Basics of tinsmithing. Works with wire and tin

When working with tin, two main tools are used. Metal shears and sheet bending machine.

Of course, when making a gutter for the roof of a barn, you can use the old-fashioned method - tap a galvanized sheet with a mallet on the edge of a workbench, or using a metal corner.

Examples of such work can be seen on roofing in the private sector. However, the quality of the product leaves much to be desired, and the metal is damaged at the point of impact.

In addition, artisanal bending of metal is suitable only for simple structures. If the bending profile has several multidirectional edges, you cannot do without a professional tool.

For example, the correct ridge for a roof “on the knee” cannot be bent, and its appearance will always remind you of the owner’s negligence.

Buying an industrial sheet bending machine is an unforgivable luxury. The craftsman is afraid of the work - we will tell you how to make such a useful device in a private household with your own hands.

To understand the process, consider the types of sheet bending machines:

Roller

The second name is three-roll. The machine is used to create smooth bent surfaces - large-diameter pipes, semicircular drains and other structures without sharp corners. It works on the principle of a rolling machine. The sheet is profiled between two support rollers and one thrust roller, the movement of which sets the bending radius of the workpiece.

Press brake

The workpiece is placed between two punches (templates), under great pressure they close, giving the required shape to the sheet of metal. Typically used for working with thick workpieces. Useless for household use.

The principle of operation of the design is that the workpiece is clamped with a clamping ruler, and a movable traverse bends the edge to the desired angle. Perhaps the most popular type of sheet bending machine.

There are both industrial stationary and manual tabletop devices. In fact, it has no restrictions on the bend angle - from 0 to 180 degrees. The width of the processed sheet is determined by the length of the traverse.

This is the only design flaw. It will be problematic to bend a single rolled strip several meters long at home. But you can quickly make a composite structure of any length with bends for merging the ends.

If you are interested in the question of how to make a galvanized pipe with your own hands, then you want to save on construction. Indeed, making homemade tin structures is a smart alternative to factory-made gutters, chimneys and ventilation hoods. This article will tell you how to practically do the work.

Do-it-yourself tinsmithing - Metalworker's Guide

When working with tin, two main tools are used. Metal shears and sheet bending machine.

Of course, when making a gutter for the roof of a barn, you can use the old-fashioned method - tap a galvanized sheet with a mallet on the edge of a workbench, or using a metal corner.

Examples of such work can be seen on roofing in the private sector. However, the quality of the product leaves much to be desired, and the metal is damaged at the point of impact.

In addition, artisanal bending of metal is suitable only for simple structures. If the bending profile has several multidirectional edges, you cannot do without a professional tool.

For example, the correct ridge for a roof “on the knee” cannot be bent, and its appearance will always remind you of the owner’s negligence.

Roller

The second name is three-roll.

The machine is used to create smooth bent surfaces - large-diameter pipes, semicircular drains and other structures without sharp corners.

It works on the principle of a rolling machine. The sheet is profiled between two support rollers and one thrust roller, the movement of which sets the bending radius of the workpiece.

Press brake

Traverse mechanism

There are both industrial stationary machines and manual tabletop devices. In fact, it has no restrictions on the bend angle - from 0 to 180 degrees. The width of the processed sheet is determined by the length of the traverse.

Popular: The sharpening angle of a knife is its most important characteristic

With traverse structures, a bending knife is often used, which is included in the delivery package.

Roller-type end knives are designed for high-quality alignment of the edge of the workpiece.

Roller bending machine

It would be more correct to call it a manual end bender. Although, using a roller mechanism, you can bend workpieces far from the edge. The process is simply too inconvenient. Mainly used as an auxiliary device.

How to make a homemade sheet bender

The simplest design is to clamp the edge of the sheet between a steel corner and a rule (or two corners) using a clamp, and bend the workpiece by hand. This is how the simplest roofing elements are usually created.

However, it is quite possible to make a traverse sheet bending machine yourself. Precision markings and patience are required.

The design and operating principle are visible in the drawings.

Let's look at the assembly step by step.

To make a traverse sheet bender we will need:

4 meters of steel angle, side – 50 mm;
Ball joint for car, with mounting bracket;
The stabilizer rod is from the same, with a diameter of 10 mm;
Grinder, drill, electric welding.

We cut the corner with a grinder into 1 meter pieces.

If there is a need to work with metal of a larger width, the length of the corners increases. At least 100 mm must be added to the width of the working surface. Using an angle grinder, we cut out two eyes from the ball joint bracket. These will be the working loops of the movable traverse.

From the stabilizer strut we make an axis on which the hinges will rest.

We carefully measure and mark a sample on the corner for attaching the axle.

We grind the flats strictly to size to install the axle shafts. This must be done as accurately as possible so as not to waste time and material on subsequent adjustments.

We apply the markings exactly in the center of the axis, and combine it with the top of the corner - the traverse. This point is important. because if the alignment is incorrect, the quality of the workpiece bending on the machine will deteriorate, or the sheet bender will be unsuitable for work.

Popular: Let's look at several ways to sharpen a ceramic knife at home

We weld the axle shafts to the samples, maintaining parallelism to the top of the angle. To increase accuracy, you should use a jig when welding. For example, a vice and a clamp. The length of the protruding part of the axis does not exceed 1 cm.

The result should be a structure with perfect alignment at the ends.

Place the corners next to each other.

We mark the sample on the second corner strictly opposite the axes of the first corner.

The angles relative to each other should be located as follows:

We fold both traverses, keeping them flat, and fix them for welding. We weld the loops onto the second corner on both sides.

The corners should rotate freely relative to each other on their hinges. When turning 180 degrees there should be no snags or wedging. In this case, the gap between the traverses should be minimal.

