How to set the teeth of a wood hacksaw correctly

Sharpening a hacksaw

Like any other tool, a hacksaw will work well if it is sharp.
With frequent use, the question of sharpening a hacksaw for wood very soon arises. A hand saw for wood becomes less sharp over time; the teeth wear down, becoming rounder on the sides and in front of the edge. Therefore, it becomes more difficult to operate the saw. To restore the previous sharpness of the teeth, it is worth sharpening them. Please note that before and after sharpening, the teeth must have their original height and angle pitch.

It is also worth considering the fact that not every hacksaw can be sharpened. For example, a tool that has small teeth should not be sharpened. In addition, hardened steel teeth cannot be sharpened. A large wood hacksaw lends itself best to sharpening.

Before you start sharpening, you should separate the teeth. To ensure free movement along the workpiece, as well as to avoid pinching the tool, the teeth must be moved apart smoothly as they deepen.

The alignment of the teeth must be bent in different directions to a specific distance. After this, the width of the cut will increase and will have a larger width compared to the thickness of the teeth. There are gaps on the sides. Upon completion of the layout, the hacksaw will easily move back and forth, and the blade will not touch the surface of the cut, as a result of which the master will freely remove the wood with each layer.

When setting, it is worth considering the fact that as the width of the teeth increases, the cut will widen. Therefore, you will avoid the hacksaw getting jammed. However, this does not mean at all that if the teeth are set excessively (increasing the width), a wide cut will be obtained; on the contrary, the teeth will tear the wood and the work will become harder. The optimal width of the teeth is one and a half to two times greater than the thickness of the hacksaw blade. For this reason, to cut raw wood, the teeth should be set aside by 0.5 - 1 mm, and dry wood - less than 0.5 mm.

A special tool called a setting tool will help you bend the teeth. This is a small metal or wooden plate with a small slot, the width of which is greater than the thickness of the hacksaw. Often the wiring is equipped with an adjusting screw, with which you can achieve an even bending pitch of the teeth.

Wiring procedure:

clamp the saw in a vise so that only one teeth peeks out
fix the vice on a convenient flat surface, for example, on a table
bend the teeth using an adjustable device in the opposite direction
do not bend the teeth completely, otherwise they will break
at the end of the setting, you need to check that the teeth are at the same distance and do not look out.

Sharpening a tool can be called a real art, for this reason it is worth following certain rules:

securely fix the hacksaw. The blade must be secured in a vice or other wooden device that is installed in a well-lit place and on a stable surface. High-quality sharpening will not work on your knees, chair or brick.
use high quality tools. Don't save money by buying cheap tools. You should definitely buy a quality file
For long service life of a hacksaw, it must be cleaned with a wire brush and rubbed with charcoal. This is necessary so that the hacksaw does not clog or become dull.
The handle of the hacksaw should be held in the right hand, and the end should be supported with the left, pointing the file at the teeth. It is necessary to press the teeth smoothly, pointing the file in one direction. When returning the file, try not to touch the teeth.
you need to try to remove the metal from the edge of the teeth evenly. For convenience, you can count the number of movements; for each tooth it should be the same
A file that has a velvet notch will help you get rid of burrs from your teeth. The notches on the side edges of the hacksaw must be removed using a whetstone.

At the end of sharpening, you should definitely check the quality of sharpening and the sharpness of the teeth. A well-sharpened edge does not shine.

Sharpening the saw

Sharpening saw teeth. By its properties, art requires faithful hands, a good eye, and attention. It is not difficult to learn this business, you need to have the desire and correctly adhere to the following rules:

