Timely ignition of fuel in the internal combustion chamber underlies the operation of any gasoline engine, and a system of several components is responsible for ignition. A high-voltage pulse is formed during the coordinated interaction of all ignition elements and even their minimal defect has a negative effect on the functioning of the tool. In this article you will learn how the ignition system of modern chainsaws works, what to do if it breaks down, where to look and how to troubleshoot problems. Step-by-step photo instructions and visual videos are included.
Problems with chainsaw ignition modules
Ignition modules and coils sometimes fail.
When everything else is checked, suspicion is on them. When they fail, one of two things usually happens. The obvious symptom is no spark. The only thing you can do is replace the module with a new one - or better yet, try changing it from the saw you are using. If a spark does not appear after replacing the modules, you must have missed something. Replacing the module is the only reliable way to check for spark. All kinds of testers, as practice shows, are untruthful. The only reliable test is to replace the coil. Another symptom that indicates a bad electronic module or coil is a spark that becomes weak when the saw gets hot. If the saw does not start after refueling, it is likely that the heat from the engine has eliminated the spark. A weak ignition coil can sometimes produce enough spark to keep the saw running until it warms up properly. When the saw and coil heat up accordingly, the resistance of the transistor increases and the spark becomes weak. Symptoms: the saw starts and works well in the shop, for example, but at work the saw dies and does not start and will not cool down. It can be difficult for a store to prove this malfunction.
This is a load simulator used to diagnose saw engines with ignition systems that have heating problems. This is an adjustable air brake system, the motor thinks it is cutting wood. With this tool, we can heat the saw motor to operating temperature in a very short time. Because the load is constant and adjustable, the motor can be easily monitored for misfires or other operating defects that would be difficult to observe when sawing wood.
It also makes sense under these conditions, when it won’t start after overheating, to try unscrewing and tightening the tank cap - releasing the accumulated fuel gases. If the saw starts to start after this, think about it yourself.
Structural components
All two-stroke gasoline engines have a similar operating principle, and therefore the ignition system in them has a standard structure and design.
Chainsaw ignition device:
- Magneto: a device that converts mechanical energy into electrical energy and provides a pulse of current to the chainsaw's spark plug;
- Spark plug: designed to ignite the fuel-air mixture through a discharge that occurs between the electrodes;
- Electrical cable;
- Engine shutdown button.
Plugs come in spark, arc, glow and catalytic types. Chainsaws use spark plugs for 2-stroke engines. The schematic diagram of the chainsaw ignition is shown in the image.
Chainsaw ignition circuit
Basic malfunctions of the ignition system of chainsaws
Having roughly understood how the ignition system of Chinese or domestic chainsaws works, you can already figure out what problems there may be with this mechanism and how to fix them.
Spark plug
Most often, breakdown occurs due to the spark plug. It is worth checking whether the insulator is damaged and whether the electrode is worn out. The entire spark plug is checked for integrity and absence of defects - this includes the integrity of the wires from the coil, the presence of insulating material, etc.
High voltage wire
Next, check the spark plug wires. Often they can run in such a way that there are many bends. In those places the wire can be damaged, while outwardly looking perfect. Next, inspect the spark plug cap and ignition wire. There should be no brown coating on it. If there is one, this means that the spark does not shoot in the right place, but in all parts near the ceramic insulator. The cap may also have damage - cracks, chips. The check must be carried out carefully, because a damaged insulating layer can result in an electric shock.
On/off button
A frequent breakdown of the ignition system is a malfunction of the shutdown switch. To check it, the wires are disconnected from the module and the functionality of the saw is checked. If there is a spark, the problem is in the switch.
Problems with ignition modules (coils) of chainsaws
Husqvarna chainsaw ignition coil
The switch and the ignition module that regulates its operation can often fail. The coil may also be faulty. If all elements of the ignition system are in working order, but there is no spark, the module and coil are suspected. And the problem with the malfunction of these elements is that you cannot repair the module or fix part of the coil - they need to be replaced. Of course, if possible, it is better to install the module from some old saw and understand whether this is the problem. After all, you can simply make a mistake at some stage and suspect what actually works.
You should not trust all kinds of testers - they often show false information about the serviceability of the ignition system. Only diagnostics with another module or coil will be reliable.
If the electronic module is bad, the following sign is observed: as soon as the chainsaw heats up, a very weak spark is given. Also, after refueling, the unit may not start. This is observed due to the fact that the coil or module gets very hot, their resistance increases, so the spark weakens.