The clamping angle will be positioned as follows:

Having previously marked, we use a grinder to cut out a sample around the axis on the clamping angle.

The lower side of the clamping angle is ground at an angle of 45 degrees.

Opposite the axes, mark and drill holes for 10 mm bolts. We weld the bolts with the threads up to the lower fixed cross-beam.

We also make a hole in the center of the traverse, but do not weld the bolt. This will be a removable element, so we weld the short axle to it in a T-shape.

Bolts are needed to press the workpiece to the crossbeam when bending. The central bolt is used when the workpiece has a width that is half that of the traverse. When working with wide workpieces, the bolt is removed.

From a 15-20 mm circle we cut two handles 30 cm long. A thinner rod will not work, since the force on the handles can be significant, and you can simply bend them.

We weld the handles from the bottom of the turning angle (traverse).

Next, we make a bed for the sheet bending machine. We weld the fourth corner to the lower fixed cross-beam on both sides for strength. We drill holes in the frame. The entire structure must be fixed on a stable surface, for example, on a steel workbench.

We screw the sheet bender to the workbench and check the free movement of the movable traverse.

The design allows you to work with iron sheets up to 2 mm thick and 92 cm wide. Bend angles can be selected to any size; the workpiece can be bent either in one direction or in steps. When working with a thick workpiece, the handle is extended with a metal pipe; the strength of the angle is always sufficient.

Working with standard galvanized sheeting is not difficult; the device bends it with the ease of cardboard.

Additional accessories

For ease of operation, the clamping angle can be spring-loaded, and wing nuts can be used instead of conventional nuts. It is convenient to work with such a device with a roller knife, using the upper clamp as a guide.

Temporary structure according to a simplified scheme

The considered version of the sheet bender is made for regular work, and is actually a stationary device. If you urgently need to do one-time work on making tin products, you can create a simpler device.

For production you will need:

Three corners 40-50 mm, width according to your needs;
A pair of door hinges;
Two powerful clamps;
Two rods (circles) as handles.

The two corners are fastened together with loops as tightly as possible.

The third, shorter corner, using clamps, presses the workpiece and the lower crossbeam to the workbench. This machine is not very convenient, but this is compensated by its ease of manufacture. The manufacturing option is up to you to choose.

instructions for making a homemade sheet bender

An interesting article on the topic of how to assemble a pipe bender with your own hands. Available diagrams and drawings, as well as a video and a detailed description of the assembly.

Tin pipe - making it yourself in 3 steps

Despite the many different tin blanks that are sold in construction supermarkets, sometimes when installing drains, ventilation or other similar engineering systems, it becomes necessary to install parts of a non-standard configuration or size. That’s why many home craftsmen are interested in how to make a pipe from tin with their own hands.

Material characteristics

Galvanized structures are made of tin. The material is sheet rolled steel with a thickness of 0.1 - 0.7 mm.

Products of complex shapes are formed from soft material

The production of sheets takes place on rolling machines, but the products obtained in this way require additional protection. Therefore, it is coated with a material that is resistant to corrosion. Ultimately, consumers receive a steel sheet with a width of 512-1000 mm, which has a micron coating of chromium, tin or zinc.

The product is characterized by plasticity, which allows the sheet metal to be processed manually. Moreover, if stiffening ribs are rolled onto the material, it is not inferior in strength to its steel counterparts. For these reasons, tinplate is used in the manufacture of products with complex shapes.

Required Tools

The soft and plastic material is easy to bend, so galvanized pipes are made using simple tools:

Hand scissors for metal. With this tool you can effortlessly cut sheet metal, the maximum thickness of which is only 0.7 mm.
Hammer with a soft striker. This role can be played by a wooden hammer or a metal tool with a rubber pad on the striking part.

To work you will need a wooden hammer

Pliers .
Despite its softness, it is impossible to bend thin metal with your hands.

In addition to tools, you will need equipment:

A workbench used to mark and cut workpieces.
A calibrating element in the form of a steel pipe with a diameter of 100 mm or an angle with sides measuring 75 mm.

Important! The calibrating elements should be rigidly fixed, since they are used to rivet the joining seam of future gutters or ducts.

In the process of marking workpieces, you cannot do without measuring tools - a metal ruler, tape measure, square or marker (a sharpened steel rod with a hardened end).

Features of construction material

Before starting work, we should get acquainted with our construction material - tin. This material is a rental product. That is, in essence, tin is trivial sheet steel, rolled on the rollers of a rolling mill to a thickness of 0.1-0.7 millimeters.

However, in the technology of tin manufacturing there was a place not only for rolling operations. After all, the finished product must also be protected from corrosion. Therefore, after rolling, the steel is coated with a layer of corrosion-resistant material.

As a result, the consumer receives a sheet of steel with a width of 512 to 1000 millimeters, coated with a micron layer of chromium, tin or zinc. This product is very flexible - tin can even be processed by hand. Moreover, when rolling stiffeners, the strength of tin products is not inferior to their steel counterparts. Therefore, tin is used in the process of manufacturing products of complex shapes.

Tools and accessories for making pipes from tin

Soft and pliable sheet metal does not require much effort applied to the sheet blank.

Therefore, in the production of tin products, the following tools are most often used:

Hand scissors for metal. With this tool you can easily cut sheet metal. After all, the maximum thickness of the tin is only 0.7 millimeters.
Hammer with a soft striker. This can be a mallet - a completely wooden hammer, or a steel tool with a rubber lining on the striker.

Hammers with metal strikers are not used in this case. They can deform a thin sheet of tin, ruining the entire work.

Pliers. Indeed, despite the softness of the thin metal, a tin pipe does not bend with your own hands.

In addition, to perform some of the operations you will need a workbench, which will be used both in the process of marking and in the process of cutting the workpiece, as well as a calibrating element - a steel pipe with a diameter of 100 millimeters or an angle with edges of 75 millimeters.