The saw blade must be aggressively secured in a special device made of wood, which is also stably mounted on a well-lit desktop. Sharpening saw teeth on stools or knees does not give satisfactory results.
You should use a personal file with the following cleaning of the sharpened edges of the teeth with a velvet file (with a small notch) or a needle file. It is better that the ratfil is new, sharp and with a mounted handle. If there is no such thing at the right moment, then they use a second-hand one, alas, certainly cleaned with a wire brush and rubbed with charcoal so that the ratfil does not become clogged or even dull. When sharpening a tooth, the ratfil should cling to its metal and remove its layer, depending on the force of pressure. If it slides over the tooth without removing the metal, then the saw teeth are overheated or worn out. In this case, you need to repeat sharpening with a new ratfil. If in this case it slides over the tooth, then you just have to take another saw.
The handle of the ratfil is clamped with your right hand, and its end is held with your left hand and the ratfil is directed towards the teeth of the saw. Working with a ratfile based on the type of saw is described below.
The pressure of the ratfil on the teeth is expected to be smooth and uniform and exclusively in one direction away from you. When returning the ratfil to its initial position, it should not touch the teeth.
It is necessary to try to grind off metal from the edges of teeth of slightly similar thickness, driving the grinder in the same system a number of times with similar pressure, which allows you to maintain the angles, pitch and height of the teeth after sharpening.
On the edges of the tooth, which are not familiar to the exit of the ratfil, burrs are formed, which reduce the sharpness of the tooth; if they are not removed, then during operation of the saw they are chipped, and the teeth become significantly dull. To remove burrs, the edges of the teeth are sharpened with a ratfile with a velvet notch and the burrs are removed from the side edges with a damp whetstone.
After sharpening the teeth, you need to inspect their sharpness. Look at the point of a needle and the edge of a razor blade: although they are sharp, they do not sparkle in the light. If they are dulled, rounded surfaces appear on the tip of the needle on the edge of the blade, which reflect light and shine perfectly. This principle is used to test the sharpening properties of saw teeth. For this purpose, a saw is placed in your field of view and its teeth are examined along the blade. If their cutting edges and tops do not shine, then the saw teeth are sharpened satisfactorily; if some of the teeth are shiny (this often happens), then they need to be sharpened with a velvet notch, remove the burrs and again check the reflection of light on their edges and tops.

Crosscut saws

. The teeth of cross-cut saws are sharpened using a triangular file with a small notch with an apex angle of 60°.

To sharpen the teeth, the saw is clamped into a special device that allows you to set its blade at an angle of 45-50° to the plane on the desktop of the local computer. The ratfil is carried parallel to the work table at an angle of 60-75° to the saw blade and in this way the left edge of A1A2B4B1 is sharpened in the first tooth.

The saw teeth are sharpened in several stages. At first, the ratfil is passed along the left edges of the odd teeth located in a distant row, tuning the hands for the same movement of the device. Then they pass the file along the right edges of the same odd teeth, finishing sharpening the main cutting edges with very sharpened tips. After sharpening the odd teeth, the saw blade in the sharpening device is turned over and in this way the even teeth that are in a distant row are sharpened. When sharpening the teeth of cross-cut saws, you need to carefully ensure that each tooth has sharp main cutting edges with a dihedral angle φ = 60-75°, a small cutting edge and a sharp tip.

To sharpen the teeth, the saw blade is mounted vertically in a clamping device, which is usually mounted on a desktop. Below are two methods of sharpening the teeth of longitudinal saws, differing only in the sharpening angle φ, i.e., in the directions of the grinding file relative to the saw blade.

Source: auramm.ru

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How to use saw wiring Link to main publication

How to set a saw and what it is

Sharpening a hacksaw is not a complicated procedure that begins with a process called setting the teeth. This procedure is carried out with one simple goal - to provide free movement of the blade when working with the tool. The lack of routing leads to the fact that the tool will get stuck in the thickness of the workpiece being cut, which will cause inconvenience in work.

Setting the teeth of a hacksaw is a procedure that involves straightening the teeth in different directions. The main thing is that each tooth is bent the same amount as the previous one. The greater the deviation of the tooth from the plane of the blade, the greater the width of the cut. The greater the width of the cut, the higher the process of removing chips from the cut, which means the faster the useful work is done.

The possibility of jamming of the blade depends on the width of the teeth. The greater the width of the routing, the less likely it is that the blade will jam inside the workpiece being cut. Not many people know what the tooth spread should be. However, this parameter must be taken into account, since the quality of the tool’s work depends on it. The size of the tooth set primarily depends on the thickness of the steel blade. This parameter is usually from 0.5 to 2 mm. It all also depends on the type of wood (dry or wet) with which you plan to work:

For raw wood, the deflection value should be in the range from 0.5 to 1 mm. The thicker the canvas, the greater the bend should be
For dry wood, the deflection value is from 0.3 to 0.5 mm

To determine the size of the wiring, a special device is used - a template, which you can make yourself from a piece of timber. A photo of such a device is shown below.

Number 1 shows the template, 2 is the tooth set value, and 3 is the hacksaw blade.

