Guys, how to press rubber bands, silent blocks and chairs out of the upper arms

Many buyers complain about the quick failure of silent blocks, while others, having purchased the same spare part for the same make and model of car, install and forget about them for a long time.

In order to protect yourself and your car from would-be repairmen, I recommend reading this article. So, let's begin.

A few simple tips for those who want to know how to change silent blocks correctly:

1) I want to say right away that it is not always the fault of the craftsmen; very often, for Chinese cars, the spare parts supplied to the secondary market are not of very good quality.

2) Even if you decide to buy an original Chinese silent block, or a cheap analogue, it will last much longer if it is installed correctly, so carefully watch how the master repairs your car, and if he makes any mistakes, do not hesitate to correct him, of course, As a rule, this infuriates the masters; they are completely confident that they know what they are doing, but because... They repair your car, for your money, you have every right to have him repair it correctly.

3) After the old silent block is removed, it is necessary to clean the place where the silent block fits from rust and dirt. After cleaning, the remaining grit, if sandpaper was used, must be removed from the surface. It is not allowed to have nicks, scratches, or any other damage in the landing areas, as well as on the surfaces associated with the landing area.

4) If the silent block does not have an outer ring, it is necessary to use lubricant so that it is not subjected to additional mechanical stress during the installation process. As a lubricant for rubber-metal products, you can use a soap solution or silicone grease, and for polyurethane products, you can also use lithium-based lubricants, such as litol.

5) If you see a hammer or sledgehammer in the hands of a master while he is changing the silent block for you, run away from this service at breakneck speed and never return there. All work on removing and installing silent blocks must be done with special pullers, but not with a sledgehammer or hammer.

Correct pressing of the silent block:

Please note that if the silent block has an outer metal ring, then it will be pressed correctly by placing a mandrel on the outer ring.

If the silent block does not have a metal clip, a cone-shaped mandrel is used to press it in, which allows the silent block to be evenly pressed into the lever. In this case, the mandrel must be placed on the inner race.

6) The most common mistake made by auto services when replacing silent blocks is incorrect broaching. Very often, when you ask people who complain that silent blocks quickly fail, the question: “how did the master tighten the silent block after installing it on a lift or lower the car?” you can hear the ironic: “of course on a lift, how he will squirm under the car when it’s lowered.”

In fact, all work on tightening the suspension should be done with the car lowered, and ideally, a load that is usually transported should be placed in the car so that the suspension returns to its normal operating position.

The fact is that when the machine is raised, the levers “hang” at an angle significantly greater than the angle at which they usually work, and if the master tightens in this position, after removing the machine from the lift to the ground, the rubber of the silent block will twist inside the lever, the rubber will either separate from metal, or simply crack due to internal tension, in the best case, if none of this happens, the car may even travel some distance, but the internal tension will not go away, and the silent block will very quickly become unusable. There is no need to feel sorry for the craftsmen; they should carry out the final broaching of the suspension ONLY WITH THE CAR LOWERED.

Silent block or rubber-mechanical hinge - two bushings (external and internal) between which there is a rubber or polyurethane insert. These hinges are used to connect parts in the suspension, as well as in the engine, gearbox and shock absorber mounting systems.

Due to the elastic force of rubber or polyurethane, peak loads that occur when hitting an obstacle, a hole, etc., are “damped.” Under normal operating conditions, the working life of silent blocks is 100 thousand km. But given the state of our roads, many of them do not survive half their term. The rate of destruction and wear of polyurethane/rubber is also affected by driving style: frequent collisions with obstacles or overcoming them with the brake pressed contribute to their rapid destruction.

How to understand when it's time to replace

Before you set out to press in these parts, you should first of all inspect them thoroughly to make sure that they really require replacement.
Check for holes and any deformations, for swollen rubber on the hinges and for cracks. Manipulate the components, determining the presence of backlashes. If the permissible norm is exceeded, then replacement of parts is inevitable. It is not recommended to delay the pressing procedure. Over time, this problem will only get worse and can lead to suspension arm failure. The main indicators that indicate the failure of one part or several:

Driving the car has become much more difficult.
When overcoming bumps, the suspension begins to knock loudly. Tires wear unevenly, which has not been observed before.
It has become much more difficult to adjust wheel alignment.

Theory

In order to make your work as easy as possible and reduce the risk of damage to parts to a minimum, and at the same time ensure high quality repairs, you need to follow several important rules:

The bearing must be pressed in using a mandrel only. It is strictly not recommended to apply force to the bearing through its working elements! If you need to press a bearing into a seat, then the pressing force must be applied strictly to the race with which you are pressing or pressing it. And in no case should you do the opposite: drive the bearing onto the shaft by hitting the outer race or hammer it into the socket by hitting the inner race, that is, apply force through the working elements
In order to facilitate work and minimize damage to sometimes very expensive parts, the mounting sockets must be heated to a temperature of 100-110 degrees. It is best to heat it with a hairdryer or in the oven according to the principle: if we press the bearing into the socket, then we heat the socket, if we seat the bearing on the shaft, we warm the bearing
For greater effect, heating can be supplemented with freezing in the following combination: if you need to press a bearing into a seat, we heat the seat and freeze the bearing. If the bearing needs to be mounted on a shaft, we heat the bearing and freeze the shaft. Unfortunately, freezing for various reasons is not always possible and you have to limit yourself to heating only. If possible, the bearing should be pressed in using an industrial press. This method provides a lot of advantages: only a linear load will be applied to the bearing, and not an impulse load if hammered in

Features of pressing silent blocks

Nissan Qashqai2 Front-wheel drive, manual Logbook Replacing subframe silent blocks.
Continuation So, how to properly press the silent block into the lever? – Proceed according to the following algorithm:

1. Buy a new silent block for your car model. There are no special requirements here. The main thing is that the part is original (that is, made at the factory, but somewhere in the basement) and has a polyurethane gasket.

