In a home workshop or when carrying out repairs on your own, you often need to cut some material quickly and evenly. For this type of work, a manual or electric jigsaw is used. The tool makes simple and straight cuts in metal pipes or sheets of drywall, and copes with the function of filigree threads or cutting out oval and rectangular holes.
Various manipulations are performed with jigsaw files with certain characteristics. Universal carving blades exist, but they perform the simplest operations and quality and speed suffer during processing. It is important to choose the right type of saw material according to the description for specific jobs and tools.
Jigsaw blades: marking to help
For a non-professional person, purchasing the right saw consumables can be confusing. You can always ask the question: “What are the types of consumables? Which company's products are better? Many brands produce specialized types for wood, iron, plexiglass, and plastic. It is important for a carpenter or home craftsman to understand the purpose of purchasing products and the selection criteria that will help determine the desired functionality.
Alphanumeric markings on the canvas and tail dyeing will help you make the right choice. Each symbol indicates performance and application based on the material being processed.
The first letter is the shank type:
- The T-shape model is the most common among many manufacturers;
- U-shape for older models of screw or block type power tools;
- M - special model with two holes, only for Makita;
- F - standard rectangular shape with one hole Fein.
The second number is the canvas size:
- 1 - short, up to 7.5 cm;
- 2 - average, 7.5 - 9 cm;
- 3 - long, 9 - 15 cm;
- 7 - maximum, from 15 cm.
The penultimate letter is the size of the teeth in ascending order of size:
- A - small;
- B - average;
- C, D - large.
The last letter indicates the special properties of the cutting blade:
- X - progressive pitch of teeth;
- R - reverse or reverse teeth;
- O - a particularly thin edge of the back of the canvas;
- P - ensuring the most accurate cut;
- F - made of double alloy, providing special strength.
Varieties of cutting edge geometry
All files differ in the size of the teeth, the pitch between them and the setting (deviation in different directions).
Milled, classic layout
These are teeth cut out on the canvas by milling with a regular set. One tooth is deviated to the left, the next to the right, etc.
It is called classic or traditional because the teeth on all hand saws, two-handed and sawmill saws, etc. are set in exactly the same way.
With this cut, the cut is wider than the blade. Therefore, clamps are eliminated, sawing is easier, and sawdust ejection is easier.
Milled, wavy layout
It also provides a wider cut than the blade, just like a classic routing. The difference is that the deviation in different directions is not just one for each tooth, but wave-like for several. “Waves” enter the material more smoothly, with less resistance.
Files with wavy layout are used for clean cuts on laminated chipboard, MDF, as well as for cutting metals.
Polished, classic layout
The geometry of the teeth of such files is the same as that of the milled ones described above. The difference is that after cutting and setting, the teeth undergo grinding, during which they are sharpened and acquire a smooth surface. Due to this, friction is reduced and sawing is accelerated, the cut is cleaner, and there are fewer chips of the material.
Conical grinding, without routing
The file has an even row of polished, sharpened teeth. In this case, the shape of the teeth is such that the cut is slightly wider than the blade and without setting. Provide precise, even and neat cuts on various materials.
Additional markings on the blade: what is important to pay attention to
Jigsaw equipment is supplied individually and in the form of universal sets of several blades: for soft and hard wood, for metal, and plastic. Responsible manufacturers add supporting information to consumables to avoid mistakes when choosing.
Material letters
- HM – especially strong alloys;
- .HCS (CV) - carbon composites;
- HSS - high speed metal;
- CV - chrome vanadium steel alloy;
- BM (BiM) is a bimetallic structure of strong alloys and high-speed metal, the most durable and wear-resistant.
Decoding the quality characteristics of the cutting edge
- Wood - work on soft wood;
- Hardwood - hard wood and PVC plastic;
- Metall - cutting of steel alloys and metalworking is possible;
- Inox - work with stainless material;
- Plaster, Fiber - fiberglass blanks;
- Alu - for processing aluminum;
- Soft-material - soft rubber and carpeting;
- Acrylic - acrylate and polycarbonate composites.
The purpose of a jigsaw consumable can be determined by the color of the tail section:
- gray color - work with wood materials;
- blue color - metal alloys;
- red - plastic surfaces;
- white - on wood and metal;
- black color - ceramic, steel, soft and fibrous materials.