When you know the amount by which you need to set the teeth, you can get down to business. To implement the action, special devices are used. It is not necessary to use these devices, as a regular screwdriver with a wide blade will do. The disadvantage of a special device for setting the teeth of a hacksaw is that the price of such a device in the form of pliers is quite high.

Instead of special pliers, you can use adjustable plates. This tool is designed with manual adjustment and stop. The straightening process begins with the fact that the blade needs to be fixed in the jaws of the vice, and then get down to business. First you need to go along one side, and then repeat the procedure on the other. Moreover, you need to bend the teeth not at the cutter itself (the base or sharp part), but from the middle.

This is interesting!
As soon as the teeth are straightened to the same distance, you will also need to carry out the procedure for leveling the height of the cutting parts. To identify which teeth have a greater height in relation to others, you should press the blade with the cutting part to a sheet of paper. An imprint will be displayed on a piece of paper, from which it is not difficult to identify which teeth need to be shortened. To shorten them, you can use a flat file.

Sharpening a hacksaw for wood with your own hands

If the instructions for the blade do not indicate the exact parameters, the layout is done according to the general rules: The width of the cutting edge overhang should be 1.5 - 2 times the thickness of the blade. Wider routing is done for wet wood, or in the case of cutting along the grain. If, when processing such wood, the width of the teeth is small, the blade will jam in the cut.

On the contrary, with a wide spread, it will be inconvenient to process normal wood across the grain. The cut will be uneven and you will have to put more effort into cutting the saw.

There are convenient tools for setting teeth, with which you can straighten a long blade in a few minutes. However, such pliers are expensive.

Most DIYers use traditional adjustable plates the old fashioned way, with manual adjustment and stop.

The blade is clamped in a vice, or pressed against a workbench using a long block and clamps. The teeth are aligned one after another, first one side, then the other.

Then you need to level the height of the cutting edges. To do this, place a sheet of paper on a soft, flat board, and vertically press the blade against it (with the cutting part). The imprint will show which teeth have different heights.

Sharpening a hacksaw on wood with your own hands video from the master handyMEN

It is advisable to adjust the size to one level, otherwise you will have to put more effort when cutting. Of course, if one or two teeth are ground down more, it is unreasonable to align the rest to this height. If most of the incisors are discordant, it is necessary to equalize their sizes as much as possible.

After leveling, you can start sharpening the hacksaw on wood. The easiest to maintain is a hacksaw with a large tooth. For sharpening, you can use a finely cut file and a regular vice.

Why and when to sharpen

The tool in question is subjected to various loads during operation, which leads to dulling of the teeth. If you cut with a saw that has dull teeth, the result will be much less effective compared to a sharp one. In addition, using a saw with dull teeth is not recommended for the following reasons:

Needs sharpening

Reduced tool performance. Not only the master’s strength will be wasted, but also his time.
Reduced accuracy of work. It is impossible to cut wood materials smoothly with a hacksaw with blunt teeth, much less do it accurately.
Danger of using the tool. During the work, the saw will get stuck, jam, and move off the cutting line, so such work can be dangerous for the master.

A sharp hacksaw is not only easier to work with, but also much safer.

To determine that the time has come to sharpen the wood hacksaw blade, you should pay attention to the following factors:

The canvas makes a characteristic dull sound. If a master often uses a hacksaw, then it will not be difficult for him to identify such a sound.
The tips of the teeth are rounded.
The file, when trying to cut wood, refuses to perform its task.

These factors indicate that it’s time to sharpen your wood hacksaw yourself. But before you take up the file, you should determine whether these links can be sharpened.

Essential sharpening tool

To perform such a seemingly simple operation, you will need a rather impressive list of tools. However, if one of them is not at hand, you can try to find a replacement for it. What you cannot do without is a workbench with a vice, since only with their help can the saw be firmly fixed for work. The rest of the list looks like this:

a “wiring” device, which, if missing, can be replaced with high-quality pliers. In this case, you will have to determine the approximate distance from the center for each tooth;
a sharpening stone with sandpaper or a set of needle files and files;
hammer;
additional light source;
In some cases, a caliper and protractor may be needed to take accurate measurements.

Special mention should be made of the method of sharpening hand saws using a grinder. In this case, you will need to have the angle grinder itself, a workbench and a pair of clamps, since the blade will need to be fixed horizontally.