2. Prepare a tool and device for pressing silent blocks.

There are two options here:

Borrow from acquaintances (friends) or buy mandrels for pressing silent blocks;
as an alternative, use a regular vice.

Since in practice no one searches for a mandrel, let’s consider the second option.

3. Before starting work, inspect all elements

Pay special attention to the design features of the parts and their correspondence to each other

4. Pressing in silent blocks with your own hands, as we mentioned above, can be done using a regular vice. This product allows you to securely fix the device and perform the main work.

The main advantage is that the vice perfectly replaces the tool for pressing silent blocks, which saves money. On the other hand, you will have to allocate more time for repairs, and you will have to rack your brains to find the necessary pipes (more on that later).

5. Before starting work, clean the lever and remove all existing dirt. After this, treat the internal surfaces with regular machine oil.

6. The outer metal bushing is processed and lubricated in the same way.

7. Now let's look at how to press the silent block into the lever. Proceed as follows:

Clamp the lever in a vice and make sure that the device is securely fixed; place the silent block strictly perpendicular

When performing this manipulation, it is important to act very carefully to avoid distortions

In case of an error, you can achieve only one thing - problems with the car almost immediately after repair. As a rule, a polyurethane hinge does not withstand such conditions for long.

Now drive the hinge itself into the lever. For these purposes, you need to use small pieces of metal pipe (the length should be short)

When choosing, pay special attention to the diameter of the product - it must coincide with the outer bushing of the silent block

Take one pipe and use it to fix the lever, and place a piece of the other pipe directly to the silent block. This is necessary so that during work you do not damage the new part with a hammer; press in, carefully observing the position of the pipe.

That's all. With the help of such manipulations, you can easily press the silent block into place and ensure normal operating conditions for your car.

If any difficulties arise during the work, it is better not to take risks and contact specialists. Good luck on the roads and of course no breakdowns.

Necessary materials

To press this part into place at home, you will need the following tools:

Mount;
Jack;
Set of wrenches;
New hinges.

It is recommended to use machine oil or other types of lubricant as a lubricant.

Among other things, you will need special mandrels designed for pressing silent blocks; as an alternative, you can use a piece of pipe with the required diameter. You also need to get a press to press in a new rubber-metal hinge . When it comes to home use, an ordinary vice can serve as a press. In addition, you can stock up on a set of sledgehammers, but with this approach it is necessary to maintain high precision in the work.

Pressing in silent blocks

Febest spare parts reviews

Having considered the general replacement algorithm, it is necessary to study in more detail the question of how to properly press in the silent block. Of course, with some skill and knowledge of all the nuances, pressing a part is not so difficult, but in practice, even experienced car repairmen often have problems precisely at the pressing stage.

It is worth noting that it is impossible to press in the silent block with your own hands. To carry out the event, you will definitely need additional tools. The most used and convenient for pressing hinges are the following items:

a bench vice that presses a part by squeezing from both sides;
special tools for pressing silent blocks;
homemade tools for pressing silent blocks.

For trouble-free and competent pressing, in addition to one of the tools presented earlier, you will need:

rags;
sandpaper or sanding machine;
silicone grease or its substitutes.

The general algorithm for pressing silent blocks is as follows:

Take the suspension part into which you need to press the new hinge, and carefully prepare it for this procedure. Preparatory measures include cleaning it from dirt and bringing the seat for the silent block to normal condition. For the latter, fine-grained sandpaper or similar sanding machines are used.

It is important that the surface of the hinge seat is free of any scratches, burrs or similar structural defects. Having prepared the part for pressing, lubricate the seat in it with a sufficient amount of silicone grease

If necessary, also lubricate the side surfaces of the silent block itself. Take the new hinge and begin pressing it into the seat in a manner accessible to you. It is most convenient to do this with a vice, squeezing the part and the silent block on both sides until the latter falls into place.

In theory, pressing a hinge is quite simple, but in practice, problems during the procedure are not uncommon. When pressing, you must act extremely carefully, as there is a risk of damaging the new silent block or the part into which it is pressed. The greatest chance of such damage occurs if the procedure is carried out using “handicraft” or “old-fashioned” methods.

The risk of damage can be reduced to a minimum by working carefully and pressing using special tools.

In general, replacing silent blocks in car suspension components is quite simple. The main thing with such repairs is to adhere to the previously presented information and not deviate from it. Do not forget that the process of repairing a vehicle is extremely responsible, so if you have any doubts about the correctness of its implementation on your part, contact professionals. We hope today's article answered your questions. Good luck with the renovation!

Video on how to press in a silent block at home:

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How to press out

Pressing out the silent block with two clips

Mark with a marker how the hinge was installed. There is an arrow on the rubber, draw a line.

If the rubber has not completely broken, you need to drill it out to knock out the inner sleeve. Using a hacksaw, carefully cut through the remaining rubber layer along with the outer ring. Use a chisel to knock out the remains of the outer sleeve.

It is important not to damage the inside of the lever. We make the cut on one side and control its depth. When pressing out, try not to damage the joint seat.

How to press out with one clip

The silent block can simply be knocked out. Take an adapter for the diameter of the bushing, place the lever on a stand with a hole whose diameter is slightly larger than the seat, or clamp it in a vice. From above, through the adapter, we hit the bushing and the hinge pops out along with it.