Moreover, both the pipe and the corner must be rigidly fixed, because on their surfaces we will rivet the joining seam of the pipe or box.

In addition, in the process of marking the workpiece, we will need measuring tools - a metal ruler, tape measure, square and marker, which is a sharpened steel rod hardened at the end.

Making galvanized pipes with your own hands

The production of casings and cylinders from galvanized steel includes three stages:

Preparatory. It starts with marking and ends with cutting out the finished “pattern”.
Molding. At this time, the formation of a given profile of the chimney or ventilation duct occurs.
Final. At this stage, the opposite edges of the workpiece are connected to each other.

Now let’s look in detail at the step-by-step production of galvanized pipes by hand.

Cutting out the workpiece

Tin can be easily cut with scissors

Take a sheet of galvanized sheet and make a sketch of the product. Next proceed as follows:

Cut out the resulting measured piece of sheet on which you have drawn the outline of the product you need.
Roll out a galvanized sheet on a flat area of the workbench. Measure the length of the box from the top edge and make a mark there.
Take a square and draw a line from the length mark of the product perpendicular to the side edge of the sheet.
Mark on the upper edge of the workpiece and the marked length line of the product the size of the perimeter of the ventilation duct or the circumference of the chimney cylinder.

Note! The actual circumference or perimeter must be increased by 15 mm to form joining edges.

Connect the resulting marks at the top and bottom.
Cut a “pattern” from the sheet by making a side and longitudinal cut.

On a note! To measure the circumference of a galvanized chimney pipe, use a tape measure or calculate it by the diameter of the product using a school geometric formula. To determine the perimeter, add up all sides of the box.

Formation of a profile

It is better to bend sheets with pliers

Now we begin to form the profile of the future structure.

Mark a fold line along the workpiece (0.5 cm on one side, 0.5 cm twice on the other).
Bend the folds at an angle of 90˚ to the plane of the workpiece, which was previously placed along the steel angle (its edge should coincide with the bend line of the fold).
Deform the sheet using a hammer until it comes into contact with the second plane of the angle.

Important! The shape of the sheet should be changed gradually, slowly moving along the fold line. Do the job using pliers first.

Make an L-shaped bend on a fold measuring 1 cm along a line of 0.5 cm parallel to the plane of the workpiece.
Now start shaping the chimney body. Place the workpiece on the calibrating plane and tap the galvanized steel with a hammer until you get the profile of the desired shape. The folds should meet at the end.

Processing the butt seam

To crimp the butt seam, align the vertical folds. Fold the horizontal part of the L-shaped fold down so that it wraps around the vertical fold of the other edge of the structure. Bend the protruding “sandwich”, pressing it to the plane of the chimney.

The question of how to make a galvanized pipe yourself has been resolved. We wish you success!

How to make a pipe from tin: instructions

Articles

With the use of new technologies in construction, the need to use tin pipes is gradually disappearing, but the question of how to make a pipe from tin is of interest to people who like to do everything in the house with their own hands.

Which tin should you choose?

How to make a pipe out of tin? What kind of tin is best suited for this type of work?

Tin pipe

Thin tin is an excellent material for homemade bathhouses and smokehouses. Tin is a thin sheet of steel that is susceptible to corrosion. To make beautiful drainpipes, as well as weather vanes, canopies over chimney pipes, do-it-yourself covers over chimneys, or original filigree lace, galvanized roofing iron is used.

Tip: tin pipes can also be used as samovars; they increase draft well and also remove smoke.

Sheet metal

What tools are needed?

Before you start making a tin pipe with your own hands, you need to take care of the tools and materials that you will need.

Making tin pipes with your own hands involves using the following:

sheet of thin galvanized iron roofing (thickness 0.5-0.7 mm);
scissors for cutting metal;
metal strip;
wooden hammer (mallet);
simple hammer;
pliers.

Kiyanka

Metal cutting scissors

Advice: in order for a tin pipe to turn out beautiful and even, it is necessary to take a sheet of iron with a smooth and even surface, and also so that the corners are straight, and not torn or unevenly cut.

Instructions for making a tin pipe

How to make a pipe out of tin? Where to begin?

Making pipes from tin begins with drawing up a drawing. Draw an unfolded pattern of the future pipe on an iron sheet.

Tip: the pipe pattern can be drawn with chalk or any sharp object.

Pattern drawing

When marking a pattern, the following points must be taken into account:

the width of the workpiece should be equal to the diameter of the pipe plus an additional one and a half centimeters;
the length of the workpiece is slightly longer than the straight section of the pipe.

Scheme of blank for pipe seam

Using metal scissors, cut off the drawn pipe blank.
Place the workpiece on the edge of the workbench.
Along the length of the iron sheet, draw a fold line on one side; it should be half a centimeter.
Align the line drawn with the edge of the corner on the layout.
Using a mallet, bend the edge of the sheet of iron down.
Turn the sheet over and, with light blows of a mallet, bend the edge to the sheet.
Turn the workpiece over and on the other side bend the edge 1 centimeter wide, but in the other direction.
Fold the edge again, so in profile this bend will look like the letter L.
Insert the workpiece into the mandrel, carefully bend the edges of the pipe towards each other.

Tip: you can use a mandrel - this is a sector or template of a pipe of the required diameter, but you can do without it.

Connect the edges into a lock so that the smaller edge hooks onto the larger edge.
Seal the edge using pliers.
Using a hammer and an iron bar, lay the edge on the sheet and tap it well.

Bend the fold on the pipe

The edges of a tin pipe can also be fastened using steel, aluminum or tin rivets.

Drill holes for the rivets at a distance of three centimeters.
Bend the edges at right angles towards each other.
Bend the sheet of tin blank in the opposite direction so that the edges are located on the outside of the pipe.
secure the edges with rivets.