Turning process step by step

When manually sharpening with a file, it is easier to control the material removal and set the correct edge angles. The blade must be clamped in a miter box or vice, ensuring that the teeth protrude above the jaws by about 30–35 mm. Setting is done before sharpening for three reasons:

so that the cutting edges are not subsequently damaged;
so that a slightly stronger spread is ensured in advance, which is compensated by removing a certain amount of metal from the teeth;
so that the direction of the cutting edges and the teeth set are uniform.

The most important rule for sharpening wood hacksaws is: the tooth must have a flat side on the side in which it was set. Thus, the cutting edges of adjacent set teeth are directed towards each other, that is, inside the channel formed by the set.

After clamping the blade, it is necessary to clarify the sharpening angle of the cutting edges. Ideally, it should be determined by the hardness of the wood being processed, but since a hacksaw is used for sawing various types of wood, a universal value of 60–75° from the plane of the tooth is set for all types of profiles. There is a certain difficulty in determining the sharpening angle relative to the plane of the blade in order to confidently control the position of the tool. This can be done using a flat metal plate, choosing the least worn tooth as a standard; usually this can be found closer to the handle.

When sharpening, you need to process those teeth that have their edges facing you. Maintaining the correct angle between the edge of the file and the blade, and also slightly tilting the file towards the edges, you need to remove 2-3 material from the cutting edges, applying pressure while moving away from you. After each pass, you need to ensure that the metal is removed over the entire surface of the edge, adjusting the position of the file if necessary. To ensure uniform sharpening, the number of file movements on each tooth must be the same. A good result of sharpening is considered to be uniform lightening of the blade descent over the entire area.

Sharpening a blade on an abrasive wheel is more difficult due to the fact that the blade does not have a stop. However, with proper skill, you can achieve accurate removal of metal from both sides of each tooth. As with hand sharpening, the movement of the cutting tool should be directed towards the flat part of the tooth, thus the entire blade is sharpened twice with a revolution.

How to determine when a hacksaw needs sharpening?

People with extensive experience simply determine this moment by the sound made by the equipment during operation, also by the change in the color of the teeth. Newcomers need to pay attention to the following signs:

working with a hacksaw becomes difficult and requires enormous physical effort;
it becomes very difficult to make a perpendicular cut of wood;
it becomes difficult to hold the blade along the mowing line during operation, it begins to deviate in different directions;
The hacksaw blade often jams.

Wiring

Before restoring the sharpness of the saw, it is necessary to adjust the teeth, in other words, move them apart. Setting is the installation of cutting teeth at a certain angle relative to the blade and each other. If you look at the set saw, you can see that they, alternating, deviate to the right and to the left from the blade itself. This configuration gives the hacksaw freedom in the deepest cuts. It doesn’t get stuck because it doesn’t touch the walls with its entire plane.

To set the correct angle for each tooth “by eye”, you need a lot of experience, which not every carpenter has. It comes after many 10s of sharpened saws. For the least experienced carpenters, there is a tool called a setting tool. A simpler version is a flat iron plate with a slot. A hacksaw is inserted into this gap with the smallest gap, into the tension.

The wiring process looks like this:

Secure the hacksaw in a vice like this. It is necessary to ensure that the teeth protrude 2 cm above the jaws.
The teeth are clamped in the groove and then bent in the middle.
First you need to bend all the even teeth in one direction, then bend the odd ones in the opposite direction.
At the end, you can spread the jaws of the vice according to the calculated width of the spread and try to pass the saw between them.
An excessively bent tooth will hit the vice. Use pliers to bend it a little further.

Sharpening a hacksaw for wood with your own hands

On the contrary, with a wide spread, it will be inconvenient to process normal wood across the grain. The cut will be uneven and you will have to put more effort into cutting the saw.

There are convenient tools for setting teeth, with which you can straighten a long blade in a few minutes. However, such pliers are expensive.

Most DIYers use traditional adjustable plates the old fashioned way, with manual adjustment and stop.

The blade is clamped in a vice, or pressed against a workbench using a long block and clamps. The teeth are aligned one after another, first one side, then the other.

Sharpening a hacksaw on wood with your own hands video from the master handyMEN

After leveling, you can start sharpening the hacksaw on wood. The easiest to maintain is a hacksaw with a large tooth. For sharpening, you can use a finely cut file and a regular vice.

Why and when to sharpen

Needs sharpening

Reduced tool performance. Not only the master’s strength will be wasted, but also his time.
Reduced accuracy of work. It is impossible to cut wood materials smoothly with a hacksaw with blunt teeth, much less do it accurately.
Danger of using the tool. During the work, the saw will get stuck, jam, and move off the cutting line, so such work can be dangerous for the master.