If the inner race has moved away from the rubber, or the rubber insert has torn and the bushing is not fixed, take an adjustment according to the size of the silent block. We repeat the procedure with a hammer and knock it out.

In both cases, it is advisable to use an adjustment to the diameter of the rubber so that the impacts fall on the rubber filler of the hinge. This way there is less chance that the inner sleeve will “fly out” without elastic.

Installing daisies in the front suspension beam of a VAZ

On the VAZ 2110 (and some other front-wheel drive cars), rubber silent blocks are used in the cross member of the front suspension. To change the characteristics of the suspension and handling, they can be replaced with rubber-metal hinges (popularly “daisies”). Let's look at this improvement in detail.

Replacing silent blocks of the front suspension cross member

We hang up the front wheels.
Remove the engine protection.
Remove the front suspension braces.
On a car with a VAZ-2112 engine, disconnect the front engine mount.

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Then:

We unscrew the bolt securing the support to the cross member of the front suspension (key “15”).
Loosen the nut of the bolt securing the support to the generator bracket and move it down (with two 15mm wrenches).
We unscrew the two bolts securing the cross member to the body (head “13”).
We unscrew the four bolts securing the cross member to the side members (head “19”)

Remove the front suspension beam.
Using a bolt and suitable sections of pipes with washers, we press the silent block towards the front of the car. If it is difficult to press out the silent block, cut off the collar from the side with a smaller diameter.
We clean the nest from dirt. We wet it and the new silent block with soapy water.
Pressing is done using a bolt with washers and pipe sections. In this case, the smaller shoulder of the silent block should completely come out of the hole in the cross member.

Daisies in the front suspension beam of a VAZ

─ Control becomes more precise. The car will respond faster and more clearly to steering wheel turns.
─ Reduce chatter during acceleration and braking. When braking, the wheels will no longer touch the wheel arch liners.

─ Faster wear of the daisies.

Replacing the silent blocks of the lower arms of the VAZ 2110 step-by-step instructions

1. We drive into a pit or lift the car on a lift, tear off the nuts on the wheel(s) on the side on which we are going to work.

2. Remove the engine protection, if any, and treat the nuts and bolts of the connections that need to be disassembled with penetrating liquid.

3. Unscrew the nuts securing the bolts of the front arms, as well as the nut of the stabilizer link mounting bolt and knock out the bolt.

4. Unscrew the bolts and nuts, thereby freeing the lever in which the silent blocks need to be replaced. There is nothing special to describe here, everything is definitely simple, unscrew the bolt or nut, if it doesn’t come off, spray it with WD or heat the soured (sticky) nut.

5. Pressing out old silent blocks is done using a special puller, which was mentioned above, or using a vice. I chose the first option. You can also remove old “silents” by burning it out; to do this, set the “silent” on fire and wait until it softens or burns completely.

6. Pressing out, regardless of which option you choose (a vice or a puller), is carried out according to the same principle: on one side, emphasis and pressure are placed on the silent block, and on the other, a cavity is created into which this silent block is squeezed out.

7. To press the silent block into the seat, you must first clean the seat from the remnants of the old “silent”, then you need to lubricate the hole and the silent block itself with a soap solution or, for example, some detergent (Gala, Fairy, liquid soap, etc.). d.).

8. Pressing in the silent block is carried out according to the following principle: we make such a “shish kebab”: we put a washer on the pin (long bolt), a new silent block, then we put on a lever into which we need to press, press this “silent” in, then we put on a piece of pipe into which it will fit the outer part of the silent block and again a washer so that it does not fall into the pipe. The final element of this “kebab” will be a nut, which will create pressure while moving along the turns.

9. Be careful, do not rush and watch how the pressing takes place; the silent block should go smoothly and stop only after its fixing collars come out a little from the seat. These collars will hold the “silent” in the socket; if you don’t tighten it enough or overtighten it, the service life of the product can be significantly reduced, moreover, problems may arise during assembly.

10. After pressing in the silent blocks, everything is assembled in the reverse order. Depending on what and how you disassembled, you may need to adjust the wheel alignment.

I hope step-by-step instructions and a detailed photo report on how to replace silent blocks on a VAZ 2110 will help you quickly and efficiently complete this job

Thank you for your attention, good luck with your DIY repairs. And remember the golden saying: “If you want something done well, do it yourself, with your own hands!”

How to press in silent blocks with your own hands?

We have already talked about how to remove the silent blocks, now another problem arises, how to press in the silent blocks? This procedure is complex in that it requires certain skills and abilities. A silent block installed incorrectly or “at awry” will either not work or fail ahead of time.

Method 1

As with pressing out, pressing should ideally be done using a vice. The principle is similar, but exactly the opposite. Before pressing in the silent block, you need to use sandpaper to clean the seat from rust and remnants of the previous silent block. Then the eye is generously lubricated with soap solution or Litol-type lubricant. A lever is installed, a silent block is placed on top, after which, through a special mandrel, press pressure is applied to the spacer, which will press the silent block into the seat.

Method 2

When there is no press, you can press in the silent blocks using the above-mentioned vice or jack. The principle is the same as that of the press. A lever, bushing, spacer are placed and, under the influence of a vice or jack, the silent is pressed into the seat.

How to press in a silent block using a vice - video

Method 3

Press puller. If the silent block is small, then you can “put it in place” using the same press puller that was used to press the silent block out of the socket. Again, the principle is the same, only a pin and a thick washer are used as a press.

