Ural chainsaws have been known for more than half a century: their production began in 1955 at the Perm plant, which for many years worked for the country's military-industrial complex. Until now, their popularity has not faded: demand still remains high despite the abundance of new foreign brands. Some people do not want to overpay: purchasing a Ural chainsaw is more budget-friendly than similar devices from leading European manufacturers. The same applies to their maintenance and repairs, which help save the family budget.
But the majority of users of these chainsaws value traditional quality, which has been tested over decades of service by more than one generation of people.
We will get acquainted with the features of the legendary saws of this manufacturer, their structure and functionality, as well as the nuances of maintenance and repair in this article.
Chainsaw "Ural" 2t Electron
Gasoline hand tools, which are designed specifically for harsh working conditions and tasks of increased complexity.
The design of the Ural 2t Electron chainsaw is quite simple. The main working parts are:
- engine;
- starter;
- gearbox;
- switch;
- cutting set;
- gas tank
There is also a steering wheel and an element on which the structure can be supported.
Technical features of the Ural 2t Electron chainsaw
- 2-stroke engine that consumes 632 ml of fuel per hour of operation;
- high power – 3.68 kW;
- 46 cm tire with removable chain;
- heavy weight - 11.7 kg.
Structural components
All two-stroke gasoline engines have a similar operating principle, and therefore the ignition system in them has a standard structure and design.
Chainsaw ignition device:
- Magneto: a device that converts mechanical energy into electrical energy and provides a pulse of current to the chainsaw's spark plug;
- Spark plug: designed to ignite the fuel-air mixture through a discharge that occurs between the electrodes;
- Electrical cable;
- Engine shutdown button.
Plugs come in spark, arc, glow and catalytic types. Chainsaws use spark plugs for 2-stroke engines. The schematic diagram of the chainsaw ignition is shown in the image.
Chainsaw ignition circuit
Basic malfunctions of the ignition system of chainsaws
Having roughly understood how the ignition system of Chinese or domestic chainsaws works, you can already figure out what problems there may be with this mechanism and how to fix them.
Spark plug
Most often, breakdown occurs due to the spark plug. It is worth checking whether the insulator is damaged and whether the electrode is worn out. The entire spark plug is checked for integrity and absence of defects - this includes the integrity of the wires from the coil, the presence of insulating material, etc.
High voltage wire
Next, check the spark plug wires. Often they can run in such a way that there are many bends. In those places the wire can be damaged, while outwardly looking perfect. Next, inspect the spark plug cap and ignition wire. There should be no brown coating on it. If there is one, this means that the spark does not shoot in the right place, but in all parts near the ceramic insulator. The cap may also have damage - cracks, chips. The check must be carried out carefully, because a damaged insulating layer can result in an electric shock.
On/off button
A frequent breakdown of the ignition system is a malfunction of the shutdown switch. To check it, the wires are disconnected from the module and the functionality of the saw is checked. If there is a spark, the problem is in the switch.
Problems with ignition modules (coils) of chainsaws
Husqvarna chainsaw ignition coil
The switch and the ignition module that regulates its operation can often fail. The coil may also be faulty. If all elements of the ignition system are in working order, but there is no spark, the module and coil are suspected. And the problem with the malfunction of these elements is that you cannot repair the module or fix part of the coil - they need to be replaced. Of course, if possible, it is better to install the module from some old saw and understand whether this is the problem. After all, you can simply make a mistake at some stage and suspect what actually works.
You should not trust all kinds of testers - they often show false information about the serviceability of the ignition system. Only diagnostics with another module or coil will be reliable.
If the electronic module is bad, the following sign is observed: as soon as the chainsaw heats up, a very weak spark is given. Also, after refueling, the unit may not start. This is observed due to the fact that the coil or module gets very hot, their resistance increases, so the spark weakens.
If there are breakdowns in the ignition system, and there is no experience in repairing them, you should not try to repair everything yourself. Basic things, such as checking the integrity of a spark plug or wires, can be carried out at home, but more complex diagnostics, and even more so the replacement of units, should be carried out by professionals. And then you can be confident in the quality of the work performed.
"Ural" BP-3650
Productive model with improved functionality. The inertia brake of the chain and its stroke in auto mode simplifies the operator’s tasks when servicing the tool.