Completing of the work
When the file has been selected, you still need to correctly saw the laminated board at home. Experts recommend sawing along a guide (a rail clamped in clamps will also work). If you use a new, unworn blade, you can cut chipboard as cleanly as you would with a circular saw. It is advisable to turn on the jigsaw at the lowest speed possible. This will significantly increase the resource of each file used.
The blades themselves are placed at right angles to the jigsaw sole. The easiest way to adjust the angle is with a square or protractor. Important: the straight line passing through the cutting edge of the tool must be parallel to the rigidly fixed part of the jigsaw. It is recommended to use special inserts that reduce the likelihood of splitting. But to make them work more efficiently, they usually cut the laminated layer on the side where the blade will come out.
To learn how to cut laminated chipboard with a jigsaw without chipping, see the following video.
A jigsaw is essentially a universal tool that allows you to make straight and shaped cuts in a wide variety of materials - from soft wood to steel and glass. However, the tool itself is universal, but not its equipment: each task requires a certain type of saw blade. To understand how to choose jigsaw files in each specific case, you need to figure out what criteria to use when choosing, how some blades differ from others, and how to guess this from their markings.
Read also: Solder for 925 silver
When you come to the store and look at the counter with jigsaw files, you will find that they are all very different. They differ not only in the length, width and thickness of the blade, but also in the size of the teeth, the geometry of the cutting edge and the type of tail. In this material we will look at what types of jigsaw files there are, their features and selection parameters.
Cutting down a tree
Jigsaw blades for hand and power tools are made of iron. Regular steel blades are designed for cutting soft and less durable materials. Sharp serrated edges made from reinforced composites have a wide range of functionality and cut metal and other types of raw materials.
For particularly durable structures with complex processing - granite stone, marble, porcelain tiles - diamond-coated saw blades or coated with super-hard alloys are used.
A wide range of saw elements are produced for working with wood workpieces and provide different types of cuts:
- Clean cutting of edges without jagged furniture or laminate boards will provide a cutting edge with a slight spread of fine teeth of less than 3 mm.
- a quick cut at high speed of large bars without maintaining precision will produce a long and wide blade with a significant spread of large teeth up to 6 mm.
- figured cutting is performed with a short narrow blade with a beveled back for improved passage of rounded elements, with fine teeth up to 2 mm.
Correction of chips that have arisen
Cutting material using a jigsaw and avoiding chipping is almost impossible. You can do this: cut the part with a jigsaw with a small allowance (2 mm), and then mill or grind off the allowance with a belt sander. When milling, the edge is cleaner than when working with a grinder. Usually, the material is milled using a self-made guide bar (modeled on a circular saw guide). Spiral cutters will improve the quality of milling. It is necessary to prepare them in the amount of two pieces.
If you need one front side to remain clean, you need to use an ordinary two-flute cutter. If you need both clean sides, then you should use a four-flute cutter with two main branches, which have a left direction, and two scoring branches, which have a right direction. Then it turns out that when cutting material, the upper branches press the material down, and the lower ones pull it up. This prevents chipping on the edges.
Laminated chipboard is one of the most widely used materials used in the independent manufacture of furniture. We can talk about its advantages and disadvantages for a long time. But it is much more important to learn how to cut laminated chipboard with a jigsaw without chipping.
Marking blades for hand jigsaws
A manual jigsaw is a simple arc-shaped design, with end fastenings for replaceable consumables. The saw blade of a mechanical tool differs from the saw blade of a jigsaw in the way it is fastened. The flat ends have no end pin and are easily secured with nuts or levers in the grooves of the arc tool.
There are several basic parameters for hand files:
- TPI - number of teeth per 1 inch. The larger the quantity, the better the quality of the cutting edge, but the speed of work slows down. The average number of teeth is 6 per centimeter.
- The spread of the teeth simplifies sawing and prevents jamming in the workpiece. The cutting width is increased, but chipping along the edge is minimized. Not all specimens have this feature.
- The size range of files is represented by 12 numbers. No. 0 with fine teeth performs curved complex patterns, No. 12 processes workpieces up to 20 mm.