Method 4

Sledgehammer and brute force. I strongly do not recommend this method for the reason that it is generally considered as purely theoretical, that is, it allows you to press in silent blocks, but it is quite difficult to say what the consequences and quality will be. The principle is quite simple, we take a lever, put a silent block on it, and then sharply and strongly hit the silent block, causing it to go into the ear of the lever. The disadvantage is that it is quite difficult to predict the correct movement of the silent block; it can go into the seat awry. It is also possible for the rubber parts to “bite” and damage the silent block or lever itself. In short, the blow is very difficult to control, and often after such “experiments” you have to go to specialists and redo everything. Therefore, think carefully before using this method.

Method 5

method I know of is to use the weight of the car. The principle is to use the weight of the car, so to speak, for personal gain. It all looks like this: a hydraulic or screw jack is installed under the car, the wheel is removed, although I think it is already removed if you are changing silent blocks, then a lever with a silent block is installed under the hub, which must be pressed in. Next, we align everything properly and begin to slowly lower the jack, it is better to have a friend or assistant help you. I think the weight of the car will be enough to press the silent block into the seat. The disadvantage of this method is that it is inconvenient and somewhat dangerous; in addition, it is quite difficult to control whether the silent block is correctly seated in the seat. However, if you have no other option, then the method is well worthy of your attention.

In principle, that’s it, I don’t know to press out or press in silent blocks If you know any other options worthy of attention, I will be happy to listen to them and publish them. Share your opinions from what you read and comment, I will be glad to see any constructive criticism. I also remind you that the best way to say thank you to the author of the article is to share this article with your friends on social networks using special social buttons. networks located just below. Peace and goodness to everyone, see you again at VAZ Repair.

Replacing silent blocks of the rear beam using the example of a VAZ 2109

To perform this operation you need:

spanner wrench size 19 (2 pcs.);
hammer and drift;
jack (2 pcs. if there is no lift);
a small block of wood;
device for pressing the silent block.

Silent block remover

The latter can be purchased or assembled yourself. It’s easy to do it yourself: look at the picture and prepare:

bolt Ø12 mm, L=170 mm;
clip Ø50 mm, H=40 mm.

The remaining elements are easy to select.

The silent block of the rear beam should be changed on a lift or using jacks on an overpass (pit). The sequence of operations is quite simple. Necessary:

unscrew the bolts that secure the beam;
remove the mounting bracket on the left side;
disconnect the rear brake adjuster rod;
remove the bolt;
slightly raise the car with a jack;
move the beam eye down;
insert a wooden block between the body and the beam;
knock out the old silent block with a hammer and drift;
lubricate the beam eye and the new rubber-metal hinge with soapy water;
install a new part using a special device;
remove the wooden block;
insert the bolt into the bracket, lifting the eye with a second jack;
tighten the bolts securing the beam to the body bracket (this can only be done with the car completely lowered to the ground!).

Don't neglect safety. Carry out periodic visual inspections, and at the slightest suspicion, replace worn parts. Good luck on the road!

Mandrel

It is not at all necessary to buy a mandrel; you can make it yourself in a few minutes from a scarce material: from the same bearing that needs to be pressed into place. If you are too lazy to bother, you can buy a mandrel or even buy a whole set and use it for your health. Whatever is more acceptable to you, then choose.

We take an old unnecessary bearing that is still capable of rotating. We bring the bearing to the wheel of the sharpening machine and grind the cage a little: if the bearing is turned across the stone, the work will go much faster

There is no need to sharpen the clip, literally a tenth of a millimeter is enough

We cut out the inner ring by welding

For ease of operation, we weld a washer onto the holder

Determining wear

It is generally accepted that the service life is 100 thousand km, but in domestic conditions it is recommended to inspect them after 50 thousand. Constantly working under heavy load, these parts often wear out and require replacement. You can understand when a silent block needs to be replaced during a routine technical inspection or by changes in the car's handling.

One of the indirect signs is a wheel alignment disorder (the car “steers” to the side or the tire begins to wear unevenly). We felt that the car was “floating”, the reactions in turns changed - a reason to sound the alarm. In most cases, this is caused by wear of the silent blocks. However, the exact cause can only be determined through detailed diagnostics, which can be done in a specialized service or, if you have certain skills, on your own.

For an independent visual inspection, you need a lift, pit or overpass. It is advisable to have an idea of what the new silent blocks look like and where they are located. We clean all rubber-metal hinges from dirt and carefully inspect them. The rubber part should not have cracks or tears, and the chassis parts should not dangle freely. To do this, check the play in the connections.

We'll look at how to replace the silent blocks of some suspension elements yourself below.

You can tell whether the silent block can be replaced by its appearance.

Press-fitting - bearing

The holes in the mounting cups (Fig. 7.11, a, c) are intended for the outlet of the housing from the internal cavity of the cup when pressing the bearing onto the shaft.

The holes in the mounting cups (Fig. 7.11, o, c) are intended for the free release of air from the internal cavity of the cup when the bearing is pressed onto the shaft.

Fitting the bearings onto the shackle axis is carried out similarly to fitting the bearing onto the crank pin, using for this purpose an oil bath for heating or a special mandrel for pressing the bearing.

Electric motor type EPT-2.

The cast aluminum disk 18 (see Fig. 81) of the movable brush is placed on the axis of the polisher body, secured with a screw and closed with a threaded cap (plug). After pressing the bearings, the disk is statically balanced, the end runout is allowed no more than 0 3 mm. When the cone roller is pressed onto the friction clutch, the roller carries with it the disk holder of the movable brush.

When installing bearings with twisted rollers and split outer rings, use the device shown in Fig. 17; it compresses the outer ring of the bearing, making it easier to fit into the housing. After pressing the bearings, it is necessary to check the fit of the bearing to the shaft shoulder or to the side of the bearing housing; a feeler gauge 0 05 mm thick should not pass through.