If there are breakdowns in the ignition system, and there is no experience in repairing them, you should not try to repair everything yourself. Basic things, such as checking the integrity of a spark plug or wires, can be carried out at home, but more complex diagnostics, and even more so the replacement of units, should be carried out by professionals. And then you can be confident in the quality of the work performed.
Testing by measuring resistance
You can check the ignition coil in another way. For this, you can use resistance as a test characteristic. During the test, the resistance on both windings is measured.
Tools and materials
The test can be performed with a special device: an ohmmeter or a multimeter. The device must be able to adjust the range of readings.
Testing Tools
Procedure
Checking the ignition coil with a tester makes it possible to accurately determine that interruptions in engine operation are associated with its malfunction. To carry out the test, the device must be removed from the car.
Before performing the test, you need to find out what the nominal resistance should be. The rated resistance values for the primary and secondary windings of modules that are installed on machines may differ. Therefore, you should determine how much they should be for a specific device. Before testing, you should check the resistance of the measuring device by shorting its probes.
Testing with a tester consists of the following steps:
- First you need to check the primary winding. In this case, the probes of the device must be connected to its terminals, which are most often located on the central terminal on the sides. Having measured the resistance with the device, you need to subtract the resistance of the tester from this value. The obtained result is compared with the nominal value. If there are any deviations, this means that the module is faulty.
- The next step is to check the secondary winding. In this case, one probe of the device is connected to the side terminal, and the second to the central terminal. The resulting value must again be compared with the nominal value.
There are features when checking resistance with a tester for individual and dual modules. You can measure the resistance of the secondary winding of a double coil at any terminal. Its design is such that one pulse is applied to the terminals. It should be taken into account that for engines with four cylinders a block can be installed that consists of two such modules. Therefore, it is advisable to check the resistance at all central terminals.
When an individual module is checked using a tester, during testing the probes are connected to the terminals located on the sides, in the place where the chip with wires is connected.
You need to be especially careful when testing the secondary winding so as not to reverse the polarity. In multimeters, the probes are painted in different colors. One is red and the other is black. When checking the secondary winding, the red probe is connected to the tip rod placed on the spark plug, and the black probe is connected to the central terminal on the chip.
Testing the module with a multimeter
A more accurate diagnosis of the ignition coil is carried out using special equipment, for example, an oscilloscope. But at home, checking using the two methods described above is sufficient. If it turns out that the coil is faulty, it is replaced with a new one.
Timely diagnosis is one of the chances of saving parts
As practice shows, it is easier to eliminate a problem at the stage of its development than when the equipment has completely stopped working.
To do this, it is necessary to inspect all parts and assemblies in a timely manner, and not only visually. Its worthy replacement is the hardware method, which has become popular recently. Testers were able to combine different instruments for measuring voltage, resistance and current. But before you check the ignition coil of a chainsaw with a multimeter, it is worth reading the instructions for the chainsaw in detail in order to have initial information regarding its normal technical parameters, with which the values obtained on the tester will be compared.
The check sequence is as follows:
- Check the primary winding (zero resistance means problems with the coil, and “∞” means a wire break);
- The secondary winding is examined by connecting the scanner to a high-voltage wire and a contact with a “+” sign.
As you can see, although the ignition system is considered one of the most capricious in any gasoline-powered equipment, everyone can understand it.
Installing electric chips on new chainsaws that regulate this process without human intervention allows you to avoid many issues. However, they are practically impossible to repair, like the ignition on older models.
Multimeter for checking the ignition coil
Tools and materials
To carry out a spark test, you do not need special equipment; it is enough to prepare the following tools and materials:
- spark plug key;
- pliers;
- a working spark plug.
You can't do without this tool. In addition, it is advisable to have an assistant on hand.
Procedure
During the test you need to get a spark. To do this you need to follow these steps:
- Before the test, you need to turn the ignition key to position “0” to avoid electric shock. Then you need to check all connections, including those on the coil and spark plugs, that is, ring the entire electrical circuit.
- Next, you need to remove the tip from the spark plug on the 1st cylinder and connect it to a working spark plug.
- Then you need to use pliers to take the tip and massage the candle. Massaging the spark plug
In this case, the candle skirt should be pressed against a metal surface that does not have any coating in the form of paint or other material. The motor can be used for massaging.
An assistant must turn the ignition key to the start position to turn the crankshaft a few revolutions using the starter. At this moment the coil will receive voltage and start working. At the same time, it will produce high-voltage pulses, manifested in the form of a spark jumping between the contacts of the spark plug. A bright purple spark indicates the device is working properly. A weak orange spark indicates a possible problem with either the coil or the wiring. If there is no spark, then the module may be faulty or there may be an open circuit in the wiring.