- Types of working blade:
- standard, with identical unidirectional elements and equal tooth pitch. Used for straight cutting, which does not require precision and smoothness of the edge;
- with double teeth they work slowly, but do not overheat and leave an even cut without nicks and a small amount of waste;
- with missing teeth are characterized by high speed and prevent jamming in the workpiece. They heat up less during cutting and remove chips well;
- with a reverse (reverse) tooth pointing upward. Provides an ideal bottom cut of the part, which is important in jewelry;
- spiral teeth are located along the entire diameter. Allows you to make complex shaped cuts at low speed, without interrupting the process.
Reasons for chipping
If you observe the process of chipping, you can discover a pattern: when sawing from top to bottom, the teeth of the file do not saw through the material and do not form chips as they come out of it. When the process proceeds from bottom to top, the teeth catch and form kinks.
In a wooden material, fibers located in the vicinity are caught, and in laminated chipboard, the coating and chips are caught. If you try to saw two layers of laminated chipboard at the same time, the layer located below will be sawn efficiently, since the layer on top prevented the formation of chips.
An increase in processing accuracy will be provided by the “Soft Start” option, in which the jigsaw gradually picks up speed, and the cut itself proceeds as expected. Move the tool slowly. It is necessary to continuously visually monitor the position of the cutting point and marking.
Selection of hand jigsaw files for the material
Replacement material is sold in a set of several pieces. Files are made from a variety of raw materials; they cut metal, wood or plastic blanks. The cuts can be of different quality, clean, filigree or rough.
- Thick wooden blocks or plastic will quickly be cut by a standard blade with large teeth (6-7 per cm) or binary teeth. Additional sanding of the wood edge will be required.
- To obtain maximum evenness and smoothness of the edges of fiberboard, finishing or facing materials, a fine-toothed working surface (10 elements per cm) is used.
- A laminate multilayer board or chipboard is cut by a consumable with a reverse gear motion. The cut is obtained without small cracks or chips of wood.
- The filigree work is performed by a spiral blade for precise shaped cuttings, which does not get stuck and rotates well.
- The metal is sawed with a particularly strong blade with many (9-10 per cm) small teeth. The operating speed is low, but with certain skill it can cut a ten-millimeter steel plate or a thin tin sheet.
- PVC, polycarbonate or plexiglass board will be neatly shortened, without splitting the material, by cutting equipment with fine toothed elements.
Trimming sawing method
This method also involves using a circular saw, but a plunge-cut saw is more suitable. You will need a double ruler: it is fixed to the workpiece with clamps. The principle of operation is the same as that of a format-cutting machine: two cuts are made along the same line.
This is what the ruler-bus is used for. It is installed along the marking line, the laminate is lightly cut without disturbing its texture. Then the material is sawed along the marked trace.
By the way! Thanks to the cut on the laminate, no chips will form during the second deep cut.
The cut area can be sealed with an edge.
Using this method, you can cut the tabletop into one or more parts. Minimal chips are possible, but they can be easily removed by regular sanding or hidden with a decorative overlay.
Round cuts can also be masked.
Disadvantage: This method can only make straight cuts.
Beware - fake!
Modern manufacturers offer a huge range of replacement materials for power tools and mechanical jigsaws. The average cost for a set of products from well-known brands or new ones can differ tens of times.
It should be remembered that trusted companies value their reputation and monitor the quality of the consumables they produce. Large manufacturers offer a range for amateurs and professionals. But even budget options have excellent performance characteristics.
Care when purchasing will reduce the likelihood of making the mistake of choosing counterfeit files from well-known brands:
- a counterfeit blade made from low-quality raw materials may have chips, minor damage or traces of rust;
- clear edges of the blade are possible with high quality production; the rounded end part indicates a violation of the process during underground stamping;
- blurry, distorted inscriptions are easily erased;
- no branded packaging;
- low price compared to the original product.
The fake quickly wears out and breaks. A counterfeit accessory can damage the workpiece or cause injury to the craftsman. Therefore, how much the product costs is not decisive when choosing equipment.
Summary
In order to obtain a cut on the tabletop that is close in quality to a circular saw, in addition to good and correct files, a jigsaw is also important. The jigsaw should not have any play in the saw feed mechanism. The sole of the jigsaw should be smooth and geometrically correct.
The sides of the sole and the saw blade should be parallel, and the file should be perpendicular to the sole. Only in this case will it be possible to saw the tabletop along the guide. And without a guide, you won’t be able to make an even cut.
Well, don’t forget to change the files. Regular HCS steel files wear out quite quickly. And sawing a countertop with a dull saw is masochism.