A sharp hacksaw is not only easier to work with, but also much safer.

To determine that the time has come to sharpen the wood hacksaw blade, you should pay attention to the following factors:

The canvas makes a characteristic dull sound. If a master often uses a hacksaw, then it will not be difficult for him to identify such a sound.
The tips of the teeth are rounded.
The file, when trying to cut wood, refuses to perform its task.

These factors indicate that it’s time to sharpen your wood hacksaw yourself. But before you take up the file, you should determine whether these links can be sharpened.

How to properly spread the teeth of a hacksaw?

A fairly common question is how to set the teeth of a hacksaw on wood. If they are offset in one line, the cut is narrow and the working part gets stuck in one place. In this case, the metal quickly heats up, due to which it begins to expand. In order to set the teeth efficiently, it is recommended to use special mechanisms. Recommendations for the work being carried out are as follows:

The saw is clamped in a vice for secure fixation. You can eliminate the possibility of damage to the working part by using plywood as a lining.
All cutting elements are bent one at a time to the recommended angle.

When considering how to make a cut on a hacksaw, we note that several elements deflected at a larger angle can make sawing more difficult.

How to sharpen a hacksaw

When working with wood in various ways, a tool such as a hacksaw is actively used. Over time, the cutting surface of the tool wears out, and the process of sawing wood becomes more and more difficult. Wear of the working edge is as follows:

the pointed tops of the teeth are rounded;
their side cutting edges become dull.

As a result, the tool loses functionality and needs to be sharpened.

How to determine when a hacksaw needs sharpening?

People with extensive experience can easily determine this moment by the sound made by the tool during operation, as well as by the change in color of the teeth. Beginners need to pay attention to the following signs:

working with a hacksaw becomes difficult and requires great physical effort;
it becomes very difficult to make perpendicular cuts in wood;
it becomes difficult to hold the canvas along the line during operation, it begins to deviate in different directions;
The hacksaw blade often jams.

Teeth setting

The setting of the saw is the deviation of the tops of the teeth from the plane of the blade. The teeth, one after another, are deflected in different directions: odd teeth in one direction, even teeth in the other.

You need to know that the quality of the wiring has a strong influence on the sawing process. Therefore, all teeth must be bent in different directions alternately by the same amount, otherwise:

if some teeth are deflected at a greater angle than the rest, they will interfere with the movement of the tool and wear out faster;
if the deviation is less than necessary, then the width of the cut will not allow the blade to move freely.

To set the saw teeth, a special tool is used - a setter. The simplest wiring looks like a small metal plate with a handle. It has a slot, the width of which is slightly greater than the thickness of the hacksaw blade. The teeth are set as follows:

the saw is clamped in a vice so that the jaws of the vice end at the base of the teeth;
then the teeth are alternately placed in the setting slot and, bending in the middle part, are moved to the side at a given angle;
Periodically, the quality of the wiring is checked visually or using a caliper;
To check the quality of the setting, the jaws of the vice are moved apart to the width of the setting and the saw is pulled between them (in this case, excessive bending of any tooth will not allow the blade to move freely between the jaws).

Checking the height of the hacksaw teeth

Therefore, before sharpening the hacksaw, you need to check the height of the cutting elements. This is done as follows:

Place a sheet of paper on a flat and smooth surface and press the saw tightly against it;
the profile is clearly imprinted on the paper, and the teeth become clearly visible;
if higher teeth are found than the rest, then the saw is clamped in a vice and they are shortened to the desired height using a flat file.

Sharpening a hacksaw

For sharpening you will need the following tool:

vice;
hammer;
calipers;
pliers;
emery block;
sandpaper.

You should also have the following types of files in your arsenal:

flat and diamond-shaped with a medium-sized notch;
triangular file;
triangular with velvet notch;
needle files with notches of different calibers.

For sharpening, a special device is used that allows you to fix the blade at angles of 45 and 90 degrees. If you need to sharpen a cross saw, proceed as follows:

the canvas is fixed at an angle of 45 degrees;
sharpening is carried out with a triangular file with an apex angle of 60 degrees;
the file is directed onto the hacksaw tooth at an angle of 60 to 75 degrees;
first, with several movements of the file away from you, the left edges of the odd teeth are processed;
After this, the hacksaw is turned over and the left edges of the even teeth are processed.