If there is no spark plug that is known to be in good condition, you can unscrew the spark plug from the engine. This can be done using a spark plug wrench and follow the steps described above. But in this case, the spark plug used may be faulty, so you will need to carry out a test with several spark plugs, also changing the tip. This will increase the likelihood that the problem is in the coil.
If individual modules are installed on the engine, to check it is enough to swap them. For example, a module from the second cylinder is placed on the first, and from the first - on the second. Only the modules need to be swapped, leaving the wiring in the cylinder.
Replacing oil seals
How to repair a Shtil 180 chainsaw if the seals need to be replaced? It is necessary to disassemble the engine, which will first require removing it from the chainsaw. Removal is carried out according to the algorithm described in the paragraph: “The control key of the Shtil 180 chainsaw is broken - how to fix it.”
After the engine is removed, the 4 screws securing the engine pan are unscrewed, after which it is removed. Thus, by removing the pan, we gain access to the seals and bearings of the crankshaft.
An important point when replacing oil seals is to reinstall and seal the pan.
To carry it out efficiently, it is necessary to clean and degrease the pallet and its installation location on the saw cylinder, and then coat it with sealant and install the pallet, tightening it crosswise to the required force.
Reassembling the chainsaw after repair is carried out in the reverse order.
How the chainsaw ignition works and how it works
The design of a carburetor engine does not depend on the model of the tool. Therefore, we can talk about a standard chainsaw ignition system. It consists of the following elements:
- Magneto. Is an alternating current generator. Necessary to supply the spark plug with electric current. Externally, this part looks like a stationary winding of an inductor and a permanent magnet, which is fixed on the flywheel. The latter rotates simultaneously with the engine crankshaft.
- Spark plug.
- An electrical cable that connects the 2 previous elements.
- Buttons to turn off the device.
The chainsaw ignition circuit is simple. After the tool starts, a rotating magnetic field is formed due to the movement of the flywheel and crankshaft. It creates a moving force in the existing winding, which is transformed into voltage. This potential is enough to form a spark.
The only difference between different chainsaw models may be whether a contact or non-contact magneto is used. In the first case, one winding lead goes to the spark plug, and the second goes first to the shutdown button, and then through it to the ground. In the second case, the device contains a capacitor, which, when discharged, generates a current.
DIY assembly
- We remove the entire winding from the old magneto coil;
- We wind a wire used for winding transformers on a coil with a diameter of 0.8 mm. We count 250 turns;
- After each layer we lay paper or varnished cloth. This is necessary for insulation;
- We solder the beginning of the winding to the core, and connect the end to the ignition breaker;
- Cover the coil with insulating tape. We leave the capacitor circuit as is;
- We draw conclusions with two mounting wires through the seal (you can use a piece of rubber hose);
- We install the ignition coil, which will serve as a transformer. For these purposes, coils from Volga, Zhiguli and other cars are best suited. You should not use ignition coils from motorcycles and mopeds, they give a weak spark. We remove the resistor from the coil, fasten the part with a clamp to the chainsaw frame;
- We fasten the wires coming from the “snail”. We connect the wire coming from the capacitor to the “VK” terminal of the ignition coil, the second, coming from the ground through the magneto, also to the ignition coil, but on the other side (there is no “VK” designation in this place). For convenience, we use multi-colored wires;
- We connect the ignition coil to the spark plug using a high-voltage wire.
Our ignition system is ready!
Modern chainsaws, thanks to the contactless ignition system, have become more practical and convenient to use. These coils require virtually no maintenance; the only thing needed is control and correct gap setting. The life of the saw depends on how it is installed. Use our tips to extend the life of your tool!
(2 ratings, average 4.5 out of 5)
Causes of problems
When the chainsaw does not start the first time, it is recommended to inspect the wires that are connected to the coil. So you can find:
Important! Damage to the internal insulation cannot be identified upon inspection. If during the initial assessment of the coil everything is in order, you need to look for the cause of the breakdown in the toggle switch (you need to disconnect the module from the wires)
Don't know how to check the ignition on a chainsaw? To start:
If everything is in order during the initial assessment of the coil, you need to look for the cause of the breakdown in the toggle switch (you need to disconnect the module from the wires). Don't know how to check the ignition on a chainsaw? To start:
- assess the condition of the electrode (it may fail due to wear), check the integrity of the ceramic insulator;
- inspect the removable valve, which should fit tightly (it is not removable in all models);
- a brown coating on the ceramics of the winding indicates a wandering spark;
- look for a crack in the spark plug (sometimes the cap cracks).