Tip: a DIY tin pipe fastened in this way is not very convenient to use. The result is a not very attractive external seam, which has to be hidden when installing the pipe.

Tin rivets

Features of working with tin

To give the sheet metal material the required pipe shape, you need to bend it using pliers or a hammer around an object of the appropriate cylindrical shape.
You can make your own tin pipes using a metal or wooden cylinder.

Advice: the bend of the sheet metal should be even along its entire length; this can be achieved by lightly tapping with a hammer, and the blows should be as close to each other as possible.

Making tin pipes is impossible without using metal shears. It will be much easier to work with such a tool if you attach a leather loop to its handle. The metal is cut with one hand, putting a leather loop on the fingers.
The edge of a sheet of iron after cutting with scissors can be cleaned with a plow made from a small old piece of hacksaw blade.
A drainpipe made of tin, which is already ready for installation, in some cases needs to be cut (for example, when it is necessary to make a curved edge of the pipe for drainage). To do this, it will be convenient to cut the pipe with a knife, which is intended for opening canned food.

Tin drain pipe

Advice: in order for the pipe to be cut well with a knife, you first need to cut it with a hacksaw, and only then use the knife.

Tin pipe cutting process

When working with tin, you sometimes have to use a file. Very often it becomes clogged with metal filings and quickly fails. In order to clean it, you can use a copper spatula or a soft metal tube, while flattening its end.

It is not very difficult to make tin pipes with your own hands, the main thing is to follow these recommendations and be extremely careful, as you can get injured by the sharp edges of the tin sheet cut off.

Video: making pipes

August 9, 2016 Specialization: professional in the field of construction and repair (full cycle of finishing work, both internal and external, from sewerage to electrical and finishing work), installation of window structures.
Hobbies: see the column “SPECIALIZATION AND SKILLS” Making a pipe from tin with your own hands is an excellent alternative to buying an expensive drain or ventilation casing. In practice, the savings turn out to be colossal, and if you consider that having mastered the technology, you can literally “stamp” pipes of any (okay, almost any) diameter - then it’s definitely worth reading my tips and at least trying to implement them in practice!

Below I will talk about what we need to form the pipe, and also describe the algorithm by which I have been successfully bending tin products for five years.

What do we need to work?

Tough as it is

So, let's start our review of the technology with an analysis of the material. We will bend a pipe from tin:

The basis of the tin sheet is steel that has been processed in a rolling mill. As a rule, sheets from 0.1 to 0.7 mm are found on sale - the thicker, the higher the price.

To protect against corrosion, the steel base of the tin blank is coated with a material that prevents oxidation of the metal. Most often, compounds of chromium, tin and zinc are used for this.
At the final stage, the product is cut in accordance with standard sizes. Most often, construction stores sell tin blanks with a width of 512 mm to 2 m, but if necessary, you can find or order wider parts.

This metal has obvious advantages:

The small thickness ensures a reduction in the weight of tin products.
Surface treatment quite effectively protects the steel base from corrosion upon contact with environmental factors.
Thin metal is cut well, and very powerful tools are not required for processing - hand scissors are quite sufficient.
Rolling and heat treatment of blanks during the production of sheet metal provide them with high ductility. Thanks to this, sheets and strips bend perfectly along a minimum radius without the risk of cracking.

The downside of tin is its low bending strength, therefore, when manufacturing open parts, stiffeners must be added to their design. However, this does not concern our situation: the pipe itself holds its shape perfectly.

Tinsmith's tools

As I already noted, tin is a soft and plastic material that is processed quite simply. But this simplicity also has a drawback: a metal tool not only leaves marks on the surface of the sheet metal, but can also damage the protective layer upon impact, causing the development of corrosion.

That is why the following tools are used to work with tin and thin galvanized steel:

metal scissors. I use the most common, spring-loaded ones with not very long handles - with relatively little effort they cut 0.7 mm steel perfectly;

It is very important that the blades of the scissors are sharp, otherwise the edges of the workpieces will turn out uneven, and we will have to spend time and effort removing the “fringe”.

hammer with a rubber/rubber-coated striker. Why rubber is needed is already clear - to prevent metal from hitting metal;

mallet - in principle, performs the function of a hammer with a rubber attachment. Both tools are interchangeable, which does not prevent me from having both a mallet and a hammer at my disposal;

pliers (several pieces, different sizes). They are used for bending metal, since it is impossible to grasp the short edges of a sheet or strip with your fingers, despite all its plasticity;

calibrating blanks - steel pipes (I have two, with a diameter of 50 and 100 mm) and angles. Used as templates for bending round and rectangular parts, respectively;
measuring instruments - ruler, tape measure, level and compass;
Marker - A sharpened steel rod that is used to mark tin sheets. You can buy or sharpen a two-hundred nail.

a workbench is the most necessary thing. The workbench functions as a place for marking the cutting stand, a work table - in general, it is on it that we will perform all the work.

Of course, this set will only be enough for us to make several pipes - up to two or three dozen. If the work is large-scale, then you cannot do without at least a sheet bender - a device that allows you to bend large metal blanks evenly.

Do-it-yourself tinsmithing - Metals, equipment, instructions

Tinplate is a material that belongs to rolled products. This is a type of sheet steel. After rolling, the sheet is treated with anti-corrosion substances.

In order to make such a pipe you will need only 2-3 tools

For heating equipment, you can make tin pipes for the chimney yourself . This material is elastic, so it is processed manually. In addition, steel is characterized by rigidity and strength, so tin products of special strength are made from it.

Which tin to choose

Before making a pipe from tin, a suitable piece of steel is selected. For chimneys, thin sheet metal coated with a special compound is recommended.

The tin pipe removes smoke and increases draft.