When sharpening a longitudinal hacksaw, proceed as follows:

the canvas is fixed vertically;
for sharpening, a rhombic file with a fine notch is used (needles can be used);
during sharpening, the file is directed strictly parallel to the table;
otherwise the process is similar to the previous one.

Burrs that appear on the edges of the teeth must be removed using an emery block or a file with a velvet cut.

The process of sharpening a saw for the first time is quite difficult, so it is better to carry it out in complete silence and with maximum concentration. It’s worth doing this a few times, and then things will become habitual and go “like clockwork.”

Hand saw care

You need to be able to not only trim and sharpen a saw, but equally important is its proper storage. When the saw is not used for a long time, it should be kept in a dry and warm room, otherwise, if moisture gets on it, it may rust. Even if the tool is treated with special means, this will not guarantee that it will not be subject to corrosion.

Source: kremonty.ru

The main cutting element of any hand saw is a series of teeth cut on the blade and representing wedge-shaped cutters. Wood, in the manufacture of all kinds of products from it, is sawn along, across and at an angle Θ to its fibers; in this regard, transverse, longitudinal sawing and sawing at an angle to its fibers are distinguished, and in each case they use the appropriate type of saw, which differs from others in shape teeth

When cross-cutting, cross-cut saws are used, the cutting edges of the teeth of which, when moving in the wood, cut its fibers like a knife and form a cut. Longitudinal sawing differs from cross-cutting in that the direction of movement of the saw is parallel to the grain of the wood. The leading edges of the teeth of rip saws plan wood, like knives in planes, and, going deeper, form a cut. When sawing wood at an angle Θ, universal (mixed) saws with teeth that are an intermediate form of teeth for transverse and longitudinal saws are used to its fibers.

Sharpening the saw

Sharpening saw teeth is an art of its own, requiring faithful hands, a good eye, and attention. It is not difficult to learn this business, you must have the desire and strictly adhere to the following rules:

The saw blade must be rigidly fixed in a special device made of wood, which is also firmly installed on a well-lit work table. Sharpening saw teeth on stools or knees does not give satisfactory results.
You should use a personal file, followed by cleaning the sharpened edges of the teeth with a velvet file (with a fine notch) or a needle file. It is advisable that the file be new, sharp and with a mounted handle. If you don’t have one at the right time, you can use a second-hand one, but it must be cleaned with a steel brush and rubbed with charcoal so that the file does not become clogged or dull. When sharpening a tooth, the file must grip the metal and remove its layer depending on the force of pressure. And if it slides over the tooth without removing the metal, then the saw teeth are overheated or the file is worn out. In this case, it is necessary to repeat sharpening with a new file. If in this case it slides along the tooth, then you just have to take another saw.
The handle of the file is clamped with your right hand, and its end is held with your left hand and the file is directed towards the teeth of the saw. How to use a file depending on the type of saw is described below.
The pressure of the file on the teeth should be smooth and uniform and only in one direction away from you. When returning the file to its original position, it should not touch the teeth.
You should try to grind the metal from the edges of the teeth to a minimum of the same thickness, moving the file the same number of times with the same pressure, which allows you to maintain the angles, pitch and height of the teeth after sharpening.
Burrs form on the edges of the tooth on the side where the file exits, which reduce the sharpness of the tooth, and if they are not removed, then during the operation of the saw they chip and the teeth become significantly dull. To remove burrs, the edges of the teeth are sharpened with a file with a velvet cut and the burrs are removed from the side edges with a wet whetstone.
After sharpening the teeth, you need to check their sharpness. Look at the point of the needle and the edge of the razor blade: although they are sharp, they do not shine in the light. And if they are dulled, then rounded surfaces appear on the tip of the needle and on the edge of the blade, which reflect light and shine well. This principle is used to check the quality of saw teeth sharpening. To do this, place the saw in front of your eyes and examine its teeth along the blade. If their cutting edges and tips do not shine, then the saw teeth are sharpened satisfactorily, and if some of the teeth are shiny (this often happens), then they need to be sharpened with a velvet file, remove the burrs and again check the reflection of light on their edges and tips.

Crosscut saws

. The teeth of cross-cut saws are sharpened using a finely cut triangular file with an apex angle of 60°.

To sharpen the teeth, the saw is clamped into a special device that allows you to set its blade at an angle of 45-50° to the plane of the work table. The file is led parallel to the work table at an angle of 60-75° to the saw blade and thus the left edge of A1A2B2B1 is sharpened in the first tooth.