Carefully inspect the coil for traces of fuel. The spark plug must be dry (any traces of deposits present must be light in color). If you find excess fuel, the problem may be in the carburetor, which, by supplying a large amount of gasoline, floods the spark plug. In addition, plaque may also indicate a change in the geometry of such components of the chainsaw as the piston and cylinder.
Thorough check
If a preliminary assessment of the condition of the coil does not produce results, a thorough diagnosis must be carried out.
Experts recommend taking a multimeter and checking the resistance level of the coil. Study the optimal performance of your model (this information is in the instructions for the chainsaw). Please note that sometimes the “ringing” ends with the indication “open circuit”; there is no need to panic, since many saws use semiconductor parts. A positive test result indicates a malfunction. Checking the serviceability of the electrical circuit. The cable is placed against the gap between the cylinder and the coil. In the absence of a breakdown spark, we can conclude that the high-voltage cable is faulty or the internal insulation is damaged. Checking for the presence of a spark (a special device is also used). The testing device is placed between the coil terminal and the spark plug bulb (this place is called the open circuit)
Pay attention to the data displayed on the meter screen, compare it with the optimal values for your chainsaw. Not everyone can do this testing method at home, since special equipment is expensive. Performing homemade ignition
This test involves the use of a candle. It is taken out and leaned against the cylinder body, while simultaneously starting the starter. Watch for the spark. The method is not the most reliable due to the non-standard speed of rotation of the flywheel (since the position of the candle is unnatural), but many craftsmen actively use it.
In field conditions, when the above methods for checking ignition are not available, this method is used.
For the method you will need a nail without a hat, which is placed close to the cylinder - 7 millimeters from it
Be careful not to damage the part. Pull the starter and watch for spark. If it appears and is bright, there is no malfunction.
The method is useful if there are no electronic components. In addition, you will have to adhere to these rules.
- Do not unscrew the spark plug completely so as not to speed up the rotation of the flywheel. This will negatively affect engine performance.
- The spark plug is placed so that the distance between it and the cylinder is no less than that recommended taking into account the compression model of the spark plug and the dielectric properties of the fuel mixture used (on average it is placed at a distance of 7 millimeters).
Owner reviews
Yakov Sinelnikov, 56 years old, Khabarovsk
“I bought an old chainsaw. Well, like an old one - it lay in my grandfather’s garage for three years. I tried to start it - nothing happened. I looked at the candle, it didn’t seem to be filling, it was dry. I unscrewed it and checked - there was no spark. I had to disassemble and set the gap. Instead of a dipstick, I cut a homemade one from a plastic bottle, inserted it and adjusted it. The chainsaw works great - the main thing is to set the gap and assemble it correctly. By the way, I also changed the spark plug.”
Yaroslav Stembitsky, 37 years old, Zhytomyr region
“After winter, the chainsaw did not start. I pulled the starter for a long time - my hand was tired, but it wouldn’t start. Then I decided to unscrew the spark plug and check for a spark - there was no sound, there was nothing. I took off the protective cover and looked - the gap is normal. I collected everything, but it won’t start again. I spent the day poking around until I decided to check the contact on the spark plug. It turned out that the spring had popped out. Why and when - I can’t imagine.”
Verification Recommendations
Many novice car enthusiasts are interested in learning how to remove the ignition coil, because the procedure must be carried out with the device removed. It is worth knowing about the main types of problems that arise during the operation of this module.
Basic faults
It is quite easy to find the device in old cars, because it was installed within the driver’s field of vision. If you start your search with the central conductor of the ignition distributor, then there will be no problems. You can also quickly find individual coils, most often located above the candles.
Among the main signs of malfunction of this module, the following should be noted:
- There is no spark and the engine cannot start.
- The power plant throttles during operation, and this is especially noticeable at high humidity.
- During computer diagnostics, misfires were detected in some cylinders.
- There are drops in traction when you press the accelerator pedal.
- The power plant struggles and primarily at low air temperatures.
- The device is experiencing serious overheating.
- The conductors suitable for the device have changed color.
Often, vehicle owners are partly to blame for problems with this element. Wanting to save money, many decide to use non-standard spare parts. If we talk about the most common malfunctions, we can note:
- Reversing the battery polarity.
- Frequent coil overheating.