Operating parameters of BP-3650:
- motor thrust – 3.9 kW;
- capacious gas tank – 0.55 l;
- volumetric oil sump – 265 ml;
- maximum tire length – 0.45 m.
How to adjust the device - saw operating instructions
Before you start working with a new chainsaw, it is necessary to carry out a number of activities, namely:
Depreservation should be carried out as follows:
- wipe the lubricant dry with a cloth soaked in a gasoline solution from the external working surfaces of the engine, gearbox and the saw itself;
- take out the candle and rinse it thoroughly in gasoline, dry it and install it in its place;
- Take a clean cloth and wipe the surface of the ignition wire.
BP-3800
A fairly compact and lightweight chainsaw. A decent semi-professional unit, adapted for medium loads.
It differs from other modifications:
- thrust of 3.8 kW;
- volumetric tanks for fuel and chain oil - 0.62 and 0.25 l;
- standard chain pitch – 3/8;
- long tire – 35-45 cm;
- light weight - 6.89 kg.
Main types of breakdowns and methods for eliminating them
Before starting work on diagnosing faults and eliminating them, you must prepare the necessary tools.
Due to the fact that a chainsaw is a relatively simple unit, the list of accessories includes the following items:
Multifunctional tool
In order to qualitatively eliminate any breakdowns that occur and restore operational performance, it is necessary to determine as accurately as possible the malfunction that preceded the failure of the unit. Based on the fact that the chainsaw is equipped with an internal combustion engine (ICE), the main causes of breakdowns should first of all be looked for in the power unit.
The most common faults when repairing a Shtil 180 chainsaw include:
- the engine does not start;
- the engine runs intermittently, and when running for a short time, the chainsaw spontaneously stalls;
- oil leaks near the chain lubrication mechanism;
- the engine does not develop full power.
Frequent breakdowns of the transmission part of the saw include rupture of chain links. You can independently restore its integrity by riveting the links or replacing them with a new one.
Despite the relative simplicity of the design and the absence of complex mechanisms, experts recommend troubleshooting in a certain order. First of all, the presence of the mixture in the fuel tank is checked, and if everything is in order with the liquid level, you need to proceed to inspect the chainsaw starting unit. If this mechanism is also in normal condition, you need to check the functionality of the spark plug.
After performing the manipulations to diagnose the spark plug (determining the presence or absence of carbon deposits, the correct gap between the electrodes, the condition of the o-ring), we turn our attention to the carburetor. Due to small sawdust, dust and soil particles, the fuel system often becomes clogged.
"Profi" UBP-3900
Gasoline tool of professional power class. It has an improved clutch, chain brake and power button locking function.
Specifications:
- Power – 3.9 kW;
- Gas tank – 0.54 l;
- Lubrication sump – 270 ml;
- Tire – up to 450 mm;
- Weight – 7.9 kg.
Users note that this model of Ural chainsaw breaks down less often than others and requires repair.
How to refill the Ural chainsaw?
A 2-stroke engine is a capricious thing that requires not only gasoline, but also lubrication.
According to the manufacturer’s recommendations, fuel with an octane rating of 76 and 80 is suitable for Ural chain saws. Unfortunately, you won’t find them at responsible gas stations for a long time. Another question arises: is it possible to fill a Ural chainsaw with 92 gasoline, like most modern power tools? It is possible, but you should be more careful about adjusting the carburetor and ignition, which, like the engine, will begin to wear out faster. Resourceful people have long figured out how to convert their outdated Uralov models to 92 gasoline. To do this, you need to lower the octane number of AI-92 or AI-95 gasoline by adding 70 g of diesel fuel to one tank of the fuel mixture. The engine practically does not feel the difference with this additive and operates in normal mode.
The proportions for the gasoline oil mixture should be as follows: 50 ml of motor oil (preferably not for mopeds) per 1 liter of gasoline.
Owner reviews
Vladislav, Omsk:
The Electron saw from Ural has been in our family for 10 years. It works without interruption! I can note that it is difficult to find a better and cooler tool for felling wood, and, both in the union and now, it has no equal. Well, unless you can look for some analogue from professional German or American models with an exorbitant price.
Advantages: powerful, works great in severe frost, cuts any wood, does not get bogged down in the material, copes well with dense fibrous wood and damp boards.
Disadvantages: hands get tired when working for a long time. A saw that weighs more than 11 kg cannot, by definition, be very comfortable. But you have to put up with something to get results.