The steering gear screw needle bearing must be pressed into the upper cover of the steering gear housing so that the marked end of the bearing faces inside the cover. After pressing the bearing, the needles should move freely in the bearing race.

Method of mounting ball bearings.

To facilitate pressing the bearing onto the shaft, it is advisable to heat the bearing for 10 - 15 minutes in machine oil at a temperature of 80 - 100 C. When pressing the bearing into the housing, the latter is preheated with a stream of hot air or immersed (a small-sized housing) in hot oil. It is also possible to cool the bearing to a temperature of -75 C in a thermostat with dry ice.

The basic rules for installing bearings are as follows. When pressing the bearing, the force must be transmitted directly to the ring that is installed with interference. If both rings are installed with interference, then the force must be transmitted directly and simultaneously to both rings. It is unacceptable for force to be transmitted from one ring to another or from the cage to the ring through the rolling elements.

A device for pressing out the needle bearing housing of the cardan shaft of the Moskvich-2140 car.| Cardan joint assembly. / – cardan fork, 2 – retaining ring, 3 – bearing cup, 4 – seal, 5 – spider spike, 6 – bearing needle, 7 – dipstick. A, B, C, D – blades of the dipstick.

When pressing bearings, when the cross rests against the bearing housing (in this case there are no gaps), use a measuring probe, which has four petals 1 53 thick; 1 56; 1 59; 1 62 mm, determine the distance between the bearing housing and the end of the annular groove.

When pressing the bearing onto the shaft, the force from the mandrel must be transmitted to the end of the inner ring, and when pressed into the housing, to the torch of the outer ring. When simultaneously pressing the bearing onto the shaft and into the housing, a mandrel with concentric flanges abutting the ends of both rings is used.

In the crankcase and its covers, the press-fit areas of bearings, mainly rolling bearings, wear out. If the size of the hole for press-fitting the bearing is outside the tolerance established by the repair technology (which is determined during a defect with a non-passing plug or by eye), the crankcase or crankcase cover is rejected or bored out for press-fitting of an adapter steel sleeve. After boring the crankcase, use a special device to check the alignment of the bored hole with the hole in the front cover using an indicator. The misalignment should not exceed 0 02 mm.

In the crankcase and its covers, the press-fit areas of bearings, mainly rolling bearings, wear out. If the size of the hole for press-fitting the bearing is outside the tolerance established by the repair technology (which is determined during a defect with a non-passing plug or by eye), the crankcase or crankcase cover is rejected or bored out for press-fitting of an adapter steel sleeve. After boring the crankcase, use a special tool to check the alignment of the bored hole with the hole in the front cover using an indicator. The misalignment should not exceed 0 02 mm.

What is it and why

Appearance of silent blocks

A silent block is a hinge with internal and external metal bushings, inextricably connected by an elastomer (usually rubber or polyurethane). This small part plays a rather important role in the chassis of the car. By connecting the suspension arms, silent blocks dampen or isolate radial, axial, torsion and cardan vibrations, and also absorb various shocks and provide protection for other elements of the vehicle’s suspension. They have a wide range of applications, so even in running cars, several different shapes and types of these parts are used: for the front suspension - for the shock absorber, stabilizer, levers; for the rear suspension - for the shock absorber, stabilizer, rear beam mounting parts.

In addition, there is one for mounting the gearbox and engine.

What is a silent block

This word is of foreign origin. Translated from English, silent means silence, and block means detail. A silent block, or simply “silent,” is a rubber-metal component; in ordinary words, these are two bushings that are connected to each other by a layer of durable rubber. This invention, in addition to guaranteeing comfortable and silent movement in a car, has a number of advantages that will be listed below.

Purpose and functions

Silent blocks perform the following functions:

Protect components from wear and tear by damping vibrations .
They dampen vibrations that come from the chassis of the wheels, thus providing a comfortable and soft ride.
Prevent vibrations and beatings that appear during the movement of the car between different elements of the chassis and engine compartment.

And these are just the main advantages; in fact, there are many more.

How to press in a silent block - the most effective ways

Many car enthusiasts know that pressing a silent block into a lever or other suspension part is the most difficult thing when replacing it yourself. A silent block is a rubber-metal hinge, which consists of two bushings connected to each other by rubber or other material. Such parts are used for fastening various suspension components, engine and transmission. Due to their elasticity, silent blocks absorb peak loads on the body when driving on uneven roads, etc.

1 How to determine the need to replace the silent block?

The service life of a rubber-metal hinge is on average 120 thousand kilometers. In practice, everything depends on the specific car model, the quality of the silent blocks and the frequency of driving on uneven roads. The need for replacement is indicated by such changes in the behavior of the car as:

knocking of the suspension when hitting an obstacle,
loss of control when entering turns,
rocking of the car while driving,
uneven tire wear, etc.

If you find one of the above reasons on your car, you need to replace the silent blocks.

Since this part fits into a lever or other structure with force, its installation requires a special mechanical press, which is available in chassis repair shops. However, there are ways to press in a silent block using various tools and certain techniques.

2 Correctly press in the silent block with your own hands

Replacement of silent blocks must be carried out on an inspection pit or lift. It is recommended to remove the part on which the silent block needs to be replaced. The procedure for removing levers and other suspension elements with rubber-to-metal hinges may differ on different models. At the same time, it is almost impossible to press out the old silent block and press the new silent block into the lever without removing the latter.

To replace silent blocks, you will need new parts that match the diameter (external and internal, this is something you should pay attention to first when choosing new silent blocks). To press in a new silent block, you will need the following parts and tools:

set of keys and screwdrivers,
hammer,
sledgehammer,
vice,
knife,
sandpaper,
WD40 type lubricant,
soap solution.