Source
It all started with the fact that we waited for the keys in our apartment and moved. We brought the kitchen with us, because... the kitchen has moved with us for the 3rd time, and the kitchen is not expensive enough, this is clearly her last move. In previous apartments, the kitchen layout was different and a new countertop was installed each time, but they hired craftsmen, here I decided to find out where my hands come from and do everything myself.
I attached and measured the lengths.
I measured the joint line (I measured it this way, since the angle of the wall is not even, and the kitchen itself is at a right angle and otherwise it would be on the left (there would be a rather large gap near the refrigerator)
checked how the joint strip would fit
05 it is necessary to cut with a jigsaw from the “rough side” and cover the cut area from the “white side” with masking tape to minimize chipping of the lamination
06 stock up on blades, all this work took me one and a half packs (9 blades), the smaller the teeth, the less likely the lamination will chip
This one is only suitable for thin materials, 38 does not grip the tabletop well, you need a larger tooth and it must be inclined. The file is naturally from a normal manufacturer, so that it does not break like the TS, and let the file itself cool, because... gets very hot.
Regarding silicone, forget about this material as an adhesive and sealing joints in wet rooms, because... it rots over time. Use MS-polymer, it is not much more expensive than sealant, it can be used as glue.
07 the countertops are fitted, I’ll say right away that I attached them to the kitchen at the very end, because... I had to move them all the time to work
08 all sections were thickly coated with silicone
09 further marked the place of the cuts under the hob, drilled the corners (do not press on the drill, otherwise you will chip off a lot of excess) to turn the jigsaw and it is important to cut last the cut that is closer to the larger area of the tabletop canvas, otherwise the thin edges may not withstand the weight and break.
10 the edge fits well and relatively evenly, everything is coated with silicone
14 processing of the second part of the tabletop
15 Cut the thin side first
16 and here’s the most interesting thing, unfortunately I didn’t do the actual process of gluing the edges, but there you just put the iron on medium heat (synthetics), put on a glove (the side where there are no rubber pads), warm the edge and smooth it with a gloved hand. I spent almost the entire edge on this process, because... When processing corners (removing excess), chips resulted.
19 I removed the excess with a file like this, holding it almost parallel to the tabletop, with the sharp side, sharply cutting off the excess at an acute angle. then processing the edge corners with it. The micron-length rounding of the edge is (almost) cut off with a mounting knife (it is very important that the blade is new), and this is where I messed up the penultimate strip.
22 Use a wax chalk for laminate flooring, coat the corners several times and rub it all over with the same glove
23 laminate on the apron in action, start from the corner and it is important to understand that, unlike the floor, it is installed with glue and the seams are coated with silicone
24 solves the problem of hemming the end joints on a glued laminate with a cut of the “lock”, because It’s unlikely that someone will walk on it anyway, but it’s almost impossible to knock out the laminate that’s stuck to the glue; the coating on two boards just got knocked off
So I don’t argue, the jigsaw is fine, but the files are quite possibly crap, but that’s what it was. But the toad forbade me from buying a router for one-time work
I haven’t seen an aluminum profile for bending anywhere. In general, yes, this is my first experience and I simply didn’t know much.
It’s L-shaped, how can it be bent without consequences, so that it doesn’t go into waves?
This is the first time I see that the edge is processed with a file, usually with a sharp knife, and then, if necessary, sanded with fine sandpaper on a block. Laminate on the work surface, but isn’t it afraid of moisture?
TS IMHO the countertop for this color should be lighter! And greenery for the kitchen! ZY This is mine!
the color was chosen consciously, because... it fits perfectly with the “corner”
The baseboard is attached according to the principle of a plastic box; the base can be either glued or self-tapping screws
half induction, half not, we’ve had it for two years now and nothing has happened, it works properly
it’s just a fan, until the air conditioner is installed we can save ourselves with such a thing) Convenient in terms of space, it doesn’t take up almost any space.
and what kind of crap is this?
Bookmarked it. greens for instructions.