How to properly break in a new Ural chainsaw?
To reduce friction between parts, all new chainsaws go through a break-in stage - alternating idle operation with low and medium load. It must be remembered that:
- the proportion for the running mixture is 15:1, i.e. the amount of lubricant increases;
- the first 25 hours of running-in should begin with idle speed, which is gradually replaced by minimum and average operating speeds;
- this process ends after 4 full tanks of fuel mixture have been consumed.
For successful operation, it is necessary to configure the tool - adjust the idle speed and ignition system so that it delivers the power built into it, works economically and breaks down less often.
Safety precautions
Important aspects specified in safety regulations cannot be neglected. Here's what is strictly prohibited when working with a gas-powered saw:
- Work without special clothing, safety glasses and gloves;
- Winding the cable around your hand;
- Touching the starting circuit with any foreign objects;
- Transitions made through a moving chain;
- Inaccurate oil filling and spillage of fuel into work areas;
- If the saw needs to be moved over a long distance, then its cutting part should be covered with a special cover. Otherwise, movement will be unsafe.
Protective gloves for working with chainsaws
It is also important to remember that by adhering to safety rules for working with a chainsaw, you can quickly and efficiently trim large trees, saw logs and prepare firewood for the winter.
Adjusting the carburetor of Ural chainsaws
Before leaving the factory, all chainsaws receive factory settings, which are retained for a certain time. After purchasing new equipment, the question of how to adjust the carburetor on a Ural chainsaw becomes central. Do not rush to reconfigure the carburetor after purchase: let the saw run for several hours at low speeds. Gradually adjusting the jet clockwise, switch to high speeds, during which the saw should not buzz or smoke much. If this happens, tighten the screw: the fuel mixture will become leaner. By following this adjustment principle, the saw can always be adapted to any load.
Fig.6
The modified control coil is put in place, and a bracket with a carrier is installed under it and both parts are tightened with standard screws and nuts. After this, the magneto is put in place ( photo 8 ).
Springs are installed on M4x35 screws, placing washers under them on both sides. The landing spots of the washers on the magneto are lubricated with thick lubricant. The screws are screwed in instead of the magneto mounting studs and the magneto is pressed to the crankcase through springs.
A rod is made from a steel bar d4 mm. Ears made of 2 mm thick sheet steel are soldered to the rod ( Fig. 7 ).
Chainsaws "Ural": malfunctions and repairs
Any tool breaks. And that's a fact. As practice shows, modern foreign chainsaws suffer from breakdowns no less often than domestic gas-powered tools.
Among the typical breakdowns of Ural chainsaws, the most common are faults with motors. They may not turn on, have poor idle speed, stall under load, or not turn off at all.
There may be several explanations for the fact that the Ural chainsaw does not start:
- lack of fuel, its low quality or incorrect proportion of preparation;
- malfunctions with the fuel system: once the gas tank or fuel supply pipes are sealed, which, on top of everything else, also become littered;
- faulty spark plug or flywheel - as a result, there is no spark required to ignite the fuel;
- a dirty air filter through which air, and therefore oxygen, does not pass to start the combustion process;
If the chain saw starts and stalls, the cause should be looked for in the carburetor. It is necessary to adjust its jets so that fuel and oxygen are supplied according to the load that is expected from it.
The situation when the engine heats up and stalls is also familiar to many users of Ural gas powered tools. Replacing the spark plug, oil, cleaning the air filter or replacing the piston can help fix it.
A working motor should run smoothly without jerking. The ringing knock of the engine when idling Ural chainsaws is a reason to pay attention to the cylinder. It could be damaged and need replacing.
Fig.12
The pads are secured to the drive clutch in pairs, diametrically opposite, using the grooves in which the friction shoes were previously attached ( photo 13 ).
The driven clutch is seated in such a way that the short solid blocks fit into the holes, and the jumpers between the holes fit into the grooves of the long blocks. In this case, it is necessary to maintain the alignment of both couplings. If it was not possible to articulate the coupling halves right away, the pads are removed and the ends of the pads are modified using a file so that when the coupling halves are articulated, a small gap remains between the body of the driven coupling half and the pads - 0.2-0.3 mm. 2Final modification of the ends of the pads is carried out after both coupling halves are seated in their standard places and the gearbox is seated on the engine crankcase.