Teeth setting

The teeth deviate from the plane of the blade in a checkerboard pattern, for example, all even ones to the left, all odd ones to the right. Only very experienced carpenters are able to position saws on wood “by eye.” This skill comes after several hundred diluted saws. Less experienced craftsmen are better off using a special tool - a setting tool. The simplest version of the tool is a flat plate made of durable metal with a slot into which the blade fits tightly, with minimal clearance. The saw blade should be clamped in a bench vice. The teeth should protrude slightly from the jaws. The teeth, one after another, are clamped into the groove of the plate tool and bent in the middle part. The wiring angle must be constantly monitored. First, bend all the even-numbered teeth in one direction, then all the odd-numbered teeth in the other. Once the wiring is complete, you can spread the jaws to the width of the wiring and stretch the fabric between them. If any of the teeth are bent more than necessary, they will hit the vice. They need to be fixed.

Teeth setting

Canvases with hardened teeth are not subject to routing.

Hand saw wiring methods

This is best done on special equipment - an adjustable machine. Using an indicator, you can determine the correct deviation of the tooth, so the work can be done in a matter of minutes.

If the machine is difficult to find, you can open the hacksaw manually

.
However, performing the procedure will take a lot of effort and time, and besides, you cannot do without a special tool - wiring
, which you can make on your own. It is a metal plate with a sawn groove 1.5 mm wide and 5 mm high. The saw is clamped in a vice and with this groove the tooth of the tool is grabbed and moved in the desired direction.

This must be done in a certain order.

. First, the teeth are deflected through one in one direction, then the rest in the other. In this case, there should be no distortions, and the teeth should be straightened symmetrically. It is not the entire tooth that bends, but only its top (that is, its third part), otherwise it may break. The width of the setting should be equal to twice the thickness of the blade; if the teeth are set too wide, the hacksaw will be difficult to move, and too much wood will go into the sawdust. In addition, if the tool is set incorrectly, the tool will “wedge” and an even cut will not work.

You can also open the saw using a screwdriver or chisel. The tool is placed between the teeth and rotated; before this, the saw should also be clamped in a vice.

How to set teeth on a circular saw

For longitudinal and cross cutting of solid wood on circular saws, circular saws are used. It is recommended to use circular saws

whose parameters correspond to the work being performed, are properly prepared and do not have mechanical damage. Often, if operating recommendations are not followed, circular saws fail prematurely - bulges and dents with characteristic burn marks appear on the body of the saw, chips of the hard alloy form on the teeth or their deformation.

Wood and wood-based materials are usually sawed using hand saws, and only in some cases it turns out to be rational to use electric saws.

The most important part of any saw is the blade with teeth, which must be either hardened, made of high-strength steel, or reinforced on the side of the non-working edge (back), which gives it the necessary strength and rigidity.

Sharpening and setting the saw

The main cutting element of any hand saw. a series of teeth cut on the blade and representing cutters in the form of wedges. Wood, in the process of making various products from it, is sawn along, across and at an angle Θ to its fibers; for this reason, transverse, longitudinal sawing and sawing at an angle to its fibers are distinguished, and in this case, a corresponding type of saw is used, which differs from others in shape teeth

When cross-cutting, cross-cut saws are used, the cutting edges of the teeth of which, when moving through the wood, cut its fibers like a knife and form a cut. Longitudinal sawing differs from cross-cutting in that the direction of movement of the saw is parallel to the grain of the wood. The front edges of the teeth of longitudinal saws plan wood, like knives in planes, and, going deeper, form a cut. When sawing wood at an angle Θ to its fibers, universal (mixed) saws with teeth are used, which are the intermediate form of the teeth of transverse and longitudinal saws.

Sharpening a hacksaw

vice;
hammer;
calipers;
pliers;
emery block;
sandpaper.

You should also have the following types of files in your arsenal:

flat and diamond-shaped with a medium-sized notch;
triangular file;
triangular with velvet notch;
needle files with notches of different calibers.

For sharpening, a special device is used that allows you to fix the blade at angles of 45 and 90 degrees. If you need to sharpen a cross saw, proceed as follows:

the canvas is fixed at an angle of 45 degrees;
sharpening is carried out with a triangular file with an apex angle of 60 degrees;
the file is directed onto the hacksaw tooth at an angle of 60 to 75 degrees;
first, with several movements of the file away from you, the left edges of the odd teeth are processed;
After this, the hacksaw is turned over and the left edges of the even teeth are processed.