Tin comes in black and white. The black type of material is thin sheet and cold rolled steel. Products are made from steel of various grades. The material is offered by manufacturers in sheets or rolls.

Tinplate is a material coated with tin on both sides, which is processed using electrolytic and hot tinning methods. This material is a low-carbon and thin sheet.

The processing method gives the steel rust resistance and ductility.

Production is accompanied by control of the composition of substances. The processing method and content influence the production of different grades of material.

The white type of sheet metal is treated to improve the surface's adhesion to varnish coatings.

Lacquered sheet metal is used. The varnishing process is used to protect surfaces from external factors.

Black and white type of material comes in the following types:

single-rolled sheet is a product of low-carbon steel that is processed by cold rolling to the desired thickness;
metal double-rolled after the first rolling procedure is subject to the second rolling and special lubricant, which reduces the thickness of the product.

The material is classified according to its degree of hardness and the amount of tin used.

Tin pipes have technically universal qualities.

What tools are needed?

Before you do tin work with your own hands, you should select a set of materials and tools. You will need equipment for tin work.

You will need a sheet of thin tin. To make the pipe even, a material with a smooth structure and clear corners is taken. Do not use sheets with torn edges.

Cutting the material does not require effort, but before starting work, it is worth preparing the following tinsmith tools:

Metal cutting scissors are used to cut the piece into blanks.
Use a mallet or rubber hammer that does not leave dents. The weight of the tool is selected to be heavy, but the impact force is controlled.
To make bends, use pliers or pliers.
Machines for sheet metal work are recommended. A workbench is suitable that allows you to evenly position the sheet and mark it.
For calibration, a tube with thick walls and an angle are used, which is mounted to the edge of the workbench. The corner is chosen to be massive, since the metal is bent on it. The pipe helps in making the longitudinal seam of the main line.
A thin steel rod is used as a marker. It is made independently. To do this, sharpen the nail.
A measuring tool is recommended. Tape measures and squares are suitable for this.

You will need a round piece to assemble the product. For this, we recommend a pipe with a cross-section of 90 mm and not too long.

Instructions for making a tin pipe for ventilation with a do-it-yourself hood

Making a pipe from a sheet of iron means performing a sequence of actions. The work consists of simple steps. First, preparation takes place, which consists of marking parts and cutting out blanks.

At the stage of forming the body of the structure, an element of circular cross-section is created. When connecting, it is necessary to secure the elements into one product.

Adapters for connecting sheet metal pipes

You can make markings and preparations in several stages:

The tin sheet is placed on the surface without joints. A floor covering or workbench is suitable for this.
A segment is marked from the top edge, which is equal in size to the future highway. The marking is carried out by a marking device. The manufacture of drainpipes also takes place.
A line is drawn through the mark. In this case, a square is used.
The width of the segment is marked from the line, which is equal to the cross-section of the pipe. 15 mm per joint is added to the obtained value.
The resulting markings are connected, and the workpiece is cut out.

When making markings, it is worth considering the dimensions of the product. Width is the diameter plus one and a half additional centimeters. The length of the workpiece must be greater than the straight section of the structure.

Next, tinsmithing work consists of forming a round profile of the structure.

Working with tin with your own hands is done as follows:

The folds are bent to the sheet surface at right angles. A line is first marked for them. A mallet is used for bending. The sheet is placed on the edge of the table with a descent to the desired length and a bend is made using a rubber hammer. The work is carried out along the entire length of the product.
A do-it-yourself tin pipe requires one more bend on the seam. In this case, marking is performed.
A round element is used to construct the pipe. On it there is a galvanized sheet, which is given a rounded shape. In this case, the bent ends of the pipe are connected.

Work technology

Step 1. Preparation

Instructions for making a pipe from tin begin with a description of the preparation of the workpiece:

On a workbench or other flat surface we roll out sheet metal, leveling it using mechanical action if necessary.
We measure the length and width of the pipe by marking the material with chalk, marker or marker. When marking, we take into account that the width of the workpiece should be equal to the circumference of the pipe + 1.5...1.6 cm for forming a seam.
We control the perpendicularity of the drawn lines using a square.

We take scissors and make first a side and then a longitudinal cut. You need to cut strictly along the lines, trying not to make large indents. If the cut line “walks”, problems may arise at the stage of seam formation.
Once again we level our workpiece. If necessary, tap the edges to remove waves and process them, removing burrs.

Step 2. Pipe Forming

Now we need to make a round pipe from the blank. And at the first stage we create a profile:

On one side of the part we draw a fold line at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge.
On the other side we draw the same line at a distance of 1 cm.

We place the workpiece on a steel corner and bend the folds perpendicular to the plane of the sheet. To bend, use a mallet, adjusting the metal with pliers if necessary.

I usually do this: first I grab the metal with pliers, forming a bend about 2-3 cm wide. After the direction of deformation has been set, I change the pliers to a mallet and continue working, using a steel template as a support.
When working according to a template, we do not apply excessive force, otherwise we risk damaging the material and “scraping off” part of the protective coating,
Next, we divide the bent fold 1 cm wide in half along the width and repeat the fold. Now we need to bend a strip 0.5 cm wide parallel to the main workpiece.

Now we form the pipe profile. We place the workpiece on the calibrating surface and tap it, first bending an arc, and then a full circle. The smoother it is, the better - there will be less fiddling around at the final stage of work.

Step 3. Processing the joint

Now we need to form a seam that will turn our workpiece into the actual pipe:

We combine the folds, bent perpendicular to the main part, pressing them tightly against each other.

We bend the horizontal part of the long fold so that it wraps around the combined parts.
We lay the resulting three-layer structure on a workbench and carefully tap it, compacting it thoroughly. At the same time, we make sure that there are no distortions that will negatively affect the strength of the structure.