- Electrical wiring shorted.
- Mechanical damage to the device.
- Sudden temperature fluctuations.
Carrying out diagnostics
It is also necessary to familiarize yourself with the information on how to test the ignition coil with a multimeter, because this information will be useful to all owners of mechanisms equipped with gasoline power plants. This measuring device allows you to monitor voltage and resistance. The switch of the measuring device must be set to the “200 Ohm” position and, applying probes to the “+” and “K” contacts, measure the resistance value of the first winding of the coil.
Most often, difficulties arise when diagnosing dual coils, since the primary winding in them is connected to the connector. To check it, you can use a multimeter only if the user is familiar with the coil circuit. Diagnostics of the secondary winding is carried out between two high-voltage conductors.
Read more: Which GPS tracker is better?
Without a certain set of knowledge in the field of radio electronics, it will be quite difficult to determine the malfunction of individual coils, since it is necessary to assemble an electrical circuit. However, there is one way that always works. If the power plant is tripping, then you should start sequentially disconnecting the coil terminals while the engine is running.
If after this the engine starts to double, then there is no spark in this cylinder. To solve this problem, you can carry out computer diagnostics. But even if during the test the cylinder number without a spark is indicated, this does not allow us to speak unambiguously about the coil’s malfunction. Knowing how to check the resistance of the ignition coil with a multimeter, you can quickly determine the source of the problem and replace the failed element. Many car enthusiasts replace branded coils on foreign cars with devices from VAZ, since they are much cheaper.
Home page » How to Check the Coil on a Chainsaw with a Multimeter
Ignition faults
Most often, we think about repairs after the chainsaw stops starting, or visual signs of serious damage appear.
Signs of ignition malfunction:
- The chainsaw starts, but works unevenly (troits), often sneezes and shoots;
- The power of the chainsaw has noticeably dropped;
- When you sharply press the accelerator trigger, failures in engine operation are observed;
- The chainsaw does not start well when cold, it stalls violently until it warms up;
- Fuel consumption has increased significantly;
If such flaws appear in the operation of your chainsaw, then it’s time to diagnose, adjust, and possibly repair the ignition system.
Fault location determination:
First of all, it is necessary to inspect the spark plug; if a lot of carbon deposits have accumulated on it, then the cause of the malfunction is most likely related to the operation of the carburetor, piston group or fuel quality. If the spark plug visually appears to be in good working order, does not spark and is dry, make sure there is a spark.
- Unscrew the spark plug, put the ignition cable on it;
- Using insulated pliers, press the spark plug threads to the motor housing;
- Pull the starter handle sharply towards you and make sure there is a spark;
If there is no spark, replace the spark plug with a new one and test again. After making sure there is a spark, start the engine. But what to do if there is no spark even on a working spark plug? Let's continue the search:
We test the electrical cable for breaks and insufficient contact with the spark plug. We check the serviceability of the spring in the cap of the candle holder and the presence of contact with the armored cable;
To check the serviceability of electrical wiring, it is best to use a tester.
You can set the correct gap using a feeler gauge; they are not in short supply and are available for a small fee.
Diagnosing a fault with a multimeter
The malfunction of the ignition coil can also be determined using the so-called hardware method. However, for this you must have a multimeter with which diagnostics are carried out.
Step-by-step ignition diagnostics with a multimeter:
- We set the multimeter to a position where the arrow is at the 200 ohm mark.
- We study the instructions for the chainsaw. We find out the optimal resistance for the winding of the coil installed on our model (in most modern chainsaws this indicator ranges from 3-5 Ohms);
- We connect a multimeter to the primary winding of the coil and measure the resistance, if it is normal, we continue testing;
- We connect the multimeter to the secondary winding of the coil, compare the readings obtained with those indicated in the instruction manual;
- We connect the multimeter to the hole in the coil into which the wires are inserted. If the device produces normal readings, we come to the conclusion that the coil is working properly. If the measurement results are far from optimal, you will have to replace the assembly (coil) with a new one;
Video review of fault determination using a multimeter
Ignition adjustment
As we have already noted, you can adjust the ignition system both in the workshop and at home. To do this, you will need ordinary wrenches, a screwdriver and a 0.4 mm feeler gauge (you can make a feeler gauge yourself from scrap materials - regular copier paper, a plastic bottle, etc.).