I always cut them with a regular circular saw. The shell closes the edges and ensures cutting accuracy evenly. and sometimes with a jigsaw too, when rounding is needed. just the Bosch file that was written about above.
| Quote |
| As far as I remember, the instructions for the laminate say not to wash, just wipe with a damp cloth |
I would be careful not to use cheap laminate on the backsplash. there is a normal one, you can even fill it with water and nothing will happen to it
He always uploads something cool, sometimes I watch it and like it)
Listen, brother, for what he himself did, he was definitely well done, I always respect those people who do it themselves and well. But sawing the countertop from the reverse side, and even with a jigsaw with 9 files? This is some kind of discovery. Firstly, there are files for finishing sawing chipboard (the photo was already posted somewhere above), you don’t need 9 of them, one is enough for you for a month of leisurely work. Secondly, you need to cut from the front side, the edge that is adjacent to the supporting surface of the jigsaw turns out to be exactly straight with good accuracy, the lower edge will have deviations from the straight plane in both directions, the duller the file and the higher the feed speed, the more crooked the edge and file will be will always bend towards the sharpest teeth. For cutting straight edges, it is better to use a circular saw. The edge will be absolutely perfect. In general, I only use a jigsaw where the surface is curved or I don’t care about accuracy. And so only a disk and a milling cutter.
Source
Top 5 Quality Universal Electric Jigsaw Kits
Recognized leaders in the production of saw blades have not changed since 2022. The high quality and product characteristics of popular models are checked daily on construction sites, furniture production and home repairs. The rating of universal configurations, based on customer opinions, will tell you which consumables are best to buy.
5th place. Stayer Station wagon 159488-Н5
Average price: 132 rubles.
The manufacturer produces a wide range of hand and power tools. In Russia since 1999. Many buyers recognize the quality and reliability of the product and vote for it with increasing demand.
Saw consumables are made from resistant carbon steel, which ensures flexibility and long service life; a special protective coating on the cutting edge allows you to maintain the sharpness of the blade.
Stayer Station wagon 159488-Н5
Advantages:
- main types of cutting: clean, fast, figured;
- processes chipboard, metal, wood, plywood, fiberboard;
- 5 pieces included;
- T-shank;
- budget brand.
Flaws:
- not found.
4th place. "DeWALT"DT 2294
Average price: 739 rubles.
The company's 90-year history is an example of the reliability of the designed equipment. Powerful, durable and precise power tools are complemented by high-performance accessories. Carbon and bimetallic types of steel are used for it. The recognizable yellow and black colors have become a symbol of Swiss quality.
"DeWALT"DT 2294
Advantages:
- for wood and metal blanks;
- 3 types of cuts: clean, fast, figured;
- universal tail section;
- 10 pieces included.
Flaws:
- high price;
- confusing markings.
3rd place. Set “Gross”78295
Average price: 738 rubles.
German quality has been repeatedly confirmed by numerous customers. The company produces tools for professional processing of all types of wood, fiberboard, chipboard, PVC up to 60 mm, laminate boards and high-quality blades for it. Durable steel cutting surfaces made of chrome and vanadium have a long service life. Wear-resistant, with increased hardness.
"Gross"78295
Advantages:
- perform basic types of cuts: rough, fast, clean;
- for metal and wooden surfaces;
- T-shaped European shank;
- 10 pieces per pack.
Flaws:
- high price.
2nd place. Set “Bosch” Mixed Wood and Metall 2609256746
Average price: 599 rubles.
occupies a strong place among the leaders in manufacturers of consumables for power tools. The widest range allows you to select both a single item and a specific set. Modern alloys extend the service life of the product.
The company has introduced its own labeling, which is also used by other manufacturers. Components are produced in Switzerland or the UK, the T-shank is compatible with power tools from Makita, Hitachi, AEG, Metabo, etc.
Set “Bosch” Mixed Wood and Metall 2609256746
Advantages:
- various files for metal, aluminum, several types of wood;
- information packaging;
- 10 pieces per set, 2 of each type;
- universal shank;
- average price category.
Flaws:
- one type of cut is fast.
1 place. Set “Makita” А-86899
Average price: 350 rubles.
A Japanese brand that produces power tools and high-quality equipment for work in professional fields and private use. Durable steel compounds make the files resistant to mechanical wear, bending and creases.
Set “Makita” А-86899
Advantages:
- for wood, metal, plastic;
- T-shank;
- type of cut: rough, clean, fast;
- 5 pieces per pack.
Flaws:
- unclear markings;
- high price.