Knock out the silent block using a sledgehammer. To do this, you need to use a special design based on a strong metal rod (for example, an M120 bolt), a washer and a metal tube with a diameter that matches the diameter of the silent block. This design must be struck with a sledgehammer until the bushing comes out of the hole. For a standard suspension arm on a passenger car, 5-10 precise blows are enough.

An easier way to press in a silent block is to use a blowtorch or gas torch. In this case, the old part is simply burned out. After the rubber has burned out for 10-20 minutes, the silent block can be pulled out using a chisel and a simple hammer. In both the first and second cases, after removing the old part, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the hole with sandpaper and lubricate it with a soap solution (the more, the better).

Hot press bearing technology

Pressing bearings in a hot or cold state is, as it turns out, a whole science.
In preparing this material, a lot of existing technological processes and research documents were studied. The data reviewed includes materials from the SKF Group, which specializes in solutions for bearings and bearing units, seals, services and lubrication systems. It should be noted that an entire doctoral dissertation could be written based on the materials of this company. For those interested, a link to their website will be after the article. Why is hot pressing of bearings necessary at all?

Sometimes this requirement is specified in the design documentation for the assembly of the unit. There are also a number of cases when the dimensions and weight of the bearing do not allow it to be installed on the mounting diameter using only pressure alone. In these cases, heating units are used.

The technology for hot installation of bearings is quite simple: the inner diameter is heated to a certain temperature and the bearing is installed on the shaft. Often this operation is carried out using a small press force.

Equipment for heating bearings can be divided into several types:

Oil baths are rarely used, because... there is a risk of bearing contamination and rapid failure (14% of all bearing failures occur due to contamination)
Heating plates with electric heating - also not used often, due to one-sided heating
Induction heating machines are the most commonly used type of equipment for hot mounting of bearings. We will talk about them further.

Here, probably many may think about using gas burners. This heating process is practically uncontrollable. During the heating process, you can get undesirable metal structures, warping and cracking.

Induction installations or installations for heating with high-frequency currents are divided into the following types according to their design:

Stationary induction heating installations
Mobile induction heating systems
Portable equipment as shown in the diagram

It is important to note that using the above links you can only view the basic design of the equipment. Induction hardening installations and induction installations for heating bearings will differ greatly in their characteristics: output frequency and electromagnetic field power

In terms of design, the bearing is an assembly unit with geometric tolerances of hundredths of a micron. Therefore, before planting, it is heated only to a temperature of 90-120⁰C on induction units with a low output heating power. This temperature completely allows for trouble-free installation of the bearing and without compromising its integrity. At this temperature, there are no quantitative or qualitative changes in the structure of the metal, and no distortion of geometric dimensions occurs. In principle, when heating bearings, the same laws of the electromagnetic field operate as during hardening with high-frequency frequencies.

These are perhaps the most important aspects of hot pressing bearings using induction heating. Hot installation of bearings is not a very complicated technology, but on the other hand it is a very responsible process, because 14% of all bearing failures occur due to improper installation.

As promised, the Russian-language website of the SKF Group

How to press a silent block into a lever

poor trajectory retention: at speed the car goes to the side (for example to the right) or yaws;
squeaking when shaking (driving on a so-called washboard) or manual rocking;
uneven abrasion of slopes;
camber/toe is set poorly and does not last long;
Completely dead silents are detected by a simple visual inspection: deformation of rubber or polyurethane, cracks or swelling on them.

The lever is removed from the car. If there is a hole, you can do without this step, but only a person who feels confident in the role of an auto mechanic can master the work in such conditions;
The old silent block is knocked out of its seat. Since it is only suitable for discarding, there is no need to stand on ceremony with it. Your task is not to damage the rest. To facilitate removal, use WD-40, heating the socket, brute force, cutting the outer shell with a jigsaw;
The freed eyelet is cleared of all excess that has collected in it. If burrs, scratches, or sharp edges are found, they are sanded;
The socket is coated with motor oil if the bushing in the silent block is polyurethane, or with soap solution if it is made of rubber. The same procedure applies to the bushing itself;
The restored lever is clamped tightly and extremely evenly with a vice;
A silent block is placed clearly at right angles to it. No distortions, otherwise the chassis will not work normally, and the new part will quickly become old, and the whole operation will have to be repeated;
Next, you will need 2 pipes, one of which must have the same diameter as the bushing of the silent block. One pipe holds the lever, the other is pressed against the silent. With precise, gentle blows, the joint is driven into its intended place;
Remember to lower the car onto the wheels when tightening the updated suspension, otherwise the lever will be at the wrong angle. And, of course, the last mandatory step should be wheel alignment.

Press-fitting – bearing – rolling

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The design of stands and pressings for pressing rolling bearings should, if possible, exclude the transmission of force through the rollers or bearing balls, as this leads to their collapse and damage to the treadmills. In these cases, the pressing force must be transmitted directly to the bearing ring that is being pressed. In order for the pressed parts to easily fit into the guide parts of the stands and press fittings, they must have chamfers at an angle of 30 or roundings made strictly concentric with the main diameter.

Keys for removing studs.| Presses for assembling parts.

If there are no special devices for pressing rolling bearings, use drifts made of copper or other soft metal. The blows transmitted through the drift are applied alternately along the entire end of the ring.

The greatest difficulty in assembling the unit is the unpressing and pressing of the rolling bearing onto the cylindrical part of the pin of the lower head of the connecting rod. If there is an oil bath for heating the bearing, the operation of seating the bearing on the pin is greatly simplified.