Step-by-step adjustment of the chainsaw ignition:
- We diagnose the malfunction;
- Remove the protective cover;
- We remove the module with a candle holder and an electrical cable. We carry out a visual inspection of them and, if necessary, replace them with a new one;
- We install the ignition module, but do not tighten the fastening screws all the way;
- We determine the area with the magnet on the flywheel;
- We set the gap properly, in accordance with the parameters specified in the instruction manual;
- We tighten the module fastening screws until they stop, check the settings with a feeler gauge, and, if necessary, re-adjust;
- We install the protective cover and check for the presence of a spark on the spark plug;
- We screw in the spark plug and start the chainsaw;
Important: when repairing the ignition of a chainsaw, special attention should be paid to setting the correct gap between the module and the flywheel. You should also check whether the counterweight flywheel is catching on the module. If this happens, you may have a failed bearing or play on the shaft.
If this happens, you may have a failed bearing or play on the shaft.
You should also check whether the counterweight flywheel is catching on the module. If this happens, you may have a failed bearing or play in the shaft.
Starter: device, spring installation
The starter in the design of the chainsaw is designed to start. The sooner the problem associated with it can be identified and eliminated, the longer the service life of other parts will be.
The starter works as follows: in the saw body there is a groove into which a handle with a cord is attached. If you lift the handle sharply, the cord will also pull, and the drum will catch. As a result, the drum with spokes located on the shaft begins to unwind. At the same time, due to the rotation of the crankshaft, the fuel mixture is compressed. If the handle goes down, the shaft stops.
If you increase the power of the saw, the amount of fuel mixture increases. Therefore, more pulls of the starter handle are required to start the engine. In order to speed up the return of the drum, a special steel return spring is installed in production. In addition to this, other methods are used:
- Installation of a damper for preliminary enrichment of the mixture;
- Installation of an automatic decompression valve;
- To pump fuel before starting, install a primer.
Using these methods helps the engine start faster. This is especially felt when starting a cold engine and in the cold season.
Magneto. Design and concept of work
Purpose of the ignition coil. Conversion of rotational energy into a high-voltage discharge and the formation of a spark that ignites the fuel mixture. In an internal combustion engine, this part is called a magnet because it generates alternating current from the rotation of a permanent magnetic rotor or valve.
The magnet is structurally composed of two windings: high and low voltage. The capacitor with the switch contacts is connected in parallel with the last
Whereas the high voltage winding terminals are connected to the spark plug and housing. Both are wound on a core, between the poles of which there is a rotating magnet, longitudinally magnetized
Structural components
All engines, be it a car or another instrument using an internal combustion engine, have similar operating principles.
No exception, there are such famous chainsaws that are happily used by consumers such as Goodluck, STIHL or Husqvarna.
The drive in them is the familiar internal combustion engine, respectively the fuel tank, the engine and the working element that directly performs the work, as well as other attachments that help with control.
Sometimes during operation some problems may arise with this fairly reliable tool like a chainsaw.
Chainsaw Gap Between Coil And Flywheel
Chainsaw gap between the coil and the flywheel
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Ignition coil (magneto). Checking serviceability and setting the gap.
We often encounter situations where tool users come with a faulty ignition. Often, although they turn out to be faulty, often the ignition coil has nothing to do with the breakdown of the tool. The steps to check the serviceability of the ignition coil are described below.
Initial checks of the ignition system.
In advance, without performing a high-quality installation of how to test the ignition module, check the serviceability of the following parts of the circuit:
- candles are not a switch
- condition of the spark plug cap: must be tightly attached to the spark plug, the high-voltage wire is aggressively fixed, does not fly out of the cap or coil, the material of the cap does not contain cracks
- the high-voltage wire is not damaged along its entire length, the contacts of the wires are tight and there are no signs of corrosion
- visually assess the absence of cracks and visible flaws on the reel body
- remove contamination of conductive parts and components
- change the gas station if you can: you will like the gas bad
The meaning of these actions lies in the fact that in order to exclude from the list of possible defects what remains for our client to do are the circuit elements, not counting the coil. If our client remains ok, we move on.
Why do you need a good spark? A little physics of the process.
The quality of the spark determines its ability to ignite a properly formed air-fuel mixture within operating conditions. The initial ignition of the mixture is carried out in a spark (also called a breakdown cord from an electronic current pulse generated by the ignition coil). Here, there is actually an instantaneous heating of the molecules of gasoline and oxygen, for which reason they enter into a chemical combustion reaction. Then, like oil, it spreads completely over the volume of the consistency at a usual speed of 30-40 m/s, forming a combustion front of a certain shape. The method of existence of a spark without ignition occurs in 1-2ms.