Final stage
At the final stage, it is necessary to use another tool. To do this you will need a rasp or file, sandpaper, GOI posts, adhesive tape and a decorative corner made of duralumin.
The first step is to sand the wood. For this purpose, you can use a rasp or file, with which you want to remove excess. After this, use a sanding machine or regular sandpaper (zero grade will do) to bring the wood into a nice looking state. It is recommended to carry out this work even if you are not going to do anything after it. Due to the torn elements of the wood, the material will attract moisture much faster, which will cause faster wear of the material.
Having brought the tree back to normal, it is necessary to bring the plastic to the same condition. Usually, the use of special polishes is sufficient for this. But if one is not available, then you should not buy a new one, since to process one tabletop you will need very little of this product, and then it would be a pity to throw away the polish, and it is not economical.
The ideal option for processing plastic is GOI paste. It is available in almost every home, and is an absolutely universal remedy and quite effective.
Even if the cutting was successful and the grinding was of high quality, it is still better to play it safe so that even small millimeters do not make themselves felt in the future. Therefore, it is recommended to use a special furniture corner made of duralumin for decoration. It should be attached to its place, while the appearance will become neat.
Another little tip: when cutting a tabletop at home, you can use a guide tape with an adhesive layer, which will help the blade not deviate from the route.
Top 5 popular models of wood saws for electric jigsaws
5th place. PRACTICE 035-837
Average price: 180 rubles.
The young Russian company appeared in 2003, but already has its own audience of admirers. Consistently high quality of tools and consumables for them, an ever-expanding assortment allows us to quickly conquer the market.
For blade equipment for wooden workpieces, high-strength carbon steel is used, which is resistant to mechanical damage. An extensive range of sizes allows you to select a blade for workpieces of various thicknesses.
PRACTICE 035-837
Advantages:
- processes wood and plywood;
- type of cut: rough, fast;
- universal tail section.
Flaws:
- high price;
- 2 pieces included.
4th place. SMT JT234X-5
Average price: 711 rubles.
An Italian brand with a 40-year history produces cutting tools and accessories. Products are manufactured in Italy, Spain and the United States. The factories operate according to international standards, the process is controlled by the highest class operators.
High-hardness steels and alloys of Swiss and Luxembourg origin provide stable and high-strength characteristics of cutting surfaces. The orange proprietary coating increases service life in the harshest conditions.
SMT JT234X-5
Advantages:
- quantity in set: 5 pieces;
- universal shank;
- working length 90 mm.
Flaws:
- high price;
- only for wood processing;
- 1 type of cut: clean.
3rd place. VIRA T111C552025
Average price: 49 rubles.
The manufacturer produces hand tools and consumables in accordance with Russian GOST and DIM certification - a German quality standard.
The cutting blades are made of high-carbon tool steel. Resistant to breaks and bends, they have reliable strength and flexibility.
VIRA T111C552025
Advantages:
- processes wood, plastic and plywood;
- length 75 mm;
- T-shank;
- low cost.
Flaws:
- one type of cut - fast;
- There are 2 pieces in a set.
2nd place. BOSCH 2607011463h
Average price: 49 rubles.
Saw blades for different types of wood are made of HSC carbon steel. Milling or grinding the teeth allows you to make different cuts.
BOSCH 2607011463h
Dignity:
- several types of cutting: precise, fast;
- 15 pieces included;
- T-shank;
- The set includes saws for regular wood and hardwood;
- low cost.
Flaws:
- a large set for a small amount of work.
1 place. MAKITA A-85793
Average price: 310 rubles.
The Japanese company carefully monitors product quality. Manufacturing components from reinforced composites allows you to increase their service life. A blade with milled teeth can make several types of cuts. The flexibility and strength of the fabric prevents creases.
MAKITA A-85793
Advantages:
- two types of cutting - precise and fast;
- European type of shank;
- length 70 mm;
- set contains 5 pieces;
- low price.
Flaws:
- only for wood processing.
How to cut a tabletop?
Three pieces need to be made from one large canvas, these are three cuts of 60, one cut along the length of 1500 mm to reduce the overall width, and one cut at an angle. Naturally, everything should be smooth. What to cut all this with? Jigsaw asilit? Or will I have to look for a circular?
rohotaillo wrote: Three pieces need to be made from one large canvas, these are three cuts of 60, one cut along the length of 1500 mm to reduce the overall width, and one cut at an angle. Naturally, everything should be smooth. What to cut all this with? Jigsaw asilit? Or will I have to look for a circular?