One of these devices with a double swinging pneumatic cylinder and a lever amplifier for pressing rolling bearings into housings and shafts is shown in pos.

One of these devices with a double swinging cylinder and a lever amplifier for pressing rolling bearings into housings and shafts is shown in pos.

The pressing of rolling and sliding bearings into the holes of parts or their installation on shafts is carried out using presses of various designs.

Installation of bearings in the housing, if the outer ring is pressed into the housing hole, is done in the same way, only the housing is heated or the bearing is cooled. Pressing a rolling bearing into the housing usually requires relatively little force.

The simplest methods for pressing rolling bearings.

In some cases, when parts need to be pressed into large and heavy housings, for example, into a lower frame or turntable, and presses cannot be used, special devices are used. If there are no special devices for pressing rolling bearings, then you can use drifts (Fig. 232, a) made of copper or other soft metal. The bearing is seated on the shaft by uniformly hitting a hammer pressed against the inner ring with a hammer. The blows transmitted through the drift are applied alternately along the entire end of the ring.

In some cases, when parts need to be pressed into large and heavy housings, for example, into a lower frame or into a turntable, and it is impossible to use presses, and also when excavators operate at a great distance from repair bases, special devices are used for pressing parts. In Fig. 264 shows devices for pressing bushings, and in Fig. 265 – for pressing in rolling bearings. Such devices can be made at any Khoi repair shop.

Simplifying assembly operations and assigning them to specific workstations allows for maximum mechanization of assembly. Line assembly areas are equipped with conveyors for moving engines, electric and pneumatic tools for tightening bolts, presses for pressing rolling bearings onto the shaft, rotary tables and other special mechanisms and devices.

When assembling rolling bearings, the following defects are possible. Ovality of the inner ring of a radial bearing occurs due to improper pressing onto the shaft. Misalignment of the rings during assembly leads to chipping of their edges. Rotating the rings on the shaft or in the housing leads to heating of the bearing and vibration. During assembly, care must be taken to ensure that the fixed ring is able to self-align to compensate for thermal expansion. When pressing rolling bearings, it is often necessary to heat them in an oil bath to 80 - 100 C.

Replacing silent blocks on nine and ten

So, if you decide to change the silent blocks on your car yourself, how to do it? Let’s take popular cars as an example: VAZ 2109, 2110 and 2107. Let’s assume you are about to replace the silent blocks of the rear beam of a VAZ 2109. In this case, the procedure is as follows:

we prepare tools and consumables - wrenches for wheel bolts, spanners for 19. Hammer, crowbar, a wooden block the size of a brick, a puller for hinges, a jack and new bushings for replacement;
jack up the rear of the car and remove the wheel;
to make your work easier, it is advisable to treat all bolts and fasteners with WD40;
disconnect the brake lines and unscrew the nut that holds the bolt connecting the rear beam with the mount on the body itself;
we take out the bolt and, using a crowbar, carefully move the rear beam down so that a wooden block fits between it and the body;
Now the hardest part is that you need to knock out the old silent block. This can be done using a special device or a hammer. As a last resort, drill out the old rubber and pull out the bushing scraps;
clean the hole and lubricate it with soapy water to make the new bushing easier to fit into place;
installing a new bushing is also not an easy task - for this they use a special device or a structure consisting of a bolt, nut and two large washers. A long bolt is threaded into the bushing and eye of the beam, and the nut is slowly screwed in so that the part snaps into place;
When everything is ready, we install the beam in place in the reverse order.

Note that replacing the silent blocks of the rear beam of a VAZ 2110 is carried out in a similar way, so we will not describe it in detail. But we’ll talk about the “seven” separately, using its example to show how to replace the bushings on the front suspension.

Pressing out at home

Replacing these parts is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. For example, many car owners made sure of this when they replaced parts, using special equipment for self-replacement. It is for this reason that there are many people who have decided to replace silent blocks with their own hands and at home.

First method

First of all, let's learn about how it should be ideally.

The lever in which the rubber-metal hinge needs to be replaced is installed on a special spacer for the press. The old silent will be squeezed onto this spacer. Then another spacer is installed on top - it squeezes out the old bushing. This method is used by service station workers, since they have the necessary set of spacers and a powerful press of 10-20 tons.

Second method

Almost all car owners, naturally, do not have a powerful press, but many have a jack or a good vice in their garage. If you use a powerful vice, you can successfully squeeze out the old bushings according to the principle that is already familiar to us: a spacer for the original bushing and a spacer for pressing on the bushing.

At first glance, it becomes unclear how you can squeeze out the silent tape with a jack? Everything is very simple: you need to weld a frame in the shape of a rectangle from a channel or corner so that its height is slightly higher than the lever and the jack. The operating principle is as follows: place the jack in the frame, then install the lever eye on top of the rod, as well as the two spacers mentioned above. We create the required pressure, after which the bushing is squeezed out of its seat. It must be emphasized that most often a jack with a capacity of 3-5 tons is not able to cope with such work, therefore it is recommended to use 10-ton jacks.

How to change silent blocks yourself

How to understand that silent blocks need to be replaced

The main purpose of the silent block is to eliminate noise and vibration, dampen harmful vibrations at the joints of suspension parts and soften shocks falling on it. If the silent block stops performing these functions properly, while driving, extraneous sounds coming from below become audible in the car interior - a characteristic knocking, creaking and rattling sound. The wear of the silent block is also indicated by the insufficient stability of the car while driving, this is especially noticeable on turns, during which the car, as they say, pulls to the side. The need to replace silent blocks is also indicated by uneven tire wear. If, in addition to all of the above signs, a visual inspection of the silent blocks reveals their initial destruction (cracks in the rubber layer or its squeezing out of the bushings), then the silent blocks need to be changed urgently, without waiting for their complete destruction. Let's talk about how this can be done using the example of classic VAZ models (VAZ 2101 - VAZ 2107).