When sharpening a longitudinal hacksaw, proceed as follows:

the canvas is fixed vertically;
for sharpening, a rhombic file with a fine notch is used (needles can be used);
during sharpening, the file is directed strictly parallel to the table;
otherwise the process is similar to the previous one.

Burrs that appear on the edges of the teeth must be removed using an emery block or a file with a velvet cut.

A saw is often used to process wooden blanks and change length and shape. This tool is represented by a combination of a working part and a handle. In this case, the working part is represented by a metal plate with cutting elements, which are located in a certain sequence relative to each other. Only with proper and timely maintenance can the possibility of product wear be eliminated. An example is the setting of the teeth, which is performed from time to time to ensure smooth movement of the tool along the resulting cut.

Device for setting saw teeth

Setting the cutting edge in different directions eliminates the possibility of the blade getting stuck during operation. An example is the case when, when cutting a thick log, the blade cannot be moved and removed. Also, the saw can jam due to the heating of the metal and its expansion, the hot part can heat the resin and turn it into a kind of glue.

You should use a tool for setting the teeth of hacksaws in order to avoid such problems. Do not forget that mistakes made during work can lead to even bigger problems. The procedure in question can be carried out using the following tools:

There are special mechanisms. They allow you to manually shift individual elements relative to each other. It is worth considering that this version is manufactured for specific products.
Mechanical wiring is most often used. They allow you to change the angle of position, as well as their width. This tool is characterized by higher efficiency in use.
The improvised version is not intended for working with a hacksaw on wood, but can be used for this purpose. An example is pliers and other improvised tools found in almost every workshop.

If sawing is carried out frequently, then experts recommend purchasing a special device that allows you to quickly set the required angle.

SO CAN Anyone Blade and sharpen saws (wood saws)

My method of cutting and sharpening a hacksaw

(on
wood
)

Techniques for setting saws.

To be able to make a divorce with a hacksaw, it is better to use special devices to perform the work. The essence of setting the saw is to bend the teeth from the center of the blade to the sides. The simplest device for this is wiring. It is made from a piece of metal plate, with slots made across it. The width of the slot corresponds to the cross section of the tooth, and the depth must be within 1/3 of the height of the tooth. You can make the wiring yourself by cutting the required recess in a metal plate with a hacksaw. If the width of the hacksaw blade is not enough for all this, then a double blade is used.

When working to establish the correct distinction between the cutting parts, the saw blade is clamped in a bench or carpenter's vice. At the same time, plywood gaskets are used. It is necessary to install the saw blade so that only the teeth protrude above the edge of the jaws. The layout is put on the cutting part with its cut. The required deviation is made. The teeth bend through one alternately.

General requirements for sharpening

Sharpening a hacksaw is a rather painstaking process in which accuracy is important. To make it easier, you should use only good files and needle files that are sufficiently sharp. If you have to sharpen your saw frequently, the best solution would be to have a separate set of tools for this job. Before sharpening, it doesn’t hurt to look at the teeth of the hacksaw. If their shade is darker than the canvas, then they are red-hot. It is impossible to sharpen such a hacksaw on wood.

When sharpening at home, you should remove the metal evenly. An equal number of passes with a file are made on each individual tooth, regardless of how worn it was before correction. In this case, you cannot change the sharpening angle, set by the inclination of the file, or rotate it around its axis. Movements should be made strictly from oneself, since it is with this technology that the efficiency of removing metal from a hacksaw is achieved, and the worker can confidently control the tool in his hands.

To avoid additional difficulties during sharpening, the saw blade should be firmly secured in a vice. It is desirable to have a source of direct light, which will allow you not to peer into the results of the work.

What is a "stapler"

If desired, a tool for cutting teeth on a hacksaw blade can be made at home in the workshop. The main component of the tool is a matrix with a triangular cutout resembling the shape of a saw tooth. Of course, you also need a punch included in the matrix, which can rotate around its axis. To adjust the height of the cut teeth, the tool uses an adjustable stop that moves to the right or left. Its parameters change using several holes and fixing bolts.

Important: the matrix and the punch must extend into each other with a minimum gap, and the working edges of both parts must form an angle of 90 degrees

How to sharpen a wood saw: simple step-by-step instructions | (Photo & Video)

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