It’s better to use a circular saw; you can’t cut it straight with a jigsaw, and you’ll waste a lot of time
rumble wrote: one cut along the length of 1500 mm
If this is the case, then it is better to order a cut at the place of purchase.
Solovushka wrote: If this is the cut, then it’s better to order the cut at the place of purchase.
They don't do this at the place of purchase. And already bought, I won’t trample a 50 kg board.
wrote loudly: Or will I have to look for a circular?
Recently I sawed Rebir with a circular saw, with a fine-toothed wood saw with TV tips (it was unreasonable to buy for laminate because of 1 cut), with the coating facing down naturally, the depth is 5 mm greater than the thickness of the tabletop - it turned out really well
drove the saw along the rail. jigsaw is a bummer, IMHO
hitman_II wrote: it’s better to use a circular saw; you can’t cut it off with a jigsaw, and you’ll waste a lot of time
and how will these three pieces be joined? With a connecting strip or will you edge them? If with a strip, then cut with a jigsaw. It will be easy to handle.
2 rumbled Then it’s clear. Can't you get a circular saw? Hmm then the cheapest is a hand hacksaw
But along, one and a half meters, you’ll get tired of course.
Two will be at the edges of the slab, with a metal edge, one aluminum joint, because the design will be the letter G and one will have a cut off corner, I will glue the edge with hot glue
I sawed a 38mm countertop (I cut it under the sink) with a jigsaw, sawed it naturally from the back side, sawed 30 centimeters, everything seemed straight, then when I looked at it from the front side I just oh. l: the file moved 1.5-2 centimeters from the given straight line. It’s good that I sawed with a reserve. Then I sawed with constant control of the perpendicularity of the file, but it still tried to cut it at an angle. The sawing also leads away along the edges, but you can’t even see it under the bar. So if the cuts are straight, it is best to use a circular saw.
Vovan. My fiolent has one, but very unpleasant feature. If you cut from left to right, the file moves quite noticeably, but if from right to left, the movement is about 1 mm. But damn! To hell with this millimeter, but who knows, if I cut in the right direction, it will start to take me away, so what? And does the circular drive go away at all? Provided that I always cut with a tightly screwed guide.
Vovan77 wrote: I sawed a 38mm countertop (I cut it under the sink) with a jigsaw, I sawed naturally from the back side, I sawed 30 centimeters, everything seemed straight, then when I looked at it from the front side I just oh. l: the file moved 1.5-2 centimeters from the given straight line. It’s good that I sawed with a reserve. Then I sawed with constant control of the perpendicularity of the file, but it still tried to cut it at an angle. The sawing also leads away along the edges, but you can’t even see it under the bar. So if the cuts are straight, it is best to use a circular saw.
But how do kitchen designers make cutouts for hobs? There’s no plus or minus a centimeter.
Pitbul wrote: how do kitchen installers make cutouts for hobs? There is no plus or minus a centimeter.
nvm77rus wrote: They just use normal jigsaws
Source
Top 5 popular models of files for hand tools
In modern realities, hand tools are used in amateur workshops or in children's kits for creating one-piece items from wood blanks. The most popular consumables are saws for different types of wood.
5th place. HOBBI
Average price: 214 rubles.
Products of the ORMIS company, which is dynamically developing in the markets of Russia and Kazakhstan. Equipment made from high-quality materials complies with international DIM standardization. Passes a mandatory quality control system.
HOBBI files
Advantages:
- stable and durable bimetallic composition;
- increased flexibility;
- for wood;
- 10 pieces per pack;
- low price.
Flaws:
- No.
4th place. FIT set 130 mm
Average price: 218 rubles.
The Canadian manufacturer produces mechanical and electrical tools and the necessary components. All products comply with American and European standards. Modern technologies and high-quality tool type alloy make the products reliable and in demand.
FIT set 130 mm
Advantages:
- long service life;
- 20 pieces per pack;
- low cost.
Flaws:
- not found.
3rd place. DREMEL 2615MS50JA
Average price: 420 rubles.
The company has been manufacturing universal tools for 95 years. High-precision equipment for a whole range of operations is very compact, light in weight and has excellent performance.
Wood saw blades are made from durable composites and can process plastic, laminate, fiberboard, and chipboard. Form a long cut.