How to change front silent blocks

In order to independently change the silent blocks on the upper and lower front arms, you will need the following tools:

device for pressing/pressing silent blocks;
steering wheel end remover;
ball joint remover;
a set of box, open-end and socket wrenches;
jack;
hammer.

How to change the silent block of the upper front control arm:

Drive the car into a viewing hole (or onto an overpass), put it on the handbrake, turn off the engine, and support the wheels with boots.
Loosen the bolts on the front wheel, jack up the car from the side of that wheel and remove it completely.
Unscrew the steering tip nut, then uncompress it.
Using an open-end wrench, unscrew the nut on the upper ball joint.
Use a ball joint remover to unpress the ball joint pin from the bipod.
Unscrew the upper arm axle nut and pull out the axle.
Clamp the upper arm removed from the car into a vice installed on the workbench.
Using a tool for replacing silent blocks, squeeze the old silent block out of the lever and press the new one into it.
Lubricate the lever axle with lithol and return the lever to its place, do not tighten the axle nut completely yet.
Secure the ball joint and begin replacing the lower arm silent block.

How to change the silent block of the lower front arm:

Unscrew the lower arm axle nuts.
Install the puller and push the old silent block out of the lever eye.
Remove the old silent block, lubricate the axle and threads with machine oil, and insert the new silent block into the eye.
Insert a stop bracket between the lower arm and the nut securing its axle to the lower beam.
Using a tool for replacing silent blocks, press in a new silent block.
After all the silent blocks on the side of this front wheel have been replaced, return the steering tips to their place and tighten them, tighten the lower axle nuts.
Install the wheel, tighten its bolts and remove the car from the jack.

Make final tightening of the nuts on the upper and lower arms after the machine has driven about one hundred meters. Tighten the nuts when the car is fully loaded - there should be four people in the car, and a forty-kilogram load in the trunk.

How to change rear silent blocks

Necessary tools and equipment:

spanners;
jack;
device for pressing/pressing silent blocks;
hammer;
strong wooden beam.

Operating procedure:

Drive the car onto an overpass or inspection hole, secure the car wheels with wheel chocks.
Remove the rear wheel
Disconnect the brake pressure regulator rod from the rear beam.
Unscrew the nuts from the bolts securing the rear beam to the bracket.
From the working side, lift the car with a jack and install a wooden beam between the car body and the rear beam.
Remove the old silent block.
Thoroughly clean the seat of the silent block from dirt, lubricate it with soap foam and press a new silent block there using a device.
Carry out further assembly of the car in reverse order.

How to press a bearing onto a pipe

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Before you begin to repair the pipe and press the bearing onto the pipe, you need to prepare the installation site and check the inscription on the bearing packaging and its markings.

Re-preservation of the bearing is carried out in accordance with the in-plant instructions, which specify the permissible heating of the part, usually up to +80 ... +90 ° C. Correct pressing of the original bearing onto the pipe involves heating the enclosing ring and cooling the seating shaft. If freezing is not possible, then you can limit yourself to heating only.

Installation algorithm

Thermal operations in service centers are performed in muffle or induction furnaces, and for small parts in mineral oil baths. In the absence of the necessary equipment, the parts are heated in an oven or with a hairdryer, taking into account the specifics of the connection. If the element is installed on a pipe, then the bearing heats up, if inside, then the seat. After heating, the elements are washed in special solutions, usually gasoline, a 6-8% oil solution or an aqueous anti-corrosion preparation consisting of the following components:

Water.
Sodium nitrate.
Triethalonamine.
Wetting agent OP.

The shelf life of treated parts without additional anti-corrosion treatment is limited to 2 hours.

Mounting accessories

The following are used as additional devices to facilitate and speed up the pressing process:

a guide tool in the form of fingers or a female ring that protects the connection from distortion. The choice of the type of auxiliary element that ensures uniform distribution of forces over the supporting surface depends on the diameter of the bearing;
puller,
standard keys.

Basic Rules

To minimize the risk of damage to elements and ensure reliability of the connection, it is recommended to take a number of precautions, which include:

Pressing in the bushings is carried out only using a mandrel or special cups made from a pipe with holes for bleeding air and a hammer. In this case, the size of the glass should slightly exceed the mounting diameter. You can make the mandrel yourself from old parts by turning them in the right places, but it is preferable to buy a ready-made set. Attempts to install the bushing manually using a hammer often end in jamming of the working rings. The best tool for doing the job is an industrial press, which creates a uniform linear load

When pressing a bearing, the main attention should be paid to the alignment of the parts. Deviation is fraught with distortion of the bushing shape, scuffing and destruction of the inner rings

How to control the quality of work?

An external inspection of the parts should not reveal chips, cracks, nicks, traces of corrosion, risks from processing and contamination;
When turned by hand, the bearing rotates quietly and without jumps. The most competent way to determine performance is to analyze vibration indicators.
An objective indicator of the proper functioning of a bearing is the temperature, which should not exceed the ambient temperature by 30°C. Its growth is provoked by excessive tension, lack of lubrication, small gaps, too much surface wear, and misalignment of the rings.
The tightness of the fit of the end part of the bushing to the supporting area is determined by a 0.03 mm feeler gauge. It must be uniform and comply with regulatory and technical requirements.

If the conditions are met, a reliable fit and minimal deformation of the elements are achieved. The work of installing a bearing on a pipe takes a few hours and is no more difficult than installing a wheel.