We bend the seam from the folds assembled together towards the pipe wall. We put the product on the calibration blank and tap the joint again. The resulting connection holds perfectly without any fasteners due to the plasticity of the sheet metal.

When producing large-diameter pipes that experience significant loads, the width of the folds can be increased and the joint further strengthened with rivets.

Tin work DIY tin products

The joining of the edges of thin sheet metal is most often done in a lock - by clamping one edge to the other, but occasionally other methods are used, which may be needed more often in the work of a young master. These are the methods.

Connection methods

In thicker sheets, the butt joint is made with teeth (2). This is actually done not by tinsmiths, but by coppersmiths - craftsmen who make copper utensils, tanks, pipes, caps, etc. A butt joint can be made more durable by soldering a plate (3) on the inside.

This will be a butt with an overlay. A more durable connection is an overlap (4). One edge is overlapped with the other, the seam is soldered or fastened with rivets. But this connection already has a protruding edge, which is not always convenient.

You can bend the edges at one edge and at the other, hook them and compress them with blows of a mallet. This will already be a simple lock (5).

The most common connection method is a double lock (6). It's done like this.

One piece's edge is bent at a right angle, the second's edge is also bent, but in the other direction, and pressed against the piece, and then this edge is bent at a right angle in the opposite direction.

Both bent edges are connected to each other, bent towards the first edge, and the seam is pierced with a mallet. On the reverse side it will be smoother, which must be taken into account when connecting in this way.

How to make gutters and roofing elements from sheet metal with your own hands

The sequential progress of work is schematically depicted in the following figure:

Double lock (diagram)

All kinds of tin products are most often connected with a double lock.

Occasionally, tinsmiths use connections using rivets. However, this method is more often used when it is necessary to rivet a handle, eyelet, strip, etc. Occasionally, rivets are used to strengthen the seams into an overlay and a simple lock. They are usually riveted with small rivets, preferably with wide flat heads, using a cold method.

For rough work, tinsmiths prefer rivets rolled from a piece of tin. To make them, you need to have a piece of iron with holes of different diameters, or a riveter. A diamond-shaped piece of tin is rolled up into a pound using a hammer or pliers, inserted into a riveter, into a hole of a suitable diameter, and the head is riveted.

These rivets are soft, but, of course, do not have the neat appearance of solid rivets.

Tin rivet

Almost all work with thin metal is based on the plasticity of the metal, its ability to bend and flatten. But the master must skillfully use his tool, otherwise these same properties will be detrimental to the work. How and why will be seen later.

The main and very first job of the master is the ability to bend the fold, in other words, to bend the edge of the sheet. The work is simple, but also very responsible, since further processes depend on it.

It is necessary to bend the fold for a variety of needs: for seam connections, for edges, for inserting bottoms, and others. It is necessary to ensure that the metal only bends, but does not flatten in any way. If the metal is flattened in the bend, it will expand.

The edge of the fold will come out curved and the surface of the sheet will warp.

In rough work, where the fold is bent wide, this has almost no significance. But where greater precision and grace are required, it will be very noticeable. Let us explain with an example what we can achieve.

Suppose we want to make a tube out of tin and connect it with a double lock.

They bent the folds with an iron hammer, began to roll up the tube and connect the seam, but it turns out that the seam is very difficult to connect; the folds turned out to be bent due to riveting the metal with a hammer.

Riveted seam

Therefore, folds should always be bent with a wooden mallet on the sharp iron edge of a crowbar, iron strip or corner of a scraper.

The work happens in this order. First of all, draw a fold line with a thicknesser. The thicker the metal and the rougher the work, the wider the fold can be taken (10-20 mm, on thin sheet metal the fold is 3-5 mm). Place the sheet on the edge of the scraper (or devices replacing it) along the fold line, and with quick and precise blows with a mallet, beat off this line, first at the ends, and then along the entire length of the fold.

Rebate

Then they bend the edge of the fold at a right angle, place it with the outer side on the anvil and straighten it with the inner side with blows of the mallet.

Let's assume that you need to bend the fold of a tin cylinder.

Making a fold on a cylinder

It is clear that the diameter of the outer edge of the folded fold will be larger than the diameter of its inner circumference. Consequently, the metal must be riveted along the entire fold, stronger at the outer edge and weaker towards the cylinder.

The fold must be bent with an iron hammer. The cylinder is taken in the left hand, the width of the bend is marked from the inside with a thicknesser and applied to the edge of the support or crowbar at an obtuse angle, after which it is struck on the future fold with the toe of a hammer, beating the fold line and riveting the edge. Light blows of the hammer are directed so as to rivet the outer edge more strongly.

Having gone around the full circle, reduce the angle of inclination of the cylinder, placing it steeper towards the anvil, and continue working in the same order. It is repeated again and again, decreasing the angle of inclination to a straight line. With such gradual knocking out, the fold will be bent at a right angle, and it will not burst anywhere. The bent fold is placed on the slab and straightened with blows of a mallet.

To such a cylinder with a rebate, you can already attach the bottom with a double lock, only at the circle for the bottom you need to bend the rebate or solder the bottom with solder.

Rebate fold on mug

Just as the fold on a cylinder is bent, this is also done when the edge of a tin product needs to be strengthened and made thicker by rolling wire into it. The work is carried out in the same order, but with a mallet and without beating off the sharp edge of the fold. The bend should come out smooth, you need to make a flap on the metal, calculating the width of this flap based on the thickness of the wire that will fit there.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=90S6cMb7H50u0026list=PLL_d19CnB7lWHraCvrOIJby9noeJ9dqeT

Rolling up the edge

The width should be approximately three times the diameter of the wire, adding a little for the thickness of the metal. When the fold is bent at a right angle, it is bent back with a mallet, turning the cylinder on a round anvil. Then they place it on the stove, insert the wire and secure it with a few blows of the mallet on the lapel.

