the work at first glance is “the cat cried”, all it takes is to remove two tubes, BUT the wall...

So, I went to the store, not familiar with the prices for the tool I need? The price tag for hammer drills, along with the length and increase in diameter, grows not just proportionally, but catastrophically, however, the same applies to screw drills. Here are some screenshots with price tags:

Normal, right? And this is here in the provinces! I wonder what the cost is in regional and capital cities?

An alternative to a long screw drill is a feather drill, the condition of suitability is that you buy an extension cord, one is missing, you take two, luckily connecting them together is as easy as shelling pears. That's exactly what I did, I already had one extension cord.

As a result, I received the required tool at a reasonable price, but you can’t explain to the customer that the tool is expensive; to put it mildly, he’s not interested. Visibility is only two half-inch tubes installed, but how you did it is your problem. The point is that an identical order, as I wrote above, will probably go through in the next five-year period, and the instrument will lie idle.

Step by step how I drilled:

1. from the side of the attached room, using a hammer drill with a 12 mm drill, I drilled through the plaster and block; 2. widened the hole with a 25 mm drill; 3. drilled the sleeper with a 25 mm feather drill; 4. then, again installing a long thin drill, I drilled through the plaster at the exit; 5. with a 25 mm drill, on the other hand, I expanded the diameter towards.

It took about 30 minutes to do everything. Next, soldering the pipes is a different story. This is how I handled my next order in an accessible way; if any of you benefit from my experience, then it’s not in vain that I clicked on the keys.

Conclusion:

And one more thing: with feather drills, the option of gradually increasing the diameter does not work, you drill immediately with a wide feather, the price for them is a pittance in comparison with drills, and I have never seen wooden walls of great thickness.

Two useful additions, naturally based on personal experience:

First:

When installing pipes, in addition to water supply, I also install sewerage if necessary. It’s no secret that the diameter of the pipes here is larger, from 40 to 150 millimeters; I don’t have a drilling rig with diamond bits, so I fulfill orders using the same hammer drill. I proceed as follows: I mark a circle of the required diameter on the wall, drill holes along its perimeter with a thin long drill, then, using the same principle that I highlighted above, I expand the diameter of each hole to the maximum available in the arsenal. Then, replacing the drill with a spatula and switching the hammer drill mode to chiselling, I get rid of everything unnecessary. So... I agree the work is not pleasant, but this is just one of the disadvantages during installation. It should be borne in mind that this process is relevant for a small wall thickness, say a maximum of 300 millimeters, but for a much larger thickness you present the customer with a fact: ordering a drilling rig is a device, as noted above, using bits with diamond tips. The operation is not cheap, but with all the “breadth” of choice... the customer pays, then we come in with the installation.

Second:

Let’s say you fulfill the first point yourself: you drill a concrete wall, trying to get a hole with a diameter of 140 millimeters, and you have a “surprise” in the form of reinforcement (usually in the walls of panel houses).. You can’t take it with a drill, electric arc welding will help, for lack of, grinder, which is problematic to use, access is difficult, you have to puff, creating access... in short, I don’t advise you to bother. Exit: cut by welding or gas cutting. There's no such thing? Find it! As in that saying: “It’s better to lose a day, but then fly in five minutes!”

Questions, additions: in the comments column, but that’s all for me today, best regards, Andrey.

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How and with what to seal holes in a concrete wall?

The construction or major renovation of a house is usually entrusted to professional builders. Minor defects (for example, holes in the wall) are most often repaired on their own. To do this quickly and efficiently, it is worth familiarizing yourself with different approaches to solving this problem.

Materials for filling holes

To repair a damaged wall, prepare a suitable building mixture, with which you can easily repair the damage yourself, ensuring optimal strength and durability. The composition is selected taking into account the area and type of hole or crack, as well as the area where the defect is located. Before giving preference to any option, it is worth familiarizing yourself with their pros and cons.

With its help, various bases are leveled, including a concrete wall. There are several types of putty mixtures, each of which has its own characteristics.

Cement putty. As the name suggests, its basic component is cement. This mixture can be used to seal holes in concrete both on the inside and outside of the building. The material is characterized by high strength and resistance to moisture. The disadvantage is that it takes a long time to dry. Cement is not plastic, so a patched wall is often covered with a network of cracks. For this reason, there is a need to apply a second layer of finishing.
Gypsum putty. It is not prone to cracking and can be applied in a thick layer at once to repair the defect. Its disadvantage is instability to moisture, fear of temperature changes. The scope of application of the material is dry heated rooms.
Acrylic putty. She is not afraid of dampness, the wall after repair turns out perfect. At the same time, the polymer mixture refers to finishing. It is applied in a thin layer and does not allow covering up a heavily damaged base. Another disadvantage of this variety is the fairly high price.

If the cracks in the concrete are small, it is enough to mask them with a thin layer of finishing mixture. For deeper cracks, choose a cement or gypsum composition. But none of the putties is used to seal through holes: the connection will be leaky.

This is a universal material, indispensable when installing window and door blocks, as well as when eliminating gaps and cracks in concrete walls. When purchasing, please note that polyurethane foam comes in two types:

one-component – it can be used without prior preparation;
two-component - the components are combined using a special mixer or a construction gun.

The foam expands in volume as it exits the container, filling gaps of any size. At the same time, the mass adheres well to concrete and hardens quickly, providing a high density of the embedded area. The only negative is possible shrinkage of the material. Polyurethane foam allows you to seal deep, small holes due to the fact that it is supplied from a pressure cylinder.

This is the best material to cover up large holes and reliably repair a house wall or balcony from the outside or inside. The repair mixture has the following advantages:

high degree of adhesion;
frost resistance;
mechanical strength and durability;
stability of characteristics regardless of temperature;
antiseptic properties.