It should be noted that chainsaws of this type of later releases than mine have three holes on the driven coupling half (on mine there are six). Accordingly, the number of pads and their configuration must be different.
UPGRADES OF POWER TAKE-OFF UNIT
For power take-off, a standard power take-off shaft from the gearbox is used. The drive sprocket is removed from the shaft and, using a chisel and hammer, the rivets are cut and the cheeks are removed. The teeth are ground on a lathe until a continuous cylindrical surface is formed. Depending on how the power will be selected (by a chain, a V-belt, a finger clutch), the required part is coaxially welded to the “sprocket” processed in this way - the sprocket, pulley, drive coupling half and the entire assembly is attached to the gearbox shaft. Photo 14 shows the fastening of a double-groove pulley.
Another option is possible - aggregate mounting of the load on a special faceplate mounted on the gearbox housing (for example, mounting a water pump or electric generator). In this case, power take-off is carried out using an adapter sleeve, also welded to the machined sprocket.
EXHAUST SYSTEM UPGRADES
When using an engine on a boat or boat, the exhaust system is also modified. The standard muffler is dismantled and an injector is installed instead - this is the so-called “wet exhaust”. A landing pad is made from heat-resistant steel, which is attached to the cylinder with bolts or studs instead of the removed muffler. An exhaust pipe is welded to the landing pad (pipes from a moped or motorcycle can be used) with a downward slope away from the cylinder. On an inclined section, a steel tube d10-12 mm made of stainless steel is welded into the pipe. This tube is installed as shown in Fig. 13 .
What can be made from a Ural chainsaw?
It is difficult to find someone who has never tried to make useful homemade products with their own hands from a Ural chainsaw. Their diversity is amazing and gives a chance to once again be convinced of the ingenuity of folk craftsmen. Let's consider the main ones:
- sawmill - is made on the basis of a metal frame with a guide along which the chainsaw moves. A homemade sawmill is the simplest homemade product, the creation of which does not require expensive spare parts;
- motor drill - consists of a chainsaw motor and a gearbox that reduces its speed. Useful for lovers of winter fishing, construction and outdoor installation work;
- outboard motor is a homemade device for small-sized boats. It is assembled from a motor, gearbox, shaft, and screw that receives torque from the chainsaw engine. Allows you to reach speeds of up to 16 km/h with relatively low fuel consumption;
- moped from a chainsaw - a bicycle is taken as a basis, which is aggregated by a chainsaw motor. The gear transmission helps transmit speed to the gearbox, which is necessary for easier control of the vehicle;
- tricycle made from a chainsaw "Ural" - a small-sized 3-wheeled vehicle with a welded base. Wheels are attached to the metal body, like on a children's tricycle. The steering and chain drive are what you'll have to tinker with;
- a snowmobile is a unit that is a motorized sled. It has a complex design: in addition to the engine and gas tank, the clutch, transmission, gas switch must be thought out, and the turning of the skis or tracks must be ensured.
There are quite a lot of accessories for the Ural chainsaw. This suggests that the possibilities of using this tool can only be limited by human imagination.
Fig.2
Use two MZx10 screws to tighten it to the console so that the screw heads are on the inside of the console. Using two standard M4 screws, the console is secured to the carburetor body. An M4 screw (stud) 62 mm long with a pre-screwed lock nut is screwed into the M4 threaded hole of the uterus ( photo 2 ).
At the end of the pin facing downwards, select a slot for a screwdriver. Drive the screw all the way into the bent flag on the throttle valve axis. Tighten the screw enough so that the damper opens slightly. Do not tighten the locknut yet. The final adjustment of the idle speed on the assembled, warm engine is carried out according to the instructions. But now, instead of adjusting the speed with the standard control lever, the speed is adjusted with a new adjusting screw. The throttle cable and shifter for setting constant speeds are used from motorcycles. In some cases, the shifter is replaced with a throttle handle (also from a motorcycle) if it is necessary to automatically reset the speed when releasing the handle in emergency situations. A new cable tip is made from brass or steel wire rod in the form of a cylinder d4.5 mm for the throttle valve lever (flag). Using a 2 mm drill, make a hole in the cylinder on the side in the middle. The cylinder is put on the end of the cable and soldered. The throttle valve control unit assembly is shown in Fig. 3 .