DREMEL 2615MS50JA
Advantages:
- high-quality consumable material;
- wide range of processing types;
- long-term operation;
- resistance to bending and breaks;
- 5 pieces per set.
Flaws:
- high price.
2nd place. PEBARO set
Average price: 149 rubles.
Since 2000, the German company has been one of the best in the production of tools and components for hobbies and children's creativity. The company's products are highly reliable, durable and safe to use.
PEBARO set
Dignity:
- Made from high quality steel composite;
- for plastic and wood;
- 12 pieces per pack;
- low cost.
Flaws:
- No.
1 place. ROS135 mm
Average price: 169 rubles.
Buyers appreciate the company’s wide and constantly expanding range of products, and high Russian quality at affordable prices.
The equipment is manufactured with high tensile strength for extended service life. Special sharpening of the teeth ensures precision in operation and high speed.
ROS135 mm
Advantages:
- heavy-duty blade structure;
- precision sharpening of the working surface;
- 50 pieces per pack;
Flaws:
- No.
Summing up
If you are faced with the issue of cutting a table top, then do not be afraid, since it is quite possible to do it yourself. If possible, then it is better, of course, to use the services of specialists and take the material for processing to a workshop, where all work will be carried out using special equipment and with particularly high quality.
When sawing a tabletop at home, to avoid chipping, use a suitable tool - a jigsaw, adhering to maximum precision and accuracy when working with the workpiece.
How to choose the best and most reliable jigsaw blades?
A review of popular brand models allows you to find the best option for your wallet and the amount of work to be done.
Simple recommendations and convenient markings will help you make the right choice. Retail stores and many specialized online construction sites will help you decide where to buy cutting consumables. Study reviews from real customers, compare products by price and order jigsaw accessories online from the online store.
Very often, abandoning cheap counterfeit products in favor of branded products pays off. Additional costs when purchasing consumables will be paid off by the high quality of the cut, the absence of additional processing, the speed of the process and the absence of injuries during the work.
Figure cutting
Curvilinear surfaces of this configuration are even more difficult to obtain at home; however, you will have to spend additional money on purchasing a router that will help you get rid of chips and nicks formed when you cut chipboard.
The cost of a manual router can vary significantly, depending on the manufacturer, power, and the presence of additional functions. If you do not plan to create masterful furniture, then purposefully purchase an inexpensive model.
To cut chipboard you need to follow these steps:
- Having marked the contours of the desired part on a sheet of chipboard, we cut it out with a jigsaw, trying to cut just a couple of mm away from the intended cutting line;
- we make templates of the design radius from fiberboard or plywood and painstakingly sand the ends with sandpaper;
- Having attached the template to the part to be finished, clamp it with clamps and process it with a hand-held copying cutter with a bearing, removing excess material exactly to the intended mowing line.
With all this, it is indifferent which cutter (with 2 or 4 knives is used). The only condition is that the knives must cover the entire thickness of the cut being processed. After processing, all that remains is to glue the edge to the part. How this is done - look at
Installation of sink and connection of communications
A drain is installed to the bowl and, if provided for by the design, a mixer (water tap). All gaskets are installed in the appropriate sequence. Typically, the layout of the gaskets is indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging of the mixer and drain siphon. Threaded connections can be easily tightened with wrenches or, if necessary, with an adjustable wrench.
When purchasing kitchen furniture with such a surface, it is better to have a ready-made product that will only require connections to the water supply and sewerage system.
If the structure on which installation is planned does not have holes for water supply and drainage, they should be cut out. They are done in the same way as for washing. It is drilled with a drill and a suitable clearance is cut out with an electric jigsaw. You can use a drill with a special drill - a furniture crown, just immediately take such a drill of the required diameter.
For this, the sink is used as a template.
The sink is covered with a sealing tape supplied with the product. A small gap is left from the edge, which is then filled with sealant. Fastenings are being installed.
Some manufacturers and manufacturers of sinks include a template with the product itself.
Reapply the sealant to the contact points and let it dry briefly, 2-3 minutes. Place the product in place and tighten the fasteners. Secure the tabletop together with it in its own place and connect the water hoses. Connect the drain. Go over the joints again with sealant; excess must be removed.
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Before cutting a hole in the countertop for the sink, mark the required hole.