Using a mallet on a round anvil and a plate, the lapel is finally pressed and smoothed. Turning the product over with the edge up, straighten the rolled edge on top. If the lapel turns out to be not wide enough, it is now very easy to fix it by piercing it from above with a mallet and pulling the blow outward.

On products with straight edges, rolling the wire into the edge is, of course, even easier.

Among the techniques for processing thin metal, based on riveting and pulling out metal, a young master should definitely become familiar with hammering.

By hammering out a flat piece of metal, it is given a variety of convex shapes.

In this way, you can knock out the bottoms and covers of boilers, hoods and a variety of streamlined parts for model airplanes, skins for model ships, etc. Above we already had a similar job - this knocking out a bucket.

Tapping is a job that requires patience. You can't hit it once or twice with a hammer and get a good draw. It is necessary to slowly tap with a hammer, constantly moving the product, gradually increasing the depth of drawing and finally straightening and smoothing the surface of the product with light blows.

There are basically two ways to pull. The first method is when the metal is flattened on a convex anvil, starting from the middle to the edges. The middle will be thinnest, but the product will be convex. The work is carried out with an iron hammer. According to the second method, they are beaten out with a mallet or a hammer with a round end on a mandrel (matrix) having the appropriate shape.

Punching out on a mandrel

As an example, let’s take the beating out of the same bucket. On a wooden stick or thick board, you need to make several round notches of varying depths. They are cut with a semicircular chisel and then smoothed with blows of a round hammer.

A round piece of metal is placed over the first recess and hammered out with a hammer or round mallet until a properly rounded surface without wrinkles is obtained. The same technique is repeated in subsequent, deeper matrices. In conclusion, we will obtain a bucket according to the profile of the matrix.

With a different profile and a different cutting we could get a different shape.

Sometimes the young master will have to knock out longitudinal grooves on thin metal plates. The cross section of such a plate will be shaped, and the plate will acquire rigidity.

Plate with longitudinal recess

As in any other business, marking and cutting the material, starting work, is a very important operation on which further success depends. It is clear from this that this work requires special care and accuracy. The simplest job is to cut and make a simple open rectangular box with straight or radiating sides, with or without a toe.

Making a rectangular box

A rectangle of appropriate dimensions is cut out from a sheet of tin (a). When cutting, you need to take into account the bottom area and the height of the walls. Using a thicknesser, draw a line of folds. One corner is cut off if you need to make a sock in the box.

Turning the sheet over onto the board, use the toe of a hammer to cut off the bisectors of the corners at the corners approximately to the border of the future folds of the walls (b).

Turning the sheet over again, bend the sides (c) onto the edge of the anvil (piece of iron), but not completely. They are trimmed at the rectangular end of the anvil and bent with a mallet close to the wall (d).

The cut corner for the toe remains unbent; it is slightly flattened, making a groove out of it. The box is ready (d).

The work, as you can see, is not at all difficult, but it must be done carefully.

Cutting out and making cylindrical shapes will not present any particular difficulties.

For the cylinder, you need to cut out a rectangle with a height equal to the future pipe, and a length of 3.14 times the diameter of this pipe, with an increase for rolling the seam.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYckHlEbbTcu0026list=PLL_d19CnB7lWHraCvrOIJby9noeJ9dqeT

Cutting diagram for the seam of a cylinder or rectangular box

When making conical products (bucket, funnel and others), all working techniques will remain the same, only when cutting you will have to remember the geometry. All conical objects must be correctly depicted in the scan, and this is the most important thing.

Let's take the simplest cutting method. Let's try to make a conical bucket. First of all, you need to draw its middle section along the axis. It will appear in the form of a trapezoid; continue the sides of the trapezoid until they intersect.

The intersection point is the center from which two arcs are drawn - from the long base of the trapezoid and from the short one. You will get a ring, part of which will be used to make the surface of the conical bucket. The width of this ring is the height of the bucket.

You just need to remember to add more to roll up the top edge and fold the bottom.

Cutting a truncated cone

The length of the part of this ring we need is determined by the diameter of the bucket. Approximately three diameters with an increase for a double lock - this is what you need to take from the ring. Setting aside 3.14 times the diameter of the outer hole or bottom of the bucket along the upper or lower arc, draw a line along the radius.

The increases for the double lock are made parallel to these radial lines. This will result in cutting out the surface of the bucket. They also accurately draw any conical shape, be it a whole or a truncated cone: the height of the figure is plotted along the radius, and the length of the scan along the circumference.

P.V. Leontyev

Features of the material used

Before starting work, it is advisable to carefully familiarize yourself with the features of the material from which the pipe is supposed to be constructed. Tin is an ordinary sheet of steel with a thickness of 0.1 to 0.7 mm. It is formed by sequentially rolling the workpiece through the rollers of a rolling mill.

However, the processing does not end there. In order to protect the resulting sheet from corrosion, it must be coated with a layer of another substance that does not oxidize in air.

As a result, the finished product warehouse receives steel sheets, the width of which, according to GOST, can be 51.2-100 cm, coated with an ultra-thin layer of zinc, chromium or tin.

Note! The material turns out to be very plastic, which allows it to be processed at home. On the other hand, when arranging stiffeners, you can get a structure that is not inferior in strength to thicker steel.

Considering that the price of tin is also low, it is often used to manufacture many different parts of complex shapes.

Required Tools

Cutting and bending sheets of tin does not require much effort. However, it would be useful to arm yourself with special tools and devices, the list of which is given in the table.

Tool	Purpose
Metal scissors	Used to cut sheet metal into pieces of the required size. The maximum thickness of the material, as you know, is 0.7 mm, so it is enough to apply only a slight muscular effort.
Kiyanka	You can replace it with a rubber hammer, as well as a steel tool with rubber pads that do not leave dents on the tin during use.
Pliers	Used to make bends. Can be replaced with pliers.
Crafting table	For marking and cutting, it is necessary to place the sheet of tin on a flat surface. It is best to use a carpentry workbench, but cutting can also be done on a floor cleared of large debris.
Calibrating elements	Their role is played by a thick-walled steel pipe with a diameter of about 100 mm (or round wood) and a steel corner 75 mm wide. It is secured to the edge of the workbench or clamped in a carpenter's vice. The pipe will be needed to make a longitudinal pipe seam.
Marker	Used for marking sheet metal. It is a thin steel rod with a sharp end.
Measuring tool	This includes rulers, tape measures, squares and other similar devices.

Work process

Let's start making a pipe from tin with our own hands.

The whole process can be divided into several main stages:

Preparation. This includes marking the product and cutting out individual blanks from a piece of tin.
Molding. At this stage, the initial formation of a circular pipe occurs.
Compound. Here it is necessary to finally sew the parts into the finished product.

Let's look at each of them in more detail.

Step 1. Preparation

No complicated instructions are needed here, everything is very simple:

the sheet is placed on a flat area (workbench or floor);
a segment equal to the length of the future pipe is measured from the top edge (marks can be made with a marker or a special marker);
then a line is drawn through the mark using a square, perpendicular to the top edge of the sheet;
on the upper edge and the line drawn at the bottom, the width of the workpiece is measured, which is equal to the circumference of the pipe (and 15 mm must be added to this parameter to arrange the joint);
All marks are connected, after which the workpiece is cut along the resulting lines.

Advice! Knowing the diameter of the pipe, you can easily calculate the circumference (width of the workpiece) using the well-known formula L = π D, where π is 3.14, D is the diameter of the future part.

Step 2: Molding

After receiving the workpiece, it is necessary to form a round profile of the future pipe.

Here the work is done like this:

The line for the folds is marked. Its width is 0.5 cm on one side and 1 on the other. The folds are bent at an angle of 90 degrees to the plane of the sheet metal. To do this, you can use a steel angle and a mallet.

A sheet of tin is placed on the edge of the table with an offset to the desired length, then its edge is carefully bent with blows of a rubber hammer. At the end of the work, it should be in close contact with the bottom plane of the angle.

Work should be done evenly along the entire length of the workpiece. To make the procedure easier, you can use pliers.

Then another bend is made on the centimeter fold in the shape of the letter G. The upper part (its width should be 0.5 cm) must be made parallel to the sheet of tin. It is advisable to make markings for this bend in advance.

After finishing work with the folds, we move on to working on the pipe itself. For this purpose, a pre-stocked round part is used. Having placed a sheet of tin on it, use a mallet to give it a rounded shape. This should be done gradually along the entire length of the sheet until the folded edges meet.

Step 3. Docking

All that remains is to align the edges and secure the seam. To do this, the horizontal section of the larger fold is folded down, covering the opposite edge. Then the protruding seam is bent to the plane of the pipe using a mallet.

You can buy galvanized pipes freely, but the cost of such products can be quite high, so the desire to make a galvanized pipe with your own hands is dictated, first of all, by considerations of economy.

At the same time, the production of galvanized pipes does not require the use of special efforts, special expensive devices and tools and any professional knowledge, so any home craftsman who has a set of standard carpentry tools can cope with this.

Pipes made of galvanized metal are used to equip chimneys; they are popular due to their light weight and, accordingly, ease of installation. Galvanized chimneys do not require the construction of a foundation, and this significantly reduces the cost of chimney equipment.

Such pipes meet fire safety standards, withstanding temperatures up to 900°, so they can even be used for smoke removal from solid fuel heating boilers and furnaces.

Galvanized pipes are also used in home construction to equip drains. Such pipes are already quite affordable in cost, but the process can be made even cheaper by using hand-made products.

Work methods

The edges of the sheets can simply be soldered. It is clear that this will be the most fragile method, especially if the metal sheets are thin. This will be a butt connection (1). Such a connection can be used where strength is not required, but an inconspicuous connection is required. In thicker sheets, the butt joint is made with teeth (2). This is actually done not by tinsmiths, but by coppersmiths - craftsmen who make copper utensils, tanks, pipes, caps, etc. A butt joint can be made more durable by soldering a plate (3) on the inside. This will be a butt with an overlay. A more durable connection is an overlap (4). One edge is overlapped with the other, the seam is soldered or fastened with rivets. But this connection already has a protruding edge, which is not always convenient. You can bend the edges at one edge and at the other, hook them and compress them with blows of a mallet. This will already be a simple lock (5).

The most common connection method is a double lock (6). It's done like this. One piece's edge is bent at a right angle, the second's edge is also bent, but in the other direction, and pressed against the piece, and then this edge is bent at a right angle in the opposite direction. Both bent edges are connected to each other, bent towards the first edge, and the seam is pierced with a mallet. On the reverse side it will be smoother, which must be taken into account when connecting in this way.

What you need to make a galvanized pipe

At home, to make a galvanized pipe, you need a sheet of tin; the material does not require much effort due to its softness and ductility.

Tin plates are industrially made from thin sheet steel with a thickness of 0.1 to 0.7 mm on rolling machines, after which they are coated with an anti-corrosion protective layer of chrome, tin or zinc. Finally, the workpieces are cut to standard sizes, ranging from 512 mm to 2000 mm wide.

The strength of such products is in no way inferior to their steel counterparts, especially if the material has additional stiffening ribs, but at the same time it is very plastic and allows the installation of pipelines of complex shapes by hand. Anti-corrosion coating protects the pipe from the effects of the external environment.